Industrial trainning Keya knitting composite

1|Pa g e P R IM E A S IA U N IV E R S IT Y
PRIMEASIA UNIVERSITY
Department of Textile Engineering
INTERNSHIP REPORT
(Industrial Attachment at The Delta Composite Knitting Industries Ltd.)
Course No: TXE-426 & TXE-428
Course Title: Industrial Training & Practice (I & II)
Supervised By
Dr. M. A. Sayeed
Associate Professor & Head of Garments Section
Department of Textile engineering
Primeasia University
Prepared By
Supriyo Chakrabarty
ID: 151020041
8th
January, 2019

Letter of Transmittal
Date: 08.01.2019
Dr. M. A. Sayeed
Subject: Submission of Internship Report.
Dear Sir,
With great pleasure, here I submit my internship report entitled Industrial Training at The
Delta Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd. that you have approved & assigned as a compulsory
requirement of TXE- 426 & 428 course. I have tried my level best to bring out the original
scenario of Delta Knitting Composite with full of effectiveness & efficiency.
I have really learned a lot and have gained valuable experience and knowledge while collecting
information for the report. It was certainly a great opportunity for me to work on this real life
project to actualize my theoretical knowledge of this course in the practical arena and some
more which is out of this course.
I hope that this project paper has been to your expectation, if you come across any question or
quarries regarding these cases, it will be my pleasure to clarify your questions.
Sincerely yours
……………………………….
Supriyo Chakrabarty
ID: 151020041

Approval Certificate
This is to certify Supriyo Chakrabarty, ID: 151020041 has prepared this internship report
entitled Industrial Training at The Delta Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd. under my supervision
& guidance. I do here by approve the style & content of this internship report. This is for
the partial fulfillment of four year graduation degree of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering major
in Apparel Manufacturing Technology of Primeasia University.
I wish him every success in life.
……………………………….....
Dr. M. A. Sayeed
Department of Textile engineering

CONTENTS
TOPIC PAGE
Acknowledge 8
Executive Summary 9
CHAPTER ONE 10-19
FACTORY
OVERVIEW
1.1 Introduction
1.2 Business Strategy of The Delta Group
1.4 Customer Profile
1.5 Work Place Environment
1.6 Day Care Center
1.7 Workers Welfare
1.8 Code of Conduct
1.9 Right Time Delivery
1.10 Group Concern
1.11 Different Department
1.12 Key Concern
1.13 Bank Sponsor
1.14 Certification Achievement
1.15 Factory & Head Office address
CHAPTER TWO 20-35
KNITTING
2.1 Knitting Section Organogram
2.2 Production Flowchart of Knitting Section
2.3 Knitting m/c specification of DCKIL
2.4 Types of yarn uses in DCKIL
2.5 Types of knitted fabric Produced by Circular knitting m/c
2.6 Types of parts produces by flat knitting m/c
2.7 Method of increasing production
2.8 Knitting faults in fabrics
2.9 Types of circular knitting m/c for different technique
2.10 Machine parameter

CONTENTS
TOPIC PAGE
CHAPTER THREE 36-38
BATCHING
3.1 Batching
3.2 Batch process flow chart
3.3 Types of batch
3.4 Purpose of batch section
3.5 Criteria of proper batching
CHAPTER FOUR 39-55
DYEING
4.1 Dyeing section organogram
4.2 Process flow chart of knit fabric dyeing
4.3 Machine in dyeing section of DCKIL
4.4 Idea about Pantone Book
4.5 Chemical & auxiliaries used in knit dyeing industries
4.6 Profit or loss calculation of knit dyeing project
4.7 Dyeing faults & remedies
4.8 Process flowchart for 100% cotton knit fabric
CHAPTER FIVE 56-64
DYEING
FINISHING
5.1 Textile finishing
5.2 Textile finishing m/c in DCKIL
5.3 Stenter machine
5.4 Compacting machine
5.5 Slitting machine
5.6 Dewatering machine
5.7 Different finished fabric faults
CHAPTER SIX 65-69
WASHING
6.1 Garments washing
6.2 Types of garments wash
6.3 Acid wash process sequence
6.4 process sequence of bleach wash
6.5 Flow chart of Enzyme washing process
CHAPTER SEVEN 70-74
EFFUENT
TREANTMENT
PLAN
7.1 ETP
7.2 Water consumption in Textile Processing
7.3 Necessity of ETP
7.4 Operation flowchart of ETP
7.5 Basic chemical used in ETP
7.6 Product quality check

CONTENTS
TOPIC PAGE
CHAPTER EIGHT 75-96
PRODUCTION
8.1 Sample Section
8.1.1 Various kind of sample in DCKIL
8.1.2 Flowchart of sampling in DCKIL
8.2 Cutting Section
8.2.1 Process sequence of cutting section
8.2.2 Different types of fabric cutting machine
8.3 sewing Section
8.3.1 Sewing section organogram
8.3.2 Working procedure of sewing department
8.3.3 Sewing m/c in DCKIL
8.3.4 Sewing layout of Tang Top
8.3.5 Common sewing problem with causes & remedies
8.3.6 sewing section Inspection
8.4 Garments Finishing section
8.4.1 Pressing or ironing
8.4.2 Quality check
8.4.3 Price tag & accessories
8.4.4 Folding
8.4.5 Packing
8.4.6 Assortment
8.4.7 Cartooning
CHAPTER NINE 97-100
IE &
PRODUCTION
PLANNING
9.1 IE & Production Planning
9.2 Capacity study
9.3 Method study
9.4 Method study
9.5 Time study
9.6 Motion study
9.7 Tools & technique of IE used in apparel industry

CONTENTS
TOPIC PAGE
CAHPTER TEN 101-116
MERCHANDISING 10.1 Merchandising
10.2 Merchandiser
10.3 Types of merchandising
10.4 Merchandiser key responsibilities
10.5 Business development procedure
10.6 Sending quality sample to new buyer
10.7 Approved procedure of sales sample
10.8 Cost sheet & consumption sheet preparation
10.9 Negotiation process & ending of negotiation
10.10 Price negotiation process with different suppliers
10.11 Finishing product booking
10.12 Master L?C checking procedure
10.13 Buyer approval procedure of fabric color & accessories
10.14 Merchandiser activity on product development
10.15 Sets of garments sample approval
10.16 Merchandiser activity on production
10.17 Merchandiser activity on quality control
10.18 Goods delivery to buyer destination
CHAPTER ELEVEN 117-119
CONCLUSION 11.1 Conclusion
11.2 Reference

Acknowledgment
At First, I would like to thank almighty Allah for giving me the opportunity to complete my
internship. I also want to thank all the people, who have given their support and assistance and
extremely grateful to all of them for the completion of the report successfully. First of all I would
like to take the opportunity to thank Mohammad Billal Hossain, Assistant Professor, Primeasia
University, who is my internship supervisor, for providing me guidelines, help in assisting my
report. He was constantly supporting me with his inspiring personality. I will be always thankful
for his extraordinary reinforcement. I would like to take the opportunity to thank Md. Omar
Faruke Siddique, Executive Director, The Delta Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd. for being my on-
site supervisor & providing me time to time information, suggestion as well as procedures
to work with my topic. would also like to express my foremost gratitude to other officials of The
Delta Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd. who helped me and gave me their valuable time, providing
me with the most relevant information on the basis of which I have prepared this report. I am
thankful to all of them for helping and guiding me and for being nice and kind to me. And finally
I would like to thank The Delta Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd. for providing me with the
opportunity to do my internship in the reputed organization.

Executive Summary
THE DELTA is one of the largest groups in Bangladesh and one of the highest GDP contributor.
Here, this is a great chance for me to do my internship in one of its concern organization The
Delta Composite Knitting Ind. This is a large factory with all the facilities to composite industry.
Here the production process runs from making yarn to fabric and from fabric to finished
garment. In this age, Bangladesh is flourished with RMG sector where this division has its
immense contribution.
As a large textile industry THE DELTA GROUP has large numbers of employees but the
productivity is getting slow day by day. So, it is a matter of concern that why this huge industry
is doing stagnant profit. In the whole procedure of exporting garments to the retailer of abroad
and to communicate with them, merchandisers have a great influence and responsibilities.
When, the order is taken from buyer the duty comes to the floor of all department and before
going production they do almost everything to make the business smooth. So, the work starts
with the order taking and making business relationship. Then sample making, planning, booking
of every single material for samples and getting approval are all the key responsibilities. In case
of production, sample goes in bulk so, the responsibilities become huge and it comes to the
relation with operation also.
I was selected for the buyer NEWFRONTIER and this team is really supporting from any side I
wanted their help. Newfrontier is full with new styles and different designs which push
merchandisers to face huge stress and deal with lots of challenges. Here, these all procedures
are tried to be written as the team tried their best to help in preparing this report.

10|Pag e P R IM E A S IA U N IV E R S IT Y
CHAPTER 1: FACTORY OVERVIEW

1.1 Introduction
Textile and RMG (Ready Made Garments) are leading export-led industries in Bangladesh, in
respect of foreign currency earning and employment. Recently, in the past-MFA era, the
composite knitting industries are playing the crucial roles in country's RMG sector.Among
Them, The Delta Composite Knitting Industries Ltd. has occupied a pivotal Place. It has
been possible because of its multi-dimensional and epoch-making activities since its inception
in 19888.
The Delta is a composite unit, having knitting, dyeing, finishing and sewing units under a
single roof. Beside they have their own printing, embroidery and washing units on the same
premises. All these unit work as an integrated whole to meet the buyer's stipulated time and
need based demands.
DCKIL- The factory is located at Kashimpur, Gazipur - 55 minutes drive from the Hazrat
Shahjalal International Airport, Dhaka. The total factory space is 2,56,332sqft, including two
6-storied, one 5-storied and one 3-storied building. The factory area is highly protected with
boundary walls and private security guards. A camp of Bangladesh govt's ansar force in also
established within the premises to confirm cent percent security.
Next to its security measures, the factory is well equipped and furnished with enough fire-
fighting equipment, fire alarms systems and trained personnel for the facilitating emergency
evacuation. All of which contribute to minimizing the fire-risks. The factory environment, with
excellent lighting and ventilation, is one of the very best of its kind in Bangladesh.
The Delta Believes that the accumulation of individual efficiencies is the assets of the whole
company. Accordingly, we try to reciprocate to the individual well being of all our 4,500
employees. So the factory provides pure drinking water facilities, worker's launch-room, first-
aid units with full-time physicians and sufficient number of toilets.
Moreover, There are daycare center for the female worker's children. Every worker is also
provided with health insurance by the company. This ensure their on-the-job accident
recommendation and enrich the foundation of their future.
All of these measure are taken not only to bolster its public image and harp on social
responsibility but to fulfill the Delta's overall commitment to the workers and reflect true
aptitude to comply the recent philosophy of CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility). The
employees here always feel that they really are an integral pat of the company and genuine
partners in its ongoing success story.
Then comes Delta's state-of-the-art range of machinery from the world famous
manufacturers of the US, UK, Germany, Japan, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and so on.
All these sophisticated equipment contributes to meet the company's production lead-time.
Thisis 60 days. Mainly we export T-shirt and different types of men's, women's and kid's knit
apparels made from various kinds of knit fabrics.

