Type of Fancy yarn & Blending of Cotton Polyester Fiber to Produce PC / CVC Yarn

1. FANCY YARN
Yarn refers to a structure composed of continuous length of interlocked fibers. They are suitable for use in the
production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and rope making. However, fancy yarn
deviates from the normal yarns. These deviations occur mainly due to introduction of deliberate decorative
discontinuities in the form of colour, structure or both. The size and value of the market for fancy yarn is
negligible. However, fancy yarns appear mainly in high value items, so their small volumes cannot be ignored.
The fancy yarn gives a fancy touch to the fabrics to a broad range of end uses. Significant demand for the fancy
yams is the ladies and children outerwear.
The basic profiles of the fancy yarns are Spiral, Gimp, Slub, Knob, Loop, Cover, Chenille and Snarl yarns. The
fancy effect can be optioned with two ways:
1. By twisting and or doubling technique
2. With spun effect by means of fibres. The effects may be randomized and regular effects.
Basic Principle of Fancy Yarn:
A ground (core) component, an effect component and a binder in a fancy yarn are shown in the following figure.
To obtain structural effect, longer length of effect component, relative to ground component must be present to
form the required effect. Twisting of the effect component on to the ground component will produce aesthetic
effect.
Fig: Basic components of Fancy yarn
The basic principle is therefore to feed the ground and effect component at different speeds in to the twisting
element. The percentage ratio of the effect component to the ground component is called over feed ratio.
Fancy Yarn Manufacturing Systems:
The above figure shows the fancy yarn manufacturing system .The classification is made based on the twisting,
brushing and spinning process.
Classification of Fancy Yarns:
There are four main criteria recognized for the classification of fancy yarns. They are,
1. Type of raw material used for effect making

2. 2. Number of Ground and Effect making material components
3. Method of manufacture
4. Type of Effect produced
5. End use of fancy yarns
Classification of fancy yarns is done according to the type and form of material used for effect making. Type of
material used for effect making refers basic material of the components, viz; cotton, wool, silk, polyester, nylon,
blend etc. Whereas form of material refers forms of components used for the intended purpose. The components
can be not only yarns made from staple fibers or filaments but also the lengths of yarns and/or filament, fabric
pieces made up of woven material or knitted material or non-woven material as well as the polymer cover for the
decorative coating of core component. They can be tape/ ribbon, metallic yarns etc. added for decorative means.
The number and type of components virtually change the structure and exterior of the fancy yarn. The number of
the components can differ from one to six and more. The classification based on method of manufacturing
basically deals with direct or indirect process of getting fancy effect. Direct group deals with production of fancy
yarn in single step by specialized equipment, viz; twister for fancy yarn making, special knitting machine etc.
Whereas, and indirect category does not use specialized equipment for the production of fancy yarn. The
production delays by the number of machines in sequence. Fancy yarn produced by ring spinning systemis the
best example for this category. Following figure describes the classification of fancy yarn based on the type of
effects. Grouping of fancy yarn is based on the type of effects earned. Mainly deals with the variation in the
optical, structural and compound effect.
Figure: Classification of Fancy Yarns according to the type of the Effect
Types of Fancy Yarn:
1. Marl Yarn
The simplest among the fancy yarns, is the marl yarn and is made by twisting two different colored yarns together
in a yarn doubling process. It has a different texture from normal double yarn. The yarn structure shown in Figure
clearly shows the alternation of colours of the two yarns, which is the principal effect of marl yarn, as well as
exhibiting the plain structure, which is that of an ordinary folded yarn. These yarns are used to make discreet
pinstripes in men’s suiting or to produce a subtly and irregularly patterned knitted fabric with a relatively simple
fabric construction. They may also be used to provide a Lurex or other metallic yarn with strong support, while at
the same time creating a more subtle effect.

