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UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ASIA
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering.Exam-2017
Batch-Day (21)
Report On
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT (code-411)
At
Ibrahim Composite Textile Mills Ltd
2No, Dhakessary, Godnail, Narayanganj
(From 04 October to 6 December)
Supervised By
Prof.Dr.Engr.Md.Mashiur Rahman Khan
Guest faculty of UNISA & Head
Dept of Apparel Engineering,BUTEX
Prepared By
MOHAMMAD FAKRUL HASAN
ID: 131-0242-002
Batch-Day (21)
UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ASIA
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah to give my strength and ability to complete
the industrial training and this report. I have made my life more bountiful. May you name be
exalted, honored and glorified.
Now I wish to take this excellent opportunity to thank a lot of people who have
assisted and inspired my in the completion of our training period.
Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman khan my supervisor, to whom I am extremely indebted
for his tremendous support and guidance throughout my training period. Being
working with him I have not only earned valuable knowledge but was also
inspired by his innovativeness which helped enrich my experience to a greater
extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable.
I would like to thank the management of the IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE
MILLS LTD for giving me the opportunity to do the industrial training
successfully and also their valuable suggestions. My deepest appreciation goes
to Mr. Raja, Deputy General Manager, IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS
LTD for his permission to conduct my industrial training without which it would
be uncompleted. The generous support is greatly appreciated. I would also like
to IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD for helping me to complete
industrial training successfully. My gratitude also goes to all the employees of
IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD for their sincere co-operation,
support and valuable advices.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD one of the leading
manufacturers & exporters of a wide range of knitted garments. This
company earned a good reputation in the market by manufacturing
superior quality products in various designs and in vibrant range of colors.
This companies have set all the standards of quality and the satisfaction
of the customers is our prime concern. It endeavor to make their
customers happy. Here the production process runs from making yarn to
fabric and from fabric to finished garment.
IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD is engaged in processing
raw fabric to finished products and exports these products to different
countries. Its factory is situated in 2No, Dhakessary, Godnail,
Narayanganj and head office is in Gulshan-1, Dhaka. I worked in the
factory and paid occasional visits to the head office in order to cope up
with the production process. I worked with almost all the departments;
especially in Marketing Department, Import and Export Department and
Merchandising Department. After the global financial crisis, customer’s
perception has become as a most important and sensitive Issue of
companies. It is of course not just important for garments. It is something
that needs to be addressed in relation to all companies.
This company help me to learn about Knitting, Dyeing, Washing, Printing
and Garments. My Industrial training was about all of this sector. I gain
lots of practical knowledge from every sector of this company. In Knitting,
Dyeing, Washing, Printing and Garments i learned about many kinds of
new machinery, many types of chemical and especially many type of
fabrics. I also learned from them maintenance policy and when I know
from them about their management policy it really was a great experience
of my life. I attached almost all details what I gained from this company.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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Address- Corporate office
House no 80(4th floor)
Gulshan Avenue , Gulsan-1,
Dhaka-1212,Bangladesh.
Website-www.ibrahimgroup.net
Contact Details- Phone no. 880 2 9886628 8821163
Fax no.880-2-8812724
Email: info@ibrahimgroup.net ,alammohammed04gmail.com
hossainazmal086@gmail.com
IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD is one of the large groups in
Bangladesh and high GDP contributor. This is a large factory with all the facilities to
composite yarn. Here the production process runs from making yarn to fabric and
from fabric to finished garment. In this age, Bangladesh is flourished with RMG
sector where this division has its immense contribution. It has three high capacity
garments manufacturing plants where it can produce 24.30 million pieces knit
apparels per annum with the help of sophisticated machinery and trained
manufacturing team.
Their plant and human capabilities allow them to undertake any bulk production of
garments in shortest delivery period.
Sample lead time is 7 – 10 days.
Productions lead time is 60 – 90 days after order confirmation.
ICTML.(Apparel Manufacturing Section)
The factory has been awarded WRAP, ISO 9001‐
2000, SEDEX (SMETA) and DISNEY Certificate for its quality products and
Compliance
Year of Establishment 1986
Business lines Manufacturing and marketing of wide range of knit
apparels.
Employee Number Management -250
Production -3000
Product T-Shirt, Polo shirt, Sweatshirt, Fleece shirt, Ladies Tops,
etc.
Production Capacity 775,000 Pcs/Month
Export Market Europe, USA, Japan
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CHAPTER ONE-
Introduction...................................................................................................................................... 6
Objectives: ........................................................................................................................................ 7
Limitations: ....................................................................................................................................... 8
CHAPTER TWO-
2.1. Knitting: ..................................................................................................................................10-22
2.2. Dyeing: ....................................................................................................................................23-37
2.3. Washing: .................................................................................................................................38-46
2.4. Printing: ...................................................................................................................................47-51
2.5. Garments: ................................................................................................................................52-74
2.6. IE: .............................................................................................................................................75-76
2.7. Merchandising: ........................................................................................................................77-84
CHAPTER THREE-
Utilities: ................................................................................................................................................85
CHAPTER FOUR-
Maintenance: ..................................................................................................................................86-87
CHAPTER Five-
Conclusion: ..........................................................................................................................................88
Reference: ...........................................................................................................................................89
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Introduction
RMG (Ready Made Garment) is very important and helpful for our Bangladesh.
Bangladesh has emerged as a key player in RMG (Ready Made Garment) sector since
1978. Textiles and clothing account for about 85% of total export earnings of
Bangladesh. Out of which, 80% comes from the apparel sector which covers the major
products of knit and woven shirts, blouses, trousers, skirts, shorts, jackets, sweaters,
sports wears and many more casual and fashion items. Starting from Buttons, labels,
apparel papers, threads, and all other products are found here. Even services like
dying, washing, and ironing are also found in the corners of Industrial areas of
Bangladesh.
The garment industry of Bangladesh has been the key export division and a main
source of foreign exchange for the last 25 years. At present, the country generates
about $5 billion worth of products each year by exporting garment. The industry
provides employment to about 3 million workers of whom 90% are women.
I have completed this report on the basis of all the department of RMG sector such as
Merchandising Department, Commercial Department, Production Department, Supply
Chain Department, Human Resource Department, and Compliance Department. So
by completing this report I get overall idea about RMG sector, so its carry more value
than any books.
I preferred this attachment in IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD, which is
a 100% export oriented knit industry. For continuing the study of internship in the
IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD I almost worked all the sections of this
company and tried to find out the activities, planning and many other things as well. In
context, I have discussed about these things deliberately to let you know about.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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Objectives
 Its documents for future.
 To know detail about RMG sector.
 Information gathers about commercial.
 Getting idea about shipping procedure.
 Comparison between class room learning and practical learning.
 Knowledge gather about RMG sector related other organization.
 To achieve new idea about knit garments manufacturing process.
 To focus on the valuable part of Internship Report.
 To have skill labor for quality product.
 To study the present market composition for the Bangladeshi garment product
about Market diversification.
 Opportunity of behavioral theory practice in our garments sector.
 Regularly behavioral theory practice in garments industry.
 To do a merchandising practice in the factory.
 Identify the additional services that the existing companies are going to avail.
 To relate the use of groupware and collaborative systems with future trends in
managers' roles and responsibilities.
 To identify merchandising and total production system.
 To find the current scenario of backward supply chain status of ICTML.
 To find the ways of improving the backward linkage of the supply chain for
ICTML.
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Limitations of the study
1. Unfortunately due to the company’s limitations (business secrecy and
confidentiality), I was unable to acquire sufficient information.
2. Personal barriers like inability to understand some official terms; office
decorum etc. created a few problems for me.
3. Time was also a limitation. Gathering a huge amount of information during
working for only two months was really a difficult job.
4. Merchandiser doesn’t have enough time to give the information elaborately.
5. Lack of organizing chain of command.
6. Lack of instruction book, and any change. They are following traditional
business.
7. I may have to suffer for lack of supply chain management.
8. No other garment’s data has been compared with this data. There might be
some discrepancies with other factory’s supply chain scenario.
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2. Different Section of “IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD”
2.1. Knitting
2.2. Dyeing
2.3. Washing
2.4. Printing
2.5. Garments
2.6. IE
2.7. Merchandising
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2.1. Knitting
CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
FLAT KNITTING MACHINE AUTO STRIPE KNITTING MACHINE
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2.1.1-As a backward linkage knit fabric manufacturing plant comprising of state of
the art knitting machines. The plant is capable of producing knit fabrics of different
texture & construction like:
 Single Jersey.
 Interlock.
 Pique Polo.
 Viscose.
 Lycra.
 Nylon.
 Polyester
 1X1 and 2X2 Rib Fabrics.
 Pique Fabrics.
 Fleece.
ICTML use quality yarns for making high quality fabrics to meet up the emerging
demand of the buyers. Their plant capacity is 12,000 kg fabrics per day.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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2.1.2-Infrastructure
Products Type Mechine
Dia
Mechine
Gauge
Brand Country
of
Origin
Feeder Quantity
S/J With Spandex
Attachment
21" 24/48 Pailung - 62 1 Set
22" - 66 1 Set
28" - 84 1 Set
30" - 90 1 Set
32" - 96 1 Set
34" - 102 1 Set
36" - 108 1 Set
38" - 114 1 Set
40" - 102 1 Set
3-Thread Fleece
With Lycra
Attachment
30" 20/24 Pailung - 90 1 Set
Rib & Interlock
With Lycra
Attachment
32" 18/20/24 Pailung - 64 1 Set
34" - 68 1 Set
38" - 76 1 Set
40" - 80 1 Set
Rib With Lycra
Attachment
42" 18/20/24 Pailung - 84 1 Set
Total 15 Sets
Single Jersey Machine
Products Type Mechine
Dia
Mechine
Gauge
Brand Country
of Origin
Feeder Quantity
S/J,Lycra
S/J,single
Lacoste, Double
Lacoste, Polo
pique, Waffle,
Jambo pique,
Popcone,
Herringbone,
26" 24 Fukuhara Japan 84 2 Sets
28" 24 Fukuhara Japan 84 2 Sets
30" 24 Fukuhara Japan 96 2 Sets
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Two thread
fleece,Three
thread fleece
And any kind of
S/J Derivatives
as per swatch.
30" 28 Mayer &
Cie
Germany 96 3 Sets
32" 24 Fukuhara Japan 104 4 Sets
34" 24 Fukuhara Japan 108 5 Sets
34" 28 Mayer &
Cie
Germany 108 1 Sets
36" 24 Fukuhara Japan 116 3 Sets
38" 24 Fukuhara Japan 120 3 Sets
42" 24 Fukuhara Japan 126 1 Set
Total 26 Sets
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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Auto Stripe Machine
Products Type Mechine
Dia
Mechine
Gauge
Brand Country
of
Origin
Feeder Quantity
Engg.Stripe S/J,
S/Lac,
D/Lac.PK,Terry
fleece etc with
Lycra
30" 24 Fukuhara Japan 72 2 Sets 6-
Colour
34" 24 Fukuhara Japan 84 2 Sets 6-
Colour
Rib & Interlock Machine
Products Type Mechine
Dia
Mechine
Gauge
Brand Country
of
Origin
Feeder Quantity
IX1 Rib,2X1
Rib,Verigated
rib,Lycra rib,
Waffle,
Thermal,Mash,
Platting, Plaing
Interlock,And
any kind of
double jarsey
derivatives as
per swatch.
30" 18/24 Fukuhara Japan 72 1 Set
34" 16/18/24 Fukuhara Japan 60 1 Set
36" 16/18/24 Fukuhara Japan 64 2 Sets
38" 16/18/24 Fukuhara Japan 68 1 Set
40" 18 Fukuhara Japan 72 1 Set
Collar & Cuff Machine
Brand Origin Model Needle Color
use
Production Quantity
Shima Seiki Japan SFE-
152
840X2 4 4500 Sets 6
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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2.1.3-Types of Fabric Used in Knit Garments Manufacturing:
There are different types of knitted fabrics, which are vastly used in T-Shirt or polo
shirt manufacturing has mentioned in the below with correct fabric image.
1. 100% cotton single jersey fabrics
Cotton single jersey fabric
2. Lycra or spandex single jersey fabrics,
Lycra single jersey
3. Slub single jersey fabrics,
Slub single jersey
4. Burn out single jersey fabrics,
Burn out single jersey fabric
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5. Grey melange fabrics,
Grey melange fabric
6. Grey melange slub fabrics,
Grey melange slub fabric
7. 100% cotton double jersey fabrics,
Double jersey fabric
8. Fleece fabrics,
Fleece fabric
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9. French terry fabrics,
French terry fabric
10.French terry slub fabrics,
Slub french terry
11.French terry fabrics (inside brushed),
Frence terry fabric (inside brushed)
12.Design terry fabrics,
Design terry fabric
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13.Micro or baby terry fabrics,
Micro or baby terry
14.Pique fabrics,
Pique fabric
15.Pique slub fabrics,
Slub pique fabric
16.Lacoste fabrics,
Lacoste fabric
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17.1×1 Rib fabrics,
1 x 1 Rib fabric
18.2×1 Rib fabrics,
2 x 1 Rib fabric
2.1.4-Yarn count: The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its
fineness or coarseness. It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A
definition is given by the textile institute – “Count is a number which indicates the
mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.”
Types of yarn count:
a) Indirect system- English, Metric, Worsted.
b) Direct system- Tex, Denier, Lbs/Spindle.
Indirect count: The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one
weight unit. Thus higher the count, finer the yarn. The system is generally used
for cotton, worsted, linen (wet spun) etc.
Direct count: The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit.
Thus higher the count, coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic
fibre, jute, silk etc.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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2.1.5-Formulas for the determination of production in length –
Course/Minute
1. Fabric length = …………………………………
Course/cm
2. Course/Min = No. of feeder X Cylinder speed
3. Stitch density = Course/cm X Wales/cm
No. of Wales
4. Fabric width = ………………………….
Wales/cm
No. of Needle π X Cylinder Dia X Gauge
= …………………………… = ………………………………………..
Wales/cm Wales/cm
Formulas for the determination of production in weight –
Course/min X Yarn length per course
1. Fabric weight = ………………………………………………………………
Yarn count
2. Yarn length per course = Total needle no. of machine X Loop length
3. Total needle no. m/c = π X Cylinder dia X Gauge
2.1.6-Relation between count and GSM are given bellow:
A. Single Jersey:
1. 130-150→ 30’s
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
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2. 160-170→ 26’s
3. 180-200→ 24’s (210)
4. 220-240→ 20’s
B. P.K./Lacost/1x1 Rib:
1. 150-170→ 34’s
2. 180-200→ 30’s
3. 210-225→ 26’s
4. 230-250→ 24’s
5. 250-270→ 20’s
C. 2x1 Rib:
1. 220-230→ 30’s
2. 240-250→ 26’s
3. 260-280→ 24’s
D. Interlock
24 G -22 G
1. 40’s→ 220 - 200
2. 34’s→ 250 -230
3. 30’s→ 260 -240
4. 26’s→ 275 -260
E. S/J with Lycra 5%:
1. 150-160→ 34’s
2. 170-190→ 30’s
3. 200-210→ 26’s
4. 220-240→ 24’s
F. Fleece:
1. 250→ 20,30’s (Ratio 20:80)
2. 300→ 10, 26’s (Ratio 30:70)
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2.1.7-Faults seen during knitting the fabric:
1. Yarn dust,
2. Set-up,
3. Loop mark,
4. Needle break,
5. Oil spot,
6. Thick and thin place,
7. Mix yarn or Lot mix,
8. Hole,
9. Lycra out,
10.Yarn contamination,
11.Yarn missing,
12.Tara fault (Star).
13.Lycra Drop
14.Neps
15.Slub
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2.2. Dyeing
DYEING MACHINES
STENTER MACHINE COMPACTING MACHINE
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2.2.1-ICTML & Printing (Pvt.) Ltd. is a Bangladesh-Denmark joint venture company.
The main object of the company is to produce world class knit dyed fabrics for the
export oriented garments factories in Bangladesh. World class branded machines
have been installed for production, to dye and finish a various range of fabrics
including Single Jersey, Interlock, Pique Polo and Rib. In addition, we are able to dye
more sophisticated fabrics such as Viscose /Lycra, Nylon /Lycra, 100% Polyester,
and offer enzyme washing. Our Dyes /chemicals are of European origin including
Dyester, Benzema and Ciba from Switzerland.
The Dyeing capacity of the company is 20 (Twenty) tons per day.
The factory has been awarded Oeko Tex certificate for its quality products.
The Company has a water treatment and recycling unit that attenuates the
environmental input of dyeing processes by lowering the content of COD and BOD in
the sewage water.