Year of Establishments : January 1998
Covered Area of Factory Premises : 2,56,332 sft
Total Work Force : 5,000 persons
Paid up Capital : 10 million Taka
Average Annual Turn Over : 36 million $us
Vision of The Delta Group:
Quality is always the combination of the highest intent, sincerest effort with an accurate
execution.
Mission of The Delta Group:
To reach the zenith or be the market leader in providing knit garments to valued customers
around the globe.
Business motto of The Delta Group:
Source Quality, Makes Quality and Deliver Quality. Nothing Delights more than the customers
satisfaction.

1.3 Internship Foreign & Domestic:
With its vertical set-up and sophisticated world class machinery, The Delta Composite Conducts
diverse internship training program round the year specifically for textile engineers, graduate &
post graduates students both foreign and domestic level.
1.4 Customer Profile
Textile and RMG (Ready Made Garments) are leading export-led industries in Bangladesh, in
respect of foreign currency earning and employment. Recently, in the past-MFA era, the
composite knitting industries are playing the crucial roles in country's RMG sector.Among Them,
The Delta Composite Knitting Industries Ltd. has occupied a pivotal Place. It has been possible
because of its multi-dimensional and epoch-making activities since its inception in 1998.
The Delta is a composite unit, having knitting, dyeing, finishing and sewing units under a single
roof. Beside we have our own printing, embroidery and washing units on the same premises. All
these unit work as an integrated whole to meet the buyer's stipulated time and need based
demands.

USA Gymboree, Xanaka, Viva Cotton, Sams Club, Kids H/Q
GERMANY C&A, Tom Tailor
SPAIN Zara
UK Matalan
ITALY Terranova
FRANCE Pimkie, Monoprix, Carrefour Kiabi, Spring Field
TURKEY Tema
CANADA Wal-Mart
SWEEDEN New Wave Group
1.5 Work Place Environment
Always care for the suitable working environment for the employees. We believe by reasons that
without a congenial working environment none is able to derive get job satisfaction.
Keeping this in view, we provide excellent working environment to the employees backed by
adequate lighting, ventilation, overhead mirror, reflectors for lamps, forced duct ventilation etc.
Clearly demarcated emergency routes & exit, smoke detectors & fire alarms etc. have been set
appropriately to secure the safety of the workers. Besides instructions and warning signs have
been installed in a distinct places inside the factory premises written in bangle for easy
understanding of the workers as per ISO requirements.
Moreover usage of metal gloves, gum boots, gaggles, metal gloves for cutter man, gas mask for
workers making chemical handling eye guard needle guard &pully cover etc. have been made
compulsory to secure the safety of the workers.
More excitingly managerial staff and workers both work together joyfully to promote ties based
on bondage which helps to make sound working environment. We designed annual training
calendar in each year for workers to sharpen the safety awareness and also to enhance
professional skill.

1.6 Day Care Center
Day Care Center of ours provides adequate service like supplying food, milk etc to the children
of the working mothers. it functions from 9.00AM to 6.00PM. The center is Spacious, highly
hygienic with attached toilets. it has toys, cradles and dolls etc. for the amusement of the
children. Full time female care taker under the supervision of nurse assumes responsibilities to
secure the safety of the children of the working mother.
1.7 Workers Welfare
More concerned about the welfare of our workers. The first priority to them is the best health
care facilities. The medical center we have is properly equipped with a Medical team comprising
full-timed MBBS doctors and two nurses. The Team assumes responsibilities round the clock on
rotation basis to provide free consultation service & medication to workers.
1.8 Code of Conduct
Compliance is a process but not an event. we believe it. it is too important for all of us to strictly
go by the local laws & regulations including the morns of ILO convention. we provide training to
the workers to get them well conversant about the general etiquette and code of conduct to
change manners necessary to ensure congenial work environment in the premises.
1.9 Right Time Delivery
Next to quality, what we prioritize is the delivery of product in right time. to keep things on
track, we make all out efforts to give a perfect finish to the orders within the lead time adhering
the codes of critical path method. toTo well plan the future, we devote best efforts to prioritize
the time frame. Upon the receipt of orders, the first thing we do is to get call Accessories
necessary
for products fully in housed. Based on the critical path method we move forward to make
production on phase wise basis to make sure we are able to make shipment within the lead
time.
1.10 Group Concern
DCKIL the factory is located at kashimpur, Gazipur - 55 minutes drive from the Hajrat Shahjalal
International Airport, Dhaka. The total factory space is 2,56,332 sqft, including two 6-storied,
one 5-storied and one 3-storied builiding.The factory arena is highly protected with boundry
walls and private security guards. A camp of Bangladesh govt's ansar force in also established
within the premises to confirm cent per cent security.

The Delta Spinning Mills Ltd.
The Delta Spinning is an another backward linkage unit of the Group that stands in the
excellent location at Zarun (South) Kashimpur, Gazipur encompassing green surroundings
having 42000 Spindles comprising an area measuring 316,800sft with the floor area of
1,66,300sft run by 1000 employees with the average annual turn over of US$ 25 million. It
manufactures card & combed yearn of different counts at a daily production capacity of 35 Tons.
It meets 60% & 40% demands of the Delta Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd and other local users
respectively.
The Delta Accessories Ltd.
The Delta Accessories Ltd Stands in height covering the total area measuring
110,000sft producing world class garments accessories equipped with branded imported
machinery from the reputed manufacturers of the world. It annual turnover is US$ 12 million at
75% capacity utilization run by 400 employees. It was commissioned in 2005. Below is the list of
machinery focusing the model, quantity and plant capacity including the country of origin.
The Delta Engineer's Ltd
The Delta Group, a galaxy of the large
scaled backward linkage units totaling eight in
number gets located at the central point of
Gazipur, one of the biggest Industrial belts of
the country with an easy access by road. It is
just forty minutes drive from capital city of
Dhaka.
Safa High-Tech Packaging Ltd.
Gazipur, one of the biggest Industrial belts of
Dhaka.
Lily Cosmetics Ltd.
Lily Cosmetics Ltd. is one of the sister-
concerns of The Delta Group that stands in the
sane premises covering the floor space
measuring 2260sft. It was established in 2001
with high branded machineries imported from
world's reputed manufactures.
The Delta Carton Ind Ltd.
Gaziput, one of the biggest Industrial belts of
Dhaka.

Listed Companies
The Delta Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd.
The Delta Spinning Mills Ltd.
The Delta Accessories Ltd.
The Delta Apparels Ltd.
The Delta Blended Yarn Mills Ltd.
The Delta Yarn Dyeing Ind. Ltd.
The Delta Engineer's Ltd
The Delta Carton Industries Ltd.
Safa High-Tech Packaging Ltd.
Lily Cosmetics Ltd.
1.11 Different Department
 Merchandising &Marketing
 Design & Development
 Knitting Section
o Knitting
o Grey Inspection
o Store
 Dyeing Section
o Grey Inspection
o Batching Section
o Dye House
 Dyeing Finishing Section
 Lab & Quality assurance
 Garments Section
o Product development
o Sample section
o Cutting & spreading Section
o Sewing section
o Finishing Section
 Utility Section
o Compressor
o Boiler
o Generator
 Maintenance Section
o Electrical
o Mechanical

 Supporting Department
o Admin, HR & Compliance
o Purchase & Commercial
o Store & Inventory
o Account & Inventor
1.12 Key Concern
Engr. A K M FaruqueAhamed
Chairman
The Delta Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd.
Md. Ibrahim Khalil
Director (Operations)
Mobile: +8801713365972
e-mail: ibrahim@deltagroupbd.com
Md. Omar Faruke Siddique
Executive Director
Mobile:+8801713365942
e-mail: omar@deltagroupbd.com
Mohd. JoynalAbedin
General Manager (Marketing & Merchandising)
Mobile:+8801713365944, +8801711930554
e-mail: abedin@deltagroupbd.com

1.13 Bank Sponsor
Islami Bank Bangladesh Ltd Janata Bank Ltd.
Islami Bank Bangladesh Ltd. Janata Bank Ltd.
Local Office
1, Dilkusha C/A, Dhaka-1000
Tel: +880-2-9556242
Fax: +880-2-9563639, Swift: JANBBDDHAJBD
WEB: www.janatabankbd.com
Mouchak Branch, Hosaf Tower
Malibagh, Dhaka -1217
Tel: +880-2-9355625,936184, 9345946
Fax: +880-2-9355625, Swift: IBBLBDDHA145
E-mail: mouchak@islamibankbd.com
1.14 Certification Achievement
1.15 Factory & Head Office address
Factory Location:
Zarun (South), Kashimpur, Gazipur Bangladesh
Phone: +880-2-92976652-5, 9289181-3
Fax: +880-2-92997746
web: http://www.deltagroupbd.com
Head Office Location:
Plot # 389, Lane # 6, DOHS Baridhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh
Phone : +880288136367, 8824092
Fax : +880-2-8813635
Email: dckill@deltagroupbd.com

CHAPTER 2: KNITTING SECTION

2.1 Knitting Section Organogram:
Organogram means a drawing or plan that gives the names and job titles of all the staff in an
organization or department, showing how three are connected to each other. Knitting section of
a Garments Industry has an organogram.
Knitting General Manager
↓
Knitting Assistance Manager
↓
Knitting Master
↓
Production Master
↓
Production Officer
↓
Knitting Incharge
↓
Knitting Supervisor
↓
Knitting Technician
↓
Knitting Operator
↓
Knitting Helper
↓
Knitting Cleaner
2.2 Production Flowchart of Knitting Section
Knitting is one kind of fabric manufacturing process. This type of fabric is produced by forming
loop. The Knitting Manager is responsible for production of knitting section. In this article I will
give a production flowchart of knitting department in fabric manufacturing industry. It starts
from collecting order from buyer and will end by delivering the product in dyeing unit.
Executive director takes order from Buyer
↓
Merchandiser estimates total amount of yarn of production
↓
Knitting manager gets production order sheet
↓
Senior Production Officer ordered by K.M. and orders Production officer and Technical in-charge.
↓

