This document discusses fancy yarns, which are yarns produced with deliberately introduced irregularities or imperfections to enhance aesthetics. Fancy yarns are more expensive to produce than plain yarns due to complex manufacturing processes. They have a core yarn and one or more effect yarns wrapped around the core with a binder yarn. Common classifications are by raw materials, number of components, production method, type of effect created, and end use. Examples of fancy yarn structures and their production methods are also provided.

1. Fancy yarns
By:
Yirdaw Z.

2. Introduction
 Yarn refers to a structure composed of continuous length of
interlocked fibers.
 In the case of plain yarn a perfect regularity of color and structure
main target of yarn production.
 However, fancy yarn different from basic single yarns and folded
yarns.
 Fancy yarns are special products of spinning with deliberately
introduced irregular/imperfection characteristics on the yarns.
 Most fancy yarns are produced by specialist fancy spinners, using
machines modified or developed for the purpose.

3. Cont...
 Others are produced from ‘fancy slivers’ which are used as minor
components in yarns made by spinners using normal equipment.
 Fancy yarn more time-consuming or complex manufacturing
processes makes the yarn more expensive than a plain yarn
would be.
 The constructional complexities are most often introduced by
employing a complex drafting and delivery system.
 Objective of fancy yarn is to enhance the aesthetics of the end
product with respect to visual, textural and colour properties.

4. Basic principle of fancy yarn
 The basic principle of fancy yarn
structure formation:
 A ground or core component
 An effect component and
 A binder
 Base or core yarn , around which the yarn intended to create the
fancy effect is wrapped;
 Effect yarn , which forms the design or aesthetic effect; and
 Binder which holds the effect yarn in place on the base to prevent
it slipping while it is being wound, knitted or woven.

5. Properties of fancy yarns
 There is much research yet to be done to discover the physical
properties of the different types of yarn, depending on the
machinery used to make them.
 The properties of fancy yarns that might be include;
 Strength
 Wear resistance
 Flexibility
 Comfort (example, yarn required for lining)
 Stretch properties , and
 Suitability for a particular manufacturing or dyeing process

6. Classification of fancy yarns
 There are differnt criteria in order to recognized for the
classification of fancy yarns.
 Type of raw material used for effect making
 Number of Ground and Effect making material components
 Method of manufacture
 Type of Effect produced
 End use of fancy yarns.

7. Cont...
Type of raw material used for effect making
 Type of material components used for effect making:
cotton, wool, silk, polyester, nylon, blend etc.
 Whereas form of material refers forms of components
used for the intended purpose.
 The components of the material can be made from
staple, filaments fiber and fabric pieces.
 They can be tape/ribbon, metallic yarns added for
decorative means.

8. Number of Ground and
Effect making material components
 The number and type of components virtually change the structure
and exterior of the fancy yarn.
 The number of the components can differ from one to six and more.

9.  The classification for fancy yarns, which also indicates the
two production methods employed.
 Yarn-produced effects are based on twisting or doubling yarns
together to create the fancy yarn effect from already spun
yarns in indirect form.
 This is the conventional method for producing fancy yarns.
 Nowadays, spun-effect yarns are fancy yarns spun directly
from fibers fed to the spinning system.
Method of manufacture

10. Fancy yarn manufacturing systems
Cont...

11. Some spinning technologies used for production of
fancy yarns depends on structural characteristics
 It is the oldest and versatile in terms of types of materials
(100% pure cotton, blend, man-made staples) and fineness of
yarn (wide range of count 6s to 120s).
 Ring and traveller are used for the insertion of the twist, by
using minimum of two sets of rollers.
A. Ring twisting method

12. Cont...
 Some of the effect formation by using ring twist methods;

13. B. Hollow spindle method
Cont..
 This system is suitable for making plain as well as fancy yarns.
 In this case most of the elements lie parallel to one another
while the binder imparts the necessary cohesion.

14. Cont..
 They used a cotton sliver as the binder fiber and two
colored polyester filaments as the core and effect yarns.
C. Open end rotor spinning method

15. D. Open end friction system
Instead of using a rotor, two friction
rollers are used to collect the opened-up
fibres and to twist them into the yarn.
E. Airjet texturing
It maybe used on all types of synthetic
flat filament, and is used for texturing
POY(Partially Oriented Yarns).

16. Cont...
F. Siro Spinning Method

17.  The classification of fancy yarn based on the type of effects.
Type of effect produced

18. Cont...
 Marl yarn is one in which two yarns of the
same count and twist, but of different colours,
are folded together to form a balanced yarn.
 A gimp is a compound yarn consisting of a
twisted core with an effect yarn wrapped
around it so as to produce wavy projections
on its surface.
Gimp yarn
Marl yarn
 A loop yarn consists of a core with an effect yarn
wrapped around it and overfed so as to produce
almost circular projections on its surface.
Loop yarn
Some structures and formation of fancy yarns

19.  A snarl yarn is one which displays ‘snarls’ or
‘twists’ projecting from the core.
 It is made by a similar method to the loop yarn,
but uses as the effect a lively, high twist yarn
and a somewhat greater degree of over-feed.
Snarl yarn
Cont...
 This is usually made with the plying technique.
 Typically, two single yarns differing thickness and
twist level and direction are plied together with a
slight overfeed of the coarser yarn.
Spiral yarn
Reading assignment:
Knop, Chenille, Boucle, Diamond, stripe, slub and other structure.

20. End use of fancy yarns
 Major application area of fancy yarn is
ornamentation.
 Ornamental fancy yarns are created to impart
special aesthetic appeal to fabrics to find
applications in normal and high fashion
clothing.
 A significant market segment for fancy yarns;
 Ladieswear
 Occasionally, they are used in men’s
jackets/sweaters, and ties.

21. Cont...
Knitting
Hand knitting is a popular
end use, mainly;
 ladies’, and
 Children’s.
Weaving
Leno weave is most commonly used

22. Cont...