2.2.2-DYEING INFRASTRUCTURE
PRODUCTION MACHINE
Name of the Machine Brand Country
of Origin
Model Capacity Quantity
01. Dyeing Machine –
HP
(Controlled by PLC &
Office Computer)
Thies Germany Eco soft 1250
Kgs
1 Set
Eco soft 1000
Kgs
1 Set
Eco soft 500 Kgs 1 Set
Roto
steam
375 Kgs 3 Sets
Luft Roto 2000 lbs 1 Set
Eco soft 1500
Kgs
1 Set
Eco soft 500 Kgs 1 Set
Eco soft 50 Kgs 1 Set
Jet HT 500 Kgs 1 Set
Jet HT 300 Kgs 1 Set
Eco soft 25 Kgs 1 Set
Eco soft 30 Kgs 3 Sets
Eco soft 70 Kgs 1 Set
Tong
Geng
Taiwan NUV 1500
Kgs
1 Set
NUV 1200
Kgs
1 Set
Fongs Hong
Kong
Eco-6 170 Kgs 1 Set
Scoll Germany - 50 Kgs 1 Set
MCS Italy - 600 Kgs 1 Set
MCS Italy - 400 Kgs 1 Set
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02. Dewatering and
Detwisting
Bianco Italy S.Padder 10-12
Tons
1 Set
03. Dryer (Tension Less,
Air Vibration type)
Salvade Italy AMV 10-14
Tons
1 Set
04. Calendar Helliot France - 10 Tons 1 Set
05. Compector Tube
Tex
U S A 60” Pak
Nit II
Delta
Plus SP
Folding
10 Tons 1 Set
06. Slitting Bianco Italy S.Padder 10-12
Tons
2 Sets
07. Stenter IL Sung Korea 8
Chamber
16 Tons 2 Sets
08. Compector Ferraro Italy Comptex-
RC-2500
8 Tons 1 Set
Lafer Italy Pin chain 10 Tons 1 Set
09.Ceramic Brush
Sueding Machine
Mario
Crosta
Italy HS-TS 6 Tons 1 Set
10.Raising Machine Torres - PP128 - 1 Set
11.Shareing Machine Torres - T 148 - 1 Set
12.Emerizing Comet - Pegaso
X11
- 1 Set
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LABORATORY
Spectro Photometer. Datacolor (USA)
Aliba Nuance Datacolor (USA)
Lab Dyeing Mc (NTP) Denmark
Lab Dyeing Mc (HTP) Labtech ( Taiwan )
Washcator with Trumble Dryer James H. Heal (England)
Washing Mc with Trumble Dryer Whirlpool ( USA )
Abrasion Tester Martindle ( England )
Incubator Martindle ( England )
Crock Meter James H. Heal (England)
Pilling Tester Orbitor (England)
Auto Solution Preparation Tools Denmark & UK .
Light Box Verivide ( USA )
Crokemeter, Hygrometer, Rubbing Tester, Washer, Dryer & Other Standard
accessories.
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2.2.3-Formula
Stock Solution:
W=Water
D=Dyes
.001%=100W+.001gmD (Solid)
=99.999W+.001gmD (Liquid)
.01%=100W+.01gmD (Solid)
=99.99W+.01gmD (Liquid)
.1%=100W+.1gmD (Solid)
=99.9W+.1gmD (Liquid)
.5%=100W+.5gmD (Solid)
=99.5W+.5gmD (Liquid)
1%=100W+1gmD (Solid)
=99W+1gmD (Liquid)
2%=100W+2gmD (Solid)
=98W+2gmD (Liquid)
3%=100W+3gmD (Solid)
=97W+3gmD (Liquid)
4%=100W+4gmD (Solid)
=96W+4gmD (Liquid)
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Amount of Dyes:
Amount of dyes=
𝑭𝒂𝒃𝒓𝒊𝒄 𝒘𝒕×𝑺𝒉𝒂𝒅𝒆%
𝑺𝒕𝒐𝒄𝒌 𝑺𝒐𝒍𝒖𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏%
Total liquor:
Total liquor=Fabric wt × M:L
Solid salt:
Solid salt=
𝑻𝒐𝒕𝒂𝒍 𝒍𝒊𝒒𝒖𝒐𝒓×𝒈/𝒍
𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎
Salt soln:
Salt soln=𝑆𝑜𝑙𝑖𝑑 𝑠𝑎𝑙𝑡 25%⁄
Soda is always 25% of Salt.
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2.2.4-Flow chart:
Marketing
↓
Lab dip
↓
Lab dip approval
↓
Sample production
↓
Sample approval & Order for bulk production
↓
Knitting
↓
Sample production according to buyer recommendation
↓
Bulk knitting production
↓
Batching
↓
Pre-treatment
↓
Dyeing
↓
Finishing
↓
Packing
↓
RFD
↓
Garment section
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2.2.5-Production Parameters:
pH
P H during H 2 O 2 bleaching: 9.2-12
P H during reactive dyeing: 10-11.5
P H during disperse dyeing: 4.5-5.5
Temperature:
For cotton scouring: 95° C-98°C
For cotton cold wash: 30° 0 -40°C
For cotton hot wash: 70° 0 -80°C
For cotton acid wash: 60° 0 -70°C
For cotton dyeing: 80°-90°C (For hot brand)
60°C (For cold brand)
Polyester dyeing: 100° -130°C
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Time:
For Scouring: 45-60 minutes
For Disperses dyeing 40-80 minutes.
M: L ratio:
For reactive dyeing M: L ratio maintained between1:6 to 1:10.
Reel speed of machine:
The reel speed of fabric is calculated from following formula –
Reel speed = Fabric weight in Kg × 1000 m/min
Fabric GSM × Fabric width in m × No. of chamber × Cycle time
Process wise fabric wastage:
When a fabric comes for production then some fabric allowance is added with actual
amount of fabric for the further process losses. These are:
Process Loss %
Scouring & bleaching 3-4
Enzyme wash 6-8
Dyeing 2-3
Finishing 5
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Therefore considering the above process losses, before knitting 15-20% allowance is
added with the actual requirement of fabric.
Hardness:
It is measured by hardness measurement stripe & titration process
Hardness check points Requirements
1) Line water
2) Dye bath
3) Salt/soda
Less than 30 ppm
2.2.5-Washing for colored fabrics:
The colored fabrics, to be washed is loaded in the machine
required amount of water is taken.
Detergents added & washing continued at 80 0 C for 20 minutes.
Cold washing
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Scouring-bleaching:
Fabric, to be scoured is loaded in the machine
required amount of water is loaded
washing agent detergent is added
Steam pipes are on & scouring agents (i.e., caustic soda/ soda ash) added at
60 0 C & then temp. reaches at 70 0 C
Then H 2 0 2 is added.
Temperature is then raised to 98 0 C & the process is then carried out for 45-
60 minutes depending on the requirements.
The liquors are then drained.
Then wash with detergent at 98 0 C for 5 min.
Then cold wash, at 35 0 -45 0 C & acid wash, at 60 0 -70 0 C is done.
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Dyeing:
After acid wash all liquors are drained out.
required amounts of water is taken
Then leveling agents, anti-creasing agents, de-foaming agents are added
according to the requirements.
Salts are added and runtime is 15-20 minutes.
Steam pipes are on & after 10-15 minutes dyes are added
Then soda ash, after another 35minutes.
Then the temperature is raised slowly up to the mark.
The process is carried on & samples are taken after every 10 minutes to
match with the target shade. It continues until shade matching.
If the sample is matched, then the liquor is drained out.
Then hot wash at 50 0 C.
Wash with washing agent for 5 minutes.
Acid wash at 50 0 C is done.
Fixing agent is added at 45 0 C for 15 minutes.
Then softener is added at 45 0 C for 15 minutes.
2.2.6-Working Procedure of Stenter Machine:
The fabric is collected from the batcher to the stray and then it is passed through the
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paddlers where the finishes are applied and sometimes shade variation is corrected.
The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straightener) the function of the mahlo is to
set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins are also
provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge
but the stretching of the pins are greater than the clips. These clips and pins are
joined to endless chain. There are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each
chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air. The
circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all
the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers are provided to stretch the warp
yarn.
After stenting we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch. The speed of
the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.
Temperature is adjusted that according to the fabric as for,
1. PC 210 c
2. Cotton 110-130 c
After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c.
2.2.7-Stenter Machines use for:
1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for Lycra fabric, synthetic and blended
fabric.
2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.
4. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
5. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
6. Spatiality controlled by the stenter.
7. GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.
8. Fabric is dried by the stentering process.
9. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
10.Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter.
2.2.8-Working Procedure of Tubular Compactor:
The treatment of knit fabrics in tubular form on the Tubular compactor meets the
exacting standards set by customers so that garment stitched from the fabric finished
on this machine will yield the lowest residual shrinkage values.
1. Width control through a step less adjustable special tubular fabric spreader driven
by variable speed motor for distortion-free fabric guidance.
2. Steaming with a condensate-free steam box which is easily operated and
completely made from stainless steel.
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3. Compacting through two Nomex felt belts.
4. Calendaring while passing between the felt belt and the heated shrinking rollers.
5. Precision plaiting with automatic platform level adjustment controlled by folded
fabric height. Alternatively, a fabric rolling system can be provided.
At the fabric delivery, the machine is equipped with a precision plaiting device with its
platform. The height of the platform is controlled automatically and is adjustable
according to the plaited fabric height.
An optical fabric density measuring sensor can provide the means to automatically
control the compaction of a tubular compactor to achieve the desired course count.
An automatic compaction control system based on density measurement and control
will:
 Eliminate over- and under-weight fabric.
 Reduce or eliminate punch-weight measurements.
 Provide consistent results from all operators.
 Result in uniform fabric, seam-to-seam.
 Yield predictable residual shrinkage.
2.2.9-Compactor Machine Use for:
Compactor is important machine in knit fabric finishing process. There are a lot of
technical work which are done by compactor machine. The works are done by
compactor machine are pointed out below:
1. GSM control of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is increased and fabric
width is decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric width is
increased.
2. Control shrinkage
3. Twisting control
4. Increase smoothness of fabric
5. Heat setting is done of fabric etc.
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2.2.10-Faults
Dyeing Faults:
1. Shade
2. Uneven
3. Meter to Meter Shade variation
4. Roll to Roll shade variation
5. Side to Side shade variation
6. Color spot
7. Chemical stain
8. Softener spot
9. Color crease
10.Fabric strength
11.Loop out
12.Dyeing hole
13.Contrast problem
14.Fastness problem
15.Excess fabric cutting
Finishing Faults:
1. Dirty/Iron/Insect spot
2. Dia variation
3. Uneven GSM
4. Fabric hand fell
5. Water spot
6. Rubbing fastness
7. Finishing machine shinning
8. Wrong slitting
9. Bowing
10.Stenter temp up down
11.Side pin mark
12.Green line
13.Machine stoppage mark
14.Curling
15.Compaction mark
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2.3Washing
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2.3.1-Infrastructure:
Brand Origin Model Quantity
YILMAK Turkey HBM3860F&3860S 4
BRONGO Italy RT500 4
YILMAK Turkey HBM250S 2
BRONGO Italy Lx15 2
CMC HYDRO Korea - 2
ACID WASH M/C China - 1
DIP DYEING M/C China - 1
TRIVENTA Italy - 6
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A garment washing is the technique by which the readymade garments are washed
or partially dyed in order to obtain desirable motif and outlook along with softness/
hand. After making garments from any color are washed to modify the color and
appearance.
Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance.
2.3.2-Purpose of Washing:
By the washing technique, faded/old look, color or tinted affect is created in the
garments which also seem the best touch of garments.
Washing technique creates new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy,
Blasting, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, P. P spray, hand crapping, P.P
spooning etc. This also seems the best touch of garments.
The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a result
the
Garment become size free and become soft hand feel.
When these soft garments are touched then it seems to best touch of garments.
To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and
market developments.
Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of
further shrinkage of the wash garments.
Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also
removed due to washing.
2.3.3-Types of Washing:
Normal wash/Garments wash/Rinse wash
Pigment wash
Caustic wash
Enzyme wash (Bio wash &Bio polishing)
Stone wash
Bleach wash (Ice wash& snow wash)
Stone Enzyme wash
Acid wash
Silicon wash
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2.3.4-WASHING PROCESS OF NORMAL / GARMENT WASH:
The Normal/Garment washing process of batch of 70 kg Twill/Canvas Garments are
described below:
First Step:
Lot size: -....................... 70 kg Twill/Canvas Garment.
Add water at L: R = 1: 8-10.............. 560 - 700Liter.
Machine Running.
Add detergent at 0.5 gm / liter ............ 280-350 gm.
Temperature........... Sometime cold & sometime 40°c to 60°c.
Time .............................. 5 to 10 minutes.
Drop the liquor.
Cold wash
Second Step:
Add water at L: R = 1: 6 ......... 420 liter.
Washing machine running.
Add Flax softener at 0.6 gm / liter.... 252 gm.
Add Acetic Acid at 0.5 gm / liter ...... 210 gm.
Time................................... 5 to 10 minutes. Drop the liquor.
Unload the Garments on trolley.
Third Step: Hydro extractor machine:
Hydro-extraction the garments to remove excess water from the washed
Garments.
Fourth Step: Steam Dryer/Gas Dryer:
Load on steam dryer - 50 kg.
Temperature - 60°c - 70°c.Time - 40 - 50 min for dry.
Time - 10 - 15 min for cold dry.
Load on gas dryer - 50 kg, running the machine.
Temperature: - 70°c - 90°c.
Time: - 30 - 35 min for dry.
Time: - 10 - 15 min for cold dry.
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Fifth Step:
After drying it will be quality checking and good quality Garments will be delivery to
Garments factory.
2.3.5-ACID WASH PROCESS:
A processor Acid wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Trouser as mentioned below:-
First Step: - Pretreatment/Desiring.
Add water at L: R = 1: 10 ............ 600 liter.
Start Machine.
Add desiring agent at 1 gm/liter ... 600 gms.
Add detergent at 1 gm/liter........... 600 gms.
Temperature............................. 60°c.
Time........................... 20 min.
Drop the liquor.
Rinse one for 3 minutes (cold).
Second Step: - Hot wash
Add water at L: R = 1: 10 ......... 600 liter.
Temperature............................. 60°c.
Time.......................................... 5 min.
Drop the liquor.
Here hot wash is used to remove the adhering materials from the garment surface.
Unload the garments from the washing m/c in the trolley.
Load the pretreated garments in the dryer m/c.
Dry the garment completely & unload the garments.
The pumice stones used for acid wash need to pre-treat in the following chemical
solution:-
Water ..................... 100 liter.
Potassium per manganite.............. 1000 gms.
Phosphoric Acid....................... 250 grms.
Stir the solution in a stainless steel tub with dry pumice stone.
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Soak the stones with the chemical solution 10 to 15 minutes.
The stones will pick up the solution. Then the soaked stones are dried in the open
air for.......... 2 to 3 hrs.
Then pre-treated garment 30 to 40 kg per batch load in the dry washing machine.
Load the per-treated stones (about 50 kg) in washing machine.
Start machine running for each batch..... 7 to 10 min.
Stop machine running.
Unload the treated garment separately. Pumice stones with P.P. solution hit on
garment surface as a result fading will be developed.
Then load the stones treated garment in another washing machine.
Third Step: - Wash for cleaning
Batch wt ....................................... 70 kg.
Add water atL: R = 1: 8.............. 560 liter.
Add detergent at 1 gm/liter .......... 560 gms.
Temperature ................................. 40°c - 50°c.
Time ........................................ .....10 min.
Drop the liquor.
Here detergent is used to remove the breaking stone dust and chemicals from the
garment surface.
Fourth Step: - Whitening/Neutralization.
Add water at L: R = 1: 8 ..................... 560 liter.
Machine running.
Add Metabisulphite at 5 gm/liter ......... 2800 gms.
Cold temperature.
Time 5 min.
Drop the liquor.
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Fifth Step:-
Add water at L: R = 1: 7.............. 490 liter.
Machine running.
Add Acetic acid at 0.6 gm/liter..... 294 gms.
Add Softener at 1 gm/liter.............. 490 gms.
Then unload the garments.
Sixth Step: - Hydro extractor machine.
Hydro-extractor is used machine to remove excess water from the garments.
Seventh Step: - Dryer machine:
After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying m/c for complete drying.
Eighth Step: - Quality & Delivery:
After drying the garments go to quality checking & rectify washing fault and then
good one
2.3.6-STONE WASH:
A process of stone wash of 60 kg batch of Denim.
Long Pant as mentioned below:
First Step: PRE-TREATMENT/DESIZING:
Add water at L: R = 1: 10 ............ 600 liter.
Start Machine.
Add desiring agent at 1 gm/liter ... 600 gms.
Add detergent at 1 gm/liter........... 600 gms.
Temperature............................. 60°c.
Time........................... 20 min.
Drop the liquor.
Rinse one for 3 minutes (cold).
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Second Step: - HOT WASH:
Add water at L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 liter.
Temperature.................... 60°c.
Time................................ 5 min.
Third Step: - BLEACHING:
Add water at L: R = 1: 8.................... 480 liter.’
Machine running.
Add bleaching powder (k.c.i) at 10 gm/liter ..................... 4800 gms.
Add soda ash at 5 gm/liter................. 2400 gms.
Pumice stone at ½ vol of garments.
Temperature ....................................... 60°c.
Time (Depend upon the shade) .......... 12 to 15 min.
Drop the liquor.
Rinse twice, each 3 minutes
Fourth Step:-NEUTRALWASH:
Add water at L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 liter.
Add sodium hyposulphite at 3 gm/liter .......... 1620 gms.
Temperature............................. 40°c.
Time (Depend upon the shade) .......... 10 to 12 min.
Drop the liquor.
Rinse one.
Fifth Step: - SOFT WASH:
Add water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 liter.
Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm/liter ..................... 288 gms.
Cationic softener at 1 gm/liter ........................ 480 gms.
Time................................ 5 min.
Drop the liquor.
Unload the garments to trolley
Sixth Step: - Hydro-extractor Machine
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Hydro-extraction the garment to remove excess water from the washed garments.
Seventh Step: - Drying Machine
 Load 40 kg garments.
 Set temperature ....... 75°c to 85°c.
 Time ......................... 35 to 40 min.
 Time ..................... 10 minutes in cold dry.
Eighth Step:
After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydro-
extractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments.
After dryer garment go to quality section for quality checking and good one
delivery.
2.3.7-DIFFERENT TYPECS OF WASHING FAULTS :-
Color shade variation.
Crease Marks.
After wash whole.
Very dark & very light.
Bleach Spot.
Bottom hem & course edge destroy.
Running shading.
Over blasting / low Blasting.
Over grinding / low grinding.
Bad smell due to poor neutralization.
Poor hand feel.