Production officer fixes up stitch length and GSM with mechanical fitter.
↓
Definite operator operates machine in his full conscious and Attention.
↓
Mechanical fitter fixes machine if there is any m/c fault.
↓
Supervisors keep daily production report and assure m/c is OK.
↓
Fabric roll is checked by a troop of inspectors in inspection unit and weighted.
↓
Final product to the required amount is delivered to dyeing unit.
2.3 Knitting m/c specification of DCKIL
Total Floor Area : 23940 sft
Production Capacity per Day : 24.5 Tons
Name of the Machine Dia GG Unit Brand Origin
Single Jersey / Pique 17" 24 01 Set Mayer &Cie Germany
Single Jersey / Pique 20" 24 01 Set Mayer &Cie Germany
Single Jersey / Pique 22" 24
02
Sets Mayer &Cie Germany
Single Jersey / Pique 24" 24
02
Single Jersey (Lycra 30" 24 01 Set Mayer &Cie Germany

Name of the Machine Dia
Attachment)
Rib(Lycra Attachment) 30" 24/28
02
Rib(Lycra Attachment) 34" 16/18
02
Inter Lock 30" 22/24
02
Inter Lock 30" 22/24
02
Rib/Inter Lock(Lycra
Attachment)
34" 18/22
01
Sets
Mayer &Cie Germany
Attachment)
36" 18/22
05
Sets
Mayer &Cie Germany
Attachment)
38" 18/22
03
Sets
Mayer &Cie Germany
Single Jersey / Pique 16" 24/28 01 Set Camber UK
Single Jersey / Pique 18" 24/28 02 Sets Camber UK
Single Jersey / Pique 19" 24/28 02 Sets Camber UK
Single Jersey / Pique 20" 24 06 Set Camber UK
GG Unint Brand Origin

Single Jersey / Pique 21" 24 10 Sets Camber UK
Single Jersey / Pique 23" 24 05 Sets Camber UK
Single Jersey / Pique 25" 24 01 Set Camber UK
Name of the Machine Dia GG Unint Brand Origin
Fleece 30" 14 03 Sets Camber UK
Klat Knit Collar & 100cm 14 10 Sets Camber Japan
Cuff Machine
Fabrics - 01 Sets Calator
Inspection Machine 07 Set Korea
Rib/Interloc 34" 18/22 01 Sets Pailung Taiwan
Rib/Interloc 40" 18/22 02 Set Pailung Taiwan
Rib/Interloc 42" 18/22 02 Set Pailung Taiwan
Single Jersey 34" 24/28 03 Set Pailung Taiwan
Single Jersey 36" 24/28 03 Set Pailung Taiwan
2.4 Types of yarn uses in DCKIL
1. Cotton
2. Polyester
3. Viscose
4. Polyester/cotton

5. Polyester/viscose
6. Slub yarn

7. CVC
8. Lycra
9. Cotton/viscose etc
2.5 Types of knitted fabric Produced by Circular knitting m/c
1. S/l jersey
2. Rib
3. Interlock
4. Fleece
5. Terry
6. S/l Lacoste
7. Double pique
8. Diagonal pique
9. Special pique
10. Single jersey stripe
2.6 Types of parts produced by flat knitting m/c
1. Collar
2. Cuff
3. Bottom Portion
2.7 Method of increasing production
 By increasing m/c speed: Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and
ultimately production will be increased. But it has to make sure that excess tension is
not imposed on yarn because of this high speed.
 By increasing the number of feeder: If the number of feeder is increased in the
circumference of cylinder, then the number of courses will be increased in one
revolution at a time.
 By using machine of higher gauge: The more the machine gauge, the more the
production is. So by using machine of higher gauge production can be increased.
 By imposing automation in the m/c: a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient
driving system. b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation. c) Photo
electric fabric fault detector.
 By imposing other developments: a) Using creel-feeding system. b) Applying yarn
supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn damage. c) Using
yarn feed control device.

2.8 Knitting faults in fabric
1. Hole Mark
Causes:
❶Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
❷ During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
❸ If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
❹Badly knot or splicing.
❺Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
❶ Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
❷Use proper count of yarn.
❸Correctly set of yarn feeder.
❹Knot should be given properly.
2. Needle Mark
Causes:
❶ When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
❷ If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
❶Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
❷Bent needle should be changed

3. Star mark
Causes:
❶Yarn tension variation during production.
❷Buckling of the needle latch.
❸Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
❶Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
❷Use good conditioned needles.
4. Drop Stitches
Causes:
❶ Defective needle.
❷ If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle
hook.
❸Take-down mechanism too loose.
❹Insufficient yarn tension.
❺Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
❶Needle should be straight & well.
❷Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
❸Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
❹Yarn tension should be perfect.

5. Oil stain
Causes:
❶ When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.
Remedies:
❶Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
❷Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
6. Pin hole
Causes:
❶ Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
❶Change the needle
7. Fly dusts
Causes:
❶ In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to
low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface
tightly during knit fabric production.

Remedies:
❶ Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
❷By cleaning the floor continuously.
❸ By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
❹Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
8. Yarn contamination
Causes:
❶ If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
❷If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies
❶By avoiding lot, count mixing.
❷Fault less spinning.
9. Patta
Causes:
❶Yarn count variation
❷Yarn tension variation
Remedies:
❶Proper yarn count & tension should be maintained.
Remarks:
❶ For dark color & plain single jersey patta very sensitive. But in case of derivatives of
single jersey, rib &interlock light patta considerable.
10. Lycra out & tension variation of Lycra

Causes:
❶Breakage of Lycra yarn & uneven tension ofLycra.
Remedies:
❶To maintain uniform tension.
11. Yarn Miss
Causes:
❶ Yarn breakage due to any reason and not pass through the yarn guide. It may be
occur for tension variation.
Remedies:
❶Yarn guide and tensioner must be used.
12. Lycra and cotton mixed
Causes:
❶Lycra yarn twisted with cotton yarn.
Remedies:
❶Correct the lycra path.
❷Clear the yarn guide.
2.9 Types of Circular Knitting Machine for Different Knitting
Techniques:
There are different types of circular knitting machines for different knitting techniques which are
pointed out in the below:
1. Open width knitting techniques machine.
2. Double jersey circular knitting machine.
3. Single jersey 4 track circular knitting machine.
4. Body size rib knitting machine.
5. Double jersey interlock knitting machine.
6. Double face terry circular knitting machine.
7. Computerized knitting machine with auto stripper.

8. Fleece machine interchangeable terry machine.
9. Circular knitting techniques machine.
10.Rib 4 track knitting techniques machine.
2.10 Machine Parameter
Machinegauge.
MachineDiameter.
V.D.QPulley
Needlegauge.

Machine Gauge
No. of needles per inch present in a needle bed of a knitting machine is called machine gauge
for that knitting machine. Selection of machine gauge depends upon the following: Yarn
count, Fibre type, Yarn twist, Yarn finished. General practices of machine gauge and yarn
count in different industries in Bangladesh are shown in Tables- 1, 2 & 3.
From this study of the data collected from the different factories we can see that the gauge
increases with the English count (Ne) of the yarn.
Typical Selection of M/C Gauge for Different Count Yarn:
Gauge
Count (Ne)
Low High Limit
32 32/1 46/1 60/1
28 30/1 46/1 60/1
24 20/1 46/1 50/1
22 20/1 40/1
20 20/1 40/1
18 20/1 40/1
16 10/1 24/1
Relation between machine gauge and yarn count (1X1 Rib & Interlock)
1X1 Rib Interlock
M/C
gauge
Count (Ne)
M/C
gauge
Count (Ne)
18 30 24 46
16 28 24 46
16 30 24 40
18 26 24 40
18 24 24 34
18 28 24 36
16 30 24 36
Machine Diameter
Machine diameter is mainly diameter of m/c cylinder. It is important for fabric width. Only
diameter does not determined the fabric width. It also needs machine gauge and wales space
which is depends upon yarn count and loop length.

M/C Finished dia. of fabric (inch)
M/C
Dia.
(inch)
M/C
Gauge
Count-
20/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
190-
200
Count
-24/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
175-
185
Count
-26/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
155-
165
Count
-40/1
Ne &
Fin
GSM-
110-
120
20 24 23.2 21.7 20.8 16.1
20 20 19.6 18.4 18 18
24 24 27.4 25.7 24.6 19.1
28 24 32.6 30.8 29.3 22.7
30 24 35 32.8 31.5 24.4
36 24 42 39.6 38 29.4
38 24 44.5 41.7 40 31
40 24 46.7 43.8 42 32.5
42 24 48.9 45.8 44 34.1
Change of fabric diameter with machine diameter with respect to GSM.
Needle Gauge
Thickness of needle express by the needle gauge. It is important for selection of machine gauge.
Needle gauge is differing for the different needle types and different Brand (see Fig. 9).
According to the result of study Machine gauge is 24 then Needle thickness is 0.52mm and
Machine gauge is 28 then Needle thickness is0.41mm

Relation of Machine gauge with yarn count
Gauge Count (Ne)
Low High Limit
32 32/1 46/1 60/1
28 30/1 46/1 60/1
24 20/1 46/1 50/1
22 20/1 40/1
20 20/1 40/1
18 20/1 40/1
16 10/1 24/1
V.D.Q pulley constant
There is a relation of V.D.Q number, stitch length and needle number. It is,
Constant, Kv=
This constant is dependent mainly on the M/C. Different machine type, brand; diameter can
vary the value of the constant. For a given machine the constant is same.
For Single jersey fabric the V.D.Q pulley constant is 41.20825 & for Rib fabric the V.D.Q
pulley constant is 68.76084.
With these values a better selection of VDQ number can be obtained for a particular stitch
length.

The value of Kv for different M/Cs
M/C Dia. X
Gauge
No.
of
Need
le
V.D.Q Stitch
Length
(mm)
Constant, Kv =
S/J 1 23*24 1728 125 2.90 40.0896
2 23*24 1728 110 2.60 40.8436
3 24*24 1800 118 2.75 41.9499
Rib 1 38*24 2136X2 151 2.55 72.1430
2 38*24 2136X2 100 1.70 72.624
3 34*24 1920X2 102 2.55 78.336

CHAPTER 3: BATCHING

3.1 Batching
Batching is the receiving section of grey fabric and sending section of grey fabric to the
dyeing section which will dye. Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be
dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order.
3.2 Batch Process Flow Chart:
Fabric Received & stored
↓
Fabric Divided according to Diameter after buyer’s recommendation
↓
Supervisor batches the fabric according to quantity by Calculation
↓
Inspection
↓
Send for Dyeing
3.3 Types of Batch:
1. Solid batch / non-assort batch: same diameter
2. Assort batch : various diameter
3.4 Aims / Purpose of Batch Section:
1. To receive the grey fabrics roll from knitting section or other source.
2. To turn out the tubular fabric to safe the face side of the fabric from any type of friction
during dyeing.
3. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria-

 Order sheet (Receive from buyer)
 Dyeing shade
 M/c available
 Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PC, CVC etc.)
 Emergency
4. To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
5. To keep records for every previous dyeing.
3.5 Criteria of Proper Batching:
1. To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c.
2. To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time.
3. To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
4. To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade.

