Industrial attachment bengal hurricane group

©Daffodil International University
BENGAL HURRICANE DYEING & PRINTING (PVT.) LTD. Page 1 of 147
FACULTY OF ENGNIEERING
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
Daffodil International University
Industrial Attachment Report
on
Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing (Pvt) Ltd.
Submitted by
Name ID
Shourav Das 133-23-3633
Avijit Biswas 133-23-3649
Supervised by
Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-Haque Majumder
Pro-Vice Chancellor
A report submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of
Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering.
Summer-2017

Letter of Approval
August 16, 2017
To
The Head
Department of Textile Engineering
102 Sukrabad,Mirpur Road, Dhaka 1207
Subject: Approval of final year project report.
Dear Sir,
I am writing to let you know that this project report titled as “Effect of salt and soda ash
concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive Dyes.” has been
completed for final evaluation. The whole report is prepared based on proper investigation
and understanding though critical analysis of empirical data with required belongings. The
students were directly involved in their project activities and the report becomes vital to spark
off many valuable information for the readers.
Therefore, it will highly be appreciated if you kindly accept this project report and consider it
for final evaluation.
Yours Sincerely,
Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-Haque Majumder
Pro-Vice Chancellor

DECLARATION
We hereby declare that the work which is being presented in this thesis entitled, “Effect of
salt and soda ash concentration in dyeing of single jersey cotton fabric with Reactive
Dyes” is original work of us, has not been presented for a degree of any other university and
all the resource of materials uses for this thesis have been duly acknowledged.
_______________________ _________________
Shourav Das Date
_______________________ _________________
Avijit Biswas Date
This is to certify that the above declaration made by the candidates is correct to the best of
my knowledge.
_______________________ _________________
Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-Haque Majumder Date
Pro-Vice Chancellor
Supervisor

Acknowledgement
Above all, we praise the almighty God who gave us His enabling grace to successfully
complete this research work.
With sincerity, we extend my warm and deep appreciation and gratitude to our supervisor,
Prof. Dr. S. M. Mahbub-ul-Haque Majumder for his unreserved guidance and support to
come up with this research work. Being working with him, we have not only earned valuable
knowledge but were also inspired by his innovativeness which helped to enrich my
experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable. we
believe that this research could not be finished if he did not help me continuously.
We are thankful to Prof. Dr. Md. MahbubulHaque, Head of the Textile Engineering
Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University and Tanvir Ahmed
Chowdhury, Assistant Professor Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International
University for their kind help and advice.
We would also like to thank all who responded to our questionnaires and interviews, which
helped us in coming up with this research.
We are grateful to our all colleagues for their encouragement for this research work.
Finally, we express our sincere gratitude to our father, mother, brother and sister for their
continuous support, ideas and love during our studies.
-The Author

Contents
Serial
No.
Name of
Chapter
Section Topics Page
No.
1 Introduction
1.1
1.2
1.3
Location Map of BHDP
Project Profile
Organizational Structure of BHDP
009
012
016
2 Knitting
Section
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.5
2.6
2.7
2.8
2.9
2.10
2.11
2.12
2.13
2.14
2.15
2.16
2.17
2.18
2.19
2.20
2.21
Organogram Of Knitting Section
Layout of Knitting Section
Introduction
Classification of Knitting
Knitting Structure
Various Terms of Knitting
Classification of Knitting Section
Specification of Circular Knitting m/c
Raw Materials for Knitting
Process Flow of Circular Knitting m/c
Product Mix: Knit Fabric
Important Parts of Circular Knitting m/c
Production Parameter
Minimum Requirement of Production
Production Calculation
Methods of Increasing Production
End Product of Circular Knitting m/c
Flat Bed Knitting Section
Classification of Flat Knitting
Process Flow of Flat Bed Knitting m/c
Quality Standard
018
019
020
021
021
023
024
025
026
026
027
028
031
031
032
034
034
034
035
036
037
3 Gray & Batch
Section
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.4
3.5
3.6
3.7
3.8
3.9
Batch process flow chart
Batch Calculation:
GREY FABRIC INSPECTION
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE FINAL
GRADING PROCEDURE
OBJECT OF BATCHING
PROPER BATCHING CRITERIA
BATCH MANAGEMENT
M/CS IN BATCH SECTION
037
037
037
037
038
037
038
038
038
4 Lab Section
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5
4.6
4.7
4.8
4.9
Lab dip:
Objective of Lab dip
The responsibilities of the laboratory are
Laboratory m/c
Lab dyeing process follows up
Properties test
Color fastness to rubbing
Color fastness to washing
Pilling test
040
040
040
040
044
045
045
045
045

4.10 Dyestuff Strength test 046
5 Dyeing
Section
5.1
5.2
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.6
5.7
5.8
5.9
5.10
Layout of Dyeing Section
Dyeing m/c Specification
Chemical Used in BHDP
Dyestuffs Used in BHDP
Sequence of Dyeing
Process Dyeline for Cotton Dyeing
Recipe for Different Dyeing
P.H Level at Different Dyeing Stage
Std. Operational Process of Dyeing m/c
Operational Safety of Dyeing m/c
048
049
058
058
059
065
067
069
070
071
6 Finishing
Section
6.1
6.2
6.3
6.4
6.5
Layout of Finishing Section
Introduction
Flowchart of Finishing Process
Finishing m/c Specification
Different Finishing m/c
073
074
075
076
078
7 Printing
Section
7.1
7.2
7.3
7.4
7.5
7.6
MACHINERIES IN PRINTING SECTION:
Automatic Screen Printing M/C
Basic Printing Flow Chart
Standard Operating Procedures
Different Types of mesh fabric.
PRINTING PROCESS SEQUENCE
084
084
086
087
088
088
8 Washing
Section
8.1
8.2
8.3
8.4
Garments Dyeing
Garments Washing
Garments Washing Presses
Faults of Garments Washing
091
091
091
091
9
Garments
Section
9.1
9.2
9.3
9.4
9.5
9.6
9.7
9.8
Garments Types & information
Description of Garments section:
Machine in garments section
Production Sequences & Operations
Cutting Layout
Sewing Layout
Production Process of the Line-C
Costing of the product
097
098
102
103
103
104
106
107
10 Quality
Control
10.1
10.2
10.3
Introduction
Finished Fabric Inspection
Faults in Knitted Fabrics
108
109
110
11
Research &
Development
11.1
11.2
11.3
11.4
Introduction
R & D Section in BHDP
Work Flow of R & D Section
Different Method of Measuring G.S.M
118
118
119
120
12
Effluent
Treatment
Plant
12.1
12.2
12.3
Introduction
Different Sectors of E.T.P
Flow Diagram of E.T.P in BHDP
122
123
125

13 Utility
Services
13.1
13.2
13.3
13.4
13.5
13.6
Introduction
Water Treatment Plant
Electricity
Steam
Compressed Air
Gas
127
127
130
131
132
132
14 Maintenance
14.1
14.2
14.3
14.4
Introduction
Types of Maintenance
Maintenance Tools &Equipments
Maintenance of Machinery
134
134
134
136
15 Conclusion
Conclusion
Suggestion to BHDP
Limitation of this Report
Lastly
Reference
143
144
145
145
146

Introduction
Chapter
- 01

Bengal-
Hurricane
Dyeing &
Printing
N
1.1 LOCATIONMAP OF THE BHDP FACTORY
E W
Joydebpur Road Konabari Road
Monipur
Bazar
Baza
ARABI
FASHION
LTD
& NHK
Dhaka Mymensing Road
Hotapara
GazipurChaurasta
S

of
BENGAL HURRICANE DYEING &
PRINTING (PVT.) LTD.
BK bari ,Taltoli,Mirzapur,Gazipur, Bangladesh

1.2 Project Profile
1. Name of the Company Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing(Pvt.) Ltd.
2. Nature of the Company Private Limited Company
3. Nature of the Project 100% Export Oriented Company
4. Type of Manufacture 100% Knit Composite Factory
5. Production Information 100% Knit Garments Manufactures
6.Export Market Europe, USA, Japan
7. Production Lead Time 90 Days
8. Sister Concern  Novel HurricaneKnitting (pvt.) Limited
 Arabi Fashion Limited
 AST
 Binoda
9. Banking Policy Al Arafah Bank Ltd
10. Year of Establishment 1999
11. Annual Turnover $ 50 Million
12. Factory Taltoli, B.K bari,Monipur, GazipurSadar ,
Gazipur-1703,Bangladesh.
13. Knitting Unit NHK,Bokran, Monipur, GazipurSadar ,
Gazipur-1703,Bangladesh.
14. City Office 122/A Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka-1208. Bangladesh
Phone: +88028815356
Fax: +88028819372
E-mail: nhk@nhk-ast.com ,infobhdp@nhk-ast.com
15. Managing Director Md. GolamSaroar
16. Factory Description Bengal Hurricane Dyeing &Printing(Pvt.) Ltd.is a
100% export knit vertical integrated Company.
The factory situated at Taltoly,BK Bari,
MirzapurGazipur, Bangladesh. The factory has
started its operation from 1999. The corporate
office and factory building at present

address.Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing
(Pvt.) Ltd. is manufacturer all types of Knit
garments like Kid’s, Men’s, Ladies, Girl’s, and
Sleepwear etc.
17. Raw Material Storage Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing(Pvt.) Ltd.
storage facility is safe, systematic, and fully
compliant with the local laws. The factory
follows 4-point fabric inspection system to
ensure fabric quality. Apart from this, other
standard measures for Quality Assurance like
Shade Continuity, 100% Garment Parts
Inspection & Numbering are strictly followed.
18. Final Inspection 100% of the garments are inspected and BHDP
works in a strict AQL Level of 2.5. The company
always stands by its quality.
19. Products Fashion T-shirts, Polo shirts, Tank Top, Sweat
Shirt, Long Pant, Ladies Any Kind of Lycra
Tops/Dress/Pajamas, Knitted shorts, Leggings
Nightwear and School wear etc.
20.Product Mix:Knit Single Jersey, Lycra Single Jersey, Polo Pique,
Back Pique, ,Stripe,Waffle,Crape,1×1 Rib,2×2
Rib, Lycra Rib, Plain Interlock, Fleece, Fleece
Terry,100% Polyester ,Chief Valued Cotton
(CVC),Polyester-Cotton Blend
Grey Melange
(15% Viscose, 85% Cotton)
Ash Melange
21. Amount of Machinery a) Knitting
 Circular Knitting Machine = 72
 Flat Bed Knitting Machine = 6
 Grey Inspection Machine = 2
b) Dyeing
 Sample Dyeing Machine = 9
 Production Dyeing Machine = 15
c) Laboratory
 Laboratory Dyeing Machine = 4
 Sample Dryer = 4

