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© Daffodil International University
Faculty of Engineering
Department of Textile Engineering
Report On
Industrial Attachment
At
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.
Course Title: Industrial Attachment
Course Code: TE-431
Submitted By
Abu Hasnat Md. Shakik Prodhan
ID: 132-23-3597
Supervised By
Mohammad Abdul Baset
Senior Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
Daffodil International University
This Report Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Bachelor of Science
in Textile Engineering
Advance in Apparel Manufacturing Technology
Duration Time: 10th January 2017 to 10th March 2017
© Daffodil International University Page - ii
DECLARATION
I hereby declare that, this report has been done under the supervision of Mohammed Abdul
Baset, Senior Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University. I
also declare that neither this internship report nor any part of this internship report has been
submitted elsewhere for award of any degree.
Submitted by:
Abu Hasnat Md. Shakik Prodhan
ID: 132-23-3597
Department of Textile Engineering
Daffodil International University
This is to certify that the above declaration made by the candidate is correct to the best of my
knowledge.
© Daffodil International University Page - iii
LETTER OF APPROVAL
3 May, 2017
To
The Head
Department of Textile Engineering
Daffodil International University
102, Shukrabad, Mirpur Road, Dhaka 1207
Subject: Approval of Industrial Attachment Report of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Program
Dear Sir,
I am just writing to let you know that this report titled as “Industrial Attachment” has been
prepared by the student bearing ID: 132-23-3597 is completed for final evaluation. The whole
report is prepared based on the factory data with required belongings. The student was directly
involved in his industrial attachment activities and the report become vital to spark of many
valuable information for the readers.
Therefore it will highly be appreciated if you kindly accept this report and consider it for final
evaluation.
Yours Sincerely
Mohammad Abdul Baset
Senior Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
Faculty of Engineering
Daffodil International University
© Daffodil International University Page - iv
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Industrial training is a practical oriented work in a running textile industry where I have get the
chance to see the different operation involved in production process practically. A number of
people have made significant contributes in preparing this report, their advices, suggestions and
guidance helped me a lot. First of all my gratefulness goes to almighty Allah to give me strength
and ability to complete the industrial training and this report. I would like to give special thanks
to Mohammad Abdul Baset, Senior Lecturer, Department of TE, Daffodil International
University, Dhaka. Deep Knowledge & keen interest of my supervisor in the field of influenced
me to carry out this report. His endless patience, scholarly guidance, continual encouragement,
constant and energetic supervision, constructive criticism, valuable advice, reading many inferior
drafts and correcting them at all stage have made it possible to complete this report. I would like
to give thanks to Mr. Golam Kibriya, Dyeing DGM, Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. located at
Shashongaon, Enayet Nagar, Fatullah, Narayangonj-1400, Bangladesh for allowing me to
complete my fifty days industrial training in this factory and also for his useful guidance
throughout the course. I want to thank Dr. Mahbubul Haque, Professor and Head, Department
of Textile Engineering in DIU for his kind help to finish our report and also to other faculty
member and the staff of TE department of Daffodil International University. We have gratitude
the Chairman, Managing directors, General Manager, Production manager, merchandising
manager, Administration manager who gave me scope for doing industrial attachment in the
factory as well as for giving scope to work in their respective section. I would like to thank my
entire course mate in Daffodil International University, who took part in this discuss while
completing the course work. At last but not the least, I like to acknowledge my parents for their
approval, support & love and all my friends for their help & support to complete the report.
© Daffodil International University Page - v
DEDICATION
At first I want to dedicate this Industrial Training Report to almighty Allah
(ALHAMDULILLAH) for giving me the opportunity to prove myself. Without his help nothing
would be possible.
Then I want to dedicate this report to Prophet Mohammad (SM).
I also want to dedicate this report to my honorable teacher’s of Daffodil International University
and all of the people who have helped me in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. to complete this report.
© Daffodil International University Page - vi
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Content Page No.
DECLARATION------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ii
LETTER OF APPROVAL----------------------------------------------------------------------------- iii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT------------------------------------------------------------------------------ iv
DEDICATION--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- v
TABLE OF CONTENTS------------------------------------------------------------------------------- vi
Chapter-1 : Executive Summary----------------------------------------------------------------------- 1
Executive Summary --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2
Chapter-2 : Information About Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.----------------------------------------- 3
2.1 Introduction -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4
2.2 Company Profile -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5
2.3 General Information ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6
2.4 Personnel Status --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7
2.5 Production Information ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8
2.6 Present Customers & Business ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 9
2.7 Product Information ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------10
2.8 Equipments --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------10
2.9 Concern of Crony Group ----------------------------------------------------------------------------11
2.10 Achievement & Certification ---------------------------------------------------------------------11
2.11 Supporting Department ----------------------------------------------------------------------------11
Chapter-3 : Details Of Attachment-------------------------------------------------------------------12
3.1 Knitting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------13
3.1.1 Division of Knitting Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------13
3.1.2 Organogram of Knitting Section (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.) ---------------------------------14
3.1.3 Knitting Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------------------------15
© Daffodil International University Page - vii
3.1.4 Specification of Knitting Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -----------------16
3.1.5 Types of Knitted Fabric Produce in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------------18
3.1.6 Types Of Yarn Used To Produced Knitted Fabrics -------------------------------------------18
3.1.7 Different Fabric GSM & Their Yarn Count (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.) --------------------19
3.1.8 Process Flow Chart of Knitting Section --------------------------------------------------------20
3.1.9 Images of knitting machine and different parts (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd) -----------------21
3.1.10 Production Parameter of Knitting Section ----------------------------------------------------22
3.1.11 Knitted Fabric Faults -----------------------------------------------------------------------------22
3.1.12 List Of Equipment In Knitting Section For Quality Control -------------------------------23
3.2 Fabric Inspection Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------------------------------24
3.2.1 Four Point System For Knitting Fault Inspection ---------------------------------------------24
3.2.2 List Of Knitting Faults That Are Detected By Fabric Inspection ---------------------------25
3.2.3 Quality Classification Of Fabric Inspection Section ------------------------------------------25
3.2.4 Formula of Four Point Grading System For Fabric Inspection ------------------------------26
3.3 Store Section for Dyeing Chemicals --------------------------------------------------------------27
3.3.1 Different Types Of Chemical Available In Chemical Store Section -----------------------27
3.3.2 Chemical Store Section Layout Plan ------------------------------------------------------------29
3.4 Dyeing Laboratory Section -------------------------------------------------------------------------30
3.4.1 Main Operations Of Dyeing Laboratory --------------------------------------------------------30
3.4.2 Colour Measurement Of Standard Sample In Laboratory Section --------------------------30
3.4.3 Machineries Of Dyeing Laboratory -------------------------------------------------------------31
3.4.3.1 Machines Of Chemical Lab --------------------------------------------------------------------31
3.4.3.2 Machines Of Physical Lab ---------------------------------------------------------------------33
3.4.4 Working Procedures of Dyeing Laboratory ----------------------------------------------------35
3.4.5 Different Test Methods Of Sample In Dyeing Laboratory -----------------------------------36
3.4.6 Procedures Of Different Tests Method For Dyed Fabric -------------------------------------36
3.4.6.1 Color Fastness To Wash Test ------------------------------------------------------------------36
3.4.6.2 Color Fastness To Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test ----------------------------------------------37
3.4.6.3 Dimensional Stability Test (Shrinkage & Spirality) ----------------------------------------37
© Daffodil International University Page - viii
3.4.6.4 Pilling Test ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------38
3.4.6.5 GSM Test -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------38
3.5 Dyeing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------39
3.5.1 Batching Section -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------39
3.5.1.1 Purpose Of Batching Section ------------------------------------------------------------------39
3.5.1.2 Machines Available In Batching Section -----------------------------------------------------39
3.5.1.2.1 Air Turning Machine-1 -----------------------------------------------------------------------40
3.5.1.2.2 Air Turning Machine-2 -----------------------------------------------------------------------40
3.5.1.2.3 Function Of Air Turning Machines ---------------------------------------------------------40
3.5.2 Specification of Dyeing Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------40
3.5.3 Different Parameters In Dyeing Production ----------------------------------------------------42
3.5.3.1 pH --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------42
3.5.3.2 Temperature --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------42
3.5.3.3 Time -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------42
3.5.4 Dyeing Procedure Different Fabrics In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------------------43
3.5.4.1 Dyeing Procedure Of Cotton Fabrics ---------------------------------------------------------43
3.5.4.2 Dyeing Procedure Of Polyester/Cotton Blend Fabrics -------------------------------------44
3.5.5 Fabric Faults And Their Remedies In Dyeing Production -----------------------------------45
3.5.6 Organogram of Dyeing Section ------------------------------------------------------------------48
3.5.7 Dyeing Section Layout Plan ----------------------------------------------------------------------49
3.6 Dyeing Finishing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------50
3.6.1 Functions of Dyeing Finishing Section ---------------------------------------------------------50
3.6.2 Working Sequence of Dyeing Finishing Section ----------------------------------------------51
3.6.3 Machines Available in Dyeing Finishing Section ---------------------------------------------51
3.6.3.1 Slitting Machine - 1 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------52
3.6.3.2 Slitting Machine - 2 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------53
3.6.3.3 Stenter Machine ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------53
3.6.3.4 Open Compacting Machine - 1 ----------------------------------------------------------------54
3.6.3.5 Open Compacting Machine - 2 ----------------------------------------------------------------55
© Daffodil International University Page - ix
3.6.3.6 Squeezer Machine -------------------------------------------------------------------------------55
3.6.3.7 Dryer -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------55
3.6.3.8 Calender Machine -------------------------------------------------------------------------------56
3.6.3.9 Tube Tex ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------57
3.6.3.10 Tumble Dryer -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------58
3.6.4 Dyeing Finishing Section Layout Plan ----------------------------------------------------------58
3.6.5 Fabric Inspection in Dyeing Finishing Section ------------------------------------------------59
3.6.5.1 Fabric Inspection Steps -------------------------------------------------------------------------59
3.6.5.2 Finished Fabric Faults Found in Inspection --------------------------------------------------59
3.7 CAD Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------------------------------------------60
3.7.1 Machines available in the CAD section --------------------------------------------------------60
3.7.2 Awareness During Marker Making in CAD Section -----------------------------------------60
3.7.3 Organogram of CAD Section --------------------------------------------------------------------61
3.7.4 Process Sequence of CAD Section -------------------------------------------------------------61
3.8 Cutting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------------------------------------------62
3.8.1 Objectives of Cutting Section --------------------------------------------------------------------62
3.8.2 Flow Chart of Cutting Section -------------------------------------------------------------------62
3.8.3 Machines Available in Cutting Section (Unit-2) ----------------------------------------------63
3.8.3.1 Hand Cutting Machine -------------------------------------------------------------------------63
3.8.3.1.1 Features of Hand Cutting Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -----------64
3.8.3.2 Cutting Auto Spreader Lay Machine ---------------------------------------------------------64
3.8.3.3 Stickering Machine ------------------------------------------------------------------------------64
3.8.3.4 Bend Knife Machine ----------------------------------------------------------------------------64
3.8.4 Organogram of Cutting Section ------------------------------------------------------------------65
3.8.5 Information Of Cutting Section (Unit-2) -------------------------------------------------------65
3.8.5 Cutting Section Layout Plan ----------------------------------------------------------------------66
3.9 Printing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------67
3.9.1 Types of Machine Available in Printing Section ----------------------------------------------67
3.9.2 Types of Printing Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------------------67
© Daffodil International University Page - x
3.9.3 Curing Temperature for Different Type of Printings -----------------------------------------68
3.9.4 Screen Preparation in Printing Section ----------------------------------------------------------68
3.9.5 Process Sequence of Printing Section -----------------------------------------------------------68
3.9.6 Foil Printing Process -------------------------------------------------------------------------------69
3.9.7 Organogram of Printing Section -----------------------------------------------------------------69
3.9.8 Printing Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------------------------70
3.10 Embroidery Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------71
3.10.1 Embroidery Stitching Types --------------------------------------------------------------------71
3.10.2 Specification of Embroidery Machine ---------------------------------------------------------71
3.10.3 Process Sequence of Embroidery Section ----------------------------------------------------72
3.10.4 Defects Found in Embroidery Section --------------------------------------------------------72
3.10.5 Organogram of Embroidery Section -----------------------------------------------------------73
3.10.6 Embroidery Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------------------73
3.11 Sewing & Finishing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------------------74
3.11.1 Machine Details In Sewing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------74
3.11.2 Pictures of Sewing Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------------75
3.11.3 Machine Layout Of Grils T- Shirt in Sewing Section --------------------------------------78
3.11.4 Needle Policy of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -----------------------------------------------------80
3.11.4.1 Broken Needle Policy -------------------------------------------------------------------------80
3.11.4.2 Plan Of Needle Policy -------------------------------------------------------------------------80
3.11.5 Process Sequence of Sewing Section ----------------------------------------------------------80
3.11.6 Faults Found in Sewing Section ----------------------------------------------------------------81
3.11.7 QC in Sewing Section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------81
3.11.8 Information Of Finishing Section --------------------------------------------------------------82
3.11.9 Process Sequence Of Finishing Section -------------------------------------------------------82
3.11.10 Sewing & Finishing Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------83
3.12 Packing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------------------------------------------84
3.12.1 Process Sequence Of Packing Section --------------------------------------------------------84
3.12.2 Types Of Different Carton Used in Packing Section ----------------------------------------84
© Daffodil International University Page - xi
3.13 QC Sections of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------------------------------------------85
3.13.1 H&M QC Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------85
3.13.1.1 Defects That Are Checked In H&M QC ----------------------------------------------------85
3.13.1.2 Machines That Are Available In H&M QC ------------------------------------------------85
3.13.1.3 Dark Room Inspection In H&M QC --------------------------------------------------------85
3.13.2 MGB QC Section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------88
3.14 Industrial Engineering Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -----------------------------------88
3.14.1 Discussions of IE Section -----------------------------------------------------------------------88
3.14.2 Functions of IE Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------89
3.14.3 Organogram of IE Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------90
3.15 Design & Product Development Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -----------------------90
3.16 Merchandising Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------------------------------90
3.16.1 Process Flow Chart Of Merchandising Section ----------------------------------------------91
3.16.2 Responsibilities Of A Merchandiser -----------------------------------------------------------92
3.16.3 Organogram of Merchandising Section -------------------------------------------------------92
3.17 HR Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------------------------------------------93
3.17.1 Recruiment ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------93
3.17.2 Payroll ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------93
3.17.3 Functions of Human Resource Section --------------------------------------------------------93
3.18 Admin Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------93
3.19 Compliance Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------94
3.20 ETP Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------------------------------------------95
3.20.1 Process Sequence of ETP Section --------------------------------------------------------------95
3.20.2 Controlling Parameters of ETP Section -------------------------------------------------------96
3.20.3 Effluent Treatment Plant Section Layout Plan -----------------------------------------------96
3.21 Utility Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd--------------------------------------------------------97
3.21.1 Boiler -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------97
3.21.1.1 Function of Boiler ------------------------------------------------------------------------------97
3.21.1.2 Classification Of Boiler -----------------------------------------------------------------------97
© Daffodil International University Page - xii
3.21.2 Machines Available in Utility Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------98
3.21.3 Working Principal Of Boiler Machine --------------------------------------------------------99
Chapter-4 : Impact Of Internship------------------------------------------------------------------ 100
4.1 Knitting section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 101
4.2 Dyeing chemicals store section .------------------------------------------------------------------ 101
4.3 Dyeing lab section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 101
4.4 Dyeing section -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 101
4.5 Dyeing finishing section -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 102
4.6 CAD Section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 102
4.7 Cutting Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 102
4.8 Printing & Embroidery Section ------------------------------------------------------------------ 102
4.9 Sewing Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103
4.10 Finishing Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103
4.11 Sample & Accesories Section ------------------------------------------------------------------- 103
4.12 Store section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103
4.13 IE Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 104
4.14 QC Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 104
4.15 Admin and compliance Section ----------------------------------------------------------------- 104
4.16 HR Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 104
4.17 ETP Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 105
4.18 Utility Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 105
Chapter-5 : Conclusion ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 106
Conclusion ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 107
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© Daffodil International University
CHAPTER-1
Executive Summary
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© Daffodil International University
Executive Summary:
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd is a young & dynamic composite Knit Garment Industry. Though
incorporated in the year 1994 as a private limited company it came into existence in late
December 1995. The mill being established at Shashongaon,Enayetnagar,Fatullah,Narayanganj,
aspires to create a niche within a short period of time in the highly competitive global market of
knit garments.Promoted by a team of young and dynamic visionaries, Abanti Colour Tex Ltd is a
100% export oriented composite knit garment industry.It possesses all the latest machineries
from the European countries with few from the United States of America, Japan, & Taiwan. The
entire plant has been installed & erected by foreign and local engineers jointly under the same
roof. The total plant is located in an eighteen storied building in an area of more than 6,50,000
square feet (Approx). The factory is well equipped with high performance machinery and
experienced technicians & a group of Smart executives are engaged here to ensure the
Compliance management for quality and customer happiness. They can produce international
standard fabric and garments of any quality and quantity. Abanti Colour Tex Ltd always keeps
pace with latest technology of Textiles industry. The products of the unit have been classified in
such a manner which shall meet the increased demand of the Europeans, USA etc. market
fulfilling all the criteria required by the buyer.
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© Daffodil International University
CHAPTER-2
Information about Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.
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© Daffodil International University
2.1 Introduction:
By means of practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowedge in the practical
field. For any technical education practical experience is almost equally important in association
with the theoretical knowledge.
The industrial attachment is the process which builds understanding skill and attitude of the
poerformer, which improves his/her knowledge in boosting productivity and services. Academic
education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, despite
all these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with the technical support of modern
machinery, skillness about various operation stages.
It also provides us sufficiant practical knowledge about production management, produstivity
evaluation, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance
of machinery, production planning and control, production cost analysis and their operation
techniques etc. The above mentioned cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoretical
knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is
based on industrial atmosphere & improve courage & inpiration to take self-responsibility.
At Abanti Colour Tex Ltd, cutting-edge technologies ,erge seamlessly with human ingenuity and
deep seat recommmitment to ensure excellence in every stage and area of their activities. The
ACTL has the capability to offer a complete product range for the export textile markets. The
goal of ACTL is become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from
Bangladesh with highly advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local human
resources.
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© Daffodil International University
2.2 Company Profile:
Figure 2.2 : Front Side View of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.
Mission:
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd committed to venture out into the changing and challenging global market as a
leading enterprise in the world apparel industry by satisfying its valued customer.
Vision:
 To operate as one of the best sources of apparel in the global market.
 To satisfy the valued customers, meeting their expectation by providing quality products and
services on time and offering them the best value in terms of quality, price, environment and
other ethical practices.
 To meet compliance standards to assure an ideal work environment and obtain optimum level of
productivity.
 To maintain the technology command in the factory.
 To promote development ensuring unprejudiced and equal opportunities for all.
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2.3 General Information:
Factory Name:ABANTI COLOUR TEX LTD
Address:PLOT # S.A-646, Shashongaon, Enayet Nagar,Fatullah, Narayangonj, Bangladesh.
Phone, Fax, E-Mail:
PHONE: 880-2-7672526, 7671073,7672404
FAX: 880-2-7671057
E-MAIL: sunny@abanti.net; admin@abanti.net
Year of Establishment: 1994
Type of Company: Private Limited
Ownership: Crony Group
Ownership Type: Private
Number Of Building: 03 Buildings
Number Of Stories:10 Stories 02 Building & 06 Stories One Building
Nearest Airport: Hazrat Shahjalal International Air Port About 25 Km
Factory Land Area:392674 Sq. Ft.
Corporate Office:
House # 365/4,Road # 06(West), Baridhara DOHS, Dhaka- 1206, Bangladesh.
PHONE : 880-2-8415126-27
FAX: 880-2-8412560
E- MAIL: sunny@abanti.net
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Management:
Chairman: Hosne Ara Nila
Managing Director: A.H. Aslam Sunny
General Manager: Nizam Uddin Mandal
2.4 Personnel Status:
Total Employee: 6500 (Approximately)
Female: 2600
Male: 3900
Production Development: 46
Sewing:2854
Cutting: 426
Finishing:837
Inspection:438
Sample,Pattern & Embroidery:703
Technical & Maintenance:60
Office Staff & Others:200
Managerial Offices:50
Dyeing, Knitting, Store:886
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© Daffodil International University
2.5 Production Information:
Total Floor Area:392674 Sq. Ft.