CHAPTER 4: DYEING

4.1 Dyeing Section Organogram
In every organization there have a managerial system which control the whole process.
Organogram expresses this managerial system step by step. So we can explain, organogram
means a drawing or plan that gives the names and job titles of all the staff in an organization
or department, showing how they are connected to each other. It describes the hierarchy of
the organization from top to bottom. In this article I will give organogram of dyeing factory.
General Manager (GM)
↓
Deputy General Manager (DGM)
↓
Assistant General Manager (AGM)
↓
Manager
↓
Assistant Manager
↓
Senior Production Officer (SPO)
↓
Production Officer (PO)
↓
Assistant Production Officer (APO)
↓
Dyeing Master
↓
Shift In-Charge
↓
Floor In-Charge
↓
Supervisor
↓
Operator
↓
Helper
4.2 Process Flow Chartof Knit Fabric Dyeing
Knit dyeing is a technique of dyeing the knitted fabrics. The dyeing of knitted fabrics occurs in
the exhaust method or in batch-wise process. Knit dyeing process is near similar to yarn dyeing
process but there is some difference in quality measurement. Generally all types of single
jersey, double jersey and their derivatives are dyed by different way. Flowchart of knit fabric
dyeing describe shortly.

Grey fabric inspection
↓
Batching
↓
Fabric turning
↓
Loading to the m/c
↓
Pre-treatment (Scouring & Bleaching)
↓
Dyeing
↓
Dewatering
↓
Drying
↓
Compacting & Calendaring
↓
Final inspection & packing
4.3 Machine in Dyeing Section of DCKIL
Name of the Machine Capacity Unit Brand Origin
High Pressure & Temperature Winch 920 Kgs 01 Set Atyc Spain
High Pressure & Temperature Winch 720 Kgs 02 Sets Theis Spain

Name of the Machine Capacity Unit Brand Origin
High Pressure & Temperature
High Pressure & Temperature Winch
Winch 540 Kgs
Winch 360 Kgs
Winch 50 Kgs
30 Kgs 02
01 Set
01 Set
01 Set
Sets
Theis
Thies
Theis
Fong's
Germany
Germany
Germany
China
High Pressure & Temperature Winch 700 Kgs 01 Set Dilmenler Turey
High Pressure & Temperature Winch 150 Kgs 03 Sets Dilmenler Turey
High Pressure & Temperature Winch 350 Kgs 02 Sets Dilmenler Turkey
High Pressure & Temperature Winch 50 Kgs 02 Sets Dilmenler Turkey
Sample Dyeing Machine 15 Kgs 01 Set Classic Bangladesh
Sample Dyeing Machine 01 Kgs 01 Set Classic Bangladesh
Sample Dyeing Machine 25 Kgs 03 Sets China
4.4 Idea about Pantone Book
TCX & TPX both are color standard for pantone book color reference but those have the different purpose.
TPX - color swatch on paper.
TCX - color is done on cotton woven fabrics.

On the another meaning,
TCX-Textile cotton xtend.
TPX-Textile paper xtend
TCX color code is mainly followed for Reactive or Disperse dye color purpose but TPX color code is followed
for printing color standard.
Here’s a color code: 19-3921 TCX (The PANTONE textile numbering system)
where, 19= Lightness
39= Hue
21= Chroma
4.5 Chemical & auxiliaries used in knit dyeing industries
There are different types of chemical used in textile dyeing which are pointed in the below
according to their types:

1. Basic chemicals:
 Soda ash,
 Hydrochloric,
 Hydrogen peroxide,
 Sulphuric Acid,
 Acetic Acid,
 Formic acid,
 Caustic soda.
2. Washing agent or soaping agent:
 Serafast-CRD,
 Kappatex R98,
 Seraperse CSN,
 Crosden LPD,
 ResotexWOP,
 Diypol XLF (For polyester fabric),
 Jintex WRN.
3. Detergent and scouring agent:
 Jintex-GD,
 Felosan RGN,
 Jintex-GS.
4. Leveling agent:
 Levelex-P,
 Jinleveleve-RSPL,
 Serabid- MIP,
 Dyapol XLF,
 Lubovin-RG-BD.
5. Salt:
 Common Salt,
 Glauber Salt.
6. Sequestering agent:
 Resotext 600S,
 Heptol-EMG,
 Heptol-DBL.

7. Whitening agent:
 Uvitex2B,
 Uvitex BHV,
 Bluton BBV,
 Tuboblanc col,
 Uvitex BAM,
 Synowhite,
 Hostalux ETBN (For polyester fabric).
8. Fixing agent:
 Sandofix EC,
 Tinofix-ECO,
 Protefix-DPE-568,
 Jinfix –SR,
 Optifix-EC.
9. Softener:
 Cetasaft CS,
 Resomine Supper,
 Acelon,
 Resosoft –XCL,
 Silicon (For Finishing).
10. Bleaching agent:
 35 % H2O2
11. Reducing agent:
 Hydrose.
12. Stabilizer:
 Stabilizer PSLT,
 kappazon H53,
 STAB,
 Tinoclarite CBB.
13. Enzyme:
 Tinozyme 44L,
 Rzyme 1000,

 Avozyme CL PLUS,
 Enzyme-B50.
14. Anticreasing agent:
 Kappavon CL,
 Biovin 109,
 AC-200,
 Cibafuid – C,
 MFL.
15. Antifoaming agent:
 Jintex TPA,
 AV-NO,
 VO,
 Cibaflow-JET.
16. PH controller:
 Soda Ash,
 Acid,
 Caustic,
 Neutracid RBT (Nonvolatile).
4.6 Profit or Loss Calculation of Knit Dyeing Project:
A textile engineer who serves his duty in wet processing industry has to know the actual method
of knit dyeing calculation with its cost analysis. Otherwise he cannot perform his best in this
sector. As its importance, this article has presented an easy method for calculation
knit dyeing production with its cost analysis.
We calculate and analysis of a knit dyeing project (5 ton per day capacity) about its profit or loss
percentage per day by using three steps.
Let,
Four tons knit fabrics will be dyed with the same recipe where sales per kg of dyeing that
means dyeing charge is 105 taka
A. Dyeing Recipe and Reagent Cost:
M: L= 1:8,
Thus, liquor required here= (8×5000) = 40000 liter.

SL
No. Reagent
Recipe
amount
Reagent amount for 5
tons (in kg)
Unit costs
of reagent
(tk/kg)
Cost for
reagent
in tk
01 Wetting agent 0.5 gm/l {(40000×0.5)/1000}=20 200 8000
02
Sequestering
agent 2.0 gm/l {(40000×2)/1000}=80 300 24000
03 Stabilizer 1.0 gm/l {(40000×1)/1000}=40 300 12000
04 Caustic soda 3.0 gm/l {(40000×3)/1000}=120 100 12000
05 H peroxide 4.0 gm/l {(40000×4)/1000}=160 50 8000
06 Levafix blue CA 0.25% {(5000×0.25)/100}=12.5 1400 17500
07 Levafix yellow CA 2.80% {(5000×2.80)/100}=140 500 70000
08 Levafix red CA 0.85% {(5000×0.85)/100}=42.5 400 17000
09 Salt 70 gm/l {(40000×70)/1000}=2800 10 28000
10 Soda ash 20 gm/l {(40000×20)/1000}=800 150 120000
11 Soaping agent 2.0 gm/l {(40000×2)/1000}=80 300 24000
12 Softener 1.00% {(5000×1.00)/100}=50 250 12500
Total 353000
B. Miscellaneous Cost:
SL
No. Purpose Cost per kg dyeing
Total cost for 5
tons
01 Salary 20 100000
02 Utilities 8 40000
03 Bank interest 0.1 500
04 Others 2 10000
Total 30.1 150500
C. Profit or Loss Calculation:
Now,
Finally, we have to calculate here the profit or loss for this project.
As we know,
Sales per kg of dyeing is 105 taka,
So,
Total income from sale is 525000 taka,
Total production cost is 503500 taka,
Cost Analysis:
So,
Profit per day,
= Total income from sale Total production cost
= (525000-503500) taka

= 21500 taka
So, profit per day for this knit dyeing projects stands at 21500 taka.
4.7 Dyeing Faults and Remedies
Dyeing is a process of coloring fibers, yarns, or fabrics with either natural or synthetic dyes.
Many known-unknown faults occur during dyeing operation.
Dyeing Faults
Major dyeing faults which occur during are mentioned below:
1. Uneven Dyeing
2. Batch to Batch Shade variation
3. Patchy dyeing effect
4. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation
5. Crease mark
6. Dye spot
7. Wrinkle mark
8. Softener Mark
Uneven Dyeing:
Causes:
 Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
 Improper color dosing.
 Using dyes of high fixation property.
 Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment.
 By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
 Proper controlling of dyeing m/c

Batch to Batch Shade Variation:
Causes:
 Fluctuation of Temperature.
 Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
 Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
 Dyes lot variation.

 Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
 Improper pretreatment.

Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.
 Maintain the same liquor ratio.
 Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
 Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
 Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.
 Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature
in the process.
 The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
Patchy Dyeing Effect:
Causes:
 Entanglement of fabric.
 Faulty injection of alkali.
 Improper addition of color.
 Due to hardness of water.
 Due to improper salt addition.
 Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
 Uneven heat in the machine, etc.
Remedies:
 By ensuring proper pretreatment.
 Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
 Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
 Proper salt addition.
Roll to Roll Variation or Meter to Meter Variation:
Causes:
 Poor migration property of dyes.
 Improper dyes solubility.
 Hardness of water.
 Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.
 Proper m/c speed.
 Use of soft water.

