Industrial Attachment

Report on Industrial Attachment
Northern Fashion Ltd.
Plot # 16-18, Dakhin Panishail, EPZ-Kaliakoir Road,Kashimpur, Gazipur.
(1st
February to 31st
March, 2011)
Prepared By
Name ID Batch
Md. Moktadidul Hoque 2007100400008 5th
Sanjib Kumar Roy 2007100400029 5th
Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast university
Date of Submission: 16 May, 2011

Southeast University
Report on Industrial Attachment
Northern Fashion Ltd
Plot # 16-18, Dakhin Panishail, EPZ-Kaliakoir Road, Kashimpur, Gazipur.
(1st
Fbruary to 31st
March,2011)
Supervising Teacher
Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan Murad
Chairman,
Prepared By
Name ID Batch Signature
Md. Moktadidul Hoque 2007100400008 5th
Sanjib Kumar Roy 2007100400029 5th
Date of Submission: 16 May, 201

Acknowledgement
To preparing this report a number of people have made considerable contribution. Their in-
sights, advice and suggestions helped us a lot. We would like to pay special thanks to Prof.
Syed Fakhrul Hassan, [Chairman; Department of Textile Engineering, Southeast Uni-
versity], for continuously guiding us about the development and preparation of the report. He
has enriched us with necessary ideas and concepts for incessant improvement of the report.
We would also like to express our heartfelt thanks to Md. Fazley Elahi, [Assistant Profes-
sor; Department of Textile Engineering; Southeast University] for all necessary informa-
tion for preparing this report.
We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Touhid, [Senior production officer;
Northern Fashion Ltd], who help us lot at time of industrial training and he share us lot of
experience and we gather knowledge about industrial environment.
We also express our thanks S.M. Aminur Rahaman [Manager HR, Admin & compliance
Northern fashion Ltd.] for providing a chance and allowed us to work in the organization
during the Industrial training period.
We express our heartiest thanks to Assistant General Manager of dyeing section & Manager
of Knitting section. Dyeing & Fishing, Garment and Accessories for enriching our knowledge
on various fabric manufacturing and finishing processes with their excellent professional
knowledge.
Our sincere appreciation goes to the entire Northern Fashion Ltd. team for extending their
hands of cooperation throughout the training period.
However, we have prepared my Industrial Training report overcoming all the difficulties &
also the shortage of time. Here I would like to present the report.
Date: 16 May, 2011 Acknowledged By
Sanjib Kumar Roy
Md. Moktadidul Hoque

Chapter Chapter Name Page
1 Northern Fashion at a Glance -------------------------------------------- 1 – 12
2 Manpower Management -------------------------------------------------- 13 – 16
3 Knitting Section ------------------------------------------------------------ 17 – 32
4 Dyeing & Finishing Section ---------------------------------------------- 33 – 106
5 Garments Section ---------------------------------------------------------- 107 – 120
6 Maintenance ---------------------------------------------------------------- 121 – 123
7 Utility Service -------------------------------------------------------------- 124 – 128
8 Story & Inventory---------------------------------------------------------- 129 – 130
9 Cost Analysis --------------------------------------------------------------- 131 – 132
10 Marketing Activities ------------------------------------------------------ 133 – 135
11 Conclusion ------------------------------------------------------------------ 136 – 137
Content

NorthernFashionataGlance
NORTHERN FASHION LTD.
SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
Chapter 1
Northern Fashion at A Glance

Northern Fashion Ltd. [NFL]

Northern Fashion Ltd. is a state-of-the-art Knitting, Dyeing – Finishing & Garment Manufac-
turing factory. The project has been a setting up of a 100% export oriented composite knit
garment unit. The project has been designed to fulfill the present world market demand for
producing most value added fabrics. The project is equipped with open width finishing line.
This helps saving all types of fabrics consumption. Also the quality of fabrics is improved
tremendously. The machinery of the project is Brand new and has been imported from
abroad. The project has been started its commercial operation in the mid of 2007.
Objectives:
To meet the appropriate expectations of clients
To gain confidence of the Buyers
To be the "Tag carrier of made in Bangladesh"
To create employment opportunities
Speedy Communication through Internet & Telecom services

Location:
Corporate Office Address Factory Address
Plot # 91 (3rd
Floor), Suhrawardy Avenue,
Block – K
Baridhara, Dhaka – 1212, Bangladesh
Tel: 8854063, 8831140
Fax: 880 – 2 - , 8831150
www.northerngroup.com.bd
Plot # 16 – 18, Dakhin Panishail,
EPZ – Kaliakoir Road, Kashimpur,
Gazipur, Bangladesh.
(P.O. Box # 1349 BKSP)
Tel: 7788383 – 5
Fax: 8802 – 7701922
www.northerngroup.com.bd
Person to be Contacted
Sayeed Hassan
Managing Director
Cell: 01819813951
E-mail: sayeed@nflbd.com
Sohel Monzoor
Director
Cell: 01819813950
E-mail: sohel@nflbd.com

Geographical Location:
Latitude : 23°59'29.67"N
Longitude : 90°15'26.59"E

Factory Layout:
EPZ-Kaliakoir Road
Main Factory Building
Utility &
Store
Building
ETP
WTP
Stuff
Quarter
& Dining
Scequrity
Room
Gas Line
Meter Entry & Exit Gate
E
N
W
S

Other Information:
Category Details
Turnover US $ 18,400,000 in 2009
Banker Eastern Bank Ltd. (Trade Service Division)
Head Office:
10 Dilkusha C/A, Dhaka- 1000, Bangladesh
Tel: 9565696; PABX: 9556360;
Fax: 9562362
SWIFT Code: EBLD BD DH
Membership a. Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association
(BKMEA)
b. Bangladesh Garment Manufacturer & Exporter’s Association
(BGMEA)
c. Export Promotion Bereau (EPB) of Bangladesh Government
International
Certification
a. Oeko-Tex Standard 100, Confidence In Textiles, Germany
b. WRAP(11536), USA
Production Capacity
(Annually)
Knitting Section: 900,000 kgs
Dyeing Section: 21,00,000 kgs
Garments Section: 450,000 dozens
Product Categories Mens,
Ladies and
Children
Products Circular Knit T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Tang Top, Sports Wear etc. of
various types of Fabric such as Single Jersey, Rib, French Terry
Interlock, Fleece of 100% Cotton, Lycra, Viscose, Modal,

Category Details
Polyamide, CVC, and other Polyester, etc.
Production
Lead-Time
Sample: 07 Days
Order : 60 – 45 Days
Reorder: 15 Days
Factory Space 180,000 SFT (Approximately)
Number of Worker
& Staff
1320 Persons
Different Depart-
ment
Knitting
Dyeing & Finishing
Garments
General Store
Administration
Human Resources & Compliance
Marketing & Merchandising
Accounts
Maintenance
Utility
Compliance:
Northern Fashion Ltd. complies with specific regulation and requirement state by the land of
law or by the customer against work environment, sound, noise, safety & health, working
hour, wages, mandatory benefits, cleaning & hygienic, work regulations etc.
Some examples are given below-
Fire Extinguisher:
Sufficient fire extinguisher in Northern Fashion Ltd.

Drinking Water:
Northern Fashion Ltd. supplies pure drinking water for
test result. This test result is given below
BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY (BUST)
BRTC N0
Sent by
Proiect
Company address
EPZ,Kaliakoir, Kashimpur, Gazipur
Sample ID
Date of Test : 24
TEST REPORT (PHYSICAL/ CHEMICAL/ BACTERIOLOGICAL ANALYSIS OF DRINKING WATER SAMPLE)
S.L
No.
Water Quality
Parameters
1 Total Hardness
(as CaCO
2 Manganese (Mn)
3 Iron (Fe)
4 Nitrate
(NO
5 Total Dissolved
Solid (TDS)
6 Nitrite
(NO
7 Copper (Cu)
Comments:
Important Notes:
sponsibility as to the respective character of the sample required to be tested.
are sent in a secure and sealed cover/pack.
Drinking Water:
Mobile: 01819 557 964; PABX: 966 5650
BRTC N0. : 03967/ 10
: NORTHERN FASHION LIMITED
- Water Test
Company address : Roil 16
Sample ID : As Per Client
Test : 24/10/20
Water Quality
Parameters
Total Hardness
(as CaCO3)
Manganese (Mn)
Iron (Fe)
Nitrate-Nitrogen
(NO3 – N)
Total Dissolved
Solid (TDS)
Nitrite-Nitrogen
(NO2 – N)
Copper (Cu)
Comments:
1. Sample was supped by CLIENT
2. Sample was received in unsealed condition.
Important Notes: Samples as supplied to us have been tested in our laboratory.
DEPA
Mobile: 01819 557 964; PABX: 966 5650
ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERING LABORATORY
0-11/CE; Dt: 2411012010
NORTHERN FASHION LIMITED
: Roil 16-18, Dakhin Panishil,
Client Letter
010 – 08/11/2010
Water Quality Unit Concentration
mg/l
Manganese (Mn) mg/l
mg/l
Nitrogen mg/l
Total Dissolved mg/l
Nitrogen mg/l
mg/l
Sample was supped by CLIENT
Sample was received in unsealed condition.
Samples as supplied to us have been tested in our laboratory.
test result. This test result is given below-
DEPARTMENT OF CIVIL ENGINEERING
Mobile: 01819 557 964; PABX: 966 5650
11/CE; Dt: 2411012010
NORTHERN FASHION LIMITED
18, Dakhin Panishil,
EPZ,Kaliakoir, Kashimpur, Gazipur.
08/11/2010
Concentration
Present
66
0.007
0.15
0.3
121
<MDL
0.051
Sample was supped by CLIENT
NORTHERN
-
RTMENT OF CIVIL ENGINEERING
Mobile: 01819 557 964; PABX: 966 5650
Ref, No.
Source
Bangladesh
Standard for
Drinking
Water
(ECR’97)
200 – 500
0.1
0.3 – 1.0
10
1000
< 1
1
ORTHERN
Northern Fashion Ltd. supplies pure drinking water for employees that are
Mobile: 01819 557 964; PABX: 966 5650-80 Ext. 7226; www.buet.ac.bd/ce/
Ref, No. : NFL / Admin
Source : Fresh water
Bangladesh
Standard for
WHO
Guideline
Values,
2004
500
0.4
0.3
50
1000
3
2
FASHION
employees that are
80 Ext. 7226; www.buet.ac.bd/ce/
: NFL / Admin- 03; Dt: 18/10/2010
: Fresh water
Guideline
Method of
analysis
USEPA
130.2;SM2340 C
PAN
Method
USEPA
200.9SM;3111
USEPA 353.
4500-NO
USEPA
160.2;SM25
D
USEPA 353.
4500-NO
USEPA
200.9SM;3111
Samples as supplied to us have been tested in our laboratory. BTRC does not have any r
sponsibility as to the respective character of the sample required to be tested. It is recommended that sample
ASHION LTD.
employees that are ensured by
03; Dt: 18/10/2010
Method of
analysis
Minimum
Detection
Limit
(MOL)
USEPA
2340 C
AN
Method
USEPA
200.9SM;3111 B
USEPA 353.2; SM
NO3-N-F
USEPA
160.2;SM2540 B-
USEPA 353.2; SM
NO2-N-F
USEPA
200.9SM;3111 B
BTRC does not have any r
It is recommended that sample
10
TD.
ensured by BUET
Minimum
Detection
Limit
(MOL)
0.2
0.005
0.02
0.1
5
0.008
0.014
BTRC does not have any re-
It is recommended that sample
Page10NorthernFashionataGlance