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2.4PRINTING
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2.4.1-Production Infrastructure
Name of the Machine Brand Country
of Origin
Model Capacity Quantity
01.Printing Machine M&R USA Challenger
IIOS-12 C
-14S-
70X100
- 1 Set
USA Sportsman
E6 C-8S
- 1 Set
Sulfet Turkey 12 C-14S-
50 X 70
- 1 Set
02.Dryer - Gas M&R USA 48” - 1 Set
03. Dryer - Electrical Sulfet Turkey 6000 MM 10-14
Tons
1 Set
04. Exposure Machine Sulfet Turkey 65 X 85
MM
- 1 Set
M&R U S A 25 X 33-
36
10 Tons 1 Set
05. Flok Machine ERO Germany - - 2 Sets
06. Fusing Machine DS-
600
- - - 2 Sets
07. Koolmist(Automatic
cool down Spray)
M&R USA - - 1 Set
08.Flat bed Machine - China - - 1 Set
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2.4.2-Different types of printing:
 rubber print
 Hi-Density print
 Revers print
 puff print
 photo print
 pigment print
 metallic print
 flock print
 glitter print
 gel print
 plastisol print
 all over print
 pearl print
 discharge print
 transfer print
 foil transfer print
2.4.3-DESIGN SECTION:
 First Process Receive Artwork From Buyer Via Merchandiser.
 Then Start Work to Make Design from That Artwork.
 After Finishing The Design Work Designer Print Out That in Film Paper. But
Some Time It Is Not Possible To Print The Design From In House Facilities,
Because Of Design Size Or Various Kind Of Dot. That Is Why They out Put
This Kind Of Design from Other places.
 After That Designs Are Ready For Sample Making.
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2.4.4-EXPOSE SECTION:
 First Design Section Provide The Design To Expose Section.
 Then They Bind Screen Frame With Mesh & Glue.
 There Are Various Kind Of Mesh. If Design Is Solid Then Use One Kind Of
Mesh & If It Is Dot /CMYK Print Then Use Another Kind Of Mesh. Mesh
Selected According To Various Type Of Design.
 Next process is Apply an Ointment All over the Screen through a Chemical
Having a Name (TXR) And We Dry It.
 After That Attach The Design Film Over The Screen By A Measurement &
Keep The Screen Middle Of The Expose Machine.
 5/6 Minutes Later need to Bring out the Screen from Expose Machine.
 Then Lifted Design Film From The Screen.
 It Has An Important Subject Between The Screen & Design Film, It Is Light.
Light Can Not Pass over Through The Design Because Of All Design Are
Printed By Black Color.
 After That Wash The Screen With Fresh Water & Dry It.
 Then Apply A Chemical Named Hardener All Over The Screen & Finally The
Screen Is Ready For Sample / Production.
2.4.5-Sample section:
 Sample Supervisor Collect Artwork, Fabrics, Pattern Color & Finally Take
Screens From Expose Section.
 Then Sample Supervisor ensure Design Film, Screens, Color Pattern & All
Measurement according To Artwork.
 Layer Man Lay Fabrics Following the Pattern.
 Then Sample Man Make A Print Superintend By Sample Supervisor.
 Then Start Printing Respectively From Light To Dark Color.
 After Finishing Print Dry The Print Part Fabrics Well.
 Then Show That S/Off To Merchandiser.
 Next part is Maintain Recipe, Lab Test and Many Other Things.
 Then Deliver The Sample To Sewing Sample.
 After Buyer Comments & Approval Start Trail Production.
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2.4.6-BULK PRODUCTION PROCEDURE:
 After Receive Work Order Start PP Meeting For Information, Risk Point, Buyer
Comments, and Quality & Conscious For Any Kind Of Hazard.
 Next Collect All Size Pattern For Design Grading & Position.
 Than Make Plan For Production.
 Most Important Thing To Do Next That Is Color Make.
 Color Master Make Color Following Color Panton & Buyer Requirement.
 After Making Color Buyer Confirm Color Shade & Send The Body to
Laboratory For Wash Test.
 Then They Check Color Shade, Rubbing? Again.
 Then Factory Start Bulk Production According To Approval.
2.4.7-Printing Faults:
I. Print shade
II. Miss print
III. Dot print
IV. Uneven print
V. Printing gap
VI. Screen mark
VII. Side to Side shade
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2.5-Garments
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2.5.1-SEWING INFRASTRUCTURE:
Sewing Machine 700 Sets
FINISHING
Iron 100 Sets
Vacuum Table 100 Sets
SUPPORT
Generator 2 Sets
Covered Van 3 Sets
Thread Sucking Machine 3 Sets
Needle Detector 2 Sets
Gas & Electric Boiler 3 Sets
Washing Machine 2 Sets
Dryer 1 Set
GSM Machine 1 Set
Verivide CAC 60 ( Light Box) ,UK 1 Set
Cutting Machine 7 Sets
Fabric Inspection Table 2 Sets
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2.5.2-Flow chart of Garments Process:
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2.5.3-Sampling department
2.5.3.1-Sequence of Sampling:
1ST Pattern → 2ND Pattern → Counter Sample → Salesman Sample → Photo
Sample → Approval Sample (Size Set, Mock-Up) →Pre- Production Sample →
Production Sample → Shipping Sample.
2.5.3.2-First Pattern:
First pattern is the first physical version of any garment as per the artwork done by
designer and for developer.
Human Mind → Sketch → Paper Pattern → Sample
2.5.3.3-Second Pattern:
Usually designer /developer always ask for some changes to the first pattern.
Second pattern is made as per comments.
2.5.3.4-Counter Sample:
Where first pattern is made on designers artwork, Counter sample is to make not on
designer's artwork, has to follow another sample given by the merchandiser.
2.5.3.5-Salesman Sample:
Salesman sample is made when price is confirmed and orders are on speculation,
usually in l size in all color combinations of expected order. Buyer held a meeting
with its customer and record their response on order quantity per color, size etc. And
finally place order to their vendor.
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2.5.3.6-Photo Sample:
Photo samples are made with actual color and material to be worn by the models on
the event of shooting for catalog.
2.5.3.7-Approval Sample:
In any discrete period of time, whenever it required any revision in the sample, a new
sample is made (sometimes mock-up is workable too) as per new specification. It is
sent to buyer for his approval of the conformity that-the revision is done correctly.
SIZE SET: Consists of 1 pc from each size for each color combination.
MOCK UP: Any part of the garment to make for particular purpose, not complete
garment Pre- Production Sample When material for bulk production arrived, factory
makes a sample with the actual material and sends to buyer.
2.5.3.8-Production Sample:
It is a reference to the buyer that the bulk is being produced as per specifications.
Buyer wants to be assured that correct material is sourced & line workmanship
conformed to the quality level.
2.5.3.9-Shipping Sample:
A sample is kept from every Pre-Shipping inspection to be referred, if required, after
the order has been delivered. Usually for any disputes (e.g. Claim) shipping samples
is important.
2.5.3.10-Responsibilities of sampling department:
 Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
 Checking pattern’s workability.
 Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.
 Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to
QC.
 Minimizing operations and consumption.
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2.5.4-Spreading & Cutting department
2.5.4.1-Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Department:
Marker making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Marker placing on to the lay
↓
Cutting the fabric
↓
Numbering/Stickering
↓
Checking
↓
Sorting and Bundling
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2.5.4.2-Marker making:
Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of
pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires
time, skill and concentration)
 The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is made with every pattern
placed with the “down” direction of the pattern in the same direction.
 This mode is necessary for fabrics that are asymmetric.
 All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the “down” direction, which is usually
toward the left edge (starting point where the legend is written).
 The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but least efficient of the three
nap directions for a marker.
 The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is made where there is no
restriction of which way the pattern are oriented.
 The patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”, placed wherever they fit
best, only making sure that the patterns are on-grain.
 The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most efficient mode yielding the
highest fabric utilization.
 The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient than the
Nap/ One/ Way marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way marker.
 In order to get a better fit between the patterns, alternating sizes of patterns
are oriented in opposite directions.
 This method is yields moderately good fabric utilization, and good quality.
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Factor of Marker making:
 Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
 By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric
consumption as low as possible.
 It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention.
These include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and
attending to details such as drill holes and notches.
 Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company
may save or waste thousands of dollars a year.
Marker Efficiency:
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
2.5.4.4-Spreading:
Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading
 Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.
 Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two
spreading operators (thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking
along both sides of cutting table.
 While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and
machine carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric
in the process.
 Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come
back to starting position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of
spreading machine is called as “dead heading”
Face one way
Nap one way
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Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face spreading
 The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.
 Difficult to achieve manually.
 The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in place by
catcher, at layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held by another catcher
while the fabric is being laid by the machine during it’s return movement also.
Face to face
Nap either way
Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading
 Most time consuming method of spreading.
 The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls
along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180
degree and return back to starting position without.
 Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face.
Face to face
Nap one way
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Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading
 The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls
along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.
 At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180
degree and start spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one
way. There is no dead heading by the machine in this spreading mode.
Face one way
Nap either way
2.5.4.5-Cutting M/C:
Straight Knife
Power system
system
Handle
Sharpening
Cutting blade
Blade guard
Base plate
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 Vertical blade
 Reciprocates up and down
 Corners and curves can be cut accurately
 Most versatile and commonly used
 Blades length - 6 to 14 inches
 Spread depth depends on blade length & adjustable height of the blade
guard
 All of the pieces cut from a lay are identical
2.5.4.6-Stickering:
 Sticker carry details : style no, size, ply no, bundle no., date issued
 Operations may be incorporated for payment purposes, control of work and
facilitating quality control
2.5.4.7-Checking:
Here all the cutting parts have to check properly. Find out the faults and take apart
from here and cut same part of the garment in same shade.
2.5.4.8-Sorting&Bundiling:
 Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a
controlled way
 Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc.
Bundle ticket consists of:
 Order no
 Bundle no
 Quantity
 Style no
 Size
 Section
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2.5.5-Sewing department
Process Flow Chart for Garments Sewing Department:
Product analysis
↓
Set up target for production
↓
Set up machine layout on the basis of target
↓
Set up operator layout on the basis of target
↓
Line balancing
↓
Line setup
↓
Distribution all the processes
↓
Cutting parts received section
↓
Cutting parts distribution to the operator and helper
↓
Complete parts making individually
↓
Line QC check
↓
Line quality audit
↓
Counting output and checking with the target
↓
Final quality check (for each Garment)
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2.5.5.1-Production system:
Progressive bundle system-
 Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
 Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties the bundle and passes
it to the next operator.
 There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the inter-
process work between each operation.
 The work is routed by means of tickets.
 This system is the most widely used system in the garment industry today. It
is used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
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Unit production system
 A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.
 It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move
individual units from work-station to work station for assembly.
 All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line
together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead
conveyor.
 Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the
carrier.
 Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling,
tying and untying, and manually moving garment parts.
 Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and
inventory data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance
data for prompt decision.
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2.5.5.2-Sewing Sequence of T-shirt :
Left side shoulder joining
↓
Neck piping
↓
Piping joining
↓
Right side shoulder joining
↓
Neck Chap tack
↓
Main labeling joining
↓
Sleeve hem
↓
Sleeve joining
↓
Arm hole chap tack
↓
Main label joining
↓
Bottom hem
Sewing Sequence of tank top:
1st shoulder joining
↓
Neck piping
↓
2nd shoulder inside tack
↓
2nd shoulder joining
↓
2nd shoulder outside tack
↓
Label making
↓
Label attaching
↓
Armhole piping
↓
Armhole inside tack
↓
Side seam
↓
Bottom hem
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2.5.5.3-Seams:
 The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.
 To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or
characteristics closely allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.
 The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type
together with the correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and end-
product is of paramount importance.
Classification of seams:
 Superimposed seam
 Lap seam
 Bound seam
 Flat seam
 Edge finishing
2.5.5.4-Stitch classification:
Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
101 Class One thread Basting, or light construction
103 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming
104 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming
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Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses
202 Class One Thread Basting, tacking or repairs
205 Class One Thread Pick stitch - topstitching
301 Class Two threads Seaming multiple plies
304 Class Two thread
Zig-zag stitch; a stretch
lockstitch
306 Class Two thread Blind stitch
315 Class Two threads Three step zig-zag
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501 Class One thread
One needle over edge stitch
for serging / “blanket stitch"
502 Class Two thread
One needle over edge stitch
for serging
503 Class Two thread
Over edge stitch for serging
with crossover on edge of
fabric
504 Class Three thread
Over edge stitch for serging
and light seaming
401
Class
Two
threads
Seaming multiple plies with
moderate
Stretch
404
Class
Two
threads
Topstitching or seaming with
stretch
406
Class
Three
threads
"Bottom cover stitch; a (greater)
stretch
chain stitch
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2.5.6-Quality Assurance department
2.5.6.1-Responsibilities of quality department
 To impart quality in the product.
 To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
 To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
 Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.
 Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw
materials, partially finished components of the garments and completely
finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or
requirements, as well as measuring the garments to check if they meet the
required measurements.
2.5.6.2-Inspection terms:
 Sample: A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a lot
or batch, the units of the sample being selected at random without regards to
their quality. The number of units of a product in the sample is the sample
size.
 Lot or batch: Means ‘Inspection lot’ or ‘Inspection Batch’ that is a collection of
units of a product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected.
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 Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product in a
lot or batch
 Percent defective = Number of defectives
× 100
Number of units inspected
2.5.6.3-Identification of defects:
 Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would
cause the item to be second.
 Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as a
second either because of severity or location.
 Second: A ‘Second’ is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the
salability or serviceability of the item.
Cutting defects:
 Frayed edges
 Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges
 Ply-to-ply fusion
 Single-edge fusion
 Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut
 Notches
 Drills
Sewing defects:
 Needle Damage
 Feed Damage
 Skipped stitches
 Thread breaks
 Broken stitches
 Seam grin
 Seam pucker
 Pleated seams
 Wrong stitch density
 Uneven stitch density
 Staggered stitch
 Improperly formed stitches
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 Oil spots or stains
Seaming defects:
 Incorrect or uneven width of inlay
 Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line
 Insecure back stitching
 Twisted seam
 Mismatched checks or stripes
 Mismatched seam
 Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through the
seam
 Reversed garment part
 Blind stitching showing on the face side
 Wrong seam or stitch type used
 Wrong shade of thread used
Checks for final inspection:
 Open seams
 Skipped stitches
 Cracked stitches
 Stitches/inch
 Uneven seams
 Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams
 Needle and feed cuts
 Unclipped threads and Long ends
 Raw edge
 Snaps, fasteners, buttons
 Labels
 Elastic
 Measurements
 Mends or repairs
 Stripe
 Hems
 Trim
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 Broken needle
 Distortion
2.5.6.4-AQL: Accepted quality level:
 The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling
inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average.
 The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer
indicates will be accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling
procedures to be used.
2.5.7-Finishing & Packaging department
2.5.6.1-About Finishing
 Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final
look.
 In this department each garment undergoes different finishing processes.
 It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the
garment free from defects.
 Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained.
2.5.6.2-Operations performed at finishing stage:
 Thread cutting: Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed
garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut
threads.
 Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains:
Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust,
tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains
 Seam ironing: Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables with vacuum
boards.
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 Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing
equipment’s.
 Tagging and packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and packing
section. It is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the
tagging operators with the appropriate price and brand tags. He also instructs
the tagging operator as to where and how the tag has to be placed. The most
important thing to be kept in mind while placing the tag is to match the size
mentioned on the main label and the size on tag. The step after the tagging is
to pack the garments as per the specification of the buyer.
2.5.6.3-Presentation checking and cartoon packing
First Checkers check the packed garments for the following things:
 Poly bags are as per specification.
 Tags and price stickers are as per specification.
 Packing is secured or not if specified.
 Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.
 Hangers are there or not if specified.
 Garment has been folded as per specification etc.
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following
things are kept in mind during carton packing:
 Number of garments to be packed in one carton.
 Ratio asked for example S:M:L=2:1:1
 Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified.
 Closing the cartons with cello tape.
 Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.
 Writing on carton information like: Store or buyer name, buyer's address,
ratio, net weight of the carton etc.
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2.6-IE
Industrial Engineering - A New Concept of Apparel Engineering
2.6.1-Industrial engineering : It is concerned with the development, improvement,
implementation and evaluation of integrated systems of people, money, knowledge,
information, equipment, energy, materials, analysis and synthesis, as well as the
mathematical, physical and social sciences together with the principles and methods
of engineering design to specify, predict, and evaluate the results to be obtained
from such systems or processes
2.6.2-Nature of the Work Industrial engineers determine the most effective ways
for an organization to use the basic factors of production - people, machines,
materials, information, and energy - to make or process a product or produce a
service. They are the bridge between management goals and operational
performance. They are more concerned with increasing productivity through the
management of people, methods of business organization, and technology than are
engineers in other specialties, who generally work more with products or processes.