Crease Mark:
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
 Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
 Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Reducing the m/c load
 Higher liquor ratio
Dye Spot:
Causes:
 Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
 Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
 By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
 By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the
large un-dissolved particles are removed.
Wrinkle Mark:
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Higher liquor ratio
Softener Mark:
Causes:

 Improper mixing of the Softener.
 Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
 Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
 Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.
 Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
4.8 Process Flow Chart for 100% Cotton Knit Fabric (Turquoise
Color)
Turquoise Color:
Turquoise is the color of the gem turquoise. It is a slightly greenish shade of cyan. Turquoise is
sometimes described as a mixture of pale blue and green. The name comes from the French for
Turkish.
Turquoise Color

Types of Turquoise Color:
There are six type of Turquoise Color. They are given below:
1. Pale Turquoise
2. Turquoise Blue
3. Bright Turquoise
4. TURQUOISE
5. Medium Turquoise
6. Deep Turquoise
Process Flow Chart for 100% Cotton Knit Fabric (Turquoise Color)
Turquoise is very sensitive color. Its wash fastness is not good. Dyeing process of turquoise
color is slightly difference from other color process.
Fabric loaded
↓
Treating with anti-creasing agent (Room temperature)
↓
Adding detergent
↓
Adding Antifoaming agent
↓
Caustic dosing (dosing 6min)
↓
Peroxide dosing (60˚c; 5min)
↓
Run time 1 hour 95˚c
↓
Sample check
↓
If ok
↓
Drain out
↓
Normal hot (70˚c,10min)
↓
Drain
↓
Adding Peroxide Killer
↓
Run time 55˚c, 10min
↓

Adding Acetic Acid
↓
Run time 10min 55˚c (ph-4.5)
↓
Adding enzyme
↓
Run time 1hour, 55˚c
↓
Enzyme hot- 70˚c, 10min
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank (run time 5min)
↓
Rinsing -4min
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Adding Leveling, Antifoaming & Anti-creasing agent (R.T.)
↓
10min run time (R.T.)
↓
10min run time (60˚c)
↓
Color dosing-30min
↓
10min run
↓
½ Salt dosing-5min
↓
½ Salt dosing -5min
↓
Runtime -25min (60˚c)
↓
Sample check
↓
Soda dosing (2 g/l; 20min)
↓
Remaining Soda dosing (30min)
↓
20 min run
↓
Temp rise 80˚c
↓

Run time-1 hour
↓
Rinsing-5min
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Run time (RT)
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Normal hot (60˚c,10min)
↓
Sample check
↓
Drain
↓
Adding Acetic Acid (room temp,run time-30min)
↓
Sample check
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Adding soaping agent (90˚c, run-10 min)
↓
Drain
↓
Sample check
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Rinsing (5min room temp)
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Run time (5min, room temp)
↓
Drain
↓

Filling in the tank
↓
Dosing-fixing agent (15min)
↓
Run time (20min, room tem)
↓
Sample check
↓
Drain
↓
Filling in the tank
↓
Dosing softener (5min)
↓
Run time (20min,room temp)
↓
Sample check
↓
Unload

CHAPTER 5: TEXTILE DYEING-FINISHING

5.1 Textile Finishing
Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing. In order to
impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the
material to different type of physical and chemical treatments. For example wash and wear
finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease free or wrinkle free. In a similar
way, mercerizing, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, water proof, antistatic finish,
peach finish etc are some of the important finishes applied to textile fabric.
5.2 Textile Finishing m/c in DCKIL
Tubular Finishing Range:
Name of the Machine Unit Brand Origin
De-Watering Slitting 01 Set Bianco Italy
Bag Sewing 01 Set MTG Italy
Stenter 01 Set Bruckner Germany
Campector 01 Set Lafer Italy
Fabric Inspection 01 Set Lafer Italy
Stenter 01 Sets Taida China
Vertical opener 01 Sets Taida China
Open Width Finishing Range
De-Watering Slitting 01 Set Bianco Italy
Bag Sewing 01 Set MTG Italy
Stenter 01 Set Bruckner Germany
Campector 01 Set Lafer Italy

Fabric Inspection 01 Set Lafer Italy
Stenter 01 Sets Taida China
Vertical opener 01 Sets Taida China
5.3 Stenter Machine:
A machine or apparatus for stretching or stentering fabrics. The purpose of the stenter machine
is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for heat setting and it
is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. The main function
of the stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the uniform width.
Functions of Stenter Machines:
1. Heat setting is done by the stenter for lycra fabric, synthetic and blended fabric.
2. Width of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
3. Finishing chemical apply on fabric by the stenter.
4. Loop of the knit fabric is controlled.
5. Moisture of the fabric is controlled by the stenter.
6. Spirility controlled by the stenter.
7. GSM of the fabric is controlled by stenter.
8. Fabric is dried by the stentering process.
9. Shrinkage property of the fabric is controlled.
10. Curing treatment for resin, water repellent fabric is done by the
stenter. 11.

Components of Stenter Machine:
 Paders
 Weft straightner (Mahlo)
 Burners 10
 Heat recovery
 Attraction rollers
 Circulating fans 10,8
 Exhaust fans 2
 Winder 2
 Clips
 Pins
 I.R
 Cooling drums 2
Specification of a Stenter Machine:
Brand Name Bruckner
Serial no 72276-0463
Origin Germany
Year of manufacture 1995
Speed range 15-30 m/min
Temperature range 50-250C
Used utilities Electricity, Gas, Compress air, Steam
Production capacities 8 ton /day
No. of chamber 3
Maximum fabrics width 102”
Minimum fabric width 30”
Steam pressure 2 bar
Air pressure 10 bar
Applied for Open tube fabric
No. of automatic
burner 6
Extra Attachment Mahlo weft straightener
M/C parts
Burner,Nozzle, Exhaust air fan, Over feed
roller, Suction fan, Chain arrangement
5.4 Compacting Machine
Compactor is a textile finishing machine which is designed specially for compacting 100% cotton
knitted fabric like jersey, pique, interlock, plush, rib and sinker etc. as well as cotton blended
fabric in rope form, changing the loft and dimensional stability of the fabric and presenting it to
plaited form. Fitted with two felt compacting units which makes it to obtain top quality fabric,
with minimized shrinking nature and a soft fluffy hand.

Compactor machine
Function of Compactor Machine:
Compactor is important machine in knit fabric finishing process. There are a lot of technical work
which are done by compactor machine. The works are done by compactor machine are pointed
out below:
1. GSM control of the knitted fabric. For high GSM, overfeed is increased and fabric width is
decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric width is increased.
2. Control shrinkage
3. Twisting control
4. Increase smoothness of fabric
5. Heat setting is done of fabric etc.
Checking Parameters of Compactor Machine:
1. Shade Check: Shade of the compacting fabric is checked in the delivery side of the
machine. The operator collects the fabric and compare the shade of the fabric with the
buyer’s approved swatch.
2. Width Check: Operator measures the width of the fabric with the measuring tape and
compares it with the buyer’s requirement.
3. Weight Check: Weight of the fabric is determined by GSM check. Operator checks the GSM
of the fabric by GSM cutter and electric balance.
4. Edge Line Checking: Two edges of the fabric is check in delivery side. If any fix line is
identified, which normally occurs from the expander it should be connected.
5. Design and Slanting: Operator checks design and slanting of the fabric in the delivery side
of the machine.
6. Fabric Faults: Various types of fabric quality are measured in the delivery side of the fabric.

Types of Compactor Machine:
Compactor machines are two types. They are-
1. Tubular compactor: Tubular compactor is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and dryer.
By the compactor machine, compacting is done for control the shrinkage of the fabric. Here,
different types of off line quality of the fabric are measured.
2. Open compactor: Open compactor is used for compacting the open form fabric. Here, slitting
machine is used for open the fabric from the tubular form.
Specification of Open Width Compactor Machine:
Brand name Ferraro
Model no. Comptex/Fv200
Manufacturing country Italy
Temperature 110-140C
Used utilities Electricity,Compressair,Steam
Production capacity 4 ton/day
Maximum width 86”
Minimum width 36”
Applied for Open width
Specification of Tubular Compactor Machine:
Brand name Ferraro
Model no. Comptex/Fv200
Manufacturing country Italy
Temperature 110-140C
Used utilities Electricity,Compressair,Steam
Production capacity 4 ton/day
Maximum width 86”
Minimum width 36”
Applied for Open width
5.5 Slitting Machine
Slitter machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form. In open form
fabric finishing line; slitter machine is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and drying
machine.

Slitting is a process that is applied for cutting the tubular fabric through the intended break
Wales line on lengthwise direction prior to stenter processing. During slitting, it is required to be
aware about the cutting line otherwise, fabric faults can be occurred there.
litter machine
Function of the Slitting Machine:
1. Used to remove excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.
2. To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering.
3. Delivered fabric in crease free state.
4. Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or
air sprayer.
5. It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism.
Main Parts of Slitter Machine and their Functions:
Following are the main machine parts and their functions.
1. Rotary Blade: Rotary blade is used for cutting the fabric through break Wales line.
2. Ring: Ring is use to help the cutting process.
3. Guide Roller: After slitting, plaiting of the fabric is done. Guide roller guides the fabric to
plaiting.
4. Plaiting: Open fabric is make plait by plaiting.
5. Sensor: Sensor is used for identify the specific Wales line. It makes sense
for cutting through break Wales’s line.

Checking Parameters Slitter:
Following parameters are checked after slitting.
1. Cutting Line Check: Fabric cutting line is checked by the operator of the slitting machine.
Operator checks that the rotary blade cut fabric through break Wales’s line or not.
2. Bow and Slant check: Bow and slant is checked in the delivery side of the machine by the
operator.
3. Fabric Faults: Various fabric faults also checked in slitting process.
Operational Parameter:
1. Set the padder pressure as required (3-7bar)
2. Set the speed as much as possible (30-80m/min).
5.6 Dewatering Machine:
In knit fabric finishing process; de-watering machine is used in case of tube or open form fabric
after dyeing. In case of piece goods fabric hydro-extractor machine is used for water removing.
During de-watering process additional chemical is used for soften the fabric. Different types of
operational parameter are controlled during de-watering process.
Dewatering machine
Operational Parameter of Dewatering Machine:
Speed: As much as possible (40-60 m/min). Higher the GSM lower the speed.
Over feed: As required. Higher the GSM higher the over feed.

