Textile Internship Report (Part-2)

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GENERAL INFORMATION OF THE FACTORY
Name of the Factory : FakirApparels Limited.
Type : 100% Export oriented composite
knitwear industry.
Year of Establishment : 1998.
Factorylocation : A-127-131, B-501-503,
Bscic I/AEnayetnagar.
Shashongao, Fatullah.
Narayangonj-1400, Bangladesh.
Head office : 89, Motijheel, Lucky Chamber.
Roomno, 77-79, Dhaka-1000.
TotalSpace : 700, 000 square feet
Employee : 7500
Production capacity (Garments) : 140,000 pcs per day
Production Capacity(Knitting) :20 tons per day.
Production Capacity (Dyeing) : 30 tons per day.
Sewing line : 90.
Sewing Machine used : 2500 nos.
Final inspection System : 4 points.

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FactoryGarments Quality
 Product quality is assured in every step of operation from sourcing to packing.
We’ve Independent Audit team to monitor the whole quality and inspection
procedureand reporting directly to TOP management.
 Fabric inspection: 4 point fabric inspection method
 Inline Inspection: Traffic light system (7pcs)
 Mid line /Pre-final : AQL 1.5
 90 degree needle/metal detection arrangement based on customer requirement.
Product
All types of knit wears, especially Basic & Fancy T-Shirt for all ranges, Polo Shirt,
Night wear, Shorts, KIDS items, Tank Top etc.
 Wide range of fabrics like single Jersey, Rib, Interlock, etc.
 Grey Fabric, Spandex, Dyed fabric and Printed fabric
 Fabric dia ranging from 14″ to 32″
 Customer specified GSM
 Dyed yarns for knitting
Production of knitted fabrics 20000 kgs per day Brand new circular knitting
machine from Mayer &Cie (Germany) are installed in our factory. We can
producethe following types of knitted fabrics:
 Single Jersey
 Pique (Lacoste)
 Double thread fleece
 Selanik
 Interlock Rib and others.
All knitted fabrics can be produced with addition of spandex (Lycra) up to 60-70%
percent.

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Production Planning:
Planning sits at the heart of any business, Using Modern UK based Production
Planning software “FASTREACT”for determining strategic marketing plan,
Production Planning / Critical Path, Delivery control.
Our on time delivery performance from Jan to Feb/13 is 98.5%, target for 100%
by the end of year 2013.
Annual turnover : 75 million USD.
Vision:
 To build true marketing led enterprise with motivated workforce, innovative
vision & more value added product portfolio, customer satisfaction &
understanding of global market.
 To be a world-class quality apparels manufacturer by satisfying social, ethical
and environmental commitment.
 To be one of the best leading composite mill in the Bangladesh.
Mission:
 Execution of Lean manufacturing system in manufacturing processes
 Corporatepractice in management system
 Be maximum flexible and transparent with our valued customers and suppliers

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CERTIFICATES
• ISO 9001:2000 certified.
• Control Union
• BSCI
• OEKO-TEXcertified
• Wrap Gold Certificate

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BUYERS
• H & M.
• Tom Tailor.
• Ahlense.
• S.Oliver.
.
• C&A etc.
• Primark.
• Esprit

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PRODUC MIX
• 100% cotton.
• CVC (Chief value of cotton).
• PC/TC (The more % of polyester).
• Mélange-
1. Grey mélange : 10% viscose+ 90% cotton.
: 15% viscose+ 85% cotton.
2. Anthra mélange : > 50% viscose.
3. Ecro mélange : 2% viscose + 98% cotton.
4. Camel mélange : 1% viscose.
DEPARTMENTS RELATED WITH PRODUCTION
1. Yarn store.
2. Knitting section.
3. Raw fabric store & inspection section.
4. Batching.
5. Chemical Store.
6. Color lab section.
7. Dyeing Section.
8. Finishing section.
9. Quality controlSection
10.Maintenance
11.Water Treatment plant

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SUPPORTING DEPARTMENT
1. Procurement
2. IE
3. Medical
4. Merchandising
5. Administration
6. Marketing
7. Security
8. IT
9. HRD
10. Finance & accounting.

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ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING SECTION:
Knitting Manger
Assistantknitting
Manager
Senior Production
Officer
Production officer
Asst. Production officer
Junior Production
Officer
Supervisor
Operator
Helper

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KNITTING
Knitting is the process ofcreating fabric by the intermeshing of loops of yarn.
Each row of such loops hanging from the one immediately preceding it. There are
two types of knitted fabric.
Raw Material for Knitting
The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range
of count are used. In yarn store section we had the chance to know about
different yarns of different count used in Fakir Apparels Limited. We also have
known different yarn manufacturer/suppliers name for this knitting section i.e.
sources of yarn. Both carded and combed yarn is used for knitting.
Cotton 24S, 26s,30S, 32S,34S,40S
Polyester 75D, lO0D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D
Grey Mélange (C 24S,26S
Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S,26S,28S
Anthra Mélange (C-65% V-35%)
24S,26S,28S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton)24S,26S,28S,30S
CVC 24S,26S,28S,30S

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KNITTING SECTION IS DIVIDED IN FOUR SECTIONS:
1. Inspection section
2. Flat knitting section
3. Circular Knitting section
4. Store section
I. Cloth Inspection Section:
In cloth inspection section three machines are available. Specification of those
machines is given below
Type Cloth Inspection Machine Manufacturer name
Uzu fabric Inspection
County Thailand
Model No. UZ 900.31
2. Flat Knitting Section:
Generally collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section. In this
section there are 25 flat knitting machines. All of them are same type and also
have same specification. The specification of all machines is given below:
Type Automatic Flat knitting machine
Manufacturer name Precision Fukuhara Works Ltd.
Country Japan
Model No. l-100
Gauge G14
3. Circular Knitting Section:
This section contains 72 circular knitting machines. Circular knitting machines
are of different types, made by different manufacturer and also have different
specifications. In this section body fabric for knitted garments is produced. The
different specifications of different machines are given one after another
4. Store section:
In this section knitted fabric and yarns are stored.

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MACHINE LIST OF KNITTING SECTION IN FAL
(Floor-1):
Machine name Machine Quantity
Circular Knitting(Single jersey)
Machine
50
Circular Knitting(Rib) Machine 21
Engineering Stripe Machine 02
V-bed Knitting Machine 12
Grey Fabric Inspection Machine 03
SPECIFICATIONOF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Machine no: A1
Machine type: Single jersey
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C)
Origin: Taiwan
Machine dia &Gauge: 40”; 24G
No of Feeder: 120
No of needle: 3000
Machine no: A2
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 108
No of needle: 2712
Machine no: A3
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 102
No of needle: 2544
Machine no: A4
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle: 2400
Machine no: A5
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 114
No of needle: 2880
Machine no: A6
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 114
No of needle: 2880

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Machine no: A7
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 108
No of needle: 2712
Machine no: A8
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle: 2400
Machine no: A9
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 90
Machine no: A10
Machine type: Double Jersey
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD-2X4)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 88
No of needle: 2256 No of needle: 2484
Machine no: A11
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 84
No of needle: 2376
Machine no: A12
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 80
No of needle: 2256
Machine no: A13
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 76
No of needle: 2136
Machine no: A14
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 108
No of needle: 2712
Machine no: A15
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 108
No of needle: 2712
Machine no: A16
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 108
No of needle: 2712

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Machine no: B1
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-2)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 78
No of needle: 1968
Machine no: B2
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 84
No of needle: 2112
Machine no: B3
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 84
No of needle: 2112
Machine no: B4
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle: 2256
Machine no: B5
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle: 2256
Machine no: B6
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle: 2400
Machine no: B7
Origin: Taiwan
Machine no: B8
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle:
2400
No of Feeder: 90
No of needle:
2256
Machine no: B9
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle: 2400
Machine no: B10
Brand: Fukuhara (MXC-DF3D)
Origin: Japan
No of Feeder: 102
No of needle: 2136

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Machine no: B11
Origin: Japan
No of Feeder: 102
No of needle: 2136
Machine no: B12
Origin: Japan
No of Feeder: 108
No of needle: 2265
Machine no: B13
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-32-4)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle: 2400
Machine no: B14
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-C2)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 76
No of needle: 1968
Machine no: B15
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS34-4)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 102
No of needle: 2563
Machine no: B16
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS-36-4)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 108
No of needle: 2712
Machine no: B17
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS38-4)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 114
No of needle: 2880
Machine no: B18
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 114
No of needle: 2880
Machine no: B19
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 114
No of needle: 2880
Machine no: B20
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLS)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 114
No of needle: 2880
Machine no: B21
Machine no: B22

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Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle: 2400
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle: 2400
Machine no: B23
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 90
No of needle: 2256
Machine no: B24
Brand: Mayer & Cie
Origin: Germany
No of Feeder: 96
No of needle: 2268
Machine no: B25
Origin: Japan
No of Feeder: 90
No of needle: 1884
Machine no: B26
Origin: Japan
No of Feeder: 90
No of needle: 1884
Machine no: B27
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 120
No of needle: 3000
Machine no: B28
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 120
No of needle: 3000
Machine no: B29
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 126
No of needle: 3168
Machine no: B30
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 132
No of needle: 3312

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Machine no: B31
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 102
No of needle: 2544
Machine no: B32
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 102
No of needle: 2544
Machine no: B33
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 102
No of needle: 2544
Machine no: B34
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 102
No of needle: 2544
Machine no: B35
Machine no: B36
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 102
No of needle: 2544
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 108
No of needle: 2712
Machine no: B37
Machine type: RIB
Brand: Maye & Cie (D4-2.2)
Origin: Germany
No of Feeder: 72
No of needle: 1680
Machine no: C1
Machine type: RIB
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD N1)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 76
No of needle: 2136
Machine no: C2
Machine type: RIB
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 76
No of needle: 2136

