Thesis-Different types of sewing faults and their remedies

©Daffodil International University
Faculty of Engineering
Department of Textile Engineering
“Study on different types of sewing faults & their
remedies.”
Course code: TE-4214 Course title: Project (Thesis)
Submitted By:
Md. Rabiul Hossain ID: 121-23-2901
Supervised by:
Mohammad Abdul Baset
Senior Lecturer
This Report Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of
Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering
Advance in Apparel Manufacturing Technology
April, 2016

Declaration
I hereby declare that, this project has been done by me under the supervision of Mohammad
Abdul Baset, Senior Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International
University. I also declare that neither this project nor any part of this project has been
submitted elsewhere for award of any degree or diploma. .
Submitted By
Rabiul Hossain
ID: 121-23-2901
Daffodil International University
i

Letter of Approval
April 18, 2016
To
The Head
102, Shukrabad, Mirpur Road, Dhaka 1207
Subject: Approval of Project Report of B.Sc. in TE Program
Dear Sir
I am just writing to let you know that this project report titled as “Study on different types of
sewing faults & their remedies” has been prepared by the student bearing ID 121-23-2901 is
completed for final evaluation. The whole report is prepared based on the proper investigation
and interruption through critical analysis of empirical data with required belongings. The student
was directly involved in his project activities and the report become vital to spark of many
valuable information for the readers.
Therefore it will highly be appreciated if you kindly accept this project report and consider it for
final evaluation.
Yours Sincerely
Mohammad Abdul Baset
Senior Lecturer
Faculty of Engineering
ii

Acknowledgement
At first I express my heartiest thanks and gratefulness to Almighty Allah for His divine blessing
makes me possible to complete task successfully.
Firstly, my special thanks go to professor Dr. S.M. Mahbub Ul Haque Majumder, Founder
and Professor, Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil Intentional University for his
encouragement and valuable suggestions.
I would like to special thanks professor Dr. Md. Mahabubul Haque, Head, Department of
Textile Engineering, Daffodil Intentional University for his encouragement and valuable
suggestions.
Then I would like to special thanks Mohammad Abdul Baset, Senior Lecturer, Department of
Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University. Deep knowledge & keen interest of my
supervisor in the field of „project‟ influenced me to carry out this project.
I would also like to express my sincere gratuity to Md. Zakir Hossain, Production Manager,
GTA Sports Ltd. Located at „Gohail Bari, Zirani, and Savar Dhaka for allowing me to
complete my project in these factories and also for his useful guidance throughout the course.
I would like to thank my entire course mate in Daffodil International University, who took part
in this discuss while completing the course work.
Above all I thank all the teachers of Textile Engineering Department for their kind inspiration
and help.
Finally, I would like to acknowledge that I remain responsible for the inadequacies and
errors, which doubtlessly remain.
iii

Abstract
Firstly I collected some sewing faults fabric picture from the sewing floor, finishing floor and the
inspection section of “GTA sports Ltd” to complete my project work. Then I separate the
collected pictures of the faults in different categories so that I can analyze the sewing defects very
effectively. After that I targeted to find out the real causes of these faults in the industrial area.
Then I try to analyze them very effectively to find out the track of the source and tried how to
solve those problems.
iv

Table of Content
Declaration……………………………………………………………………………………....i
Letter of Approval……………………………………………………………………………....ii
Acknowledgement……………………………………………………………………………….iii
Abstract…………………………………………………………………………………….….…iv
Table of Content…………………………………………………………………............................v-vi
1. Introduction…………………………………………………………………………….….….1
1.1. Introduction…………………………………………………………………………........2
1.2. Objective of the Study………………………………………………………...…………2
1.3. Limitation of the Study……………………………………….……………...……….….2
2. Literature Review………………………………………………………………….……….…3
2.1. Defects in apparel…………………………………………………………….……….....4
2.2. Types of defects………………………………….……………………………………....4
2.3. Sewing defects, causes & their remedies…………………………...……………………5
2.3.1. Problem of stitch formation……………………………………………..……….…5-13
2.2.2. Problem of pucker……………………………………………….………….…….13-16
2.2.3. Damage of fabric on seam line……………………………………………....……16-17
2.4. Non- sewing faults, causes & their remedies……………………………………..…17-18
3. Experimental Details………………………………..……………………………………....19
3.1. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- TSM-18)…………………………………………20-21
3.2. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- TMV-10)…………………………………………22-23
3.3. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- SQV-10)………………………………………….24-25
3.4. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- GAA-66)…………………………………………26-27
3.5. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- TSM-16)………………………………………….28-29
3.6. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- MH-56)…………………………………………...30-31
3.7. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- KS-23)…………………………………………….32-33
v