 Data Color System = 1
 Light Box Cabinet = 1
 Tubeless Dispenser=1
 Washing Machine = 3
 Tumble Dryer = 2
 Hot Air Oven = 1
 Crock Meter = 1
 Perspirometer = 1
 Conditioning Machine = 1
 Others: P.H meter, Shaker, G.S.M Cutter
e) Finishing
 Stenter Machine = 2
 Dewatering Machine = 2
 Slitting Machine = 3
 Compactor Machine = 3
 Canlar Dryer =1
f) Printing
 Printing Machine = 3
 Curing Machine = 2
 Heat Pressing Machine = 5
g) Washing
 Garments Dyeing Machine = 4
 Washing Machine = 2
 PP Spray Machine = 1
22. Production Capacity Dyeing:20 tons per day
23. Departments  R&D Section
 Knitting Section
 Dyeing Section
 Garments Section
 Planning Section
 Maintenance Section
 Store Section
 Administrative Section
 Security Section
 Marketing Section
24. Total Manpower 6500-7000
25. Major Buyers  Esprit
 Primark
 Uniqlo
 H&M

Participation in Social Activities
BENGAL HURRICANE DYEING & PRINTING (PVT.) LTD. is always
concern about the benefit of the society through the socio-economical
development of their employees, customer and common citizen. BENGAL
HURRICANE DYEING & PRINTING (PVT.) LTD. takes part in
different social activities for their well reputation and advertisement such
as-
 Sponsorship of different types of sports like- Football, Cricket etc.
 Organizing picnic and cultural activities among the employees.
 Publishing wall magazines in the industry with the participation of
employees.
 Full free medical services to employees.
Contribution to Textile Education
BENGAL HURRICANE DYEING & PRINTING (PVT.) LTD. always
ready for contributing to the education system of Bangladesh especially for
the Textile Engineering education. Each year they give permission for
internship program to graduate and diploma students of Textile
Engineering in their industry.
They also offer mill visit program for different Textile Engineering
institution every year. Besides these, they organize training program for
new and unskilled employees regularly.
Management
Management team is headed by the Managing Director Mr. Md.
GolamSaroar,who has decade-long hands-on experience in all the facets of
the RMG industry. Mr. Alam is a widely traveled person, having good
understanding of the market with skills of 'innovation' & 'getting things
 New Look
 Asmara
 Cecile
26.Business Line Manufacturing & Marketing of wide
range of knit Apparels

done'. He is assisted by a highly qualified & dedicated team of
Merchandising & Commercial managers/executives.
Garment Production team is headed by Production Director, Mr.
Shaikh Mohd. Ilias, a Mechanical Engineer from BUET, who stays at factory,
most of the time to monitor production and quality.
Work Environment
Strives for safe and healthy work environment. The number of
helpers is much below than the local industry standard. Employee benefits
and working conditions are as per guide line provided by the government
that includes Maternity Leave with pay for 3 months, Two Festival Bonus
per year, Attendance Bonus, Provident Fund, Performance Bonus, adequate
safety & security measures.
Initiatives have been taken to introduce Time & Motion Study to
enhance productivity and Quality Certifications to match global
competitiveness. Other notable features to ensure excellent Work
Environment are:
 All employees have to undergo a 2-day of orientation course. Special
training program for new and unskilled workers and supervisors are
arranged regularly.
 BHDP has separate Training Room for imparting training to workers,
supervisors on various aspect of production process, quality control
of garments, etc.
 All workers are provided with bar-coded ID cards.
 Salaries including overtime are paid regularly by 7th of the following
month
Occupational Health, Safety, & Concern for Environment
 Spacious purpose-built safe and secured factory building.
 First-Aid, Protective Clothing/Gears.

1.3 Organizational Structure of BENGAL HURRICANE DYEING
& PRINTING (PVT.) LTD.
Asst.
Dyeing
Manager
Production
Officer
Shift
Incharge
Quality
Controller
Supervisor
Managing Director
Director
Director Finance
General Manager
Manager
Admin
Manager
Lab
Manager
Dyeing
Manager
Finishing
Manager
Maintenanc
e
Manager
Ptg
Assistant
Manager
Production
Officer
Jr. Officer
Lab
Technician
Lab QC
Assistant
Manager
Senior
Executive
Officer
Senior
Officer
Admin
Officer
Office
Assistant
Peon
Operator
Helper
Senior
Executive
Executive
Supervisor
Sr.
Incharge
Operator
Helper
Asst.
Manager
Sr.
Executive
Executive
Incharge
Filter Man
Electrician
Mechanician
Sr.
Executive
Executive
Sr. Incharge
Sample Master
Color Master
Supervisor
Disigner
Operator
Helper
Sr.
Operator

Knitting Section
Chapter
- 02

2.1 ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING SECTION
AGM Fabrics
Manager-Knitting
Assistant Manage
In-house ProductionProduction(In-house/out-house)
ERP R&D Flat knit In-charge
Executive Executive(Follow-up) Ass. Fitter(3*3-shoft)Sr. Executive
Operator
Executive(Floor-incharge)Sr. Executive(YD) Sr. Executive(Solid) Sr.Technician Helper(9*3-shift)
Executive-YD Executive-Solid Executive(prog.) Executive(prog.) Executive(prog.) Executive(prog.) Executive(Yarn)
Out-side QC(13) QC
Executive(3-shift*2-charge)
Sr. Technician(2-Channel*2)
Fitter-Man(3-shift*2-Channel) Service-Man(8*2-shift)
Ass. Fitter(3-shift*2-Channel) Needle-Man(3-shift)
Operator(75% of m/c)
Helper(3-shift*2-Channel)
2.2Layout of Knitting Section

Fig:Layout of Knitting Section
2.3 Introduction

Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing(Pvt.) Ltd.is a famous
composite textile industry in Bangladesh located at Monipur, Gazipur, Dhaka.
BHDP is producing different types of knitted fabric with great excellence.
They are also performing dyeing, printing, finishing and garment
manufacturing operation and supplying products to the International Buyers.
Single jersey, Single locust, Rib, Interlock etc are common type fabric produced
by BHDP.
There are two types of knitting machine in BHDP they are; Circular
knitting m/c and Flat bed knitting m/c. The no. of circular knitting m/c is 36 and
no. of flat bed knitting m/c is 6. All the knitting m/c’s are active and working with
good performance.
Among the 36 circular knitting m/c’s they are from 5 different company as
Fukahama, Terrot, Jumberca, Tien Yang and Wellknit and among 28 flat bed
knitting m/c’s they are from different company like ProttiFashiontronix,
Kauoheng, JY-LEH etc.
The dia and gauge of different circular knitting m/c are different like
20”/24G, 21”/24G, 22”/24G, 23”/24G, 24”/24G, 25”/24G, 26”/24G, 28”/24G,
30”/18G, 30”/24, 30”/32G, 32”/24G, 34”/24G, 36”/18, 36”/24G, 36”/18G,
36”/28G.
There are 5 Rib m/c (m/c no. 12,13,14,15,22,), 1 Interlock m/c (m/c no.
21) and rest 30 m/c’s are single jersey. Among the 30 single jersey m/c there are
4 open width single jersey m/c,4 Engineering Stripper. The open width single
jersey m/c produces knitted fabric in open width but they can also be used to
produce tubular knitted fabric by changing some simple mechanism.
BHDP is using different types of yarn of different count for their
production of different types of fabric. The common counts of yarns are 20, 22,
24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 40 etc. The yarns are different types in properties like
carded, combed, CVC,slub, millange, blended,nepetc
BHDP is mainly producing different types of knitted fabrics such as Single Jersey,
Single Locust (With and Without Lycra), Rib (1*1 and 2*2) (With and Without
Lycra), Polo Pique, CVC Fleece, terry, 100% Polyester Fabric, Grey Melange,
Interlock etc.
Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn is turned into cloth or other
fine crafts. Knitted fabric consists of consecutive rows of loops, called stitches. As
each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active

stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This
process eventually results in a fabric, often used for garments.
2.4Classification of Knitting
2.5Knitting Structure
Course and Wales
Like weaving, knitting is a technique for producing a two-dimensional fabric
made from a one-dimensional yarn or thread. In weaving, threads are always
straight, running parallel either lengthwise (warp threads) or crosswise (weft
threads). By contrast, the yarn in knitted fabrics follows a meandering path (a
course), forming symmetric loops (also called bights) symmetrically above and
below the mean path of the yarn. These meandering loops can be stretched easily
in different directions, which give knitting much more elasticity than woven
fabrics; depending on the yarn and
knitting pattern, knitted garments can
stretch as much as 500%. For this reason,
knitting was initially developed for
garments that must be elastic or stretch in
response to the wearer's motions, such as
socks and hosiery.
Warp and Weft Knitting
Knitting
Warp Knitting Weft Knitting
Circular Knitting Flat Knitting
Single Jersey Double Jersey

There are two major varieties of knitting: weft knitting and warp knitting.
In the more common weft knitting, the Wales are perpendicular to the course of
the yarn. Weft-knit fabrics may also be knit with multiple
yarns, usually to produce interesting color patterns. The
two most common approaches are intarsia and stranded
color work. In intarsia, the yarns are used in well-
segregated regions, e.g., a red apple on a field of green; in
that case, the yarns are kept on separate spools and only
one is knitted at any time.
Circular Knitting
Circular knitting or knitting in the round is a form of knitting that creates a
seamless tube. When knitting circularly, the knitting is cast on and the circle of
stitches is joined. Knitting is worked in rounds (the equivalent of rows in flat
knitting) in a spiral.
Originally, circular knitting was done using a set of four or five double-
pointed needles. Later, circular needles were invented, which can also be used to
knit in the round: the circular needle looks like two short knitting needles
connected by a cable between them.Longer circular needles can be used to
produce narrow tubes of knitting for socks, mittens, and other items using the
Magic Loop technique.
Flat Knitting
Flat knitting is a method for producing knitted fabrics, in which the work is
turned periodically, i.e., the fabric is knitted from alternating sides.
Flat knitting is usually contrasted with circular knitting, in which the fabric
is always knitted from the same side. Flat knitting can complicate knitting
somewhat compared to circular knitting, since the same stitch (as seen from the
right side) is produced by two different movements when knitted from the right
and wrong sides.
In flat knitting, the fabric is usually turned after every row. However, in
some versions of double knitting with two yarns and double-pointed knitting
needles, the fabric may turn after every second row.
Knitting Variables
 Yarn Count
 Yarn Twist

 Spinning System
 Yarn Ply
 Stitch Length
 Yarn Tension
 Take Down Tension
 Machine Gauge
2.6Various Terms Used in Knitting
Course: Horizontal row of loops produced by adjacent needles in knitting cycle is
called the course of the fabric. A course is a predominately horizontal raw of
needle loops produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle.
Wales: Vertical column of loops produced by same needle in knitting cycle is
called the wales of the fabric. Number of vertical columns of loop of knitted
fabrics is called wale.
Face Loop: If the legs of new loop are passes over the old loop is called face loop.
Back Loop: If the legs of new loop are passes under the old loop is called back
loop.
Stitch Density: The term stitch density is frequently used in knitting instead of a
linear measurement of courses or wales; it is the total number of needles loops in
a square area measurement such as a square inch or three square centimenters.It
is expressed as: Course per inch × Wales per inch
Stitch Length: Length of one loop in the course direction express in mm.
Number of Needle: Machine Diameter × Machine Gauge × 3.1416
Cam: Cam is the specific path of needles to produce a specific type of fabric.There
are three types of cam used in circular knitting machine;
1. Knit Cam
2. Tuck Cam
3. Miss Cam
Knit Cam: It moves the needle upward enough to clear the old loop receive the
new yarn.
Tuck Cam: It moves the needle upward not enough to clear the old loop but
receive the new yarn.