Padder pressure: 3-7 bar as required. Higher the GSM lower the padder pressure.
Width: Fabric width is adjusted as per required width
5.7 Different finished fabric faults
1. Yarn faults:
 Yarn Contamination
 Neps
 Thick & thin place
2. Knitting Faults
 Sinker mark
 Needle mark
 Hole
3. Dyeing Faults
 Uneven Dyeing
 Dye spot
 Sinker mark
4. Dyeing finishing faults
 Compacting mark
 Over mark
 Calender Mark

Chapter 6: Washing

6.1 Garments Washing
The technology which is used to modify the appearance, outlook comfort ability and fashion of
the garments is called garment washing.
Depending on garments construction different types of washing process can be done.
1. Twill/Canvas/Knitted/Corduroy - Normal wash, Pigment wash, Caustic ,Si wash
2. Denim/Jeans/Gabardine - Enzyme wash, Stone wash, Bleach wash , Acid wash
3. Grey fabric- Super white wash
6.2 Types of Garment Wash:
1. Normal wash/ garment wash/rinse wash
2. Pigment wash
3. Caustic wash
4. Enzyme wash
5. Stone wash
6. Stone enzyme wash
7. Tinting (Tie) & Over Dyeing(Dip Dyeing)
8. Super white wash
9. Bleach wash
10. Acid wash
11. Silicon wash

6.5 Acid wash process sequence
Fabric curing at Tumbler Dryer ( 20-25 min)
↓
Cold smoothly
↓
Foam & Potassium Add
↓
Fabric/ Garments Loading
↓
Run Time (10-15 min or more)
↓
Unload
↓
Cold Wash
↓
Neutralization of potassium
↓
Water &meta add (wash purpose)
↓
Softener/ silicon Add (R.T.)
↓
Unload
↓
Tumbler Dryer
↓
Unload
↓
Inspection

6.6 process Sequence of bleach wash
Garments loading into the machine
↓
De-size
↓
Rinsing (Two times)
↓
Enzyme wash (Depending on the required shade)
↓
Rinsing for two times
↓
Hydro
↓
Japanese bleach taken in the pot
↓
Added required amount of water
↓
Bleach melted perfectly
↓
Added required amount of towel in the melted bleach solution
↓
Put out the towel by squeezing from bleach solution
↓
Machine wash
↓
Drying the machine by using steam
↓
Take bleach soluted towel into the machine
↓
Garments loading into the machine
↓
Tumble the garments (5-10min)
↓
Neutralization
↓
Softening

↓
Hydro
↓
Drying
6.7 Flow Chart of Enzyme Washing Process
Loading of garments
↓
De-sizing
↓
Rinse (Two times)
↓
Addition of enzyme
↓
Adjusting PH for Acid Cellulase or enzyme (4.5-5.5) by adding Acetic acid (CH3COOH).
↓
Required temperature kept for different enzyme
↓
Tumbling for 30-60 minutes (depending on shade)
↓
Rinse (two times)
↓
Softening
↓
Extracting
↓
Drying

CHAPTER 7: EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLAN

7.1 Effluent Treatment Plan
The effluent treatment plant is designed to treat the effluent coming from different areas of the
plant. The treatment of different effluents varies with the type of effluent.
Water is recycled from effluent coming from textile & chemical industries using series
of operations i.e. coagulation, flocculation, aeration, and filtration techniques mainly
reverse osmosis. The effluent produce has high BOD, COD, pH, TSS, TDS and Color material.
7.2 Water Consumption in Textile Processing
The production of textile goods involves spinning (fiber to yarn), weaving / knitting (yarn to
fabric), chemical (wet) processing, and garment manufacturing. The majority of the water
consumption (72%) takes place in the chemical (wet) processing of textiles. The water is
required for preparing the fabric for dyeing, printing and finishing operations, Intermediate
washing / rinsing operations and machine cleaning.
Other major uses of water in the textile industry
 Steam generation (boiler feed water)
 Water treatment plant (reject stream, periodic cleaning of reverse osmosis plant, generation
and washing of demineralization, softener plant, back wash of media filters);
 Cooling (processing machines, cooling tower);
 Humidification (spinning process); and
 Domestic purposes (irrigation of lawn and garden, sanitation, cleaning, drinking and
miscellaneous uses).
7.3 Necessity of ETP
Water is basic necessity of life used for many purposes one of which is industrial use. Industries
generally take water from rivers or lakes but they have to pay heavy taxes for that. So its

necessary for them to recycle that to reduce cost and also conserve it. Main function of this ETP
is to clean GCP effluent and recycle it for further use.
The basic thrust of the technology is to convert entire quantity of effluent to zero level by
separating water and salt using evaporation and separation technology. The concept and the
treatment is based on the removal of the entire COD/BOD and the condensate coming out to
meet the fresh water quality requirement in the process.
7.4 Operation Flow Chart of ETP
Waste water from process house
↓
Screening
↓
Initial lifting/Inlet tank
↓

Storage/ Homogenization (mixing)
↓
Neutralization Task (Acid dosing)
↓
Distributor / Selector tank
↓
Aerobic biological treatment
↓
Sedimentation pack
↓
Post re-oxidation tank
↓
Final discharge
7.5 Basic chemical used in ETP
a. H2SO4
b. Polyelectrolyte
c. Antifoaming Agent:
d. De-colorent
e. Sodium Hypochlorite

7.6 Product Quality Checked:
 Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD)
 Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD)
 Total suspended solids
 Total dissolved solids
 Color
 pH etc.

CHAPTER 8: PRODUCTION

8.1. SAMPLE SECTION
Sample is a product which represents a group of product or lot or batch, in order to assess
their quality, style or design or any other characteristic of the product. Based on the
samples, the buyer will give approval or comments for any alteration in design or style or
quality. Samples will reflect the quality and workmanship of the exporter or manufacturer.
Samples are made to make sure to get a desired style design or fit and good quality in the
particular order.
8.1.1 VARIOUS KIND OF SAMPLE IN DCKIL
In apparel manufacturing the different samples are required as follows –
Original sample – This is the sample given by the buyer to the exporter to develop or make a
counter sample.
Offer sample – This is the sample offered by the exporter to the buyer to get orders which may
be newly developed styles or designs or samples from already sent orders.
Fit sample – This is the first sample made by the exporter based on the original sample or
sketch and specification sheet given by the buyer. The fit sample may be made from available
fabric of same fabric structure, fibre, nearer GSM and any color. This sample is made to check
the fit of the particular style.
Proto sample – After the fit sample is approved, then proto sample is made with the actual
fabric of the particular order in any color. This sample once approved by the buyer will be
considered as the reference sample for production. This is also called as red seal sample.

Photo shoot sample – This sample is required by the buyers who are having own retail chain
stores throughout the country. These buyers do buy for their own stores and they regularly
make catalogue of the products what they sell. These buyers are normally termed as ‘catalogue
buyers’. The catalogue will have the details about the products like their style, style no.,
assortments ranges, and price ranges etc. and also will carry the photos of the models who wear
those garments.
Size set sample – Once the proto sample is approved, based on the pattern of the approved
sample the grading for the other sizes are done and then patterns for other sizes will be made.
Then the samples for all the other sizes are made to check the fit and workmanship.
Fabric sample – Some buyers may require finished fabric samples to check its quality
parameters like fabric handle, hairiness etc. Some buyers require the approval of the fabric also
before going in for fabric production.
Accessories sample – The accessories both the packing and production should be approved by
the buyer if it is sourced by the exporter. Generally all the accessories will be stapled in a
card/sheet duly marked all the details of the accessories, made in duplicates and sent to the
buyers for approval. This card is termed as ‘Trim card’
Photo sample – This is actually not a product sample but it is a photo which will be used to
give or show information or instructions like packing style or form, label positions in the product
and the package, position of carton markings etc.
8.1.2 FLOWCHART OF SAMPLING IN DCKIL
Rec sample program
↓
Pattern making
↓
Fabric rec
↓
Cutting
↓
Bundling
↓
Sewing
↓
Finishing
↓
Quality Check
↓

Folding
↓
Packing
8.2 Cutting Section
We can define cutting as, to cut the cloth according to marking of patterns for sewing a
garment. Fabric cutting section is very important for next sewing section. It is one of the major
section in apparel manufacturing. Cut fabrics are sorted according to the size of the fabrics. After
sorting numbering is done and checking is performed 100% for avoid any types of mistakes.
8.2.1 Process Sequence of Cutting Section
Work order sheet
↓
Certification of assortment
↓
Pattern receiving from production section
↓
Pattern checking
↓
Marker making / Receive the marker from CAD room
↓
Marker checking
↓
Determine the quantity of spreading cloth
↓
Calculate the number of lay per cutting
↓
Number of cutting per order
↓
Receiving fabric from store
↓

Fabric spreading
↓
Check the consumption
↓
Start bulk cutting
↓
Sorting & bundling
↓
Send to sewing section for bulk production
8.2.2 Different Types of Fabric Cutting Machine:
Various types of cutting machine are used in apparel production. From many years hand
operated scissor is used for cutting fabric. But after industrialization hand scissors are not
appropriate for bulk layer cutting. Then started semiautomatic fabric cutting machine. For
increasing productivity in cutting room computerized fully automatic cutting machine have to
use.
According to the working process, the cutting machine may be classified in three categories.
Such as-
1. Manual cutting machine
2. Semi- Automatic cutting machine
3. Fully Automatic / Computerized cutting machine
1) Manual Cutting Machine:
 Hand Operated Scissor
2) Semi-Automatic Cutting Machine:
 Straight knife of Cutting Machine.
 Round Knife Cutting Machine.
 Band Knife Cutting Machine.
 Die Cutting Machine.
 Notcher Machine.
 Drill Machine.
3) Fully Automatic / Computerized Cutting Machine:
 Computer Controlled Knife Cutting Machine.
 Laser Cutting Machine.

 Water Jet Cutting Machine.
 Rib Cutting Machine
 Air jet Cutting Machine.
 Ultrasonic Cutting Machine.
 Plasma Torch Cutting Machine
8.3 Sewing Section
After receive the garments components from cutting section, all the garments parts are joined
and sewn as sequentially. Obviously all the components are sewn respects on buyer
requirement.Sewing section is the most important department of a garment manufacturing
industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the
garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of
assembling operations.
8.3.1 Sewing section organogram
General Manager
↓
Asst. General Manager
↓
Production Manager
↓
Asst. production Manager
↓

Quality controller Manager
↓
Quality Asst. Manager
↓
Quality In charge
↓
Quality Inspector
( Line wise quality control)
↓
Floor In charge
( Floor production Control)
↓
Supervisor
( Line Production Control )
↓
Sewing operator
↓
Helper
8.3.2 Working Procedure of Sewing Department
Garment analysis
↓
Target setup for production (on the basis of ship schedule)
↓
Machine lay out
↓
Operator lay out
↓
Quality control of product
↓
Line balancing
↓
Line setup
↓
Process distribution
↓
Parts received from cutting dept.
↓
Parts storing
↓
Parts distribution to the operator and helper

↓
Position mark to components where required
↓
Parts making (individual)
↓
Inline quality checking
↓
Parts assembling
↓
Inline quality audit
↓
Output counting & checked with the target
↓
End line quality audit
8.3.3 Sewing machine in DCKIL
Total Floor Area: 1,17,740sft. (57 line)
Capacity per Day: 90,000 pcs approx.