Total Production Employees:6000
Female: 2400
Male: 3600
Main Buyer: Mango (Spain), Kiabi (France), Mgb (United Kingdom), Tom-Tailor
(Germany), H& M (Sweden), Okaidi (France)& So On.
Market / Destinations:Europe
Yearly Turn Over:70 Million Us $
Total Floor:19th Floor
Total Line:58 Lines
Total Production/Month:
Knitting: 35 Ton/day
Dyeing: 30 Ton/day
Printing: 120000 pcs/day
Embroidery: 110 Head
Garments: 135000 pcs/day
Annual Product Capacity:35,00,000 Dozen
Item Of Products:All Kind Of Knit Item
Q.A. Level Standerd:1.5 & 2.5
Fabric Affiliation:Yes
Pattern Making Ability:Yes
Product Lead Time:Maximum – 90 Days & Minimum - 30 Days
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Sample Room Facility:Yes
In House Testing Lab: Yes
In House Embroidery:Yes
Capacity:40,000 Pcs.
2.6 Present Customers & Business:
Kiabi 25% Of Business
Mgb 20% Of Business
Tom Tailor 20% Of Business
H&M 12% Of Business
Mangoo 13% Of Business
Rewe / Okaidi-Obaibi / Gemo / Aldi / Others 10% Of Business
Figure 2.6 : Main Buyers of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.
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2.7 Product Information:
Product Type %
T-Shirt 50%
Polo Shirt 25%
Tank Top 10%
Knitted Jacket 5%
Legging 5%
Others 5%
2.8 Equipments:
List all in-house Machines for Knitting, Dyeing, Sewing & fabric inspection:
Section Quantity
Knitting 75 Set
Dyeing 40 Set
Sewing 1600 Set
Cutting 30 Set
Embroidery 187 Head
Printing 22 Table
Printing (Auto M/C) 2 Set
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2.9 Concern of Crony Group:
1. Crony Apparels Ltd.
2. Crony Fashion Ltd.
3. Crony Knitwear Ltd.
4. Crony Tex Sweater Ltd.
5. S. S. Cotton Fabrics Ltd.
6. Crony Printing & Embroidery Ltd.
7. BD Packing Ltd
8. Crony Tex Sourcing Ltd.
2.10 Achievement & Certification:
1. ISO 9001:2008 (QMS)
2. BSCI
3. SEDEX
4. OE 100 & OE Blended
5. Oeko-Tex
6. International Star for Leadership in Quality Award
(Gold Category)
7. Fair-trade
2.11 Supporting Department:
 Personnel Administration
 Procurement
 Marketing
 HRD
 Finance &Accounting
 MIS (Management Information System)
 Work Study
 Complience & Safety
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© Daffodil International University
CHAPTER-3
Details of Attachment
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© Daffodil International University
3.1 Knitting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 75 set knitting machines available & average production is
35 ton/day.In this section, firstly, knitting manager gets a production sheet from the merchandiser
as accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it.
Then production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in which the
production will be running. Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they
take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity,
maintenance complexity, etc. Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts
required stitch length and grey GSM for required final GSM. Supervisor checks daily production
regularity and make operator conscious about finishing tin due time. Operators operate machine
in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric
fault, then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he
informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot. After required production and final
inspection in 4-point system, they deliver in dyeing section. As a short description of knitting it
can be said that knitting is the most popular technique of fabric formation by inter-looping one or
one set of yarns. Knitted fabric can be classified into two main categories such as warp knitted
fabric and weft knitted fabric. Due to higher production, lower cost and easy installment demand
of weft knitted fabric is increasing day by day. For the weft knitted fabric production, two main
knitting machines are used here: (i) Flat Bed Knitting Machine & (ii) Circular Knitting Machine.
On the basis of knitted stitches per minute against the capital cost of the machine, circular
garment-length machines are generally more productive than flat bed machines for cut and sew
knitwear. There are four weft knitted structure named single jersey, rib, interlock and purl. It is
possible to produce all of these knit fabrics by circular machine after some changes. Circular
machines are mainly single cylinder type for single jersey fabric, cylinder and dial type for rib
and interlock fabrics and double cylinder types for purl fabrics. Single jersey is the simplest
structure among four basic wefts knitted structure. Production of knitted structure is totally
mathematical based & it depends on various factors. Machine gauge is one of the important
factors among them. It is very important for the knitter to calculate the productivity of a machine
in order to be able to schedule production and specify the delivery dates to the customer.
3.1.1 Division of Knitting Section:
Knitting section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. is divided into two main section:
(i) Fabric Knitting Section
(ii) Fabric Inspection Section
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3.1.2 Organogram of Knitting Section (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.) :
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3.1.3 Knitting Section Layout Plan:
Figure 3.1.3 : Knitting Unit-2 Layout
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3.1.4 Specification of Knitting Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. :
M/C No: 01-12 M/C No: 13 -16
M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Rib/Interlock
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24
Cylinder Dia: 42 Cylinder Dia: 30
Needle: 3168
M/C No : 17 M/C No : 18
M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Single Jersey
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24
Cylinder Dia: 26 Cylinder Dia: 36
Needle: 1944 Needle: 2712
M/C No : 19 M/C No : 20-21
M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24
Cylinder Dia: 24 Cylinder Dia: 30
M/C No : 22 M/C No : 23
M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24
Cylinder Dia: 25 Cylinder Dia: 20
Neddle:1872
M/C No : 24 M/C No : 25
M/C Type: Rib/Interlock M/C Type: Rib/Interlock
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Cam Box: 82 Cam Box: 90
Cylinder Dia: 42 Cylinder Dia: 22
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M/C No : 26 M/C No : 27
M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Rib/Interlock
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 18 Cam Box: 82
Cylinder Dia: 40 Cylinder Dia: 20
Needle: 2356
M/C No : 28 M/C No : 29
M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Single Jersey
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 28 Gauge: 28
Cylinder Dia: 30 Cylinder Dia: 30
Needle: 2640 Needle: 2640
M/C No : 30 M/C No : 31
M/C Type: Rib/Interlock M/C Type: Rib/Interlock
Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long
Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan
Gauge: 18 Gauge: 18
Cylinder Dia: 40 Cylinder Dia: 40
Needle: 2256 Needle: 2356
M/C No : 32 M/C No : 33
M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J) M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J)
Brand Name: Precision Fukuhara Brand Name: Precision Fuku
Origin: Japan Origin: Japan
Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24
Feeder: 72 Feeders: 72
Cylinder Dia: 30, Cylinder Dia: 32
Needle: 2715 Needle: 2715
M/C No : 34 M/C No : 35
M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J) M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J)
Brand Name: Precision Fukuhara Brand Name: Precision Fukuhara
Origin: Japan Origin: Japan
Gauge: 16 Gauge: 16
Feeder: 72 Feeder: 72
Cylinder Dia: 30 Cylinder Dia:32
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3.1.5 Types of Knitted Fabric Produce in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
3.1.6 Types Of Yarn Used To Produced Knitted Fabrics:
 Combed yarn
 Carded yarn
 CVC (80%C+20%P)
 PC yarn (80%P+20%C)
 Mellange yarn (85%C+15%Viscose)
 Viscose
 Polyester
Single Jersey
 Single Jersey
 Single Jersey (Lycra)
 Single Jersey (Slub)
Pique
 Single Pique
 Double Pique
 Pique (Auto Stripe)
Interlock
 Interlock
 Interlock (Cotton)
 Interlock (PC)
Rib  1×1 Rib
 2×2 Rib
 2×1 Rib
Fleece  Fleece
 Terry Fleece
Lacoste
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste
 Lacoste (Auto Stripe)
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3.1.7 Different Fabric GSM & Their Yarn Count (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.):
(i) S/J without lycra:
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
110 – 120 40 S
– 36 S
120 – 130 36 S
– 32 S
130 – 140 32 S
– 28 S
140 – 150 28 S
150 – 160 26 S
170 – 210 24 S
(ii) Rib without lycra:
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 – 190 36 S
– 32 S
190 – 200 30 S
200 – 215 28 S
215 – 230 26 S
230 – 250 24 S
250 – 300 24 S
(iii) Interlock without lycra:
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
200 – 220 34 S
220 – 230 32 S
230 – 250 30 S
250 – 300 26 S
(iv) Lacoste without lycra:
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 – 190 30 S
190 – 210 28 S
210 – 230 26 S
230 – 250 26 S
(v) 40D Lycra Rib & 40D Lycra S/J:
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 – 190 34 S
190 – 210 32 S
210 – 220 30 S
220 – 240 28 S
240 – 250 26 S
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3.1.8 Process Flow Chart of Knitting Section:
The process sequences of knitting section which are followed in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. are
given below:
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3.1.9 Images of knitting machine and different parts (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd):
Figure 3.1.9.1 : Single Jersey Circular Knitting M/C Figure 3.1.9.2 : Auto Striper M/C (Single Jersey)
Figure 3.1.9.3 : Creel & Yarn Bobbin Figure 3.1.9.4 : Cam Box
Figure 3.1.9.5 : Cylinder of Circular Knitting M/C Figure 3.1.9.6 : Needle
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3.1.10 Production Parameter of Knitting Section:
 Machine Diameter
 Machine RPM (Revolution Per Minute)
 No. Of Feeders In Use
 Machine Gauge
 Count Of Yarn
 M/C Running Time
 Machine Running Efficiency
3.1.11 Knitted Fabric Faults:
Fault Description Causes Remedies
Vertical stripes  Defective needles or
sinkers.
 Checking needle detectors.
 Use of fabric fault detector.
Dropped stitches  Yarn guide not properly
set.
 Defective needle latch.
 Take-down too high.
 Wrong yarn threading.
 Precise yarn guide resetting.
 Needle change.
 Yarn consumption and
couliering readjustment.
 Take-down readjustment.
 Dial position readjustment.
Holes  Presence of knot in yarn.
 Weak places in yarn.
 Yarn tension too high .
 Yarn too dry.
 Yarn guide not properly
set .
 Use of flat knots.
 Yarn regularly control.
 Yarn consumption and
couriering readjustment.
 Precise yarn guide
resetting.
 Use of fabric fault detector.
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3.1.12 List Of Equipment In Knitting Section For Quality Control:
 Inspection M/C
 Electronic balance
 GSM cutter
 Measuring tape
 Scissors
 Indication sticker
Figure 3.1.12 : GSM Cutter
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3.2 Fabric Inspection Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In the fabric inspection section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. all rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c
time to time and are inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any
major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line,
slubs etc are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system. Abanti
Colour Tex Ltd. maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four point
system is followed to inspect the knitted fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded
in the inspection sheet.
Figure 3.2 : Fabric Inspection M/C
3.2.1 Four Point System For Knitting Fault Inspection:
Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection at Abanti Colour
Tex Ltd. :
Knitting Fault Point
Slub 1
Any hole 4
Needle/Sinker line 4
Needle breakage (upto 10) 4
Press off 4
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 3″ in length 1
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 6″ in length 2
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 9″ in length 3
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination above 9″ in length 4
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3.2.2 List Of Knitting Faults That Are Detected By Fabric Inspection:
 Hole
 Drop stitch
 Oil stain
 Needle mark
 Pin hole
 Missing yarn
 Sinker mark
 Broken needle
 Stripe
 Slub
 Thick & Thin place
 Tight course
 Wrong ply
 Wrong design
 Lycra out
3.2.3 Quality Classification Of Fabric Inspection Section:
Following table shows the quality classification of four point grading system followed by inspection at
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
Grade – A Grade - B Grade - C
Up to 20 21 – 28 Above 28
OK Ask Reject
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3.2.4 Formula of Four Point Grading System For Fabric Inspection:
Figure 3.2.4.1 : Four Point System & Shrinkage Equation
Figure 3.2.4.2 : Knitted Fabric Inspection Sheet
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3.3 Store Section for Dyeing Chemicals:
Different types of chemicals are supplied to dyeing section from the store section. It is located in
the ground floor of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Chemical types are mainly general chemicals, acid,
cationic softener, nonionic (white), anti crease, wetting agent, fixing, buffer, soaping agent,
sequestering agent, levelling agent, enzyme, stabilizer & brightener.
3.3.1 Different Types Of Chemical Available In Chemical Store Section:
Following table shows various types of chemicals that are delivered to dyeing section from the
store house of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. :
Chemicals Type Chemicals Name
General Chemicals Soda Ash
Caustic
H202
Hydrose
Antifoam-39
Gluber Salt (anhydrous)
Acid H2S04
Acetic Acid
Formic Acid
Oxalic Acid
Invatex AC
Cationic Softener Alcamine CWS
Sun Soflon-21
Non-lonic (White) Sun Soflon-A300
Supamine FPs
Anticrease Texport GL-500
Texport D-900
Ciba Fluid C
Wetting Agent Invading DA
Sun Morl CK-1
SandocleanPCLF
Flxing Neofix R-250(FDR)
Cibatex ECO
Buffer Amonium Sulphide
Cibatex AB-45
Soaping Agent Alcosper AD
Lipotol PS-60
Sadopur RSK
Sequestering Agent Invatex CS
Neocrystal BGS
Sirrix 2UD
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Levelling Agent Cibacel BDC
Neocrystal 200B
Drimagin E2R
Lyoprint RG
Setamal BL
Croaks N
Enzyme Bio-Polish EC
Bio-Polish AL
Tinozyme 44L
Stabilizer Stabilizer Sifa
NeoratePH-100
Brightener Siba White
Uvitex BHV
Uvitex BBT
Naka white
Leucopher BMB
Figure 3.2 : Store Section for Dyeing Chemicals
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3.3.2 Chemical Store Section Layout Plan:
Figure 3.3.2: Layout of Dyeing Chemical Store
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3.4 Dyeing Laboratory Section:
In the laboratory section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. sample fabrics are dyed according to buyer’s
requirements. Depending on lab dip development, sample dyeing and bulk production dyeing
planning are done. It plays an important role in dyeing process. For fulfilling buyer satisfaction
samples are prepared in the dyeing lab and sent to them through merchandiser for approval.
Dyeing laboratory of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. is divided into two sections:
i. Chemical Laboratory
ii. Physical Laboratory
3.4.1 Main Operations Of Dyeing Laboratory:
 To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
 To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectroflash.
 To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
 Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A B C)
3.4.2 Colour Measurement Of Standard Sample In Laboratory Section:
Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as possible.
Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory. In Abanti Colour
Tex Ltd. Color measurement is done by two methods: (i) Manual Method & (ii) Instrumental
Method.
In manual method, the std. sample’s color is measured by comparing it with previously produced
samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with which the color of the std.
matched, that sample’s color recipe is being taken for shade matching .This method’s accuracy
completely depends on the vision of the person related to it but person must be needed gather
experience about color matching.
In instrumental method, Spectrophotometer interfaced with a PC is used for shade matching.
This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of light at different wave
length. When the standard sample is being subjected under spectrophotometer, then the
instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic colors within the tolerance limit of color
difference. In this way, color measurement of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose
of shade matching.
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3.4.3 Machineries Of Dyeing Laboratory:
3.4.3.1 Machines Of Chemical Lab:
Figure 3.4.3.1 : Chemical Lab Section
1. Machine Name: Lab dip dyeing Machine
Model:H-24-M
Brand:NEWAVE LAB Equipment Co Ltd.
Country: Taiwan
2. Machine Name: Eco Dyer
Model:Eco-24
Brand:XIAMENRAPID CO LTD
Country: China
3. Machine Name: Temparature Controller Rapid Machine
Model:LT-24SF
Country: China
4. Machine Name: Emergency Eye face Wash
Model:4710
Brand:UDYOGI INDUSTRIES
Country: India
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5. Machine Name: Digital Electronic Balance
Brand:Judever Scale Co Ltd.
Country: Taiwan
6. Machine Name :Pipette Machine
Model:E4-XLS
Brand:RAININ
7. Machine Name: Electronic Precision Balance
Model:KD-UBED-600
Capacity:600kg
8. Machine Name: Dryer Machine
Brand: Siemens
Model: q500
Capacity: 8kg
Country: UAE
9. Machine Name: Miele Professional Washing Machine
Model: pw6055
10. Machine Name: Electrolux Washing Machine
Model: w55h
11. Machine Name: Quickwash Plus
Brand: SDL Atlas
Country : Germany
12. Machine Name: Washcator
Model: M223CLS
Brand: SDL Atlas
Country : Germany
13. Machine Name: Electrolux Dryer
Brand : Electrolux Laundry Systems AB
Model: T5130
Country: Sweeden
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14. Machine Name: Siemens Washing Machine
Model: IQ-500
Capacity: 500kg
15. Machine Name: Light Box
Model: Verivine
3.4.3.2 Machines Of Physical Lab:
Figure 3.4.3.2 : Physical Lab Section
1. Machine Name:Martindal Abrasion Pilling Tester
Model:M235
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
2. Machine Name:pH Tester
Model:BP3001
Brand:SDL Atlas Figure 3.4.3.2.1 : pH Tester
Country: Germany
3. Machine Name: Yarn Evenness tester
Model:BP3001
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
Figure 3.4.3.2.2 : Yarn Evenness Tester
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4. Machine Name: Color Evenness to Rubbing
Machine Name:Electronic Crock meter
Model:M238B
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
5. Machine Name: Suntest Cps+
(Color fastness to light) Figure 3.4.3.2.3 : Abrasion Pilling Tester
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
6. Machine Name:Brusting Strength Tester
Model:M229P
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
Figure 3.4.3.2.4 : Auto Pilling Tester
7. Machine Name: Wrap Reel
Model:Y219P
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
8. Machine Name: Incubator
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
9. Machine Name: Yarn Twist Tester
Brand:SDL Atlas Figure 3.4.3.2.5 : Yarn Twist Tester
Country: Germany
10. Machine Name: ICI Pilling Box
Model:MAG-C14F1
11. Machine Name:MAG Electronic Pilling Tester
Brand:MAG Solvic Pvt Ltd.
12. Machine Name: Color Fastness to Washing
Brand:SDL Atlas
Country: Germany
Figure 3.4.3.2.6 : Suntest Cps+
13. Machine Name: Perspiration Tester
Brand: SDL Atlas
Country : Germany
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Figure 3.4.3.2.7 : Wrap Reel Tester Figure 3.4.3.2.8 : Brusting Strength Tester
Figure 3.4.3.2.9 : Color Evenness to Rubbing Figure 3.4.3.2.10 : Incubator
3.4.4 Working Procedures of Dyeing Laboratory:
Following Working Procedures are followed in the dyeing lab of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. :
i. Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement.
ii. Recipe prediction for sample dyeing.
iii. Sample dyeing until matching with swatch card.
iv. Fastness & other tests of the fabric or yarn are done here.
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3.4.5 Different Test Methods Of Sample In Dyeing Laboratory:
Different types of fastness tests of the dyed fabric are done in the laboratory section of Abanti
Colour Tex Ltd. Different types of method are followed for different types of tests.
There are mainly two types of tests are done in dyeing laboratory section:
1. Physical Tests:
 GSM Test
 Shrinkage test
 Pilling resistance etc.
2. Chemical Tests:
 Fastness to washing
 Fastness to rubbing etc.
3.4.6 Procedures Of Different Tests Method For Dyed Fabric:
3.4.6.1 Color Fastness To Wash Test:
Required materials:
1. Sample size 40 x 100 mm
2. Multifiber at 40 x 100 mm
3. ECE detergent
4. Sodium Perborate
5. Distilled water
6. Normal cold water
7. Steel balls
Procedure:
1. Cut sample & multifibere at 40 x 100 mm.
2. 50 ml ECE detergent & 50 ml Sodium perborate is taken with the sample.
3. The sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine.
4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water.
5. Dry at 600C by hanging or by flat iron press but temperature should not be more than
1500C.
Report:
Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey Scale &
Staining Scale.
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3.4.6.2 Color Fastness To Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test:
Sample:
1. Dyed fabric -15 cm x 5 cm
2. White Test Cloth -5 cm x 5 cm
Procedure:
1. White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire.
2. The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds. And the rubbing
fastness of the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed.
3. For rubbing fastness of wet sample, the rubbing cloth is placed in the water
and socked and squeeze.
4. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with Stainless
steel wire and run ten times manually then assesses the attaining on to the
rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth is accessed.