4. Result of discussion………………………………………………….……..………………..34
4.1. Discussion result for T-shirt (Style-TSM-18)……………………………………………35
4.2. Discussion result for T- Shirt (Style- TMV-10)……………………………………….…35
4.3. Discussion result for T- Shirt (Style- SQV-10).........................................................…....37
4.4. Discussion result for T- Shirt (Style- GAA-66)………………………………………….38
4.5. Discussion result for T- Shirt (Style- TSM-16)…………………………………………..39
4.6. Discussion result for T- Shirt (Style- MH-56)………………........................................39-40
4.7. Discussion result for T- Shirt (Style- KS-23)……………………………………………40
5. Conclusion …………………………………………………………………………...…...41-42
Reference………………………………………………………………………………………43
vi

Chapter-1
Introduction
1

1.1. Introduction:
Quality of product plays an important role in any industry. If a consumer does not like the quality
of the product then the chances of sales become very less. Today, clothes play a very important
role in the society. They help in creating an impression and define the human being in some
aspects. Therefore it is very important to see to it that garments are made of high quality. In
Textile and Apparel Industry, sewing is one of the major processes in apparel production. It plays
an important role in maintaining the quality of clothes. Maximum faults are arising here which
hamper the total quality of apparel. Hence it is important that all defects have to be avoided during
sewing any apparel. In this paper, various faults or defects that can take place during sewing along
with different remedies or methods to solve these defects are discussed.
1.2. Objective:
In this thesis paper, various faults that can take place during sewing along with different remedies to
solve these defects are discussed.
 To know about different types sewing faults and its remedies.
 To know about thread defects and its remedies.
 To prepare a guide line which will assists the technical person in the relevant field.
 To mention how can increase production efficiency.
1.3. Limitations of the Study:
Besides having many facility and scope there were some limitations too that I faced during project
time. The some limitation is given below:

Possibility of production hampers.

Company rules & regulation.

Insufficient worker support.

Limitation of thesis period.
2

Chapter- 2
Literature Review
3

2.1. Defects in Apparel:
Apparel manufacturing is the last stage of manufacturing before marketing. The entire consumer
wants to get a product which is free of any types of defect. For this reason manufacturer should
be aware about defect of product. In this every stage of manufacturing various types of mistakes
can be occurred.
Defect of apparel can be defined as the absence of desired features in the product or unwanted
feature in products. Defective product is not desired to any man. Defectives products lose its
value in the market. A product may contain different defects.
Another terms near to defect is called reject. A product becomes a reject when it loses its
stability in the market. Rejection of garments is harmful for the manufacturers. A single defect in
the most visible area of a garment may make it reject.
2.2. Types of defects:
There are two main types of defects:
1. Sewing defects
2. Non-Sewing defects
Defects may occur in garments industry produced on mass scale. The sources of defects are
given below:
1. Sewing defects:
Proper appearance & performance of seam related with the following factors-
 Stitch
 Feed system
4

 Proper selection of needle & thread etc.
2. Non-sewing defects:
 Defects due to wrong pattern.
 Defects due to wrong cutting.
 Defects due to poor handling of goods.
 Defects due to oil marks.
 Defects due to wrong ironing/folding/packing.
2.3. Sewing defects, causes & their remedies:
Sewing defect can be classified as three groups:
1. Problem of stitch formation.
2. Seam pucker.
3. Fabric damage along the seam line/stitch line.
2.3.1. Problems of stitch formation:
1. Slipped Stitch
2. Staggered Stitch
3. Unbalanced Stitch
4. Variable Stitch Density
5. Frequent Thread Breakage
6. Puckering
7. Mechanical Damage
8. Needle Heating Damage
5