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Machine no: C3
Machine type: RIB
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 80
No of needle: 2256
Machine no: C4
Machine type: RIB
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD 2X2)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 84
No of needle: 2376
Machine no: C5
Machine type: RIB
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 64
No of needle: 1800
Machine no: C6
Machine type: RIB
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 64
No of needle: 1800
Machine no: C7
Machine type: RIB
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 72
No of needle: 2040
Machine no: C8
Machine type: RIB
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 72
No of needle: 2880
Machine no: C9
Machine type: RIB
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLR 36)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 72
No of needle: 1800
Machine no: C10
Machine type: RIB
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLD36- 2X4)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 72
No of needle: 2712
Machine no: C11
Machine type: RIB
Machine no: C12
Machine type: RIB
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 68
No of needle: 1920
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 88
No of needle: 2484

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Machine no: C13
Machine type: RIB
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 68
No of needle: 1920
Machine no: C14
Machine type: RIB
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 60
No of needle: 1704
Machine no: C15
Machine type: RIB
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLR N1)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 64
No of needle: 1800
Machine no: C16
Machine type: RIB
Brand: Jiunn Long (JLR34- 2X4)
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 72
No of needle: 2544
Machine no: C17
Machine type: RIB
Origin: Taiwan
No of Feeder: 68
No of needle: 1920
Machine no: C18
Machine type: RIB AUTO STRIPPER
Brand: FUKUHARA
Origin: Japan(VFY6)
No of Feeder: 68
No of needle: 1922
Machine no: C19
Machine type: Single jersey AUTO
STRIPPER
Brand: FUKUHARA
Origin: Japan(VFY6)
No of Feeder: 84
No of needle: 2544

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Others Machines in Knitting Section:
01. Gray Fabric Inspection Machine
Brand: Uzu cloth inspection
Machine Manufacturer: AATPR
INDUSTRY CO.LTD. Model: UZ
– 900-3
Origin: Thailand.
No. of Machine: 03
Sequence of Operations of Knitting Section:
Booking received from buyer
Make sample (R & D)
Sample approved
Work order
Planning
Bulk – production
Yarn package in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder
Cam Setting according to design
Knitting action perform
Withdraw the rolled fabric
Weighting
Numbering
Grey inspection
Dyeing & finishing

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Final inspection
Packing
Delivery to Buyer
Procedureof Yarn Requisition of Knitting Section
Booking by merchandiser or marketing department
Determination of yarn count by operation department
Giving requisition
Supply chain
Store receives as per invoice, packing list & L.C.
Issue
Sample to lab. For quality
Q.C. pass
Pass Fail
Stockgives MRIR Material return to supplier
Material input in ledger
Physically arrangement in stockas per location
Issue for knitting

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PRODUCT MIX
SINGLE JERSEY
 S/J
 LYCRA S/J
 YARN DYED S/J
 POLO PIQUE
 SINGLE LACOSTE
 DOUBLE LACOSTE
 FLEECE
 LYCRA FLEECE
DOUBLE JERSEY
 1×1 RIB
 1×1 LYCRA RIB
 YARN DYED RIB
 2×1 RIB
 2×2 RIB
 2×2 LYCRA RIB
 INTERLOCK
Type of Collar
 TIPPING COLLAR
 SOLID COLLAR
 RAISING COLLAR
 PEACOT COLLAR
 WAISY BAND / HEM
CONSIDERABLEPOINTS TO PRODUCEKNITTED FABRICS
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to
production & quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are
needed to consider. These are follows
1. Type of fabric or design of fabric.
2. Fabric composition.
3. Finished G.S.M

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4. Yarn count.
5. Types of Yarn (combed or carded)
6. Diameter of the fabric.
7. Stitch length.
8. Color depth.
PRODUCTION CALCULATION
A. Production/2 hours in kg
=
πDG X S.L (mm) X No.of feeder X RPM X 60 X 8 X Efficiency X Feeder/course (kg)
2.54 X 36 X 840 X Ne X 2.2046
B. Production/shift in meter:
=
RPM X No.of Feeder X 60 X 12 X Efficieny
𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠𝑒
𝑐𝑚
𝑋 100
C. Fabric width in meter: =
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝑁𝑜.𝑜𝑓 𝑁𝑒𝑒𝑑𝑙𝑒
𝑊𝑎𝑙𝑒𝑠
𝑐𝑚
𝑋 100
TYPES OF KNIT FABRIC PRODUCED BY“FAKIR APPARELS LTD”
1. Double jersey
2. Single jersey
3. Various stripes.

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4. Pique
5. Double pique

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4. Single Lacoste
5. Double Lacoste

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KNITTING FAULTS COMMONLY FOUND
Drop Stitches (Holes)
Hole in fabric
MajorCauses:
• High Yarn Tension
• Yarn Overfeed or Underfeed
• High Fabric Take Down Tension
• Defects like Slubs, Neps, Knots etc.
• Incorrect gap between the Dial & Cylinder rings.
Remedies:
1. Ensure uniform yarn tension on all the feeders with a Tension Meter.
2. Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated as per the required Stitch
Length.
3. The fabric tube should be just like a fully inflated balloon, not too tight or too
slack.

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4. The yarn being used should have no imperfections like; Slubs, Neps & big
knots etc
5. The gap between the Cylinder & the Dial should be correctly adjusted as per
the knitted loop size.
Barrie
Causes:
• High Yarn Tension
• Count Variation
• Mixing of the yarn lots
• Package hardness variation
Remedies:
• Ensure uniform Yarn Tension on all the feeders.
• The average Count variation in the lot should not be more than + 0.3
Ensure that the yarn being used for Knitting is of the same Lot.
• Ensure that the hardness of all the yarn packages is uniform using a hardness
tester.
Streakiness
Causes:
• Faulty winding of the yarn packages.
• Yarn running out of the belt on the Pulley Remedies:
• Winding of the yarn package should be proper.
• The yarn should be running between the belt and around the pulley.

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BATCHING OR BATCH
According to TextileGlossary.com ––
“A group of units of products of the same type, structure, color and finish, class
and composition, manufactured under essentially the same conditions and
essentially at the same time, and submitted at any one time for inspection and
testing.” Types of Batching:
1. Solid batch
2. Assortbatch
Function or Purpose of Batch Section
- To receive the grey fabric, roll from knitting section or other source.
- Turn the grey fabric if require.
- To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following
criteria – Order sheet (Received from buyer)
• Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)
• MACHINE capacity
• MACHINE available
• Type of fabrics(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) Emergency
- To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
- To keep records for every previous dyeing.
Proper batching criteria
- To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing Machine.
- To minimize the washing time or preparation time & Machine stoppage
time.
- To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade.
- To use a particular Machine for dyeing same shade.

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Batch management
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above
criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch
plan from dyeing manager. Sometime planning is adjusted according to
Machine condition or emergency.
Machine used in the batching:
1. Back sewing Machine: Used to form tube fabric form from open fabric.
2. Reverse sewing Machine: Used only for single jersey fabric to replace the
back part with front part in dyeing of critical
shade.
Batchcalculationratio:
No. of Batch=
Calculationfor Rope Length:
Rope Length (L) =
m.
In case of fabric in tube Dia, Ropelength (L/) m
For lycra = Process lost+ 7% only full feeder lycra.
Loading/ Nozzle = m.

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COLOR LAB
Color is the pre-stage of dyeing procedure. In color lab recipe is prepared for
specific fabric to achieve desired shade or color according to the buyer.
SEQUENCE OF LAB OPERATIONS
A number of operations are done in lab section. This are-
Fabric is always recommended by buyer & dyes selection depends upon the
technician decision.
1. Swatch receives: Swatch is received from the buyer & it comes to the lab
section through the merchandiser.
2. Fabric & dye selection: According to the buyer swatch , the type of fabric is
selected & the dye selection depends on the following factor:
a. The dye stuff contains “Metamerism” or not.
b. The dye stuff is suitable for producing particular color.
c. Sometimes buyers recommended the dye to produceparticular color.
d. The costof dye stuff.
Swatch receives (physical
std. Or reflectance value)
Fabric & dye selection
Recipe prediction
Sampling & pipetting
Dyeing
Dispatch

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3. Recipe prediction: Recipe is determined by matching with reference book or
Spectrophotometer.
a. By the spectrometer the std. of the swatch is saved in computer.
b. Then by data color software after selecting the dye some recipes are found
with the best suitable recipe comes first & then others.
c. If the recipe shows “Metamerism” then changes the selected dye.
4. Sampling & pipetting: According to the recipe, the required fabric, dyes &
chemicals are weighted & stock solutions are made. Then pipe ting is done
according to the recipe. Stock solutions are made according to the recipe%.
Such as-
For Dye
a. If recipe % (0.0001- <0.001) then stocksolution % (0.01%)
b. If recipe% (0.001- <0.1) then stocksolution % (0.1%)
c. If recipe % (0.1-0.8) then stock solution% (0.5%)
d. If recipe% (0.9-4.9) the stock solution% (2.5%)
e. If recipe % (≥5) then stocksolution % (5%)
For Auxiliaries:
Salt – 20% stock solution; Soda:10% stocksolution.
Acetic Acid: 0.5 g/l; Detergent: 200ml/l;
Leveling agent: 3.5 g/l;
Pipette use in lab section: 0.1 ml – 1 ml & 5 ml to 20 ml.
5. Dyeing: After completing pipe ting according to the recipe, the weighted
fabric is taken in sample dyeing Machine beaker & dyeing is completed. Here
sample wt. 10gm & liquor ratio 1:8.
6. Dispatch: After completing dyeing, the samples are checked by
spectrophotometer or by eye vision in verified matching cabinet. If it shows
“Metamerism” then recipe correction is done & again samples are prepared
until no “Metamerism” & shade match occur. Then in a lab dip card 3

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samples are attached. One card is sent to merchandiser & another to buyer
through merchandiser.
If the buyer chooses the sample then the recipe is send to the dyeing section for
bulk productionthrough lab dip program card.
SPECTROPHOTOMETER
The main function of spectrophotometer is to provide the best suitable recipe to
dye sample comparing with corresponding standard. If the first recipe fails to
fulfill the expectation then it corrects the recipe.
Necessity:
a. Color matching is hard task so it makes the task easier.
b. It saves our times which provide assistance on productionprocess.
c. It works upon some proved theory so the answer is approximately correct.
THEORY
Spectrophotometer is based upon “Kubelka-mank” theory which builds up a
relation between reflectance & concentration. The ““ Kubelka-mank” values
(k/S) is calculated from the reflectance value of standard by the following
equation—
Where, K = Absorption co-efficient of the sample.
S = Scattering.
R = Reflective value.
Components
1. Computer,
2. Spectroflash,
3. CIE lab software.
WORKING PROCEDURE:
1. Calibration: The Machine is calibrated for different aperture view with three
different calibration standard, they are—
a. Black b. Green. c. White.