Report:
Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining of
the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.
3.4.6.3 Dimensional Stability Test (Shrinkage & Spirality):
Sample:
Two piece of 50 cm x 50 cm fabric is taken for test
Procedure:
Conditioning: Put the sample in the table for 4 hours for conditioning before Starting test.
1. Cut the sample 50 x 50 cm & benchmark should be 35 x 35 cm.
2. Stitch the Sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine.
3. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer’s choice.
Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble dry except echo scouring is flat dry.
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3.4.6.4 Pilling Test:
1. Pilling test is applicable for fabric with synthetic fabric.
2. This test is carried out in pilling box.
3. A Sample of 10 cm x 10 cm is sewn round a rubber tube.
4. Then the tube in the Pilling box and the door of it is closed.
5. Then the meter is set for 10600 cycles.
6. After the cycle is completed, the fabric is assessed by a special grey scale. The grey scale
is provided Pilling box.
3.4.6.5 GSM Test:
GSM is the most important factor. There is two GSM cutters in the dyeing lab. The Sample cut
by this weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm.) from the balance is multiplied by
100 to get Value of GSM.
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3.5 Dyeing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. :
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 40 set dyeing machines available & average production is
30 ton/day. In this section, dyeing operations are done which are used at various stages of
production to add colour and intricacy to textiles and increase the product value. Dyeing
operation chemically changes a substance so that the reflecting light appears. The raw materials
used for dyeing production are: (i) Grey Fabric, (ii) Dyes & (iii) Chemicals. Here, firstly
batching operation is done. After that pretreatment & dyeing are done. Finally, the dyed fabrics
are sent to dyeing finishing section. Mainly single jersey, interlock, lacoste, fleece, terry, rib,
lycra rib, 1 x 1 rib & others fabrics are dyed in this section.
3.5.1 Batching Section:
This section is included in the dyeing section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. In this section according
to batch no, color, width, style and construction the production planning for dyeing is made.
Batching process is mainly done to get ready the fabric which should be dyed and process for a
particular lot of a particular order.
3.5.1.1 Purpose Of Batching Section:
 To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
 Turn the grey fabric if required.
 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria:
 Order sheet
 Dyeing shade (Color Or White, Light Or Dark)
 M/C Capacity
 M/C available
 Type of fabric
 Emergency
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
 To keep Records for every previous dyeing.
3.5.1.2 Machines Available In Batching Section:
Figure 3.5.1.2.1: Air Turning Machine-1 Figure 3.5.1.2.2: Air Turning Machine-2
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3.5.1.2.1 Air Turning Machine-1:
Model: DNAT-400
Company: Dong Nam Industrial Co. Ltd
Manufacturing Country: Korea
3.5.1.2.2 Air Turning Machine-2:
Model: DNAT-400
Company: Dong Nam Industrial Co. Ltd
Manufacturing Country: Korea
3.5.1.2.3 Function Of Air Turning Machines:
Alter the side of fabric for better dyeing and finishing. Then fabrics are stored in the trolley
according to the nozzle capacity of production dyeing m/c.
3.5.2 Specification of Dyeing Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
Machine
No.
Machine
Name
Manufacturing
Coutry
Capacity Yd/Min Nozzle
No.
M:L
1 AK Dyeing
Machine
Taiwan 180 kg 300 1 1:6
2 AK Dyeing
Machine
Taiwan 200 kg 300 1 1:7
3 AK Dyeing
Machine
Taiwan 300 kg 450 1 1:7
4 AK Dyeing
Machine
Taiwan 300 kg 450 1 1:7
5 AK Dyeing
Machine
Taiwan 1200 kg 300 6 1:7
6 Dilmener
Machine
Turkey 450 kg 400 2 1:10
7 Dilmener
Machine
Turkey 600 kg 400 2 1:6
8 Dilmener
Machine
Turkey 900 kg 350 3 1:6
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9 AK Dyeing
Machine
Taiwan 400 kg 350 2 1:7
10 AK Dyeing
Machine
Taiwan 100 kg 350 1 1:7
11 AK Dyeing
Machine
Taiwan 1200 kg 350 6 1:7
12 AK Dyeing
Machine
Taiwan 1200 kg 350 6 1:7
13 AK Dyeing
Machine
Taiwan 800 kg 350 4 1:7
Figure 3.5.2.1 : Dilmener Dyeing Machine
Figure 3.5.2.2 : AK Dyeing Machine
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3.5.3 Different Parameters In Dyeing Production:
3.5.3.1 pH:
3.5.3.2 Temperature:
3.5.3.3 Time:
For scouring and bleaching 60-90 mins
For reactive dyeing 60-90 mins
For disperse dyeing 60-90 mins
During peroxide bleaching & scouring 9-11
During enzyme treatment 4.5-5
Before addition of leveling agent 6-6.5
Before addition of color softener 6-6.5
Before addition of white softener 4.5-5
Softener at stenter & de-watering 5.5-6
Silicon softener 5.5-6
Reactive dyeing 10.5-12
Disperse dyeing 4.5-5.5
For cotton scouring 95-110˚C
For cotton cold wash 40-50˚C
For cotton hot wash 70-80˚C
For cotton acid wash 60-70˚C
For cotton dyeing 80˚C ( For hot brand)/60˚C (For cold brand)
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3.5.4 Dyeing Procedure Different Fabrics In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
3.5.4.1 Dyeing Procedure Of Cotton Fabrics:
i. Required amount of water was taken into the machine
ii. The fabric was loaded and run for 5-10 minutes in normal temperature
iii. Demineralization 60 0C were added at a time for 20 minutes
iv. Caustic was added at normal temperature for 5 minutes
v. Temperature increased at 600 C
vi. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) was added for 5 minutes
vii. Temperature increased at 950C and continue for 1 hour
viii. Sample check
ix. Cold wash at 750C for 5-10 minutes
x. Hot wash at 900C for 5-10 minutes
xi. Required amount of water was loaded
xii. Enzyme was added
xiii. Acetic acid was added
xiv. Temperature increased at 550C for 60 minutes
xv. Temperature increased at 800C for 5-10 minutes
xvi. Cold wash at 400C and drain
xvii. Leveling agent is added
xviii. Temperature increased at 600C
xix. Run time 10 minutes
xx. Salt dosing
xxi. Temperature increased at 600C
xxii. Run for 10 min
xxiii. Color addition
xxiv. Dosing time 30 min
xxv. Temperature increase at 600C for 5 min
xxvi. Run for 10 min
xxvii. Soda Ash
xxviii. 600C for 40 min dosing
xxix. Shade check
xxx. Rinsing
xxxi. Wash
xxxii. Acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10 min
xxxiii. 400C temperature
xxxiv. Washing agent
xxxv. Hot wash at 900C for 90 min
xxxvi. Fixing agent
xxxvii. 900C temperature for 10 min dosing
xxxviii. Run time 10min
xxxix. Cold wash
xl. Drain
xli. Softener
xlii. 400C for 20 min
xliii. Fabric unload
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3.5.4.2 Dyeing Procedure Of Polyester/Cotton Blend Fabrics:
i. Required amount of water filled
ii. Fabric was loaded and run for 10 min
iii. Demineralization 600C were added at a time for 20 minutes
iv. Run for 10 min at 780 C
v. Rinse for 10 min
vi. Drain
vii. Required amount of water filled
viii. Leveling agent added
ix. Check pH at 4.5
x. Dyes added for 15 min.
xi. Temperature increased at 800C Run for 15 min
xii. Temperature increase at 1300C
xiii. Run for 45 min.
xiv. Cooling at 800C
xv. Shade check
xvi. Rinsing for 15 min.
xvii. Drain
xviii. Required amount of water filled
xix. Temperature increased at 600C
xx. Run for 20 min.
xxi. Add caustic soda
xxii. Temperature increased at 700C
xxiii. Add H2O2and temperature increased at 980C
xxiv. For light color run 60 min, for deep color run 40 min
xxv. Sample check
xxvi. Check PH
xxvii. Add enzyme at 600C temperature
xxviii. Run 40 min
xxix. Add leveling agent
xxx. Add salt
xxxi. Add color at same temperature
xxxii. Run 10 min
xxxiii. Add Soda and run 35 min
xxxiv. Shade check
xxxv. Hot wash
xxxvi. Cold wash
xxxvii. Softeners add and run 30 min
xxxviii. Drain
xxxix. Fabric upload
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3.5.5 Fabric Faults And Their Remedies In Dyeing Production:
1.Crack, rope & crease marks:
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 Incorrect process procedure
 Higher fabric speed
Remedies:
 Pre-Heat setting
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Reducing the m/c load
 Higher liquor ratio
 Running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure
2.Fabric distortion and increase in width:
Causes:
 Too high material speed
 Low liquor ratio
Remedies:
 By decreasing both nozzle pressure & winch speed
3.Pilling:
Causes:
 Too high mechanical stress on the surface of the fabric
 Excess speed during processing
 Excess foam formation in the dye bath
Remedies:
 By using of a suitable chemical lubricant
 By using antifoaming agent
 By turn reversing the Fabric before dyeing
4.Running Problem:
(i) Ballooning:
Causes:
 Seam joining with too densely sewn
Remedies:
 By cutting a vertical slit of 10-15 cm in length for escaping the air
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(ii) Intensive foaming:
Causes:
 Pumping a mixture of air and water
Remedies:
 By using antifoaming agent
5.Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
 Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring, bleaching & mercerizing)
 Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
 Quick addition of dyes and chemicals
 Lack of control of dyeing m/c
Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment
 By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres
 By slow addition of dyes and chemicals
 Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
6.Shade variation (Batch to batch):
Batch to batch shade variation is common in exhaust dyeing which is not completely avoidable.
Even though, to ensure a consistent batch to batch production of shade the following matters
should be controlled carefully:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals
 Maintain the same liquor ratio
 Follow the standard pretreatment procedure
 Maintain the same dyeing cycle
 Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the shade
 Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and
temperature in the process
 The Ph, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily
7.Dye spot:
Causes:
 Improper mixing of dyestuff in the solution, in right amount of water, at the temperature
Remedies:
 Pass the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer when adding it to
the chemical tank, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed
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8.Roll to roll variation:
Causes:
 Poor migration property of dyes
 Improper dyes solubility
 Hardness of water
 Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals
 Proper m/c speed
 Use of soft water
9.Crease mark:
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
 Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
 Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Reducing the m/c load
 Higher liquor ratio
10.Softener mark:
Causes:
 Improper mixing of the softener
 Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener
 Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
 Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed
 Proper Mixing of the softener before addition
 Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
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3.5.6 Organogram of Dyeing Section:
DGM
Manager
Asst. Manager
Sr.Production Officer
Production Officer
Asst. Production Officer
Officer
Incharge
Asst. Incharge (Finishing)
Supervisor
Data Entry Officer
Store Officer
Q.C
Lab Technician
Asst. Tec. A/C
Snr.Officer (Lab)
Trainee Chemist
Trainee Officer
Lab Officer
Lab Assistant
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3.5.7 Dyeing Section Layout Plan:
Figure 3.5.7 : Dyeing Unit Layout
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3.6 Dyeing Finishing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In the dyeing finishing section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., The final processing of the fabric is
done to increase the natural properties or attractiveness before the fabric is cut into apparel.In
dyeing finishing secction multiple processes are done that convert the fabric into a usable
material. Dyeing finishing is more specifically any process that is performed after dyeing the
fabric to improve the look, performance of the finished fabric.
3.6.1 Functions of Dyeing Finishing Section:
 To improve the attractiveness and service ability of textile material
 To increase life & durability of the textile material
 To set dyes and chemicals in to the textile material
 To meet up specific and use
Figure 3.6 : Dyeing Finishing Section
(Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.)
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3.6.2 Working Sequence of Dyeing Finishing Section:
Receive fabric from dyeing section
Tube or Open fabric
Squeezer
Slitter (Tube fabric)
Stenter
Compactor
Final inspection
Packing or Rolling
Fabric sent to delivery section
3.6.3 Machines Available in Dyeing Finishing Section:
Sl No. Name of Machine Number of Machine
1 Slitting Machine 2
2 Stenter Machine 1
3 Open Compacting Machine 2
4 Squeezer Machine 1
5 Dryer 1
6 Calender Machine 1
7 Tube Tex 1
8 Tumble Dryer 1
Total 10
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3.6.3.1 Slitting Machine - 1:
Origin: Italy
Manufacturing Company: Corino
Comercial name: Super Slit
Slitting Machine Working Cycle:
Rope Squeezing
Detwisting
Slitting
Squeezing
Folding
Delivery
This machine is used for open finish.
Figure 3.6.3.1 : Slitting Machine
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3.6.3.2 Slitting Machine - 2:
Origin: Italy
Manufacturing Company: Bianco
Slitting Machine Working Cycle:
Feed roller
Centering roller
Gear box
Dancing roller
Free roller
Spandle roller
Delivery
3.6.3.3 Stenter Machine:
Origin: Germany
Manufacturing Company: Bruckner
Stenter Machine Working Cycle:
Squeezing
Washing with softener
Twisting /Spirality
Stripe correction
Drying
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Figure 3.6.3.3 : Stenter Machine
3.6.3.4 Open Compacting Machine - 1:
Origin:Italy
Manufacturing Company: Lafer Spa
Open Compacting Machine Working Cycle:
Making Fabric flat
Dia control
Steaming
Ironing
GSM control
Finishing
Figure 3.6.3.4 : Open Compacting Machine
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3.6.3.5 Open Compacting Machine - 2:
Origin:Italy
Manufacturing Company: Ferraro
This machine is consisted of three zones:
1.Compactor zone
2.Surprizing zone
3.Standard zone
3.6.3.6 Squeezer Machine:
Origin:Italy
Manufacturing Company :Corino
This machine is used for tube finish.
3.6.3.7 Dryer:
Origin:Switzerland
Manufacturing Company: Santex
Dryer Machine Working Cycle:
Washing with cold water
Softener
Over Fit roller
Dia setting
Conveyor
Drying
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Figure 3.6.3.7 : Santex Machine
3.6.3.8 Calender Machine:
Comercial Name :Soft calender machine
Origin:Korea
Manufacturing Company: Dongnam Industrial Co. Ltd.
Model:DNC-1400
Figure 3.6.3.8 : Soft Calender Machine
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3.6.3.9 Tube Tex:
Origin: USA
Manufacturing Company: American Textile Manufacturing Association
Tube Tex Machine Working Cycle:
Metal detector
Oven feed
Dia control
Steam
Feed roller
Retard roller
Shrinkage ,GSM and Dia control
Folding
Figure 3.6.3.9 : Tube Tex
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3.6.3.10 Tumble Dryer:
Origin: Taiwan
Manufacturing Company: Machinery Works Co Ltd.
Capacity: 55kg
Temprature: Max 110°
This machine is used for controling GSM and shrinkage of fabric.
3.6.4 Dyeing Finishing Section Layout Plan:
Figure 3.6.4 : Dyeing Finishing Unit Layout
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3.6.5 Fabric Inspection in Dyeing Finishing Section:
3.6.5.1 Fabric Inspection Steps:
Following dyeing finishing inspection steps are followed in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
1st step - Shade Check
2nd step - Running Shade Check
3rd step - Dia Check
4th step – Faults & GSM Check
3.6.5.2 Finished Fabric Faults Found in Inspection:
Following defects are found in the dyeing finishing inspection:
 Uneven shade
 Oil spot
 Naps
 Crease mark
 Machine Stoppage mark
 Listing
 Line mark
 Pick missing
 Double yarn
 Dead cotton
 Bowing
 Fly yarn contamination
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3.7 CAD Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., marker making is done in the CAD (Computer-Aided Design)
section. The time consuming and cumbersome process of textile designing has been made easier
by CAD section. From this section pattern paper & marker paper are delivered to cutting section.
Here “Optitex PDS” software is used for pattern & marker making. For marker making
efficiency is kept between 80-85%. Main aims of this section are minimizing the fabric wastage
during cutting & maintaining accurate fabric cutting.
3.7.1 Machines available in the CAD section:
1. Morgan Leonardo 220 – Ultra Wide Printer
Marker Dia: 182-210 cm
2. Ioline
Marker Dia: 182 cm
3. Algotex Wave Jet 180
Marker Dia: 182-210 cm
4. Pattern Cutter
Brand: Winda
Origin: China
3.7.2 Awareness During Marker Making in CAD Section:
 Pattern alignment
 Pattern direction
 Parts missing
 Mismatched checked/stripes
 Over lapping
 Marker too wide than fabric
 Poor Or double line marking
 When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, the grain line should be parallel
to the line of the warp in a knit fabric where pattern pieces are laid across the layer’s the
line is kept parallel to course
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3.7.3 Organogram of CAD Section:
Manager
Snr. Officer
CAD Officer
Asst.Officer
Trainee Officer
3.7.4 Process Sequence of CAD Section:
Artwork & Spec sheet form merchandiser
Making pattern
Computer Processing order art work
Marker making as per color art work
Manual working for waist loop
Discuss with fabric department
Marker Delivery to cutting section
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3.8 Cutting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., cutting section is the one which plays a key role in production. It is
the beginning of the garments production. So cutting section has the most efficient professionals
working in it. There are 30 set cutting machines and 6 cutting tables available in this section.
Fabric cutting means to cut out the garment piece of the lays from of fabric with the help of
cutting template or marker. It is the previous step of sewing. This section works as fast as
possible because the more the unloading of bundles can take place the more the production can
take place. In this section spreading, laying, marking, cutting, numbering, bundling and
embellishment of the fabric are done.
3.8.1 Objectives of Cutting Section:
 To get the accurate shape of the components of garments.
 To make the garments parts ready for sewing.
 Prepare fabrics for RMG (Ready Made Garment).
 Cut fabrics according to design and pattern.
 Prepare fabrics for sewing and also for printing and embroidery.
3.8.2 Flow Chart of Cutting Section:
Dyeing management approval
Cutting management approval
Fabric spreading on table
Placing the marker paper
(Pattern paper & Chalk is used for yarn dyed fabric)
Cutting by machine man
Sticker matching
Bundling
Cut components check
Deliver into sewing section
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3.8.3 Machines Available in Cutting Section (Unit-2):
Sl No. Name of Machine Number of Machine
1 Hand cutting machine 18
2 Cutting auto spreader lay machine 2
3 Stickering machine 8
4 Bend knife machine 2
Total 30
3.8.3.1 Hand Cutting Machine:
Manufacturer: KM Mack
Country: Japan
Speed: 3000/3600m
Frequency: 50/60Hz
Volt: 220v
Length: 8-10 inch
Blade: Straight Bar Blade
Figure 3.8.3.1 : Hand Cutting Machine
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3.8.3.1.1 Features of Hand Cutting Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
 Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays.
 Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric.
 High cutting speed.
 Sharp and heavy corners can be cut.
 Blade could be sharpened by attached grinding facilities.
 Blade height 10 to 33cm.
 Blade stroke 2.5cm to 4.5cm.
3.8.3.2 Cutting Auto Spreader Lay Machine:
Manufacturer: Kuris
Country: Germany
Figure 3.8.3.2 : Auto Spreader Lay Machine
3.8.3.3 Stickering Machine:
Stickers are attached to fabric after cutting by this machine.
3.8.3.4 Bend Knife Machine:
Three types of interlining are done by this machine:
(i) Open interlining, (ii) Mesh interlining, & (iii) Normal interlining
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3.8.4 Organogram of Cutting Section:
Snr. Manager
Manager
Snr.Incharge
In-Charge
Q.C. In-Charge
Delivery Incharge
Supervisor
Asst. Supervisor
Officer
Quality Controller
L.Q.C
Cutting Machine Man
Marker Man
Asst. Spreader Man
3.8.5 Information Of Cutting Section (Unit-2):
Total Workers 180
No. Of Table 6
No. Of Total Machine 30
No. Of Pattern Master 5
Fabric Lay Height Standard Max 150 Lay (Cotton/Polyester)
Daily Production 45000 pieces
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3.8.5 Cutting Section Layout Plan:
Figure 3.8.5 : Cutting Unit-2 Layout
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3.9 Printing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 22 printing tables available & average production is 120000
pcs/day. In this section, firstly artwork is made & design is created. After that design is exposed
& then it is checked by sample department. Lastly, if the created design is approved then it is
applied in the final production.