Miss Cam: It does not move the needle upward. The needles neither clear the old
loop nor receive the new yarn.
Needle:A knitting needle or knitting pin is a tool in hand-knitting to produce
knitted fabrics. They generally have a long shaft and taper at their end, but they
are not nearly as sharp as sewing needles.
There are three types of knitting needle-
1. Latch Needle
2. Bearded Needle
3. Compound Needle
Latch Needle is four types- One Butt, Two Butt, Three Butt and
Four Butt Needle.
Sinker: It is a thin metal plate with an individual or collective
operation approximately at right angles at the hook side
between adjacent needles.
Function of Sinker:
In circular knitting machine sinker helps to form the loop by
holding down the yarn.
Needle Gauge:The needle gauge of a knitting machine is a
measure expressed the no. of needle per unit of the needle bed
or needle bar. As for example:
1. In case of circular weft knitting machine &Tricot warp
knitting machine. [Gauge, N=Number of needle per inch]
2. In case of Raschel warp knitting machine [Gauge,
N=Number of needle per two inch]
2.7Classification of Knitting Section
The knitting section of Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing(Pvt.) Ltd.(Knitting
Unit) is divided into two parts although all the machines are placed into the same
floor. The sections are-
1. Circular Knitting Section
2. Flat Bed Knitting Section

Circular Knitting Section:
Circular knitting machine is widely used throughout the knitting industry
to produce fabric. This machine can be built in almost any reasonable diameter
and the small diameter of up to five, which are used for wear.
Figure: Circular Knitting Machine

2.8Specification of Circular Knitting Machine in BHDP
Machine
No.
M/C Type Brand
Name
Country
of
Origin
M/C
Dia
M/C
Gauge
No. of
Feeder
1 Single Jersey Fukahama Taiwan 26” 24 78
5 Single Jersey Fukuhama Taiwan 30” 24 90
9 Single Jersey Tien Yang Taiwan 25” 24 75
12 Double Jersey Fukuhara Japan 24” 24 72
15 Double Jersey Terrot Germany 34” 24 109
16 Auto Stripe Fukuhara Japan 30” 24 109
20 OpenWidth S/J Tien Yang Taiwan 30” 24 90
21 OpenWidth S/J Tien Yang Taiwan 30” 24 90
22 Rib Tien Yang Taiwan 30” 18 60
24 Single Jersey Tien Yang Taiwan 32” 24 96
25 Rib Terrot Germany 36” 18 84
26 Rib Terrot Germany 30” 18 54
27 Single Jersey Mayer&CIE Germany 30” 24 96
28 Interlock Mayer&CIE Germany 36” 24 130
29 Single Jersey Mayer & CIE Germany 34” 24 109
30 Single Jersey Terrot Germany 30” 24 96

2.9 Raw Material for Knitting
Type of Yarn Count
Cotton 24’s, 26’s, 28’s, 30’s, 32’s, 34’s, 40’s
Polyester 75D, 100D
Spandex Yarn 20D, 40D, 70D
Grey Melange (C-90%, V-10%) 24’s, 26’s
Ecru Melange (C-85%, V-15%) 24’s, 26’s, 28’s
AnthraMelange (C-65%, V-35%) 24’s, 26’s, 28’s
PC (65% Polyester & 35% Cotton) 24’s, 26’s, 28’s, 30’s
CVC 24’s, 26’s, 28’s, 30’s
2.10 Process Flow Chart of Circular Knitting Section in
BHDP
Sample Fabric
Design analysis
Machine Selection
Machine Setting for the Required Design
Knitting of the Fabric
Conform Required Quality
Withdraw the Rolled Fabric and Weighting
Inspection
Delivery

2.11 Product Mix (Name and Specification)
Fabric Specification
Single Jersey or Plain
Fabric
-One set needle in used to make this fabric.
-It’s face and back side is different.
-After cutting curling is produced.
-Sinker is used to construct this fabric.
-Needles are placed on cylinder.
Double Jersey
-Two set of needles are used to construct this fabric.
-Needles are placed on dial and cylinder.
-No sinker is used.
-After cutting curling is not produced.
Rib
-It is double jersey fabric.
-Used two sets of needles to construct this fabric.
-Face and back side are same.
--No sinker is used.
Lycra Rib -Fabrics contain an elastic type of yarn which is called
lycra.
Polo Pique -It’s another name is double cross-tuck.
-Two course knit-tuck.
-Two course tuck-knit.
Single Lacoste -It’s another name is single cross-tuck.
-Knit-tuck then all knit.
-Tuck-knit then all knit.
Double Lacoste -It’s another name is back pique.
-Two course knit-tuck then one courses all knit.
-Two courses tuck-knit the one courses all knit.
Plain Interlock -It’s a double jersey fabric.
-Two sets of needles are used to make this fabric.
-Needles are placed on dial and cylinder.
-Face and back sides are same.
CVC Fleece -It’s full name is Chief Valued Cotton.
-Here cotton percentage is more and polyester
percentage is less.
-It may be (40% + 60%, 35% + 65% etc.)
100%PolyesterFabric -It’s constructed by only polyester yarn.
Grey Melange -Combination of cotton and viscose yarn is called gery
mélange.
-Percentage of cotton is more than viscose.
-It’s may be (99% + 1%, 98% + 2%, 95% + 5%, 85% +
15 % etc.)

2.12 Important Parts of Circular Knitting Machine
1. START/STOP/INCH BUTTONS
2. RATCHET LEVER
3. AUTO STOP MOTION
4. FREE STANDING SIDE CREEL
5. AUTO–COUNTER
6. VARIABLE SPEED DRIVE WITH M/C BRAKE
7. FABRIC TAKE UP SYSTEM
8. SAFETY GUARD SWITCH
9. AUTO LUBRICATION
10. AUTO-LINE REMOVAL SYSTEMS
Yarn
Feeding on m/cSinker cam
Cam Arrangement Sinker Inverter
As our fleece m/c it of SMART brand, it has an operating panel of its ownincluding
various indicators & setting points.
2.13Production Parameters
During production of fabric in circular knitting machine following
parameters must be maintain;
1. Machine Diameter;

2. Machine RPM (Revolution Per Minute);
3. Number of feeds or feeders in use;
4. Machine Gauge;
5. Count of yarn;
6. Required time (Machine running time);
7. Machine running efficiency.
a. Production Flow Chart
Executive director takes order from Buyer
↓
Merchandiser estimates total amount of yarn of production
↓
Knitting manager gets production order sheet
↓
Senior Production Officer ordered by K.M. and orders
Production officer and Technical in-charge.
↓
Production officer fixes up stitch length and GSM
With mechanical fitter.
↓
Definite operator operates machine in his full conscious and Attention.
↓
Mechanical fitter fixes machine if there is any m/c fault.
↓
Supervisors keep daily production report and assure m/c is OK.
↓
Fabric roll is checked by a group of inspectors in inspection unit
and weighted.
Final product to the required amount is delivered to dyeing unit.
↓
Grey fabric inspection
↓
Batching
↓
Fabric turning
↓
Loading to the m/c
↓
Pre-treatment (Scouring & Bleaching)
↓
Dyeing
↓
Dewatering
↓

Drying
↓
Compacting & Calendaring
↓
Final inspection & packing
b. Passes of Yarn in Circular Knitting Machine
Creel
Cone
Tube
Knot Catcher
Magnet Pressure
Sensor
Ceramic Eye Pot
Yarn Wheel
Guide
Sensor
Guide
Ceramic Eye Pot (Feeder Ring)
Feeder

2.14Minimum Requirement of Production Parameter
1. For Machine
 Machine Dia
 Machine rpm
 No. of feeds or feeders in use
 Machine gauge
 Required time (machine running time)
 Machine running efficiency
2. For Yarn
 Yarn strength (minimum 13gm/tex)
 Yarn should be waxed (0.1%-0.3%)
 Yarn should not dry
 Right cone angle
 A tail should be kept during winding
 Packing density must be maintained.
3. For Lycra
 Should be good elasticity
 Yarn should be uniform
 Elastic recovery 100%
4. For Others
 Needle Oil should be water soluble
 Belt
 Grease
 Kerosene etc.
2.15Production Calculation
1. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency:
countYarn
mmSLNeedleofNoFeederofNoRPM



2.2046×840×36×2.54×10
860)(..