Complain System:
In Northern fashion Ltd employees/labors complains are handled out by the following dia-
gram below-
Manager – HR
Employee/Labor
Administration Officers
Compliance Officers
Welfare Officers
Production Related Officers
Paper
Complain Box
Labor Participating Committee
Manager – Production
Solved Unsolved
Informationflow
Written SystemOral System

Other Compliance Matters:
No child labor/involuntary labor
Timely payment, incentive, Bonus and leaves following minimum wages
Transportation in companies account for distance labors/staffs
Free routine medical checkup and medical facilities
Training of operators and technical staffs
Regular evacuation drill and trained staffs
Alternative in building staircase
Emergency exit
Forklift and wheel loader to warehouse go-down
Security Observation through CC TV
Remarks:
It’s a wonderful project. This project makes profit more than ever for its strong management.
Northern Fashion Ltd. (NFL) is leading house of industries and commerce in Bangladesh
having Knitting, Dyeing and Garments industries. The main accomplishment of their project
is the highly gas burn power plant and own chemical waste water treatment plant. This is ef-
fectively running to remove effluents from drained water. It is such a type of industry which
has the ability to maintain finest quality products. To fulfill the buyer requirements the facto-
ry has established a strong management and equipped with modern machineries.

ManpowerManagement
Chapter 2
Manpower Management

ManpowerManagement
Manpower Organ gram:
Manpower Organ gram of Northern Fashion Ltd. is as follows –
Administration
Managing Director
Director
General Manager
Manager
Commer-
cial
& Logis-
tics
Manager
HR, Ad-
min &
Com-
pliance
AGM
Fabric
Division
Manager
IED, Plan-
ning &
MIS
Production
Manager
(Sewing - 1)
Production
Manager
(Sewing - 2)
Asst. Man-
ager IT
Manager
Finance &
Accounts
Manager
Audit
Manager Quality
Assurance (Garments
Division)

ManpowerManagement
Fabric Division
AGM
Production Officer Knitting
APO Knitting
Quality
Inspector
QC cum
Production
coordinator
APO Knit-
ting
Supervi-
sor cum
QC
Fitter Man cum
Supervisor
Trainee Supervi-
sor cum QC
Knitting Helper
Knitting Operator
Manager Knitting Manager Dyeing- Finishing
Lab Incharge APO Dyeing APO Finishing
Dyeing
Supervisor
Finishing
Supervisor
Dyeing
Operator
Sewing
Operator
Dyeing
Helper
Compactor
Operator
Stenter / Dryer
Operator
Slitting
Operator
Compactor
Helper
Stenter / Dryer
Helper
Slitting
Helper
Lab Technician
Lab Technician
Lab Assistant

ManpowerManagement
Shift Change:
The industry maintains three shifts for Knitting and Dyeing & Finishing Section. For Gar-
ments section maintains one general shift. Shift duration are given below-
Dyeing & Finishing
Shift Duration
A 6 : 00 AM to 2 : 00 PM
B 2 : 00 PM to 10.00 PM
C 10 : 00 PM to 6 : 00 AM
Garments Section
General Shift 8 : 00 AM to 5 : 00 PM (one hour lunch break)
Job Description / Responsibility of Production Officer:
To prepare programs as per order sheet.
To follow up production time to time & quality of products according to the order
sheet.
To prepare fabric swatch & trim card for buyer`s approval before bulk production
To solve any problem of Dyeing
To give the solution for dia, GSM, shrinkage, spirality, crease mark, line mark and
hand feel problem of the finished fabrics.
To meet the planning schedule according to the requirement of Garments Div.
To submit Daily production reports to the Concern Authority
To maintain registers of dye yarns and samples
To develop new samples and keep it for future requirement.
Any other assignment given by higher authority.
Communication System:
Intercom Telephone
Fax
E-mail
Written letters
Oral

KnittingSection
Page17
Chapter 3
Knitting Section

KnittingSection
Page18
Knitting:
Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a
series of interlocking loops, each row of such loops hanging from the one immediately pre-
ceding it. The basic element of a knit fabric structure is the loops intermeshed with the loops
adjacent to it on both sides and above and below it.
The weft knitted structure is very different from the warp knitted one. The difference is ap-
parent from both warp and weft knitted structures is shown in simplest forms in below. It is
seen from this figure that in a knitted structure a horizontal row of loops can be made using
one thread and the thread runs in horizontal direction.
In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different
thread and the number of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number
of loops in a horizontal row. One can say that in a warp knitted fabric the threads run roughly
in a vertical direction.
Weft Knitting Warp Knitting

KnittingSection
Page19
Northern Fashion Ltd. has a state-of-the-art Weft Knitting Section. It has two knitting unit
that is known as knitting – 1 and knitting – 2. The capacity of the knitting section has been
rated annually as 900,000 kgs of grey fabric.

KnittingSection
Page20
Machinery Layout Plan of Knitting – 1
5 6
43
1 2
7
8
9
10
11
13
12
14
15
16
E
N
W
S
E
N
W
S

KnittingSection
Page21
Description of Layout (Knitting – 1)
Symbol Description
1 Single Jersey Knitting Machine (Keum Yong, Dia-36, G-24, F-108)
5 Rib Knitting Machine (Keum Yong, Dia-30, G-18, F-72)
6 Rib Knitting Machine (Keum Yong, Dia-30, G-18, F-72)
7 Interlock Knitting Machine (Fukuhara, Dia-30, G-24, F-108)
11 Fabric Inspection Machine
14 Chair, Table & Other Furniture for Assistant Production Officer
15 Space for Yarn Storage
16 Space for Knitting Oil Storage
Exit Way
Column
Drinking Water
Creel
Exit Gate

KnittingSection
Page22
Machinery Layout Plan of Knitting – 2
N
W
S
E
F
9
E
3
21
4
65
78

KnittingSection
Page23
Description of Layout (Knitting – 2)
Symbol Description
1 Single Jersey Knitting Machine (Mayer & Cie, Dia-30, G-28, F-96)
3 Single Jersey Knitting Machine (Mayer & Cie, Dia-30, G-28,F-96)
5 Double Jersey Knitting Machine (PAI LUNG, Dia-30, G-18, F-84)
6 Double Jersey Knitting Machine (PAI LUNG, Dia-30, G-18, F-84)
7 Double Jersey Knitting Machine (TERROT, Dia-30, G-24, F-54)
8 Double Jersey Knitting Machine (FUKUHARA, Dia-30, G-24, F-60)
E Electric Balance
F Chair, Table & Other Furniture
Exit Way
Column
Drinking Water
Creel
Exit Gate

KnittingSection
Page24
Specification of Knitting Machine:
S.L
NO.
Brand
Name
Origin Type Dia. Gauge Feeder Qty. Lycra
Attach
1 Mayer & Cie Germany S/J 30 28 96 4 Yes
2 Mayer & Cie (Extra cyln
) Germany S/J 30 38 96 4 Yes
3 Kemu Yong Korea S/J 36 24 108 2 Yes
4 Kemu Yong Korea S/J 30 24 90 2 No
5 Pailung Taiwan D/J 30 18 84 2 No
6 Terrot Japan D/J 30 24 60 1 No
7 Kemu Yong Korea D/J 30 18 72 2 Yes
8 Fukuhara Japan D/J 30 18 60 1 No
9 Fukuhara Japan D/J 30 24 108 4 Yes
Others Equipments Used In Knitting Section:
GSM cutter
Electronic balance
Inspection m/c

KnittingSection
Page25
Raw Material of Knitting Section:
There are two types of raw material that is yarn & Elastane. Brand name & origin of the yarn
& elastane that is used in Northern Fashion Ltd. is given below-
SL.
NO.
Brand Name Origin
1 Vardhaman India
2 T.T India
3 Spot knig India
4 Nahar India
5 Indorama India
6 P.T Gokaka India
7 D.C.M Tex India
8 G.T.N India
9 Square Bangladesh
10 Prime Bangladesh
11 Thermax Bangladesh
12 JK Bangladesh
13 Shirin Bangladesh
14 Hanif Bangladesh
15 PTHM Bangladesh
16 Badsha Bangladesh
17 Bextex Bangladesh
18 Pacific Bangladesh
19 Indothai Indonesia
20 Creora (Elastane) Vietnam
Types of Fabric:
Single jersey & Double Jersey derivatives that is familiar in Northern Fashion Ltd. is given
below-
Single jersey Derivatives
1. Single jersey with lycra and without lycra
2. Single lacoste with half feeder lycra ( in lacoste never used full feeder lycra)
3. Pique & double lacoste
4. Two thread terry
5. Denim single jersey
6. Three thread fleece

KnittingSection
Page26
Double jersey derivatives
1. (1x1) Rib
2. (1x1) half feeder lycra Rib
3. (1x1)Full feeder lycra Rib
4. (2x1) Rib
5. (2x1) half feeder
6. (2x1) full feeder lycra
7. (2x1) Rib
8. Offal Fabrics
9. I-lack fabric
10. Flat Back Rib
Knitting Parameter & Calculation:
The main parameters & calculations are followed in knitting section, are given below-
Machine or Needle Gauge:
The needle gauge of a knitting machine (also called cut or gage) is a measure expressing the
number of needles per a unit of the needle bed (bar) width express in mm.
( )Gauge, N How many needles are used in one English inch 25.4 mm .
Number of needles
N
One English inch.
Number of needles
N mm.
2.54
=
=
=
Highest needle gauge is about 60 and lowest gauge is about 2 to 2.5.
GSM:
GSM means the weight in gram of one square meter fabric. Mainly it is measured by GSM
cutter & electric balance.

