"Exterior Painting Restoration" is the phrase I coined to describe the Attitude and Procedures required to produce long lasting exterior paint jobs on older buildings. Treat the CAUSES of paint failure and not just the SYMPTOMS. Create long lasting, beautiful paint jobs. Most painters only deal with the Symptoms, and therefore the jobs fail prematurely. This PowerPoint Presentation Includes sections on identifying the problem areas, how to effectively treat them, paint stripping, wood and plaster repairs, use of epoxy fillers and consolidants, issues regarding old lead paint, and more. Learn the tricks and tips of exterior painting and old home restoration from a specialist.

1. PART TWO

3. EXTERIOR PAINTING RESTORATION
PART TWO
This being a continuation of what was begun in PART ONE.
If you are interested in a more detailed explanation of the products,
techniques, and procedures shown in these presentations, you may wish
to also view the complementary (and complimentary) “White Paper” (aka
“Abstract”) entitled (take a wild guess) “Exterior Painting Restoration”. It is
available at :
www.slideshare.net/rdufort/exterior-painting-restoration-how-to-article
Finally, for those of you who like to see even more photos, you are
welcome to visit our Flickr photo heaven, particularly the photo set entitled
(take a guess) :
www.flickr.com/photos/magicbrushinc/sets/72157626367625417/

4. A Tale to Tell – every picture tells a story.
You just have to read it.

5. A Tale to Tell #1 Read the Signs

6. A Tale to Tell #2 Strip it Down

7. A Tale to Tell #3 Check it out

8. A Tale to Tell #4 The Usual Suspects

9. A Word to the Wise: Bondo Bad
(It’s inflexible and designed for metal, not wood….)

10. We refer to this as “dry-rot”

11. We refer to this as “dry-rot”
Usually is not fungi related – we use the
term “generically”.
Generally non-structural (if structural,
probably is fungi related).
Prevalent around old rusted nails and
heavily exposed, weathered surfaces.
(Windows sills, for example.)
Deteriorated Putty/Patches often
“signal” the presence of decay.
Punky, decayed Wood incapable of
being successfully patched “as is”.
How do you treat this condition?

12. “Dry-Rot”
Treatments

13. “Dry-Rot” Treatment
Phase One
• Prepare Surface – remove
deteriorated paint.
• Remove rusted nails, as
possible, and resecure.
• Dig out loose, “punky” wood.
What comes out easily with a
scraper is usually sufficient.

14. “Dry-Rot” Treatment
Phase Two
• Drill 1/4” holes around all
effected areas (but don’t drill
completely through the piece
of wood).
• Inject Epoxy Consolidant with
Turkey Baster (or approved
equivalent- e.g. plastic
mustard and ketchup
bottles).
• Saturate and Repeat.

15. “Dry-Rot” Treatment
Phase Two
• Drill 1/4” holes around all
effected areas (but don’t drill
completely through the piece
of wood).
• Inject Epoxy Consolidant with
Turkey Baster (or approved
equivalent- e.g. plastic
mustard and ketchup bottles).
• Saturate and Repeat.
What’s an Epoxy Consolidant?

16. Consolidants have many uses

17. Consolidants have many uses
Wood, of course:
Two component Epoxy Consolidants are
absorbed through the endgrain of wood,
saturating the looser deteriorated wood
and then “consolidating” those fibers
into the surrounding sound wood. Only
then is it possible to effect meaningful
repairs.

18. Consolidants have many uses
Plaster as well:
Epoxy Consolidants
infiltrate the loose
plaster, often
deteriorated due to
water damage, and
solidify into a solid,
repairable, surface.
Many plaster elements
can be successfully
salvaged using
these techniques.

19. Consolidants have many uses
Even Gutters:
The gutters on many older
California buildings are made
from redwood, and are usually
poorly sealed (if at all).
Once cleaned, they can be treated
with the epoxy consolidants and
then painted. Thus maintained,
they will continue to last a very
long time.

20. Consolidants have many
uses
In addition to being used to consolidate repair areas, the
lower viscosity (watery) consolidants can be used as the
initial sealer coat for all stripped wood. Some are highly
viscous (thick) and are not as suitable for this use. The
consolidant is absorbed into the wood (with virtually no
film build) and insures the successful adhesion of paint
primers that follow. (FYI - We highly recommend using
acrylics for primer and finish coats.)
We also use the consolidant to seal our epoxy fillers
prior to priming. (In fact, it is excellent for sealing most
patching materials. Highly recommended.)

21. “Dry-Rot” Treatment
Phase Three
• After consolidating, patch voids
with an Epoxy Filler designed to be
used with wood. Sand smooth after
curing.
• The final step is to seal the filler
with another coat of the
consolidant.
• NOTE: many fillers are not designed
for exterior wood application –
generally, they are too “hard” and
do not retain the flexibility to move
with the substrate as it expands and
contracts with the weather.

22. Fun with Epoxy!
ISSUES:
- Restore vs. Replace
- Permanent?
- Compare Epoxy to
Other Fillers

23. Repair, Rebuild, Restore, Reward
• Wood must have some structural
integrity (Totally rotted pieces
should be replaced.)
• Epoxy filler is applied with putty
knife or whatever tool works best
for the given situation. Generally
avoid “skimming out” in very thin
layers.
• Can use lacquer thinner to
“smooth” surface prior to curing.
(Will still require sanding in most
cases.)
• “Chopsticks” are good for
pushing filler into drill holes.
Really.

24. Interesting Epoxy Filler Facts
• Working Life of about 30 minutes.
• Mix 1:1 (most epoxy fillers).
• Thorough mixing (kneading)
necessary.
• Can be sanded, shaped and drilled.
This allows one to re-create profiles of
damaged moldings and ornamental
elements that would otherwise be
expensive to replicate.
• Curing generates heat which in turn
accelerates curing. Since larger
masses generate more heat than
smaller, it follows that large patches
will cure faster than small patches!

25. More Interesting Epoxy Facts
• Superb bonding to consolidated
wood.
• Seal with Consolidant prior to
Priming.
• Not Recommended in Seams and
Joints unless part of a large void.
• Larger Holes can be Partly Filled with
Wood (less expensive, too).
• Near Permanent Repair.
• Other Fillers are “No Comparison” –
we have inspected epoxy patches that
are over 20 years old and are still
holding up wonderfully.
(Save the bondo for your trucks, please...)

26. More Interesting Facts To
Come…
Now that the basics of
Epoxy Consolidating and
Filling have been
mastered covered, it
would seem that one is
finally ready to undertake
the “painting” portion of
a “Painting Restoration”.
Sorry, not so fast. There
are a couple more
components yet to be
assimilated.
Please continue on to PART THREE…

27. PAINTING RESTORATION
Magic Brush, Inc Robert Dufort
Founder, Contractor
Interiors, Exteriors, Wood Refinishing
• Certified EPA – RRP Renovator
• EPA – RRP “Lead Safe Company” • Certified California Lead Inspector
• Winner of 8 National PDCA Awards • Certified California Lead Supervisor
• Numerous Published Projects • Member Painting and Decorating
Contractors of America (PDCA)
• Member of Artistic License Guild
Since 1976 Speaker at National Conventions for the PDCA
415 641-8622 and National Trust for Historic Preservation.
License #452293 Plus local gigs.
www.magicbrush.net
Published articles in “Fine Homebuilding
magic@magicbrush.net Magazine” and others.
San Francisco, California