To solve organizational, production, and related problems most efficiently, industrial
engineers
 study the product and its requirements
 use mathematical methods to meet product requirements
 design manufacturing and information systems
 develop management control systems for financial planning and cost analysis
 design production planning and control systems to coordinate activities and
control product quality
 design or improve systems for the physical distribution of goods and services
 determine which plant location has the best combination of raw materials
availability, transportation, and costs
 develop wage and salary administration systems and job evaluation programs
2.6.3-SMV
Meaning of the Abbreviation- Standard Minute Value
o It should be expressed always in Minutes
o Time taken by a standard operator to complete any given operation/s
with pre-defined conditions
o BSI 100= 100% performance operator is the standard operator
2.6.4-Uses Of SMV:
1. Making Production Plan
2. Target setting
3. Factory Efficiency Setting
4. Capacity Plan
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2.6.5- I’m attaching some formula for Industrial engineering:-
1. SMV
SMV = Basic time + (Basic time×Allowance)
2. Basic time
Basic time = Observed time × Rating
3. Observed time
Observed time = Total Cycle time / No of cycle
4. Rating
Rating = (Observed Rating ×Standard rating) / Standard rating
5. Daily output
Daily output = Work hour / SMV
6. Efficiency=
𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏×𝑺𝑴𝑽
𝑴𝒂𝒏 𝒑𝒐𝒘𝒆𝒓×𝑴𝒊𝒏𝒖𝒕𝒆
× 𝟏𝟎𝟎
7. Production=
𝑬𝒇𝒇𝒊𝒄𝒆𝒏𝒄𝒚×𝑴𝒂𝒏 𝒑𝒐𝒘𝒆𝒓×𝑴𝒊𝒏𝒖𝒕𝒆
𝑺𝑴𝑽
× 𝟏𝟎𝟎
8. Man power=
𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏×𝑺𝑴𝑽
𝐄𝐟𝐟𝐢𝐜𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐜𝐲×𝑴𝒊𝒏𝒖𝒕𝒆
× 𝟏𝟎𝟎
9. Minute=
𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏×𝑺𝑴𝑽
𝑴𝒂𝒏 𝒑𝒐𝒘𝒆𝒓×𝒆𝒇𝒇𝒊𝒄𝒊𝒆𝒏𝒄𝒚
× 𝟏𝟎𝟎
10.Factory capacity
Factory capacity = (Work hour / SMV) ×Total worker × Working day *
Efficiency
11.CPM
CPM = (Total overhead cost of the month / No of SMV earners Work
minutes) ×Efficiency
12.Required no of operator
Required no of operator = Target daily output / Daily output per operator
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2.7Merchandising
2.7.1-Merchandising denotes all the planned activities to execute and dispatch the
merchandise on time taking into consideration the 4 R’s of expediting Right Cost,
Right Quantity, Right Quality and Right Time.
2.7.2-Functions of Merchandisers:
Costing
Programming.
Yarn Procurement Arrangements.
Production Scheduling (or) Route CARD Drafting.
Accessories arrangement (order placing follow-ups).
Approval of various processor’s sewing operations and finishing processes.
Pattern approval (or) Dummy size set approval.
Size set approval.
Preproduction sample follow-ups.
Pilot run inspection.
In process inspection.
Production controlling.
Identifying shortages and make arrangements for the shortages.
Shortage quantity and quality following quality control procedures.
Following quality assurance procedures.
Maintaining the junior’s activities of in house and sub-contractor units.
Buyer communication.
Communication with production units, processing units and other third party’s
(vendors).
Proper reporting.
Highlighting to the management.
Record maintenance (Records pertaining to merchandising).
Developing samples.
Placement of orders.
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Taking measures for consistent production.
Taking preventive actions to maintain the targeted Performance level in all areas of
merchandising.
Attending meetings with superiors and furnishing the required details about
merchandising.
1. Sample order execution:
After the receipt of the Specification, pertaining to the sample order, the
merchandiser has to understand what the requirements of buyers are. Sometimes
there may be amendments related to any of the specifications in the sample order
sheet. It is the duty of the merchandiser to execute sample order and dispatch on
time the “Right quality.”
2. Costing:
The merchandisers should know the following details while costing.
Yarn cost.
Process cost (Knitting, Bleaching, and Raising etc.)
Rates pertaining to various sewing operations.
CMT(Cut Make Trim) Rate.
Ironing charges, packing charges and accessories rate.
Overheads.
Shortage (or) wastage 3%.
Free on Board (FOB) (Transport charges) 2% to 3%.
Insurance 2%-3%,
Buyers’ agents commission 5%-6%,
Quota rate per garment.
Profit 15% - 20%
3. Programming:
Most probably programming is done by production manager. In some companies it is
done by the merchandisers. The following factors considered in programming.
1. Allowances:
Fabric structure
Dia. fixation (knitting dia., calendaring dia. and compacting dia.)
Process loss (shrinkage etc.)
Size wise piece weight
Extra quantity required
Size wise requirement (dia., colour (or) combination)
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4. Route card Drafting (or) Production Scheduling:
For each and every order Route card (or) Production scheduling is to be done by the
merchandisers. It facilitates the merchandiser to follow up the orders in planned
manner. The following details (or) aspects should be considered in drafting (or)
scheduling.
Design
No. of sewing operations
No.of processes
Despatch date
No. of Components
Type of stitches
Order quantity
Production capacity of the in houses (or) sub-contractors unit and processing units.
Prioritizing the other factors
Targeted dates for various processes (or) stages of merchandising.
Actual finishing date (To cross check the deviation between the planning and actual
performance any stage (or) Process). Targeted dates for all the stages of
merchandising should be decided. Actual dates on which a particular process (or)
operation is actually done should also be entered in production scheduling. The
merchandisers are accountable for the deviation.
5. Accessories arrangements:
Merchandiser has to make arrangements for the timely delivery of the required
accessories to the
concerned units. Accessories requisition slip may be used for requirement purpose.
The merchandiser has to cross check the actual requirements after verifying the
details furnished in accessories requisition form. After the receipt of accessories
quality check will be done.
6. Approvals:
Approval is an authentication of all required conformances related to a process (or)
an operation. The merchandisers should know the quality parameters of various
processes and sewing operations before approvals. There should not heron-
conformities. Evidences for approval should be cross checked to confirm that all the
approvals having made properly.
7. Approval of various processes sewing operations and finishing processes:
The various process of sewing operations and finishing process such as patter
making, cutting,
sewing, ironing will be approved by the technical merchandisers
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8. Pattern approvals:
Patterns should be approved for
Measurement
Style and fit
Allowances
Accuracy of pattern
If there is any non-conformance in pattern that should be corrected before it is used
in production
Pattern approval samples will be received from the concerned units and approved by
the approval
department (or) merchandisers, If there is non-conformance in any size sample
revised sample for that size should be again submitted for approval.
9. Size set approvals:
Size set approvals are made by the approval department or) by the merchandisers.
All the quality
parameters related to various processes, sewing operations have to be cross
checked. The below
mentioned aspects should be considered.
Measurements
Aesthetics
Process quality
GSM
Piece shrinkage
Washing fastness of the piece
Sewing operation quality
Print (or) embroidery position
Labeling instructions.
Size set approval seat will be prepared in triplicate.
Washing fastness of garment should be verified.
Shrinkage in garment can also be verified.
11.Pre-production samples:
This samples should he submitted on time to the concerned person (Buyers,
buyer agents office
buying office). All the quality parameters have to be verified. In case of non-
conformances it will be
mentioned in the approval sheet by the concerned persons. Sometime we
may have to submit the
revised samples after the required rectifications.
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11. Pilot run inspection:
Pilot run denotes the first production garments quality parameters are verified
and preventive
measures can be taken. The follow up team should do pilot run inspection to
identify the various
defects and it will be rectified in production.
12. In process inspection:
In process means in between any process (or) sewing operation (or) any
activities related to execution of an order. We can have procedures for
frequency and adequacy. In case of major non- conformities we have to
highlight the problems of quality at the right time to the right person without
fail. Consistent follow up inspection is a must to confirm that all the required
quality procedures are adopted by the concerned units and preventive actions
are taken to enhance the performance.
13. Production controlling:
Controlling should be right from the operative level also. Efforts should be
taken to control the nonconformities during production. Consistent supervision
is essential to control the non-conformances. Periodical quality check should
be done after an hour.
14. Shortage problem:
The merchandiser has to identify the shortages of any material that is yarn,
fabric, accessories etc. right at the initial stages. After identifying the
shortages steps are to be taken for the arrangement of required materials on
time. In case of shortages also we have to follow the quality control and
quality assurance procedure without fail. Quality of the material should not be
compromised.
15. Following quality control procedures:
In some companies written quality procedures are available in quality manual.
The merchandiser has to know all the procedures of quality control. In all
processes and operations quality procedures should be followed very strictly.
It has to inculcate the importance of procedures to subordinates, in house
units (or) own units, and sub-contractors.
Following quality assurance procedures:
All the required test procedures (as required by the buyer) should be followed
very strictly without
partiality. Evidences for testing (test reports) tested samples, tested swatches,
tested accessories) should be maintained properly. Before cutting, the
merchandiser has to confirm that the concerned unit has got all the required
approvals properly from the authorized person.
16. Monitoring the junior activities:
The merchandiser has to monitor his sub-ordinates. He has to teach to the
subordinates about the quality procedures. He has to give instructions to them
before going for factory visits. He has to discuss the various activities to be
executed on a particular day. The merchandiser has to control the activities of
the subordinates so that the performance of the followed team is good.
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17. Monitoring the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units:
The merchandiser has to monitor the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor
units. He has to confirm that all the quality control procedures and quality assurance
procedures are followed up properly by them (or) not. He has to inculcate the
importance of adopting quality procedures to attain the planned performance level.
18. Buyer communication:
The merchandiser has to go through the faxes coming from buyers and he has to
send reply on time. Sometimes he has to furnish the production status of a particular
order to the concerned buyer on time. The below mentioned are some of the duties
of buyer communication,
Sample execution
Amendments
Comments on the send samples
Sample order sheet
Buyer visit
Production status
Sending sample, swatches, Accessories regarding the approvals.
19. Communication with others:
The merchandiser has to interact with in-house units, sub-contractors, vendors and
job workers of various processing. Through proper interaction only we make
arrangements for the timely supply of the required materials to the concerned
persons. He has to know the production status from various units which will be
helpful in proper follow and proper importing.
20. Proper Reporting:
The merchandiser has to furnish (or) best the report to the right person at the right
time. He has to give reports for the below mentioned activities
Sample execution
Approvals
Testing procedures
Production status
Programming
Shortage details
Inspection details arid status.
Production status for meting etc.
Report from inspection agencies, testing labs
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21. High Lighting:
The merchandiser has to highlight the major problems in merchandising at the right
time without fail. Highlighting will facilitate the superiors to take the necessary steps
to tackle the problems on time. Proper decision is made due to timely highlighting.
22. Record maintenance:
The merchandiser has to maintain quality records pertaining to various buyer orders.
Proper filing should he done, who can utilize the services of subordinates in record
maintenance. The below mentioned are some examples.
Sample details
Sample Inspection Reports
Testing Reports
Evidence of approvals
Proper filing (Buyer wise, order wise)
Pattern Approval sheet/size set approval sheet (copy)
Pilot run Inspection Report
Fabric Inspection report
Mid Inspection Report
Inspection report from buying office, buying agents and inspection agencies.
Test reports from inspection agencies and labs
Production status reports
Production status reports related to meetings
Pre-final inspection reports
Final inspection reports etc.
23. Developing samples:
Some buyers will give specifications (or) diagram (or) patterns from which you may
have to develop samples. Samples may be fabric with required knit structure (or)
garments with required specification. The merchandiser has to consider all the
quality parameters related to the samples to be developed. In case of non-
conformities in the samples developed, revised samples may be send for approval
purpose. It is the duty of the merchandiser to dispatch the developed samples on to
the concerned buyers by means of consistent follow-up.
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24. Placements of orders:
Priority is given to Approved sub-contractors after evaluation (when the production
capacity is not sufficient) order is placed to new manufacturers also orders can be
placed to in-house units also. In some companies, merchandiser is accountable (or)
responsible to find out the right manufacturers after proper evaluation. At the initial
stages small quantity order will be placed. After verifying their performance large
quantity orders will be placed. Yarn may be procured by the concerned unit (or) it
may be supplied by the supplier (the main manufacturer). In case of CMT order after
the confirmation of average piece weight of a particular size, processed fabric is
delivered to the concerned unit by the supplier.
25. Taking measures for consistent production:
It is the duty of the merchandiser to monitor the merchandising activities in
accordance with the production scheduling. He is accountable for the execution of
each and every process (or) an operation within the targeted time. He has to take the
necessary step for the consistent production by tackling the problems in
merchandising. (e.g.)
Quality of yarn
Replacing good quality yarn
Consistent arrangement for fabric
Timely arrangements for the timely supply of accessories.
Shortage quantities follow up.
26. Preventive actions:
Detection of defects is not only the duty of merchandiser. He has to take preventive
actions to eliminate deviations in all the stages of merchandising.
27. Attending meetings with superiors:
Meetings may be conducted for general discussions about order execution (or) for
implementing new systems like ISO (or) it may be a status meeting. In case of
production status meeting the production details about various buyers’ order will be
collected by the merchandiser from different units and will furnished to superiors.
The merchandiser is accountable to answer the various questions raised by the
superiors pertaining to the execution of the allotted orders
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3.Utilities
Water Treatment Shilhoko ( Denmark )
Water Line All SS Pipes & Accessories, to avoid contamination of Iron
Oxide.
Air Compressor BODGE ( Germany )
Boiler Dan Stoker ( Denmark )
Steam Line Schedule Seamless Pipes & Accessories of Spirex (UK &
India )
Generator – Gas Waukesha ( USA )
Generator – Diesel F.G.Willson( UK )
Water Recycling Plant (ETP) Shilhoko (Denmark) and local civil construction)
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4. Maintenance
In the apparel industry, machine maintenance department is one that works silently.
They don’t get recognized much for their work. In the organized garment factories,
maintenance people work closely with Industrial Engineering department when it
comes for shop floor machine maintenance. In many factories management does not
concern about their performance. So machine mechanics just do their job to keep
machine running and always do breakdown maintenance.
A factory can gain substantial benefit by setting up defined work responsibility and
making list of activities to be done by maintenance department other than just
repairing machines when it breakdown.
Some of the tangible benefits of performing given activities well are
Reduced machine breakdown,
Lower maintenance cost
Lower product cost
Improved Machine performance
The maintenance activities can be broadly classified into two major categories, such
as machine breakdown maintenance and preventive maintenance. Main reasons of
frequent machine breakdown in shop floor include lack of maintenance, or use of
spare parts of substandard quality or faculty operations. Breakdown maintenance is
always undesirable because breakdown causes loss of production, man hours and
revenue. Machine breakdown disturbs the production of particular operations and
subsequent operations by delaying feeding.
To improve performance of the machine maintenance (mechanics) department,
factory should introduce preventive maintenance instead of following breakdown
maintenance.
Following activities are necessary to improve machine performance.
Prepare a checklist – Prepare a check list what all things they need to do daily basis.
They should have plan for scheduled machine maintenance plan with other works.
Like, planning for machine requirement, attachment, guides and presser foots
required for next style.
Prepare Maintenance schedule - The first step is setting up the preventive
maintenance program is proper scheduling of the maintenance plan. Make a
database of all types of sewing machines and other machines you have in the
factory. Other machines like cutting machines, pressing tables, irons etc. You must
have machine numbers on each machine types. Keep account of number of
machines operational and number of machines those are not in use.
Make machine maintenance card and hang this cards on each machine to stop
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
87 | P a g e
forgetting and missing checking of any machine on the scheduled date. Include list of
thing to check in the machine maintenance card. See the fig for example.
Improving awareness and motivating maintenance team – In sewing factory
maintenance department involved in providing machine pressure foots, work guides
and attachment. Industrial engineering department need to share style information
and list of machines, attachment and guides required for the upcoming orders with
production schedule of the upcoming orders with maintenance department.
If factory is giving incentive to sewing operators and other staff, maintenance
department need to be included under performance incentive scheme.
Prepare maintenance of records and reports. Accurate recording of the day to day
maintenance work is essential for exercising effective control over the maintenance
program, planning, the replacement and procurement of store and spares.
Initiate making record of machine breakdown time daily, type of machines that got
breakdown, time required to repair or restart the machine. This record will help you
to find top 20% machines that cause 80% of machine breakdown.
4.1-OPERATION INVOLVED in MAINTENANCE:
Setting: Setting is the activities to set or install the machine parts or required
ancillaries. Adjustment also complementary word to setting used for appropriate
setting.
Checking: Checking means investigation of machine condition. It is very important
work in case of maintenance. It is very skilled depends work as successful
maintenance that depends on correct fault detection.
Repairing: Repairing or altering of spares & equipment (if necessary) is to be detected
& necessary measures are taken (repairingalteringsettingadjustment) .
Overhauling: It is the work of maintenance, but not frequent or schedule work. It is
done as per as necessary.
4.2-TYPES of MAINTENANCE:
1. Preventive maintenance.
2. Productive maintenance.
3. Routineschedule maintenance. (cleaning, checking, lubricating)
4. Remedial maintenance.
5. Restorative maintenanceemergency maintenance.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
88 | P a g e
5. Conclusion
In conclusion I can say that this internship report is really essential for every student
of Textile engineering to get idea about textile industry. By completing this report I
have got overall idea of RMG sector and these may be helpful to know about the
technical and management knowledge of garments industry also these sector related
organizations. This is a huge sector and yet to discover the whole.
I want to thank my department Head & my Supervisor for giving me great opportunity
of learning. This Internship program will help me in the further challenges of life. I try
my best to make this project enriched with lots of apparel related documents.
IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD. is really a good experience for me
because every person of there so much helpful and give me the proper methods of
practical learning. So, at last, there is a hope of eradicating all the obstacles and
become the leader of garment industries in near future.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
89 | P a g e
1. www.nhk-ast.com.
2. http://textilecalculation.blogspot.com
3. http://textilelearner.blogspot.com
4. textileapex.blogspot.com
5. www.denimjeans.com
6. http://apparelmerchandisingworld.blogspot.com

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UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ASIA Industrial Attachment Report

  • 1. UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ASIA DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING B.Sc. in Textile Engineering.Exam-2017 Batch-Day (21) Report On INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT (code-411) At Ibrahim Composite Textile Mills Ltd 2No, Dhakessary, Godnail, Narayanganj (From 04 October to 6 December) Supervised By Prof.Dr.Engr.Md.Mashiur Rahman Khan Guest faculty of UNISA & Head Dept of Apparel Engineering,BUTEX Prepared By MOHAMMAD FAKRUL HASAN ID: 131-0242-002 Batch-Day (21) UNIVERSITY OF SOUTH ASIA
  • 2. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 2 | P a g e ACKNOWLEDGEMENT At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty Allah to give my strength and ability to complete the industrial training and this report. I have made my life more bountiful. May you name be exalted, honored and glorified. Now I wish to take this excellent opportunity to thank a lot of people who have assisted and inspired my in the completion of our training period. Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman khan my supervisor, to whom I am extremely indebted for his tremendous support and guidance throughout my training period. Being working with him I have not only earned valuable knowledge but was also inspired by his innovativeness which helped enrich my experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable. I would like to thank the management of the IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD for giving me the opportunity to do the industrial training successfully and also their valuable suggestions. My deepest appreciation goes to Mr. Raja, Deputy General Manager, IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD for his permission to conduct my industrial training without which it would be uncompleted. The generous support is greatly appreciated. I would also like to IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD for helping me to complete industrial training successfully. My gratitude also goes to all the employees of IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD for their sincere co-operation, support and valuable advices.