KnittingSection
Page27
Gauge Selection:
Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter. Yarn diameter also depends on sev-
eral factors such as yarn count, fibre type, yarn finishing etc. general practice of yarn count
and machine gauge in different industries in Bangladesh given below:
Yarn count used Machine gauge Yarn count used Machine gauge
16 18 28 22
18 20 28 25
20 20 28 28
20 24 30 22
24 22 30 24
24 24 30 28
26 20 30 34
26 22 34 28
26 24 34 28
26 28
The above values may differ, because it is the results of a research work. There is a relation
between yarn in tex and machine gauge is given by equation,
For
1650
Single Jersey, G
Tex
= and for
1400
Double Jersey, G
Tex
= , where G is measured
in needles per cm.
The yarn count to be used on a circular knitting machine depends largely on the pitch, and
thus on the machine gauge. For any given machine gauge it can lie within a larger range, be-
cause on the same machine different yarn counts can be used, depending on the knitted struc-
ture, the desired optics (fabric appearance) and the fabric properties.
Needle Pitch:
The needle pitch is the distance between two neighboring needles in the same needle bed
(bar), from the centre of a needle to the centre of the neighboring needle express in mm.
( )
( )
1
Needle Pitch Length units / Needles
Needlegauge length unit
=
Loop or Stitch Length:
The length of yarn knitted into one stitch in a weft knitted fabric. Stitch length is theoretically
a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and half the length of yarn (half a
sinker loop) between that needle loop and the adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Gen-
erally, the larger the stitch length the more elastic and lighter the fabric, and the poorer its
cover opacity and bursting strength.
Stitch Length, l One needle loop Two half a sinker loop= +

KnittingSection
Page28
Yarn Count:
Yarn count is a numerical expression of fineness or coarseness of yarn.
Yarn count is calculated in two systems:
• Direct system
• Indirect system
Suitable Yarn Count Selection:
Yarn count is selected by following equation-
For Single Jersey:
( )
4320
Suitable Yarn Count Ne
Finish GSM
=
For Rib (1×1):
( )
6000
Finish GSM
=
For Interlock (plain):
( )
7200
Finish GSM
=
Production Calculation:
It has been expound in the sections above that the output of a circular knitting machine de-
pends on a series of different influencing variables. A wealth of machine data and data on the
fabric to be produced is required for calculating production capacity.
In this respect the cylinder diameter d in inch, the gauge E, the system count S, the machine
rpm n, and the efficiency level ɳ of the circular knitting machine must be known. The follow-
ing data on the fabric produced must also be available:
The construction (e.g. single jersey , rib, purl etc.)
The course density or course /cm and the weight per unit area in gm/m2
.
Production is calculated in accordance with the following equation-

KnittingSection
Page29
Machine rpm No.of feeder Effciency 60
Running Length (L) = m / hr
No.of feeders per course courses per cm 100
× × ×
× ×
Cylinder Diameter in inch Machine Gauge
Fabric width (WB) = Meter
Wales per cm 100
π× ×
×
Running length in meter per hour WB Weight in GSM
Production in Kg, P = Kg / hr
1000
× ×

KnittingSection
Page30
Knitting Procedure for Elastane Single Jersey Fabric:
Procedure-1 for Lycra S/J
Design Setting on Machine (Cam, Needle Arrangement Setting)
Elastane from Elastane Bobbing
Elastane to Sensor
Elastane to Guide
Elastane to Guide
Elastane Bobbin Place on Bobbin StandYarn Cones Place on Creel
Yarn from Cone to Yarn Pipe
Yarn to Feeder
Yarn to Ceramic Eye pot
Yarn & Elastane Feed to Needle
Fabric Rolled on Take-Up Roller
Yarn to Positive Feeder
Ceramic Eye Pot
Knot Catcher
Magnate Pressure
Yarn Wheel (A yarn Storage Device)
Yarn Guide
Sensor
Yarn Guide
Ceramic Eye Pot

KnittingSection
Page31
Knitting Procedure for Single Jersey Fabric (Without Elastane)
Procedure-2 for S/J (No Lycra)
Design Setting on Machine
(Cam, Needle Arrangement Setting)
Yarn Cones Place on Creel
Yarn from Cone to Yarn Pipe
Yarn to Feeder
Yarn to Ceramic Eye pot
Yarn & Elastane Feed to Needle
Fabric Rolled on Take-Up Roller
Yarn to Positive Feeder
Ceramic Eye Pot
Knot Catcher
Magnate Pressure
Yarn Wheel (A yarn Storage Device)
Yarn Guide
Sensor
Yarn Guide
Ceramic Eye Pot

KnittingSection
Page32
Grey Fabric Inspection:
After knitting every roll of grey fabric of each order is inspected for checking “is it meet with
the finishing target or not.” Four point method was used for inspection the fabrics. Four grey
fabric inspection reports for different four orders are given below-
Grey Fabric Inspection Report
Quality Assurance Department
Buyer &
Order
Yarn Fabric
Type
Finish
Dia.
M/C Qty
(Yds)
Size of Fault (F) Total
Penalty
Point
Pt/100
sq yds
&
Grade
F ≤ 3″ 3″ < F≤ 6″ 6″< F ≤ 9″ F > 9″
& Hole
Dunnes
1978 AT
34/1
20D
S/J,
Elas-
tane
74″ 30″×28 G 64 Fl3, C2,
LO2, S4,
OM3
0 0 0 14 (11)
A
Dunnes
2006 AT
34/1
20D
S/J,
Elas-
tane
75″ 30″×28 G 62 Fl3, C2,
S4, OM2
0 0 H2 19 (16)
A
Wool
Worth
1980 AT
30/1
20D
S/J,
Elas-
tane
62″ 30″×28 G 64 Fl4,
LO1, S4,
OM4
0 0 H2 21 (17)
A
Penalty Points Legends:
H = Hole
Fl = Fly
C = Contamination
S = Slub
St = Stripe
LO = Lycra Out
OM = Oil Mark
VM = Vertical Mark
K = Knot
NB = Needle Breakage
LM = Loop Miss
Four Points System: Acceptance Calculation:
Penalty Point/100 sq. yards
TP 36 100
L W
=
x x
x
Here,
TP = Total Penalty Points
L = Total Length
W = Width of the Fabric
Classification,
≤ 40 points = A
41-60 points = B
61-80 points = C
80 Above = Reject
Size of Defect Penalty Point
F ≤ 3″ 1
3″ < F ≤ 6″ 2
6″ < F ≤ 9″ 3
F > 9″ 4
Any Hole 4
Assign 4 point to each consecutive
linear yard in which a continuous
running defect exceeds 9 inches.

Dyeing&Finishing
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Chapter 4
Dyeing & Finishing Section

Dyeing&Finishing
Page34
Northern Fashion Ltd. has a state-of-the-art Dyeing & Finishing Section. The capacity of the
Dyeing section has been rated annually about 21,00,000 kgs of dyed and finished fabric.

Dyeing&Finishing
Page35
Machinery Layout Plan of Dyeing & Finishing
WFBA
DCHMST
SLM
COMP
2COMP
1
D8
D10
D9
D2
D3
D4
D5
D7
D6
D1
FFBA
RLM
WSM
TD
H
ST7
ST6
RD
OFA
QCS
FISP1 FISP2
FISP3
BTS
GFBR
GFBR
RFBR
FTM
MTL
FTL
CP
CP
ST
CP
ST
CP
ST
CP
D
E
N
W
S

Dyeing&Finishing
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Description of Layout (Dyeing & Finishing)
Symbol Description
D1;D9;D10 Sample Dyeing Machine (Dilmenler; ATAC; Thies)
D2 – D8 HT Dyeing Machine (Dilmenler)
H Hydro Extractor
WSM Washing Machine (Babcock) [Under Installation]
FTM Fabric Turning Machine
SLM Slitting Machine
ST7 Stenter Machine (7 Chamber ) [ACC]
ST6 Stenter Machine (6 Chamber ) [Babcock] [Under Installation]
CPST Control Panel for Stenter
CPD Control Panel for Dyeing Machine
COMP1 Compacting Machine
COMP2 Compacting Machine With Rolling Device
RLM Rolling Machine
RD Relax Dryer [Santex]
TD Tumble Dryer
FISP (1-3) Fabric Inspection Machine [Sweden, Thailand]
OFA Office Area
FFBA Finish Fabric Area
WFBA Wet Fabric Area
DCHMST Dyes & Chemicals Store
BTS Batch Section
QCS Quality Control Section
GFBR Grey Fabrics Racks
RFBR Rolled Fabrics Racks
MTL Male Toilet
FTL Female Toilet

Dyeing&Finishing
Page37
Symbol Description
Exit Gate
Exit Way
Column
Chemical Tank

Dyeing&Finishing
Page38
Specification of Dyeing & Finishing Machinery:
SL
No.
Machine Name Brand
Name
Origin Function Capacity
01 Spectrophotometer Data Color USA Recipe Formulation &
Correction
-
02 Ahiba Lab Dip M/C Data Color USA Lab Sample Dyeing 16 pots
03 Lab Dip Machine ATAC Turkey Lab sample Dyeing 12 & 15
pots
04 Crockmeter ATAC Turkey Rubbing Fastness test -
05 Wash Fastness M/C ATAC Turkey Wash Fastness test -
06 Magnetic Mixture
With Hot Plate
ATAC Turkey Solution Mixing 4 pots
07 Tumble Dryer Seimens Germany Tumble Drying (for
lab)
5 kg
08 Washing Machine Seimens Germany Washing (for lab) 5 kg
09 Soft Dryer Zip Australia Drying (for lab) -
10 HT Sample Dyeing
M/C
ATAC Turkey Sample Dyeing 5-10 Kg
11 HT Sample Dyeing
M/C
Thies Germany Sample Dyeing 30-50 Kg
12 HT Sample Dying
M/C
Dilmenlar Turkey Sample Dyeing 25Kg
13 HT Dyeing Machine Dilmenlar (DMS) Turkey Dyeing 50 Kg
14 HT Dyeing Machine Fongs China Dyeing 80-100Kg
45 HT Dyeing Machine Dilmenlar (DMS) Turkey Dyeing 175Kg
20 Rope opening, Slitting,
Dewatering M/C
Bianco Italy To open rope, slitting
& dewatering
-
21 Relax Dryer Santex Swtzerland Fabric drying -
22 Stenter (7 Chamber) ACC Turkey Heat setting, Drying,
GSM, Width check etc
-
23 Stenter (6 chamber) Babcock Germany Heat setting, Drying,
GSM, Width check etc
-
24 Open Width Compac-
tor
Lafer Italy Control, width, GSM,
Shrinkage, spirality etc
-
25 Fabric inspection M/c Greige Sweden Fabric Inspection -
26 Stretch Recovery M/c - Australia Recover the Fabric
Stretch
-
27 Color Cabinet Verivide UK Color Matching, shade
check
-
28 Multi Light Color cab-
inet
- Australia Color Matching, shade
check
-
29 Light fastness Testing
M/c
- Australia Light Fastness Test -