No. of Needle = 𝜋DG (for S/J)= 𝜋DG ×2 (for Rib)= 𝜋DG ×
2
3
(for
Interlock)
Generally, Machine R.P.M =
900
Fabric Dia
2. Production/8 hours shift in meter:
100/
860.
/
.min/




cmCourse
EfficiencyFeederofNoRPM
cmCourse
Course
[Course/min = RPM × No of Feeders]
3. Fabric width in meter:
100/
.
100/
.




cmWales
knittinginusedNeedlesofnoTotal
cmWales
walesofnoTotal
4. G.S.M Calculation:
 For yarn count in Ne
=
𝑆𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 × 𝑆𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ × (𝑐𝑚) × 59
𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 (𝑁𝑒)
=
𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠𝑒 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑐𝑚 × 𝑤𝑎𝑙𝑒𝑠 𝑝𝑒𝑟 𝑐𝑚 × 𝑠𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑐𝑚) × 59
𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 (𝑁𝑒)
 For yarn count in Tex
=
𝑆𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ 𝐷𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 × 𝑆𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ 𝐿𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ × (𝑐𝑚) × 𝑌𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 (𝑡𝑒𝑥)
10
=
𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠𝑒𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑐𝑚×𝑤𝑎𝑙𝑒𝑠𝑝𝑒𝑟𝑐𝑚×𝑠𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ(𝑖𝑛𝑐𝑚) × 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑛𝑐𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 (𝑖𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑥)
10
5. Length Calculation:
=
𝑊𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 (𝑔𝑚) × 39.37
𝑊𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ (𝑖𝑛𝑐ℎ) × 𝐺.𝑆.𝑀
6. Efficiency =
Actual Production
Calculated Production
× 100%

2.16Methods of Increasing Production
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased
1. By Increasing Machine Speed:
2. By Increasing the Number of Feeder:
3. By Using Machine of Higher Gauge:
4. By Imposing Automation in the Machine:
5. By Imposing other Developments:
2.17End Product of Circular Knitting Machine
Single Jersey M/C:
 Single Jersey Plain
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 Single Pique
 Double Pique
 Mini Jacquard
 Terry
2.18Flat Bed Knitting Section
The Flat Bed Knitting machines have horizontal needle beds. They have
been employed mainly in knitting simulated hand-knitted constructions of a
specialty type, such as cable stitch, basket purl and lace patterning. Generally Flat
Bed Knitting Machine use to produce collar and cuff.
Figure: Flat Bed Knitting Machine
Interlock M/C:
 Interlock Pique
 Eyelet Fabric
 Mash Fabric
 Honeycomb
Fabric
 Face/Back Rib
Rib M/C:
 1 × 1 Rib fabric
 2 × 2 Rib fabric
 Separation fabric
 Honeycomb

The machine which is flat form in shape is called Flat Knitting Machine, It
is also known as V-Bed Knitting Machine. This machine is used to produce collar,
cuff etc.
2.19Classification of Flat Knitting
Three types-
Plain: The machine which produces only plain collar and cuff is called plain flat
knitting machine.
Semi Jacquard: The machine which has a greater flexibility to produce different
types of designed collar and cuff is called semi jacquard knitting machine.
Jacquard: The machine which produces any types of design for collar and cuff is
called jacquard knitting machine. Each individual needle can be controlled in the
machine.

2.20Process Flow Chart of Flat Bed Knitting Section
Sample Collar/Cuff
Design & Size analysis
Machine Selection
Machine Setting for the Required Design
Knitting of the collar/Cuff
Confirm Required Quality
Withdraw the Collar/Cuff and Weighting
Inspection of the Collar/Cuff
Delivery
The common types of faults are as below:
1. Needle broken/breakage. 10. Yarn contamination. 20. Slub.
2. Needle mark. 11. Fly yarn/ dead cotton.21. Thick & thin.
3. Sinker mark. 12. Star mark. 22. Yarn missing line.
4. Belt fault. 13. Patta/ stripe. 23. Grease stain.
5. Lycra uneven tightness or 14. Structure uneven.
looseness. 15. Loop/ Star/ Pin hole.
6. Single yarn. 16. Knot.
7. Oil mark / oil stain. 17. Lycra tension.
8. Wheel mark 18. VDQ pulley problem
9. Lycra out. 19. Holes.
2.21Quality Standard
Four Point Grading System
Size of Defects Penalty Point
3 inches or less 1 point
Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 point
Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 point
Over 9 inch 4 point
Hole Penalty Point
1 inch or less 2

Over 1 inch 4
They are using 4 point system for detecting the fabric faults. There point and
grade of fabric inspection are as below:
1. Up to 01 to 15 Point = “A” Class
2. Up to 16 to 20 Point = “B” Class
3. Up to 21 to 30 Point = “C” Class
4. More than 30 Point = “R” Class
Actual Grade Formula:
Points × 3302
Length (meter)×Width (inch)
Calculation Points/100 SQ. M =
Total Points × 39.37 × 100
Roll Length (m)× Actual Width (inch)
Acceptable Quality Level =
Total Points in the Roll × 36" × 100
Roll Length × Fabric Width (inch)

Gray & Batch Section
Chapter
- 03

3.1 Batch process flow chart
Flow process chart of Batching Section ofBengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing(Pvt.)Ltd.
Fabric Received
↓
Inspection
↓
Fabric Divided according to Diameter
↓
Supervisor batches the fabric according to quantity by Calculation
↓
Sent for Dyeing
3.2 Batch Calculation:
= Batch Quantity (M/C Quantity) / Total Quantity X Diameter quantity
Equation for Rope Length
=Diameter Quantity (Weight of Fabric in a roll) X 39.37 X1000 / Finished GSM / Finished open
Diameter.
3.3GREY FABRIC INSPECTION
The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of Quality Control in the
grey or finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two primary considerations: as
the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.
The grading has two primary functions: First, to classify the fabrics according to standard qualities
based on the end-use and costumer demands and second, to supply information as to the qualities
actually being produced.
The Knitted fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a number of points for
defects as follows.
3.4GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE FINAL INSPECTION
a) All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 Linear yards Mapping will be
done on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard.
b) All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of
points made to insure proper grading.
c) All fabric must meet specifications.
d) At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide whether
the piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and
upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality.
e) The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the
lower quality.
f) Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut. All defects
of one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece. Defects within the first 2 inches or
the last 2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading.
g) Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included
in the grading of fabric.
h) Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade.
i) All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out.

3.5 GRADING PROCEDURE
a) All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defect.
b) Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defect.
c) Surface defects 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per defect.
d) Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect.
e) Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with 2 points per defect.
f) Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per defect.
g) Running defects, such as tucks, needle lines, barre, crack marks, are judgment defects
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a particular
lot of a particular order.
3.6OBJECT OF BATCHING
 To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
 Turn the grey fabric if require.
 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria –
 Order sheet (Received from buyer)
 Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
 M/C capacity
 M/C available
 Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PET, PC, CVC)
 Emergency
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
 To keep records for every previous dyeing.

3.7PROPER BATCHING CRITERIA
 To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
 To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
 To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
 To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.
3.8BATCH MANAGEMENT
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration.
Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time planning is
adjusted according to m/c condition or emergency.
3.9M/CS IN BATCH SECTION
Machine Name No. of M/c Origin
Air turning m/c 02 Local
Air turning m/c 01 KOREA
Open Fabric Batch m/c 01 Local

Lab Section
Chapter
- 04

4.1Lab dip:
Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in
the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics of the dyes and
chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an important task before bulk
production.
4.2 Objective of Lab dip
The main objectives in lab are as follows:
 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash.
 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
 Finally approved lab dip (Grade: ABC)
4.3 The responsibilities of the laboratory are:
 Sample preparation according to buyer requirement
 Different properties test (Wash fastness, Color fastness, rubbing fastness, Perspiration
Test, Pilling Test etc.)
 Strength test of Dyestuff
 Chlorine test, Peroxide test
 Product Development etc.
4.4 LABORATORY m/c
Spectro Photometer. Datacolor (USA)
Tubeless Dispenser Datacolor (USA)
Lab Dyeing Mc (NTP) Denmark
Lab Dyeing Mc (HTP) Labtech ( Taiwan )
Washcator with rumble Dryer James H. Heal (England)
Washing Mc with Tumble Dryer Whirlpool ( USA )
Abrasion Tester Martindle ( England )
Incubator Martindle ( England )
Crock Meter James H. Heal (England)
Pilling Tester Orbitor (England)
Auto Solution Preparation Tools Denmark &UK .
Light Box Verivide ( USA )
Crokemeter, Hygrometer, Rubbing Tester, Washer, Dryer & Other Standard accessories.

Laboratory work sequence:
Sample received (Fabrics)
↓
Check & note the Lot no, Style no, Item no& Collar
↓
Sample Preparation
↓
Run the test
↓
Physical test Wet lab
Color Fastness to wash
Pilling Color Fastness to washing
Crocking
Evaluate the sample Pre-production Sample Final sample
Report Making Test Test
Prepared the report prepared the report
Pass Fail
Deliver Refinish Pass Fail Pass Fail
Need to test again Refinish

4.5 Lab dyeing process follows up
The laboratory dyeing process of Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing(Pvt.)Ltd. is as follow:
Sample Received
↓
Standard is checked with the Reference from the inventory
↓
If matched then sample prepared from that recipe
↓
If not matched than the color percentage is calculated by using Data Color
↓
Recipe Prepared
↓
Sample prepared according to recipe
↓
Standard (From Buyer) and Sample prepared is Compared
↓
If Okay then the sample is sent to Buyer
↓
Buyer approves the sample and order for the bulk production.
Sample Received:
Buyer sends a sample which is considered as standard in whole process. Buyer also gives
some requirements about the properties of the standard fabric. For example, Buyer wants good wash
fastness, light fastness, rubbing fastness, pilling formation etc. The lab receives this standard to make
this fabric according to buyer requirements.
Standard is checked with the Reference from the inventory:
The factory dyed a lot of fabric in its running years. It also stores a lot of sample in its
inventory. The standard is first checked with the samples kept in the inventory.
If matched then sample prepared from that recipe:
If the standard is matched with the sample of inventory then the next process becomes easier.
Because after matching the sample with standard previously maintained recipe is followed. If the
sample does not match with the standard then the process goes to data color.
I not matched than the color percentage is calculated by using Data Color:
If the standard does not match with the samples of inventory, then the standard percentage of
color is found out from the data color machine.
Recipe Prepared:

According to the results of data color machine the recipe is prepared to get the desired sample
of that standard.
Sample prepared according to recipe:
Following the procedure the sample is prepared.
Standard (From Buyer) and Sample prepared is Compared:
After getting the sample is compared with the standard. And several tests are done to meet the buyer
requirement.
If Okay then the sample is sent to Buyer:
Sample is then sent to the buyer for the final approval.
Buyer approves the sample and order for the bulk production:
When buyer gives the final approval the fabric is sent to production floor for the bulk
production.
4.6 Properties test
4.7 Color fastness to rubbing (wet & dry):
Procedure:
Firstly a sample of size (14 × 5) cm is taken at Wales & Course wise. The crocking cloth is put on to
the finger & is staged by finger clip & run 10 times in 10 seconds manually & assesses the crocking
cloth with gray scale.
The crocking cloth is placed on the water, it will suck some water and crocking cloth is then
squeezed. Then place the wet rubbing cloth on to the finger and stag with finger clip and run 10 times
in 10 seconds manually. The crocking is then assessed cloth by gray scale for wet rubbing. Wet and
dry rubbing are checked according to buyer’s requirement.
4.8 Color fastness to washing. (ISO/05-CO6):
Procedure:
1. Size of specimen: Sample &multifibre at (10 × 2) cm then stitch.
2. Detergent: 4g/l ECE detergent (WOB) + 1g/l sodium per borate put in distilled water &
cooled at 20°C & measured PH
(where necessary).
3. the program is run in the following way: -
Test no. Temp°C Liq.volume
ml
Time min. Steel balls Adjust
pH
C2S 60°C 50 30 25 10.5±1
4. The sample is rinsed twice with cold water.
5. At 60°C by hanging or by flat iron pressing the dried but temperature should not less more
than 150°C.
4.9Pilling test:
Procedure:
The fabric 12.5 x 12.5cm is cut & balanced mark should be 10cm by using template. Then the fabric
is sewn so that it can be firmly fit in the tube a moulded polyurethane tubes. Then four tubes are
placed in a box & started 60±2 rev/min for 5 hrs or according to buyer requirement. Then the fabric is
assessed by putting tested specimen on the cabinet & compared with standard photographs.
Shrinkage &Spirality test:

Buyer’s requirements:
Template size: 50cm & 35cm, 25.5cm &18cm (use after quick wash).
Shrinkage: length wise--- 5%
Width wise----5%
Spirality: Left -------- 5%
Right -------- 5%
Procedure:
Firstly two ply of fabric is taken & put the template (50cm) on to the fabric. The template has 8 holes.
Both length & width wise the template holes can measure 35cm at 3 places. Then 8 holes are marked
by permanent marker & also at the edges of the template.
The fabric is sewn & it is given to the washing m/c for run at 60°C for 60minutes with water. After
that the sample is dried & then fabric is measured.
Calculation:
 Shrinkage Test:
Lengthwise: After wash – Before wash
= ----------------------------------×100
Before wash
Width wise: After wash – Before wash
= ----------------------------------×100
Before wash
 Spirality test:
=
M)&HforthLength(wid
2
sideRightsideLeft 
× 100 %
4.10 Dyestuff Strength test:
Dyestuff strength test is very important for any textile dyeing industry.
A dye comes to industry then a sample fabric is dyed first to make it a reference. When that dye is
used and finished from inventory, new dye is ordered. But it is not sure the dye that reached newly,
will make a fabric as much dyed as before. That is why after arriving of dye to the factory it is used to
make a sample. Then this newly made sample is checked in respect of previously dyed sample. If the
two samples match with each other, it is resulted that the strength is okay. But if not match then the
amount to be given (less or more) is determined.
Thus the strength of dyestuff is measured in this way.

Dyeing Section
Chapter
- 05

5.1 Layout of Dyeing Section of BHDP:
Fig: Layout of Dyeing Section of BHDP

5.2 Dyeing machine with all specification:
There are 15production dyeing machine and 9sample dyeing machine in
Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing(Pvt.) Ltd.The capacities of the
machines are not same. Some are large capacity m/c and some are small or
average. Here the all specification of the dyeing and sample dyeing m/c is given
below in brief.
Production Dyeing Machine-1
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Theis(Eco soft)
Country of Origin Germany
Production Capacity 250 KG
No. of Nozzle 02
Maximum Operating Temperature 140℃
Maximum Operating Pressure 3 bar
Water capacity 5500lts
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name MCS(jet multiflow)
No. of Nozzle 03
Machine Type Winch
No. of Nozzle 03

Machine Type Winch
No. of Nozzle 02
Machine Type Winch
No. of Nozzle 04
Maximum Operating Pressure 2.5 bar
Machine Type Winch
No. of Nozzle 04

Machine Type Winch
No. of Nozzle 02
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Suntex
Country of Origin China
No. of Nozzle 04
Maximum Operating Pressure 3bar
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name MCS(jet multiflow)
No. of Nozzle 08
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Fongs(Eco-6-1T)

No. of Nozzle 05
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Theis(Eco soft Plus)
No. of Nozzle 05
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Tong Geng
No. of Nozzle 08
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Tong Geng
No. of Nozzle 08

Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Theis(Eco soft Plus)
No. of Nozzle 03
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Theis(Jet)
No. of Nozzle 02
Sample Dyeing Machine-1
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Theis
No. of Nozzle 01

Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Local
Country of Origin Bangladesh
No. of Nozzle 02
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Local
No. of Nozzle 01
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Suntex
No. of Nozzle 01
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Local

No. of Nozzle 01
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Suntex
No. of Nozzle 01
Machine Type Winch
Brand Name Suntex
No. of Nozzle 01

Figure: Dyeing Machine
5.2.1 Main parts of a dyeing machine
 Dye Bath
 Nozzle
 Winch
 Winch Pulley
 Panel Board
 Addition Tank
 Main Motor
 Pump
 Heat Exchanger
 Water Scale
 Valve
 Magnet Sensor
 Fabric Unload Reel
 Reserve Tank
 Dosing Motor

5.2.2 Sequence of Operation for Knit Dyeing
Grey fabric
Batching
Fabric turning
Loading to the m/c
Pre-treatment (Scouring &Bleaching)
Dyeing
Dewatering
Drying
Compacting &Calendering
Final inspection & Packing
5.3 Different Chemicals used by BHDP with Function
Item Specification Function
Acetic Acid Acid Neutralization
Caustic Soda Alkali Remove dirt’s, oil, wax, fats etc
Soda Ash Alkali Make the color permanent
Glauber Salt Salt Increase absorbency of fabric
Common Salt Salt Increase absorbency of fabric
Hydrogen Per-Oxide Bleaching Agent Remove natural color from fabric
Hydrose Reducing Agent Used in stripping process
Felosan-RGN Detergent Remove dirt’s from fabric
Matclean-OSR Oil Remover Remove oil from fabric
Antimusol-HTS Anti Foam Reduce foam producing
Cotoblank-NSR Soaping Agent Remove dirt’s from fabric
Sarabid-MIP Levelling Agent Help to produce uniform shade
Sarabid-LDR Levelling Agent Help to produce uniform shade
Saragal-CFTRH Levelling agent Help to produce uniform shade
Seraquest-NEO Sequesteren Agent Remove iron
Sapamine CWS Cationic Softener Make the fabric soft

Tubingal-4748 Non-ionic Softener Make the fabric soft
Albafluid-C Anti Crease Remove crease of fabric
AC-200 Anti Crease Remove crease of fabric
Setabicol-DSA-K Stabilizer Increase per-oxide activity
Invazyme CAT LIQ Per-Oxide Killer Remove per-oxide activity
Forzyme APB Per-Oxide Killer Remove per-oxide activity
Enzyme Liquid Enzyme Remove projecting fiber
Forfix-DRF Fixing Agent Fix the color
Matfix-VNF Fixing Agent Fix the color
Antistan LP-3000 Fixing Agent Fix the color
Matlevel-LPF Dispersing Agent Used in disperse dyeing process
Matacid-BD P.H Buffer Control the P.H
Tubinga- RGH Hydrophilic Silicon
Softener
Make the fabric soft
Powersoft-180 Micro Silicon Softener Make the fabric soft
5.4 Different Dyes used by BHDP:
Item Specification
LEUCOFOR BSB LIQ Brightener
SYNO WHITE 4BK Brightener
REACTIVE RED RR Reactive Dye
REACTIVE RED BB Reactive Dye
REACTIVE BLUE RR Reactive Dye
REACTIVE BLUE HB Reactive Dye
REACTIVE N. BLUE EMX Reactive Dye
REACTIVE YELLOW RR Reactive Dye
REACTIVE YELLOW HB Reactive Dye
BEZATIVE RED SLF Reactive Dye
BEZACTIVE YELLOW SLF Reactive Dye
BEZACTIVE BLUE VRN Reactive Dye
BEZACTIVE BLUE SLF Reactive Dye
BEZACTIVE NAVY SLF Reactive Dye
ORANGE S3R Reactive Dye
ORANGE RR Reactive Dye
SOLAZOL YELLOW 3RS Reactive Dye
SOLAZOL RED 3BS Reactive Dye
SOLAZOL RED SP2B Reactive Dye
REMAZOL YELLOW 3GL Reactive Dye
REMAZOL T. BLUE G Reactive Dye
SETAZOL YELLOW 4GL Reactive Dye
SETAZOL YELLOW SX Reactive Dye
SETAZOL RED SX Reactive Dye

SETAZOL RED DSX Reactive Dye
SETAZOL RED SD Reactive Dye
SETAZOL BLUE BB Reactive Dye
SETAZOL BLUE BRF Reactive Dye
SETAZOL N. BLUE NG Disperse Dye
SETAZOL N. BLUE SE TR Disperse Dye
SETAZOL BLACK B Disperse Dye
SETAZOL BLACK TNN Disperse Dye
SETAZOL D. BLACK NG Disperse Dye
SETAZOL BLUE RSPL Disperse Dye
SETAZOL BLUE RBN Disperse Dye
5.5 Dyeing Sequence Operated in Bengal Hurricane Dyeing
&Printing(Pvt.) Ltd.
Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing(Pvt.) Ltd. is using different dyeing
process or dyeing sequence for different types of dyeing purposes like light color,
critical color, PC/CVC dyeing (both part + single part) with different types of
fabrics like single jersey, single lacost, terry, pique, rib etc. Most of the dyeing of
BHDP is knit dyeing.
Some common dyeing processes used in BHDP are mentioned below in brief:
Method A (Normal Process):
Pre-Treatment: Fill Water (1:6)
Load Fabric
Temp: 50℃
Chemical Inject
Temp: 60℃
Caustic Dosing
Temp: 70℃
Per-Oxide Dosing
Temp: 98℃
Run Time: 60min
Cooling: 78℃

Drain
Cold Wash 2 Times
Neutralization (Pre-Treat): Fill Water (1:7)
Acetic Acid Inject
Per-Oxide Clear
Check per-Oxide
Enzyme
Temp: 55℃
Runtime: 60 min
Check Biopolishing
Temp: 80℃
Runtime: 10 min
Drain
Dyeing: Fill Water (1:7)
Temp: 45℃
Leveling Agent Inject
Run Time: 10 min
Color Dosing: 45℃×30 min
Run Time: 15 min
Salt Dosing: 15 min
Run Time: 20 min
Soda Dosing: 30 min

Run Time: 15 min
Temp: 60℃
Run Time: Until Matching
B/D (Bath Drop/Drain)
Color Wash: 40min
Drain
Neutralization (Dyeing): Fill Water (1:7)
A.Acid Inject
Run Time: 30 min
After Treatment (Dyeing): Fill Water (1:7)
Soaping Agent Inject
Temp: 60℃
Run Time: 20 min
Drain
Hot Wash: 30 Min
Softener Treat: Softener Inject
Run Time: 20 min
Check sample (If ok)
Final Unload
Method B (Migration Process):
“Pre-Treatment Process is same as Method A”

Dyeing: Fill Water (1:7)
Temp: 45℃
Leveling Agent Inject
Run Time: 10 min
Color Dosing: 45℃×30 min
Run Time: 15 min
Salt Dosing: 15 min
Run Time: 20 min
Migration 80℃ at 2G
Cooling at 45℃ at 2G
Soda Dosing: 30 min
Run Time: 15 min
Temp: 60℃
Run Time: Until Matching
B/D (Bath Drop/Drain)
Color Wash: 40min
Drain
Neutralization (Dyeing): Fill Water (1:7)
A. Acid Inject
Run Time: 30 min
After Treatment (Dyeing): Fill Water (1:7)
Temp: 60℃
Run Time: 20 min