  • 3. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 3 | P a g e IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD one of the leading manufacturers & exporters of a wide range of knitted garments. This company earned a good reputation in the market by manufacturing superior quality products in various designs and in vibrant range of colors. This companies have set all the standards of quality and the satisfaction of the customers is our prime concern. It endeavor to make their customers happy. Here the production process runs from making yarn to fabric and from fabric to finished garment. IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD is engaged in processing raw fabric to finished products and exports these products to different countries. Its factory is situated in 2No, Dhakessary, Godnail, Narayanganj and head office is in Gulshan-1, Dhaka. I worked in the factory and paid occasional visits to the head office in order to cope up with the production process. I worked with almost all the departments; especially in Marketing Department, Import and Export Department and Merchandising Department. After the global financial crisis, customer’s perception has become as a most important and sensitive Issue of companies. It is of course not just important for garments. It is something that needs to be addressed in relation to all companies. This company help me to learn about Knitting, Dyeing, Washing, Printing and Garments. My Industrial training was about all of this sector. I gain lots of practical knowledge from every sector of this company. In Knitting, Dyeing, Washing, Printing and Garments i learned about many kinds of new machinery, many types of chemical and especially many type of fabrics. I also learned from them maintenance policy and when I know from them about their management policy it really was a great experience of my life. I attached almost all details what I gained from this company.
  • 4. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 4 | P a g e Address- Corporate office House no 80(4th floor) Gulshan Avenue , Gulsan-1, Dhaka-1212,Bangladesh. Website-www.ibrahimgroup.net Contact Details- Phone no. 880 2 9886628 8821163 Fax no.880-2-8812724 Email: info@ibrahimgroup.net ,alammohammed04gmail.com hossainazmal086@gmail.com IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD is one of the large groups in Bangladesh and high GDP contributor. This is a large factory with all the facilities to composite yarn. Here the production process runs from making yarn to fabric and from fabric to finished garment. In this age, Bangladesh is flourished with RMG sector where this division has its immense contribution. It has three high capacity garments manufacturing plants where it can produce 24.30 million pieces knit apparels per annum with the help of sophisticated machinery and trained manufacturing team. Their plant and human capabilities allow them to undertake any bulk production of garments in shortest delivery period. Sample lead time is 7 – 10 days. Productions lead time is 60 – 90 days after order confirmation. ICTML.(Apparel Manufacturing Section) The factory has been awarded WRAP, ISO 9001‐ 2000, SEDEX (SMETA) and DISNEY Certificate for its quality products and Compliance Year of Establishment 1986 Business lines Manufacturing and marketing of wide range of knit apparels. Employee Number Management -250 Production -3000 Product T-Shirt, Polo shirt, Sweatshirt, Fleece shirt, Ladies Tops, etc. Production Capacity 775,000 Pcs/Month Export Market Europe, USA, Japan
  • 5. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 5 | P a g e CHAPTER ONE- Introduction...................................................................................................................................... 6 Objectives: ........................................................................................................................................ 7 Limitations: ....................................................................................................................................... 8 CHAPTER TWO- 2.1. Knitting: ..................................................................................................................................10-22 2.2. Dyeing: ....................................................................................................................................23-37 2.3. Washing: .................................................................................................................................38-46 2.4. Printing: ...................................................................................................................................47-51 2.5. Garments: ................................................................................................................................52-74 2.6. IE: .............................................................................................................................................75-76 2.7. Merchandising: ........................................................................................................................77-84 CHAPTER THREE- Utilities: ................................................................................................................................................85 CHAPTER FOUR- Maintenance: ..................................................................................................................................86-87 CHAPTER Five- Conclusion: ..........................................................................................................................................88 Reference: ...........................................................................................................................................89
  • 6. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 6 | P a g e Introduction RMG (Ready Made Garment) is very important and helpful for our Bangladesh. Bangladesh has emerged as a key player in RMG (Ready Made Garment) sector since 1978. Textiles and clothing account for about 85% of total export earnings of Bangladesh. Out of which, 80% comes from the apparel sector which covers the major products of knit and woven shirts, blouses, trousers, skirts, shorts, jackets, sweaters, sports wears and many more casual and fashion items. Starting from Buttons, labels, apparel papers, threads, and all other products are found here. Even services like dying, washing, and ironing are also found in the corners of Industrial areas of Bangladesh. The garment industry of Bangladesh has been the key export division and a main source of foreign exchange for the last 25 years. At present, the country generates about $5 billion worth of products each year by exporting garment. The industry provides employment to about 3 million workers of whom 90% are women. I have completed this report on the basis of all the department of RMG sector such as Merchandising Department, Commercial Department, Production Department, Supply Chain Department, Human Resource Department, and Compliance Department. So by completing this report I get overall idea about RMG sector, so its carry more value than any books. I preferred this attachment in IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD, which is a 100% export oriented knit industry. For continuing the study of internship in the IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD I almost worked all the sections of this company and tried to find out the activities, planning and many other things as well. In context, I have discussed about these things deliberately to let you know about.
  • 7. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 7 | P a g e Objectives  Its documents for future.  To know detail about RMG sector.  Information gathers about commercial.  Getting idea about shipping procedure.  Comparison between class room learning and practical learning.  Knowledge gather about RMG sector related other organization.  To achieve new idea about knit garments manufacturing process.  To focus on the valuable part of Internship Report.  To have skill labor for quality product.  To study the present market composition for the Bangladeshi garment product about Market diversification.  Opportunity of behavioral theory practice in our garments sector.  Regularly behavioral theory practice in garments industry.  To do a merchandising practice in the factory.  Identify the additional services that the existing companies are going to avail.  To relate the use of groupware and collaborative systems with future trends in managers' roles and responsibilities.  To identify merchandising and total production system.  To find the current scenario of backward supply chain status of ICTML.  To find the ways of improving the backward linkage of the supply chain for ICTML.
  • 8. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 8 | P a g e Limitations of the study 1. Unfortunately due to the company’s limitations (business secrecy and confidentiality), I was unable to acquire sufficient information. 2. Personal barriers like inability to understand some official terms; office decorum etc. created a few problems for me. 3. Time was also a limitation. Gathering a huge amount of information during working for only two months was really a difficult job. 4. Merchandiser doesn’t have enough time to give the information elaborately. 5. Lack of organizing chain of command. 6. Lack of instruction book, and any change. They are following traditional business. 7. I may have to suffer for lack of supply chain management. 8. No other garment’s data has been compared with this data. There might be some discrepancies with other factory’s supply chain scenario.
  • 9. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 9 | P a g e 2. Different Section of “IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD” 2.1. Knitting 2.2. Dyeing 2.3. Washing 2.4. Printing 2.5. Garments 2.6. IE 2.7. Merchandising
  • 10. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 10 | P a g e 2.1. Knitting CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE FLAT KNITTING MACHINE AUTO STRIPE KNITTING MACHINE
  • 11. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 11 | P a g e 2.1.1-As a backward linkage knit fabric manufacturing plant comprising of state of the art knitting machines. The plant is capable of producing knit fabrics of different texture & construction like:  Single Jersey.  Interlock.  Pique Polo.  Viscose.  Lycra.  Nylon.  Polyester  1X1 and 2X2 Rib Fabrics.  Pique Fabrics.  Fleece. ICTML use quality yarns for making high quality fabrics to meet up the emerging demand of the buyers. Their plant capacity is 12,000 kg fabrics per day.
  • 12. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 12 | P a g e 2.1.2-Infrastructure Products Type Mechine Dia Mechine Gauge Brand Country of Origin Feeder Quantity S/J With Spandex Attachment 21" 24/48 Pailung - 62 1 Set 22" - 66 1 Set 28" - 84 1 Set 30" - 90 1 Set 32" - 96 1 Set 34" - 102 1 Set 36" - 108 1 Set 38" - 114 1 Set 40" - 102 1 Set 3-Thread Fleece With Lycra Attachment 30" 20/24 Pailung - 90 1 Set Rib & Interlock With Lycra Attachment 32" 18/20/24 Pailung - 64 1 Set 34" - 68 1 Set 38" - 76 1 Set 40" - 80 1 Set Rib With Lycra Attachment 42" 18/20/24 Pailung - 84 1 Set Total 15 Sets Single Jersey Machine Products Type Mechine Dia Mechine Gauge Brand Country of Origin Feeder Quantity S/J,Lycra S/J,single Lacoste, Double Lacoste, Polo pique, Waffle, Jambo pique, Popcone, Herringbone, 26" 24 Fukuhara Japan 84 2 Sets 28" 24 Fukuhara Japan 84 2 Sets 30" 24 Fukuhara Japan 96 2 Sets
  • 13. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 13 | P a g e Two thread fleece,Three thread fleece And any kind of S/J Derivatives as per swatch. 30" 28 Mayer & Cie Germany 96 3 Sets 32" 24 Fukuhara Japan 104 4 Sets 34" 24 Fukuhara Japan 108 5 Sets 34" 28 Mayer & Cie Germany 108 1 Sets 36" 24 Fukuhara Japan 116 3 Sets 38" 24 Fukuhara Japan 120 3 Sets 42" 24 Fukuhara Japan 126 1 Set Total 26 Sets
  • 14. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 14 | P a g e Auto Stripe Machine Products Type Mechine Dia Mechine Gauge Brand Country of Origin Feeder Quantity Engg.Stripe S/J, S/Lac, D/Lac.PK,Terry fleece etc with Lycra 30" 24 Fukuhara Japan 72 2 Sets 6- Colour 34" 24 Fukuhara Japan 84 2 Sets 6- Colour Rib & Interlock Machine Products Type Mechine Dia Mechine Gauge Brand Country of Origin Feeder Quantity IX1 Rib,2X1 Rib,Verigated rib,Lycra rib, Waffle, Thermal,Mash, Platting, Plaing Interlock,And any kind of double jarsey derivatives as per swatch. 30" 18/24 Fukuhara Japan 72 1 Set 34" 16/18/24 Fukuhara Japan 60 1 Set 36" 16/18/24 Fukuhara Japan 64 2 Sets 38" 16/18/24 Fukuhara Japan 68 1 Set 40" 18 Fukuhara Japan 72 1 Set Collar & Cuff Machine Brand Origin Model Needle Color use Production Quantity Shima Seiki Japan SFE- 152 840X2 4 4500 Sets 6
  • 15. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 15 | P a g e 2.1.3-Types of Fabric Used in Knit Garments Manufacturing: There are different types of knitted fabrics, which are vastly used in T-Shirt or polo shirt manufacturing has mentioned in the below with correct fabric image. 1. 100% cotton single jersey fabrics Cotton single jersey fabric 2. Lycra or spandex single jersey fabrics, Lycra single jersey 3. Slub single jersey fabrics, Slub single jersey 4. Burn out single jersey fabrics, Burn out single jersey fabric
  • 16. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 16 | P a g e 5. Grey melange fabrics, Grey melange fabric 6. Grey melange slub fabrics, Grey melange slub fabric 7. 100% cotton double jersey fabrics, Double jersey fabric 8. Fleece fabrics, Fleece fabric
  • 17. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 17 | P a g e 9. French terry fabrics, French terry fabric 10.French terry slub fabrics, Slub french terry 11.French terry fabrics (inside brushed), Frence terry fabric (inside brushed) 12.Design terry fabrics, Design terry fabric
  • 18. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 18 | P a g e 13.Micro or baby terry fabrics, Micro or baby terry 14.Pique fabrics, Pique fabric 15.Pique slub fabrics, Slub pique fabric 16.Lacoste fabrics, Lacoste fabric
  • 19. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 19 | P a g e 17.1×1 Rib fabrics, 1 x 1 Rib fabric 18.2×1 Rib fabrics, 2 x 1 Rib fabric 2.1.4-Yarn count: The yarn count is a numerical expression which defines its fineness or coarseness. It also expresses weather the yarn is thick or thin. A definition is given by the textile institute – “Count is a number which indicates the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.” Types of yarn count: a) Indirect system- English, Metric, Worsted. b) Direct system- Tex, Denier, Lbs/Spindle. Indirect count: The count of yarn expresses the number of length units in one weight unit. Thus higher the count, finer the yarn. The system is generally used for cotton, worsted, linen (wet spun) etc. Direct count: The count of yarn expresses the no. of weight units in one length unit. Thus higher the count, coarser the yarn. The system is generally used for synthetic fibre, jute, silk etc.
  • 20. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 20 | P a g e 2.1.5-Formulas for the determination of production in length – Course/Minute 1. Fabric length = ………………………………… Course/cm 2. Course/Min = No. of feeder X Cylinder speed 3. Stitch density = Course/cm X Wales/cm No. of Wales 4. Fabric width = …………………………. Wales/cm No. of Needle π X Cylinder Dia X Gauge = …………………………… = ……………………………………….. Wales/cm Wales/cm Formulas for the determination of production in weight – Course/min X Yarn length per course 1. Fabric weight = ……………………………………………………………… Yarn count 2. Yarn length per course = Total needle no. of machine X Loop length 3. Total needle no. m/c = π X Cylinder dia X Gauge 2.1.6-Relation between count and GSM are given bellow: A. Single Jersey: 1. 130-150→ 30’s
  • 21. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 21 | P a g e 2. 160-170→ 26’s 3. 180-200→ 24’s (210) 4. 220-240→ 20’s B. P.K./Lacost/1x1 Rib: 1. 150-170→ 34’s 2. 180-200→ 30’s 3. 210-225→ 26’s 4. 230-250→ 24’s 5. 250-270→ 20’s C. 2x1 Rib: 1. 220-230→ 30’s 2. 240-250→ 26’s 3. 260-280→ 24’s D. Interlock 24 G -22 G 1. 40’s→ 220 - 200 2. 34’s→ 250 -230 3. 30’s→ 260 -240 4. 26’s→ 275 -260 E. S/J with Lycra 5%: 1. 150-160→ 34’s 2. 170-190→ 30’s 3. 200-210→ 26’s 4. 220-240→ 24’s F. Fleece: 1. 250→ 20,30’s (Ratio 20:80) 2. 300→ 10, 26’s (Ratio 30:70)
  • 22. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 22 | P a g e 2.1.7-Faults seen during knitting the fabric: 1. Yarn dust, 2. Set-up, 3. Loop mark, 4. Needle break, 5. Oil spot, 6. Thick and thin place, 7. Mix yarn or Lot mix, 8. Hole, 9. Lycra out, 10.Yarn contamination, 11.Yarn missing, 12.Tara fault (Star). 13.Lycra Drop 14.Neps 15.Slub
  • 23. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 23 | P a g e 2.2. Dyeing DYEING MACHINES STENTER MACHINE COMPACTING MACHINE
  • 24. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 24 | P a g e 2.2.1-ICTML & Printing (Pvt.) Ltd. is a Bangladesh-Denmark joint venture company. The main object of the company is to produce world class knit dyed fabrics for the export oriented garments factories in Bangladesh. World class branded machines have been installed for production, to dye and finish a various range of fabrics including Single Jersey, Interlock, Pique Polo and Rib. In addition, we are able to dye more sophisticated fabrics such as Viscose /Lycra, Nylon /Lycra, 100% Polyester, and offer enzyme washing. Our Dyes /chemicals are of European origin including Dyester, Benzema and Ciba from Switzerland. The Dyeing capacity of the company is 20 (Twenty) tons per day. The factory has been awarded Oeko Tex certificate for its quality products. The Company has a water treatment and recycling unit that attenuates the environmental input of dyeing processes by lowering the content of COD and BOD in the sewage water. 2.2.2-DYEING INFRASTRUCTURE PRODUCTION MACHINE Name of the Machine Brand Country of Origin Model Capacity Quantity 01. Dyeing Machine – HP (Controlled by PLC & Office Computer) Thies Germany Eco soft 1250 Kgs 1 Set Eco soft 1000 Kgs 1 Set Eco soft 500 Kgs 1 Set Roto steam 375 Kgs 3 Sets Luft Roto 2000 lbs 1 Set Eco soft 1500 Kgs 1 Set Eco soft 500 Kgs 1 Set Eco soft 50 Kgs 1 Set Jet HT 500 Kgs 1 Set Jet HT 300 Kgs 1 Set Eco soft 25 Kgs 1 Set Eco soft 30 Kgs 3 Sets Eco soft 70 Kgs 1 Set Tong Geng Taiwan NUV 1500 Kgs 1 Set NUV 1200 Kgs 1 Set Fongs Hong Kong Eco-6 170 Kgs 1 Set Scoll Germany - 50 Kgs 1 Set MCS Italy - 600 Kgs 1 Set MCS Italy - 400 Kgs 1 Set
  • 25. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 25 | P a g e 02. Dewatering and Detwisting Bianco Italy S.Padder 10-12 Tons 1 Set 03. Dryer (Tension Less, Air Vibration type) Salvade Italy AMV 10-14 Tons 1 Set 04. Calendar Helliot France - 10 Tons 1 Set 05. Compector Tube Tex U S A 60” Pak Nit II Delta Plus SP Folding 10 Tons 1 Set 06. Slitting Bianco Italy S.Padder 10-12 Tons 2 Sets 07. Stenter IL Sung Korea 8 Chamber 16 Tons 2 Sets 08. Compector Ferraro Italy Comptex- RC-2500 8 Tons 1 Set Lafer Italy Pin chain 10 Tons 1 Set 09.Ceramic Brush Sueding Machine Mario Crosta Italy HS-TS 6 Tons 1 Set 10.Raising Machine Torres - PP128 - 1 Set 11.Shareing Machine Torres - T 148 - 1 Set 12.Emerizing Comet - Pegaso X11 - 1 Set
  • 26. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 26 | P a g e LABORATORY Spectro Photometer. Datacolor (USA) Aliba Nuance Datacolor (USA) Lab Dyeing Mc (NTP) Denmark Lab Dyeing Mc (HTP) Labtech ( Taiwan ) Washcator with Trumble Dryer James H. Heal (England) Washing Mc with Trumble Dryer Whirlpool ( USA ) Abrasion Tester Martindle ( England ) Incubator Martindle ( England ) Crock Meter James H. Heal (England) Pilling Tester Orbitor (England) Auto Solution Preparation Tools Denmark & UK . Light Box Verivide ( USA ) Crokemeter, Hygrometer, Rubbing Tester, Washer, Dryer & Other Standard accessories.