Dyeing&Finishing
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Raw Material for Dyeing & Finishing:
Mainly dyes, chemicals and grey fabrics are raw material for dyeing & finishing. Grey fabric
is supplied from knitting section. Name of dyes & chemicals that is used in Northern Fashion
Ltd. are given below-
Chemicals List:
Sl.No. Brand Name Supplier Name Types of Chemical
01 Acetic Acid M/S LATIFA Ent.
02 Common Salt M/S LATIFA Ent.
03 Glober Salt M/S LATIFA Ent.
04 Caustic Soda M/S LATIFA Ent.
05 Soda Ash M/S LATIFA Ent.
06 Hydrozen Per Oxide (H2O2) ASM Chemical
07 Proder Scpc/LF ASU Chemical Detergent
08 KAPPAQUEST-FE HI-TECHAUXI Sequester
09 KAPPATEX-PKS CHEM Peroxide Killer
10 KAPPAFIX-GG100 CHEM Fixing
11 KAPPASOF-BD CHEM Softener
12 KAPPASOFT-SM CHEM Silicon
13 KAPPAVON-LD-360 CHEM P.Levelling
14 STAGEN-B EIBE-INTER Stabilizer
15 MAXBRTTF-4BK EIB-INTER Brtner
16 FIBRILASE-HD2-160 CYT-RAX-CEH ENZYME
17 LEVELLING GSA LEVELLING
18 FINOSCOOR -OSP SCOURING
19 DENRAW NBP COLOR FUSION SOAPING
20 ALP-CLFAN COLOR FUSION WHITE SCOURING
21 PERAPRET-HVN BASF
22 MEROPAN-KP R.H CORPORA P. ACID
23 SARABID-OL R.H CORPORA P. LEVELLING
24 ANTI FOAB DPK
25 CIBAFIX-ECD
26 SOFTNER-POLYESTER
27 LUBRIMAX-TLF ANTICREASING
28 OXINDL-ALL LEVELLING
29 FASTASOL-RD FIXING
30 OXINDL-894 LEVELLING
31 WINSCOUR-RDC RSK
32 SARABIP-MIP R.H. CORPORA LEVELLING
33 ANTICRESAE-200 ELBE-INTER ANTICREASING
34 LEKOL-SN ELBE-INTER LEVELLING

Dyeing&Finishing
Page40
Dyes List:
S.L. No. Name of Dyes Supplier
1 Reactive Red 6Bl Color Fushion
2 Reactive Yellow 4GL Color Fushion
3 Reactive Orange Me 2RL Color Fushion
4 Reactive yellow AYl Color Fushion
5 Elbezol Orange F2R Total –GUA
6 Evazol Yellow 3RS Evershion
7 Evazol Brill Red 3BS Evershion
8 Evazol Black B Evershion
9 Evazol Black ED-R Evershion
10 Evazol T. Blue G Evershion
11 Evazol Blue RSPL Evershion
12 Evazol Yellow ED -2G Evershion
13 Evazol Yellow -LX Evershion
14 Evazol Red -LX Evershion
15 Evazol Blue -LX Evershion
16 Evazol Navy -LX Evershion
17 Evazol Red F3B Evershion
18 Evazol Orange F2 Evershion
19 Evazol Blue ED Evershion
20 Rema Yellow RR M.F. Enterprise
21 Rema Red RR M. F. Enterprise
22 Rema Orange RR M.F. Enterprise
23 Imcozine Red E3BF Total Quality Resources
24 Imcozine Yellow E3R Total Quality Resources
25 Imcozine Blue ENR Total Quality Resources
26 Imcozine N Blue E2G Total Quality Resources
27 Imcozine Orange E2R Total Quality Resources
28 Lartive Red MRL MYL Enterprise
29 Lartive Yellow MYL MYL Enterprise
30 Lartive Blue MBL MYL Enterprise
31 Bezaltive Red VBN R.H. Corporation
32 Bezaltive Yellow V2R R.H. Corporation
33 Bezaltive Blue V2B R.H. Corporation
34 Bezaltive Orange V3R R.H. Corporation
35 Bezaltive T.Blue VG R.H. Corporation
36 Bezaltive Blue v RSP R.H. Corporation
37 Everzol Yellow ED Evershine
38 Everzol Navy ED Evershine
39 Everzol Red-LF-2B Evershine
40 Everzol Red ED 3B Evershine
41 Everzol yellow –ED R Evershine
42 Rema Blue RR M.F. Enterprise

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Dyeing Parameter & Calculation:
The things which influence the effective coloration of textile materials with reactive dye are
called as parameters of dyeing. These include –Temperature, Time, Liquor ratio, pH of the
bath etc. A brief description about them is given below-
Effects of Temperature:
Temperature of the dye bath plays vital role for dyeing. Rise in temperature has a large effect
on an increase in the diffusion rate of dyes into fabrics. Increasing of temperature increases
the rate of dyeing & of the dye migration. Higher dyeing temperature ensures the good leve-
ling & better penetration of dye in to the fibers. But the temperature depends on the types of
dyes adapted in the dye bath. For Example- in case of hot brand dyestuff the dosing tempera-
ture of dye is 80ºC and for cold brand dye temperature is kept 60ºC.
Effects of pH:
In the case of most popular fiber reactive dyes, a high PH actually activates the cellulose (cot-
ton) fiber, forming a cellulosate anion, which can then attack the dye molecule, leading to a
reaction that produces a strong, permanent covalent bond. Without a high pH, the dye will not
fix permanently to the cellulose fiber. For this reason Sodium Carbonate (Na2CO3) [Some
time mixed alkali such as (NaOH + Na2CO3)] is used for no other reason than to increase the
PH of the dye reaction, so that the fiber will react with the dye. Basically during the color ad-
dition, the PH of the bath remains at near about 6, but after adding alkali it goes rise to pH
11.4 & this is the critical stage in which the dye molecules fix up with the fiber.
Effects of Material: Liquor Ratio (M : L):
Dye bath exhaustion increases with the decreasing of liquor ratio. Dyeing at low liquor ratio
decreases the amount of waste dyes & chemicals in the effluent. Because higher the liquor
ratio greater the amount of g/l of chemicals which increases the volume of effluent. To get rid
from this problem Then Air flow Dyeing machine is getting popular in our country which can
dyeing at 1:3 Materials: Liquor ratio. But in case of Thies Jet Dyeing machine it can possible
up to 1: 5 Materials: liquor ratio.
Effects of Time:
The time for dyeing also the vital one. A specific Time adjusted with the temperature, very
much needed for better dyeing. For this reason color dosing takes place in 20 minutes (may
vary process to process) & Specific run time is set for dyeing.

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Shrinkage:
A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of a specimen subjected
to specified condition is known shrinkage.
Spirality:
If the wales of the knitted fabric are not perpendicular to the course and skew to the right or
left spirality occurs in the fabric. This creates serious problem, especially in the apparel in-
dustry.
Dyeing Calculation:
g / Total liquor
Required chemical
Stock Soluation % 1000
l×
=
×
Required Dye Material weight Shade %= ×
Conversion of % to gm/l:
X 10
X% ={ }gm /
Liquor ratio (only L value)
l
×
Conversion of gm/l to %:
X Liquor ratio (only L value)
X gm / ={ }%
Liquor ratio (only L value)
l
×

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Page43
Dyeing Laboratory
Laboratory:
Lab is the most important section of a dying industry. Higher precision lab can aid easily to
achieve the goal of the organization. Before bulk production a sample for the approval from
industry is sent to the buyer. As per requirement of the buyer the shade is prepared in a lab
considering the economical aspect.
The Main Objectives of a Textile Dyeing Laboratory:
To develop standard operating procedures (SOP) for all the products which are to be
processed in a dye house.
Dyestuffs evaluation.
Color matching together with process and product development.
To provide training ground for production and laboratory technicians.
Process optimization and cost reduction through process modifications and develop-
ing or testing newer techniques and products.
In process checks of important quality parameters affecting the quality, efficiency,
cost etc and monitoring.
Quality control of all raw materials consumed and also all processed material in terms
of color and fastness.

Dyeing&Finishing
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Machinery Layout Plan of Dyeing Lab
18
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12 13
14 15
16
19
20
21
22
17
11
23
24
25
25
25
N
W
S
E

Dyeing&Finishing
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Description of Layout (Dyeing Lab)
Symbol Description
1 Assistant General Manager Office
2 Spectrophotometer Room
3 Spectrophotometer
4 Dark Room
5 Wash Fastness Tester
6 Auto Lab Dispenser
7 Tumble Dryer
8 Lab Dyeing Machine (ATAC)
9 Light Box
10 Yarn Testing Machine
11 Basin
12 Shelf for Chemicals
13 Sample Fabric Area
14 Water Heater
15 Auto Mixer
16 Dryer
17 Table for Solution Preparation
18 Desk for Lab Incharge
19 Dryer
20 Lab Dyeing Machine (ATAC)
21 Lab Dyeing Machine (datacolor)
22 Stress Recovery Tester
23 Desk for Quality Control Manager
24 Desk for Production Officer
25 Shelf for documents
Rubbing Tester
Exist Gate
GSM Cutter
Light Fastness Tester
Electric Balance

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Page46
Flow Chart for Lab Dip Development:
Merchandiser sent Swatch or Color Code
Swatch Received by lab Incharge
Detecting the shade using either Spectropho-
tometer or Pantone book
Recipe formulation
(3-4 recipes closer to each other)
Sample Dyeing
Match the Sample with Shade
Sent Swatch for Buyer Approval
If OK, Go for Bulk Production

Dyeing&Finishing
Page47
Process Flow for Dyeing & Finishing:
Merchandiser sent Swatch or Color Code to the Lab Incharge
Lab Incharge Developed at least 3 Lab Dip (A, B & C)
Information Sent to Bulk
Lab Dip Sent for Buyer Approval
If not
OKBuyer Approved A or B or C
Batching for Bulk Production
Sample Dyeing & Finishing with Quality Control
Stentering
Scouring & Bleaching
Dyeing
Rope Opening, Slitting and Dewatering
Compacting
Storing the Finished Fabric
Quality Inspection

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Page48
Grey Fabric Store & Batch Section:
In Northern Fashion Ltd. Grey fabric store and Batch section works along with. Where the
fabrics are arranged by type of fabrics & buyer order after completing grey fabric inspection.
Fabrics are separated by roll or lot. Every face of lot or rolls contains-
Fabric types
Yarn count
Fabric GSM
Fabric faults name
Lot number
Roll number
This section maintains a card for every lot which contains the information about fabrics.