3. 2. Spiral or Corkscrew Yarn
A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn displaying the characteristic smooth spiralling of one yarn component
around the other and is very similar to the structure of a marl yarn. Below Figure shows the basic structure, which
is straightforward, except in the differing lengths of the two yarns used.
3. Gimp Yarn
A gimp yarn consists of at least three component yarns—the core, the effect, and the binder—and is produced in
two stages. In the first stage, the core and the effect, which is usually overfed, are twisted together, producing an
intermediate yarn similar to a spiral. In the second stage, the intermediate yarn is twisted together with the binder
yarn with a twist that is opposite in direction to the twist used in the first stage. This reverse binding process
removes most of the first stage twist. This leads to the effect yarn forming wavy projections on the yarn surface,
and these projections are secured onto the core yarn by the binder yarn. The basic structure of a gimp yarn is
illustrated in below Figure
4. Boucle Yarn
The boucle yarn is very similar in construction to the gimp yarn. It requires a minimum of three component yarns:
core, effect, and binder; and it is produced in two stages. The yarn construction is illustrated in Figure-7. The main
difference between a boucle yarn and a gimp yarn is that the wavy projections on the boucle yarn surface are
further away from the yarn body, a result of greater overfeeding of the effect yarn during the first twisting stage.
On the account of greater overfeed, the effect spirals very loosely around the core following the first twisting
stage. The wavy projections can be more easily distorted during the second twisting stage, leading to a more
variable yarn appearance.

4. 5. Loop Yarn
A loop yarn consists of a core with an effect yarn wrapped around it and overfed to produce a nearly circular loopy
projection on its surface. Figure shows the structure of a loop yarn, in this case somewhat simplified by showing
the core as two straight bars. In reality, the core always consists of two yarns twisted together, which entraps the
effect yarn. As a general rule, four yarns are involved in the construction. Two of these form the core or ground
yarns. The effect yarn(s) are formed with an overfeed of about 200% or more. It is important for these to be of the
correct type and of good quality. Even, low-twist, elastic and pliable yarn is needed. The effect yarn is not
completely entrapped by the ground threads and therefore a binder is necessary. The size of the loops is
determined by the level of overfeed, the groove space on the drafting rollers, the spinning tension or the twist level
of the effect yarn. Loop yarns can also be made with slivers in place of yarns for effect.
6. Snarl Yarn
Snarl yarn has a similar twisted core-to-loop structure. Again for the sake of simplicity, the core is shown in Figure
1.11 as two parallel bars. A snarl yarn displays ‘snarls’ or ‘twists’ projecting from the core. It is produced by
similar method to the loop yarn, but uses a lively, high-twist yarn and a somewhat greater degree of overfeed as
the effect yarn. The required size and frequency of the snarls may be obtained by careful control of the details of
overfeed and spinning tension, and by the level of twist in the effect yarn.

5. 7. Knop Yarn(Spot yarn/Nub yarn)
A knop yarn contains prominent bunches of one or more of its component threads, which are arranged at regular or
irregular intervals along its length . It is normally produced by using an apparatus with two pairs of rollers, each
capable of being operated independently. This makes it possible to deliver the base threads intermittently, while
the knopping threads that create the effect are delivered continuously. The knopping threads join the foundation
threads below the knopping bars. The insertion of twist collects the knopping threads into a bunch or knop. The
vertical movement of the knopping threads forms a bunch or knop. The vertical movement of the knopping bars
determines whether the knop is small and compact or spread out along the length of the yarn.
8. Slub Yarn
This is a yarn in which slubs are deliberately created to make the desired effect of discontinuity. Slubs are thick
places in the yarn that may take the form of a very gradual change, with only a slight thickening of the yarn at its
thickest point. Alternatively, a slub may be three or four times the thickness of the base yarn and the increase in
thickness may be achieved within a short length of yarn. The yarn pictures in Figure should give a clear impression
of the structure of the yarn itself.