Drain
Hot Wash: 30 Min
Softener Treat: Softener Inject
Run Time: 20 min
Check sample (If ok)
Final Unload
Method C (Critical Process):
“Pre-Treatment Process is same as Method A”
Dyeing: Levelling Inject 45℃
Temp: 80℃
Dyestuff Dosing: 30 min
Color runtime 15min
Salt Dosing 15 min
Run Time: 5 min
Temp: 90℃ (𝐺𝑟𝑎𝑑𝑒: 1)
Run Time: 10 min (P.H 6).
Cooling: 60
Soda Dosing: 40 min
Soda runtime: 20 min
Color Steam:80℃
Drain
Color Wash:30 min

Temp: 60℃
Drain
Hot Wash
Hot With Soda
Runtime: 5 min
Cold wash 2 times
Softening: Softener (Sample Check: 10 min)
Final Unload
Method of Polyester-Cotton Dyeing:
“Pre-Treatment Process& Cotton Part Dyeing Process Same as Method A”
Dyeing: Take water (1:7)
Buffer solution
Check PH (4-4.5)
Dispersing agent(45℃×5 ́)
Run time: 10min
Color dosing(45 ℃×20 ́)
Run time: 10-15min
Steam up to 130 ℃
Run time: 60 min
Cooling 80℃
Sample check
B/D
Wash 2 times

Inject NaOH (50 ℃×5 ́)
Steam up:80 ℃
Hydross dosing (80℃×10 ́)
Run time (90℃×30 ́)
Wash 2 times
A. Acid inject
Wash 2 times
55.6 Process Dyeline for Cotton Dyeing
BHDP use some process dyeline for dyeing like cotton dyeing, polyester
dyeing etc. A common dyeline for cotton dyeing process is given below:
Pre-Treatment
Detergent
Sequesterent
Anti Creaser
Stabilizer
Anti Foamer
Detergent
Alkali
Bleaching Agent
Soaping/After Wash (Pre-Treat)
Soaping Agent
Peroxide Killer
Neutralization (Pre-Treat)
Acid (Acetic Acid)
Bio-Polish Treatment
Acid (Acetic Acid)

Enzyme
Dyeing (Dyes and Chemicals)
Sequesterent
Anti Creaser
Leveling Agent
Anti Foamer
=====
Dye 1 (Yellow)
Dye 2 (Red)
Dye 3 (Blue)
=====
Electrolyte (Refining Salt)
=====
Alkali 1
Alkali 2
Soaping/After Treatment
Soaping Agent
Neutralization (Dyeing)
Acid (Acetic Acid)
Fixing
Acid
Fixer
After Treatment
Acid
Cationic Softener 1
Cationic Softener 2

5.7Recipe for Dyeing of Different Types of Fabric in
BHDP
BHDP use different types of chemicals and dyes for fabric dyeing. Most of
the dyes used are Reactive and Disperse. The chemicals are of different group
with different types of function. Here some recipes are given below. This are
according to fabric weight and amount of water used.
Recipe No. 1 (100% Cotton Dyeing)
Fabric Specification:S/J Fabric Weight: 673 KG
Dyestuff Used: Reactive Dye Shade:Aqua Green
Liquor Ratio:1:7.5
Pre-Treatment
Detergent (Felosan RGN) : 4.038 kg
Sequesterent (Seraquest NEO) : 2.5238 kg
Stabilizer (Setabicol DSA K) : 2.5238 kg
Soda Ash Light : 25.2375 kg
Bleaching Agent (Hydrogen Per-Oxide) : 12.6187 kg
Anti Creasing (AC 200) : 3.53 kg
Per-Oxide Killer (Invazyme CAT) : 0.7571 kg
Acid (Acetic Acid) : 5.04 kg
Enzyme Liquid : 1 kg
Levelling Agent (Sarabid MIP) : 2.1994 kg
Levelling Agent (Serogal CFT RH) : 8.2476 kg
Dye 1 (Setazol Yellow SX) : 1.5183 kg
Dye 2 (Setazol blue BRF) : 3.0974 kg
Dye 3 (RemazolTurquish Blue G) : 12.5339 kg

Alkali (Soda Ash) : 82.4762 kg
Salt( Sodium Sulphate) : 329.9046
Soaping (After Treatment)
Soaping Agent (CotoblancNSR) : 2 kg
Softening
Cationic Softener (Tubingal RGH) : 3 kg
N.B: Chemicals are measured according to weight of water used and dyestuffs are
measured according to fabric weight.
Recipe No. 2 (CVC Dyeing):
Fabric Specification:Single Jersey Terry-Fleece Fabric Weight: 850 KG
Dyestuff Used: Reactive Dye Shade:Navy-05Liquor
Ratio:1:7
Pre-Treatment
Detergent (Felosan RGN) : 4.16 kg
Anti Creaser (AC 200) : 7.14 kg
Stabilizer (Setabicol DSA K) : 2.08 kg
Caustic Soda Flakes : 10.11 kg
Bleaching Agent (Hydrogen Per-Oxide) : 10.71 kg
Soaping/After Wash (Pre-Treat)
Soaping Agent (Cotoblanc NSR) : 912 gm
Per-Oxide Killer (Invazyme CAT) : .714 kg
Enzyme Liquid : 1.7 kg
Salt (Sodium Sulphate) : 416.5 kg
Soda Ash Light : 104.12 kg

Anti Creaser (Alba Fluid C) : 1.785 kg
Levelling Agent (Sarabid LDR) : 4.16 kg
Anti Foam : 912 gm
=====
Dye 1 (SetazolBlack BEX/B) : 20.83 kg
Dye 2 (Setazol Red-3BS) : 5.85 kg
Dye 3 Reactive Yellow 3RS) : 3.44 kg
=====
Electrolyte : 136 kg + 800 gm
Soaping (After Treatment)
Soaping Agent (Cotoblanc NSR) : 0
Anti Creasingagent(Alba Fluid c) : 1.785 kg
Neutralization (Dyeing)
Softening
Cationic Softener (Sapamine-CNS) : 0
N.B: Chemicals are measured according to weight of water used and dyestuffs are
measured according to fabric weight.
5.8 P.H Levels for Different Stages of Dyeing
Cotton Dyeing:
1. Initial Bath pH : 6.5~7.0
2. Before Enzyme, bath pH : 4.5~4.7
3. After Enzyme &Aquachoron, pH : 5.5~6.0
4. Before Scouring & Bleaching, pH (With Enzyme) : 5.5~5.8
5. Before Scouring & Bleaching, pH (Without Enzyme) : 5.5~5.8
6. Scouring &Bleaching, bath pH : 10.0~10.5

7. After Scouring & Bleaching, pH : 8.5~9.0
8. Before Leveling Chemicals, pH : 6.5~7.0
9. After Leveling Chemicals, pH : 6.7~7.0
10. After Adding Dyes, pH : 6.2~6.35
11. After Addition of Salt, pH : 7.5~8.0
12. After Addition of Soda, pH : 10.5~11.0
13. Before Hot Wash, Bath pH : 6.8~7.2
14. Hot Wash, bath pH : 8.5~8.7
15. Before Softener, bath pH : 7.2~7.8
16. After Softener Addition, bath pH : 6.5~6.8
Polyester Dyeing:
1. Initial bath pH : 6.5~7.0
2. Scouring, bath pH : 10.0~11.5
3. After Scouring, bath pH : 8.5~9.0
4. Before Addition of Leveling Chemicals, pH : 6.0~6.5
5. After Addition of Leveling Chemicals, pH : 4.5~4.7
6. After Addition of Colors, bath pH : 4.2~4.3
7. During Reduction Clearing, bath pH : 10.5~11.5
8. Before Softener, bath pH : 6.3~6.8
9. After Softener Addition, bath pH : 5.8~6.2
5.9 Standard Operational Procedure of Dyeing Machine
1. Take over the machine from previous shift (check machine condition, any
special instruction urgency etc).
2. Check the utilities supply (water, air, electricity etc).
3. Read the dyeing program (provided by supervisor).
4. Check and read carefully the technical information (provided by Dye-
House Manager).
5. Check the batch availability (prepared by batch section) of specific
machine.

6. Load the fabric into the machine and properly stitch together of two edges
of fabric, don’t make knots.
7. Select the dyeing program (program no. will be informed by Dye-House
Manager).
8. Have to ensure the stock of dyes and chemicals before start the specific
program.
9. Check P.H, water level, temperature, dosing whatever required.
10.Before unloading, should be check the P.H of the fabrics (P.H=5~6)
11.Keep the section clean and tidy.
5.10 Operational Safety of Dyeing Machine
1. Don’t open the lid during pressurized the machine and temp above 80℃.
2. During addition of the chemicals and dyes into the machine hand gloves,
gum boot. Eye protects goggles and masks should be used by the operator.
3. During checking the sample, should be depressurized the machine, reduce
the temp and stop the particular reel (if possible).
4. During tanglement of the fabrics, should be depressurized the machine,
reduce the temp, reduce the pump and reel speed, use the hand gloves,
gum boot, eye protect goggles and masks.
5. Don’t touch the machine surface when machine temperature is high.
6. Pull off the operating bar during the filter changing or sample checking.

Finishing Section
Chapter
- 06

6.1 Layout of Finishing Section of BHDP:

6.2 Introduction
Textile finishing , in a restricted sense , is the term used for a series
of processes to which all bleached , dyed , printed and certain grey fabrics
are subjected before they are put on the market . In fact , finishing includes
the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber .
According to Textile Terms and Definition the Finishing describe as, “Descriptive
processes, physical or chemical, applied to a substrate to produce a desired
effect”.
Finishing is a chemical or mechanical process applied on textile goods
after dyeing and printing process just to give it some quality development
according to the demand of user or customer or buyer.
In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to any process performed on yarn
or fabric after weaving or knitting to improve the look, performance, or "hand"
(feel) of the finished textile or clothing. Some finishing techniques, such as fulling,
have been in use with hand-weaving for centuries; others, such as mercerization,
are byproducts of the Industrial Revolution.
Standard Finishes are different types like quality-oriented, design-oriented, and
handle-oriented. There are also some special types of finishing process like bio-
polishing, mercerization, raising, fulling, decasting, calendaring, sunforizing or
pre-shrinking, peach finish, crease-resit finish, anti-microbial finish etc.
Objective of Finishing:
1. Improving the appearance – Luster, whiteness, etc.
2. Improving the feel, this depends on the handle of the material and its
softness, suppleness, fullness, etc.
3. Wearing qualities, non – soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc.
4. Special properties required for particular uses–water–proofing, flame
proofing, etc.
5. Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
Types of Finishing:
1. Chemical Finishing:
 Permanent chemical finishing
 Temporary chemical finishing
2. Mechanical Finishing:
 Permanent mechanical finishing
 Temporary mechanical finishing
Finishing Effects:
 Easy Care.
 Crease recovery.
 Dimensional stability.
 Good abrasion resistance.
 Improved tear strength.
 Good sew ability.
 Soft or stiff handle.
 Shine or luster.