  • 27. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 27 | P a g e 2.2.3-Formula Stock Solution: W=Water D=Dyes .001%=100W+.001gmD (Solid) =99.999W+.001gmD (Liquid) .01%=100W+.01gmD (Solid) =99.99W+.01gmD (Liquid) .1%=100W+.1gmD (Solid) =99.9W+.1gmD (Liquid) .5%=100W+.5gmD (Solid) =99.5W+.5gmD (Liquid) 1%=100W+1gmD (Solid) =99W+1gmD (Liquid) 2%=100W+2gmD (Solid) =98W+2gmD (Liquid) 3%=100W+3gmD (Solid) =97W+3gmD (Liquid) 4%=100W+4gmD (Solid) =96W+4gmD (Liquid)
  • 28. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 28 | P a g e Amount of Dyes: Amount of dyes= 𝑭𝒂𝒃𝒓𝒊𝒄 𝒘𝒕×𝑺𝒉𝒂𝒅𝒆% 𝑺𝒕𝒐𝒄𝒌 𝑺𝒐𝒍𝒖𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏% Total liquor: Total liquor=Fabric wt × M:L Solid salt: Solid salt= 𝑻𝒐𝒕𝒂𝒍 𝒍𝒊𝒒𝒖𝒐𝒓×𝒈/𝒍 𝟏𝟎𝟎𝟎 Salt soln: Salt soln=𝑆𝑜𝑙𝑖𝑑 𝑠𝑎𝑙𝑡 25%⁄ Soda is always 25% of Salt.
  • 29. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 29 | P a g e 2.2.4-Flow chart: Marketing ↓ Lab dip ↓ Lab dip approval ↓ Sample production ↓ Sample approval & Order for bulk production ↓ Knitting ↓ Sample production according to buyer recommendation ↓ Bulk knitting production ↓ Batching ↓ Pre-treatment ↓ Dyeing ↓ Finishing ↓ Packing ↓ RFD ↓ Garment section
  • 30. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 30 | P a g e 2.2.5-Production Parameters: pH P H during H 2 O 2 bleaching: 9.2-12 P H during reactive dyeing: 10-11.5 P H during disperse dyeing: 4.5-5.5 Temperature: For cotton scouring: 95° C-98°C For cotton cold wash: 30° 0 -40°C For cotton hot wash: 70° 0 -80°C For cotton acid wash: 60° 0 -70°C For cotton dyeing: 80°-90°C (For hot brand) 60°C (For cold brand) Polyester dyeing: 100° -130°C
  • 31. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 31 | P a g e Time: For Scouring: 45-60 minutes For Disperses dyeing 40-80 minutes. M: L ratio: For reactive dyeing M: L ratio maintained between1:6 to 1:10. Reel speed of machine: The reel speed of fabric is calculated from following formula – Reel speed = Fabric weight in Kg × 1000 m/min Fabric GSM × Fabric width in m × No. of chamber × Cycle time Process wise fabric wastage: When a fabric comes for production then some fabric allowance is added with actual amount of fabric for the further process losses. These are: Process Loss % Scouring & bleaching 3-4 Enzyme wash 6-8 Dyeing 2-3 Finishing 5
  • 32. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 32 | P a g e Therefore considering the above process losses, before knitting 15-20% allowance is added with the actual requirement of fabric. Hardness: It is measured by hardness measurement stripe & titration process Hardness check points Requirements 1) Line water 2) Dye bath 3) Salt/soda Less than 30 ppm 2.2.5-Washing for colored fabrics: The colored fabrics, to be washed is loaded in the machine required amount of water is taken. Detergents added & washing continued at 80 0 C for 20 minutes. Cold washing
  • 33. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 33 | P a g e Scouring-bleaching: Fabric, to be scoured is loaded in the machine required amount of water is loaded washing agent detergent is added Steam pipes are on & scouring agents (i.e., caustic soda/ soda ash) added at 60 0 C & then temp. reaches at 70 0 C Then H 2 0 2 is added. Temperature is then raised to 98 0 C & the process is then carried out for 45- 60 minutes depending on the requirements. The liquors are then drained. Then wash with detergent at 98 0 C for 5 min. Then cold wash, at 35 0 -45 0 C & acid wash, at 60 0 -70 0 C is done.
  • 34. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 34 | P a g e Dyeing: After acid wash all liquors are drained out. required amounts of water is taken Then leveling agents, anti-creasing agents, de-foaming agents are added according to the requirements. Salts are added and runtime is 15-20 minutes. Steam pipes are on & after 10-15 minutes dyes are added Then soda ash, after another 35minutes. Then the temperature is raised slowly up to the mark. The process is carried on & samples are taken after every 10 minutes to match with the target shade. It continues until shade matching. If the sample is matched, then the liquor is drained out. Then hot wash at 50 0 C. Wash with washing agent for 5 minutes. Acid wash at 50 0 C is done. Fixing agent is added at 45 0 C for 15 minutes. Then softener is added at 45 0 C for 15 minutes. 2.2.6-Working Procedure of Stenter Machine: The fabric is collected from the batcher to the stray and then it is passed through the
  • 35. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 35 | P a g e paddlers where the finishes are applied and sometimes shade variation is corrected. The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straightener) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretching of the pins are greater than the clips. These clips and pins are joined to endless chain. There are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air. The circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers are provided to stretch the warp yarn. After stenting we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch. The speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber. Temperature is adjusted that according to the fabric as for, 1. PC 210 c 2. Cotton 110-130 c After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c. 2.2.7-Stenter Machines use for: 1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for Lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric. 2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter. 3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter. 4. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled. 5. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter. 6. Spatiality controlled by the stenter. 7. GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter. 8. Fabric is dried by the stentering process. 9. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled. 10.Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the stenter. 2.2.8-Working Procedure of Tubular Compactor: The treatment of knit fabrics in tubular form on the Tubular compactor meets the exacting standards set by customers so that garment stitched from the fabric finished on this machine will yield the lowest residual shrinkage values. 1. Width control through a step less adjustable special tubular fabric spreader driven by variable speed motor for distortion-free fabric guidance. 2. Steaming with a condensate-free steam box which is easily operated and completely made from stainless steel.
  • 36. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 36 | P a g e 3. Compacting through two Nomex felt belts. 4. Calendaring while passing between the felt belt and the heated shrinking rollers. 5. Precision plaiting with automatic platform level adjustment controlled by folded fabric height. Alternatively, a fabric rolling system can be provided. At the fabric delivery, the machine is equipped with a precision plaiting device with its platform. The height of the platform is controlled automatically and is adjustable according to the plaited fabric height. An optical fabric density measuring sensor can provide the means to automatically control the compaction of a tubular compactor to achieve the desired course count. An automatic compaction control system based on density measurement and control will:  Eliminate over- and under-weight fabric.  Reduce or eliminate punch-weight measurements.  Provide consistent results from all operators.  Result in uniform fabric, seam-to-seam.  Yield predictable residual shrinkage. 2.2.9-Compactor Machine Use for: Compactor is important machine in knit fabric finishing process. There are a lot of technical work which are done by compactor machine. The works are done by compactor machine are pointed out below: 1. GSM control of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is increased and fabric width is decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric width is increased. 2. Control shrinkage 3. Twisting control 4. Increase smoothness of fabric 5. Heat setting is done of fabric etc.
  • 37. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 37 | P a g e 2.2.10-Faults Dyeing Faults: 1. Shade 2. Uneven 3. Meter to Meter Shade variation 4. Roll to Roll shade variation 5. Side to Side shade variation 6. Color spot 7. Chemical stain 8. Softener spot 9. Color crease 10.Fabric strength 11.Loop out 12.Dyeing hole 13.Contrast problem 14.Fastness problem 15.Excess fabric cutting Finishing Faults: 1. Dirty/Iron/Insect spot 2. Dia variation 3. Uneven GSM 4. Fabric hand fell 5. Water spot 6. Rubbing fastness 7. Finishing machine shinning 8. Wrong slitting 9. Bowing 10.Stenter temp up down 11.Side pin mark 12.Green line 13.Machine stoppage mark 14.Curling 15.Compaction mark
  • 38. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 38 | P a g e 2.3Washing
  • 39. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 39 | P a g e 2.3.1-Infrastructure: Brand Origin Model Quantity YILMAK Turkey HBM3860F&3860S 4 BRONGO Italy RT500 4 YILMAK Turkey HBM250S 2 BRONGO Italy Lx15 2 CMC HYDRO Korea - 2 ACID WASH M/C China - 1 DIP DYEING M/C China - 1 TRIVENTA Italy - 6
  • 40. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 40 | P a g e A garment washing is the technique by which the readymade garments are washed or partially dyed in order to obtain desirable motif and outlook along with softness/ hand. After making garments from any color are washed to modify the color and appearance. Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. 2.3.2-Purpose of Washing: By the washing technique, faded/old look, color or tinted affect is created in the garments which also seem the best touch of garments. Washing technique creates new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, Blasting, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, P. P spray, hand crapping, P.P spooning etc. This also seems the best touch of garments. The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a result the Garment become size free and become soft hand feel. When these soft garments are touched then it seems to best touch of garments. To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and market developments. Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further shrinkage of the wash garments. Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also removed due to washing. 2.3.3-Types of Washing: Normal wash/Garments wash/Rinse wash Pigment wash Caustic wash Enzyme wash (Bio wash &Bio polishing) Stone wash Bleach wash (Ice wash& snow wash) Stone Enzyme wash Acid wash Silicon wash
  • 41. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 41 | P a g e 2.3.4-WASHING PROCESS OF NORMAL / GARMENT WASH: The Normal/Garment washing process of batch of 70 kg Twill/Canvas Garments are described below: First Step: Lot size: -....................... 70 kg Twill/Canvas Garment. Add water at L: R = 1: 8-10.............. 560 - 700Liter. Machine Running. Add detergent at 0.5 gm / liter ............ 280-350 gm. Temperature........... Sometime cold & sometime 40°c to 60°c. Time .............................. 5 to 10 minutes. Drop the liquor. Cold wash Second Step: Add water at L: R = 1: 6 ......... 420 liter. Washing machine running. Add Flax softener at 0.6 gm / liter.... 252 gm. Add Acetic Acid at 0.5 gm / liter ...... 210 gm. Time................................... 5 to 10 minutes. Drop the liquor. Unload the Garments on trolley. Third Step: Hydro extractor machine: Hydro-extraction the garments to remove excess water from the washed Garments. Fourth Step: Steam Dryer/Gas Dryer: Load on steam dryer - 50 kg. Temperature - 60°c - 70°c.Time - 40 - 50 min for dry. Time - 10 - 15 min for cold dry. Load on gas dryer - 50 kg, running the machine. Temperature: - 70°c - 90°c. Time: - 30 - 35 min for dry. Time: - 10 - 15 min for cold dry.
  • 42. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 42 | P a g e Fifth Step: After drying it will be quality checking and good quality Garments will be delivery to Garments factory. 2.3.5-ACID WASH PROCESS: A processor Acid wash of 60 kg batch of Denim Trouser as mentioned below:- First Step: - Pretreatment/Desiring. Add water at L: R = 1: 10 ............ 600 liter. Start Machine. Add desiring agent at 1 gm/liter ... 600 gms. Add detergent at 1 gm/liter........... 600 gms. Temperature............................. 60°c. Time........................... 20 min. Drop the liquor. Rinse one for 3 minutes (cold). Second Step: - Hot wash Add water at L: R = 1: 10 ......... 600 liter. Temperature............................. 60°c. Time.......................................... 5 min. Drop the liquor. Here hot wash is used to remove the adhering materials from the garment surface. Unload the garments from the washing m/c in the trolley. Load the pretreated garments in the dryer m/c. Dry the garment completely & unload the garments. The pumice stones used for acid wash need to pre-treat in the following chemical solution:- Water ..................... 100 liter. Potassium per manganite.............. 1000 gms. Phosphoric Acid....................... 250 grms. Stir the solution in a stainless steel tub with dry pumice stone.
  • 43. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 43 | P a g e Soak the stones with the chemical solution 10 to 15 minutes. The stones will pick up the solution. Then the soaked stones are dried in the open air for.......... 2 to 3 hrs. Then pre-treated garment 30 to 40 kg per batch load in the dry washing machine. Load the per-treated stones (about 50 kg) in washing machine. Start machine running for each batch..... 7 to 10 min. Stop machine running. Unload the treated garment separately. Pumice stones with P.P. solution hit on garment surface as a result fading will be developed. Then load the stones treated garment in another washing machine. Third Step: - Wash for cleaning Batch wt ....................................... 70 kg. Add water atL: R = 1: 8.............. 560 liter. Add detergent at 1 gm/liter .......... 560 gms. Temperature ................................. 40°c - 50°c. Time ........................................ .....10 min. Drop the liquor. Here detergent is used to remove the breaking stone dust and chemicals from the garment surface. Fourth Step: - Whitening/Neutralization. Add water at L: R = 1: 8 ..................... 560 liter. Machine running. Add Metabisulphite at 5 gm/liter ......... 2800 gms. Cold temperature. Time 5 min. Drop the liquor.
  • 44. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 44 | P a g e Fifth Step:- Add water at L: R = 1: 7.............. 490 liter. Machine running. Add Acetic acid at 0.6 gm/liter..... 294 gms. Add Softener at 1 gm/liter.............. 490 gms. Then unload the garments. Sixth Step: - Hydro extractor machine. Hydro-extractor is used machine to remove excess water from the garments. Seventh Step: - Dryer machine: After hydro extraction the garments are sent to drying m/c for complete drying. Eighth Step: - Quality & Delivery: After drying the garments go to quality checking & rectify washing fault and then good one 2.3.6-STONE WASH: A process of stone wash of 60 kg batch of Denim. Long Pant as mentioned below: First Step: PRE-TREATMENT/DESIZING: Add water at L: R = 1: 10 ............ 600 liter. Start Machine. Add desiring agent at 1 gm/liter ... 600 gms. Add detergent at 1 gm/liter........... 600 gms. Temperature............................. 60°c. Time........................... 20 min. Drop the liquor. Rinse one for 3 minutes (cold).
  • 45. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 45 | P a g e Second Step: - HOT WASH: Add water at L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 liter. Temperature.................... 60°c. Time................................ 5 min. Third Step: - BLEACHING: Add water at L: R = 1: 8.................... 480 liter.’ Machine running. Add bleaching powder (k.c.i) at 10 gm/liter ..................... 4800 gms. Add soda ash at 5 gm/liter................. 2400 gms. Pumice stone at ½ vol of garments. Temperature ....................................... 60°c. Time (Depend upon the shade) .......... 12 to 15 min. Drop the liquor. Rinse twice, each 3 minutes Fourth Step:-NEUTRALWASH: Add water at L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 liter. Add sodium hyposulphite at 3 gm/liter .......... 1620 gms. Temperature............................. 40°c. Time (Depend upon the shade) .......... 10 to 12 min. Drop the liquor. Rinse one. Fifth Step: - SOFT WASH: Add water at L: R = 1: 8.............. 480 liter. Add Acetic Acid at 0.6 gm/liter ..................... 288 gms. Cationic softener at 1 gm/liter ........................ 480 gms. Time................................ 5 min. Drop the liquor. Unload the garments to trolley Sixth Step: - Hydro-extractor Machine
  • 46. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 46 | P a g e Hydro-extraction the garment to remove excess water from the washed garments. Seventh Step: - Drying Machine  Load 40 kg garments.  Set temperature ....... 75°c to 85°c.  Time ......................... 35 to 40 min.  Time ..................... 10 minutes in cold dry. Eighth Step: After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydro- extractor machine to remove excess water from the washed garments. After dryer garment go to quality section for quality checking and good one delivery. 2.3.7-DIFFERENT TYPECS OF WASHING FAULTS :- Color shade variation. Crease Marks. After wash whole. Very dark & very light. Bleach Spot. Bottom hem & course edge destroy. Running shading. Over blasting / low Blasting. Over grinding / low grinding. Bad smell due to poor neutralization. Poor hand feel.