3.9.1 Types of Machine Available in Printing Section:
 Digital Exposure Machine
 Manual Exposure Machine
 Heat Press Machine
 Airtac GFR
 Curing Machine
 Auto Printing Machine
 Laser Cutting Machine
3.9.2 Types of Printing Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
 Pigment printing
 Rubber printing
 Discharge printing
 High density printing
 Crack printing
 Pup Printing
 Foil printing
 Water printing
 Plastic printing
Figure 3.9.1 : Auto Printing Machine (Diamond Red Chili – 12 Head)
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3.9.3 Curing Temperature for Different Type of Printings:
Type of Printing Temp
Pigment printing 160-1700
C
Rubber printing 150-1700
C
Discharge printing 2000
C
High density printing 1800
C
3.9.4 Screen Preparation in Printing Section:
Mesh fabric tight with frame
Applied chemical texture on the mesh & dried 8 min in air
Placed design paper under the mesh
Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4%
Remove the colored texture from the design are by water spraying
3.9.5 Process Sequence of Printing Section:
Count the garments part
Screen preparation
Printing paste preparation
Applied garments part on the printing bed gum in the marked portion
Printing the garments part by using screen
Drying the printing portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow
Curing the printing portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600
-1800
c
Inspection the quality
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3.9.6 Foil Printing Process:
Temp – 15000
C
Pressure – 100 psi
Time – 6 sec
Pressing – 2 times
Add adhesive on the require design by screen
Place the fabric part on the pressing m/c
Pressing the upper part of the m/c at 100 psi temp 1000
C for 6 sec
3.9.7 Organogram of Printing Section:
Snr. Manager
Manager
Snr.Incharge
In-Charge
Asst. In-Charge
Designer
Printing Master
Asst. Master
Supervisor
Sr.Q.C
Lab Technician
L.Q.C
Quality Controller
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3.9.8 Printing Section Layout Plan:
Figure 3.9.8 : Printing Unit Layout (1st Floor)
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3.10 Embroidery Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 187 heads of embroidery available. Int this section, firstly
sample from buyer is received. Then it is scanned and imported to computer softwatre “Adobe
Photoshop”. Then analysis & design of required embroidery are done. After required adjustment
& correction from buyer it is approved for bulk production.
3.10.1 Embroidery Stitching Types:
Following embroidery stitches are used in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
i Run stitch
ii Motif stitch
iii Tatami stitch
iv Shirting stitch
3.10.2 Specification of Embroidery Machine:
Brand Name: Tajima
Origin: Japan
No Of Head: 20
No Of Needle Per Head: 9
Total No. Of Embroidery Head: 187
Figure 3.10.2 : Embroidery Machine
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3.10.3 Process Sequence of Embroidery Section:
Art Work Or Sample From Buyer
Scan & Imported To “Adobe Photoshop”
Analysis
Design Demanded Type Of Embroidery
Comment / Adjustment & Corrrection
Buyer Approval
Bulk Production
3.10.4 Defects Found in Embroidery Section:
 Broken stitch
 Out stitch
 Embroidery slinked
 Double stitch
 Needle hole
 Raw edge
 False stitch
 Loose thread
 Needle mark
 Bobbin thread loose
 Frame spot mark
 Thread mistake
 Wrong design
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3.10.5 Organogram of Embroidery Section:
In-Charge
Asst. In-Charge
Designer
Supervisor
Sr.Q.C
Quality Controller
L.Q.C
3.10.6 Embroidery Section Layout Plan:
Figure 3.10.6 : Embroidery Unit Layout (3rd Floor)
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3.11 Sewing & Finishing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 1600 set sewing machines available & average garments
production is 135000 pcs/day.In this section, fabric is joined by the use of needle and thread.
Sewing & Finishing section is the biggest section in the industry. The main purpose of sewing is
to produce a line along which two or more fabrics are joined by sewing, fusion, gluing, stapling
or alternative method. After completing sewing garments are sent to inspection section & then to
finishing section. In the finishing section ironing, measurement check, quality inspection, size
separate, hang tagging, folding, poly packing & final inspection are done. Then garments are sent
to packing section.
3.11.1 Machine Details In Sewing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
Machine Name Brand Name Origin No. Of Thread
Used In M/C
Total
Quantity
Plain Machine BROTHER China 2 Thread 375
Flat Lock Cylinder
Bed Machine
PEGASUS Japan 5 Thread
525
Flat Lock Flat Bed
Machine
PEGASUS Japan 5 Thread
Over Lock Machine PEGASUS Japan 4 Thread
320BROTHER China 4 Thread
PEGASUS Japan 5 Thread
Back Tape Machine PEGASUS Japan 4 Thread 85
Button Attach
Machine
BROTHER China 1 Thread 50
Button Hole
Machine
BROTHER China 2 Thread 60
Snap Button Attach
Machine
PEGASUS Japan 80
Rib Cutter Machine JUKI Japan 4 Thread 25
Flat seam machine PEGASUS Japan 50
Bar Tack Machine PEGASUS China 50
Total Machine 1620
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3.11.2 Pictures of Sewing Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
Figure 3.11.2.1:
Overlock Machine
Figure 3.11.2.2:
Plain Machine
Figure 3.11.2.3:
Flat Lock Flat Bed Machine
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Figure 3.11.2.4:
Flat Lock Cylinder Bed Machine
Figure 3.11.2.5:
Back Tape Machine
Figure 3.11.2.6:
Rib Cutter Machine
Figure 3.11.2.7:
Button Hole Machine
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Figure 3.11.2.8:
Button Attach Machine
Figure 3.11.2.9:
Bar Tack Machine
Figure 3.11.2.10:
Snap Button Attach Machine
Figure 3.11.2.11:
Flat Seam Machine
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3.11.3 Machine Layout Of Grils T- Shirt in Sewing Section:
BUYER KIABI
STYLE NO. SDBS17( HGTYE)
ORDER NO. 344820
ITEM GRILS T- SHIRT
WORK PLACE UNIT-02, SEW-01 LINE-1
ORDER QTY 17643 PCS
INPUT DATE 15/2/2017
REPORTING DATE 16/2/2017
LINE TARGET 100
OP.
NO.
PROCESS NAME M/C SMV TGT/HR USED
M/C
1 FRONT/ BACK PART MATCH HELP 0.24 250 1
2 SHOULDER JOIN O/L 0.21 286 1
3 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.25 240 1
4 PLACKET PASTING IRON I/M 0.44 273 2
5 PLACKET SERVICING O/L 0.28 214 1
6 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.24 250 1
7 PLACKET TOP STITCH S/N 0.6 200 2
8 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.4 150 1
9 NECK PIPING F/L 0.26 231 1
10 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.22 273 1
11 PIPING NOSE TACK S/N 0.28 214 1
12 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.2 300 1
13 MAIN + SIZE LABEL SEWING S/N 0.23 261 1
14 MAIN +SIZE LABEL JOIN S/N 0.24 250 1
15 SLEEVE SERVICING O/L 0.41 146 1
16 SLEEVE TOP STITCH S/N 0.59 203 2
17 GRATHRING CUT MARK HELP 0.37 162 1
18 SLEEVE GRATHRING S/N 0.66 182 2
19 SLEEVE TACK WITH BODY S/N 0.58 310 3
20 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.36 167 1
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21 SLEEVE JOIN O/L 0.70 171 2
22 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.43 140 1
23 SIDE CLOSE O/L 0.64 188 2
24 BOTTOM SCISSORING HELP 0.39 154 1
25 BOTTOM PIPING F/L 0.83 217 3
26 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.51 118 1
27 SIDE SLIT CROSS TACK S/N 0.62 194 2
28 BOTTOM PIPING TOP STITCH S/N 1.88 128 4
29 ARMHOLE TOP STITCH S/N 0.70 171 2
30 SLIT BARTACK B/T 0.51 118 1
MIN MAX
SMV 14.27 LINE TARGET 32 151
M/O SMV 10.66 75%
HELPER SMV 3.61 25%
Machine Name Machine Quantity
S/N M/C 20
O/L MC 7
F/L M/C 4
B/H M/C 0
B/S M/C 0
B/T M/C 1
S/B M/C 0
E/H M/C 0
KANSAI 0
I/M 2
HELP 11
TOTAL MACHINE 34
TOTAL MANPOWER 45
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3.11.4 Needle Policy of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
3.11.4.1 Broken Needle Policy:
1. If any needle breaks down in the time of work then broken part and needle change from needle
man with a new needle.
2. If worker do not find out the broken part then worker inform to supervisor.
3. If worker do not find out broke part then the garment will be reject. Because that garment can
be contain this broken part.
3.11.4.2 Plan Of Needle Policy:
1. Worker should be careful in time of sewing.
2. Needle selection should be correct.
3. Correct fabric tension and thread tension.
4. Proper needle setting in sewing machine.
3.11.5 Process Sequence of Sewing Section:
Receive bundle of various parts from cutting section
Place it in the end of the line to a helper
Open the bundle
Through it to sewing
Sewing
Finished sewing
Inspection
Send to finishing section
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3.11.6 Faults Found in Sewing Section:
 Open seam
 Raw material/ shades/ wrong side
 Oil or Dirt stains
 Holes in material
 Measurement out of range
 Wrong size label
 Missing trim
 Wrong trim
 Uneven stitch line or parts
 Loose / skip stitches
 Uncut thread
 SPI not correct
 Uneven shoulder length
 Rib shading
 Stripe Mismatch
 Irregular bottom hem
 Wrong Placket shape
 Poor joints
 Raw edges
 Seam Puckering
 Wrong button/Hole placement
 Uneven sleeve length
 Back neck tape uneven
3.11.7 QC in Sewing Section:
 Inspector will check each & every process at the work station and report.
 Defect and measurement both should be checked in the line.
 If the inspector finds a defective unit, corrective action should be taken.
 The concern production supervisors should rectify defective unit with the same
operator.
 Proper attachment of machine.
 Transportation section to section or station to station
 Proper maintenance, cleanliness.
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3.11.8 Information Of Finishing Section:
No. of Iron table 50
No. of inspection table 50
No. of final inspection table 15
No. of folding and packing table 30
No. of Hang tag , Color and Shade checking table 25
3.11.9 Process Sequence Of Finishing Section:
Iron table
Check table
Measurement table
Getup area
4 point inspection
Size wise separation
Hand tag
Folding table
Poly table
Send to packing section
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3.11.10 Sewing & Finishing Section Layout Plan:
Figure 3.11.10 Sewing & Finishing Unit-2 Layout
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3.12 Packing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In this section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., generally there are three types of packing are done:
1. Assort packing: Different garments size ratio in one blister.
2. Solid packing: Same garments size in one poly pack.
3. Mixed packing: This is needed if there are extra garments pieces left.
3.12.1 Process Sequence Of Packing Section:
Receive garments from finishing section
Folding & insert a board, tissue
Poly packing
Cartooning
Applied costape on the carton pack
Packing completed
Shipment
3.12.2 Types Of Different Carton Used in Packing Section:
1. Depend On Stitching:
 Stitching Carton
 Metal Free Carton
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2. Depend On Ply:
 3 Ply Carton
 5 Ply Carton
 7 Ply Carton
3. Depend On Size:
 Master Carton
 Inner Carton
3.13 QC Sections of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
Following QC sections are available in the industry:
3.13.1 H&M QC Section:
Three types of inspection are done:
(i) Trial inspection (It is done before bulk production)
(ii) Inline inspection (It is done during production)
(iii) Final inspection (It is done after production)
3.13.1.1 Defects That Are Checked In H&M QC:
(i) Critical defect: Needle issue, Button pull test, Nickel test, Bad smell, Insect etc.
(ii) Major defect: Oil spot, Broken stitch, Skip stitch, Holes, Open seam, Shade
difference, Loose thread etc.
(iii) Minor defect: Uneven shape, Poor shade, Dirty spot etc. [3 minor=1 major]
3.13.1.2 Machines That Are Available In H&M QC:
1. Pull Test Machine: Button strength test at 90N
2. Moisture Tester: Moisture of fabric should be kept between 50-65°C
3. Light Meter: For matching shade, 1500 lux is the requirement.
3.13.1.3 Dark Room Inspection In H&M QC:
Garment is inspected in three kinds of light:
(i) Bright light
(ii) Low light
(iii) UV light
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Figure 3.13.1.2 : Pull Test Machine
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© Daffodil International University
Figure 3.13.1 : RQS System of H&M QC
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© Daffodil International University
3.13.2 MGB QC Section:
Three types of inspection are done in MGB QC section. They are:
(i) Inline inspection (By third party)
(ii) Pre-final inspection
(iii) Final inspection
3.14 Industrial Engineering Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
This section is concerned with the design, improvement and installation of integrated system of
man, machine and equipment drawing upon specialized knowledge and skill in the technical,
economics and human sciences, either with the principles or methods of engineering analysis and
design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such system.
3.14.1 Discussions of IE Section:
1. SMV (Standard Minute Value)
2. Time study
3. Capacity study
4. Follow up observation study
5. Garments breakdown
6. Machine layout
7. Men-Machine study
8. Line target setup
9. Process wise target
10. Line efficiency
11. Floor efficiency
12. Sewing forecast
13. Finishing forecast
14. Input-Output analyze (WIP- Work In Process)
15. Hourly production check
16. Planning
17. Operator skill report & grade wise salary fix
18. Re-skill test
19. Skill matrix
20. Overtime control
21. Thread consumption
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22. Fabric consumption
23. CM costing
24. Method study
25. Loss time count etc.
3.14.2 Functions of IE Section:
 Work measurement of sewing operations, cutting room jobs and finishing jobs
 Setting standard time for sewing operations and manual operations
 Style analysis and conducting research and development (R&D) of the styles
 Improving method of work and design workstation
 Production planning and factory capacity determination
 Work aids development
 Work station designing and machine layout planning
 Labor cost estimation
 Performance measuring of workers
 Training of workers (sewing operators)
 Designing incentive scheme and calculating incentive for sewing operators
 Setting line production target of the sewing lines and chasing production from line
supervisors and operators
 Application of lean tools
 Assist line supervisors by preparing resource requirement plan (machines and equipment
and manpower), line setting and line balancing etc.
 Assist production managers in target planning and production planning,
 Help merchandiser and marketing personnel by providing labor cost and production lead
time,
 Help HR department by providing operator performance level, and help in operator
recruitment
 Prepare MIS reports and show management team product status on daily basis and alert
management team if their attention is needed
 Set up standards operating procedures for new tasks, new process required for ever
changing fashion products
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3.14.3 Organogram of IE Section:
DGM
Snr. Manager
Manager
Asst. Manager
Snr. Officer
Officer
Trainee Officer
3.15 Design & Product Development Section Of Abanti Colour Tex
Ltd.:
Followings are the basic works of this section:
(i) Offering seasonal garments. Mainly for Summer/Winter/Autumn/Spring
(ii) Material proposal
(iii) Assist the designer of buyer
(iv) Improve the design of garments
3.16 Merchandising Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., merchandising section mediates marketing and production
departments. It is the methods, practices, and operations used to promote and sustain certain
categories of commercial activity. It includes directing and overseeing the development of
product line from start to finish. A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a
profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to
the buyers being handled.
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3.16.1 Process Flow Chart Of Merchandising Section:
Merchandiser
Negotiation with buyer & collect order
Costing
Sample making
Get approval & placement of order
Collect accessories for production
Line balancing
Production monitoring
Inspection
Final Inspection
Document preparation for banking
Shipment
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© Daffodil International University
3.16.2 Responsibilities Of A Merchandiser:
 Product Development
 Market and product Analysis
 Selling the concept
 Booking orders
 Confirming Deliveries
 Designing and Sampling
 Costing
 Raw Material
 Flow Monitoring
 Production Follow Ups
 Payments Follows
 Internal & external communication,
 Sampling
 Lab dips
 Accessories & trims
 Preparing internal order sheets
 Preparing purchase orders
 Advising and assisting production,
 Advising quality department about quality level
 Mediating production and quality departments
 Giving shipping instructions and following shipping
 Helping documentation department
 Taking responsibility for inspections and
 Following up the shipment
3.16.3 Organogram of Merchandising Section:
Manager
Office Asst.
Sr. Merchandiser
Merchandiser
Trainee Merchandiser
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© Daffodil International University
3.17 HR Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
Human resources are the set of individuals who make up the workforce of an organization,
business sector, or economy. In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., Human Resource section is divided into
two sections:
3.17.1 Recruiment:
(i) Manpower budgeting & organogram planning
(ii) Advertisement in online
(iii) Motivation & Training
(iv) Follow up
(v) Planning for workers and staffs.
3.17.2 Payroll:
(i) Absent or present count
(ii) Salary related works
3.17.3 Functions of Human Resource Section:
 Job analysis and job description
 Determining wages and salaries
 Recruitment and selection
 Performance appraisal
 Training and development
 Employee welfare and motivation
 Addressing employees grievances
 Labor management relations
 Implementing organizational policies
 Promotions
 Position classification and grading
 Salary determination
 Performance appraisal review and processing
 Awards review and processing.
3.18 Admin Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., administrative staff manages corporate description such as human
resources, finance and accounting, billing, health and safety, and environmental compliance.
They do order process, preparing invoices, conducting marketing and sales, managing human
resources etc.
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© Daffodil International University
This section discusses about the following works:
 Daily attendance report by attendance machine
 Weekly attendance report by attendance machine
 Monthly attendance report by attendance machine
 ID card prepare
 Operators personal file prepare
 Daily machine inventory
 Daily man power report
 Daily HR history position
 Lefty procedure follow up
 Lefty letter issue
 Lefty report
 Regain report
 Attendance bonus report
 Over time check report
 Old id card repaired
 Attendance missing report
3.19 Compliance Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., compliance simply means conformity with environmental laws and
regulations. This section uses various methods to achieve compliance, including compliance
assistance, compliance monitoring and compliance incentives. This section discusses about the
following works:
 No electric supply in the store room.
 Loading area security.
 Safety side completely audits.
 Follow up the CAD man training.
 Follow up the CAD man personal computer password.
 High & weight is limited in the cutting section.
 Metal gloves & musk is compulsory in cutting section.
 RQS report follows up.
 Floor inventory follow up.
 Operation placement check in sewing section.
 Machine maintain report follow up.
 Needle policy report follows up.
 Toilet clean check.
 Water check report.
 Spot removing area follows up.
 Metal detector machine check.
 Follow up pest control policy.
 Grading report check.
 HR personal file check.
 Follow up regain report.
 Finally follow up all rules and regulation.
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3.20 ETP Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:
In this section color particles & chemicals that are presented in the water discharged from
various wet processing stages are removed. Effluent treatment plant is a process to convert
wastewater which is water no longer needed or suitable for its most recent use into an effluent
that can be either returned to the water cycle with minimal environmental issues or reused. In
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Biological ETP (Biochemical) is used. Here, Bacteria is used to treat the
contaminated water and chemicals are used to control the process as well as the growth of
bacteria.
3.20.1 Process Sequence of ETP Section:
Raw effluent
Inlet
Equalization tank
Flocculation tank
Dozing tank (Lime,FeSo4 and Polymer)
Lamella clariefier
pH correction tank
Bio tower
Aeration tank (Urea+DAP)
Lamella clariefier
Filter feed pump
Treated water tank
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© Daffodil International University
3.20.2 Controlling Parameters of ETP Section:
The characteristics of waste water assumed at Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. are as follows:
pH = 11
BOD = 300 mg/L
COD = 200 mg/L
Suspended Solid (SS) = 200 mg/L
Color = Dark Reddish
Final treated quality of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. discharge is:
pH = 6-9 (disposable limit 6-9)
BOD = 37 mg/ L (disposable limit 50 mg/L)
COD = 147 mg / L (disposable limit 200 mg/L)
Suspended Solid = 51 mg/L (disposable limit 150 mg/L)
Color = Color Less
3.20.3 Effluent Treatment Plant Section Layout Plan:
Figure 3.20.3 : ETP Layout
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© Daffodil International University
3.21 Utility Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd:
In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. following utility services are available:
i. Water
ii. Electricity
iii. Steam
iv. Gas
v. Compress air
3.21.1 Boiler:
Steam generator or boiler is usually a closed vessel made of steel. There is two boilers in
Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.