Slipped stitch:
Sometimes needle thread could not lock the bobbin or looper thread then it is called
slipped stitch or skipped stitch. The other name of this fault is floating. This is more harmful
in case of chain stitch than lock stitch. The followings are the causes & remedies of slipped
stitch formation given by a table:
SL Causes Remedies
01 Hook or needle failing to enter thread
loops at the correct time.
Machine clearances and timings should be
checked.
Check if the needle is inserted and aligned
correctly.
02 Thread loop failure caused by incorrect
needle size.
Needle size should be changed.
03 Flagging of fabric due to large throat
plate hole.
The hole of throat plate & needle size must
be adjusted.
04 If needle deflections. Needle should be changed.
05 Incorrect sewing tension in the needle Re-adjust tensions.
06 Sewing thread is not capable to form
loop
Thread to be changed.
6

Staggered stitch:
Stitching line should be straight but sometimes it is zigzag then it is called staggered
stitch. The followings are the causes & remedies of staggered stitch formation given by a
table:
Unbalance stitch:
This type of defect is found in lock stitch machine. When locking is not formed at the
middle point of upper and lower then it is called unbalance stitch. The following are the causes
& remedies of unbalanced stitch formation given by a table:
7
No. Causes Remedies
01 Needle vibration or deflection. Increase the needle size
Tapered needle should be used.

02 Incorrect needle point. Needle to be changed.
03 Wrong adjustment of needle & thread
size.
Needle size & thread size to be Changed.
04 Deflected motion of feed dog. Motion of feed dog to be adjusted.
05 Poor fabric control.
Feed mechanism should be changed.

No. Causes Remedies
01 Incorrect threading. Setting of proper tension to the sewing thread.
Proper care to the twisting of the thread during
sewing.
02 Incorrect sewing tension. Should be adjusted thread tension.
03 Wrong adjustment of needle thread
path.
Use of right thread path.
Frequent thread breakage:
This breakage of thread again & again during sewing & also, there needs more time
& which is harmful for production. Specially, when there needs to open out of sewing to
solve the problem. The following are the causes & remedies of frequent thread breakage
formation given by a table:
No. Causes Remedies
01 Wrong winding of threads on to the
bobbin.
Proper winding of threads on to the bobbin.
Pre-wound bobbin may be used.
02 More tension to the bobbin threads. The tension must be adjusted to the bobbin threads
.
03
Wrong fitting of bobbin case. Examine the size & type of bobbin.
Examine the damaging of bobbin case.
8

Variable stitch density:
It must need to be the same amount of stitches per unit length. If it is not, then it is
called variable stitch density. The main cause of variable stitch density is irregular feed of
fabric due to insufficient pressure of pressure foot. The following are the cause & remedies
of variable stitch density formation given by a table:
Broken Stitches:
When stitches are broken during sewing is called broken stitch.
Causes:
 Thread is being broken so one seam crosses another seam.
9
No. Causes Remedies
01 Improper unwinding of thread from
package during sewing.
Proper care should be kept to the thread
package.
02 Twisting of needle thread in the
bottom of the thread package.
Should be used to the bottom of the thread
package.
03
Twisting of thread in the thread
guide.
Proper threading of sewing thread during
sewing.
04 More tension to the thread. The tension of thread should be less or use
of high strength threads.

 These types of fault occur because of low quality thread.
 Because of high thread tension.
Remedies:
 Use needle with appropriate needle point.
 Make sure the sewing thread quality.
 Make sure good sewing process.
Joint Stitch:
When joint two fabrics by sewing than have a stitch point that place sewing is start and end
of sewing. Sometime this joint point is not uniform that is called joint stitch defects.
Causes:
 For the lack of experience or concentration of worker.
 Sometimes in the machine problem.
Remedies:
 Seam is open n and sewing again correctly.
 If machine measurement problem then solve it.
10

Needle mark:
Trace of hole sewing machine needle due to re sewing
Causes:
 For uneven stitch or any uneven seam want to uniform then open stitch or open
seam after that make this needle mark.
Remedies:
 Should be care at the time of sewing.
Oil Spot:
When the spot of oil and wax are found on the fabric surface then it called oil spot.
Cause:
 During the sewing operation oil can accidentally slick out from the machine
and drop on the fabric and spotted.
Remedies:
 Spot lifter chemical use to remove the oil the mark of the garments. At first
the spot lifting chemical spray on the garments spot then air blown by the
machine. The spot remove.
11