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Two types of view are mostly used. They
are— Small aperture view (aperture is 9 mm
in dia.)
Large aperture view (aperture is 30mm in dia.)
Valid time– The valid time for work can be varied according to the users. It can be
set for 2, 6, and 8 hours or more.
27
2. Data input: Self shades of particular company are prepared with various
percentage in the lab & the reflectance value of each sample is scanned in
spectrophotometer.
3. Reflectance value measurement of swatch: Buyer provides either color or
certain pantone number. This is set on to the spectroflash & the Machine will
automatically calculate the reflectance value & saved it in memory.
4. Recipe giving: Considering all parameters we have to select suitable dyes & the
Machine will show some possible recipes. The factor affects dye selection much
is “Metamerism”.
5. Compare: After preparing the sample, the reflectance value of the samples are
compared with std. one, depending upon L* a* b* values the computer will show
the dE value which represents the total color difference between the sample &
the std.
If dE > 1 the color does not match.
If dE ≤ 1 then color match.
6. Recipe correction: Depending upon the reflectance value & dE value the
computer corrects the recipe until acceptable dE value & color matching are not
obtained.
VERIVIED CABINET
It is the cabinet where dyed or OBA applied samples are checked under different
light sources either they show Metamerism or match with the swatch.
Light sources:a. D65, 2. TL84, 3. F, 4. UV.
Color temp: The temp. at which when a perfect at black body is heated then it
emitted that type of light energy of specific wave length.

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Theoryof color:
Pigment theory: According to this theory primary colors are Red, Blue, & Yellow
& secondary colors are Violet or purple, Orange & Green.
When these three colors are in equal amount we get black color. Black is called” It
is presence of color absence of light”
Yellow
Black
Blue
Violet/ purple
TERTIARYCOMBINATION:
Orange + Violet = Burgundy.
Violet + Green = Grey.
Green + Orange = Brown.
CIE Lab theory: In 1976 recommended the CIE lab system–
White (L*=100)
Green (a*-) Yellow (b* +)
Blue
(b*–) Red
(a*+)
Black L*=0
Green Orange

39 | P a g e
• There are three parameters calculated are L*, a*,b*.
• L* is a vertical scale express lightness or darkness & Black L*= 0 & white L*
=100. a* vertical scale on L* means Red or Green. If a* += then it is Red &
a* - =Green.
• b* vertical scale on a* means Blue or Yellow. If b* + = then it is yellow & b*– =
Blue.
The values of L*, a*, b* are calculated from the tristimulus values of the color (X,
Y, Z) & each value being first divided by corresponding tristimulus values of the
appropriate illuminate
(Xn, Yn, Zn) .
1. L*=116 (Y/Yn)1/3 -16,
2. a* =500 ((X/Xn)1/3 –(Y/Yn)1/3)
3. b*= 200((Y/Yn)1/3 – (Z/Zn)1/3)
RecentLCH–
Hue: Hue is the color of an object that we perceive.
Value: value denotes the degree of lightness. Color can be classified as light or
dark when we comparing the value. Example, when placing a tomato & reddish
side by side in contrast the reddish has a dark red value.
Chroma: The vividness or dullness of color describing its chroma. Again
comparing the tomato & reddish the red of tomato is much vivid than reddish.
Chroma C*ab = (a*2 +b*2)1/2 & Hue =tan-1 (b*/a*).
WORKING FLOW CHART OF COLOR LAB
Receive original swatch/QTX file/Pantone from
buyer
Collect 1st recipe by reference/Spectrophotometer
Calculate the recipe

40 | P a g e
Pipette by automatic dispensing system or by
manually
Add fabric and auxiliaries on dye bath
Load into dye machine
Maintain time and temp. for dyeing in dye machine
Unload time and temp. for dyeing in dye machine
Unload after dyeing
Cold wash
Acid wash
Cold wash
Hot wash with specific time and temp.
Cold wash
Squeezing
Drying
Ironing
Check lab dip in light box/spectrophotometer by
comparing with standard
Keep reference and submit lab dip for approval
Receive approved lab dip
Deliver recipe of approved lab dip to dyeing floor

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LAB DYEING PROCEDURE FOR COTTON
WASHING OFF PROCEDURE
1. Cold wash is carried out after dropping the dye bath.
2. Then treated with 2g/l acetic acid for 2 min.
3. Then cold wash & soaping with 1 g/l soaping agent at 95°C/98°C for 15 min
(light shade) & 30 min (Dark shade).
4. Then wash with cold water, squeezing & drying.
LAB DYEING PROCESSFOR LEVAFIX CA/REMAZOL RR/REMAZOL
ULTRA RGB:
1. Add dye + auxiliaries + salt at room temp.
2. Add sodaash & set maximum gradient to reach up to 60°C.
3. At 60°C run 30 min or up to final shade.
4. Then bath drain.
DYEING CURVE:
60°C Run 30 min Run 60-75 min
{Salt+ Auxiliaries+ Dye (Soda ash)
Drain at room temperature}
0°C

42 | P a g e
LAB DYEING PROCESS FOR SUMIFIXEXF:
1. Add dye + Auxiliaries + Salt at 30°C & run 20 min.
2. Add salt at 30°C & run for 5 min.
3. Set gradient 1°/min up to 60° (for Turquise, yellow, & green temp. will be
80°C) & run 60 min (light shade) & 80 min (Deep shade).
80° C 75/ Run for dark Shade
30°C
{Dye+ Auxiliaries}
LAB DYEING PROCESS FOR ALL DYE:
Step by step method:
1. Add salt + Auxiliaries at 30°C & run for 20 min.
2. Add sodaash at 30°C & run for 5 min.
3. Set gradient 1°C up to 60°C.
4. At 60°C & run for 60 min or up to final shade.
1°C/min
{Dye
+
Soda
Auxiliarie
s
+
Salt}
For light shade
Salt 1°C Drain
Drain
5
/
Run 20
/
Run
30°C 20ʹ
run 5ʹ run Drain.

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ISOTHERM PROCESS 50°C/60°C:(REMAZOL RR/ REMAZOL RGB/
REMAZOL):
{salt + Auxiliaries} Dye dosing 30/ Alkali
(50°C/60°C) 45/– 60/
30/
100%cotton, bleached, non-mercerized; Liquor ratio– 1:10
Shade% <
0.1
0.1–<
0.5
0.5– <
1
1– <2 2–< 3 3–≤ 5 > 5
Salt g/l 20 20–25 25–40 40–50 50–60 60–80 80–
100
Soda ash g/l 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
Caustic Soda
50% ml/l
0.9 0.9–1 1–1.2 1.2–1.5 1.5–2 2–3 3
Progression 70% 70% 50% 50% 50% 50% 50%
Dosing time 60 60 60 60 60 60 45–60
Isotherm process 60°C (Levafix CA)
{Salt
+Auxiliaries} {Dye dosing} Alkali
30
60
10ʹ 10ʹ 45ʹ–60ʹ 30ʹ
10
/
run 10
/
run
ʹ

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Soda ash/Caustic soda:
Shade% < 0.1 0.1–0.5 0.5–1 1–2 2–3 3–5 > 5
Salt g/l 15 15-20 20-35 35-50 50–60 60–80 80
Sodag/l 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
Caustic 50%
ml/l
– 0.6-
0.75
0.75–
0.9
0.9–1.2 1.2–1.5 1.5–2 2
Progression% 70 70 50 50 50 50 30
Dosing time 60 60 60 60 60 60 45-60
Levafix CA 60°C:
Soda ash
Shade% < 0.1 0.1–0.5 0.5–1 1–2 2–3 3–5 > 5
Salt g/l 20 20–25 25–40 40–50 50–60 60–80 80–
100
Sodag/l 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
Progression% 70 70 50 50 50 50 30
Dosing time 60 60 60 60 60 60 45-60
Temp. Rise process 70°C/80°C: RemazolTurquise Blue G & Remazol
Briliant Green6B
Alkali
add
70°/80°C
10
ʹ
(up to final shade)
{Salt +Auxiliaries} {Dye stuff dos} 1. Alkali add
1°C/min