3.21.1.1 Function of Boiler:
Boiler function is to the heat produced by the combustion of fuel (Gas) to water and
ultimately to generator steam. The steam produced may be supplied in wet processing section
for:
1. Heating Cylinder Dryer
2. Steaming During Dyeing
3.21.1.2 Classification Of Boiler:
1. Fire Tube Boiler
2. Water Tube Boiler
Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited
Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited
Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited
Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited
Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited
Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited
Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited
Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited
Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited
Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited

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Report on Industrial Attachment at Abanti Colour Tex Limited

  • 1. © Daffodil International University Faculty of Engineering Department of Textile Engineering Report On Industrial Attachment At Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Course Title: Industrial Attachment Course Code: TE-431 Submitted By Abu Hasnat Md. Shakik Prodhan ID: 132-23-3597 Supervised By Mohammad Abdul Baset Senior Lecturer Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University This Report Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering Advance in Apparel Manufacturing Technology Duration Time: 10th January 2017 to 10th March 2017
  • 2. © Daffodil International University Page - ii DECLARATION I hereby declare that, this report has been done under the supervision of Mohammed Abdul Baset, Senior Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University. I also declare that neither this internship report nor any part of this internship report has been submitted elsewhere for award of any degree. Submitted by: Abu Hasnat Md. Shakik Prodhan ID: 132-23-3597 Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University This is to certify that the above declaration made by the candidate is correct to the best of my knowledge.
  • 3. © Daffodil International University Page - iii LETTER OF APPROVAL 3 May, 2017 To The Head Department of Textile Engineering Daffodil International University 102, Shukrabad, Mirpur Road, Dhaka 1207 Subject: Approval of Industrial Attachment Report of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Program Dear Sir, I am just writing to let you know that this report titled as “Industrial Attachment” has been prepared by the student bearing ID: 132-23-3597 is completed for final evaluation. The whole report is prepared based on the factory data with required belongings. The student was directly involved in his industrial attachment activities and the report become vital to spark of many valuable information for the readers. Therefore it will highly be appreciated if you kindly accept this report and consider it for final evaluation. Yours Sincerely Mohammad Abdul Baset Senior Lecturer Department of Textile Engineering Faculty of Engineering Daffodil International University
  • 4. © Daffodil International University Page - iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENT Industrial training is a practical oriented work in a running textile industry where I have get the chance to see the different operation involved in production process practically. A number of people have made significant contributes in preparing this report, their advices, suggestions and guidance helped me a lot. First of all my gratefulness goes to almighty Allah to give me strength and ability to complete the industrial training and this report. I would like to give special thanks to Mohammad Abdul Baset, Senior Lecturer, Department of TE, Daffodil International University, Dhaka. Deep Knowledge & keen interest of my supervisor in the field of influenced me to carry out this report. His endless patience, scholarly guidance, continual encouragement, constant and energetic supervision, constructive criticism, valuable advice, reading many inferior drafts and correcting them at all stage have made it possible to complete this report. I would like to give thanks to Mr. Golam Kibriya, Dyeing DGM, Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. located at Shashongaon, Enayet Nagar, Fatullah, Narayangonj-1400, Bangladesh for allowing me to complete my fifty days industrial training in this factory and also for his useful guidance throughout the course. I want to thank Dr. Mahbubul Haque, Professor and Head, Department of Textile Engineering in DIU for his kind help to finish our report and also to other faculty member and the staff of TE department of Daffodil International University. We have gratitude the Chairman, Managing directors, General Manager, Production manager, merchandising manager, Administration manager who gave me scope for doing industrial attachment in the factory as well as for giving scope to work in their respective section. I would like to thank my entire course mate in Daffodil International University, who took part in this discuss while completing the course work. At last but not the least, I like to acknowledge my parents for their approval, support & love and all my friends for their help & support to complete the report.
  • 5. © Daffodil International University Page - v DEDICATION At first I want to dedicate this Industrial Training Report to almighty Allah (ALHAMDULILLAH) for giving me the opportunity to prove myself. Without his help nothing would be possible. Then I want to dedicate this report to Prophet Mohammad (SM). I also want to dedicate this report to my honorable teacher’s of Daffodil International University and all of the people who have helped me in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. to complete this report.
  • 6. © Daffodil International University Page - vi TABLE OF CONTENTS Content Page No. DECLARATION------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ii LETTER OF APPROVAL----------------------------------------------------------------------------- iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT------------------------------------------------------------------------------ iv DEDICATION--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- v TABLE OF CONTENTS------------------------------------------------------------------------------- vi Chapter-1 : Executive Summary----------------------------------------------------------------------- 1 Executive Summary --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 Chapter-2 : Information About Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.----------------------------------------- 3 2.1 Introduction -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4 2.2 Company Profile -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5 2.3 General Information ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6 2.4 Personnel Status --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7 2.5 Production Information ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8 2.6 Present Customers & Business ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 9 2.7 Product Information ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------10 2.8 Equipments --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------10 2.9 Concern of Crony Group ----------------------------------------------------------------------------11 2.10 Achievement & Certification ---------------------------------------------------------------------11 2.11 Supporting Department ----------------------------------------------------------------------------11 Chapter-3 : Details Of Attachment-------------------------------------------------------------------12 3.1 Knitting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------13 3.1.1 Division of Knitting Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------13 3.1.2 Organogram of Knitting Section (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.) ---------------------------------14 3.1.3 Knitting Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------------------------15
  • 7. © Daffodil International University Page - vii 3.1.4 Specification of Knitting Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -----------------16 3.1.5 Types of Knitted Fabric Produce in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------------18 3.1.6 Types Of Yarn Used To Produced Knitted Fabrics -------------------------------------------18 3.1.7 Different Fabric GSM & Their Yarn Count (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.) --------------------19 3.1.8 Process Flow Chart of Knitting Section --------------------------------------------------------20 3.1.9 Images of knitting machine and different parts (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd) -----------------21 3.1.10 Production Parameter of Knitting Section ----------------------------------------------------22 3.1.11 Knitted Fabric Faults -----------------------------------------------------------------------------22 3.1.12 List Of Equipment In Knitting Section For Quality Control -------------------------------23 3.2 Fabric Inspection Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------------------------------24 3.2.1 Four Point System For Knitting Fault Inspection ---------------------------------------------24 3.2.2 List Of Knitting Faults That Are Detected By Fabric Inspection ---------------------------25 3.2.3 Quality Classification Of Fabric Inspection Section ------------------------------------------25 3.2.4 Formula of Four Point Grading System For Fabric Inspection ------------------------------26 3.3 Store Section for Dyeing Chemicals --------------------------------------------------------------27 3.3.1 Different Types Of Chemical Available In Chemical Store Section -----------------------27 3.3.2 Chemical Store Section Layout Plan ------------------------------------------------------------29 3.4 Dyeing Laboratory Section -------------------------------------------------------------------------30 3.4.1 Main Operations Of Dyeing Laboratory --------------------------------------------------------30 3.4.2 Colour Measurement Of Standard Sample In Laboratory Section --------------------------30 3.4.3 Machineries Of Dyeing Laboratory -------------------------------------------------------------31 3.4.3.1 Machines Of Chemical Lab --------------------------------------------------------------------31 3.4.3.2 Machines Of Physical Lab ---------------------------------------------------------------------33 3.4.4 Working Procedures of Dyeing Laboratory ----------------------------------------------------35 3.4.5 Different Test Methods Of Sample In Dyeing Laboratory -----------------------------------36 3.4.6 Procedures Of Different Tests Method For Dyed Fabric -------------------------------------36 3.4.6.1 Color Fastness To Wash Test ------------------------------------------------------------------36 3.4.6.2 Color Fastness To Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test ----------------------------------------------37 3.4.6.3 Dimensional Stability Test (Shrinkage & Spirality) ----------------------------------------37
  • 8. © Daffodil International University Page - viii 3.4.6.4 Pilling Test ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------38 3.4.6.5 GSM Test -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------38 3.5 Dyeing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------39 3.5.1 Batching Section -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------39 3.5.1.1 Purpose Of Batching Section ------------------------------------------------------------------39 3.5.1.2 Machines Available In Batching Section -----------------------------------------------------39 3.5.1.2.1 Air Turning Machine-1 -----------------------------------------------------------------------40 3.5.1.2.2 Air Turning Machine-2 -----------------------------------------------------------------------40 3.5.1.2.3 Function Of Air Turning Machines ---------------------------------------------------------40 3.5.2 Specification of Dyeing Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------40 3.5.3 Different Parameters In Dyeing Production ----------------------------------------------------42 3.5.3.1 pH --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------42 3.5.3.2 Temperature --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------42 3.5.3.3 Time -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------42 3.5.4 Dyeing Procedure Different Fabrics In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------------------43 3.5.4.1 Dyeing Procedure Of Cotton Fabrics ---------------------------------------------------------43 3.5.4.2 Dyeing Procedure Of Polyester/Cotton Blend Fabrics -------------------------------------44 3.5.5 Fabric Faults And Their Remedies In Dyeing Production -----------------------------------45 3.5.6 Organogram of Dyeing Section ------------------------------------------------------------------48 3.5.7 Dyeing Section Layout Plan ----------------------------------------------------------------------49 3.6 Dyeing Finishing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------50 3.6.1 Functions of Dyeing Finishing Section ---------------------------------------------------------50 3.6.2 Working Sequence of Dyeing Finishing Section ----------------------------------------------51 3.6.3 Machines Available in Dyeing Finishing Section ---------------------------------------------51 3.6.3.1 Slitting Machine - 1 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------52 3.6.3.2 Slitting Machine - 2 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------53 3.6.3.3 Stenter Machine ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------53 3.6.3.4 Open Compacting Machine - 1 ----------------------------------------------------------------54 3.6.3.5 Open Compacting Machine - 2 ----------------------------------------------------------------55
  • 9. © Daffodil International University Page - ix 3.6.3.6 Squeezer Machine -------------------------------------------------------------------------------55 3.6.3.7 Dryer -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------55 3.6.3.8 Calender Machine -------------------------------------------------------------------------------56 3.6.3.9 Tube Tex ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------57 3.6.3.10 Tumble Dryer -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------58 3.6.4 Dyeing Finishing Section Layout Plan ----------------------------------------------------------58 3.6.5 Fabric Inspection in Dyeing Finishing Section ------------------------------------------------59 3.6.5.1 Fabric Inspection Steps -------------------------------------------------------------------------59 3.6.5.2 Finished Fabric Faults Found in Inspection --------------------------------------------------59 3.7 CAD Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------------------------------------------60 3.7.1 Machines available in the CAD section --------------------------------------------------------60 3.7.2 Awareness During Marker Making in CAD Section -----------------------------------------60 3.7.3 Organogram of CAD Section --------------------------------------------------------------------61 3.7.4 Process Sequence of CAD Section -------------------------------------------------------------61 3.8 Cutting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------------------------------------------62 3.8.1 Objectives of Cutting Section --------------------------------------------------------------------62 3.8.2 Flow Chart of Cutting Section -------------------------------------------------------------------62 3.8.3 Machines Available in Cutting Section (Unit-2) ----------------------------------------------63 3.8.3.1 Hand Cutting Machine -------------------------------------------------------------------------63 3.8.3.1.1 Features of Hand Cutting Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -----------64 3.8.3.2 Cutting Auto Spreader Lay Machine ---------------------------------------------------------64 3.8.3.3 Stickering Machine ------------------------------------------------------------------------------64 3.8.3.4 Bend Knife Machine ----------------------------------------------------------------------------64 3.8.4 Organogram of Cutting Section ------------------------------------------------------------------65 3.8.5 Information Of Cutting Section (Unit-2) -------------------------------------------------------65 3.8.5 Cutting Section Layout Plan ----------------------------------------------------------------------66 3.9 Printing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------67 3.9.1 Types of Machine Available in Printing Section ----------------------------------------------67 3.9.2 Types of Printing Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------------------67
  • 10. © Daffodil International University Page - x 3.9.3 Curing Temperature for Different Type of Printings -----------------------------------------68 3.9.4 Screen Preparation in Printing Section ----------------------------------------------------------68 3.9.5 Process Sequence of Printing Section -----------------------------------------------------------68 3.9.6 Foil Printing Process -------------------------------------------------------------------------------69 3.9.7 Organogram of Printing Section -----------------------------------------------------------------69 3.9.8 Printing Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------------------------70 3.10 Embroidery Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------71 3.10.1 Embroidery Stitching Types --------------------------------------------------------------------71 3.10.2 Specification of Embroidery Machine ---------------------------------------------------------71 3.10.3 Process Sequence of Embroidery Section ----------------------------------------------------72 3.10.4 Defects Found in Embroidery Section --------------------------------------------------------72 3.10.5 Organogram of Embroidery Section -----------------------------------------------------------73 3.10.6 Embroidery Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------------------73 3.11 Sewing & Finishing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------------------74 3.11.1 Machine Details In Sewing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. --------------------------74 3.11.2 Pictures of Sewing Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------------75 3.11.3 Machine Layout Of Grils T- Shirt in Sewing Section --------------------------------------78 3.11.4 Needle Policy of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -----------------------------------------------------80 3.11.4.1 Broken Needle Policy -------------------------------------------------------------------------80 3.11.4.2 Plan Of Needle Policy -------------------------------------------------------------------------80 3.11.5 Process Sequence of Sewing Section ----------------------------------------------------------80 3.11.6 Faults Found in Sewing Section ----------------------------------------------------------------81 3.11.7 QC in Sewing Section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------81 3.11.8 Information Of Finishing Section --------------------------------------------------------------82 3.11.9 Process Sequence Of Finishing Section -------------------------------------------------------82 3.11.10 Sewing & Finishing Section Layout Plan ---------------------------------------------------83 3.12 Packing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ----------------------------------------------------84 3.12.1 Process Sequence Of Packing Section --------------------------------------------------------84 3.12.2 Types Of Different Carton Used in Packing Section ----------------------------------------84
  • 11. © Daffodil International University Page - xi 3.13 QC Sections of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------------------------------------------85 3.13.1 H&M QC Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------85 3.13.1.1 Defects That Are Checked In H&M QC ----------------------------------------------------85 3.13.1.2 Machines That Are Available In H&M QC ------------------------------------------------85 3.13.1.3 Dark Room Inspection In H&M QC --------------------------------------------------------85 3.13.2 MGB QC Section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------88 3.14 Industrial Engineering Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -----------------------------------88 3.14.1 Discussions of IE Section -----------------------------------------------------------------------88 3.14.2 Functions of IE Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------89 3.14.3 Organogram of IE Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------90 3.15 Design & Product Development Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -----------------------90 3.16 Merchandising Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. -------------------------------------------90 3.16.1 Process Flow Chart Of Merchandising Section ----------------------------------------------91 3.16.2 Responsibilities Of A Merchandiser -----------------------------------------------------------92 3.16.3 Organogram of Merchandising Section -------------------------------------------------------92 3.17 HR Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------------------------------------------93 3.17.1 Recruiment ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------93 3.17.2 Payroll ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------93 3.17.3 Functions of Human Resource Section --------------------------------------------------------93 3.18 Admin Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------------93 3.19 Compliance Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------------------------------94 3.20 ETP Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ---------------------------------------------------------95 3.20.1 Process Sequence of ETP Section --------------------------------------------------------------95 3.20.2 Controlling Parameters of ETP Section -------------------------------------------------------96 3.20.3 Effluent Treatment Plant Section Layout Plan -----------------------------------------------96 3.21 Utility Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd--------------------------------------------------------97 3.21.1 Boiler -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------97 3.21.1.1 Function of Boiler ------------------------------------------------------------------------------97 3.21.1.2 Classification Of Boiler -----------------------------------------------------------------------97
  • 12. © Daffodil International University Page - xii 3.21.2 Machines Available in Utility Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. ------------------------98 3.21.3 Working Principal Of Boiler Machine --------------------------------------------------------99 Chapter-4 : Impact Of Internship------------------------------------------------------------------ 100 4.1 Knitting section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 101 4.2 Dyeing chemicals store section .------------------------------------------------------------------ 101 4.3 Dyeing lab section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 101 4.4 Dyeing section -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 101 4.5 Dyeing finishing section -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 102 4.6 CAD Section ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 102 4.7 Cutting Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 102 4.8 Printing & Embroidery Section ------------------------------------------------------------------ 102 4.9 Sewing Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103 4.10 Finishing Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103 4.11 Sample & Accesories Section ------------------------------------------------------------------- 103 4.12 Store section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 103 4.13 IE Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 104 4.14 QC Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 104 4.15 Admin and compliance Section ----------------------------------------------------------------- 104 4.16 HR Section ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 104 4.17 ETP Section --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 105 4.18 Utility Section ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 105 Chapter-5 : Conclusion ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 106 Conclusion ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 107
  • 13. 1 | P a g e © Daffodil International University CHAPTER-1 Executive Summary
  • 14. 2 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Executive Summary: Abanti Colour Tex Ltd is a young & dynamic composite Knit Garment Industry. Though incorporated in the year 1994 as a private limited company it came into existence in late December 1995. The mill being established at Shashongaon,Enayetnagar,Fatullah,Narayanganj, aspires to create a niche within a short period of time in the highly competitive global market of knit garments.Promoted by a team of young and dynamic visionaries, Abanti Colour Tex Ltd is a 100% export oriented composite knit garment industry.It possesses all the latest machineries from the European countries with few from the United States of America, Japan, & Taiwan. The entire plant has been installed & erected by foreign and local engineers jointly under the same roof. The total plant is located in an eighteen storied building in an area of more than 6,50,000 square feet (Approx). The factory is well equipped with high performance machinery and experienced technicians & a group of Smart executives are engaged here to ensure the Compliance management for quality and customer happiness. They can produce international standard fabric and garments of any quality and quantity. Abanti Colour Tex Ltd always keeps pace with latest technology of Textiles industry. The products of the unit have been classified in such a manner which shall meet the increased demand of the Europeans, USA etc. market fulfilling all the criteria required by the buyer.
  • 15. 3 | P a g e © Daffodil International University CHAPTER-2 Information about Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.
  • 16. 4 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 2.1 Introduction: By means of practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowedge in the practical field. For any technical education practical experience is almost equally important in association with the theoretical knowledge. The industrial attachment is the process which builds understanding skill and attitude of the poerformer, which improves his/her knowledge in boosting productivity and services. Academic education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, despite all these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with the technical support of modern machinery, skillness about various operation stages. It also provides us sufficiant practical knowledge about production management, produstivity evaluation, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of machinery, production planning and control, production cost analysis and their operation techniques etc. The above mentioned cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on industrial atmosphere & improve courage & inpiration to take self-responsibility. At Abanti Colour Tex Ltd, cutting-edge technologies ,erge seamlessly with human ingenuity and deep seat recommmitment to ensure excellence in every stage and area of their activities. The ACTL has the capability to offer a complete product range for the export textile markets. The goal of ACTL is become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothing from Bangladesh with highly advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local human resources.
  • 17. 5 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 2.2 Company Profile: Figure 2.2 : Front Side View of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Mission: Abanti Colour Tex Ltd committed to venture out into the changing and challenging global market as a leading enterprise in the world apparel industry by satisfying its valued customer. Vision:  To operate as one of the best sources of apparel in the global market.  To satisfy the valued customers, meeting their expectation by providing quality products and services on time and offering them the best value in terms of quality, price, environment and other ethical practices.  To meet compliance standards to assure an ideal work environment and obtain optimum level of productivity.  To maintain the technology command in the factory.  To promote development ensuring unprejudiced and equal opportunities for all.