Needle Thread Breakage:
Causes:
 Excessive tension.
 Broken thread spring
 Sharp edges on throat plate, hook point, needle guard, bobbin case, needle
groove.
 Thread frying at needle.
 Excessive needle heat; groove or eye blocked with melted fabric.
 Hook overheating.
 Poor quality thread.
 Excessive tension.
Remedies:
 Use a stronger thread or adjust tension.
 Replace and adjust spring.
 Replace the needle being used with a higher quality needle.
 Use finer thread
 Ensure adequate oil supply
 Change to a correctly finished thread of better quality.
Bobbin Thread Breakage
Causes:
 Badly wound thread on the bobbin
 Tension too tight or bobbin over running
12

 Sharp edges on bobbin case or spring or looper eyelet.
 Bobbin case not fitting correctly
Remedies:
 Adjust bobbin winder alignment. Use pre-wound bobbins.
 Adjust bobbin case function.
 Polish edges and correct surfaces.
 Check the size of bobbin.
2.3.2. Problems of pucker:
It is one of the most aggravating problems encountered while making fine seams in
woven or knitted fabrics. Since the thread is an essential part of any seam, it is often blamed
for creating seam pucker. There are, however, other contributing factors which include fabric
structure, seam construction, thread/needle size and feeding problems – both mechanical and
operator induced.
Seam Pucker:
Causes:
 High thread tension.
 Incorrect thread tension.
 Improper thread type.
13

Remedies:
 Threads tensions have to be corrected.
 Fabrics feeding should be controlled.
 Feeding mechanism should be changed.
Tension Pucker:
Occurs due to: Incorrect sewing tension
Cause:
 Tension pucker is caused while sewing with too much tension.
 Tension is also referred to as seam shrinkage or thread relaxation pucker.
Solution:
 Use a high-quality sewing thread with a low-friction lubricant.
 Use a high-quality sewing thread with even unwinding tension.
Inherent pucker:
Occurs due to: structural jamming
Causes:
 This condition depends primarily on the characteristics of the knit and the finish
fabric.
14

Solution:
 Reduce the stitch density
 A chain stitch or an over edge stitch will produce less structural jamming than a
lock stitch.
 Avoid multiple rows of stitching which cause more pucker.
 Use the finest thread size possible to assemble the panels prior to the topstitching
operation when topstitching a seam.
Pucker caused by fabric and thread instability:
Occurs due to: dimensional change in fabric and thread
Cause:
 Dimensional changes in thread or fabrics during post-sewing treatments or
washing can cause pucker.
Solution:
 The best way to avoid this kind of pucker is by using synthetic threads with
low wet shrinkage properties.
Feed Pucker:
Occurs due to: poorly controlled fabric feed.
Cause:
 When two plies of material are not fed uniformly, the variations are held captive
by the stitches and cause feed pucker.
15

Solution:
 Use a low friction presser foot.
 Make sure the operator is not holding back on either the top or bottom ply.
 Check for fabric hanging in any folders that may be in use.
 Match up feed and foot.
2.3.3. Damage of fabric on seam line:
It is happened due to wrong needle selection or needle damage. But it may be happened
in case of new or fine needles. There are two types of fabric damaging are available
given below:
1) Mechanical damage:
. The followings are the steps to be taken to keep the fabrics free from this type of defect:
 By using perfect size & shape of the needle & needle point without any defect.
 By reducing the speed of sewing machine.
 By using lubricant.
 By testing sew ability before sewing fabrics.
2) Needle heating damage:
The damage of fabric due to friction occurred between the needle & fabrics. The fabric
can be damaged with that temperature. There is a less possibility of damaging in case of
fabrics made from natural fibers.
16

The following are the steps to be taken to keep the fabrics free from this type of defect:
 By changing needle Size & shape so that there is less generating of heat to the
needle.
 By sewing smaller length at higher speed.
 By using lubricant to the needle.
 By using Teflon coated needle.
2.4. Non-sewing faults, causes and their remedies:
 Defects due to wrong pattern.
 Defects due to wrong cutting.
 Defects due to poor handling of goods.
 Defects due to oil marks.
 Defects due to wrong ironing/folding/packing.
Size measurement fault:
During manufacturing of garments size of some part are measured as requirement. After
assembling full garments is also measured so that the dimension of garment is ok. Fault occurs in
the time is very rare.
17