45 | P a g e
Drain
30°C ʹ ʹ ʹ
10 10 10
100% cotton bleached, non-mercerized, LR-1:10:
Shade% <0.1 0.1–0.5 0.5–1 1–2 2–3 3–5 >5
G. Salt g/l 20 20–25 25–40 40–50 50–60 60-80 80–100
Soda ash
g/l
3 3 3–5 5–8 8–10 10–12 12–15
1.Alkaliadd
(10/–30/)
2.Alkaliadd
(10/–30/)
Salt& Soda recommendation:(samplewt. 5 gm)
Shade% 0.001–0.01 0.1–<0.5 0.5–<1 1–<2 2–<5 5
Glabuers
Salt g/l
5 8 20 35 50 50
Glabuers
salt
solution
20%
(1:8)/(1:10)
1 cc 1.6 cc 4 cc 7cc 10cc 10cc
1.25 cc 2 cc 5 cc 8.7cc 12.5cc 12.5cc
Sodaash
g/l
10 12 15 20 20 20
Sodaash
10% Soln
1:8/1:10
4cc 4.8 cc 6 cc 8 cc 8 cc 8 cc
5 cc 6 cc 7.5 cc 10 cc 10 cc 10 cc
Salt& soda amountin case of Mercerized & Un mercerized Sample:
Shade Mercerized (g/l) Un mercerized (g/l)

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Light 5 3
Medium 20 10
Dark 20 10
Over Dark shade 50 50
Amountof soda ash in case of Mercerized & Un mercerized Sample::
Shade Mercerized (g/l) Un mercerized (g/l)
Light 8 10
Medium 10 15
Dark 18 20

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ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING FLOOR
Dyeing Manger
AssistantDyeing manger
Senior Production
Officer
Production officer
Asst. Production officer
Junior Production
Officer
Suppervisor
Machine Operator
Machine
Helper

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RESPONSIBILITYOF PRODUCTION OFFICER
o Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing. o Dyes & chemicals
requisition issue & check. o Program making, sample checking color
measurement. o Control the supervisor’s operators & helpers of
machines. o To give dye-line or the program slip according to daily
production plan, batch preparation & PH check. o To rectify the
finished fabric which rejected from quality control department o To
check daily production report. o To study dye & chemicals nature
delivery by the manufacture & applied them correctly to the
production to get best product
JOB DESCRIPTION:
Title: Production officer
Dept: Dyeing
Reportto: Senior production officer.
Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities &
control the quality productionwith related activities.
Title: Senior production officer
Dept: Dyeing.
Reportto: Dyeing manager.
Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities &
control the quality productionwith related activities.
DUTIES & RESPONSIBILITIES
 Overall supervision of dyeing, finishing production.
 Checks the different log books ofdifferent areas & report to management.
 Checks the sensitive parameters of different machine for smooth dyeing.
 Checks out the plan to controlthe bestoutput from supervisor & workers.
 To trained up & motive the subordinates how to improve the quality
production.
 Maintenance of machine & equipment. Any other works & when required by
the management.
 Control the supervisors, operator, asst. operator & helpers of dyeing
Machine.

50 | P a g e
DYEING MACHINE CAPACITY
Bulk Dyeing Machine Unit-1
Machine
Number
Capacityin Kg
Machine Number:
01
300
Machine Number:
02
600
Machine Number:
03
600
Machine Number:
04
1000
Machine Number:
05
1000
Machine Number:
06
1000
Machine Number:
07
200
Machine Number:
08
200
Machine Number:
09
1500
Machine Number:
10
1500
Machine Number:
11
900
Machine Number:
12
600
Machine Number:
13
800
Total Capacity= 10,200

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Sample Dyeing Machine Capacity Unit-1
Machine Number Brand Capacityin Kg
Machine Number: 01 ATYC 55
Machine Number: 02 ATYC 75
Machine Number: 03 FONGS 150
TotalCapacity= 455
Total capacity of Bulk dyeing & Sample dyeing machine= 10,655Kg
Bulk Dyeing Machine
Unit-2
Machine
Number
Capacityin Kg
Machine Number:
01
250
Machine Number:
02
300
Machine Number:
03
300
Machine Number:
04
450
Machine Number:
05
1000
Machine Number:
06
600
Machine Number:
07
200
Machine Number: 200

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08
Machine Number:
09
2000
TotalCapacity= 10,000
Sample Dyeing Machine Capacity
Unit-2
Machine
Number
Capacityin Kg
Machine Number:
01
30
Machine Number:
02
120
Machine Number:
03
120
Machine Number:
04
30
Bulk Dyeing Machine
Unit-3
Machine
Number
Capacityin Kg
Machine Number:
01
750
Machine Number:
02
750
Machine Number:
03
750
Machine Number:
04
500
Machine Number:
05
500

53 | P a g e
Machine Number:
13
1000
Machine Number:
14
1000
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONOF UNIT-1
MACHINE
No
Machine
Brand
Origin No. Of
Nozzle
Reel Speed
M/min
Total
Capacity
in Kg
1 ATYC Spain 1 140 300
4 ATYC Spain 2 170 9000
5 Fong’s China 4 180 1000
7 AKM Taiwan 1 120 200
8 AKM Taiwan 1 120 200
10 Fong’s China 6 180 1500
11 Thies Germany 3 120 480
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONOF UNIT-2
SL no Brand
name
Origin No. Of
Nozzle
ReelSpeed
M/min
Capacity(kg)
1 THIES Germany 1 120 150

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8 THIES i-
master
Germany 6 150 1600
9 Sclavos Greece 6 420 1500
MACHINE SPECIFICATION OF UNIT-3
MACHINE
No
Machine
Brand
Origin No. Of
Nozzle
Reel Speed Total
Capacity
RAW MATERIALS FOR DYEING
Raw materials are those, by using or processing which we get final product. In
textile there are different types of raw materials. Such as- Yarn is raw material
for fabric, dyes & chemicals are raw materials for dyed fabric. Dyed fabric raw
material for garments etc.

55 | P a g e
RAW MATERIALS USED IN THE DYEING SECTION ARE:
1. Grey fabrics
2. Dyes
3. Chemicals.
Grey fabrics
FOLLOWING TYPES OF GRAY FABRICS ARE DYED IN FAL:
 Single jersey
 Single jersey with Lycra
 Polo pique
 Waffle
 Single lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 Fleece
 Rib
 Rib with lycra
 1Χ1 rib
 2X2 rib
 Interlock etc
SOURCES OF YARN
Source Origin Source Origin
G.T.N India. PT INDORMA Indonesia.
Perfect India. SQUARE Bangladesh.
T.T India. SHOHAGPUR Bangladesh.
AROTI India. RASHOWA Bangladesh.
PAT SPIN India. WINSOM India.
SPOT KING Indonesia. MALWA India.
PT PASIFIC Indonesia. TARA Bangladesh.

56 | P a g e
DYE STUFF
It was noted by Otto.N.Witt in 1876 that color in organic compound is
associated with the presence of certain groups in the molecule. He designated
the group as that produce color as a chromophore & a molecule containing such
a group as chromogen. The most effective chromospheres are – Nitroso, Nitro,
Azo, Carbonyl etc.
Color substance should become a useful dye, the molecule should contain in
addition to chromphore, some auxochrome groups. The most effective
auxochromes are– Hydroxyl, Amino, Carboxyl, Sulphonic, group etc.
DYES USED IN FAL–
1. Reactive dye (ForCotton).
2. Acid dye (ForNylon).
3. Disperse dye (Forpolyester).
Properties of Reactive dye:
• Soluble in Water & not to be hydrolyzed.
• Capability of movement within the fiber structure.
• Make covalent bond with fiber.
• Dyeing carried out in alkaline condition.
• Fastness properties are generally good.
• Dyeing method is easy & easy applicable to cellulose as well as protein fiber.
• All kinds of shade are found.
Properties of Acid dye:
• Acid dyes are salt of sulphonic acid & carboxylic acid & their anions are
colored components
• Soluble in water & are applied in acid medium.
• It has affinity towards the protein fiber.
• Light fastness is good.
• It gives bright shades.
Properties of Disperse dye:
• It is little bit soluble in water.
• Fastness property is good.
• It has sublimation property.
DYES LIST
Sumifix Drimaren Remazol Levafix
S.S Yellow EXF D.VioletK2RLCDG R. Yellow-RR L. first RED CA

57 | P a g e
S.S Red EXF D. Red K-4BL R. Red-RR L. BR Yellow
CA
S.S Blue EXF D.T Blue CLB R. Blue-RR L. Blue CA
S.S Yellow 3RS D. Yellow CL-3GL R.G Yellow-RGB L. Amber CA
S.S Red 3 BS D. Yellow CL2R R. Ultramarine
RGB
L. Red CA
S.S Navy Blue
BS
D. Blue CL-BR R. Red-RGB L. Yellow
S.S Brill Blue R D. Blue CLR R. Blue-BB L. Scarlet
S.S Brill Yellow
4GL
D. Blue CL-2RL R. Briblue-R L. Rubine CA
S.S Yellow 3RF D. Orange K3R R. Turblue-G L. Orange CA
Ciba Sk Disperse Benzactive Terasil
C.Yellow F-
4G
Sk.Yellow
Brown S-
2RL
Dis K.B Blue Benzactive
Blue SLF
T. Red FBN
C.Yellow S-
3R
Sk Blue S-
3Rf
Dis K.B Red RB Benzactive
Red SLF
T.Rubine
2GFL
C.Red FN
3G
Sk Red
SERPD
Dis K.B Orange Benzactive
Yellow S-
Max
T. Blue
WBLS
C.Super
BlackG
Sk Rubine
S3GF
Dis K.B Navy
Blue
EXSF
Benzactive
Cosmos S-
Max
T. G
Yellow
W3R
Turquish Acid Dye Black
Sk T-Blue S-GL-200% SS Black EXf Reactive black B-1500%
Remazol Tur-Blue G Acid Black LDN Ultrazol Black B-5.