6. Figure Knop, slub and fasciated yarns
9. Fasciated Yarn
This is a staple-fibre yarn that consists of a core of parallel fibres bound together by wrapper fibres. Yarns made by
the air-jet spinning method are structured in this way. Yarns produced by the hollow spindle method are also
frequently described as fasciated, as the binder is applied to an essentially twistless core of parallel fibres. The
fasciated yarn shown in above Figure is produced using the hollow spindle process. It is possible to see fibres that
have escaped the dark binding thread and contrast with one of the two slivers used as feedstock in making the
yarn.
10. Tape Yarn
Tape yarns may be produced using various processes including braiding, warp knitting and weft knitting .In recent
years, these materials have become better known, especially in fashion knitwear. It is also possible to use narrow
woven ribbons, narrow tapes of nonwoven material, or slit film in the same way.
11. Chainette Yarn
Chainette yarn, shown in Figure below, is produced in a miniature circular weft knitting process,
often using a filament yarn and a ring of between 6 and 20 needles. The process has been used
on a small scale for many years and is now used extensively in fashion knitwear.

7. Figure -Tape yarn, chainette yarn and chenille yarn
12. Chenille Yarn
True chenille yarns are produced from a woven leno fabric structure that is slit into narrow, warp-wise strips to
serve as yarn. These are pile yarns, and the pile length may be uniform throughout the length of the yarn or may
vary in length to produce a yarn of irregular dimensions. Chenille yarns are used in furnishings and apparel.
Chenille yarns, as shown in above Figure, have a soft, fuzzy cut pile that is bound to a core. These yarns can be
spun, but the machinery required is very much specialised. For this reason, these yarns are usually woven on
a loom. The effect yarn forms the warp, which is bound by a weft thread. The weft thread is spaced out at a
distance of twice the required length of pile. The warp is then cut halfway between each weft thread.
13. Ribbon Yarns
These yarns are not produced by spinning and consist of finely knitted tubes, pressed flat to resemble ribbon or
tape. The ribbons are usually soft, shiny and silky.

8. 14. Metallic Yarns
These have been used for thousands of years. Metallic yarns may be made of monofilament fibres or ply yarns.
Two processes are commonly used to produce metallic yarns. The laminating process seals a layer of aluminium
between two layers of acetate or polyester film, which is then cut into strips for yarns, as shown in Figure below
The film may be transparent, so the aluminium foil shows through, or the film and/or the adhesive may be
coloured before the laminating process. The metallising process vaporises the aluminium at high pressure and
deposits it on the polyester film.
15. Crepe yarn & Cable yarn
A basic crepe yarn is a 3-ply yarn made with a 2-ply and a singles. The 2-ply is spun Z in the singles and over
plied S. The single is spun S with enough twist to make a regular balanced ply and plied Z with the original 2-ply.
The yarn looks bubbly when it’s finished. The single traps the 2-ply which pushes out between the singles as it
untwists and expands on its second ply.

9. A basic cable yarn is two 2-ply yarns spun Z in the singles and over plied S in the first ply then plied together Z
to finish. The yarn looks pebbly, like a bridge cable. On the second ply, the two 2-ply yarns lock together and
bloom.
16. Textured yarn
Texturing is the formation of crimp, loops, coils, or crinkles in filaments. Such changes in the physical form of a
fibre (several examples of which are shown in Figure below) affect the behavior and hand of fabrics made from
them. Hand, or handle, is a general term for the characteristics perceived by the sense of touch when a fabric is
held in the hand, such as drapability, softness, elasticity.

10. 17. Tyre cord
Tyre cords are high tensile-strength cords that are used as reinforcing material to bolster the strength of final
product. They are manufactured by twisting continuous-filament tyre grade yarn in S or Z directions and then
plying them into 2 or 3 plies. Raw material is typically Polyester or Nylon yarn.
18. Sewing threads yarn:
Sewing thread is a flexible, small diameter yarn or strand usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant or both,
intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of material or an object to a material. It may be defined as smooth,
evenly spun, hard-twisted ply yarn, treated by a special finishing process to make it resistant to stresses in its
passage through the eye of a needle and through material involved in seaming and stitching operations.
Sewing threads are used in garments, upholstery, air-supported fabric structures and geotextiles to join different
components by forming a seam. The primary function of a seam is to provide uniform stress transfer from one
piece of fabric to another, thus preserving the overall integrity of the fabric assembly.