Sewing thread shrinkage:
Causes:
 Due to variable shrinkage % of sewing thread and fabric. Seam pucker will create
after washing or ironing.
 Cotton threads develop puckering when wet or after wash.
Remedies:
 To use synthetic thread.
 To protect this, it must know about shrinkage % of sewing thread and fabric.
Structural jamming of fabric:
Causes:
 When sewing is done by needle to densely woven fabric or in which no. of warp
and weft yarns are more in one inch, there is happened seam pucker due to
shrinkage of fabric.
Remedies:
 By using finer thread and needle.
 By minimize stitch density.
 By using chain stitch instead lock stitch.
18

Chapter-3
Experimental Details
19

I have collected data from the difference sewing line & the difference style of T-shirt with their
specification such as buyer names, style, etc. I also collected the details information about
different types of sewing faults for T-shirt with their actual causes and remedies. There are all
things are given below in this chapter.
3.1. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- TSM-18)
Table3.1.1. Specification of T- Shirt (Style- TSM-18)
Buyer Name ADORA
Product T-Shirt
Style TSM-18
Line No 6
Figure: 3.1.1. Slipped Stitch [T- Shirt (Style- TSM-18)]
20

GTA Sports Ltd.
Gohailbari, Zirani, Savar, Dhaka
Table 3.1.2. Hourly table inspection report [T-Shirt (Style: TMS-18)]
HOURS INSPECTION
QUANTITY
OK NAME OF
DEFECTS
TOTAL
ALTER
REJECT
1ST 66 62 A-4 4 0
2ND 118 115 A-3 3 0
3RD 107 102 A-5 5 0
4TH 88 85 A-3 3 0
5TH 138 136 A-2 2 0
6TH 145 141 A-4 4 0
7TH 163 159 A-4 4 0
GRAND
TOTAL
825 800 25 25 0
CODE OF DEFECT:
A=Slipped Stitch
21

3.2. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- TMV-10)
Table3.2.1. Specification of T- Shirt (Style- TMV-10)
Figure: 3.2.1. Oil Spot [T- Shirt (Style- TMV-10)]
22
Buyer Name GOLP GOTRO
Product T-Shirt
Style TMV-10
Line No 6

GTA Sports Ltd.
Table3.2.2 Hourly table inspection report of T-Shirt (Style: TMV-10)
HOURS INSPECTION
QUANTITY
OK NAME OF
DEFECTS
TOTAL
ALTER
REJECT
1ST 56 51 B-5 5 0
2ND 110 103 B-7 7 0
3RD 112 109 B-3 5 0
4TH 88 85 B-3 3 0
5TH 130 129 B-1 1 0
6TH 142 138 B-4 4 0
7TH 156 152 B-4 4 0
GRAND
TOTAL
794 767 27 27 0
CODE OF DEFECT:
B=OIL SPOT
23

3.3. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- SQV-10)
Table3.3.1. Specification of T- Shirt (Style- SQV-10)
Figure: 3.3.1.Puckaring [T- Shirt (Style- SQV-10)]
24
Buyer Name GOLP GOTRO
Product T-Shirt
Style SQV-10
Line No 6

GTA Sports Ltd.
Table3.3.2. Hourly table inspection report of T-Shirt (Style: SQV-10)
HOURS INSPECTION
QUANTITY
OK NAME OF
DEFECTS
TOTAL
ALTER
REJECT
1ST 87 84 C-3 3 0
2ND 102 99 C-3 3 0
3RD 116 111 C-5 5 0
4TH 90 87 C-3 3 0
5TH 130 129 C-1 1 0
6TH 143 139 C-4 4 0
7TH 148 146 C-2 2 0
GRAND
TOTAL
816 795 21 21 0
CODE OF DEFECT:
C=Puckering
25

3.4. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- GAA-66)
Table3.4.1. Specification of T- Shirt (Style- GAA-66)
Figure: 3.4.1. Broken Stitch [T- Shirt (Style- GAA-66)]
26
Buyer Name MARRY FASHION
Product T-Shirt
Style GAA -66
Line No 6

GTA Sports Ltd.
Table3.4.2. Hourly table inspection report of T-Shirt (Style: GAA-66)
CODE OF DEFECT:
D= Broken Stitch
27
HOURS INSPECTION
QUANTITY
OK NAME OF
DEFECTS
TOTAL
ALTER
REJECT
1ST 94 93 D-3 3 0
2ND 81 80 D-1 1 0
3RD 101 98 D-3 3 0
4TH 135 133 D-2 2 0
5TH 138 137 D-1 1 0
6TH 156 153 D-3 3 0
7TH 169 165 D-4 4 0
GRAND
TOTAL
874 857 17 17 0