  • 47. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 47 | P a g e 2.4PRINTING
  • 48. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 48 | P a g e 2.4.1-Production Infrastructure Name of the Machine Brand Country of Origin Model Capacity Quantity 01.Printing Machine M&R USA Challenger IIOS-12 C -14S- 70X100 - 1 Set USA Sportsman E6 C-8S - 1 Set Sulfet Turkey 12 C-14S- 50 X 70 - 1 Set 02.Dryer - Gas M&R USA 48” - 1 Set 03. Dryer - Electrical Sulfet Turkey 6000 MM 10-14 Tons 1 Set 04. Exposure Machine Sulfet Turkey 65 X 85 MM - 1 Set M&R U S A 25 X 33- 36 10 Tons 1 Set 05. Flok Machine ERO Germany - - 2 Sets 06. Fusing Machine DS- 600 - - - 2 Sets 07. Koolmist(Automatic cool down Spray) M&R USA - - 1 Set 08.Flat bed Machine - China - - 1 Set
  • 49. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 49 | P a g e 2.4.2-Different types of printing:  rubber print  Hi-Density print  Revers print  puff print  photo print  pigment print  metallic print  flock print  glitter print  gel print  plastisol print  all over print  pearl print  discharge print  transfer print  foil transfer print 2.4.3-DESIGN SECTION:  First Process Receive Artwork From Buyer Via Merchandiser.  Then Start Work to Make Design from That Artwork.  After Finishing The Design Work Designer Print Out That in Film Paper. But Some Time It Is Not Possible To Print The Design From In House Facilities, Because Of Design Size Or Various Kind Of Dot. That Is Why They out Put This Kind Of Design from Other places.  After That Designs Are Ready For Sample Making.
  • 50. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 50 | P a g e 2.4.4-EXPOSE SECTION:  First Design Section Provide The Design To Expose Section.  Then They Bind Screen Frame With Mesh & Glue.  There Are Various Kind Of Mesh. If Design Is Solid Then Use One Kind Of Mesh & If It Is Dot /CMYK Print Then Use Another Kind Of Mesh. Mesh Selected According To Various Type Of Design.  Next process is Apply an Ointment All over the Screen through a Chemical Having a Name (TXR) And We Dry It.  After That Attach The Design Film Over The Screen By A Measurement & Keep The Screen Middle Of The Expose Machine.  5/6 Minutes Later need to Bring out the Screen from Expose Machine.  Then Lifted Design Film From The Screen.  It Has An Important Subject Between The Screen & Design Film, It Is Light. Light Can Not Pass over Through The Design Because Of All Design Are Printed By Black Color.  After That Wash The Screen With Fresh Water & Dry It.  Then Apply A Chemical Named Hardener All Over The Screen & Finally The Screen Is Ready For Sample / Production. 2.4.5-Sample section:  Sample Supervisor Collect Artwork, Fabrics, Pattern Color & Finally Take Screens From Expose Section.  Then Sample Supervisor ensure Design Film, Screens, Color Pattern & All Measurement according To Artwork.  Layer Man Lay Fabrics Following the Pattern.  Then Sample Man Make A Print Superintend By Sample Supervisor.  Then Start Printing Respectively From Light To Dark Color.  After Finishing Print Dry The Print Part Fabrics Well.  Then Show That S/Off To Merchandiser.  Next part is Maintain Recipe, Lab Test and Many Other Things.  Then Deliver The Sample To Sewing Sample.  After Buyer Comments & Approval Start Trail Production.
  • 51. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 51 | P a g e 2.4.6-BULK PRODUCTION PROCEDURE:  After Receive Work Order Start PP Meeting For Information, Risk Point, Buyer Comments, and Quality & Conscious For Any Kind Of Hazard.  Next Collect All Size Pattern For Design Grading & Position.  Than Make Plan For Production.  Most Important Thing To Do Next That Is Color Make.  Color Master Make Color Following Color Panton & Buyer Requirement.  After Making Color Buyer Confirm Color Shade & Send The Body to Laboratory For Wash Test.  Then They Check Color Shade, Rubbing? Again.  Then Factory Start Bulk Production According To Approval. 2.4.7-Printing Faults: I. Print shade II. Miss print III. Dot print IV. Uneven print V. Printing gap VI. Screen mark VII. Side to Side shade
  • 52. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 52 | P a g e 2.5-Garments
  • 53. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 53 | P a g e 2.5.1-SEWING INFRASTRUCTURE: Sewing Machine 700 Sets FINISHING Iron 100 Sets Vacuum Table 100 Sets SUPPORT Generator 2 Sets Covered Van 3 Sets Thread Sucking Machine 3 Sets Needle Detector 2 Sets Gas & Electric Boiler 3 Sets Washing Machine 2 Sets Dryer 1 Set GSM Machine 1 Set Verivide CAC 60 ( Light Box) ,UK 1 Set Cutting Machine 7 Sets Fabric Inspection Table 2 Sets
  • 54. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 54 | P a g e 2.5.2-Flow chart of Garments Process:
  • 55. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 55 | P a g e 2.5.3-Sampling department 2.5.3.1-Sequence of Sampling: 1ST Pattern → 2ND Pattern → Counter Sample → Salesman Sample → Photo Sample → Approval Sample (Size Set, Mock-Up) →Pre- Production Sample → Production Sample → Shipping Sample. 2.5.3.2-First Pattern: First pattern is the first physical version of any garment as per the artwork done by designer and for developer. Human Mind → Sketch → Paper Pattern → Sample 2.5.3.3-Second Pattern: Usually designer /developer always ask for some changes to the first pattern. Second pattern is made as per comments. 2.5.3.4-Counter Sample: Where first pattern is made on designers artwork, Counter sample is to make not on designer's artwork, has to follow another sample given by the merchandiser. 2.5.3.5-Salesman Sample: Salesman sample is made when price is confirmed and orders are on speculation, usually in l size in all color combinations of expected order. Buyer held a meeting with its customer and record their response on order quantity per color, size etc. And finally place order to their vendor.
  • 56. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 56 | P a g e 2.5.3.6-Photo Sample: Photo samples are made with actual color and material to be worn by the models on the event of shooting for catalog. 2.5.3.7-Approval Sample: In any discrete period of time, whenever it required any revision in the sample, a new sample is made (sometimes mock-up is workable too) as per new specification. It is sent to buyer for his approval of the conformity that-the revision is done correctly. SIZE SET: Consists of 1 pc from each size for each color combination. MOCK UP: Any part of the garment to make for particular purpose, not complete garment Pre- Production Sample When material for bulk production arrived, factory makes a sample with the actual material and sends to buyer. 2.5.3.8-Production Sample: It is a reference to the buyer that the bulk is being produced as per specifications. Buyer wants to be assured that correct material is sourced & line workmanship conformed to the quality level. 2.5.3.9-Shipping Sample: A sample is kept from every Pre-Shipping inspection to be referred, if required, after the order has been delivered. Usually for any disputes (e.g. Claim) shipping samples is important. 2.5.3.10-Responsibilities of sampling department:  Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.  Checking pattern’s workability.  Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.  Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC.  Minimizing operations and consumption.
  • 57. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 57 | P a g e 2.5.4-Spreading & Cutting department 2.5.4.1-Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Department: Marker making ↓ Fabric Spreading ↓ Marker placing on to the lay ↓ Cutting the fabric ↓ Numbering/Stickering ↓ Checking ↓ Sorting and Bundling
  • 58. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 58 | P a g e 2.5.4.2-Marker making: Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)  The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is made with every pattern placed with the “down” direction of the pattern in the same direction.  This mode is necessary for fabrics that are asymmetric.  All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the “down” direction, which is usually toward the left edge (starting point where the legend is written).  The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but least efficient of the three nap directions for a marker.  The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is made where there is no restriction of which way the pattern are oriented.  The patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”, placed wherever they fit best, only making sure that the patterns are on-grain.  The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization.  The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way marker.  In order to get a better fit between the patterns, alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in opposite directions.  This method is yields moderately good fabric utilization, and good quality.
  • 59. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 59 | P a g e Factor of Marker making:  Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.  By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low as possible.  It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such as drill holes and notches.  Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save or waste thousands of dollars a year. Marker Efficiency: Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100% Total area of the marker plan 2.5.4.4-Spreading: Spreading Mode: Nap one way & face one way spreading  Most common spreading method that can also be done manually.  Fabric roll is kept on a roller stand and fabric end is being pulled by two spreading operators (thus unwinding fabric from freely rotating roll) walking along both sides of cutting table.  While using machine, the lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.  Every layer has to start from same end thus spreading machine has to come back to starting position without spreading the fabric. This return movement of spreading machine is called as “dead heading” Face one way Nap one way
  • 60. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 60 | P a g e Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face to face spreading  The quickest spreading method while using spreading machine.  Difficult to achieve manually.  The machine carry the fabric roll while the end is being held in place by catcher, at layer end fabric is not cut just folded and held by another catcher while the fabric is being laid by the machine during it’s return movement also. Face to face Nap either way Spreading Mode: Nap one-way face to face spreading  Most time consuming method of spreading.  The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.  At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and return back to starting position without.  Now from the starting end the second layer is being laid face to face. Face to face Nap one way
  • 61. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 61 | P a g e Spreading Mode: Nap either way & face one way spreading  The lose end of fabric is being held by catcher and machine carries the rolls along table thus unwinding and spreading the fabric in the process.  At layer end the fabric is being cut, turntable rotate the fabric roll by 180 degree and start spreading the second layer from the opposite end face one way. There is no dead heading by the machine in this spreading mode. Face one way Nap either way 2.5.4.5-Cutting M/C: Straight Knife Power system system Handle Sharpening Cutting blade Blade guard Base plate
  • 62. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 62 | P a g e  Vertical blade  Reciprocates up and down  Corners and curves can be cut accurately  Most versatile and commonly used  Blades length - 6 to 14 inches  Spread depth depends on blade length & adjustable height of the blade guard  All of the pieces cut from a lay are identical 2.5.4.6-Stickering:  Sticker carry details : style no, size, ply no, bundle no., date issued  Operations may be incorporated for payment purposes, control of work and facilitating quality control 2.5.4.7-Checking: Here all the cutting parts have to check properly. Find out the faults and take apart from here and cut same part of the garment in same shade. 2.5.4.8-Sorting&Bundiling:  Small batches of garments move from one work station to another in a controlled way  Tens, dozens, 2 dozens, etc. Bundle ticket consists of:  Order no  Bundle no  Quantity  Style no  Size  Section
  • 63. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 63 | P a g e 2.5.5-Sewing department Process Flow Chart for Garments Sewing Department: Product analysis ↓ Set up target for production ↓ Set up machine layout on the basis of target ↓ Set up operator layout on the basis of target ↓ Line balancing ↓ Line setup ↓ Distribution all the processes ↓ Cutting parts received section ↓ Cutting parts distribution to the operator and helper ↓ Complete parts making individually ↓ Line QC check ↓ Line quality audit ↓ Counting output and checking with the target ↓ Final quality check (for each Garment)
  • 64. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 64 | P a g e 2.5.5.1-Production system: Progressive bundle system-  Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.  Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties the bundle and passes it to the next operator.  There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the inter- process work between each operation.  The work is routed by means of tickets.  This system is the most widely used system in the garment industry today. It is used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
  • 65. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 65 | P a g e Unit production system  A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.  It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move individual units from work-station to work station for assembly.  All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.  Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier.  Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling, tying and untying, and manually moving garment parts.  Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and inventory data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for prompt decision.
  • 66. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 66 | P a g e 2.5.5.2-Sewing Sequence of T-shirt : Left side shoulder joining ↓ Neck piping ↓ Piping joining ↓ Right side shoulder joining ↓ Neck Chap tack ↓ Main labeling joining ↓ Sleeve hem ↓ Sleeve joining ↓ Arm hole chap tack ↓ Main label joining ↓ Bottom hem Sewing Sequence of tank top: 1st shoulder joining ↓ Neck piping ↓ 2nd shoulder inside tack ↓ 2nd shoulder joining ↓ 2nd shoulder outside tack ↓ Label making ↓ Label attaching ↓ Armhole piping ↓ Armhole inside tack ↓ Side seam ↓ Bottom hem
  • 67. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 67 | P a g e 2.5.5.3-Seams:  The basic function of a seam is to hold pieces of fabric together.  To perform its function correctly, the seam should have properties or characteristics closely allied to those of the fabrics being sewn.  The careful selection of the most appropriate seam, a suitable stitch type together with the correct thread and machine settings for the fabric and end- product is of paramount importance. Classification of seams:  Superimposed seam  Lap seam  Bound seam  Flat seam  Edge finishing 2.5.5.4-Stitch classification: Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses 101 Class One thread Basting, or light construction 103 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming 104 Class One thread Blind stitch for hemming
  • 68. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 68 | P a g e Diagram Stitch class Thread count Typical uses 202 Class One Thread Basting, tacking or repairs 205 Class One Thread Pick stitch - topstitching 301 Class Two threads Seaming multiple plies 304 Class Two thread Zig-zag stitch; a stretch lockstitch 306 Class Two thread Blind stitch 315 Class Two threads Three step zig-zag
  • 69. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 69 | P a g e 501 Class One thread One needle over edge stitch for serging / “blanket stitch" 502 Class Two thread One needle over edge stitch for serging 503 Class Two thread Over edge stitch for serging with crossover on edge of fabric 504 Class Three thread Over edge stitch for serging and light seaming 401 Class Two threads Seaming multiple plies with moderate Stretch 404 Class Two threads Topstitching or seaming with stretch 406 Class Three threads "Bottom cover stitch; a (greater) stretch chain stitch
  • 70. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 70 | P a g e 2.5.6-Quality Assurance department 2.5.6.1-Responsibilities of quality department  To impart quality in the product.  To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.  To restrict the defects entering into the final product.  Main function of quality department is to carry out inspection.  Inspection can be defined as the visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring the garments to check if they meet the required measurements. 2.5.6.2-Inspection terms:  Sample: A sample consists of one or more units of a product drawn from a lot or batch, the units of the sample being selected at random without regards to their quality. The number of units of a product in the sample is the sample size.  Lot or batch: Means ‘Inspection lot’ or ‘Inspection Batch’ that is a collection of units of a product from which a sample is to be drawn and inspected.
  • 71. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 71 | P a g e  Lot or batch size: The lot or batch size is the number of units of a product in a lot or batch  Percent defective = Number of defectives × 100 Number of units inspected 2.5.6.3-Identification of defects:  Major Defect: A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item to be second.  Minor Defect: A defect that would not cause the product to be termed as a second either because of severity or location.  Second: A ‘Second’ is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the salability or serviceability of the item. Cutting defects:  Frayed edges  Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges  Ply-to-ply fusion  Single-edge fusion  Pattern precision- Under-cut, Over-cut  Notches  Drills Sewing defects:  Needle Damage  Feed Damage  Skipped stitches  Thread breaks  Broken stitches  Seam grin  Seam pucker  Pleated seams  Wrong stitch density  Uneven stitch density  Staggered stitch  Improperly formed stitches
  • 72. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 72 | P a g e  Oil spots or stains Seaming defects:  Incorrect or uneven width of inlay  Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line  Insecure back stitching  Twisted seam  Mismatched checks or stripes  Mismatched seam  Extraneous part caught in a seam, an unrelated piece showing through the seam  Reversed garment part  Blind stitching showing on the face side  Wrong seam or stitch type used  Wrong shade of thread used Checks for final inspection:  Open seams  Skipped stitches  Cracked stitches  Stitches/inch  Uneven seams  Crooked, puckered, curled, pleated seams  Needle and feed cuts  Unclipped threads and Long ends  Raw edge  Snaps, fasteners, buttons  Labels  Elastic  Measurements  Mends or repairs  Stripe  Hems  Trim
  • 73. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 73 | P a g e  Broken needle  Distortion 2.5.6.4-AQL: Accepted quality level:  The AQL is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling inspection can be considered satisfactory as a process average.  The AQL is a designated value of percent defective that the customer indicates will be accepted most of the time by the acceptance sampling procedures to be used. 2.5.7-Finishing & Packaging department 2.5.6.1-About Finishing  Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look.  In this department each garment undergoes different finishing processes.  It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment free from defects.  Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained. 2.5.6.2-Operations performed at finishing stage:  Thread cutting: Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut threads.  Stain removal: Removal of the following type of stains: Oil, yellow, black and paint spots, stains due to color bleeding, ink, rust, tracing marks, yellow stains, and hard stains  Seam ironing: Ironing of garments using steam ironing tables with vacuum boards.
  • 74. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 74 | P a g e  Final finishing: The entire garment is finished using various finishing equipment’s.  Tagging and packing: The pass pieces are brought to the tagging and packing section. It is the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagging operators with the appropriate price and brand tags. He also instructs the tagging operator as to where and how the tag has to be placed. The most important thing to be kept in mind while placing the tag is to match the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag. The step after the tagging is to pack the garments as per the specification of the buyer. 2.5.6.3-Presentation checking and cartoon packing First Checkers check the packed garments for the following things:  Poly bags are as per specification.  Tags and price stickers are as per specification.  Packing is secured or not if specified.  Poly bags should not be soiled and torn.  Hangers are there or not if specified.  Garment has been folded as per specification etc. Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following things are kept in mind during carton packing:  Number of garments to be packed in one carton.  Ratio asked for example S:M:L=2:1:1  Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified.  Closing the cartons with cello tape.  Sealing the cartons with plastic cord.  Writing on carton information like: Store or buyer name, buyer's address, ratio, net weight of the carton etc.