Dyeing&Finishing
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Batch section is a vital section for fabric dyeing. Batching is a separation for fabrics roll ac-
cording to dyeing machine. Normally its separation depends of the number of nozzle. This
section is always tried to give same weight of fabrics for every nozzle.
Function of Batch Section:
To receive the grey fabric roll form knitting or other source.
Turn the gray fabric if require.
Prepare the batch for dyeing according to the following criteria:
- Order sheet (Received from buyer)
- Dyeing shade ( light or dark, color or white)
- Machine capacity.
- Type of fabric ( 100% Cotton, CVC, Stripe fabric)
- Fabric dia. and rope length
- Emergency order.
- Fabric construction (single jersey, Rib, Lycra Rib, Lacost, PK etc.)
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
To keep record.

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Proper Batching Criteria:
• To try same rope length for each nozzle.
• To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing machine.
• To minimize preparation time & machine stoppage time.
• To use a particular machine for dyeing same shade.
Turning machine
This tubular turning machine is for turning tubular knit fabric before dyeing and drying after.
As knit fabric material is handled by the air force, there is no fear of damage during opera-
tion.
Speciation:
Made of stainless steel, the main pipe can stand up permanently without rusting.
Operation is easy and safe.
Air flow initiation or termination is instantly effected by the press of the ON or OFF
push-button, or the moment the material fabric reaches the eject roller.
There is no lingering air consumption.
Air flow direction is designed to automatically switch upon alteration of the position
of the curved pipe, as they are interlocked with each other.

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Dyeing Machine:
DMS 11 HT JUMBO FABRIC DYEING MACHINE (RDS):
HT Jumbo is a winch dyeing machine. HT Jumbo is designed and manufactured with the lat-
est high technology for dyeing any kind of open width fabric made of natural, synthetic and
their blends such as open width knitted cotton and cotton lycra, viscouse and viscouse lycra
and all kind of towell fabric and bathmad etc.
DMS 11 JUMBO (RDS) presents the latest technical achievement on dyeing both knitted and
woven fabrics to produce high quality level materials at a compatible cost.
DMS 11 HT JUMBO is able to process fabrics in the range from 70 g/m up to 2300 g/m in
weight by choosing the right nozzle say. Machine is available in various capacities starting
from 25 Kg upto 2000 Kg on both high and low temperature design. Machine`s body and all
wetted parts made of highly corrosion resisted stainless steel AISI 316 L, in accordance with
American ASME and European (CE) norms.
DMS 11 HT JUMBO FABRIC DYEING MACHINE (RDS)

Dyeing&Finishing
Schematic Diagram of DMS 11 HT JUMBO FABRIC DYEING MACHINE (RDS)

Dyeing&Finishing
Page53
Basic Principle of DMS 11 HT Jumbo Dyeing Machine:
The basic principle of DMS 11 HT dyeing machines is to have a number of loops or
ropes of the fabric in the dye bath, these ropes are of equal length, which are mostly
immersed in the liquor in the bath.
The upper part of each rope runs over two reels which are mounted over dye bath. At
the front of the machine, above the top of the dye liquor, is a smaller reel, which is
called jockey or fly roller. The fly roller remains freewheeling along with fabric rope.
At the back of winch tank is the winch wheel, which pulls the fabric rope from the
dye bath over the jockey reel for dropping in the dye bath for immersion.
From the dropped location, the fabric rope travels back. To be lifted and fed to winch
wheel.
The dyeing process on winch dyeing machines is based on higher M: L as compared
with other dyeing machines.
The process is conducted with very little tension.
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Dyeing Machine:
Work should be done before running machine.
1. Clean the machine.
2. Clean additional tank & filter.
3. Switch ON the main switch.
4. Open the steam, water & air bulb.
5. Run the machine.
6. Check the pneumatic bulb is it work properly
7. Have any bad sound in machine? Check it.
8. Start the production process
9. Close the all bulb after ending the process.
10. Switch OFF Emergency switch.
11. OFF the main power
12. Don’t touch electric switch on wet hand.

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Machine Operating Rules & Regulation for Dyeing Machine:
1. Machine should be kept always clean.
2. Before opening machine door or reel following point should be considered-
a. Machine pressure should be at 0.
b. Temperature should be below at 80ºC
c. Water level should be kept under machine door.
3. Electric component should be safe from water during machine cleaning.
4. After cleaning machine filter dust should be kept in specific drum.
5. If any problem is observed in dyeing machine, the information should be sent to
maintenance department as soon as possible. Operator must not be accessed electric
control panel in any condition.
6. After ending process and before going operator must be clean the machine.
7. If it is needed that machine will be stopped for few days, machine should be kept with
filling water upto midlevel.

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Page55
Rope Opening, Slitting & Dewatering Machine:
Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended brake
Wales lime on length wise direction prior to stenter processing.
Bianco Rope opening, Slitting & Dewatering Machine

Dyeing&Finishing
Page56
Machine Function:
Open the fabric from the rope form.
Reduce the water content
To slit the fabric from tube form
Apply overfeed to give some compaction.
Width-wise stretch the fabric.
Plait the fabric
Schematic Diagram of Rope opening, Slitting & Dewatering Machine

Dyeing&Finishing
Page57
Function of Machine Parts:
J-Box: Squeeze the fabric to reduce the water contains. Water reducing percentage
depends on J-Box pressure.
Detwister: By the detwister rope formed fabric become untwists form. (due to action
of sensor)
Hand Wheel: It is manual and used for guiding the rotary blade.
Turn Wheel: It controls the fabric rotation
Rotary Blade: To cut the fabric through break wales line.
Ring: To help cutting.
Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting
Plaiter: To plait the fabric.
Sensor: Sense for cutting through break wales line.
Basic Operation Principle:
The bianco tensionless tubular fabric slitting and opening lines are used after the wash
process or the dyeing station.
1. The fabric, placed in a basket in rope form.
2. It is made to pass through the squeezing unit where most of the impregnation liquid is
extracted.
3. Then it enters the detwister, which eliminates the tension of the rope and is prepared
for the slitting and spreading processes.
4. The container is placed on a platform whose rotation, synchronized with the action of
the detwister, untwists the rope preceding the entrance to the detwister.
5. The latter is placed at the top of the structure, for optimal distance from the automatic
slitter, so as to enhance the effectiveness of rope detwisting and spreading.
6. Then the untwist form fabric is transferred to the basket by means of motorized belts
and then it moves on towards the slitter without stresses that would can be widened
upto a diameter of 80 cm.
7. The cutting line can be controlled by means of basket rotation.

Dyeing&Finishing
Page58
8. Pick the fabric leaving the tensionless basket and with the aid of a beater, plaits it on
to the conveyor belt making for enhanced relaxation of the fabric.
9. From conveyor belt fabric is passed through dogal centering roller (It constitutes a
compacata fabric centering system, with faster centering action and enhanced efficacy
compared to traditional centering devices.)
10. The open with fabric is passed through squeezing system to extract the greatest possi-
ble quantity of impregnation liquid from the fabric, by squeezing it between two rub-
ber coated rollers. (It structure is highly compact and sturdy, and it can be made either
of iron or of stainless steel).
11. After squeezing the fabric it go to the plaiter to plait on a trolley.
Checking Parameter:
Cutting Line Check: Operator checks fabric cutting line. Rotary blade cut fabric through
wales line or not.
Bow and Slant Check: Operator checks bow and slant at delivery side.
Faults Check: As mentioned earlier.

Dyeing&Finishing
Page59
Stenter Machine:
ACC Stenter Machine

Dyeing&Finishing
Page60
In ACC Stenter knitted and woven fabrics used in finishing and shrinkage of the stabilities
that world-class, quality and technological stenter machine. Argonomik operating platform,
the operator's use of the machine is designed to provide the most ideal way. All command
and control of the machine belongs to the ACC software platfomda bulunmaktadır.Bütün
Turkish software program "touch-screen" screen contains the following details about the con-
trol over this.
Basic Working Principal of Stenter:
The stenter line has units: 2 padders, 1 weft straightener, 1 tenter and drying chambers. There
are also steaming, selvedge degumming and curing arrangement. At least padder is simply
wash with water. The squeeze pressure normally 5 bars. In two padder the fabric is treated
with softener. The fabric is passed through tenter. There are two steams along fabric width
that apply steam from below fabric. There are gumming unit before drying chamber. In sten-
ter, fabric enters in drying chambers by gripping with chain pin and with over feed/ under
feed that is with more controlled conditions. The drying chamber has 7 units. Generally tem-
perature kept about 150 – 200 ºC. The fabric comes out form chamber by tenter chains grip-
ping with pins. Before delivery the fabric is removed from the tenter chains by unpinning
rollers and then the cutting units cut the additional fabric from the gummed sides. Now at de-
livery side there is an antistatic arrangement to remove static electricity from heated fabric.
Function of Stenter:
Apply chemical and softener
To dart set the T/C fabric
Drying of fabric
To control width
Curing of fabric
Apply pigment dyeing
To control GSM
To control shrinkage
To decrease spirality
To decrease bowing effect
Surface coating for teflon finish
Apply soil release chemical finish
Heat set for cotton/lycra fabric

Dyeing&Finishing
Page61
Main Parts of Stenter:
1. Feed Zone:
- Centering device
2. Chemical Padding Zone:
- Squeezing roller
- Chemical tray
3. Bowing Control Zone:
- Bowing roller (Rubber rollers, number of roller 2)
- Sensor (no of sensor 6)
- Uncurling roller
4. Chin Entry Zone:
- Uncurling device (both side of the chain entry)
- Sensor (both side of the chain entry)
- Brush roller (for attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain, no of brush
roller 4)
- Selvedge gumming device with gum box under chain entry.
5. Drying Zone (gas burner 10) Cooling Zone.
6. Cooling Zone
7. Delivery Zone
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Stenter Machine:
Work should be done before running machine.
1. Clean the machine (inner & outer side.)
2. Switch ON the main switch.
3. ON the Gas & Air line bulb.
4. Have any bad sound in machine? Check it.
5. Check conveyor belt, it is ok or not.
6. Run the machine.
7. After raising temperature at a specific state start running the fabric
8. Close the all bulb after ending the operation.