3.5. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- TSM-16)
Table3.5.1. Specification of T- Shirt (Style- TSM-16)
Figure: 3.5.1. Gathering [T- Shirt (Style- TSM-16)]
28
Buyer Name ADORA
Product T-Shirt
Style TSM-16
Line No 6

GTA Sports Ltd.
Table3.5.2. Hourly table inspection report of T-Shirt (Style: TSM-16)
HOURS INSPECTION
QUANTITY
OK NAME OF
DEFECTS
TOTAL
ALTER
REJECT
1ST 66 63 E-3 3 0
2ND 118 117 E-1 1 0
3RD 107 102 E-5 5 0
4TH 88 85 E-3 3 0
5TH 138 135 E-3 3 0
6TH 145 141 E-4 4 0
7TH 163 162 E-1 1 0
GRAND
TOTAL
825 805 20 20 0
CODE OF DEFECT:
E=Gathering
29

3.6. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- MH-56)
Table3.6.1. Specification of T- Shirt (Style- MH-66)
Figure: 3.6.1. Tension loose [T- Shirt (Style- MH-56)]
30
Product T-Shirt
Style MH-66
Line No 6

GTA Sports Ltd.
Table3.6.2. Hourly table inspection report of T-Shirt (Style- MH-56)
HOURS INSPECTION
QUANTITY
OK NAME OF
DEFECTS
TOTAL
ALTER
REJECT
1ST 75 73 F-2 2 0
2ND 98 95 F-3 3 0
3RD 107 103 F-4 5 0
4TH 88 85 F-3 3 0
5TH 128 126 F-2 2 0
6TH 156 151 F-5 5 0
7TH 163 161 F-2 2 0
GRAND
TOTAL
815 794 21 21 0
CODE OF DEFECT:
F=Tension Loose
31

3.7. Data Analysis for T- Shirt (Style- KS-23)
Table3.7.1. Specification of T- Shirt (Style- KS-23)
Figure: 3.7.1. Needle mark [T- Shirt (Style- KS-23)]
32
Product T-Shirt
Style KS-23
Line No 6

GTA Sports Ltd.
Table3.7.2. Hourly table inspection report of T-Shirt (Style: KS-23)
HOURS INSPECTION
QUANTITY
OK NAME OF
DEFECTS
TOTAL
ALTER
REJECT
1ST 88 87 G-1 1 0
2ND 74 73 G-1 1 0
3RD 103 102 G-1 1 0
4TH 81 80 G-1 1 0
5TH 123 121 G-2 2 0
6TH 150 149 G-1 1 0
7TH 163 162 G-1 1 0
GRAND
TOTAL
782 774 8 8 0
CODE OF DEFECT:
G=Needle Mark
33

Chapter-4
Result and Discussion
34

4.1. Result and discussion for T-Shirt (Style- TSM-18)
After observation T-Shirt (Style-TSM-18) I found there slipped stitch sewing faults. I observed
7th
hour‟s production and found 25 slipped stitch pcs but all pcs are altering and no rejecting
pcs found. Maximum slipped stitch fault occur 3rd hour production time. Average fault occur
in hours is maximum 3 pcs. For the Slipped stitches sewing fault of the T-shirt, I have taken lot
of information from Q.A.D for actual causes and remedies of this type of fault. This fault
actually happened for needle deflection, hook or needle failing to enter thread loops at the
correct time. Incorrect sewing tension in the needle, flagging of fabric due to poor presser foot
control, thread loop failure due to incorrect setting of thread control mechanism, Thread loop
failure due to incorrect needle size for thread size, sewing thread is not capable to form loop,
this is more harmful in case of chain stitch than lock stitch etc. And remedies of this type of
fault are needle should be changed, re-adjusted tension and thread should be changed, machine
clearances and timings should be checked, check if the needle is inserted and aligned correctly,
the hole of throat plate & needle size must be adjusted, needle should be changed, check with a
strobe. Change to superior spun polyester or filament based core spun threads reset the needle
guard and replace the needle. In apparel industry if they can control the cause then they can
rejection of final product. Quality control department should give emphasis on it. In every steps
of manufacturing quality department should check the quality of the product. When this type of
defect appears in the product they should take necessary steps to reduce the rate of defect.
35

