This document provides information on different types of velvet fabrics, including cotton velvet, silk velvet, velveteen, velour, corduroy, crinkle velvet, panne velvet, embossed velvet, cut velvet, and plush velvet. For each type of velvet, it describes the material composition, pile length, weight, and recommended uses. It also provides guidance on cutting, seaming, threading, pressing and other technical details for working with each velvet fabric.
2. COTTON VELVET
A pile-weave fabric, made by using an additional yarn
that is then cut to produce the pile. Difficult to handle
and can be easily damaged if seams have to be
unpicked.
Cutting out: use a nap layout with the pile brushing
up from hem to neck, to give depth of colour
Seams: plain, stitched using a walking foot (stitch all
seams from
hem to neck) and neatened with serger or zigzag stitch
Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
Needle: machine size 9-11; milliner’s for hand sewing
Pressing: only if you have to; use a velvet board, a bit
of steam, toe of iron, and silk organza cloth
Use for: jackets, coats
3. SILK VELVET
This is a very soft velvet with a great drape. It is very
lightweight when compared to the cotton velvet but very
expensive.
Cutting out: Mark velvet on the backside with
chalk. Hand basting with a contrasting thread can work in
place of chalk markings on the front of the fabric.
Always cut velvet in single layer .
Seams: plain seam, bias seam, stitch & pink
Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
Needle: machine size 9-11; milliner’s for hand sewing
Pressing: only if you have to; use a velvet board, a bit of
steam, toe of iron, and silk organza cloth
Use for: jackets, coats
4. VELVETEEN
Velveteen is usually made from cotton fabric and has a
rather thicker pile of 3 mm to give a more luxurious and
deep feel. It is also heavy and can be used for upholstery as
well as curtains.
Cutting out: Mark velvet on the backside with chalk. Hand
basting with a contrasting thread can work in place of chalk
markings on the front of the fabric. Always cut velvet in
single layer .
Seams: plain seam, bias seam, stitch & pink
Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
Needle: machine size 9-11 ballpoint; milliner’s for hand
sewing
Pressing: only if you have to; use a velvet board, a bit of
steam, toe of iron, and silk organza cloth
Use for: jackets, coats
5. VELOUR
Velour is a plush, knitted fabric. It is usually made from cotton, but can also be made from synthetic
materials such as polyester.
Cutting out: use a nap layout with the pile brushing up from hem to neck, to give depth of colour
Seams:plain, stitched using a walking foot (stitch all seams from
hem to neck) and neatened with serger or zigzag stitch
Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
Needle: machine size 9-11; milliner’s for hand sewing
Pressing: only if you have to; use a velvet board, a bit of steam, toe of iron, and silk organza cloth
Use for: clothing, footwear and upholstery
6. CORDUROY
A soft pile fabric with distinctive stripes (known as wales or
ribs) woven into it. The name depends on the size of the ribs:
baby or pin cord has extremely fine ribs; needle cord has
slightly thicker ribs; corduroy has 10–12 ribs per 1 in (2.5 cm);
and elephant or jumbo cord has thick, heavy ribs.
Cutting out: use a nap layout with the pile on the corduroy,
brushing the pattern pieces from neck to hem, to give depth
Seams: plain, stitched using a walking foot and neatened with
serger or zigzag stitch
Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
Needle: machine size 12/16; sharps or milliner’s for
hand sewing
Pressing: steam iron on a cotton setting; use a seam roll under
the seams with a pressing cloth
Use for: pants, skirts, men’s wear
7. CRINKLE VELVET
Looks like an exaggerated version of seersucker, with
creases added by a heat process. Crinkle velvet may require
careful laundering as it often has to be twisted into shape
when wet to put the creases back in.
Cutting out: a nap layout is not required unless the fabric is
printed
Seams: plain, neatened with serger or zigzag stitch
Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
Needle: machine size 9-11; milliner’s for hand sewing
Pressing: steam iron only if you have to; use a velvet board,
a bit of steam, toe of iron, and silk organza cloth
Use for: scarves, elegant evening wraps, blouses, dresses,
children’s wear, upholstery
8. PANNE VELVET
Panne velvet is a plush, two way stretch fabric that has a
luxurious look and feel with a lovely drape. This is a type of
crush velvet with strech. In this fabric heavy pressure is applied
on the pile in one direction.Some times you find the same
pattern and feel in knit fabric, but that is not true velvet.
Cutting out: Mark velvet on the backside with chalk. Hand
basting with a contrasting thread can work in place of chalk
markings on the front of the fabric. Always cut velvet in single
layer .
Seams: plain seam, bias seam, stitch & pink
Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
Needle: machine size 14; milliner’s for hand sewing
Pressing: only if you have to; use a velvet board, a bit of
steam, toe of iron, and silk organza cloth
Use for: evening wear, costumes, dance wear, event
decorations, draperies
9. EMBOSSED VELVET
This velvet fabric has stamped designs ( usually floral ) all
over it and it is great for drapes and for stylish apparel.
Cutting out: Mark velvet on the backside with chalk. Hand
basting with a contrasting thread can work in place of chalk
markings on the front of the fabric. Always cut velvet in single
layer .
Seams: plain seam, bias seam, stitch & pink
Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
Needle: machine size 9-12 ballpoint; milliner’s for hand sewing
Pressing: only if you have to; use a velvet board, a bit of steam,
toe of iron, and silk organza cloth
Use for: jackets, coats, dress materials
10. CUT VELVET
This fabric has a pattern cut out from around uncut loops of
pile. Burntout velvet ( Devore) is this type. It is a simply
beautiful sheer fabric with velvet designs in floral and other
patterns – It is actually regular velvet that has had patterns
etched into the fabric. In this fabric the velvet pile is cut away
from some areas forming the patterns leaving the sheer fabric
in those areas
Cutting out: Mark velvet on the backside with chalk. Hand
basting with a contrasting thread can work in place of chalk
markings on the front of the fabric. Always cut velvet in
single layer .
Seams: plain seam, bias seam, stitch & pink
Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
Needle: machine size 14; milliner’s for hand sewing
Pressing: only if you have to; use a velvet board, a bit of
steam, toe of iron, and silk organza cloth
Use for: jackets, coats
11. PLUSH VELVET
This is a velvet with a longer pile and has a 100% polyester
backing. It is heavier than other velvet fabric . Actually some
would say that plush is not velvet. The pile of plush is more
than the regular length of velvet pile which is about .5 cms.
The blankets made of this is machine washable and very soft.
Cutting out: use a nap layout, with the fur pile brushed from
the neck to the hem; cut just the backing carefully and not
through the fur pile
Seams: plain, with a longer stitch and a walking foot; no
neatening is required
Thread: polyester all-purpose thread
Needle: machine size 14 ; milliner’s for hand sewing
Pressing:if required, use a cool iron
Use for: blankets, soft toys, upholstery