Dyeing&Finishing
Page62
9. Cool the machine at running state by running blower at least for one hour.
10. Switch OFF Emergency switch.
11. OFF the main power
12. Don’t touch, machine & machine switch on wet hand or foot.

Dyeing&Finishing
Page63
Compacting Machine:
Lafer Compacting Machine

Dyeing&Finishing
Page64
Function:
To control shrinkage
To control width
To control GSM
To smooth fabric
Heat setting of fabric for lycra
Checking Parameter:
1. Shade Check: In delivery side operator checks the shade of fabric with customer ap-
proved swatch.
2. With Check: Operator measures fabric width by using measuring tape and compared
with required width.
3. Wight Check: Operator checks the weight by using GSM cutter and electronic bal-
ance & compares with the required finished width.
4. Fault Check: As mentioned before
5. Design & Slanting: Operator checks design and slanting at delivery side.
6. Edge line checking: check two edges of fabric at delivery side.
Table: Treatment Condition According to the Type of Material
Fibre Composition Cylinder Temp. ( ºC) Steam Quantity
Cotton 100% 130-150 High
Cotton –Acrylic 80-90 Medium
Cotton-Wool 80-110 Medium
Wool-Cotton-Polyamide 80-110 Medium
Viscose-Cotton 90-130 Low
Viscose-Wool 90-110 Low

Dyeing&Finishing
Page65
FUNCTIONAL SELECTION LEGEND
1 – Fabric Brake 13 – Felt Centering Rollers
2 – Fabric Feeding roller 14 – Felt Tensioning Rollers
3 – Beater 15 – Heated Roller
4 – Safety Photocell indicating Lack
of Fabric
16 – Felt Drawing Rollers Covered with Rubber
5 – Fabric Conveyor Belt 17 – Rollers with Loading Cell for automatic Fabric Tension
Control
6 – Photocell Loop Control 18 – Exit Belt Drawing Roller
7 – Operator Platform 19 – Fabric Conveyor Belt
8 – Re – directing Roller 20 – Movable Arms
9 – Automatic Spreader Mod. AL-
BATROS
21 – Fabric Conveyance Hopper
10 – Steaming Chamber 22 – Plaiting Roller
11 – Motorized Adjustable Rollers 23 – Fold Pressing Device
12 – Felt Re – directing Adjustable
Rollers
24 – Plaiting Platform
OPTION:
A – Ring Spreader for Tubular Fabric C – Cardboard Positioning Device
B – Cooling Chamber at Exit D – Cutting Device
Schematic Diagram of Compactor

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Technical Description of the Basic Compacting Machine:
The machine include the following units
A) Support Structure:
It consists of sturdy body sides made of painted steel, supporting the cylinders, the
mechanical part and the plant system; they are connected by means of longitudinal
and transversal cross-section. The body sides are provided with special safety locks.
B) Inlet Tightener:
The inlet tightner is designed to drag the fabric to the machine with an adequate ten-
sion. Its effect can be varied by turning the hand wheel provided.
C) Fabric Draw Roller:
The draw rollers receive their movement from a variable speed motor. They deter-
mine the speed of fabric.
- The rollers are normally covered with rubber and it is most important that the sur-
face of the covering is always in good condition so ass to avoide slipping of the
fabric. Should this not be so then it is necessary to replace the covering.
- The processing of fabrics treated with chemical against might involve a rapid de-
terioration of the drag rolls coating.
D) Idle Cylinders:
The idle cylinders are designed to change the route of the fabric to convey it in the
right position for subsequent working.
E) Dancing Roller Synchroniser
The dancing roller is constituted by a cylinder mounted on oscillating arm, connected
to a rheostat for the synchronisation of the various group.
F) Inlet fabric Guide
It consists of shoulders supporting a couple of adjustable spreader rollers operated by
an independent motor, and a pneumatically operated fabric centering unit with move-
able staves, controlled by border guard photocells.
G) Steaming Tank
It consist of no. 1 steam delivery chamber on the fabric, made of inox steel and com-
plete with metering valve and on-off solenoid valve.

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H) Compacting Units
They are the real compacting units. Each unit consists of:
- A steam heated cylinder, diameter 500 mm., made of chromium plated and ground
steel; it is complete with a rotary joint for steam feeding, a thermocouple feeler to
feel the temperature, and an effective system for the condensate drainage. The cy-
linder temperature can be adjusted with the utmost (+/- 2˚C) directly from the
keyboard placed on the control board, and is shown on the display.
- A thick Nomex – Polyester compacting felt. The double action felt centering de-
vice ensures perfect felt alignment during running. The computer controlled felt
control mechanisms automatically releases felt tension after a machine stop.
- An adjustable position counter-roller for the fabric shrinkage control during inlet
in the compacting group.
- An inlet element in a special non-adherent fibre (shoe) equipped with a device for
adjusting both angle of incidence and insertion length.
I) Spreader Roller
It is a spreader roller, for the selvedge unwinding and the inlet of the fabric perfectly
spread in the machine.
J) Scroll Roll Unit
The adjustable spreading scrolls at entry are used for open width knits and for all fa-
brics that have lengthwise creases. Consists of two adjustable spiral scroll roll driven
by an independent motor.
K) Device for Fabric Tension Check
It consists of a cylinder combined with a special load cell sensor. It allows synchro-
nizing the speed between the upper and lower compacting unit, and adjusting the fa-
bric tension between them with the utmost precision. The adjustment is performed di-
rectly from the keyboard placed on the control board and is shown on the display.
L) Cooling Unit
It consists of a steel structure including a conveyer belt, the drag and tension cylinders
Of the latter, a suction chamber with a net plane for a perfect distribution of the cool-
ing air. The chamber is connected to a high- efficiency centrifugal electric fan.

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M) Antistatic Bars.
The bars which are usually mounted on the folding unit arms, will eliminate the elec-
trostatic changes of the fabric.
N) Checking Table:
The inspection table is composed by a steel structure that supports a table that accom-
panies the fabric falling from the cooling band. In this phase the operator placed in the
rolling up unit zone can carry out a check on the quality of the worked fabric and no-
tice possible defects.
O) Fabric Storage Chute for the System Non-Stop:
It consists of a j-plate for the fabric storage during the phase of roll change. It allows
removing the finished roll, and starting a new roll without stopping the system.
P) Rolling Unit
It consists of a bearing structure and a moveable trolley which supports the rolling cy-
linders. The trolley sides on two rails in order to allow the perfect alignment of a sel-
vedge on the roll of fabric. The movement is automatically controlled and is operated
by an electromechanical actuator. The reading of the selvedge border is performed by
two photocells, whose position can be adjusted by means of a hand wheel. The rolling
cylinders are covered with vulcanized rubber for a perfect adhesion. The roll compac-
tedness can be adjusted by a pneumatically operated device. The rolling unit is com-
plete with a spreader roller, operated by an independent motor, placed immediately
before the rolling cylinders.
Q) Steam System
It is installed in the machine. It includes a filter, an on-off valve, a pressure gauge for
displaying the line pressure and a condensate separator. It is provided with a series of
servo-operated solenoid valves to feed the different elements of the machine and wit
automatic steam traps complete with by-pass for manual drainage.
R) Controls
The main controls are located on the left side at the machine entry; they include a
“Touch Screen” interface and a set of buttons. The auxiliary controls are placed on the
panel at the machine exit. The emergency stop buttons are located on the sides of the
machine.

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S) Electric Board
The electric board is installed in the machine. It includes the electromechanical instal-
lation, electronic cards, a set of inverters and the PLC controlling the machine.
It is also equipped with protection devices, and cooling devices. All operation func-
tion is shown in the “Touch Screen” on the main control board.
The machine is equipped with a direct grounding of all the electric components and of
the metal frame.
The preventive measures to ensure immunity in the presence of electromagnetic dis-
turbances have been adopted, and have been taken the necessary precautions to atte-
nuate the disturbances of an electromagnetic nature produced by the electric/ electron-
ic system of the machine
T) Pneumatic System
It includes an on-off valve, a filter-lubrication unit, a pressure regulator and a series of
solenoid valves for the operation of the pneumatic actuators.
Technical Description of the Options
A) Conveyor Belt and Folding Unit
It consists of a pressure bent steel structure, including a polyester conveyer belt to
convey the fabric without any tension from the cooling unit till the folding unit with
rocking arms. The belt is controlled by a drag cylinder.
B) Meter-Counter
This device can be installed in the outlet unit, to check the length in meters of the fa-
bric worked.
C) Antisquashing and Antiglossy Device
This is a special device, patented by Lafer, which prevents the undesired glossy effect
on acrylic fibres on the fabric at the compacting unit outlet. The system is complete
with a steaming device, used to freshen up the pile and assembled in the cooling belt,
just before the unit.

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Troubleshoot:
Table: Troubleshoot of compacting
Problem Possible Cause Possible Solutions
The machine does not
start pressing start but-
ton.
Emergency enabled. See the
causes of the alarm in the in-
terface.
Remove the causes of the press the
<< Restart>> push-button
Selvedge rolled up Spreader roller unit without
incidence on the fabric.
By means of the special hand
wheel, adjust the unit incidence.
Fabric not centered in
the machine inlet.
Stave centering unit not work-
ing.
Check the pressure of compressed
air feeding.
Check if the cylinder is turning and
the staves are sliding on the sup-
ports.
Check the start of wear of the rub-
ber stave.
Check the operation of the fabric
border reading photocells.
Presence of drops on
the fabric
Steaming tanks forming con-
densate.
Check the steam line pressure.
Check the efficiency of the instal-
lation and of the steam traps.
Check that the tank heating line is
efficient and not clogged.
Longitudinal lines on
the fabric
Inlet shoes worn out Cut the end worn out in a clear-cut
and continuous way.
Transversal lines all
over the width
Excessive angle of inlet shoes Decrease the angle by means of the
graduated hand wheel.
Felt right hand or left
hand side-slip
Pneumatic cylinders broken
down
Check the compressed air line
pressure.
Felt belt taper Move the support of the belt tigh-
tening pneumatic cylinder
Side-slip control device bro-
ken down
Check whether the unit is loose or
whether the feeler rod is correctly
positioned
Compacting loss
Excessive tension set on the
load cell
Decreased the valve through the
interface.
Load cell or control electronic
card damaged
Replace the load cell or the elec-
tronic card.
Too much tension on the syn-
chronizing dandy rollers
Check the dandy roller balance
weight
Cylinder temperature Check the valves or the steam
traps.
Folds spread after the
2nd
heated cylinder
Not enough tension on the
load cell
Adjust the valve through the inter-
face.
Excessive shrinkage in
width at the outlet
Excessive inlet steam Dose the steam to the sprayer by
means of the hand wheel

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Problem Possible Cause Possible Solutions
Fabric not cooled at
the outlet
Electric fan non-suction Check the rotation of the fan motor
Cooling belt wearing
out in the borders
Excessive tension between the
belt cylinders
Loosen the tension by adjusting the
tightener slide.
Roll not centered at
the outlet
Outlet photocell centering
unit broken down.
Check the operation of the fabric
border reading photocells
Too much or not
enough compact roll at
the outlet
Low or high tension in the
clutch unit of the rolling cy-
linders
Operate on the regulator placed on
door on the box side.
Machine Operating Rules & Regulation for Compacting Machine:
1. Machine should be kept always clean.
2. Knot & very much course stitch containing fabrics should not be feed to the machine.
3. Machine should not be stopped until the temperature decrease at 65ºC
4. Teflon should be cleaned minimum two times in a day.
5. Load value of load cell should be check.
6. Machine inlet steam should be between 4 – 6 bars.
7. Electric component should be safe from water during machine cleaning.
8. If any problem is observed in dyeing machine, the information should be sent to
maintenance department as soon as possible. Operator must not be accessed electric
control panel in any condition.