58 | P a g e
Dyes origin
Sumifix: Japan. Ciba: Switzerland.
Drimaren: Germany. SK: Korea
Remazol:Germany. Terasil:Switzerland
Levafix: Germany. Benzactive: Switzerland.
Terasil & Disperse dyes are mainly used for dyeing polyester. Acid dyes are
used to Nylon. Sumifix, Drimaren, Remazol, Levafix, Ciba, Sk all these dyes
are used to dyeing the Cellulose or Cellulose based fabric.
CHEMICAL & AUXILIARIES:
Chemicals & Auxiliaries Function
1. Sunmoral CK-2/ Pitch run L-2/
NDA.
Wetting agent & Detergent.
2. Neocrystal DMBF. Sequestering agent.
3. Invatex CS/ / Neocrystal 150F. Sequestering agent & wetting agent.
4. Albatex FFC. Antifoaming agent.
5. Pitch run L-100f. All remover it is mainly used for lycra
mixed fabric.
6. Neorate PH 150F/ Neorate PH 55F. Stabilizer used during peroxide
bleaching.
7. Caustic Soda/ SodaAsh. Give alkali media during reactive
dyeing & fixation. It also used as
saponification agent. Caustic Soda
reduces the amount of Soda ash in
same dyeing process where high
amount Sodaash is used.
8. Hydrogen peroxide. Bleaching agent.
9. Croaks NF/ Sodium Bisulphate. Peroxide killer, It is enzyme based
peroxide killer.
10. Acetic acid. Give Acetic media & mainly used as
neutralizer.
11. Bio touch C-35/ Bio touch C-30/
Invazyme CEL.
Enzyme.
12. Hydrose. Reducing agent.

59 | P a g e
13. Neocrystal-200 BF/ Cibacel DBC/
GSS/Drimagen E3R.
Leveling agent.
14. NicepoleD-1044/Lyocol-o-Powder/
Serabid MIP.
Anti creasing agent.
15. Serabid IPD/ Ladiquest/ Eganol PS Sequestering agent.
16. Glabuer salt/ Serabid IPF/ San Salt
LD4F
Electrolyte.
17. NaHCO3. Used where slightly alkali media is
required.
18. SodaAsh/ Meropen KP/ Sodium
Acetate
Give alkali media during reactive dye
fixation.
19. Lipotal PS 60-F/ Ladiquest. Multifunctional (wetting agent +
detergent + sequestering agent).
20. Neo fix-R-250F. Fixing agent.
21.
AlcamineCWS/ArristanHPC/Hydrop
erm SRHA.
Cationic Softeners.
22. Silicon Amzf/ Sunsofter. Softeners.
23. Sirrix 2UD. Multifunctional.
FLOW CHART FOR DYEING
BATCHING
SELECT MACHINE NO.
FABRIC LOADING
SELECT PRODUCTIONPROGRAMME
PRETREATMENT
SELECT RECIPE FOR DYEING

60 | P a g e
RECIPE CONFIRMED BY DM/PO
DYEING
POST TREATMENT
UNLOAD
DEMINERALIZATION PROCEDUREOR LOADING HOT(COTTON)
1. Wetting agent (Sun moral CK–2) + Sequestering agent (Sarris 2UD) {Inject }.
2. Temperature raises up to 50°C & run the process for30 min.
3. Then drain the liquor.
SCOURING & BLEACHING (COTTON)
1. Inject {Wetting agent (sun moral Ck-2)+ Sequestering agent (Neocrystal 150F)+
Stabilizer (Neorate PH–150F)+Anti-creasing agent (NicepoleD-1044)+ Anti–
foaming agent (Albatex FFC)}
2. Temperature raises up to 60°C & run for 5 min.
3. Temperature raises up to 70°C with Caustic soda (10 min Linear) dosing & run
for 5 min.
4. Then H2O2 inject at 70°C. & PH =10-11
6. Drop the temperature up to 80°C for sample check.
7. Drain the liquor.
8. Fill Machine with water & inject the peroxide killer (Croaks NF)
9. Temperature raises up to 80°C & run for 10 min. It will remove the un used
peroxide from the fabric.
11. Then cold wash is given (5/-10/).
BIO SCOURING (VISCOSE)
1. Inject {Wetting agent (sunmoral Ck-2)+ Sequestering agent (Neocrystal 150F)+
Anticreasing agent (NicepoleD-1044)+ Anti–foaming agent (Albatex FFC)}
2. Temperature raises up to 70°C & Caustic Soda(5 min linear) dosing.
4. Drop the temperature up to 80°C for sample check.
5. Then drain the liquor.
6. Cold wash is given for (5/-10/).

61 | P a g e
ENZYME WASH(COTTON)
1. Acetic acid inject at 35°C.
2. Temperature raises up to 62°C & keeping PH =4.5–5.
3. Enzyme (Bio touch C-35) is given in linear dosing process.
4. Run at 55°C for 60 min.
5. After that temperature raises up to 80°C & run for 10 min.
7. Cold wash is given for (5/-10/).
WASHING PROCEDURE
1. After B.D the fabric is washed with cold water.
2. Then it is neutralized by acetic acid.
3. After doing this fabric is soap washed at 80°C for 10/– 20/.
SOFTENER APPLICATION
1. After washing softener is applied at 40°C for 20 min in acidic medium.
2. Softener dosing is done for 8 min.
3. After it the fabric is washed with cold water.
STRIPPING PROCEDURE
1. Salt, caustic inject & temperature raise up to 95°C & run for 20 min.
2. Drain & again caustic inject, hydrous is given by dosing process & temperature
raise up to 95°C for 40 min.
3. Then drain, hot wash at 80°C & then cold wash.
PROCESSCURVEFOR SUMIFIX DYES(CRITICAL+ SUPER
CRITICAL)

62 | P a g e
Process:–
1. Inject Leveling agent, Anti-creasing agent, and Sequestering agent.
2. Check PH & Hardness level.
3. Color dosing linear –30 min.
4. Salt dosing 8 min 10%, 30%, 60% progressive.
6. Sodadosing 1g/l – 30 min (linear).
7. Rest Sodadosing –60 min (70% progressive).
PROCESSCURVEFOR SUMIFIX (NORMALCOLOR)

63 | P a g e
Process:–
1. Inject leveling, anti-creasing & sequestering agents.
2. Salt dosing.
3. Check PH & Hardness.
4. Color Dosing -30/ (Linear).
5. Sodadosing -40 min 70% progressive
PROCESS CURVE FOR (REMAZOL + LEVAFIX DYES):–
PROCESS:
1. Inject leveling, anti-creasing & sequestering agents.
2. Salt is injected.
3. Check pH & Hardness.
4. Color Dosing Linear.
5. Sodadosing 70% progressive 40 min.
PROCESS CURVE FOR (ALL GREEN + TURQUOISE COLOR)

64 | P a g e
PROCESS:
1. Inject leveling, anti-creasing, sequestering agent.
3. Color dosing – (30 min) Linear.
4. Salt dosing – (8 min), 10%, 30%, 60% progressive.
5. Check PH & Hardness.
6. Soda dosing 1 g/l- (30min) linear & temperature gradient set 10C/min until 600C
is reached.
7. Rest soda dosing – (60 min) 70% progressive temperature gradient set 10C/min
until 800C is reached & then run the bath until the final shade has come.

65 | P a g e
PROCESS CURVE FOR WHITE
Process:-
1. Leveling agent, Wetting agent, Sequestering agent, Anti- foaming agent is
injected.
2. Caustic sodadosing – (5 min) Linear.
3. Peroxide dosing -5 min.
4. OBA dosing -(20 min).
5. Then raised the temperature up to 950C run for 60/ then drop the temperature at
750C for sample cutting if matched un load the fabric.

66 | P a g e
PROCESS CURVE FOR BLACK:
PROCESS:
1. Inject leveling agent, anti-creasing agent, sequestering agents anti foaming agent
etc.
2. Salt is injected.
3. Color dosing -25 min (linear).
4. Sodadosing–20 min (70% progressive).
5. Caustic sodadosing -20 min (70% progressive).

67 | P a g e
PROCESS CURVE FOR POLYESTER:
Polyester dyeing is done with disperse dye at 1300C in acid medium.
1. At first fabric is hot washed at 800C with water.
2. Then dye, dispersing agent, acid is added & temp. Raise 1300C .At this temp.
Dyeing is done up to final shade.
DYEING PROCESS FOR POLYESTER & COTTON BLEND:
In case of blend dyeing at first polyester part is dyed with dispersedye &
then cottonpart is dyed with reactive dyes. Dyeing of blended fabric “Single
bath two stage of dyeing” method is followed.
THE FACTORS TO CONCENTRATE DURING DYEING
The operatorshould change the
filter- After Enzyme wash
 After Drain dyeing Bath
 After Rinsing Bath
DYEING PARAMETER CONTROL CHART
 Water level before fabric loading(Lit)
 Loading Time(min)
 Water level after fabric loading(after running 05 min)
 Dosing time of caustic
 Run time Dosing time of per-oxide
 Total time need to raise temp.of 105:
 Gradiant (Degree/min)
 Total run time(min)
 Total time need to cooling at 80c
 Gradiant (Degree/min)
 Total MIR /Rinsing time to 50c
 Total run time after acid dosing
 Check PH
 Total runtime after peroxide killer dosing

68 | P a g e
 Check residual per-oxide(ppm)
 CheckPHbeforeenzymedosing Total run time during enzyme
DYEING
 Water level (Lit)
 Check PH before color/salt dosing
 Total time for color dosing
 Total run time
 Total time for salt dosing
 Total run time
 Check PH after salt dosing
 Total time for sodadosing
 Check PH after sodadosing(AfterrunningtheMachine05min)
 Total time need to B/D
 Drain the Machine
 Total time for MIR/ Rinsing
 Total time for acid
 Check PH and TDS(ppm)
 Temp for soaping
 Soaping time
 2ndsoapingtemp
 Soapingtime
 Drain the Machine Total MIR/Rinsing time
COMMON DYEING FAULTS WITH THEIR REMEDIES
UNEVEN DYEING
Causes:
 Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
 Improper color dosing.
 Using dyes of high fixation property.