6.3 Flowchart of Finishing Process:
Finishing
Open Line
Make Openby
Slitting m/c
Stentering m/c
Open
Compactor m/c
Final
Inspection
Packaging
De-Watering
m/c
Dryer
Tubular
Compactor m/c
Final
Inspection
Packaging
Tube Line

6.4 Different Finishing m/c with all specification:
The finishing section of Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing (Pvt.) Ltd is
consists of different types of finishing machines. There are Dewatering m/c,
Slitting m/c,Stenter m/c, Tubular compactor m/c, Open width compactor m/c,
etc. in this section. The specifications of this machine’s are given below:
a. Slitting Machine-1
Machine Name Slitting m/c
Company Name BIANCO
Country of Origin ITALY
Maximum Production Capacity 3000 kgs/shift (8 hours)
Average Production Capacity 2500 kgs/shift (8 hours)
Maximum Speed 90 m/min
Maximum Padder Pressure 5 bar
Normal Padder Pressure 1-4 bar
Padder Roller One pair
b. Slitting Machine-2
Machine Name Slitting m/c
Company Name BIANCO
Country of Origin ITALY
Average Production Capacity 2500 kgs/shift (8 hours)
Maximum Padder Pressure 5 bar
Normal Padder Pressure 1-4 bar
Padder Roller One pair
c. Stenter Machine-1
Machine Name Stenter m/c
Company Name IL SUNG MACHINERY Co. Ltd.
Country of Origin S. KOREA
Model No IS-SST-8GP
Number of Chamber 8
Number of Burner 8
Number of Blower 8
Maximum Temperature 220℃
GSM Control By Over Feed
Year of Manufacture 2009

d. Stenter Machine-2
Machine Name Stenter m/c
Company Name IL SUNG MACHINERY Co. Ltd.
Country of Origin S. KOREA
Normal Working Capacity 2000 kgs/shift (8 hours)
Number of Chamber 8
Number of Burner 8
Number of Blower 8
Minimum Temperature 100℃
Normal Temperature 150℃
GSM Control By Over Feed
e. Compactor Machine-1
Machine Name Compactor m/c (Open Line)
Company Name FERRARO
Model No. COMTEX-A -2600
Country of Origin Italy
Production Capacity 2000 kgs/shift (8 hours)
Speed 15-20 m/min
Over Feed 4.5-6.5% as required
f. Compactor Machine-2
Machine Name Compactor m/c (Open Line)
Company Name FERRARO
Model No. COMTEX-A -2600
Country of Origin Italy
Production Capacity 2000 kgs/shift (8 hours)
Speed 15-20 m/min
Over Feed 4.5-6.5% as required
g. Tube Compactor Machine
Machine Name Tube compactor m/c

Company Name Tubulal Textile LLC
Country of Origin U.S.A
Model No Pak-nit II-Delta Plus-SP
6.5 Different Finishing m/c Used in Bengal Hurricane Dyeing
& Printing (Pvt.) Ltd.
4.5.1 Squeezing Machine
The main task of squeezing machine is to remove water remaining in the
fabric after dyeing or any wet-process by padding and squeezing system.
Function of Squeezing m/c:
 Remove the excess water from fabric.
 Control fabric dia.
 Use softening chemicals if required.
 Use padder pressure to make the color shade lighter or darker.
4.5.2 Dryer
The main task of dryer or drying machine is to dry the fabric by heating.
Heating is done by gas burner.
Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is
evaporated from the fabric. The dryer machine ofBHDP contains3 Gas burners,
3chambers, 3 blowers. Its maximum temperature is 174℃ and minimum
temperature is 110℃. Normally, 150℃ is used to dry the fabric.
Function of Dryer:
 Dry the fabric.
 Increase GSM by using vibrator.
 Control color shade by increasing or decreasing the temperature.
Figure: Dryer

6.5.3 Stenter Machine
Stenter can be defined as finishing process in which the open width from
of the fabric is treated to set up the required width, weight and fabric texture as
per customer’s specification. These requirements from the customer are
achieved by a single process.In BHDP there are two stenter machines. Two
machines are same. Stenter machine contains 8 chambers, 16 burners, 16
blowers and its production capacity is 4200 kgs/shift (8 hours).
Figure: Stenter Machine
Function of StenterImportant Parts of Stenter
 Drying
 Shrinkage Control
 Heat Setting
 Width Control
 Finishing Chemical Application
Working Principle of Stenter Machine
 Stenter frames are consists with and endless chain on each side to grip the
fabric by both selvedges, as it enters each chamber.
 The distance between the chains can be increased or decreased.
 In every chamber there are burners and blowers.
6.5.4Compactor Machine
The compactor machine is used to make the fabric more compact. After
stentering, if the required G.S.M, shrinkage and dia is not gain then it
should be treated with a compactor machine. In other words, this is a
process of compacting the fabric in length ways direction.
Objectives of Compacting the fabric:
1. Upgrade the fabric hand feel and import a smooth, silky touch to the fabric.
2. Compress the fabric and reduce its thickness.
3. Import different degree of luster to the fabric.
 Burner
 Exhaust Air Fan
 Over Feed Roller
 Suction Fan
 Nozzle

Setting for compacting machine:
Machine Parameter Set Up Value
Steam Pressure 2 bars
Air Pressure 4 bars
Temperature 100-120
C.
Machine Speed 15-50 m/min
Over Feed 35 m/min
Figure: Open Compactor Machine
Figure: Tube Compactor Machine
Important Parts
 Over feed roller.
 Expander
 Blanket (2).

Operational Parameters
 Set the temperature at 120℃ (as required).
 Set the speed as much as possible (15-25 m/min)
 Set the over feed roller percentage as required increasing G.S.M, over feed
need to increase to a certain limit.
Checking Parameters
 Shade Check: Operator checks shades as delivery side with approved
swatch.
 Width Check: Operator measures fabric width measuring tape compared
with approved swatch.
 Weight Check: Operator checks G.S.M by using G.S.M cutter and electronic
balance.
6.5.5 Slitting Machine
The slitting machine is used to slit the tubular fabric and dewatering.
Sometimes, this machine is used only for washing with normal water or with
softener. Here tubular fabric become open-width and dewatering is performed.
Fig: Feed zone of Slitting M/C Fig: Fabric Pass through Detwister
Fig: Fabric Pass through Knife Fig: Delivery zone of Slitting M/C

Working Principle of Slitting Machine:
 At first the tubular fabric from the fabric trolley are feed into the slitting
machine.
 There is a magnetic sensor which sense the twist of fabric and it directs the
fabric i.e de-twist the fabric.
 There is cutting knife which continuously cutting the tubular fabric and
making open form.
 The speed of the machine depends on the fabric quality and production
capacity of the machine.
 Sometimes this machine is used only for normal water washing.
 Chemical washing is possible by this machine.
 On the back side of the machine, fabric is collected on the delivery trolley.
Function of Slitting Machine
 Used to remove the excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.
 To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for
stentering.
 Delivered fabric increase Free State.
 Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air
passing by a nozzle or air sprayer.
Checking Parameters
 Cutting Line Check: Operation checks fabric cutting line. Rotary blades cut
fabric through break wales line or not.
 Bow and Slant Check: Operator checks bow and slant at delivery side.
4.5.6 Inspection Machine
In Bengal Hurricane Dyeing &Printing(Pvt.) Ltd. modern and latest inspection
machine is being used to inspect the fabric that is to identify the finished fabric
faults.
Figure: Inspection Machine

Printing Section
Chapter
- 07

7.1MACHINERIES IN PRINTING SECTION:
Fig: Automatic Screen Printing M/C
7.2 Automatic Screen Printing M/C
Machine No. 01
Brand M&R Alpha 8
Origin U.S.A
Head Capacity 12
No. Of Plate 20
Type Head comes down
Machine No. 02
Brand M&R Sportsman
Origin U.S.A
Head Capacity 6
No. Of Plate 8

Machine No. 03
Brand M&R Challenger 2
Origin U.S.A
Head Capacity 12
No. Of Plate 14
Curing Machine:
Fig: Curing Machine
Machine No. 01
Brand M&R Sprint 2000
Model No SD2K482020808083501
Origin U.S.A
Curing Temp 180 (max)
Burner 02
Machine No. 02
Brand M&R Sprint International
Model No SDI482020808383501A
Origin U.S.A
Curing Temp 180 (max)
Burner 02
Max Pressure 10.5” W.C.
Mini Pressure 05” W.C.

7.3 Basic Printing Flow Chart

7.4Standard Operating Procedures (SOPS) for Printing
Receiving of design & color swatch from buyer:
We receive the design, color technique & color swatch in our well concocted laboratory from
buyer through merchant along their quality requirement.
Design Process:
We have separation of color from A/W by using graphics and output to separate design on
film by output to separate design on film by output M/C (linden m/c) comes to the dark room,
and delivery the design by developer machine comes to the same room then delivery the film
to the expose section.
Exposing:
 Film develop:- Film wash with water, Dry with hand dryer and check the design.
 Screen making:-frame collection (aluminum). Mash selection, mash attach with
frame by gum and the mash is completely poultice by TXR then curing with heat
dryer.
 Design shot:-Attach film on screen with gum tape then enter in to exposing machine
and screen shot. After screen shot, then film out of screen and design revelation by
screen washes with spray water
Color making:
We collect color quality standard or pantone number then recipe and color making according
to buyer requirements. We specially look through to MSDS & TDS.
Samples develop:
Our print section print procedure accordingly two types manually (table) and auto machine
printing process. According to the type of design separate table or machine. Sample from the
buyer to approve, one after the other process example-S/off sample, photo sample, SMS
sample, PP sample approved.
Input:
We received goods from garments cutting section & separation to challenge wise, bundle
wise & size wise.
Making program to print:
After approval of a color for print & available of cutting part, printing manager makes
printing program for table section & automatic section.
Print:
Bundle wise goods one after another to dry by dryer.
Quality:
Stand up one gang quality controller whose slogan quality first. QI to check part to part
goods, ok goods through to ok box, eligible repair goods to rectify through ok box & reject
body through to reject box.
Delivery:
At first counting goods accordingly bundle wise & packet to challan wise & finally delivery
togarment cutting section.