4.2. Result and discussion for T- Shirt (Style- TMV-10)
After observation T-Shirt (Style-TMV-10) I found oil spot sewing faults. I observed 2nd
hour‟s
production and found 27 oil spot sewing fault pcs but all pcs are altering and no rejecting pcs
found. Maximum oil spot sewing fault occur 3rd
hour production time. Average fault occur in
hours is maximum 3 pcs. For the oil spot sewing fault of the T-shirt, I have taken lot of
information from Q.A.D for actual causes and remedies of this type of fault. This fault actually
happened for during sewing process if oil and wax are deposit from the machine to the fabric
surface then oil spot is occurred. During the sewing operation oil can accidentally slick out
from the machine and drop on the fabric and spotted. Remedies of this type of fault are Oil spot
is re moved from the fabric by a special type of spray named “Spot lifter”. First its spray on the
spot and then air blown on the spot by machine named spot cleaning machine. Spot lifter
chemical use to remove the oil the mark of the garments. At first the spot lifting chemical spray
on the garments spot then air blown by the machine. The spot remove. In apparel industry if
they can control the cause then they can rejection of final product. Quality control department
should give emphasis on it. In every steps of manufacturing quality department should check
the quality of the product. When this type of defect appears in the product they should take
necessary steps to reduce the rate of defect.
36

4.3. Result and discussion for T- Shirt (Style- SQV-10)
After observation T-Shirt (Style-SQV-10) I found Puckering sewing faults. I observed 7th
hour‟s production and found 21 seams puckering sewing fault pcs but all pcs are altering and
no rejecting pcs found. Maximum seam puckering fault occur 3rd
hour production time.
Average fault occur in hours is maximum 3 pcs. For this type of sewing fault of the T-shirt, I
have taken lot of information from Q.A.D for actual causes and remedies of this type of
fault. It is one of the most aggravating problems encountered while making fine seams in
woven or knitted fabrics. Since the thread is an essential part of any seam, it is often blamed
for creating seam pucker. There are, however, other contributing factors which include
fabric structure, seam construction, thread/needle size and feeding problems – both
mechanical and operator induced. This fault actually happened for Variable or uneven
stretch on fabric plies, fabric dimensional instability, extension of sewing thread, fabric
construction, sewing thread shrinkage, extension of sewing thread, high thread tension,
incorrect thread tension, improper thread type. Remedies of this type of fault are by using
finer thread and needle, by minimizing stitch density, by using synthetic threads with low
wet shrinkage properties, threads tensions have to be corrected, fabrics feeding should be
controlled, feeding mechanism should be changed. Quality control department should give
emphasis on it. In every steps of manufacturing quality department should check the quality
of the product. When this type of defect appears in the product they should take necessary
steps to reduce the rate of defect.
37

4.4. Result and discussion for T- Shirt (Style- GAA-66)
After observation T-Shirt (Style-GAA-66) I found broken stitch sewing faults. I observed 7th
hour‟s production and found 17 broken stitch pcs but all pcs are altering and no rejecting pcs
found. Maximum broken stitch fault occur 7th hour production time. Average fault occur in
hours is maximum 2 pcs. For the broken stitches sewing fault of the T-shirt, I have taken lot
of information from Q.A.D for actual causes and remedies of this type of fault. This fault
actually happened for thread is being broken so one seam crosses another seam, these types
of fault occurs because of low quality thread, because of high thread tension. Remedies
of this type of fault are using needles with appropriate needle point; make sure the sewing
thread quality, make sure good sewing process. Use a larger diameter thread on operations
where the thread is being cut. Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain
stitch seam on denim, you normally would like to maintain a 60%/40% relationship of Needle
thread to looper thread in the Seam. Use needles with the correct needle point. Change the
needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle Cuts are occurring frequently.
Quality control department should give emphasis on it. In every steps of manufacturing
quality department should check the quality of the product. When this type of defect appears
in the product they should take necessary steps to reduce the rate of defect.
38