11. Application or End uses of fancy yarn:
1. Used in weaving of suiting, shirting, dress material, upholstery, furnishing fabric and woolen tweeds.
2. They are also used in knitting and braiding.
3. These are used for beauty and appeal enhancement.
Market Potential of Fancy Yarns:
While considering the market for fancy yarns, we need to remember that these goods are not commodity items,
and nor will they ever be. Their purpose is to add colour or texture, or both. So market value of fancy yarns will
remain negligible with compared to the rest of the textile market. But due to the consequence of liberalization in
trade with countries like China a great interest in fancy yarn area is noticed in textile market all over the world.
Due to liberalization in fancy yarns sector trade between Europe and Asia, the main Asian producers of fancy
yarns compete with each other to offer more and more sophisticated products.
Blending of Cotton Polyester Fiber to Produce PC / CVC Yarn
CVC Yarn:
In a cotton polyester blended yarn, when the amount of cotton fiber is more than polyester fibre it is called CVC
yarn. Here CVC stands for Chief Value of Cotton i.e., the ratio of cotton fibre is always above 50% or more.
Example: 30 s/1 Ne (60/40) CVC Yarn means, It is a 30 count single ply cotton-polyester blended yarn where the
ratio of cotton fibre to polyester fibre is 60 to 40.
PC Yarn:
A polyester cotton fibre blended yarn is called PC yarn, but in general where the amount of polyester fibre is
more than cotton fibre is called PC yarn. Here PC stands for Polyester Cotton.
Example: 30 s/1 (60/40) Ne PC Yarn means, It is a 30 count single ply cotton-polyester blended yarn where the
ratio of polyester fibre to cotton fibre is 60 to 40.
It can be said that every CVC yarn is also PC yarn but all the PC yarns are not CVC yarn.
The most popular reason for blending is that of combining the properties of two or more fibers. Blending of
different fibers is also used to increase aesthetic effects in the fabric.
Polyester/cotton blend is an example; a good end use is in suiting. Polyester is a man-made fiber with high
abrasion resistance and cotton is a natural fiber and has good moisture absorbency & feel.

12. Blending Process of Cotton-Polyester Fibre:
To produce a CVC/PC yarn the fibers must be blended before it reaches to ring frame machine as roving. This
blending process mainly can be done in two manners.
1. Fibre Blending:
According to the blending ratio of cotton & polyester fibre in the yarn, numbers of cotton & polyester bales are
given in the laydown in blowroom using bale management. Then the both fibres pass consecutively through the
fibre plucker machine- mostly used - Uniflock (Rieter) or Blendomat (Trutzschler) machine and then gradually
different cleaning machines. The homogenous blending of fibres takes place at mixing machine- mostly used as-
Unimix (Rieter) or Multimixer (Trutzschler) machine. This type of mixing/blending is called fibre blending. From
this type of blending, blended card slivers can be obtained. Then the regular spinning flow chart is followed till
ring frame machine to produce PC/CVC blended yarn.
Fig: Polyester-cotton fibre blending in blowroom
2. Sliver Blending:
In this process, cotton fibres & polyester fibres are processed through separate machines from blowroom to
carding. Then the separate card slivers are made from polyester & cotton. After that, to ensure better blending, the
polyester carded slivers are passed through one phase draw frame which is known as pre-pass phase to keep the
sliver hank as optimum as possible. After that according to the required blended ratio the slivers are blended in
breaker draw frame. In draw frame slivers are doubled, drafted & blended to the required ratio. After that,
conventional spinning process is followed till ring frame machine to produce PC/CVC yarn.

13. Fig: Polycotton sliver blending in draw frame
After a lot of experiments, it has been noticed that sliver blending is slightly better than fibre blending. In sliver
blending the ratio of cotton & polyester can be maintained more precisely than fibre blending.