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 Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Lack of control on dyeing Machine
Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment.
 By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers. Proper dosing of
dyes and chemicals.
 Propercontrolling of dyeing Machine

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BATCH TO BATCH SHADE VARIATION
Causes:
 Fluctuation of Temperature.
 Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
 Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
 Dyes lot variation.
 Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
 Improper pretreatment.

Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.
 Maintain the same liquor ratio.
 Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
 Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of
the Shade
 The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water
should check daily.
Patchy dyeing effect
Causes:
 Entanglement of fabric.
 Faulty injection of alkali.
 Improper addition of color.
 Due to hardness of water.
 Due to improper salt addition.
 Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.

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 Uneven heat in the machine, etc
Remedies:
 By ensuring proper pretreatment.
 Properdosing of dyes and chemicals.
 Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor. Proper salt addition. Roll
to Roll variation or Meterto Meter variation:
Causes:
 Poormigration property of dyes.
 Improper dyes solubility.
 Hardness of water.
 Faulty Machine speed, etc
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.
 ProperMachine speed.
 Use of soft water
Crease mark:
Causes:
 Pooropening of the fabric rope
 Shockcooling of synthetic material
 If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
 Due to high speed Machine running
Remedies:
 Maintaining properreel sped & pump speed.

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 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Reducing the Machine load
 Higher liquor ratio
Dye spot:
Causes:
 Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
 Improper Dissolving of caustic sodaparticle in bath.
Remedies:
 By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
 By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh
strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed
Wrinkle mark
Causes:
 Pooropening of the fabric rope
 Shockcooling of synthetic material
 High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Higher liquor ratio
SoftenerMark:
Causes:
 Improper mixing of the Softener.
 Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
 Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:

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 ProperMixing of the softener before addition.
 Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener

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FINISHING
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of
processes to which all bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are
subjected before they are put on the market. In fact, finishing includes the
final treatment of every kind of fabric made from every kind of fiber
Objective of finishing:
 Improving the appearance —Luster, whiteness, etc
 Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its
softness , suppleness , fullness, etc.
 Wearing qualities, none —soiling, anticrease, antishrink, comfort, etc.
 Special properties required for particular uses — water — proofing, flame
proofing, etc.
 Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
 Increasing the weight of the cloth.
Types of finishing:
1) Chemical finishing:
a) Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.
b) Application of the handle modifying products / additives. 2)
Mechanical finishing:
• Mechanical treatment with machines
Finishing effects:
• Easy - care
• Crease recovery.
• Dimensional stability.
• Good abrasion resistance.
• Improved tear strength.

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• Good sew ability
• Soft or stiff handle.
• Shine or luster
The finishing method can be classifiedaccording to the specialeffects that
they produce on the fabric. These effects include:
a. Stabilizing effects. (Stentering, Mercerizing, etc).
b. Textural effects. (Calendaring, Embossing).
c. Functional effects. (Water repellent finish, Soil release finish etc).
Organogramof Finishing Section:
On line System Off line system Jr. Supervisor
Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor Quality Controller
/ Jr. Supervisor / Jr. Supervisor
Asst. Quality Controller
Quality Controller Quality Controller
Executive Director (E.D)
Manager
Sr. Principle officer (P.O)
Finished Fabric Finished Collar / Cuff
Sr. Supervisor / Supervisor /

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Asst. Quality Controller Asst. Quality Controller
FLOW CHART OF FINISHING SECTION
Finishing Section
Fabric physical & chemical test
Finish fabric store
Finish fabric delivery.
Open fabric Tube fabric
Slitting machine Dewatering machine
Stentering Drying Machine
Compacting
machine
Tube compacting
machine
Final
Inspection
Final
Inspection

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FLOW CHART FOR PEACH FINISH/BRUSH:
Slitting
↓
Stenter
↓
Sueding/Raising
↓
Stenter
↓
Compacting
FOR LYCRA
Slitting
↓
Heat Setting
↓
Sewing
↓
Drying
↓
Slitting
↓
Stenter
↓
Compacting

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SLITTING MACHINE
Objects:
a. To get open width fabric from tube form.
b. To extract a level of water from the wet fabric by squeezing roller.
c. To apply softener to get softness of fabric.

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MAIN COMPONENTS
1. De-twister 2. Mechanical stretcher. 3. Fabric cutter. 4. Guide roller.
5. Tension roller 6. Dust remover. 7. Squeezer.
CUTTING SPEED
For fabric cutting there remain a cutter & the cutting speed depends on type of
fabric ie. (s/J or D/J). In caseof S/j the speed is less than D/J.
TYPICAL SPEED
Fabric type R.P.M
S/J 60-65
D/J 80
To increase the productionthe speed is always remain in 80.
SOFTENER
APPLICATION Recipes:
C.W.S 20 Kg
Silicon 1 Kg
Acetic acid 200 cc.
Water 300L
Temp. 300 C
PH 5.5-6
Note: - Softener should be dissolved in 900C with 100L water then add remaining
water & apply for softness.
PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT:
Pressures in squeezing roller always remain between 4-4.5 bar.
Note: - In special case where the shade need to be light then pressure must be
increased according to the direction of upper level.
PRECAUTION:
a. Cutter cut the fabric according to the needle drop mark, so the operator must be
aware about it.

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b. There remain no folding in the selvedge when the fabric through the squeezing
roller.
STENTER MACHINE
Object:
a. To heat set lycra fabric.
b. To dry open width dyed fabric.
c. To maintain dia , GSM & bowing problem.
d. To apply chemicals.
MAIN COMPONENTS:
a. Guide roller , b. Tension roller, c. Over feed roller, d. Under feed roller, d.
Dancing roller.
e. Padder, f. Steam applier, g. Selvedge cutter, h. Gumming wheel, i.
Heating chamber, j. Blowers, k. Air joke, l. Sensor.
HEAT SETTING
Due to elasticity of lycra it can create problem in the long run. So by applying
heat elastic property is reduced a bit & plastic property is brought. This
process is known as heat setting. This process is also carried out for polyester.
TYPICAL TEMPERATURE:
For low gsm fabric : 1200C –1250C.

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For High gsm fabric : 1300C –1350C.
For Lycra contained : 1850C – 2000C.
For Polyester : 2000C – 2100C.
For PC fabric : 1900C – 2000C.
CONTROLOF SHRINKAGE, DIA, GSM OF FABRIC:
According to the type of fabric dia, is set by increasing the existing fabric diameter.
Thus everything is controlled by depending upon the dia setting & temp setting.
FUNCTION OF SOME MAIN COMPONENTS:
1. Mahole arrangement:– If coarse line deviates from original position then by the
use of this we can release from this problem.
2. Chain: – It carries the fabric to the delivery zone through the chamber.
3. Blower: – The blowers protest the steam to move backwards when additional
steam is applied to the fabric.
4. Net: – Net collect dust from fabric when it passed through the chamber.
5. Gumming wheel:– To avoid curliness of selvedge, this wheel is used to apply
gum & cutter then cut this position.
STANDARD OPERATING PARAMETER FOR DIFFERENTFABRIC IN
STENTER:
Fabric Type GSM Dia Temperat
ure
Over
Feed
Padder
Pressue
Speed
(rpm)
Blower
rpm
Single jersey 115-150 2”+ 110-140 40-45% 2 bar 30-35 1100-
1300
Single jersey 160-220 2”+ 120-170 40-45% 2.5 bar 25-30 1200-
1400
Lycra Single
jersey
160-200 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 25-30 1200-
1400
Lycra Single
jersey
200-250 4”+ 140-160 50% 2 bar 24-28 1200-
1400
Pique 160-200 3”+ 130-160 40-45% 1.5-2bar 25-30 1200-
1400

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Lycra Pique 190-220 4”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-
1400
Fleece/Terry 260-300 4”+ 140-170 40-45% 2 bar 20-25 1300-
1400
1x1 Rib 160-220 2”+ 130-160 45% 2 bar 24-28 1300-
1400
2x2 Rib 190-220 2”+ 140-160 45% 2 bar 20-25 1200-
1400
Interlock 190-220 3”+ 130-160 50% 2 bar 20-25 1200-
1400
*S/J fabric feed at 3-5 degree angle.
*Others fabric feed, straight.
Precaution:
1. Fabric should be set in such a way that it could not be displaced.
2. Heat of different department should be gradually maintained.
3. Excess over feed should not provide to all types of fabric.
OPEN COMPACTOR
Object:
• To control Gsm,
• Diameter &
• Shrinkage of the fabric.

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MAIN COMPONENTS:
1. Scroll roller. 2. Metal detector. 3. Guide roller. 4. Tension roller.
5. Steam applier. 6. Feed roller. 7. Tension roller. 8. Take up roller. Etc.
OPERATING PARAMETERS:
1. Set the temperature between 1200C – 1300C for white & 1500C – 1600C for color
fabric.
Temp. Increase with GSM & moisture content.
2. Over feed % is 10%–20% or more depends upon the finished G.S.M.
3. Speed depends on the finished gsm. They are vice versa.
SQUEEZER
Object:
1. To extract excess amount of water by squeezing.
2. To apply softener to the fabric.
MAIN COMPONENTS:
1. De-twister, 2. Guide roller. 3. Immersion roller.
4. Tension roller. 5. Squeezing roller. 6. Shape.
7. Softener tray. 8. Ring. 9. Over feed plate.
Rollerspeed:–
For single jersey: (60–70) m/min.
For double jersey: (50–55) m/min.

