Fancy yarns are defined by their distinctive irregular profiles which enhance aesthetic qualities through various effects like spiral, gimp, and slub. Production methods include plying, spinning, and brushing processes, focusing on the interaction between ground, effect, and binder components to achieve desired textures. Different yarn types such as chenille and knop yarns are created through specific techniques that alter tension and feed rates during production.

1. FANCY YARN PRODUCTION

2. DEFINITION
• A fancy yarn is made with a distinctive irregular
profile or a construction that differs from the
basic single and folded yarns
• The objective is to enhance the aesthetics of the
end product.

3. BASIC FANCY YARN EFFECTS
 Spiral – mock spiral, mouline, jaspe
 Gimp – Frise, caterpillar, onde
 Slub – Ground slub, injected slub
 Knop – Knot, nep, button, reverse caterpillar
 Loop – Boucle, prong
 Cover – Twisted flame
 Chenille – Woven chenille, Plied chenille
 Snarl

5. CLASSIFICATION OF FANCY YARNS
Yarn Produced Effects Spun Yarn Effects
Regular Effects Controlled
discontinuous
effects
Regular Effects Controlled
discontinuous
effects
Spiral
Mouline
Loop
Boucle
Frotte
Gimp
Onde
Snarl
Cover
Chenille
Reverse
Caterpillar
Neps
Knots
Knop
Slub
Spiral
Mouline
Loop
Boucle
Gimp
Onde
Chennille
Button
Slub
Caterpillar
Combinations

6. BASIC PRINICIPLES
• BASIC COMPONENT
OF A FANCY YARN:
• 1. A ground or core
component
• 2. An effect
component
• 3. A binder
a

7. • To obtain structural effect, longer length of effect
component, relative to ground component must
be present to form the required effect.
• Twisting of the effect component on to the
ground component will produce aesthetic effect.
• The basic principle is therefore to feed the
ground and effect component at different speeds
in to the twisting element.
• The percentage ratio of the effect component to
the ground component is called over feed ratio

8. The exceptions to the above general
structure for fancy yarns are
1) Spiral yarns
2) Ground Slub
3) Flake & Nep spun yarns

9. PRODUCTION METHODS
1) Plying or Twisting Process
Fancy Twisting or Doubling Frame; Plying of
Non-effect or of Effective Yarns
2) Spinning Process
 Ring spinning
 Hollow spindle spinning
 DREF friction spinning
 Repco spinning
 Siro spinning
 Continuous felting: Wool and blends

10. 3) Brushing Process
Production of Hairy Yarns by Light
Brushing

11. PLYING TECHNIQUE
Two stages in the process
1) The profile twisting stage, involving the
ground and effect components
2) The binding stage, where the binder is
introduced to stabilize the profile.

12. G – Ground component
E – Effect component
 Roller E must not interfere
with the controlled running
of the ground yarns
 Grooves are cut into the
periphery of the top roller
 Length of effect yarn
needed to form a desired
profile is obtained by the
percentage over feed.
Profile Twisting Stage

13. • First approach is the G roller is
made to stop for a very short
period at irregular intervals while
E rollers are still feeding the
effect yarn into the twisting zone.
• The second approach in forming
the knob yarn is to have both
yarns constantly running over the
small over feed of the effect
component. The spacer bar is
made to oscillate up and down
continuously to alter the distance
of the travel go the effect
component.

14. Binding Stage
• This is a reverse-twist stage
• If the profile twist is of Z direction, the binding
twist is usually S direction to obtain the Balance
Yarn
• The profile yarn is commonly twisted with a
filament yarn, the latter having a slight overfeed
of 102% to 105%.

15. Plied Chenille Profile

16. SPINNING TECHNIQUE

17. HOLLOW SPINDLE TECHNIQUE

18. FANCY YARNS
• These are plied yarns where
one yarn wraps around the
other, rather than the yarns
being twisted together
• A spiral yarn has a higher twist
than a corkscrew yarn
• A spiral yarn usually has a
thinner yarn wrapped round a
thicker core
• A corkscrew yarn has a softer
bulkier yarn wrapped round a
thin, firm yarn

19. GIMP YARN

20. LOOP YARN

21. SNARL YARN
• Snarl yarns are made in a
similar way to loop yarns
• Except the effect yarn
has a high, lively twist, so
that the excess bits snarl
and double up on
themselves and twist
together
• (Just like the lengths of
cord we make on a door-
knob!)

22. KNOP YARN
• These yarns are also
made by feeding the
yarns at different rates
while spinning
• But this time the excess
yarn of one or more of the
components forms
bunches
• These can be at regular
or irregular intervals

23. COVER YARN

24. SLUB YARN
• Slub yarn is charactorised
by having,
• alternating short places of
thin, firm twist yarn,
• with places of very thick,
loose twist yarn
• The differnt areas can be
at regular or irregular
intervals

25. CHENILLE YARN
• chenille yarns have a soft, fuzzy
cut pile which is bound to a core
• These yarns can be spun, but
the machinery required is very
specialised
• For this reason, these yarns are
usually woven on a loom
• The effect yarn forms the warp,
which is bound by a weft thread
• The weft thread is spaced out at
a distance of twice the required
length of pile
• The warp is then cut half way
between each weft thread.