7.5 Different Types of mesh fabric used in Bengal Hurricane Dyeing & Printing
(pvt.) Ltd.
 Mesh No 12
 Mesh No 16
 Mesh No 90
 Mesh Gliter
 Bolting Mesh No 60
Chemical Used:
In Mesh Stitching:
 Prepared adhesive Glues ( SFX001 )
 Prepared adhesive Glues ( SFX002 )
In Screen Preparation:
 Photo Emulsion Presensitized Polymer(Photocure TXR)
 Hardener A
 Hardener DL
In Printing:
 Thickener: It is a main component for making a paste.
 Binder: Hold color on to the fabric surface.
 Fixer :Cross linking Chemical.
7.6 PRINTING PROCESS SEQUENCE
7.6.1 Pigment printing:
Recipe: Print Color:16-1452 TPX ( Oran
Uniprint rubbermr/600 --------65.06%
For white BC-MW ---------------27.71%
Bezaprint Orange RG -------------4.05%
For fixer NF-100 ---------------3.18%
7.6.2 Rubber printing:
Recipe: Print Color:19-3952 TCX (White)
For White BC. MW ---------73%
For CLEAR BC.MC ----------19%
For Binder NA -----------5%
For Fixer NF 100 ----------03%
Table preparation
↓
Fabric plaited on the table
↓
Pigment printing paste apply with
the help of screen
↓
Curing at 160◦C (belt speed 6.50
m/min
↓
Delivery
Table preparation
↓
Rubber printing paste apply with
the help of screen
↓
Hanging the fabric for 30 min
↓
Curing at 150◦C (Belt speed 5m/
min)
↓
Delivery

Table preparation
↓
↓
Lak60 printing paste apply with the help of
screen
↓
Curing at 160◦C (belt speed 6.50 m/min
↓
Delivery
Table preparation
↓
↓
Crack paste/clear apply with the help of screen
↓
Dry in air temp or hand dryer m/c (slight)
↓
Printing paste apply with the help of screen
↓
Curing at 190◦C (belt speed 2 m/min)
↓
Delivery
Table preparation
↓
↓
clear apply with the help of screen
↓
Puff paste apply with the help of screen
↓
Hanging the fabric for 15 min
↓
Keep heat press for 5 Sec at 160◦C
↓
Delivery
Table preparation
↓
↓
Printing paste apply with the help of screen
↓
Curing at 190◦C (belt speed 3 m/min )
↓
Delivery
7.6.3 Lak 60 Printing:
Recipe: Print Color:White
Printperfekt LAC-60 ------------78gm
Uniprintrubber MR/100……..118gm
Tuliprintwiss k-90------------------58gm
Tulassist fix 104ww---------------10gm
Tuli soft sem------------------------19gm
Tuli soft ps -------------------220gm
7.6.4 Crack printing:
Recipe: Print Color: Tide Blue
Crack binder 812---------------93.85%
Bezaprint blue BT------------2.43%
Beeza print black DW-------0.65%
For fixer NF100---------------3.07%
7.6.5 Puff Printing:
Recipe:Print Color:19-4015 TCX Gray
For tone puff--------------- 25.30%
NK Couper 594 -------------60.84%
Bezaprint Violet T - -----2.56%
Bezaprint Black DW -----4.23%
Bezaprint Blue RR -------0.81%
For fixer NF-100 -------02.95%
NK Binder R5 H/N ------03.31%
7.6.6 Discharge printing:
Recipe: Print Color 17-6636TCX (Yellow)
Uniprint Binder DC-1 ---------73.07%
Unidxes WFF2 -------------------19.65%
Bezaprint Yellow RR ------------01.05%
Bezaprint Black DW ------------00.16%
Bezaprint Red KF ---------------- 00.05%
Uniprint DC-200 -----------------03.01%
Uniprint DC-Extra -----------------03.01

Washing Section
Chapter
- 08

8.1Washing/ Garments Dyeing Machine specification
M/C Brand name Quantity
1.Sample Dyeing m/c TOLKER 2
2. Sample wash m/c TOLON 1
3. Pigment dyeing m/c TOLON 2
4. Hydroextrator 2
5. washing m/c TOLON 1
6. Dryer TOLKER 1
8.2Garments washing raw materials:
 Stone
 Detergent
 Acid
 KMnO4
 Caustic
 Etc
8.3Garments Washing Process:
1. Acid wash
2. Stone wash
3. silicon wash
4. Enzyme wash
5. normal
6. Heavy garments wash
7. Pigment dyeing
8. Reactive dyeing
9. Direct dyeing
1 Acid wash( dry wash):

Procedure: stone : fabric = 2:1
1g/lpotasium permangnet
0.1g/lphosphoric acid
add stone with misture
add stone with garment sand run about 20-30min
normal wash
5g/l meta bisulphate
hot wash
softner silicon
squeze
dryer
finishing
2 Stone wash:
Procedure: stone : garments = 1:5
Water ratio(L:R) = 1:20
Detergent: 1g/l time:20-30 temp: 40ºC pH: 6-7
Softener silicon: temp : 40ºC, time : 15-25min
Cold wash
Squeeze
Drying
Finishing

3 Silicon wash:
Procedure:
Softener silicon:1g/l, temp:40ºC, time: 20-30min
Cold wash
Squeeze
Drying
Finishing
4 Stone Enzyme:
Procedure: stone: garments = 1;5
Water ratio(L:R) =1:10
Detergent: 1g/l time :20-30min temp: 50ºC pH= 4-4.5
Enzyme:0.5g/l
Softener silicon : temp: 40ºC time 15-25min
Cold wash
squeze
dryer
finishing
5 Normal
recipe:
1g/l detergent
temp : 40ºC
time :10-20min
rinse
1g/l softener silicon
time: 10min
sequezing
dryer
finishing

6 Heavy garments wash:
recipe:
2g/l soda ash
1g/l detergent
time: 30min
temp: (40-50) ºC
pH: 10+
0.5g/l a.acid wash
2g/l softener
1g/l silicon
time:30min
temp:40ºC
Cold wash
squeze
dryer
finishing
7 Pigment dyeing:
recipe:
soda 3g/l
caustic:1g/l
detergent(pcLF): 2.5g/l
2Ud: 2.2g/l
anticreasing agent: 4g/l
leveling agent : 4g/l

normal wash A acid:4g/l
DPE568 2kg
Time 30min
Temp 50ºC
Normal wash
0.25% BEZblack BDC 0.117g/l
0.11% yellow RR:9gm temp 70ºC time:30min
normal wash
CHT binder GFc: 5g/l
Normal wash
Softener:7g/l
Silicon: 3g/l
Cold wash
Squeeze
Dryer
Finishing
8.4Faults found in garments after washing
 Needle damage
 Fabric damage
 Print problem
 spot

Garments Section
Chapter
- 09

9.1 Garments Types & information
Product Information:
Arabi Fashion Ltd.(Bengal Hurricane Group)(Bengal Hurricane Group) strive to provide its
buyers with quality products with an efficient service. Arabi Fashion Ltd.(Bengal Hurricane
Group) range encompasses basic and fashion T-shirts, pique polo shirt, drop needle, yarn
dyed stripes, interlock body fits (women and men) as well as anti peel outdoor fleece for all
age groups.
T-Shirts:
All of Arabi Fashion Ltd.(Bengal Hurricane Group) T-shirt productions are made from fine-
knit single jersey ring-spun cotton. The high stitch density gives a clean appearance and is
particularly suitable for printing and embroidery. The fabric construction ensures strength
and stability after washing.
Basic T-shirt -crew neck Drop needle - V- neck
Heavy T-shirt - crew neck Yarn dyed stripe T-shirt
Heavy T-shirt V-neck Contrast T-shirt (cut & sew)
Interlock ladies T-shirt Yarn dyed T-shirt
Drop needle - crew neck Lycra jersey
2 x 2 Rib T-shirt 1 x 1 Rib T-shirt
Pique Polo:
Arabi Fashion Ltd.(Bengal Hurricane Group) range of polo shirts is made from pique fabric
that is constructed to give a soft fine-knit finish. The high stitch density allows for better
printing and embroidery quality. Strength and style are achieved by reinforcing placket, neck
and shoulders, if required. Provisions for relaxed hemmed sleeves or rib cuff sleeves ensures
comfortable fitting
Fleece &Sweatshirt :
Arabi Fashion Ltd.(Bengal Hurricane Group) has been producing sweatshirts & fleece items
since 1999 and a wide variety of designs for various buyers. Arabi Fashion Ltd.(Bengal
Hurricane Group) sweatshirts are made from 100% cotton or a mixture of polyester and
100% micro polyester fabrics. Brushing or terry finishing can be provided for inside finishing.
Product Attributes:
Fabrics:
Single Jersey, Double jerseys, Lycra Rib, Interlock, Drop needles, Feeder strippers, Auto &
Engineered Stripes, Structured fabrics like: pique, Ottomans, Waffles, Inter-Rib, Heavy
jersey, Pointelle, Mesh, Pile fabrics like Terry, Fleece (2-end & 3-ends), etc.
Fiber Compositions:
100% Cotton, Cotton-Polyester blended, Cotton-Viscose blended, 100% Polyester, 100%
Viscose, Mélange, Polyamide, Cotton spandex & others.

Product Name: Pegasus
Product Code :W664
Price :£1,495.00
Product Type: Sewing machine
Description: 2 or 3 needles with gauges of
3.2mm, 4.8mm, 5.6mm or 6.4mm suitable for
seam covering and hemming garments.
Value Additions:
Prints of different qualities - Pigment, Plastisol (PVC free), Transfers, Photo prints, High
Density, Foil, Flock, Foam, Glitter and Fluorescent, Embroidery works of different qualities.
Specialties:
Tie Dye, Acid wash, Enzyme wash, Silicon wash, Mercerizing, Pigment all-over print
(Padded), Bio-wash, Spray-painted, Hand painted, Sequence with beads, Garment wash, etc.
Source: http://www.nhk-ast.com/product_info.html
SEWING INFRASTRUCTURE
Sewing Machine 700 Sets
SEWING INFRASTRUCTUREFINISHING
Iron 100 Sets
Vaccum Table 100 Sets
SUPPORT
Generator 2 Sets
Covered Van 3 Sets
Thread Sucking Machine 3 Sets
Needle Detector 2 Sets
Gas & Electric Boiler 3 Sets
Washing Machine 2 Sets
Dryer 1 Set
GSM Machine 1 Set
Verivide CAC 60 ( Light Box) ,UK 1 Set
Cutting Machine 7 Sets
Fabric Inspection Table 2 Sets
9.2 Description of Garments section:
Machine Description:

Product Name: Singer
Product Code :457U105
Price :£695.00
Product Type: Sewing machine
Description: Reconditioned Cross
stitch machine
Product Name: Brother
Product Code :B755MK111
Price :£295.00
Product Type: Machines
Description:The Brother B755MK111 Basic
high speed lockstitch machine complete on
unit stand
with Single phase (240 volt motor)
Product Name: Brother PR-650
Commercial Embroidery Machine
Product Code :PR-650
Price :£5,899.00
Product Type:Embroidery Machine

Industrial attachment bengal hurricane group

Industrial attachment bengal hurricane group

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