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Squeezing pressure:–
Pressure always remains in first squeezing roller 4 bar & in second roller is 4.5 bar.
OVERFEED:
When there need to increase the width of fabric then feed roller feed more fabric
to the next roller. In this way dimensional stability is gained.
PRECAUTION:
1. Chemicals should be changed every time when the roll is changed.
2. Diameter should be maintained.
3. Over feed section should be cleaned. Etc
DRYER
Objects:
1. To dry the fabric.
2. To make the fabric wrinkle free.
Main Components:
1. Tension roller, 2. Feed roller, 3. Conveyor. 4. Net. 5. Blower.
6. Scroll roller.

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Temperature & speed:
Temperature depends on the type of fabric. For S/j & D/J it remains 1350C –1600C
& 1400C– 1700C respectively. Speed for S/j & D/J 8-12 m/ min & 5-9.5 m /min
respectively.
Precaution:
1. Fabric should not contain any wrinkle when it is feed to the conveyor.
2. Temperature should be controlled according to the type of fabric.
TUBE COMPACTOR
Object:
1. To control gsm, dia, & shrinkage of the fabric.
Main components:
1. Feed roller. 2. Shape. 3. Guide roller. 4. Tension roller.
5. Steam applier. 6. Feed roller. 7. Conveyor. 8. Take up roller.
9. Compacting shoe. Etc.
Shape: It is used to maintain the fabric diameter. There are various types of
shape:-

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Diameter Spreadertype
14–17 A
16–19 A
17–20 A
19–25 B
22.25–28.25 B
26–36.75 C
34.75–47 D
45–57 E
Compacting roller
pressure:Roller pressure
far– 20 psi
Roller pressure near– 25 psi
Shoe pressure – 30 psi
Temperature:
Compacting shoe ≥ 700C.
Feed roller ≥ 900C.
Retard roller ≥ 900C.
Precaution:
1. Compacting roller pressure should be adjusted with far & near roller.
2. Care should be taken that over or loss compaction does not occur.
3. Care should be taken about gsm, temperature, dia.
4. Steam should be applied according to the required softness of the finished
product.
STANDARD OPERATING PARAMETER FOR DIFFERENTFABRIC IN
OPEN
COMPACTOR
Fabric
type
Color Speed Over
Feed
Temperature Blanket
Pressure
Teflon
Pressure

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Single
jersey
White
Color
15-
18
15-18
25-
30
25-30
90-110
110-120
1.5-
2bar
36psi
Pique
(s/j,d/j)
White
Color
15-
18
15-18
30-
35
30-35
100
110-120
1.5-
2bar
36psi
Lycra s/j White
Color
12-
16
12-16
Full
over
feed
100-110
100-120
1.5-
2bar
36psi
1x1 Rib White
Color
15-20
15-20
20-
30
20-30
100
110-120
1.5-
2bar
36psi
2x2 Rib White
Color
12-15
12-15
25-30
2530
100
110-120
1.5-
2bar
36psi
Interlock White
Color
12-16
12-16
Full
over
feed
100
110-120
1.5-
2bar
36psi

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LABORATORY MACHINERIES WITH ITS SPECIFICATION
1. Tearing Strength Tester:
 Brand Name :Elmatear
 Origin : U.K
2. Bursting Strength Tester:
 Brand Name : TruBurst
 Origin : U.K
4. Pilling ResistantTester:
 Brand Name : Impulse
 Origin : U.K
5. ICI Pilling ResistantTester:
 Brand Name : SDL ATLAS
 Origin : U.S.A
6. Crockmaster:
 Brand Name : SDL
 Origin : U.S.A
7. Yarn evenness tester:
 Brand name: SDL ATLAS
 Origin : U.S.A
8. Wrap reel Yarn Count Tester:
 Brand name: SDL ATLAS
 Origin : U.S.A
9. Weight Cutting Machine (GSM):
 Brand name: Samsung
 Origin : South Korea


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10. Thermograph:
 Brand name: SK Sato
 Origin : U.S.A
TEST NAME:COLORFASTNESSTO WASHING, DRY CLEANING.
Name of the Machine: Rota Wash
 Origin : U.K
 Test Method :ISO105-C06, ISO105-D02
TEST NAME:DIMENSIONALSTABILITY, SPIRALITY, AND
APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING.
Name of the Machine: Eltrolux wascator.
 Origin : U.K
 Test Method : ISO 6330, ISO 26330
TEST NAME:SHRINKAGE
TEST. Name of the
Machine:Eltrolux
 Origin : U.K
TestName:Color Fastnessto WashTest.
Name of the Machine: Gyrowash
 Origin : U.K
 Test Method : ISO 105-C06

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TEST PERFORMED IN QUALITY LAB
1. Yarn count test.
2. Evenness test of yarn.
3. Fabric GSM tests.
4. TPI test.
5. Calculation of shrinkage & Twist % of garments.
6. Pilling test of fabric.
7. PH test
8. Color fastness to Rubbing.
9. Color fastness to Light.
10. Color fastness to Washing.
11. Color fastness to perspiration.
12. Formaldehyde test ISO 14184–1 JISA JISB
13. Test for phenolic yellowing ISO 105 X 18.
YARN COUNT TEST
Yarn count is tested by the wrap reel & weight balance. At first yarn is
wrapped on the wrap reel. For 110 revolutions, 110 meters wrapped in wrap
reel. Then yarn is weighted by balance in gm, & count is measured in direct
system (Tex). After this count is converted in to indirect system (Ne).
Conversion formula: Ne=
EVENNESS TEST OF YARN
Evenness is tested by the Evenness tester. Yarn is wound on evenness tester board
& then evenness is measured by the evenness testing scale.
Evenness is graded by A, B, C, & D.
A indicates even
B indicates moderate C indicates average D
indicates uneven.
No of scale:-
Different scales for different count of yarn.
1. Scale for count ranges from (12+ to 24 Ne or 50 to 25+ Tex).
2. Scale for count ranges from (24+ to 36 Ne or 25 to 16+ Tex).

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3. Scale for count ranges from (36+to 50 Ne or 16 to 12+ Tex). Note:
Sometimes evenness may be graded as A+, B–.
FABRIC G.S.M TESTS
At first fabric is cut by G.S.M cutter. Weight is measured by weight balance. Then
G.S.Mis measured by following procedure.
Area = 2
Here AB = Diameter (say 11.3 cm)
r = Radius & weight =
2.1 gm
Now Area = π×(5.65 cm)² =100 cm²
So, G.S.M = (weight× 100) = 210 gm
TPI TEST
TPI means the no. of twist per unit length of yarn. It is measured by TPI
tester. At first sample of specific yarn is placed between jaw & clamp &
distance between them is 10 inch. Twist is counted by de-twisting & re-
twisting process. Then TPI is measured by dividing the total no. of twist by
10.
CALCULATION OF SHRINKAGE %
After washing fabric has a natural tendency to shrink. It is ratio of the change in
dimension of the garments after wash & before wash. It is expressed in
percentage.
Shrinkage% =
Fabric or garments is pointed with the measurement 30cm × 30 cm. Then it is
washed with the persil detergent 10gm/l in washing Machine. Washing time
& temperature are given below:

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Temperature Time
300C 28 min
400C 45 min
600C 55min
Then drying is done either Tumbling or Line drying or flat drying depends on the
buyer requirement.
In case of tumble dry – 600C × 50/
In case of flat dry – Normal temperature ×
(7-8hr) In case of line dry– Normal
temperature × (7-8 hr).
CALCULATION OF TWIST% OF GARMENTS
After washing due to any problem related to yarn, seam line may deviate from its
position in the garments. This problem is known as twisting.
Twisting is defined as the ratio of the deviation of the seam line to its original
length or width. It is expressed as–
Twist % =
Where
A= Measurement of seam line deviation.
B= Exact measurement of length or width before washing.
Some buyer recommends body length measurement.
B= Exact measurement of length before washing.
Some buyer recommends bottom length measurement
then– B= Exact measurement of width before
washing.
Acceptable limit of twist % depends on buyer.
PH
TEST
First distilled water is taken & PH is controlled between 5.5–7.5. From this
controlled water 50 ml water is taken & 2 gm of small piece of fabric is
immersed in water for 12 hr. Then PH is checked again by PH meter.
If it is found that PH is between 5.5–7.5 then it is accepted but if it is greater
than7.5 then it is rejected.

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PILLING TEST OF FABRIC
Pilling test is done by ICI Pillbox. It gives an idea about the hairiness.
TEST PROCEDURE
At first fabric is cut according to template (12.5 ×12.5). Now the sample is
sewn around a rubber tube & set in the pilling tester. The main mechanism is
that when the box rotates then friction takes place between the rubber tube &
inside Machine surface. After a number of rotations the hairiness is compared
with pill scope.
Number of revolution depends on buyer. Some buyer demands 14400 rev.
which takes time 4hr & some buyer demands 7200 rev. which takes time 2 hr.
Some demands 10800 rev. which takes time 3 hr. Grade of pill scope:– 1–>
very bad. 2–> Bad 3–> Average.
4–> Good.
5–> Excellent.
TESTING PROCEDUREOF FORMALDEHYDE (ISO14184):–
For
Baby = 20 ppm
Adult = 75 ppm
COLOR FASTNESS TO RUBBING
This test is performed by using the crockmeter.
Sample collect (10cm× ).5 cm
Water extraction (1200 PSI × 400
C).
3 ml extraction & 3 ml Narshingagent
(400
C 30/
R).Cooling
Spectrophotometer (10ml sample).
If yellow color turn then formaldehyde
present in the fabric or garments.