  • 18. 6 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 2.3 General Information: Factory Name:ABANTI COLOUR TEX LTD Address:PLOT # S.A-646, Shashongaon, Enayet Nagar,Fatullah, Narayangonj, Bangladesh. Phone, Fax, E-Mail: PHONE: 880-2-7672526, 7671073,7672404 FAX: 880-2-7671057 E-MAIL: sunny@abanti.net; admin@abanti.net Year of Establishment: 1994 Type of Company: Private Limited Ownership: Crony Group Ownership Type: Private Number Of Building: 03 Buildings Number Of Stories:10 Stories 02 Building & 06 Stories One Building Nearest Airport: Hazrat Shahjalal International Air Port About 25 Km Factory Land Area:392674 Sq. Ft. Corporate Office: House # 365/4,Road # 06(West), Baridhara DOHS, Dhaka- 1206, Bangladesh. PHONE : 880-2-8415126-27 FAX: 880-2-8412560 E- MAIL: sunny@abanti.net
  • 19. 7 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Management: Chairman: Hosne Ara Nila Managing Director: A.H. Aslam Sunny General Manager: Nizam Uddin Mandal 2.4 Personnel Status: Total Employee: 6500 (Approximately) Female: 2600 Male: 3900 Production Development: 46 Sewing:2854 Cutting: 426 Finishing:837 Inspection:438 Sample,Pattern & Embroidery:703 Technical & Maintenance:60 Office Staff & Others:200 Managerial Offices:50 Dyeing, Knitting, Store:886
  • 20. 8 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 2.5 Production Information: Total Floor Area:392674 Sq. Ft. Total Production Employees:6000 Female: 2400 Male: 3600 Main Buyer: Mango (Spain), Kiabi (France), Mgb (United Kingdom), Tom-Tailor (Germany), H& M (Sweden), Okaidi (France)& So On. Market / Destinations:Europe Yearly Turn Over:70 Million Us $ Total Floor:19th Floor Total Line:58 Lines Total Production/Month: Knitting: 35 Ton/day Dyeing: 30 Ton/day Printing: 120000 pcs/day Embroidery: 110 Head Garments: 135000 pcs/day Annual Product Capacity:35,00,000 Dozen Item Of Products:All Kind Of Knit Item Q.A. Level Standerd:1.5 & 2.5 Fabric Affiliation:Yes Pattern Making Ability:Yes Product Lead Time:Maximum – 90 Days & Minimum - 30 Days
  • 21. 9 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Sample Room Facility:Yes In House Testing Lab: Yes In House Embroidery:Yes Capacity:40,000 Pcs. 2.6 Present Customers & Business: Kiabi 25% Of Business Mgb 20% Of Business Tom Tailor 20% Of Business H&M 12% Of Business Mangoo 13% Of Business Rewe / Okaidi-Obaibi / Gemo / Aldi / Others 10% Of Business Figure 2.6 : Main Buyers of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.
  • 22. 10 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 2.7 Product Information: Product Type % T-Shirt 50% Polo Shirt 25% Tank Top 10% Knitted Jacket 5% Legging 5% Others 5% 2.8 Equipments: List all in-house Machines for Knitting, Dyeing, Sewing & fabric inspection: Section Quantity Knitting 75 Set Dyeing 40 Set Sewing 1600 Set Cutting 30 Set Embroidery 187 Head Printing 22 Table Printing (Auto M/C) 2 Set
  • 23. 11 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 2.9 Concern of Crony Group: 1. Crony Apparels Ltd. 2. Crony Fashion Ltd. 3. Crony Knitwear Ltd. 4. Crony Tex Sweater Ltd. 5. S. S. Cotton Fabrics Ltd. 6. Crony Printing & Embroidery Ltd. 7. BD Packing Ltd 8. Crony Tex Sourcing Ltd. 2.10 Achievement & Certification: 1. ISO 9001:2008 (QMS) 2. BSCI 3. SEDEX 4. OE 100 & OE Blended 5. Oeko-Tex 6. International Star for Leadership in Quality Award (Gold Category) 7. Fair-trade 2.11 Supporting Department:  Personnel Administration  Procurement  Marketing  HRD  Finance &Accounting  MIS (Management Information System)  Work Study  Complience & Safety
  • 24. 12 | P a g e © Daffodil International University CHAPTER-3 Details of Attachment
  • 25. 13 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.1 Knitting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 75 set knitting machines available & average production is 35 ton/day.In this section, firstly, knitting manager gets a production sheet from the merchandiser as accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it. Then production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in which the production will be running. Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity, maintenance complexity, etc. Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length and grey GSM for required final GSM. Supervisor checks daily production regularity and make operator conscious about finishing tin due time. Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot. After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they deliver in dyeing section. As a short description of knitting it can be said that knitting is the most popular technique of fabric formation by inter-looping one or one set of yarns. Knitted fabric can be classified into two main categories such as warp knitted fabric and weft knitted fabric. Due to higher production, lower cost and easy installment demand of weft knitted fabric is increasing day by day. For the weft knitted fabric production, two main knitting machines are used here: (i) Flat Bed Knitting Machine & (ii) Circular Knitting Machine. On the basis of knitted stitches per minute against the capital cost of the machine, circular garment-length machines are generally more productive than flat bed machines for cut and sew knitwear. There are four weft knitted structure named single jersey, rib, interlock and purl. It is possible to produce all of these knit fabrics by circular machine after some changes. Circular machines are mainly single cylinder type for single jersey fabric, cylinder and dial type for rib and interlock fabrics and double cylinder types for purl fabrics. Single jersey is the simplest structure among four basic wefts knitted structure. Production of knitted structure is totally mathematical based & it depends on various factors. Machine gauge is one of the important factors among them. It is very important for the knitter to calculate the productivity of a machine in order to be able to schedule production and specify the delivery dates to the customer. 3.1.1 Division of Knitting Section: Knitting section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. is divided into two main section: (i) Fabric Knitting Section (ii) Fabric Inspection Section
  • 26. 14 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.1.2 Organogram of Knitting Section (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.) :
  • 27. 15 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.1.3 Knitting Section Layout Plan: Figure 3.1.3 : Knitting Unit-2 Layout
  • 28. 16 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.1.4 Specification of Knitting Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. : M/C No: 01-12 M/C No: 13 -16 M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Rib/Interlock Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24 Cylinder Dia: 42 Cylinder Dia: 30 Needle: 3168 M/C No : 17 M/C No : 18 M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Single Jersey Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24 Cylinder Dia: 26 Cylinder Dia: 36 Needle: 1944 Needle: 2712 M/C No : 19 M/C No : 20-21 M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24 Cylinder Dia: 24 Cylinder Dia: 30 M/C No : 22 M/C No : 23 M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece M/C Type: Single Jersey/Fleece Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24 Cylinder Dia: 25 Cylinder Dia: 20 Neddle:1872 M/C No : 24 M/C No : 25 M/C Type: Rib/Interlock M/C Type: Rib/Interlock Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan Cam Box: 82 Cam Box: 90 Cylinder Dia: 42 Cylinder Dia: 22
  • 29. 17 | P a g e © Daffodil International University M/C No : 26 M/C No : 27 M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Rib/Interlock Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan Gauge: 18 Cam Box: 82 Cylinder Dia: 40 Cylinder Dia: 20 Needle: 2356 M/C No : 28 M/C No : 29 M/C Type: Single Jersey M/C Type: Single Jersey Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan Gauge: 28 Gauge: 28 Cylinder Dia: 30 Cylinder Dia: 30 Needle: 2640 Needle: 2640 M/C No : 30 M/C No : 31 M/C Type: Rib/Interlock M/C Type: Rib/Interlock Brand Name: Jiunn Long Brand Name: Jiunn Long Origin: Taiwan Origin: Taiwan Gauge: 18 Gauge: 18 Cylinder Dia: 40 Cylinder Dia: 40 Needle: 2256 Needle: 2356 M/C No : 32 M/C No : 33 M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J) M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J) Brand Name: Precision Fukuhara Brand Name: Precision Fuku Origin: Japan Origin: Japan Gauge: 24 Gauge: 24 Feeder: 72 Feeders: 72 Cylinder Dia: 30, Cylinder Dia: 32 Needle: 2715 Needle: 2715 M/C No : 34 M/C No : 35 M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J) M/C Type: Auto Striper(S/J) Brand Name: Precision Fukuhara Brand Name: Precision Fukuhara Origin: Japan Origin: Japan Gauge: 16 Gauge: 16 Feeder: 72 Feeder: 72 Cylinder Dia: 30 Cylinder Dia:32
  • 30. 18 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.1.5 Types of Knitted Fabric Produce in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: 3.1.6 Types Of Yarn Used To Produced Knitted Fabrics:  Combed yarn  Carded yarn  CVC (80%C+20%P)  PC yarn (80%P+20%C)  Mellange yarn (85%C+15%Viscose)  Viscose  Polyester Single Jersey  Single Jersey  Single Jersey (Lycra)  Single Jersey (Slub) Pique  Single Pique  Double Pique  Pique (Auto Stripe) Interlock  Interlock  Interlock (Cotton)  Interlock (PC) Rib  1×1 Rib  2×2 Rib  2×1 Rib Fleece  Fleece  Terry Fleece Lacoste  Single Lacoste  Double Lacoste  Lacoste (Auto Stripe)
  • 31. 19 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.1.7 Different Fabric GSM & Their Yarn Count (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.): (i) S/J without lycra: Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count 110 – 120 40 S – 36 S 120 – 130 36 S – 32 S 130 – 140 32 S – 28 S 140 – 150 28 S 150 – 160 26 S 170 – 210 24 S (ii) Rib without lycra: Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count 180 – 190 36 S – 32 S 190 – 200 30 S 200 – 215 28 S 215 – 230 26 S 230 – 250 24 S 250 – 300 24 S (iii) Interlock without lycra: Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count 200 – 220 34 S 220 – 230 32 S 230 – 250 30 S 250 – 300 26 S (iv) Lacoste without lycra: Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count 180 – 190 30 S 190 – 210 28 S 210 – 230 26 S 230 – 250 26 S (v) 40D Lycra Rib & 40D Lycra S/J: Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count 180 – 190 34 S 190 – 210 32 S 210 – 220 30 S 220 – 240 28 S 240 – 250 26 S
  • 32. 20 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.1.8 Process Flow Chart of Knitting Section: The process sequences of knitting section which are followed in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. are given below:
  • 33. 21 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.1.9 Images of knitting machine and different parts (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd): Figure 3.1.9.1 : Single Jersey Circular Knitting M/C Figure 3.1.9.2 : Auto Striper M/C (Single Jersey) Figure 3.1.9.3 : Creel & Yarn Bobbin Figure 3.1.9.4 : Cam Box Figure 3.1.9.5 : Cylinder of Circular Knitting M/C Figure 3.1.9.6 : Needle
  • 34. 22 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.1.10 Production Parameter of Knitting Section:  Machine Diameter  Machine RPM (Revolution Per Minute)  No. Of Feeders In Use  Machine Gauge  Count Of Yarn  M/C Running Time  Machine Running Efficiency 3.1.11 Knitted Fabric Faults: Fault Description Causes Remedies Vertical stripes  Defective needles or sinkers.  Checking needle detectors.  Use of fabric fault detector. Dropped stitches  Yarn guide not properly set.  Defective needle latch.  Take-down too high.  Wrong yarn threading.  Precise yarn guide resetting.  Needle change.  Yarn consumption and couliering readjustment.  Take-down readjustment.  Dial position readjustment. Holes  Presence of knot in yarn.  Weak places in yarn.  Yarn tension too high .  Yarn too dry.  Yarn guide not properly set .  Use of flat knots.  Yarn regularly control.  Yarn consumption and couriering readjustment.  Precise yarn guide resetting.  Use of fabric fault detector.
  • 35. 23 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.1.12 List Of Equipment In Knitting Section For Quality Control:  Inspection M/C  Electronic balance  GSM cutter  Measuring tape  Scissors  Indication sticker Figure 3.1.12 : GSM Cutter
  • 36. 24 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.2 Fabric Inspection Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In the fabric inspection section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. all rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubs etc are recorded in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the four point system. Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four point system is followed to inspect the knitted fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Figure 3.2 : Fabric Inspection M/C 3.2.1 Four Point System For Knitting Fault Inspection: Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection at Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. : Knitting Fault Point Slub 1 Any hole 4 Needle/Sinker line 4 Needle breakage (upto 10) 4 Press off 4 Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 3″ in length 1 Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 6″ in length 2 Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 9″ in length 3 Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination above 9″ in length 4
  • 37. 25 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.2.2 List Of Knitting Faults That Are Detected By Fabric Inspection:  Hole  Drop stitch  Oil stain  Needle mark  Pin hole  Missing yarn  Sinker mark  Broken needle  Stripe  Slub  Thick & Thin place  Tight course  Wrong ply  Wrong design  Lycra out 3.2.3 Quality Classification Of Fabric Inspection Section: Following table shows the quality classification of four point grading system followed by inspection at Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: Grade – A Grade - B Grade - C Up to 20 21 – 28 Above 28 OK Ask Reject
  • 38. 26 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.2.4 Formula of Four Point Grading System For Fabric Inspection: Figure 3.2.4.1 : Four Point System & Shrinkage Equation Figure 3.2.4.2 : Knitted Fabric Inspection Sheet
  • 39. 27 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.3 Store Section for Dyeing Chemicals: Different types of chemicals are supplied to dyeing section from the store section. It is located in the ground floor of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Chemical types are mainly general chemicals, acid, cationic softener, nonionic (white), anti crease, wetting agent, fixing, buffer, soaping agent, sequestering agent, levelling agent, enzyme, stabilizer & brightener. 3.3.1 Different Types Of Chemical Available In Chemical Store Section: Following table shows various types of chemicals that are delivered to dyeing section from the store house of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. : Chemicals Type Chemicals Name General Chemicals Soda Ash Caustic H202 Hydrose Antifoam-39 Gluber Salt (anhydrous) Acid H2S04 Acetic Acid Formic Acid Oxalic Acid Invatex AC Cationic Softener Alcamine CWS Sun Soflon-21 Non-lonic (White) Sun Soflon-A300 Supamine FPs Anticrease Texport GL-500 Texport D-900 Ciba Fluid C Wetting Agent Invading DA Sun Morl CK-1 SandocleanPCLF Flxing Neofix R-250(FDR) Cibatex ECO Buffer Amonium Sulphide Cibatex AB-45 Soaping Agent Alcosper AD Lipotol PS-60 Sadopur RSK Sequestering Agent Invatex CS Neocrystal BGS Sirrix 2UD
  • 40. 28 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Levelling Agent Cibacel BDC Neocrystal 200B Drimagin E2R Lyoprint RG Setamal BL Croaks N Enzyme Bio-Polish EC Bio-Polish AL Tinozyme 44L Stabilizer Stabilizer Sifa NeoratePH-100 Brightener Siba White Uvitex BHV Uvitex BBT Naka white Leucopher BMB Figure 3.2 : Store Section for Dyeing Chemicals
  • 41. 29 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.3.2 Chemical Store Section Layout Plan: Figure 3.3.2: Layout of Dyeing Chemical Store
  • 42. 30 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.4 Dyeing Laboratory Section: In the laboratory section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. sample fabrics are dyed according to buyer’s requirements. Depending on lab dip development, sample dyeing and bulk production dyeing planning are done. It plays an important role in dyeing process. For fulfilling buyer satisfaction samples are prepared in the dyeing lab and sent to them through merchandiser for approval. Dyeing laboratory of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. is divided into two sections: i. Chemical Laboratory ii. Physical Laboratory 3.4.1 Main Operations Of Dyeing Laboratory:  To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.  To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectroflash.  To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.  Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A B C) 3.4.2 Colour Measurement Of Standard Sample In Laboratory Section: Color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory. In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Color measurement is done by two methods: (i) Manual Method & (ii) Instrumental Method. In manual method, the std. sample’s color is measured by comparing it with previously produced samples of different tri-chromatic color combination. The sample with which the color of the std. matched, that sample’s color recipe is being taken for shade matching .This method’s accuracy completely depends on the vision of the person related to it but person must be needed gather experience about color matching. In instrumental method, Spectrophotometer interfaced with a PC is used for shade matching. This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with required tri-chromatic colors within the tolerance limit of color difference. In this way, color measurement of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching.
  • 43. 31 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.4.3 Machineries Of Dyeing Laboratory: 3.4.3.1 Machines Of Chemical Lab: Figure 3.4.3.1 : Chemical Lab Section 1. Machine Name: Lab dip dyeing Machine Model:H-24-M Brand:NEWAVE LAB Equipment Co Ltd. Country: Taiwan 2. Machine Name: Eco Dyer Model:Eco-24 Brand:XIAMENRAPID CO LTD Country: China 3. Machine Name: Temparature Controller Rapid Machine Model:LT-24SF Country: China 4. Machine Name: Emergency Eye face Wash Model:4710 Brand:UDYOGI INDUSTRIES Country: India
  • 44. 32 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 5. Machine Name: Digital Electronic Balance Brand:Judever Scale Co Ltd. Country: Taiwan 6. Machine Name :Pipette Machine Model:E4-XLS Brand:RAININ 7. Machine Name: Electronic Precision Balance Model:KD-UBED-600 Capacity:600kg 8. Machine Name: Dryer Machine Brand: Siemens Model: q500 Capacity: 8kg Country: UAE 9. Machine Name: Miele Professional Washing Machine Model: pw6055 10. Machine Name: Electrolux Washing Machine Model: w55h 11. Machine Name: Quickwash Plus Brand: SDL Atlas Country : Germany 12. Machine Name: Washcator Model: M223CLS Brand: SDL Atlas Country : Germany 13. Machine Name: Electrolux Dryer Brand : Electrolux Laundry Systems AB Model: T5130 Country: Sweeden
  • 45. 33 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 14. Machine Name: Siemens Washing Machine Model: IQ-500 Capacity: 500kg 15. Machine Name: Light Box Model: Verivine 3.4.3.2 Machines Of Physical Lab: Figure 3.4.3.2 : Physical Lab Section 1. Machine Name:Martindal Abrasion Pilling Tester Model:M235 Brand:SDL Atlas Country: Germany 2. Machine Name:pH Tester Model:BP3001 Brand:SDL Atlas Figure 3.4.3.2.1 : pH Tester Country: Germany 3. Machine Name: Yarn Evenness tester Model:BP3001 Brand:SDL Atlas Country: Germany Figure 3.4.3.2.2 : Yarn Evenness Tester
  • 46. 34 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 4. Machine Name: Color Evenness to Rubbing Machine Name:Electronic Crock meter Model:M238B Brand:SDL Atlas Country: Germany 5. Machine Name: Suntest Cps+ (Color fastness to light) Figure 3.4.3.2.3 : Abrasion Pilling Tester Brand:SDL Atlas Country: Germany 6. Machine Name:Brusting Strength Tester Model:M229P Brand:SDL Atlas Country: Germany Figure 3.4.3.2.4 : Auto Pilling Tester 7. Machine Name: Wrap Reel Model:Y219P Brand:SDL Atlas Country: Germany 8. Machine Name: Incubator Brand:SDL Atlas Country: Germany 9. Machine Name: Yarn Twist Tester Brand:SDL Atlas Figure 3.4.3.2.5 : Yarn Twist Tester Country: Germany 10. Machine Name: ICI Pilling Box Model:MAG-C14F1 11. Machine Name:MAG Electronic Pilling Tester Brand:MAG Solvic Pvt Ltd. 12. Machine Name: Color Fastness to Washing Brand:SDL Atlas Country: Germany Figure 3.4.3.2.6 : Suntest Cps+ 13. Machine Name: Perspiration Tester Brand: SDL Atlas Country : Germany
  • 47. 35 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Figure 3.4.3.2.7 : Wrap Reel Tester Figure 3.4.3.2.8 : Brusting Strength Tester Figure 3.4.3.2.9 : Color Evenness to Rubbing Figure 3.4.3.2.10 : Incubator 3.4.4 Working Procedures of Dyeing Laboratory: Following Working Procedures are followed in the dyeing lab of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. : i. Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement. ii. Recipe prediction for sample dyeing. iii. Sample dyeing until matching with swatch card. iv. Fastness & other tests of the fabric or yarn are done here.
  • 48. 36 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.4.5 Different Test Methods Of Sample In Dyeing Laboratory: Different types of fastness tests of the dyed fabric are done in the laboratory section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Different types of method are followed for different types of tests. There are mainly two types of tests are done in dyeing laboratory section: 1. Physical Tests:  GSM Test  Shrinkage test  Pilling resistance etc. 2. Chemical Tests:  Fastness to washing  Fastness to rubbing etc. 3.4.6 Procedures Of Different Tests Method For Dyed Fabric: 3.4.6.1 Color Fastness To Wash Test: Required materials: 1. Sample size 40 x 100 mm 2. Multifiber at 40 x 100 mm 3. ECE detergent 4. Sodium Perborate 5. Distilled water 6. Normal cold water 7. Steel balls Procedure: 1. Cut sample & multifibere at 40 x 100 mm. 2. 50 ml ECE detergent & 50 ml Sodium perborate is taken with the sample. 3. The sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine. 4. Rinse the sample twice with cold water. 5. Dry at 600C by hanging or by flat iron press but temperature should not be more than 1500C. Report: Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey Scale & Staining Scale.