4.5. Result and discussion for T- Shirt (Style- TSM-16)
After observation T-Shirt (Style-TSM-16) I found gathering sewing fault. I observed 7th
hour‟s production and found 20 gathering sewing faults pcs but all pcs are altering and no
rejecting pcs found. Maximum gathering sewing fault occur 6th hour production time.
Average fault occur in hours is maximum 2 pcs. For the gathering sewing fault of the T-shirt,
I have taken lot of information from Q.A.D for actual causes and remedies of this type of
fault. Actually remedies of this fault are stitch length should be changed. Gathering sewing
fault frequently occur. Quality control department should give emphasis on it. In every steps
of manufacturing quality department should check the quality of the product. When this type
of defect appears in the product they should take necessary steps to reduce the rate of defect.
4.6. Result and discussion for T- Shirt (Style- MH-56)
After observation T-Shirt (Style-MH-56) I found Tension loose sewing faults. I observed 7th
hour‟s production and found 21 tension loose sewing fault pcs but all pcs are altering and no
rejecting pcs found. Maximum tension loose sewing fault occur 6th hour production time.
Average fault occur in hours is maximum 3 pcs. For the tension loose sewing fault of the T-
shirt, I have taken lot of information from Q.A.D for actual causes and remedies of this type
of fault. This fault actually happened for poor thread tension often comes from an
incorrectly inserted needle, Poor thread tension often comes from an incorrectly inserted
needle; machine needles have a flat side that should always face the back of the sewing
machine, the tension is too tight if the lower thread is pulled up to the top of the fabric.
Actually remedies of this fault are check that the bobbin is wound correctly; Check that the
bobbin is wound correctly. It shouldn‟t have any loose threads or loops sticking out.
39

Never wind thread onto a bobbin that already contains thread, always use an empty bobbin,
and reduce the upper thread tension by adjusting to a lower number on the tension
dial. Quality control department should give emphasis on it. In every steps of
manufacturing quality department should check the quality of the product. When this type
of defect appears in the product they should take necessary steps to reduce the rate of
defect.
4.7. Result and discussion for T- Shirt (Style- KS-23)
After observation T-Shirt (Style-KS-23) I found Needle mark sewing faults. I observed 7th
hour‟s production and found 8 needle mark sewing fault pcs but all pcs are altering and no
rejecting pcs found. Maximum needle mark sewing fault occur 5th hour production time.
Average fault occur in hours is maximum 1 pcs. For the needle mark sewing fault of the T-
shirt, I have taken lot of information from Q.A.D for actual causes and remedies of this type
of fault. This fault actually happened for uneven s stitch or any uneven seam want to
uniform then open that stitch or seam after that making this Needle mark. For the lack of
experience or concentration of worker. Actually remedies of this fault are ironing at good
temperature & uniform. Quality control department should give emphasis on it. In every
steps of manufacturing quality department should check the quality of the product. When
this type of defect appears in the product they should take necessary steps to reduce the rate
of defect.
40

Chapter-5
Conclusion
41

Finally I have completed my thesis after lots of inspection, experiment & discussion. I have
gathered a large experience about this project. I have increased my knowledge about problems of
sewing & how those problems are minimized. This study investigated knitwear sewing process
in a ready-made clothing Enterprise manufacturing men‟s suit in terms of quality; in addition, the
reasons increasing quality faults and the priorities were determined for the improvement studies.
As a result, the knitwear production process was concluded statistically not under control in the
enterprise. In addition, there was a statistically significant relation between the quality fault
amounts. In the present study, it is established that Statistical Process Control Methods could be
suggested for planning improvement studies and analyzing whether the quality is under control
in a ready-made clothing enterprise. In addition, it can be suggested to prepare separate control
charts for all process groups contributing to fault reasons and to investigate hypothetically the
effects of improvement studies on quality level. Within the scope of quality improvement
studies, it could be recommended to make regular quality control education, to investigate
permanent solutions instead of daily solutions, to keep the workers‟ motivation high, and to
make regular maintenance of machines. To enable a good quality system in enterprises, there
should be adequate number of quality staff and the quality consciousness of workers should be
increased. Quality system includes all the phases of production from the input of materials to
product output, and quality standards should be created. Material quality should be controlled by
performing input controls, while production quality should be provided by intermediary controls
during production, and product quality should be provided by making output controls in the
enterprise.
42

Reference:


 http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/different-causes-of-seam-puckering/
 http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/6229/sewing-faults?page=1
 http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-hub/apparel-expertise/solutions-to-
sewing-problems
 https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/basic-maintenance-tension-skipped-stitches
 Industrial fault reports of GTA SPORTS LTD.
 http://www.ebay.com/gds/Six-Common-Sewing-Machine-Problems-Solved-
/10000000177631751/g.html
43

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