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TEST PROCEDURE
A sample of 15cm × 8 cm is placed on the base of crock meter. Then rubbing
cloth of 5cm × 5 cm is clamped under the finger of the crock meter. Then 10
rubbing action is performed between 13.5 cm × 2.5 cm area are tested sample
by moving the handle of crockmeter within the 10 sec.
The test is performed in two ways. Either in dry or wet rubbing. It is based on the
buyer recommendation.
Then staining & color change is measured & rating is given by comparing with
grey scale.
Grey scale rating Fastness
5 Excellent
4 Good
3 Average
2 Bad
1 Very bad.
COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING
Color fastness to washing can be performed either in washcator Machine or
infrared dry Machine. In case of garments washcator is used in case of fabric
& accessories infrared dryer is used.
PROCEDUREFOR WASHCATOR
A sample of multi fiber of 10cm × 4 cm is taken & sewn to each garment.
Then 10 gm Persil detergent is taken for each wash. The Machine is run for
specific time & temp & it is depends opn the buyer recommendation. Typical
temp. are 300C, 400C, 500C, 600C. Then staining & color change is count &
rating is given by comparing with grey scale.
PROCEDUREFOR INFRARED DRYER
A sample of multi fiber of 10cm × 4 cm is taken & sewn with multi-fiber
same measurement Then washing solution is prepared with following recipe:-
Water – 1 liter.
Sodium perborate– 1 gm/l
ECE (detergent)- 4 gm/l

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In a beaker solution is taken according to the liquor ratio 1:10 & the sample is
immersed in it. Then the beaker is set in the beaker holder in Machine & run
for 30 min at 600C. Then the fabric is dried & staining & color change is
measured & rating is given by comparing with grey scale.
COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION
For this test artificial perspiration solution is prepared. It may be acidic or alkaline.
Typical recipes are–
Components Acidic Alkaline
1. L histamine mono hydrochloride monohydrate 0.5 gm 0.5 gm
2. Di-sodium Hydrogen orthophosphate 2.5 gm
3. Sodium Hydrogen orthophosphate 2.2 gm.
4. Sodium chloride 5 gm 5 gm
5. Water 1 L 1 L
6. PH 5.5 8
In a beaker sufficient amount of solution is taken. Then a sample (10 cm × 4
cm) is immersed in to the solution for 30 min. Then the sample is taken out &
place between two glass plates. Then 5 kg weight is placed over it & kept in
the incubator at 37± 20C for 4 hr. Then the sample is taken out & the result is
measured by comparing with the grey scale.

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GARMENTS CUTTING
SECTION

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M/C Specification:
Auto Spreader (2):
M/C No.: 01
Brand Name: Gerber Spreader
Country: Germany
Year of Manufacturing:
2006
M/C No.: 02
Brand Name: Gerber Spreader
Country: Germany
Year of Manufacturing: 2006
Hand Cutter :
Brand Name: Mack
Country: Japan
Speed: 3000/3600
Volt: 220
Frequency: 50/60 Hz
Phase:1
Blade: Straight bar blade
Auto Cutter (1):
Brand Name: Gerber
Country: Germany

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Cutting department receives Tech Pack from merchandiser and PP sheet of a
style from IE.
Cutting department checks whether sample, master pattern and fabrics are
ready or not.
If ready cutting department collects sample, marker and fabric (for size set)
from the sample section, CAD section and fabric store.
Cutting department gives a lay for size set sample, cut, sew in the size set line,
print, wash, embroidery all are done and measurement are taken in all the
steps.
If it is found that an adjustment is required in the master pattern, then cutting
manager, buyer QC and pattern master check and make necessary correction
as per grading and informs pattern and CAD section.
Then cutting department collects fabrics for bulk production from store and
checks whether the GSM of every roll is fine or not and check the width of
fabric for that lot.
If fabric GSM is ok, cutting department sends information to CAD section
containing in which width and ratio of fabric they are going to cut that
particular cutting.
CAD prepares marker and If in that style self-fabric for
neck is

101 | P a g e
sends it to cutting section required, cutting in charge informs the
machine operator to keep particular
amount of fabric each roll.
Spreading starts and completed.
Marker is placed on the lay and then costape is attached.
Cutting starts and completed.
Cutting parts are transferred A Spread containing number of
layer
to stickering table. That cutting, how many parts in a
garments go to the
stickering section.
Stickers are made ready. Bundle cards are made
ready.
Stikering starts and completed and Bundle cards come to bundle
area.
sticker attached parts are send to
bundling area.
Bundling starts and completed.

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Rejection cutting starts and completed.
If other operations are needed such as Print,
Embroidery, cutting dept. sends the cut panels Solid Parts.
to the store and later collects them from the
store and checks whether there is any alter or not.
Print and Embroidery panels are checked and
if some alter and rejects are found the Store in the cutting
bundle cards are re-written making input rack.
necessary adjustments.

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PRINTING SECTION

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General Overview
Area Covered= 2 flo0r
Manpower=450
Per table=12-13
Auto screen m/c=5
Heat press m/c= above 8
Curing m/c=2-3
Capacityof Printing= 100,000 pcs per day
Machine Type Machine information NO. of M/C
Screen shot Auto screen shot 4
Manual screen shot
Drying Auto dryer 4
Hand dryer 100
Expose shot Auto expose shot 1
Manual expose shot 3
Heat press Depends on pressure &
temp. range
8
Curing Depends on temp. & belt
speed
3
Printing System
Hand screen printing
Sereen Printing Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing

105 | P a g e
TYPES OF PRINTING:
 Rubber printing
 Foil printing
 Pigment printing
 Metallic printing
 Flock printing
 Photo printing
 Burnout printing
 Glitter Printing
 Silicon printing
 High density printing
 Volcanic pinting
 Discharge print
 Puff print
 Plastisol print
 Crack print
 Gel print
 Sticker/transfer print
 Reflective
Machine Brand: Alpha 8 by M&R companies.

106 | P a g e
Machine Brand: Schenk-Spider.
FLOW CHART OF PRINTING SECTION
Artwork from merchandiser
↓
Design input
↓
Design development
↓
Positive/film
↓
Print taken
↓
Requisition by merchandiser
↓
Panel(cutting fabric parts)
↓
Expose(frame adjusted)
↓
Fila and frame adjusted
↓
Water spray
↓
Panel send to buyer
↓
Buyer approval
↓
Sale sample
↓

107 | P a g e
Counter sample
↓
P P production
↓
Accessories booking
↓
Requisition by merchandiser for fabric
↓
Fabric received and store
↓
Count the fabric
↓
Inspection the fabric
↓
Fabric adjusted
↓
Bulk production start
↓
Hydro extractor from dryer
↓
Inspection
↓
Finishing
↓
Delivery
DESIGN
Artwork receive from development
↓
Detail design perform & analyze by Adove photoshop & illustrate
↓
Prepare individual film for different color by work express software
↓
Send to expose room

108 | P a g e
SCREEN PREPARATION:
Mesh fabric tight with frame
Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min
in air.
Placed design paper under the mesh.
Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min.
Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying.
SEQUENCE OF PRINTING
Count garment parts
Screen preparation
Printing paste preparation
Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked
portion
Printing the garment part by using screen
Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow
Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 -
1800 c
Inspection is done in qualify control department

109 | P a g e
PROCESS FOR FOIL PRINTING
Add adhesive on the require design by screen
Place the fabric part on to the Pressing M/C
Pressing the upper part of the M/C at 100PSi, Temp-1500 For-6 Sec
EXPOSE ROOM
Mesh fabric NO. Print Type
10,12 Glitter
14 Afsan, Discharge pigment
16,20 Rubber,Puff, High density, Foil, Gel,
Plastisol,
Reflective, Crack
PRINT WISE CURING
Print type Temperature Belt speed
m/min
Duration(sec)
Rubber 150-160 4-6 30-45
Pigment 140-150 4-6 30-45
Plastisol 180-200 4-5 36-45
Discharge 180-200 3.5-4 45-52
Puff 170-180 3.5-4 45-52
Glitter 150-160 4-6 30-45
Reflective 160-170 4-6 30-45
High density 180-200 3.5-4 45-52
Gel 170-180 4-5 36-45
Afsan 150-160 4-6 30-45

110 | P a g e
COMMON PRINT DEFECTS
 Measuring fault
 Print missing
 Wrong color
 Hand feel not correct
 Color migration problem
 Not properly attach
 Dirty marks
 Uneven print
 Air bubble
 Air hole
 Shade variation
MAJOR CAUSES OF PRINT DEFECTS
1. Screen & print bodyare not in same axis
2. Irregular wash of screen frame
3. Wrong color recipe
4. Insufficient drying of previous color
5. Inaccurate composition of fixture
6. Improper heat & pressure
7. Dirty environment
AUTO SCREEN SHOT
1. Faster production
2. High color combination
3. Immediate drying between two consequetive print
Not suitable for-
Large & complete bodyprint
High density, flock & multiple color, discharge print.
MANUAL SCREEN SHOT
1. Generally all types of print are performed

111 | P a g e
2. More time consuming
3. Drying performed by hand or auto dryer
HEAT PRESS Machine
1. GENERALLY USED FOR Foil & Sticker print
2. Matt & glossy appearance also provide by this technique
3. Print performed at a certain temp. & pressure
DRYING
1. Hand drying
2. Auto drying
It is performed to dry previous color temporally
Color migration occurred due to improper drying of previous color
CURING
Curing is the ultimate drying of print
Propercuring is the vital issue for a quality print
Curing also liable for fabric shade change due to high temp.

Textile Internship Report (Part-2)

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