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Batch Flow-up History
There are three batches dyeing recipe & dyeing program are given below-
Order sheet:
There are summary of three order given below-
All fabrics of an order were dyed under same recipe, same program & same machine setting.
Which order was dyed under which recipe and program, are showing below in a table
Recipe & dyeing program history .
Buyer Order No. Recipe Name Dyeing Program Name
Dunnes 1978 AT Recipe – 1 Program – 1
Dunnes 2006 AT Recipe – 2 Program – 2
Wool Worth 1980 AT Recipe – 3 Program – 3
Details of these recipe and program are given below:-
S.L.
No.
Buyer Order/
Job No.
Fabric
Description
Composition Color/
Code
Dia. Fabric
Quantity
(kg)
Cut able
(Inch.)
Finish
(Inch.)
1 Dunnes 1978 AT Pique
200 GSM
95% Cotton +
5% Elastane
Aqua 72 74 863
2 Dunnes 2006 AT Single Jersey
180 GSM
95% Cotton +
5% Elastane
Chocolate 73 75 6479
3 Wool
Worth
1980 AT Single Jersey
200 GSM
95% Cotton +
5% Elastane
Black 60 62 1730

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Table: Dyeing recipe for aqua color dyeing (Buyer: Dunnes)
Recipe – 1 (for Aqua Color Dyeing)
Buyer Name Dunnes Order No. 1978 AT Fabric Type Elastane Pk
Color Aqua M : L 1 : 8 Fabric Wt. 863 kg Total Liquor 6904 Liter
S.L.
No.
Name of Dyes & Chemicals Chemical Type Amount
(g/l or %)
Total Amount
(kg)
Pre -Treatment
1 Proder SCPC/LF Wetting Agent +
Detergent
1.0 g/l 6.90
2 Kappaquest-FE Sequestering Agent 1.0 g/l 6.90
3 Anticresae-200 Anti Creasing Agent 1.0 g/l 6.90
4 Stagen-B Stabilizer 0.50 g/l 3.45
5 Caustic Soda (NaOH) Alkali 1.0 g/l 6.90
6 Soda Ash Alkali 3.0 g/l 20.71
7 Hydrozen Per Oxide (H2O2) Bleaching Agent 4.0 g/l 27.62
8 Kappatex- PKS Per Oxide Clearer 0.40 g/l 2.76
9 Acetic Acid Alkali Neutralizer,
Ph Controller
0.80 g/l 5.52
10 Fibrilase-HD2-160 Enzyme 0.30 g/l 2.1
Dyeing
11 Levelling GSA Leveling Agent 0.086 % 0.74
12 Oxindl-All Leveling Agent 2.0 g/l 13.81
15 Everzol Yellow ED 2g Dye 0.02 % 0.173
16 Everzol Turkish Blue G Dye 0.24% 2.07
17 Gluber Salt Electrolyte 11 g/l 75.94
18 Soda Ash Alkali 6 g/l 41.42
After Treatment
19 Acetic Acid Alkali Neutralizer 0.80 g/l 5.52
20 Winscour-RDC Soaping Agent 1.0 g/l 6.90
21 Kappafix - GG 100 Fixing Agent 1.0 g/l 6.90
22 Kappasof - BD Softener 1.0 % 8.63

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Table: Dyeing recipe for chocolate color dyeing (Buyer: Dunnes)
Recipe – 2 (for Chocolate Color Dyeing)
Buyer Name Dunnes Order No. 2006 AT Fabric Type Elastane S/J
Color Chocolate M : L 1 : 8 Fabric Wt. 837 kg Total Liquor 6696 Liter
S.L.
No.
(g/l or %)
Total Amount
(kg)
Pre -Treatment
Detergent
0.50 g/l 3.35
3 Hydrose Reducing Agent 1.0 g/l 6.7
Detergent
1.20 g/l 8.04
7 Stagen-B Stabilizer 0.50 g/l 3.35
8 Caustic Soda (NaOH) Alkali 1.0 g/l 6.7
10 Hydrozen Per Oxide (H2O2) Bleaching Agent 4.0 g/l 26.78
11 Kappatex- PKS Per Oxide Clearer 0.30 g/l 2.01
Ph Controller
1.0 g/l 6.7
Dyeing
18 Everzol Yellow EDR Dye 2.8 % 23.44
19 Everzol Red ED 3D Dye 1.2% 10.04
20 -9% Everzol Navy ED Dye 1.4% 10.67
After Treatment
Topping Recipe
Pre – Treatment

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Dyeing
29 Levelling GSA Leveling Agent 0.095% 0.795
33 Everzol Yellow EDR Dye 2.8% 23.44
34 Everzol Red ED 3D Dye 1.2% 10.04
35 -9% Everzol Navy ED Dye 1.4% 10.67
After Treatment
41 Kappasof - BD Softener 1.0% 8.37

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Table: Dyeing recipe for black color dyeing (Buyer: Wool Worth)
Recipe – 3 (for Black Color Dyeing)
Buyer Name Wool Worth Order No. 1980 AT Fabric Type Elastane S/J
Color Black M : L 1 : 8 Fabric Wt. 1051 kg Total Liquor 8400 Liter
S.L.
No.
(g/l or %)
Total Amount
(kg)
Pre -Treatment
1 Finoscoor -OSP Soaping Agent 1.50 g/l 16.0
Ph Controller
1.0 g/l 8.40
Dyeing
7 -5% Everzol Black EDR Dye 4.8 % 47.925
8 +5% Everzol Red 3BS Dye 0.36 % 3.954
9 Everzol Yellow 3RS Dye 1.6 % 16.774
After Treatment
13 Finoscoor -OSP Soaping Agent 2.5 g/l 26.00

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Dyeing Program:
Program – 1 (for Aqua Color Dyeing)
Fabric loading and fill water
Drain
Fill water (according to liquor ratio)
Temperature is raised at 50 ˚C and wetting agent, anti-
creasing agent, stabilizer, sequestering agent are added by
inject dosing.
NaOH & Soda ash is added by linear dosing
Temperature is raised at 70 ˚C
Per-Oxide is added by inject dosing
Temperature is raised at 110 ˚C and Run time 40 – 50 min.
Cooling at 90 ˚C
Sample Check [if ok then go for next step and if not ok then
run for next 10 min. & check sample again]
Rinse wash [3 – 4 times]
Drain

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Per-Oxide Clearer is added by inject
Temperature is raised at 90 ˚ C and Run time 10 min.
Drain
Fill water according to liquor ratio
Acetic Acid is added by inject at 50 ˚C and
Run time 10 min
pH check [Range 4 – 4.5]
Enzyme is added by inject
Temperature is raised at 55 ˚C and Run time 60 min.
Sample check [if ok then go for next step and if not ok then
Enzyme hot at 80 ˚C and Run time 10 min.
Drain

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pH check [Range 6.5 – 7]
Leveling, anti creasing & sequestering agent is added at 55
˚C by inject and Run time 10 min.
Salt dosing at 80 ˚C during 10 min.
Run time 20 min.
Dye is added by linear dosing during 30 min.
Run time 20 min.
Temperature is decreased at 60 ˚C
Soda is added by progressive (3) dosing during 35 min.
Run time 10 min.
Sample check [Sample is checked in every 10 min. interval at
same temperature. It less fixation take place of any color then
temperature is increased that is suitable for fixation of that
color]
Bath Drop if sample is ok

Dyeing&Finishing
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Drain
Fill according to liquor ratio
Hot wash at 80 ˚C – 90 ˚C [If shade is darker then soaping
agent may use to make the shade slight lighter]
Sample check [If ok then go for next step and if not ok then
take necessary steps]
Hot wash for 10 min at 80 ˚C [no chemical is used]
Drain
Acetic Acid is added at 50 ˚C by inject and
Run time 20 min.
Sample check
Fixing agent is added at 40 ˚C by linear dosing during 10
min.
Drain
Run time 20 min
Sample check

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Table: Machine Setting for aqua color dyeing
Parameter Setting
Pump Speed (Load) 70%
Pump Speed (Next all) 80%
Winch Speed (Load) 100m/min
Winch Speed (Next all) 220m/min
Nozzle Speed (For all) 50%
Drain
Softener is added at 45 ˚C by inject
Run time 20 min.
Sample check (ok)
Unload

Scouring & Bleaching Curve
Color Dosing Curve
PCLF A/AM
SIFA EMG
110o
C
3o
C/ min, Rinse/Cooling-10 min
70o
C
Rinse Time Drain
Scouring& Bleaching
PH
Check (11.5)
40-50 minH2O2 add
55o
C X5ʹ
A. Acid
55o
C X45ʹ
80o
C
Acid & Enzyme Wash
PH
=4.5 GSA EMG A/AM
Auxiliaries Dosing
Run Time
NaOH add at 70o
C
50˚C
Temperature(˚C)
5-10 min 7 min
40o
C
90o
C
10
min
PC
40o
C
Rinse
&Drain
2˚C/min
Sample Check
Enzyme
Hot
40o
C
Rinse
&Drain
60˚C x 10 min
Leveling
Time (min)
Salt Addition
60o
C
Temperature(˚C)
80o
C
10 min 20 min
80o
C 80o
C 80o
C
60o
C 60o
C
40o
C
Run time Color Dosing at pH 6.5 Run time Alkali Dosing Run time
Rinse & Drain (4-5 times)
30 min 20 min
35 min 30-40 min
15 min
Bath Drop
If shade is not ok
then take decision
for toping or strip-
ing
Time (min)