  • 75. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 75 | P a g e 2.6-IE Industrial Engineering - A New Concept of Apparel Engineering 2.6.1-Industrial engineering : It is concerned with the development, improvement, implementation and evaluation of integrated systems of people, money, knowledge, information, equipment, energy, materials, analysis and synthesis, as well as the mathematical, physical and social sciences together with the principles and methods of engineering design to specify, predict, and evaluate the results to be obtained from such systems or processes 2.6.2-Nature of the Work Industrial engineers determine the most effective ways for an organization to use the basic factors of production - people, machines, materials, information, and energy - to make or process a product or produce a service. They are the bridge between management goals and operational performance. They are more concerned with increasing productivity through the management of people, methods of business organization, and technology than are engineers in other specialties, who generally work more with products or processes. To solve organizational, production, and related problems most efficiently, industrial engineers  study the product and its requirements  use mathematical methods to meet product requirements  design manufacturing and information systems  develop management control systems for financial planning and cost analysis  design production planning and control systems to coordinate activities and control product quality  design or improve systems for the physical distribution of goods and services  determine which plant location has the best combination of raw materials availability, transportation, and costs  develop wage and salary administration systems and job evaluation programs 2.6.3-SMV Meaning of the Abbreviation- Standard Minute Value o It should be expressed always in Minutes o Time taken by a standard operator to complete any given operation/s with pre-defined conditions o BSI 100= 100% performance operator is the standard operator 2.6.4-Uses Of SMV: 1. Making Production Plan 2. Target setting 3. Factory Efficiency Setting 4. Capacity Plan
  • 76. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 76 | P a g e 2.6.5- I’m attaching some formula for Industrial engineering:- 1. SMV SMV = Basic time + (Basic time×Allowance) 2. Basic time Basic time = Observed time × Rating 3. Observed time Observed time = Total Cycle time / No of cycle 4. Rating Rating = (Observed Rating ×Standard rating) / Standard rating 5. Daily output Daily output = Work hour / SMV 6. Efficiency= 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏×𝑺𝑴𝑽 𝑴𝒂𝒏 𝒑𝒐𝒘𝒆𝒓×𝑴𝒊𝒏𝒖𝒕𝒆 × 𝟏𝟎𝟎 7. Production= 𝑬𝒇𝒇𝒊𝒄𝒆𝒏𝒄𝒚×𝑴𝒂𝒏 𝒑𝒐𝒘𝒆𝒓×𝑴𝒊𝒏𝒖𝒕𝒆 𝑺𝑴𝑽 × 𝟏𝟎𝟎 8. Man power= 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏×𝑺𝑴𝑽 𝐄𝐟𝐟𝐢𝐜𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐜𝐲×𝑴𝒊𝒏𝒖𝒕𝒆 × 𝟏𝟎𝟎 9. Minute= 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏×𝑺𝑴𝑽 𝑴𝒂𝒏 𝒑𝒐𝒘𝒆𝒓×𝒆𝒇𝒇𝒊𝒄𝒊𝒆𝒏𝒄𝒚 × 𝟏𝟎𝟎 10.Factory capacity Factory capacity = (Work hour / SMV) ×Total worker × Working day * Efficiency 11.CPM CPM = (Total overhead cost of the month / No of SMV earners Work minutes) ×Efficiency 12.Required no of operator Required no of operator = Target daily output / Daily output per operator
  • 77. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 77 | P a g e 2.7Merchandising 2.7.1-Merchandising denotes all the planned activities to execute and dispatch the merchandise on time taking into consideration the 4 R’s of expediting Right Cost, Right Quantity, Right Quality and Right Time. 2.7.2-Functions of Merchandisers: Costing Programming. Yarn Procurement Arrangements. Production Scheduling (or) Route CARD Drafting. Accessories arrangement (order placing follow-ups). Approval of various processor’s sewing operations and finishing processes. Pattern approval (or) Dummy size set approval. Size set approval. Preproduction sample follow-ups. Pilot run inspection. In process inspection. Production controlling. Identifying shortages and make arrangements for the shortages. Shortage quantity and quality following quality control procedures. Following quality assurance procedures. Maintaining the junior’s activities of in house and sub-contractor units. Buyer communication. Communication with production units, processing units and other third party’s (vendors). Proper reporting. Highlighting to the management. Record maintenance (Records pertaining to merchandising). Developing samples. Placement of orders.
  • 78. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 78 | P a g e Taking measures for consistent production. Taking preventive actions to maintain the targeted Performance level in all areas of merchandising. Attending meetings with superiors and furnishing the required details about merchandising. 1. Sample order execution: After the receipt of the Specification, pertaining to the sample order, the merchandiser has to understand what the requirements of buyers are. Sometimes there may be amendments related to any of the specifications in the sample order sheet. It is the duty of the merchandiser to execute sample order and dispatch on time the “Right quality.” 2. Costing: The merchandisers should know the following details while costing. Yarn cost. Process cost (Knitting, Bleaching, and Raising etc.) Rates pertaining to various sewing operations. CMT(Cut Make Trim) Rate. Ironing charges, packing charges and accessories rate. Overheads. Shortage (or) wastage 3%. Free on Board (FOB) (Transport charges) 2% to 3%. Insurance 2%-3%, Buyers’ agents commission 5%-6%, Quota rate per garment. Profit 15% - 20% 3. Programming: Most probably programming is done by production manager. In some companies it is done by the merchandisers. The following factors considered in programming. 1. Allowances: Fabric structure Dia. fixation (knitting dia., calendaring dia. and compacting dia.) Process loss (shrinkage etc.) Size wise piece weight Extra quantity required Size wise requirement (dia., colour (or) combination)
  • 79. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 79 | P a g e 4. Route card Drafting (or) Production Scheduling: For each and every order Route card (or) Production scheduling is to be done by the merchandisers. It facilitates the merchandiser to follow up the orders in planned manner. The following details (or) aspects should be considered in drafting (or) scheduling. Design No. of sewing operations No.of processes Despatch date No. of Components Type of stitches Order quantity Production capacity of the in houses (or) sub-contractors unit and processing units. Prioritizing the other factors Targeted dates for various processes (or) stages of merchandising. Actual finishing date (To cross check the deviation between the planning and actual performance any stage (or) Process). Targeted dates for all the stages of merchandising should be decided. Actual dates on which a particular process (or) operation is actually done should also be entered in production scheduling. The merchandisers are accountable for the deviation. 5. Accessories arrangements: Merchandiser has to make arrangements for the timely delivery of the required accessories to the concerned units. Accessories requisition slip may be used for requirement purpose. The merchandiser has to cross check the actual requirements after verifying the details furnished in accessories requisition form. After the receipt of accessories quality check will be done. 6. Approvals: Approval is an authentication of all required conformances related to a process (or) an operation. The merchandisers should know the quality parameters of various processes and sewing operations before approvals. There should not heron- conformities. Evidences for approval should be cross checked to confirm that all the approvals having made properly. 7. Approval of various processes sewing operations and finishing processes: The various process of sewing operations and finishing process such as patter making, cutting, sewing, ironing will be approved by the technical merchandisers
  • 80. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 80 | P a g e 8. Pattern approvals: Patterns should be approved for Measurement Style and fit Allowances Accuracy of pattern If there is any non-conformance in pattern that should be corrected before it is used in production Pattern approval samples will be received from the concerned units and approved by the approval department (or) merchandisers, If there is non-conformance in any size sample revised sample for that size should be again submitted for approval. 9. Size set approvals: Size set approvals are made by the approval department or) by the merchandisers. All the quality parameters related to various processes, sewing operations have to be cross checked. The below mentioned aspects should be considered. Measurements Aesthetics Process quality GSM Piece shrinkage Washing fastness of the piece Sewing operation quality Print (or) embroidery position Labeling instructions. Size set approval seat will be prepared in triplicate. Washing fastness of garment should be verified. Shrinkage in garment can also be verified. 11.Pre-production samples: This samples should he submitted on time to the concerned person (Buyers, buyer agents office buying office). All the quality parameters have to be verified. In case of non- conformances it will be mentioned in the approval sheet by the concerned persons. Sometime we may have to submit the revised samples after the required rectifications.
  • 81. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 81 | P a g e 11. Pilot run inspection: Pilot run denotes the first production garments quality parameters are verified and preventive measures can be taken. The follow up team should do pilot run inspection to identify the various defects and it will be rectified in production. 12. In process inspection: In process means in between any process (or) sewing operation (or) any activities related to execution of an order. We can have procedures for frequency and adequacy. In case of major non- conformities we have to highlight the problems of quality at the right time to the right person without fail. Consistent follow up inspection is a must to confirm that all the required quality procedures are adopted by the concerned units and preventive actions are taken to enhance the performance. 13. Production controlling: Controlling should be right from the operative level also. Efforts should be taken to control the nonconformities during production. Consistent supervision is essential to control the non-conformances. Periodical quality check should be done after an hour. 14. Shortage problem: The merchandiser has to identify the shortages of any material that is yarn, fabric, accessories etc. right at the initial stages. After identifying the shortages steps are to be taken for the arrangement of required materials on time. In case of shortages also we have to follow the quality control and quality assurance procedure without fail. Quality of the material should not be compromised. 15. Following quality control procedures: In some companies written quality procedures are available in quality manual. The merchandiser has to know all the procedures of quality control. In all processes and operations quality procedures should be followed very strictly. It has to inculcate the importance of procedures to subordinates, in house units (or) own units, and sub-contractors. Following quality assurance procedures: All the required test procedures (as required by the buyer) should be followed very strictly without partiality. Evidences for testing (test reports) tested samples, tested swatches, tested accessories) should be maintained properly. Before cutting, the merchandiser has to confirm that the concerned unit has got all the required approvals properly from the authorized person. 16. Monitoring the junior activities: The merchandiser has to monitor his sub-ordinates. He has to teach to the subordinates about the quality procedures. He has to give instructions to them before going for factory visits. He has to discuss the various activities to be executed on a particular day. The merchandiser has to control the activities of the subordinates so that the performance of the followed team is good.
  • 82. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 82 | P a g e 17. Monitoring the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units: The merchandiser has to monitor the activities of in-house unit (or) sub-contractor units. He has to confirm that all the quality control procedures and quality assurance procedures are followed up properly by them (or) not. He has to inculcate the importance of adopting quality procedures to attain the planned performance level. 18. Buyer communication: The merchandiser has to go through the faxes coming from buyers and he has to send reply on time. Sometimes he has to furnish the production status of a particular order to the concerned buyer on time. The below mentioned are some of the duties of buyer communication, Sample execution Amendments Comments on the send samples Sample order sheet Buyer visit Production status Sending sample, swatches, Accessories regarding the approvals. 19. Communication with others: The merchandiser has to interact with in-house units, sub-contractors, vendors and job workers of various processing. Through proper interaction only we make arrangements for the timely supply of the required materials to the concerned persons. He has to know the production status from various units which will be helpful in proper follow and proper importing. 20. Proper Reporting: The merchandiser has to furnish (or) best the report to the right person at the right time. He has to give reports for the below mentioned activities Sample execution Approvals Testing procedures Production status Programming Shortage details Inspection details arid status. Production status for meting etc. Report from inspection agencies, testing labs
  • 83. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 83 | P a g e 21. High Lighting: The merchandiser has to highlight the major problems in merchandising at the right time without fail. Highlighting will facilitate the superiors to take the necessary steps to tackle the problems on time. Proper decision is made due to timely highlighting. 22. Record maintenance: The merchandiser has to maintain quality records pertaining to various buyer orders. Proper filing should he done, who can utilize the services of subordinates in record maintenance. The below mentioned are some examples. Sample details Sample Inspection Reports Testing Reports Evidence of approvals Proper filing (Buyer wise, order wise) Pattern Approval sheet/size set approval sheet (copy) Pilot run Inspection Report Fabric Inspection report Mid Inspection Report Inspection report from buying office, buying agents and inspection agencies. Test reports from inspection agencies and labs Production status reports Production status reports related to meetings Pre-final inspection reports Final inspection reports etc. 23. Developing samples: Some buyers will give specifications (or) diagram (or) patterns from which you may have to develop samples. Samples may be fabric with required knit structure (or) garments with required specification. The merchandiser has to consider all the quality parameters related to the samples to be developed. In case of non- conformities in the samples developed, revised samples may be send for approval purpose. It is the duty of the merchandiser to dispatch the developed samples on to the concerned buyers by means of consistent follow-up.
  • 84. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 84 | P a g e 24. Placements of orders: Priority is given to Approved sub-contractors after evaluation (when the production capacity is not sufficient) order is placed to new manufacturers also orders can be placed to in-house units also. In some companies, merchandiser is accountable (or) responsible to find out the right manufacturers after proper evaluation. At the initial stages small quantity order will be placed. After verifying their performance large quantity orders will be placed. Yarn may be procured by the concerned unit (or) it may be supplied by the supplier (the main manufacturer). In case of CMT order after the confirmation of average piece weight of a particular size, processed fabric is delivered to the concerned unit by the supplier. 25. Taking measures for consistent production: It is the duty of the merchandiser to monitor the merchandising activities in accordance with the production scheduling. He is accountable for the execution of each and every process (or) an operation within the targeted time. He has to take the necessary step for the consistent production by tackling the problems in merchandising. (e.g.) Quality of yarn Replacing good quality yarn Consistent arrangement for fabric Timely arrangements for the timely supply of accessories. Shortage quantities follow up. 26. Preventive actions: Detection of defects is not only the duty of merchandiser. He has to take preventive actions to eliminate deviations in all the stages of merchandising. 27. Attending meetings with superiors: Meetings may be conducted for general discussions about order execution (or) for implementing new systems like ISO (or) it may be a status meeting. In case of production status meeting the production details about various buyers’ order will be collected by the merchandiser from different units and will furnished to superiors. The merchandiser is accountable to answer the various questions raised by the superiors pertaining to the execution of the allotted orders
  • 85. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 85 | P a g e 3.Utilities Water Treatment Shilhoko ( Denmark ) Water Line All SS Pipes & Accessories, to avoid contamination of Iron Oxide. Air Compressor BODGE ( Germany ) Boiler Dan Stoker ( Denmark ) Steam Line Schedule Seamless Pipes & Accessories of Spirex (UK & India ) Generator – Gas Waukesha ( USA ) Generator – Diesel F.G.Willson( UK ) Water Recycling Plant (ETP) Shilhoko (Denmark) and local civil construction)
  • 86. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 86 | P a g e 4. Maintenance In the apparel industry, machine maintenance department is one that works silently. They don’t get recognized much for their work. In the organized garment factories, maintenance people work closely with Industrial Engineering department when it comes for shop floor machine maintenance. In many factories management does not concern about their performance. So machine mechanics just do their job to keep machine running and always do breakdown maintenance. A factory can gain substantial benefit by setting up defined work responsibility and making list of activities to be done by maintenance department other than just repairing machines when it breakdown. Some of the tangible benefits of performing given activities well are Reduced machine breakdown, Lower maintenance cost Lower product cost Improved Machine performance The maintenance activities can be broadly classified into two major categories, such as machine breakdown maintenance and preventive maintenance. Main reasons of frequent machine breakdown in shop floor include lack of maintenance, or use of spare parts of substandard quality or faculty operations. Breakdown maintenance is always undesirable because breakdown causes loss of production, man hours and revenue. Machine breakdown disturbs the production of particular operations and subsequent operations by delaying feeding. To improve performance of the machine maintenance (mechanics) department, factory should introduce preventive maintenance instead of following breakdown maintenance. Following activities are necessary to improve machine performance. Prepare a checklist – Prepare a check list what all things they need to do daily basis. They should have plan for scheduled machine maintenance plan with other works. Like, planning for machine requirement, attachment, guides and presser foots required for next style. Prepare Maintenance schedule - The first step is setting up the preventive maintenance program is proper scheduling of the maintenance plan. Make a database of all types of sewing machines and other machines you have in the factory. Other machines like cutting machines, pressing tables, irons etc. You must have machine numbers on each machine types. Keep account of number of machines operational and number of machines those are not in use. Make machine maintenance card and hang this cards on each machine to stop
  • 87. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 87 | P a g e forgetting and missing checking of any machine on the scheduled date. Include list of thing to check in the machine maintenance card. See the fig for example. Improving awareness and motivating maintenance team – In sewing factory maintenance department involved in providing machine pressure foots, work guides and attachment. Industrial engineering department need to share style information and list of machines, attachment and guides required for the upcoming orders with production schedule of the upcoming orders with maintenance department. If factory is giving incentive to sewing operators and other staff, maintenance department need to be included under performance incentive scheme. Prepare maintenance of records and reports. Accurate recording of the day to day maintenance work is essential for exercising effective control over the maintenance program, planning, the replacement and procurement of store and spares. Initiate making record of machine breakdown time daily, type of machines that got breakdown, time required to repair or restart the machine. This record will help you to find top 20% machines that cause 80% of machine breakdown. 4.1-OPERATION INVOLVED in MAINTENANCE: Setting: Setting is the activities to set or install the machine parts or required ancillaries. Adjustment also complementary word to setting used for appropriate setting. Checking: Checking means investigation of machine condition. It is very important work in case of maintenance. It is very skilled depends work as successful maintenance that depends on correct fault detection. Repairing: Repairing or altering of spares & equipment (if necessary) is to be detected & necessary measures are taken (repairingalteringsettingadjustment) . Overhauling: It is the work of maintenance, but not frequent or schedule work. It is done as per as necessary. 4.2-TYPES of MAINTENANCE: 1. Preventive maintenance. 2. Productive maintenance. 3. Routineschedule maintenance. (cleaning, checking, lubricating) 4. Remedial maintenance. 5. Restorative maintenanceemergency maintenance.
  • 88. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 88 | P a g e 5. Conclusion In conclusion I can say that this internship report is really essential for every student of Textile engineering to get idea about textile industry. By completing this report I have got overall idea of RMG sector and these may be helpful to know about the technical and management knowledge of garments industry also these sector related organizations. This is a huge sector and yet to discover the whole. I want to thank my department Head & my Supervisor for giving me great opportunity of learning. This Internship program will help me in the further challenges of life. I try my best to make this project enriched with lots of apparel related documents. IBRAHIM COMPOSITE TEXTILE MILLS LTD. is really a good experience for me because every person of there so much helpful and give me the proper methods of practical learning. So, at last, there is a hope of eradicating all the obstacles and become the leader of garment industries in near future.
  • 89. INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT 89 | P a g e 1. www.nhk-ast.com. 2. http://textilecalculation.blogspot.com 3. http://textilelearner.blogspot.com 4. textileapex.blogspot.com 5. www.denimjeans.com 6. http://apparelmerchandisingworld.blogspot.com