  • 49. 37 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.4.6.2 Color Fastness To Rubbing (Dry & Wet) Test: Sample: 1. Dyed fabric -15 cm x 5 cm 2. White Test Cloth -5 cm x 5 cm Procedure: 1. White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire. 2. The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds. And the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth and degree of staining is accessed. 3. For rubbing fastness of wet sample, the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and socked and squeeze. 4. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating and stag with Stainless steel wire and run ten times manually then assesses the attaining on to the rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of the sample cloth is accessed. Report: Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining of the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale. 3.4.6.3 Dimensional Stability Test (Shrinkage & Spirality): Sample: Two piece of 50 cm x 50 cm fabric is taken for test Procedure: Conditioning: Put the sample in the table for 4 hours for conditioning before Starting test. 1. Cut the sample 50 x 50 cm & benchmark should be 35 x 35 cm. 2. Stitch the Sample (3 sides) by over lock sewing machine. 3. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer’s choice. Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble dry except echo scouring is flat dry.
  • 50. 38 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.4.6.4 Pilling Test: 1. Pilling test is applicable for fabric with synthetic fabric. 2. This test is carried out in pilling box. 3. A Sample of 10 cm x 10 cm is sewn round a rubber tube. 4. Then the tube in the Pilling box and the door of it is closed. 5. Then the meter is set for 10600 cycles. 6. After the cycle is completed, the fabric is assessed by a special grey scale. The grey scale is provided Pilling box. 3.4.6.5 GSM Test: GSM is the most important factor. There is two GSM cutters in the dyeing lab. The Sample cut by this weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm.) from the balance is multiplied by 100 to get Value of GSM.
  • 51. 39 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.5 Dyeing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. : In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 40 set dyeing machines available & average production is 30 ton/day. In this section, dyeing operations are done which are used at various stages of production to add colour and intricacy to textiles and increase the product value. Dyeing operation chemically changes a substance so that the reflecting light appears. The raw materials used for dyeing production are: (i) Grey Fabric, (ii) Dyes & (iii) Chemicals. Here, firstly batching operation is done. After that pretreatment & dyeing are done. Finally, the dyed fabrics are sent to dyeing finishing section. Mainly single jersey, interlock, lacoste, fleece, terry, rib, lycra rib, 1 x 1 rib & others fabrics are dyed in this section. 3.5.1 Batching Section: This section is included in the dyeing section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. In this section according to batch no, color, width, style and construction the production planning for dyeing is made. Batching process is mainly done to get ready the fabric which should be dyed and process for a particular lot of a particular order. 3.5.1.1 Purpose Of Batching Section:  To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.  Turn the grey fabric if required.  To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria:  Order sheet  Dyeing shade (Color Or White, Light Or Dark)  M/C Capacity  M/C available  Type of fabric  Emergency  To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.  To keep Records for every previous dyeing. 3.5.1.2 Machines Available In Batching Section: Figure 3.5.1.2.1: Air Turning Machine-1 Figure 3.5.1.2.2: Air Turning Machine-2
  • 52. 40 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.5.1.2.1 Air Turning Machine-1: Model: DNAT-400 Company: Dong Nam Industrial Co. Ltd Manufacturing Country: Korea 3.5.1.2.2 Air Turning Machine-2: Model: DNAT-400 Company: Dong Nam Industrial Co. Ltd Manufacturing Country: Korea 3.5.1.2.3 Function Of Air Turning Machines: Alter the side of fabric for better dyeing and finishing. Then fabrics are stored in the trolley according to the nozzle capacity of production dyeing m/c. 3.5.2 Specification of Dyeing Machine Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: Machine No. Machine Name Manufacturing Coutry Capacity Yd/Min Nozzle No. M:L 1 AK Dyeing Machine Taiwan 180 kg 300 1 1:6 2 AK Dyeing Machine Taiwan 200 kg 300 1 1:7 3 AK Dyeing Machine Taiwan 300 kg 450 1 1:7 4 AK Dyeing Machine Taiwan 300 kg 450 1 1:7 5 AK Dyeing Machine Taiwan 1200 kg 300 6 1:7 6 Dilmener Machine Turkey 450 kg 400 2 1:10 7 Dilmener Machine Turkey 600 kg 400 2 1:6 8 Dilmener Machine Turkey 900 kg 350 3 1:6
  • 53. 41 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 9 AK Dyeing Machine Taiwan 400 kg 350 2 1:7 10 AK Dyeing Machine Taiwan 100 kg 350 1 1:7 11 AK Dyeing Machine Taiwan 1200 kg 350 6 1:7 12 AK Dyeing Machine Taiwan 1200 kg 350 6 1:7 13 AK Dyeing Machine Taiwan 800 kg 350 4 1:7 Figure 3.5.2.1 : Dilmener Dyeing Machine Figure 3.5.2.2 : AK Dyeing Machine
  • 54. 42 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.5.3 Different Parameters In Dyeing Production: 3.5.3.1 pH: 3.5.3.2 Temperature: 3.5.3.3 Time: For scouring and bleaching 60-90 mins For reactive dyeing 60-90 mins For disperse dyeing 60-90 mins During peroxide bleaching & scouring 9-11 During enzyme treatment 4.5-5 Before addition of leveling agent 6-6.5 Before addition of color softener 6-6.5 Before addition of white softener 4.5-5 Softener at stenter & de-watering 5.5-6 Silicon softener 5.5-6 Reactive dyeing 10.5-12 Disperse dyeing 4.5-5.5 For cotton scouring 95-110˚C For cotton cold wash 40-50˚C For cotton hot wash 70-80˚C For cotton acid wash 60-70˚C For cotton dyeing 80˚C ( For hot brand)/60˚C (For cold brand)
  • 55. 43 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.5.4 Dyeing Procedure Different Fabrics In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: 3.5.4.1 Dyeing Procedure Of Cotton Fabrics: i. Required amount of water was taken into the machine ii. The fabric was loaded and run for 5-10 minutes in normal temperature iii. Demineralization 60 0C were added at a time for 20 minutes iv. Caustic was added at normal temperature for 5 minutes v. Temperature increased at 600 C vi. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) was added for 5 minutes vii. Temperature increased at 950C and continue for 1 hour viii. Sample check ix. Cold wash at 750C for 5-10 minutes x. Hot wash at 900C for 5-10 minutes xi. Required amount of water was loaded xii. Enzyme was added xiii. Acetic acid was added xiv. Temperature increased at 550C for 60 minutes xv. Temperature increased at 800C for 5-10 minutes xvi. Cold wash at 400C and drain xvii. Leveling agent is added xviii. Temperature increased at 600C xix. Run time 10 minutes xx. Salt dosing xxi. Temperature increased at 600C xxii. Run for 10 min xxiii. Color addition xxiv. Dosing time 30 min xxv. Temperature increase at 600C for 5 min xxvi. Run for 10 min xxvii. Soda Ash xxviii. 600C for 40 min dosing xxix. Shade check xxx. Rinsing xxxi. Wash xxxii. Acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10 min xxxiii. 400C temperature xxxiv. Washing agent xxxv. Hot wash at 900C for 90 min xxxvi. Fixing agent xxxvii. 900C temperature for 10 min dosing xxxviii. Run time 10min xxxix. Cold wash xl. Drain xli. Softener xlii. 400C for 20 min xliii. Fabric unload
  • 56. 44 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.5.4.2 Dyeing Procedure Of Polyester/Cotton Blend Fabrics: i. Required amount of water filled ii. Fabric was loaded and run for 10 min iii. Demineralization 600C were added at a time for 20 minutes iv. Run for 10 min at 780 C v. Rinse for 10 min vi. Drain vii. Required amount of water filled viii. Leveling agent added ix. Check pH at 4.5 x. Dyes added for 15 min. xi. Temperature increased at 800C Run for 15 min xii. Temperature increase at 1300C xiii. Run for 45 min. xiv. Cooling at 800C xv. Shade check xvi. Rinsing for 15 min. xvii. Drain xviii. Required amount of water filled xix. Temperature increased at 600C xx. Run for 20 min. xxi. Add caustic soda xxii. Temperature increased at 700C xxiii. Add H2O2and temperature increased at 980C xxiv. For light color run 60 min, for deep color run 40 min xxv. Sample check xxvi. Check PH xxvii. Add enzyme at 600C temperature xxviii. Run 40 min xxix. Add leveling agent xxx. Add salt xxxi. Add color at same temperature xxxii. Run 10 min xxxiii. Add Soda and run 35 min xxxiv. Shade check xxxv. Hot wash xxxvi. Cold wash xxxvii. Softeners add and run 30 min xxxviii. Drain xxxix. Fabric upload
  • 57. 45 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.5.5 Fabric Faults And Their Remedies In Dyeing Production: 1.Crack, rope & crease marks: Causes:  Poor opening of the fabric rope  Shock cooling of synthetic material  Incorrect process procedure  Higher fabric speed Remedies:  Pre-Heat setting  Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature  Reducing the m/c load  Higher liquor ratio  Running at a slightly higher nozzle pressure 2.Fabric distortion and increase in width: Causes:  Too high material speed  Low liquor ratio Remedies:  By decreasing both nozzle pressure & winch speed 3.Pilling: Causes:  Too high mechanical stress on the surface of the fabric  Excess speed during processing  Excess foam formation in the dye bath Remedies:  By using of a suitable chemical lubricant  By using antifoaming agent  By turn reversing the Fabric before dyeing 4.Running Problem: (i) Ballooning: Causes:  Seam joining with too densely sewn Remedies:  By cutting a vertical slit of 10-15 cm in length for escaping the air
  • 58. 46 | P a g e © Daffodil International University (ii) Intensive foaming: Causes:  Pumping a mixture of air and water Remedies:  By using antifoaming agent 5.Uneven dyeing: Causes:  Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring, bleaching & mercerizing)  Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres  Quick addition of dyes and chemicals  Lack of control of dyeing m/c Remedies:  By ensuring even pretreatment  By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibres  By slow addition of dyes and chemicals  Proper controlling of dyeing m/c 6.Shade variation (Batch to batch): Batch to batch shade variation is common in exhaust dyeing which is not completely avoidable. Even though, to ensure a consistent batch to batch production of shade the following matters should be controlled carefully:  Use standard dyes and chemicals  Maintain the same liquor ratio  Follow the standard pretreatment procedure  Maintain the same dyeing cycle  Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the shade  Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in the process  The Ph, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily 7.Dye spot: Causes:  Improper mixing of dyestuff in the solution, in right amount of water, at the temperature Remedies:  Pass the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer when adding it to the chemical tank, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed
  • 59. 47 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 8.Roll to roll variation: Causes:  Poor migration property of dyes  Improper dyes solubility  Hardness of water  Faulty m/c speed, etc Remedies:  Use standard dyes and chemicals  Proper m/c speed  Use of soft water 9.Crease mark: Causes:  Poor opening of the fabric rope  Shock cooling of synthetic material  If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal  Due to high speed m/c running Remedies:  Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.  Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature  Reducing the m/c load  Higher liquor ratio 10.Softener mark: Causes:  Improper mixing of the softener  Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener  Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener Remedies:  Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed  Proper Mixing of the softener before addition  Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
  • 60. 48 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.5.6 Organogram of Dyeing Section: DGM Manager Asst. Manager Sr.Production Officer Production Officer Asst. Production Officer Officer Incharge Asst. Incharge (Finishing) Supervisor Data Entry Officer Store Officer Q.C Lab Technician Asst. Tec. A/C Snr.Officer (Lab) Trainee Chemist Trainee Officer Lab Officer Lab Assistant
  • 61. 49 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.5.7 Dyeing Section Layout Plan: Figure 3.5.7 : Dyeing Unit Layout
  • 62. 50 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.6 Dyeing Finishing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In the dyeing finishing section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., The final processing of the fabric is done to increase the natural properties or attractiveness before the fabric is cut into apparel.In dyeing finishing secction multiple processes are done that convert the fabric into a usable material. Dyeing finishing is more specifically any process that is performed after dyeing the fabric to improve the look, performance of the finished fabric. 3.6.1 Functions of Dyeing Finishing Section:  To improve the attractiveness and service ability of textile material  To increase life & durability of the textile material  To set dyes and chemicals in to the textile material  To meet up specific and use Figure 3.6 : Dyeing Finishing Section (Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.)
  • 63. 51 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.6.2 Working Sequence of Dyeing Finishing Section: Receive fabric from dyeing section Tube or Open fabric Squeezer Slitter (Tube fabric) Stenter Compactor Final inspection Packing or Rolling Fabric sent to delivery section 3.6.3 Machines Available in Dyeing Finishing Section: Sl No. Name of Machine Number of Machine 1 Slitting Machine 2 2 Stenter Machine 1 3 Open Compacting Machine 2 4 Squeezer Machine 1 5 Dryer 1 6 Calender Machine 1 7 Tube Tex 1 8 Tumble Dryer 1 Total 10
  • 64. 52 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.6.3.1 Slitting Machine - 1: Origin: Italy Manufacturing Company: Corino Comercial name: Super Slit Slitting Machine Working Cycle: Rope Squeezing Detwisting Slitting Squeezing Folding Delivery This machine is used for open finish. Figure 3.6.3.1 : Slitting Machine
  • 65. 53 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.6.3.2 Slitting Machine - 2: Origin: Italy Manufacturing Company: Bianco Slitting Machine Working Cycle: Feed roller Centering roller Gear box Dancing roller Free roller Spandle roller Delivery 3.6.3.3 Stenter Machine: Origin: Germany Manufacturing Company: Bruckner Stenter Machine Working Cycle: Squeezing Washing with softener Twisting /Spirality Stripe correction Drying
  • 66. 54 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Figure 3.6.3.3 : Stenter Machine 3.6.3.4 Open Compacting Machine - 1: Origin:Italy Manufacturing Company: Lafer Spa Open Compacting Machine Working Cycle: Making Fabric flat Dia control Steaming Ironing GSM control Finishing Figure 3.6.3.4 : Open Compacting Machine
  • 67. 55 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.6.3.5 Open Compacting Machine - 2: Origin:Italy Manufacturing Company: Ferraro This machine is consisted of three zones: 1.Compactor zone 2.Surprizing zone 3.Standard zone 3.6.3.6 Squeezer Machine: Origin:Italy Manufacturing Company :Corino This machine is used for tube finish. 3.6.3.7 Dryer: Origin:Switzerland Manufacturing Company: Santex Dryer Machine Working Cycle: Washing with cold water Softener Over Fit roller Dia setting Conveyor Drying
  • 68. 56 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Figure 3.6.3.7 : Santex Machine 3.6.3.8 Calender Machine: Comercial Name :Soft calender machine Origin:Korea Manufacturing Company: Dongnam Industrial Co. Ltd. Model:DNC-1400 Figure 3.6.3.8 : Soft Calender Machine
  • 69. 57 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.6.3.9 Tube Tex: Origin: USA Manufacturing Company: American Textile Manufacturing Association Tube Tex Machine Working Cycle: Metal detector Oven feed Dia control Steam Feed roller Retard roller Shrinkage ,GSM and Dia control Folding Figure 3.6.3.9 : Tube Tex
  • 70. 58 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.6.3.10 Tumble Dryer: Origin: Taiwan Manufacturing Company: Machinery Works Co Ltd. Capacity: 55kg Temprature: Max 110° This machine is used for controling GSM and shrinkage of fabric. 3.6.4 Dyeing Finishing Section Layout Plan: Figure 3.6.4 : Dyeing Finishing Unit Layout
  • 71. 59 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.6.5 Fabric Inspection in Dyeing Finishing Section: 3.6.5.1 Fabric Inspection Steps: Following dyeing finishing inspection steps are followed in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: 1st step - Shade Check 2nd step - Running Shade Check 3rd step - Dia Check 4th step – Faults & GSM Check 3.6.5.2 Finished Fabric Faults Found in Inspection: Following defects are found in the dyeing finishing inspection:  Uneven shade  Oil spot  Naps  Crease mark  Machine Stoppage mark  Listing  Line mark  Pick missing  Double yarn  Dead cotton  Bowing  Fly yarn contamination
  • 72. 60 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.7 CAD Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., marker making is done in the CAD (Computer-Aided Design) section. The time consuming and cumbersome process of textile designing has been made easier by CAD section. From this section pattern paper & marker paper are delivered to cutting section. Here “Optitex PDS” software is used for pattern & marker making. For marker making efficiency is kept between 80-85%. Main aims of this section are minimizing the fabric wastage during cutting & maintaining accurate fabric cutting. 3.7.1 Machines available in the CAD section: 1. Morgan Leonardo 220 – Ultra Wide Printer Marker Dia: 182-210 cm 2. Ioline Marker Dia: 182 cm 3. Algotex Wave Jet 180 Marker Dia: 182-210 cm 4. Pattern Cutter Brand: Winda Origin: China 3.7.2 Awareness During Marker Making in CAD Section:  Pattern alignment  Pattern direction  Parts missing  Mismatched checked/stripes  Over lapping  Marker too wide than fabric  Poor Or double line marking  When pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp in a knit fabric where pattern pieces are laid across the layer’s the line is kept parallel to course
  • 73. 61 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.7.3 Organogram of CAD Section: Manager Snr. Officer CAD Officer Asst.Officer Trainee Officer 3.7.4 Process Sequence of CAD Section: Artwork & Spec sheet form merchandiser Making pattern Computer Processing order art work Marker making as per color art work Manual working for waist loop Discuss with fabric department Marker Delivery to cutting section
  • 74. 62 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.8 Cutting Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., cutting section is the one which plays a key role in production. It is the beginning of the garments production. So cutting section has the most efficient professionals working in it. There are 30 set cutting machines and 6 cutting tables available in this section. Fabric cutting means to cut out the garment piece of the lays from of fabric with the help of cutting template or marker. It is the previous step of sewing. This section works as fast as possible because the more the unloading of bundles can take place the more the production can take place. In this section spreading, laying, marking, cutting, numbering, bundling and embellishment of the fabric are done. 3.8.1 Objectives of Cutting Section:  To get the accurate shape of the components of garments.  To make the garments parts ready for sewing.  Prepare fabrics for RMG (Ready Made Garment).  Cut fabrics according to design and pattern.  Prepare fabrics for sewing and also for printing and embroidery. 3.8.2 Flow Chart of Cutting Section: Dyeing management approval Cutting management approval Fabric spreading on table Placing the marker paper (Pattern paper & Chalk is used for yarn dyed fabric) Cutting by machine man Sticker matching Bundling Cut components check Deliver into sewing section
  • 75. 63 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.8.3 Machines Available in Cutting Section (Unit-2): Sl No. Name of Machine Number of Machine 1 Hand cutting machine 18 2 Cutting auto spreader lay machine 2 3 Stickering machine 8 4 Bend knife machine 2 Total 30 3.8.3.1 Hand Cutting Machine: Manufacturer: KM Mack Country: Japan Speed: 3000/3600m Frequency: 50/60Hz Volt: 220v Length: 8-10 inch Blade: Straight Bar Blade Figure 3.8.3.1 : Hand Cutting Machine
  • 76. 64 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.8.3.1.1 Features of Hand Cutting Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:  Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays.  Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric.  High cutting speed.  Sharp and heavy corners can be cut.  Blade could be sharpened by attached grinding facilities.  Blade height 10 to 33cm.  Blade stroke 2.5cm to 4.5cm. 3.8.3.2 Cutting Auto Spreader Lay Machine: Manufacturer: Kuris Country: Germany Figure 3.8.3.2 : Auto Spreader Lay Machine 3.8.3.3 Stickering Machine: Stickers are attached to fabric after cutting by this machine. 3.8.3.4 Bend Knife Machine: Three types of interlining are done by this machine: (i) Open interlining, (ii) Mesh interlining, & (iii) Normal interlining
  • 77. 65 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.8.4 Organogram of Cutting Section: Snr. Manager Manager Snr.Incharge In-Charge Q.C. In-Charge Delivery Incharge Supervisor Asst. Supervisor Officer Quality Controller L.Q.C Cutting Machine Man Marker Man Asst. Spreader Man 3.8.5 Information Of Cutting Section (Unit-2): Total Workers 180 No. Of Table 6 No. Of Total Machine 30 No. Of Pattern Master 5 Fabric Lay Height Standard Max 150 Lay (Cotton/Polyester) Daily Production 45000 pieces
  • 78. 66 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.8.5 Cutting Section Layout Plan: Figure 3.8.5 : Cutting Unit-2 Layout