Washing Curve
Rinse & DrainSoaping
80˚C
40˚C
Rinse &
Drain
80˚C
A/Acid Rinse
& Drain
Fixing
Dosing
15-20 min
(Depend
on Shade)
Hot wash
Run Time Rinse
& Drain
Softening
Unloading
40˚C
20 min
10 min
20 min
20 min
Temperature(˚C)
Time (min)

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Program – 2 (for Chocolate Color Dyeing)
Drain
Temperature is raised at 50 ˚C and wetting agent, anti-
creasing agent, stabilizer, sequestering agent are added by
inject dosing.
NaOH & Soda ash is added by linear dosing
Per-Oxide is added by inject dosing
Temperature is raised at 110 ˚C and Run time 40 – 50 min.
Cooling at 90 ˚C
Sample Check [if ok then go for next step and if not ok then
Drain

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Page85
Per-Oxide Clearer is added by inject
Temperature is raised at 90 ˚ C and Run time 10 min.
Drain
Run time 10 min
Drain

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Page86
Bath Drop for toping (if sample is not ok)
Run time 10 min.
color]. After that if shade is not ok (light) then take decision
for toping.
Run time 20 min.
Run time 20 min.
Unload

Dyeing&Finishing
Page87
Run time 20 min.
Run time 20 min.
Run time 10 min.
color]
Fill water according to liquor ratio & Loading
Shade Check (if ok then go for next steps)
Temperature is raised at 80 ˚C & Soaping agent RDC is add-
ed by inject & Run time 20-30 min. for lightening the shade.
[Run time depends on how much lightening is required.]
Rinse wash (2-3 times) & Drain

Dyeing&Finishing
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Drain
Hot wash at 80 ˚C – 90 ˚C [If shade is darker then soaping
agent may use to make the shade slight lighter]
Drain
Run time 20 min.
Sample check
min.
Drain
Run time 20 min
Sample check

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Table: Machine Setting for chocolate color dyeing
Parameter Setting
Drain
Run time 20 min.
Sample check (ok)
Unload

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Program – 3 (for Black Color Dyeing)
Drain
Temperature is raised at 50 ˚C and soaping agent (OSP) is
added by inject dosing.
Temperature is raised at 80 ˚C and Run time 20 min
Drain
Run time 10 min
Drain

Dyeing&Finishing
Page93
Run time 10 min.
Run time 20 min.
Run time 10 min.
color]
Run time 10 min.

Dyeing&Finishing
Page94
Drain
Hot wash at 80 ˚C with soaping agent OSP
& Run time 15-20 min. [Depend on shade]
Drain
Run time 20 min.
Sample check
min.
Drain
Run time 20 min
Sample check

Dyeing&Finishing
Page95
Table: Machine Setting for black color dyeing
Parameter Setting
Drain
Run time 20 min.
Sample check (ok)
Unload

Scouring & Bleaching Curve
Dye Dosing Curve:
GSA A/AM EMG
Leveling
55o
C X60ʹ 55o
C X10ʹ
80o
C Rinse Time Drain
Scouring& Bleaching
20 min
A. Acid
80o
C
Acid & Enzyme
Wash
PH
=4.5
Auxiliaries
Dosing
Run50˚C
Temperature(˚C)
10 min
2˚C/min
Sample Check
Enzyme
Hot
Rinse
&Drain
5-10
OSP
Time (min)
If shade is not ok
then take decision
for toping or strip-
ing
Salt Addition
50o
C
Temperature(˚C)
50o
C
10 min 20 min
50o
C 50o
C 50o
C 50o
C
60o
C
40o
C
Run time Color Dosing at pH 6.5 Run time Alkali Dosing Run time Rinse & Drain (4-5 times)
30 min 20 min 35 min 10 min
15 min
Bath Drop
55o
C 30-40 min
Color Fixation
Time (min)

Washing Curve:
Rinse & DrainSoaping
80˚C
40˚C
Rinse &
Drain
80˚C
A/Acid Rinse
& Drain
Fixing
Dosing
15-20 min
(Depend
on Shade)
Hot wash
Run Time Rinse
& Drain
Softening
Unloading
40˚C
20 min
10 min
20 min
20 min
Temperature(˚C)
Time (min)

Dyeing&Finishing
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Shade Card:
Order wise shade achieved in different stage of processing are shown below in shade card-
Figure: Shade card for aqua color
Shade Card (Aqua Color)
Buyer: Dunnes Order No.: Color: Aqua1978 AT
Grey Sample Bath Drop Sample
Stenter Sample Compacting Sample

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Page99
Figure: Shade card for chocolate color
Shade Card (Chocolate Color)
Buyer: Dunnes Order No.: Color: Chocolate2006 AT
Not Available
Grey Sample Bath Drop 1 Sample
Light Sample Before Toping Bath Drop 2 (Toping) Sample

Dyeing&Finishing
Page100
Figure: Shade card for Blck color
Shade Card (Black Color)
Buyer: Wool Worth Order No.: Color: Black1980 AT
Grey Sample Bath Drop Sample

Dyeing&Finishing
Page101
Rope Opening & Slitting:
All fabrics of all orders were processed with Rope Opening & Slitting Machine under same
machine setting. Machine settings are given below:
Table: Machine setting for rope opening, slitting & Dewatering Machine
Parameter Setting
J Box Padder Pressure 2 bar
Machine Speed 48
Fabric Tension Speed 0
Padder pressure 3
Extraction 70%

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Page102
Stenter Processing:
During stenter finishing, fabrics of different orders were treated under different condition to
go to the target. According to different orders the changes and machine settings during sten-
tering are given below-
Table: Effect of stentering & stenter setting
Buyer / Order No. Parameter Machine Setting
Dunnes
1978 AT
Dia. (after): 77″
GSM (after): 167-168
Temp. : 160 ˚C
Speed : 19 m/s
Width Setting : 203 cm
Upper Feed : 71%
Lower Feed : 17%
Pinning (R/L) : (18/18)%
Blower (R/L) : (80/85)%
Exhaust (1/2) : (70/70)%
Padding Chem: Softener
Dunnes
2006 AT
Dia. (after): 80″
GSM (after): 160
Temp. : 160 ˚C
Speed : 20 m/s
Upper Feed : 61%
Lower Feed : 21%
Pinning (R/L) : (14/14)%
Blower (R/L) : (80/85)%
Exhaust (1/2) : (70/70)%
Wool Worth
1980 AT
Dia. (after): 66-66.5″
GSM (after): 180-185
Temp. : 195 ˚C
Speed : 21 m/s
Upper Feed : 35%
Lower Feed : 23%
Pinning (R/L) : (20/20)%
Blower (R/L) : (80/80)%
Exhaust (1/2) : (70/70)%

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Page103
Compactor Processing:
During compactor finishing, fabrics of different orders were treated under different condition
to go to the target. According to different orders the changes and machine settings during
compacting are given below-
Table Error! No text of specified style in document.-1: Effect of compacting & compactor setting
Buyer &
Order No.
Parameter Machine Setting
Dunnes
1978 AT
Dia (Before) : 77″
Dia (After) : 74″
GSM (Before) : 167-168
GSM (After) : 183-185
Shrinkage(Length/Width) :(-6.3/-2)%
Twisting : 1%
Compaction : 18%
Fabric Speed :10 m/min
Felt Tension : 0.8 kg
Taker-in Tension : 0.8 kg
Steam : 10 (Full)
Dunnes
2006 AT
Dia (After) : 76″
GSM (Before) : 160
GSM (After) : 173
Shrinkage(Length/Width) :(-5.5/-2)%
Twisting : 1.2%
Compaction : 16%
Fabric Speed :10 m/min
Steam : 10 (Full)
Wool Worth
1980 AT
Dia (After) : 64″
GSM (Before) : 180-185
GSM (After) : 192-193
Shrinkage(Length/Width) :(-2.4/-2.9)%
Twisting : 0.8%
Compaction : 10%
Fabric Speed :17.8 m/min
Steam : 10 (Full)

Dyeing&Finishing
Page104
Quality Assurance:
After the operation of open compactor, the fabric is send to Quality Assurance department for
fabric inspection (4 point system) and physical testing lab for Justification of its quality
whether it meets the requirements given by the buyers.
Order wise average inspection report and physical test result are given below-
Finish Fabric Inspection:
Table: Finish fabric inspection report (Contains average inspection data)
Finish Fabric Inspection Report
Quality Assurance Department
Buyer &
Order
Yarn Fabric
Type
Finish
Dia.
M/C Qty
(Yds)
Size of Fault (F) Total
Penalty
Point
Pt/100
sq yds
&
Grade
F ≤ 3″ 3″< F ≤ 6″ 6″<F≤ 9″ F > 9″
& Hole
Dunnes
1978 AT
34/1
20D
S/J,
Elas-
tane
74″ 30″×28 G 64 Fl5, C3,
LO2, S4,
OM3
0 0 0 17 (10)
A
Dunnes
2006 AT
34/1
20D
S/J,
Elas-
tane
75″ 30″×28 G 62 Fl1, C2,
S3, OM2
SET1 0 H1 11 (06)
A
Wool
Worth
1980 AT
30/1
20D
S/J,
Elas-
tane
62″ 30″×28 G 64 Fl3,
LO1, S4,
OM3
0 0 H1 12 (08)
A
Penalty Points Legends:
H = Hole
Fl = Fly
C = Contamination
S = Slub
St = Stripe
LO = Lycra Out
OM = Oil Mark
VM = Vertical Mark
K = Knot
NB = Needle Breakage
LM = Loop Miss
SET = Setup
Four Points System: Acceptance Calculation:
Penalty Point/100 sq. yards
TP 36 100
L W
=
x x
x
Here,
TP = Total Penalty Points
L = Total Length
W = Width of the Fabric
Classification,
≤ 40 points = A
41-60 points = B
61-80 points = C
80 Above = Reject
Size of Defect Penalty Point
F ≤ 3″ 1
3″ < F ≤ 6″ 2
6″< F ≤ 9″ 3
F > 9″ 4
Any Hole 4
Assign 4 point to each consecutive
linear yard in which a continuous
running defect exceeds 9 inches.

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