Name of the Machine Brand Q.T.Y Made
Single Needle Lock Stitch Juki 260 Japan
Single Needle Lock Stitch Brother 108 China
Single Needle Lock Stitch Brother 125 China
Single Needle Lock Stitch Siruba 96 China
4Thread Over Lock Juki 162 Japan
4Thread Over Lock Juki 15 China
4Thread Over Lock Pegasus 4 Japan
4Thread Over Lock Pegasus 65 China
4Thread Over Lock Siruba 64 China
Flat Lock Cylinder Bed Pegasus 63 Japan
Flat Lock Cylinder Bed Prgasus 38 Japan
Flat Lock Cylinder Bed Siruba 26 China
Flat Lock Cylinder Bed Siruba 8 Japan
Flat Lock Small Cylinder Bed Pegasus 4 Japan
Flat Lock Small Cylinder Bed Kansai 2 Japan
Flat Lock Small Cylinder Bed Orbito 13 China
Flat Lock Cylinder Bed (Compresser) Pegasus 10 Japan
Flat Lock Cylinder Bed (Compresser) Pegasus 13 Japan
Flat Lock Cylinder Bed (Elastic Type) Pegasus 6 China
Flat Lock Flat Bed (Folder Type) Pegasus 32 China
Flat Lock Flat Bed Siruba 26 China
Flat Lock Flat Bed (Folder Type) Siruba 6 China

Flat Lock Cylinder Bed Juki 16 Japan
Flat Lock Flat Bed Juki 21 Japan
Flat Lock Flat Bed Juki 1 Japan
Button Hole Juki 10 Japan
Button Hole Brother 7 Japan
Button Hole Siruba 5 Japan
Button Sewing Juki 5 Japan
Button Sewing Juki 5 Japan
Button Sewing Brother 7 China
Button Sewing Siruba 5 China
Bartack Juki 3 Japan
Bartack Brother 10 China
Bartack Siruba 5 China
Two Needle Chine Stitch Juki 10 Japan
Two Needle Lock Stitch Juki 3 Japan
Two Needle Chine Stitch(Back Tap) Kansai 4 Japan
Picoting Kansai 2 Japan
P.M.D Kansai 6 Japan
Single needle Zig Zag Juki 2 Japan
Feet of the Arm Juki 2 Japan
Scloping Stich Kansai 2 Japan
Smoking Stich Siruba 5 China
Smoking ( 37 Needle Double Chine) Golden Wheel 4 China
Smoking ( 37 Needle Double Chine) Golden Wheel 2 China
Pin Tucking ( 12 Needle Double Chine) Golden Wheel 2 China
Rip Cutting Auto Luna 7 China
Rip Cutting Auto Orbito 5 China

Rip Cutting ) Manual TSSM 9 China
Snap Button ( Auto) Ngaishing 5 China
Snap Button Orbito 5 China
Snap Button Local 4 China
8.3.4 Sewing layout of Tang Top
Buyer: Newfrontier
Item: Tang Top
Line: 46

Process Machine Operator/Helper
Neck piping Flat Lock 1 Operator
Body matching 1 Helper
Side seam join Over Lock 2 Operator
Body marking 1 Helper
Label join Plain Machine 1 Operator
Arm hole piping Flat Lock 2 Operator
Piping mark 1 Helper
Middle mark 1 Helper
Label make Plain Machine 1 Operator
Loop tack Plain Machine 1 Operator
Loop join Plain Machine 2 Operator
Docket attach 3 Helper
Docket tack Plain Machine 2 Operator
Docket middle point mark 1 Helper
Body check 1 Helper
Body hemming Flat Lock 1 Operator
Thread cut 2 Helper
8.3.5 Common Sewing Problem with Causes and Remedies
Various types of sewing problem which are arise during sewing the garments are-
1. Skipped stitches,
2. Unbalance stitch,
3. Staggered stitch,
4. Variable stitch density,
5. Seam puckering,
6. Bobbin or looper thread breakage,
7. Needle thread breakage,
8. Thread fusing when sewing machine stops.

All the above sewing faults have explained in the below with their causes and
remedies:
Skipped stitches
SL
No. Causes Remedies
01
Failure of hook or looper and needle to
enter loop at correct time.
Examine the setting and timing
betweenneedle and hook or looper.
02
Irregular thread tension on upper or lower
loop.
The tension of thread should be
adjusted.
03 Due to needle deflection. Needle should be changed.
04 If needle thread loop size is too small.
Needle size and thread should be
adjusted.
05
When flagging of fabrics is happened
during sewing.
The pressure of pressure foot should be
adjusted perfectly.
06 If sewing thread is unable to form loop. Thread should be changed.
Unbalance stitch
SL No. Causes Remedies
01 Incorrect tension of sewing thread.
Setting of accurate tension to the
thread.
02 Used incorrect thread path. Using of accurate thread path.
03
Incorrect adjustment of needle thread
path. Using of right thread path.
04
Snagging of needle with bobbin case and
positioning finger.
Bobbin case to be smooth and finger
positioning to be set again.
05 If sewing threads are not lubricated.
Better quality threads must be used
here.
Staggered stitch
01 Due to needle deflection. Needle size should be increased.
02 Due to wrong needle point. Needle should be changed.
03
Incorrect adjustment of needle and
thread size.
Needle size and thread size should be
changed.
04 Due to defected motion of feed dog. Feed dog motion should be adjusted.
05
If fabrics not controlled properly in the
feed mechanism.
Accurate pressure of pressure foot
should be adjusted.

Variable stitch density
01
Incorrect unwinding of thread form
package during sewing.
The position of thread guide should be
2.5 times higher than the position
ofthread package.
02
Twisting of needle thread in the bottom
of thread package.
Foam pad should use to the bottom of
thread package.
03 Twisting of thread in thread guide.
Correct threading of sewing thread
during sewing.
04 Excessive tension of thread.
Tension of thread should be less or use
of higher strength threads.
05 Using of broken check spring. Check spring should be changed.
06 Fraying of thread in the needle.
Finer threads should be used or to be
used heavy needle.
07
Becoming more heated of sewing
thread.
Needle lubricant and needle cooler
should be used.
08 Becoming more heated of hook.
Lubricant should be available and test
the distance between needle and hook.
09 Using of low quality sewing thread. Sewing thread should be changed.
Seam puckering
01 Higher thread tension.
Bobbin tension should be kept as low as
possible.
02 Improper thread balance.
Proper thread balance should be
ensured between top and bottom
thread.
03 Incorrect thread types.
Have to maintain tension
guidesproperly.
Bobbin or looper thread breakage:
01
Incorrect winding of threads on to the
bobbin.
Proper winding of threads on to the
bobbin.
02
Excessive tension to the
bobbin threads.
The tension should be adjusted to the
bobbin threads.
03
If the edges bobbin case, looper eye
and so on are more sharpened. The edges should be smooth.
04 Incorrect fitting of bobbin case. Test the size and types of bobbin.

Needle thread breakage:
01
Incorrect winding of threads on to the
bobbin.
Proper winding of threads on to the
bobbin.
02
Excessive tension to the bobbin
threads.
The tension should be adjusted to the
bobbin threads.
03
If the edges bobbin case, looper eye
and so on are more sharpened. The edges should be smooth.
04 Incorrect fitting of bobbin case. Test the size and types of bobbin.
Thread fusing when sewing machine stops:
01 Faulty sewing thread. Should be used better quality thread.
02
Densely woven fabric which is poorly
finished. Should be improved fabric finishing.
03
Damaged needle after sewing thread
breakage. Should be changed the needle.
8.3.6 Sewing Section Inspection
In the apparel industry sewing section is known as the heart of a garments. After receiving all
the component of garments parts from cutting section, then those parts are linked by sewing
machine. In this section manufacturer finally get a complete appearance of garments therefore,
sewing Section is very important department in the garments industry.
For smooth and perfect sewing operation, we need to identify few factors which are important in
garment sewing section. Generally there are three steps for inspection of garments sewing
section. They are as following-
1. Sewing Inspection
2. Seaming Inspection
3. Assembling Inspection
1. Sewing Inspection:
 There should not any needle mark.

 There should not be only defective stitch such as slipped stitch, staggered stitch,
unbalanced stitches.
 Seam puckering should be avoided.
 Stitch density should be uniform.
 There should not have uneven stitch length.
 Oil spot or uneven stitch length should be inspected.
2. Seaming Inspection:
 Unequal width of seam.
 Insecure seam.
 Miss matching of stripe and checks between two components along seam line.
 Trapping of foreign materials inside the seam.

 When face and back side of fabrics are not matched.
 Application of wrong stitch type or wrong seam type.
 Shade variation between sewing.
3. Assembling Inspection:
 Improper size and shape of any component.
 Wrong size of garments.
 Skipping of any design in garments.
Pocket Assembling Process in Garments

 Lack of proper placement of any component in garments.
 Improper placing and fusing of interlining.
 Shade variation from component to component.


8.4 Garments Finishing Section
Finishing is very important section in the garment industry. In this sector we take the finished
goods from sewing section and keep records, then after suckering it we send to iron section.
Then the ironman irons these as per buyer instructions. The thread is sucking, fusing
machine, metal Detector, vacuum table, Steam Iron, Table granding machine, Stan drill machine
etc. are used in the finishing process. Let’s see the steps of garments finishing with brief
descriptions.
Flow Chart of Garments Finishing:

8.4.1 Pressing or Ironing
Pressing or ironing is one of the important processes in the finishing department of readymade
garments industry. There are different types of pressing process applied in the garments.
The pressing or ironing of garment is categorized into five according to the garments types,
designs and materials are given below:
1. No pressing,
2. Minimum pressing,
3. Under pressing,
4. Final pressing,
5. Permanent pressing.
Pressing capacity/hour:
T-Shirt: 100-150 pcs
Hoody: 70-80 pcs
Trouser (Small0: 120-140
Trouser (Large): 100-115
Tang Top: 130-145
Polo Shirt: 80-95
Baby Wear: 120-135

8.4.2 Quality Check
Major point in QC check are:
a. Measurement Check
b. Get up check
c. Seam join check
d. Spot removing
8.4.3 Price Tag & Accessories
Hangtag Photo board
Tag pin Garments size sticker
Lock pin Hanger
Price sticker Hanger size
Tissue paper Stin
Back board Gum tape
8.4.4 Folding
After completing pressing, the garments are folded with a predetermine area. Garments are
folded according to the buyers direction, requirements in a standard area.
Types of folding:
Stand up: Collar is folded and situated at 90* angle.
Semi stand up: Collar is folded with body and situated at 45 degree angle.
Flat pack: Collar is separated as a hole on the body of shirt
Hanger pack: shirt is packed and transported by hanging on the hanger.
8.4.5 Packing
After folding, garments are packing the size of polythene packet is permanent. Specially, it is
needed to ensure the placement of sticker in proper place.

Types of polybag:
 Poly bag with flap
 Poly bag with button
 Adhesive poly or sealing poly
 Lip & gazette bag
 Zip lock bags
 Slider zip lock poly
 Poly tubing/heat sealed
 Plain polybag
 Hanger polybag
8.4.6 Assortment
After completing the packing of garments, it must be placed the garments in a predetermined
pack by sorting according to the size and color then garments are packed into inner box
according to the size and color. This process working in order is called assortment.
Types of assortment:
 Solid color & solid size
 Solid color & assort size
 Assort color & solid size
 Assort size & assort color
8.4.7 Cartoning
At last cartooning or packing the garments according to Buyer comment. The process of packing
of inner boxes entered into the carton is called cartooning. The carton is properly warped by the
scotch tape. Some information like carton box no, size, shipping mark and the destination are
printed on the carton.