  • 79. 67 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.9 Printing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 22 printing tables available & average production is 120000 pcs/day. In this section, firstly artwork is made & design is created. After that design is exposed & then it is checked by sample department. Lastly, if the created design is approved then it is applied in the final production. 3.9.1 Types of Machine Available in Printing Section:  Digital Exposure Machine  Manual Exposure Machine  Heat Press Machine  Airtac GFR  Curing Machine  Auto Printing Machine  Laser Cutting Machine 3.9.2 Types of Printing Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.:  Pigment printing  Rubber printing  Discharge printing  High density printing  Crack printing  Pup Printing  Foil printing  Water printing  Plastic printing Figure 3.9.1 : Auto Printing Machine (Diamond Red Chili – 12 Head)
  • 80. 68 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.9.3 Curing Temperature for Different Type of Printings: Type of Printing Temp Pigment printing 160-1700 C Rubber printing 150-1700 C Discharge printing 2000 C High density printing 1800 C 3.9.4 Screen Preparation in Printing Section: Mesh fabric tight with frame Applied chemical texture on the mesh & dried 8 min in air Placed design paper under the mesh Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4% Remove the colored texture from the design are by water spraying 3.9.5 Process Sequence of Printing Section: Count the garments part Screen preparation Printing paste preparation Applied garments part on the printing bed gum in the marked portion Printing the garments part by using screen Drying the printing portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow Curing the printing portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 1600 -1800 c Inspection the quality
  • 81. 69 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.9.6 Foil Printing Process: Temp – 15000 C Pressure – 100 psi Time – 6 sec Pressing – 2 times Add adhesive on the require design by screen Place the fabric part on the pressing m/c Pressing the upper part of the m/c at 100 psi temp 1000 C for 6 sec 3.9.7 Organogram of Printing Section: Snr. Manager Manager Snr.Incharge In-Charge Asst. In-Charge Designer Printing Master Asst. Master Supervisor Sr.Q.C Lab Technician L.Q.C Quality Controller
  • 82. 70 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.9.8 Printing Section Layout Plan: Figure 3.9.8 : Printing Unit Layout (1st Floor)
  • 83. 71 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.10 Embroidery Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 187 heads of embroidery available. Int this section, firstly sample from buyer is received. Then it is scanned and imported to computer softwatre “Adobe Photoshop”. Then analysis & design of required embroidery are done. After required adjustment & correction from buyer it is approved for bulk production. 3.10.1 Embroidery Stitching Types: Following embroidery stitches are used in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: i Run stitch ii Motif stitch iii Tatami stitch iv Shirting stitch 3.10.2 Specification of Embroidery Machine: Brand Name: Tajima Origin: Japan No Of Head: 20 No Of Needle Per Head: 9 Total No. Of Embroidery Head: 187 Figure 3.10.2 : Embroidery Machine
  • 84. 72 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.10.3 Process Sequence of Embroidery Section: Art Work Or Sample From Buyer Scan & Imported To “Adobe Photoshop” Analysis Design Demanded Type Of Embroidery Comment / Adjustment & Corrrection Buyer Approval Bulk Production 3.10.4 Defects Found in Embroidery Section:  Broken stitch  Out stitch  Embroidery slinked  Double stitch  Needle hole  Raw edge  False stitch  Loose thread  Needle mark  Bobbin thread loose  Frame spot mark  Thread mistake  Wrong design
  • 85. 73 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.10.5 Organogram of Embroidery Section: In-Charge Asst. In-Charge Designer Supervisor Sr.Q.C Quality Controller L.Q.C 3.10.6 Embroidery Section Layout Plan: Figure 3.10.6 : Embroidery Unit Layout (3rd Floor)
  • 86. 74 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.11 Sewing & Finishing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., there are 1600 set sewing machines available & average garments production is 135000 pcs/day.In this section, fabric is joined by the use of needle and thread. Sewing & Finishing section is the biggest section in the industry. The main purpose of sewing is to produce a line along which two or more fabrics are joined by sewing, fusion, gluing, stapling or alternative method. After completing sewing garments are sent to inspection section & then to finishing section. In the finishing section ironing, measurement check, quality inspection, size separate, hang tagging, folding, poly packing & final inspection are done. Then garments are sent to packing section. 3.11.1 Machine Details In Sewing Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: Machine Name Brand Name Origin No. Of Thread Used In M/C Total Quantity Plain Machine BROTHER China 2 Thread 375 Flat Lock Cylinder Bed Machine PEGASUS Japan 5 Thread 525 Flat Lock Flat Bed Machine PEGASUS Japan 5 Thread Over Lock Machine PEGASUS Japan 4 Thread 320BROTHER China 4 Thread PEGASUS Japan 5 Thread Back Tape Machine PEGASUS Japan 4 Thread 85 Button Attach Machine BROTHER China 1 Thread 50 Button Hole Machine BROTHER China 2 Thread 60 Snap Button Attach Machine PEGASUS Japan 80 Rib Cutter Machine JUKI Japan 4 Thread 25 Flat seam machine PEGASUS Japan 50 Bar Tack Machine PEGASUS China 50 Total Machine 1620
  • 87. 75 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.11.2 Pictures of Sewing Machines Available in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: Figure 3.11.2.1: Overlock Machine Figure 3.11.2.2: Plain Machine Figure 3.11.2.3: Flat Lock Flat Bed Machine
  • 88. 76 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Figure 3.11.2.4: Flat Lock Cylinder Bed Machine Figure 3.11.2.5: Back Tape Machine Figure 3.11.2.6: Rib Cutter Machine Figure 3.11.2.7: Button Hole Machine
  • 89. 77 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Figure 3.11.2.8: Button Attach Machine Figure 3.11.2.9: Bar Tack Machine Figure 3.11.2.10: Snap Button Attach Machine Figure 3.11.2.11: Flat Seam Machine
  • 90. 78 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.11.3 Machine Layout Of Grils T- Shirt in Sewing Section: BUYER KIABI STYLE NO. SDBS17( HGTYE) ORDER NO. 344820 ITEM GRILS T- SHIRT WORK PLACE UNIT-02, SEW-01 LINE-1 ORDER QTY 17643 PCS INPUT DATE 15/2/2017 REPORTING DATE 16/2/2017 LINE TARGET 100 OP. NO. PROCESS NAME M/C SMV TGT/HR USED M/C 1 FRONT/ BACK PART MATCH HELP 0.24 250 1 2 SHOULDER JOIN O/L 0.21 286 1 3 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.25 240 1 4 PLACKET PASTING IRON I/M 0.44 273 2 5 PLACKET SERVICING O/L 0.28 214 1 6 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.24 250 1 7 PLACKET TOP STITCH S/N 0.6 200 2 8 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.4 150 1 9 NECK PIPING F/L 0.26 231 1 10 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.22 273 1 11 PIPING NOSE TACK S/N 0.28 214 1 12 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.2 300 1 13 MAIN + SIZE LABEL SEWING S/N 0.23 261 1 14 MAIN +SIZE LABEL JOIN S/N 0.24 250 1 15 SLEEVE SERVICING O/L 0.41 146 1 16 SLEEVE TOP STITCH S/N 0.59 203 2 17 GRATHRING CUT MARK HELP 0.37 162 1 18 SLEEVE GRATHRING S/N 0.66 182 2 19 SLEEVE TACK WITH BODY S/N 0.58 310 3 20 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.36 167 1
  • 91. 79 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 21 SLEEVE JOIN O/L 0.70 171 2 22 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.43 140 1 23 SIDE CLOSE O/L 0.64 188 2 24 BOTTOM SCISSORING HELP 0.39 154 1 25 BOTTOM PIPING F/L 0.83 217 3 26 THREAD CUT+STICKER REMOVE HELP 0.51 118 1 27 SIDE SLIT CROSS TACK S/N 0.62 194 2 28 BOTTOM PIPING TOP STITCH S/N 1.88 128 4 29 ARMHOLE TOP STITCH S/N 0.70 171 2 30 SLIT BARTACK B/T 0.51 118 1 MIN MAX SMV 14.27 LINE TARGET 32 151 M/O SMV 10.66 75% HELPER SMV 3.61 25% Machine Name Machine Quantity S/N M/C 20 O/L MC 7 F/L M/C 4 B/H M/C 0 B/S M/C 0 B/T M/C 1 S/B M/C 0 E/H M/C 0 KANSAI 0 I/M 2 HELP 11 TOTAL MACHINE 34 TOTAL MANPOWER 45
  • 92. 80 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.11.4 Needle Policy of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: 3.11.4.1 Broken Needle Policy: 1. If any needle breaks down in the time of work then broken part and needle change from needle man with a new needle. 2. If worker do not find out the broken part then worker inform to supervisor. 3. If worker do not find out broke part then the garment will be reject. Because that garment can be contain this broken part. 3.11.4.2 Plan Of Needle Policy: 1. Worker should be careful in time of sewing. 2. Needle selection should be correct. 3. Correct fabric tension and thread tension. 4. Proper needle setting in sewing machine. 3.11.5 Process Sequence of Sewing Section: Receive bundle of various parts from cutting section Place it in the end of the line to a helper Open the bundle Through it to sewing Sewing Finished sewing Inspection Send to finishing section
  • 93. 81 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.11.6 Faults Found in Sewing Section:  Open seam  Raw material/ shades/ wrong side  Oil or Dirt stains  Holes in material  Measurement out of range  Wrong size label  Missing trim  Wrong trim  Uneven stitch line or parts  Loose / skip stitches  Uncut thread  SPI not correct  Uneven shoulder length  Rib shading  Stripe Mismatch  Irregular bottom hem  Wrong Placket shape  Poor joints  Raw edges  Seam Puckering  Wrong button/Hole placement  Uneven sleeve length  Back neck tape uneven 3.11.7 QC in Sewing Section:  Inspector will check each & every process at the work station and report.  Defect and measurement both should be checked in the line.  If the inspector finds a defective unit, corrective action should be taken.  The concern production supervisors should rectify defective unit with the same operator.  Proper attachment of machine.  Transportation section to section or station to station  Proper maintenance, cleanliness.
  • 94. 82 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.11.8 Information Of Finishing Section: No. of Iron table 50 No. of inspection table 50 No. of final inspection table 15 No. of folding and packing table 30 No. of Hang tag , Color and Shade checking table 25 3.11.9 Process Sequence Of Finishing Section: Iron table Check table Measurement table Getup area 4 point inspection Size wise separation Hand tag Folding table Poly table Send to packing section
  • 95. 83 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.11.10 Sewing & Finishing Section Layout Plan: Figure 3.11.10 Sewing & Finishing Unit-2 Layout
  • 96. 84 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.12 Packing Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In this section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., generally there are three types of packing are done: 1. Assort packing: Different garments size ratio in one blister. 2. Solid packing: Same garments size in one poly pack. 3. Mixed packing: This is needed if there are extra garments pieces left. 3.12.1 Process Sequence Of Packing Section: Receive garments from finishing section Folding & insert a board, tissue Poly packing Cartooning Applied costape on the carton pack Packing completed Shipment 3.12.2 Types Of Different Carton Used in Packing Section: 1. Depend On Stitching:  Stitching Carton  Metal Free Carton
  • 97. 85 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 2. Depend On Ply:  3 Ply Carton  5 Ply Carton  7 Ply Carton 3. Depend On Size:  Master Carton  Inner Carton 3.13 QC Sections of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: Following QC sections are available in the industry: 3.13.1 H&M QC Section: Three types of inspection are done: (i) Trial inspection (It is done before bulk production) (ii) Inline inspection (It is done during production) (iii) Final inspection (It is done after production) 3.13.1.1 Defects That Are Checked In H&M QC: (i) Critical defect: Needle issue, Button pull test, Nickel test, Bad smell, Insect etc. (ii) Major defect: Oil spot, Broken stitch, Skip stitch, Holes, Open seam, Shade difference, Loose thread etc. (iii) Minor defect: Uneven shape, Poor shade, Dirty spot etc. [3 minor=1 major] 3.13.1.2 Machines That Are Available In H&M QC: 1. Pull Test Machine: Button strength test at 90N 2. Moisture Tester: Moisture of fabric should be kept between 50-65°C 3. Light Meter: For matching shade, 1500 lux is the requirement. 3.13.1.3 Dark Room Inspection In H&M QC: Garment is inspected in three kinds of light: (i) Bright light (ii) Low light (iii) UV light
  • 98. 86 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Figure 3.13.1.2 : Pull Test Machine
  • 99. 87 | P a g e © Daffodil International University Figure 3.13.1 : RQS System of H&M QC
  • 100. 88 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.13.2 MGB QC Section: Three types of inspection are done in MGB QC section. They are: (i) Inline inspection (By third party) (ii) Pre-final inspection (iii) Final inspection 3.14 Industrial Engineering Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: This section is concerned with the design, improvement and installation of integrated system of man, machine and equipment drawing upon specialized knowledge and skill in the technical, economics and human sciences, either with the principles or methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results to be obtained from such system. 3.14.1 Discussions of IE Section: 1. SMV (Standard Minute Value) 2. Time study 3. Capacity study 4. Follow up observation study 5. Garments breakdown 6. Machine layout 7. Men-Machine study 8. Line target setup 9. Process wise target 10. Line efficiency 11. Floor efficiency 12. Sewing forecast 13. Finishing forecast 14. Input-Output analyze (WIP- Work In Process) 15. Hourly production check 16. Planning 17. Operator skill report & grade wise salary fix 18. Re-skill test 19. Skill matrix 20. Overtime control 21. Thread consumption
  • 101. 89 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 22. Fabric consumption 23. CM costing 24. Method study 25. Loss time count etc. 3.14.2 Functions of IE Section:  Work measurement of sewing operations, cutting room jobs and finishing jobs  Setting standard time for sewing operations and manual operations  Style analysis and conducting research and development (R&D) of the styles  Improving method of work and design workstation  Production planning and factory capacity determination  Work aids development  Work station designing and machine layout planning  Labor cost estimation  Performance measuring of workers  Training of workers (sewing operators)  Designing incentive scheme and calculating incentive for sewing operators  Setting line production target of the sewing lines and chasing production from line supervisors and operators  Application of lean tools  Assist line supervisors by preparing resource requirement plan (machines and equipment and manpower), line setting and line balancing etc.  Assist production managers in target planning and production planning,  Help merchandiser and marketing personnel by providing labor cost and production lead time,  Help HR department by providing operator performance level, and help in operator recruitment  Prepare MIS reports and show management team product status on daily basis and alert management team if their attention is needed  Set up standards operating procedures for new tasks, new process required for ever changing fashion products
  • 102. 90 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.14.3 Organogram of IE Section: DGM Snr. Manager Manager Asst. Manager Snr. Officer Officer Trainee Officer 3.15 Design & Product Development Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: Followings are the basic works of this section: (i) Offering seasonal garments. Mainly for Summer/Winter/Autumn/Spring (ii) Material proposal (iii) Assist the designer of buyer (iv) Improve the design of garments 3.16 Merchandising Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., merchandising section mediates marketing and production departments. It is the methods, practices, and operations used to promote and sustain certain categories of commercial activity. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to finish. A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to the buyers being handled.
  • 103. 91 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.16.1 Process Flow Chart Of Merchandising Section: Merchandiser Negotiation with buyer & collect order Costing Sample making Get approval & placement of order Collect accessories for production Line balancing Production monitoring Inspection Final Inspection Document preparation for banking Shipment
  • 104. 92 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.16.2 Responsibilities Of A Merchandiser:  Product Development  Market and product Analysis  Selling the concept  Booking orders  Confirming Deliveries  Designing and Sampling  Costing  Raw Material  Flow Monitoring  Production Follow Ups  Payments Follows  Internal & external communication,  Sampling  Lab dips  Accessories & trims  Preparing internal order sheets  Preparing purchase orders  Advising and assisting production,  Advising quality department about quality level  Mediating production and quality departments  Giving shipping instructions and following shipping  Helping documentation department  Taking responsibility for inspections and  Following up the shipment 3.16.3 Organogram of Merchandising Section: Manager Office Asst. Sr. Merchandiser Merchandiser Trainee Merchandiser
  • 105. 93 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.17 HR Section Of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: Human resources are the set of individuals who make up the workforce of an organization, business sector, or economy. In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., Human Resource section is divided into two sections: 3.17.1 Recruiment: (i) Manpower budgeting & organogram planning (ii) Advertisement in online (iii) Motivation & Training (iv) Follow up (v) Planning for workers and staffs. 3.17.2 Payroll: (i) Absent or present count (ii) Salary related works 3.17.3 Functions of Human Resource Section:  Job analysis and job description  Determining wages and salaries  Recruitment and selection  Performance appraisal  Training and development  Employee welfare and motivation  Addressing employees grievances  Labor management relations  Implementing organizational policies  Promotions  Position classification and grading  Salary determination  Performance appraisal review and processing  Awards review and processing. 3.18 Admin Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., administrative staff manages corporate description such as human resources, finance and accounting, billing, health and safety, and environmental compliance. They do order process, preparing invoices, conducting marketing and sales, managing human resources etc.
  • 106. 94 | P a g e © Daffodil International University This section discusses about the following works:  Daily attendance report by attendance machine  Weekly attendance report by attendance machine  Monthly attendance report by attendance machine  ID card prepare  Operators personal file prepare  Daily machine inventory  Daily man power report  Daily HR history position  Lefty procedure follow up  Lefty letter issue  Lefty report  Regain report  Attendance bonus report  Over time check report  Old id card repaired  Attendance missing report 3.19 Compliance Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: Abanti Colour Tex Ltd., compliance simply means conformity with environmental laws and regulations. This section uses various methods to achieve compliance, including compliance assistance, compliance monitoring and compliance incentives. This section discusses about the following works:  No electric supply in the store room.  Loading area security.  Safety side completely audits.  Follow up the CAD man training.  Follow up the CAD man personal computer password.  High & weight is limited in the cutting section.  Metal gloves & musk is compulsory in cutting section.  RQS report follows up.  Floor inventory follow up.  Operation placement check in sewing section.  Machine maintain report follow up.  Needle policy report follows up.  Toilet clean check.  Water check report.  Spot removing area follows up.  Metal detector machine check.  Follow up pest control policy.  Grading report check.  HR personal file check.  Follow up regain report.  Finally follow up all rules and regulation.
  • 107. 95 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.20 ETP Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd.: In this section color particles & chemicals that are presented in the water discharged from various wet processing stages are removed. Effluent treatment plant is a process to convert wastewater which is water no longer needed or suitable for its most recent use into an effluent that can be either returned to the water cycle with minimal environmental issues or reused. In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. Biological ETP (Biochemical) is used. Here, Bacteria is used to treat the contaminated water and chemicals are used to control the process as well as the growth of bacteria. 3.20.1 Process Sequence of ETP Section: Raw effluent Inlet Equalization tank Flocculation tank Dozing tank (Lime,FeSo4 and Polymer) Lamella clariefier pH correction tank Bio tower Aeration tank (Urea+DAP) Lamella clariefier Filter feed pump Treated water tank
  • 108. 96 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.20.2 Controlling Parameters of ETP Section: The characteristics of waste water assumed at Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. are as follows: pH = 11 BOD = 300 mg/L COD = 200 mg/L Suspended Solid (SS) = 200 mg/L Color = Dark Reddish Final treated quality of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. discharge is: pH = 6-9 (disposable limit 6-9) BOD = 37 mg/ L (disposable limit 50 mg/L) COD = 147 mg / L (disposable limit 200 mg/L) Suspended Solid = 51 mg/L (disposable limit 150 mg/L) Color = Color Less 3.20.3 Effluent Treatment Plant Section Layout Plan: Figure 3.20.3 : ETP Layout
  • 109. 97 | P a g e © Daffodil International University 3.21 Utility Section of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd: In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. following utility services are available: i. Water ii. Electricity iii. Steam iv. Gas v. Compress air 3.21.1 Boiler: Steam generator or boiler is usually a closed vessel made of steel. There is two boilers in Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. 3.21.1.1 Function of Boiler: Boiler function is to the heat produced by the combustion of fuel (Gas) to water and ultimately to generator steam. The steam produced may be supplied in wet processing section for: 1. Heating Cylinder Dryer 2. Steaming During Dyeing 3.21.1.2 Classification Of Boiler: 1. Fire Tube Boiler 2. Water Tube Boiler