Types of carton:
 Inner carton
 Master carton
 Box carton

CHAPTER 9: IE & PRODUCTION PLANNING

9.1 IE & PRODUCTION PLANNING
The garment manufacturing industry faces many global challenges due to various factors
including competition, increased production costs, less productivity/efficiency and labor
attribution. So, there is a need to focus and concentrate on identifying the real issues, taking
corrective actions suited to the specific industrial centre of the unit, empowering the technical
and managerial staff by enhancing their knowledge and ability, analysing orders efficiently and
deciding whether actions are viable for the company.
Industrial Engineering (IE) = Production ↑ Cost ↓ Proper use of all elements ↑ Efficiency ↑
Profit ↑
9.2 Capacity Study
It is exactly the measure of the operator same as capability. It means the operator is capable
ofachieving the performance measured by the study. The major Need for capacity study is to
set Quotas, to motivate operator, and to measure the productions section capacity. By
measuring the individual operator capacities, supervisor can determine the overall capacity of
their section. It is simply the some of individual capacity.
Procedure:
1. Use of stop watch
2. Measure the time study
3. Average the time cycle
Benefits of Capacity Study:
1. Check targets
2. Motivate operators
3. Measure section production capability
9.3 Method Study:
Method study is the systematic recording and critical examination of existing and proposed
ways of doing work, as a means of developing and applying easier and more effective methods
and reducing costs. The procedures which need to do follow while doing method study are
given as follows. There are seven steps to be followed by industrial engineers to do method

study they are,
1. Select the work to be studied
2. Define the objective
3. Record the relevant information and data
4. Examine information and data
5. Develop the improved method
6. Install improved method
7. Maintain the improved method
8. Work measurement
9.4 Time Study
Work measurement is carried out by time study. Time study is a work measurement
technique for recording the times and rates of working for elements of a specified job carried
out under specified conditions and for analyzing the data so as to obtain the time necessary
for carrying out the job at a level of performance. The concept of Rating is fundamental of
time study. Rating is the process used by industrial engineer to compare the actual
performance of the operator with operator mental concept of normal performance.
9.5 Motion Study
Motion study involves the analysis of the basic hand, arm and body movement of workers as
they perform work. On the other hand, work design involves the methods & motions used to
perform a task.
The design involves;
 The workplace layout & environment
 The tooling & equipment’s
 Work design is the design of the work system
9.6 Tools and Techniques of Industrial Engineering Used in Apparel Industry
Tools of Industrial Engineering:
The main aim of tools are to improve the productivity of the organization by optimum utilization
of organizations resources: men, materials, and machines. The major tools used in industrial
engineering are:
1. Production planning and control.
2. Inventory control.
3. Job evaluation.
4. Facilitates planning and material handling.
5. System analysis.
6. Linear programming.
7. Simulation.

8. Network analysis (PERT, CPM).
9. Queuing models.
10.Assignment.
11.Sequencing and transportation models.
12.Games theory and dynamic programming.
13.Group technology.
14.Statistical techniques.
15.Quality control.
16.Decision making theory.
17.Replacement models.
18. Assembly line balancing.
19. MRP-JIT-ISO-TQM.
Techniques of Industrial Engineering
Planning and designing manufacturing processes and equipment is a main aspect of being an
industrial technologist. An Industrial Technologist is often responsible for implementing certain
designs and processes.
 Method study
 Time study (work measurement)
 Motion Economy
 Value Analysis
 Financial and non-financial Incentives
 Production, Planning and Control
 Inventory Control
 Job Evaluation
 Material Handling Analysis
 Ergonomics (Human Engineering)

CHAPTER 10: MERCAHNDISING SECTION

10.1 Merchandising
Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production departments. It is
the methods, practices, and operations used to promote and sustain certain categories of
commercial activity. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from
start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and
marketers work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers.
The teams are made according to the buyers being handled.
10.2 Merchandiser
The person who is related in merchandising is called merchandiser. The merchandiser
coordinates with the design team to effectively present the product or product line. He or she
develops colors and specifications, and performs market research to determine the most
effective ways to sell and promote the product. This person needs strong communication and
negotiation skills and visual and analytical abilities. He or she also needs to be a creative and
innovative thinker.
If anybody has to be designated as Merchandiser then the word itself demands some qualities
from that individual, now let us see what all are the hidden meanings there in the word
MERCHANDISER.
M- Should have good Managerial capacity.
E- Efficient in both English written and spoken.
R- Having high sense of Responsibility.
C- Always keep commitment.
H- Leads Honest life.
A- Attitude should always be positive in resolving any problem.
N- Never does any argue with buyers and seniors.
D- Fully Devoted to his service.
I- Always well Informed about his all orders.
S- Sincere in office and daily works.
E- Enthusiastic in nature.
R- Regular in e-mail correspondence.
Responsibilities of a smart Merchandiser are handling order at four stages.
 Sourcing for future orders/Buyers
 New Order
 Confirmed Order
 Running Order

10.3 Types of Merchandising
Two type of merchandising done in garment exports
1. Marketing merchandising.
2. Product merchandising.
1. Marketing Merchandising:
Main function of marketing merchandising is
 Product Development
 Costing
 Ordering marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has
direct contact with the buyer.
2. Product Merchandising:
 Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing
to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till
shipment.
10.4 Merchandisers key responsibility is as follows:
 Product Development
 Market and product Analysis
 Selling the concept
 Booking orders
 Confirming Deliveries
 Designing and Sampling
 Costing
 Raw Material
 Flow Monitoring
 Production Follow Ups
 Payments Follows
 Internal & external communication,
 Sampling

 Lab dips
 Accessories & trims
 Preparing internal order sheets
 Preparing purchase orders
 Advising and assisting production,
 Advising quality department about quality level
 Mediating production and quality departments
 Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
 Helping documentation department
 Taking responsibility for inspections and
 Following up the shipment.
10.5 Business Development Procedure
Apparel industry must be developed with the trend of market otherwise they cannot extend their
business. To collect new buyer and business with them a company must follow the procedure of
business development. Buyers have been chosen by two ways. Firstly, Buyer chooses the
supplier and the second one sometimes, DELTA COMPOSITEwant to work with a particular
buyer and then contact with them according to that. The DELTA GROUP follow the procedure of
business development, this are given below-
Buyer Selection
↓
Company arrange a meeting with buyer for business
↓
First E-mail to the buyer
↓
Collect audit pass report from buyer
↓
Offer to buyer for visit the company
↓
Company arrange a meeting with buyer for business
↓
Sampling stage
↓
Price negotiation
↓
Price conforms and order place from buyer

10.6 Sending quality samples to new buyer for better
understanding of workmanship of factory
Samples play a vital role to get new order. Without quality sample suppliers canot
develop a new business, so sample should be better quality before bulk production.
For that reason sending quality sample to the buyer we have to follow something,
those are:
Use combed yarn
↓
Properly dyeing
↓
Good pattern making
↓
sewing perfectly
↓
Use quality full Accessories
↓
Finishing properly
↓
Use quality full packing elements
↓
Re-check measurement & quality
↓
Send sample with forwarding letter & measurement sheet
If merchandisers follow this process to make quality sample and send as like this way, then
buyer will be satisfied and get clear idea about workmanship of factory.
10.7 Approval procedure of sales samples
Sample is made when price is confirmed and orders are placed, usually is M size in all color
combinations of expected order. Buyer held a meeting with its customer and records their
response on order quantity per color, size etc. and finally place order to their vendor. Sales
sample basically use catalogue buyer.
Send sales sample to buyer with goodpacking
Buyer check fabric quality
Garments design (Print, Embroidery)

Wash quality
Measurement maintenance
Overall finishing quality
Approve sample
10.8 Cost sheet & consumption sheet preparation
In order to achieve perfect garment costing, one must know about all the activities including
purchase of fabrics, sewing, packing, transport, overheads, etc.
Particulars Light colors Medium colors Dark colors
34's combed yarn Tk.135.00 Tk.135.00 Tk.135.00
Fabric cost per garment Tk.38.06 Tk.40.13 Tk.44.27
Cost of Trims Tk.0.85 Tk.0.85 Tk.0.85
CMT Charges Tk.11.00 Tk.11.00 Tk.11.00
Cost of accessories Tk.1.35 Tk.1.35 Tk.1.35
Rejection of garments Tk.1.50 Tk.1.50 Tk.1.50
Cost of Garment Tk.52.76 Tk.54.83 Tk.58.97
Local Transport Tk.1.00 Tk.1.00 Tk.1.00
Profit@15% appro. Tk.7.90 Tk.8.20 Tk.8.90
Commission/ pc Tk.2.00 Tk.2.00 Tk.2.00
Price of Garment Tk.63.66 Tk.66.03 Tk.70.87

Shipping Charges
For men's basic T-shirt, the delivery terms in the buyer enquiry as 'FOB'. So sea freight charges are
not added. But the local transport with the cost of garment has to be added. Finally, we have to
convert the TK value to USD or Euro.
Fabrics Price
Knit fabric price is the sum of the below factors-
1.Yarn price per kg (approx $6.40)
2.Fabric price per yard (approx $0.15)
3.Dyeing price per kg (approx $1.5)
4.Finishing price per kg (approx $0.50)
Thus the fabric price per kg comes ($6.40+$0.15+$1.5+$0.50)= $8.55
Fabrics consumption for a European T-Shirt is 3.00 kgs per dozon. So fabrics price per dozon is
(3.00 * 8.55) = $25.65
Trimming Price
Trims cover all the trims used in the garments except the basic fabric. There are hundreds of
items used to manufacture the garments, proper selection of trims and its quality are very
important for styling, otherwise the garment maybe rejected or returned by the customers. As
our assignment is based on basic T-Shirt, normally care label, main label, size label, sewing
thread, poly bag, price ticket, carton, tag pin, gum tape, etc trim are used in a basic T-Shirt.
Like, normally the trim cost per dozen comes approx. $2.00 for basic T-Shirt.
CM calculation
CM means cost of cutting to making. It includes the cost of cutting, cost of sewing and the cost
of packing. It also includes the overhead cost of the plant and the profit margin. Like, Generally
CM per dozen of a basic T-Shirt is $5.00
Other embellishment calculation
Other embellishment means print, embroidery, patch etc that makes any garment more
attractive for customer as here I described about the cost of Harriet shirt where other prints,
appliqués and embroideries are not available so, any embellishment cost is not calculated here.

Industrial trainning Keya knitting composite

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