This document provides information about various textile finishing processes. It begins with an introduction to textile finishing, defining it as the final surface treatment of cloth after weaving or knitting to prepare it for market. It then discusses the objectives and types of finishing, including mechanical finishes like calendaring and chemical finishes like bleaching. Specific mechanical finishes like tentering and calendaring are described in more detail. The document also covers special finishes like resin finishing, degumming, carbonising and softening. It aims to improve the appearance, feel and performance properties of fabrics.

1. DR.B.M.N. COLLEGE OF HOME
SCIENCE(AUTONOMOUS)
MATUNGA,MUMBAI.
2019-20

2. PRESENTED BY
SYBSC (TSAD)
• MUNGEKAR SHRADDHA
• MUTHAMIL SELVI
• NARKHEDE DHANASHREE
• PAWAR RUPAL
• PRASAD ANISHA

3. INTRODUCTION
The term finishing means completing the manufacture of cloth
by surface treatment. In a broad sense it covers all the
treatment it undergoes after leaving the loom for
weaving/knitting machine till it enters the market and includes
processes like bleaching ,mercerising ,dyeing and printing.
But it is normally confined to the final stage in the
embellishment of textile goods after dyeing and printing. Most
of the fabrics required some finishing treatment or the other.
Silk does not require elaborate finishing treatment other than
smoothing and straightening process because of it natural
beauty and luster.
A bleached long cloth may not require any finishing treatment
except calendering. Finishing treatments depend on various
factors such as the nature of the fiber, texture of the fabric, its
physical operations differ according to the type of fiber in the
fabric and the properties to be imparted to it by mechanical or
chemical method.

4. OBJECTIVES
• To improve the appearance of the fabric, that makes
it more attractive by operations like calendering,
optical whitening etc.
• To improve the feel of fabric by softening, stiffening.
• To cover faults in the original fabric by starch
finishing.
• To increase the eight of the cloth by back filling with
starch and china clay or by tin chloride treatment.
• To improve wearing quality of cloth before making it
shrink resistant.

5. Continue……
• To impart special properties to the fabric for specific
end use such as water proofing, flame proofing moth
proofing.
• To make garment hold their shape and enable them to
be worn without ironing by durable press finishing.
• To set texture of certain fabric and make other
dimensionally stable by crabbing or potting (wool) and
heat setting (synthetic fabrics).
• To produce strong and more durable fabrics such as
seat covers of cars b coating, bonding and laminating.
• To produce novelty effects. e.g. organdie fabrics by
parchmentisin.

6. TYPES OF FINISHES
• MECHANICAL FINISHES • CHEMICAL FINISHES
Finishes that
cause a physical
change only
Finishes in which a
chemical reaction
cause a permanent
change in the fiber

7. Mechanical finishes
1)Simple : a series
of hard and soft
rollers. polished
metal and soft bawls
are made of
compressed cotton
or paper or wood.
• Calendering: uses high temperatures and pressures to change the
nature of the fabric. performed by a “stack” of rollers through which
the cloth passes. hard metal rollers alternate with softer ,cloth
wrapped rollers with solid paper rollers. Two metal rollers never run
against each other.
2)Friction:
used for
finishing
lining,
shirting, and
printed
clothes.
3)Schreiner: metal
roller engraved with
200 to 300 fine lines .
1957 it was produce
the satine finish on
nylon and polyester
tricot jersey.
4)Embossing:
produces either flat or
raised designs on the
fabric. consists of two
rolls , one is metal roll
heated from the inside
by gas flame. other one
is paper solid twice the
design of roll.

8. 5)Pleating: the fabric is
placed in a pleated paper
pattern mold and
another one is placed on
top fabric is pleated
between the two
pleating papers
6)Tentering
Clip
tension can be
exerted by
the clip tenter
, is also may
damage
fabrics.in
which pin
tenter is used.
7)Moire
:passing by two
layers of rib
weave.
watermark ,
woodgrain
describe fabric
finish. heat
applied during
thermoplastic
properties
Eg. Acetate ,
polyster
8)Napping:
one or both
side of the
fabrics
.produced
only with spun
yarns, as fibers
cannot be
pulled from
filament yarns
, wire hooks
used to pull
from low twist
yarns.
pin

9. Chemical Finishes
Bleaching: improves whiteness by
removing natural coloration and
trace impurities from the cotton.
(Oxidizing bleaching or reductive
bleaching)
Eg. white bed sheetings and medical
applications(highest levels of whiteness,
absorbency).
Mercerization: discovered in
1853 by john mercer , a calico
ptinter ,treated with caustic
soda solution. Increases luster
and softness .
• Eg . cotton (tension , yarn
and fabric),linen

10. Embossed finish on
fabric
Cotton and wool socks

12. Tentering
• Tentering is the mechanical straightening and dyeing
of fabrics.
• For woven fabrics the tenter establishes the
relationship between warp and filling yarns.
• Properly tentered fabrics will be straight or 'on-
grain' which means that warp yarns and filling yarns
are at true 90 degree angle.
• A tenter frame holds the fabric between two parallel
chains with either clips or special pins.
• The chains spread apart to the desired fabric width,
move with the fabric through finishing or drying
units, and release the fabric to be rolled or folded
onto cylinders.

13. Tentering
• The fabric is held horizontally between the two
chains , if filling yarns are not perpendicular to warp
yarns an 'off-grain' situation develops.
• Off-grain fabrics will not hang properly and may
change shape after use and care and the consumer
will probably be dissatisfied with product.
• To reduce the frequency of off-grain fabrics,
machinery like censors that stop the machine as
soon as yarns are not in proper relationships

14. Tentering

15. Calendaring or pressing
• It is a mechanical process of flattening or smoothening the
surface of fabrics.
• * Calendaring is applied to cotton linen silk rayon and other man
made fabric.
• *Pressing is the term used for wool fabrics and those made from
blends of wool and other fibers.
• *Calendaring or pressing uses heavy equipment that differ them
from ironing the equipment used can create much greater
pressure on fabrics than any iron
• *Calendaring uses large metal rolls and a softer roll the hard roll is
heated and it flattens the surface of fabrics.
• *Pressing uses moisture to provide steam and reduce the
possibility of damage to the fabric.

16. Calendering

18. SPECIAL FINISHES
Special finishes are done on textile materials ,
it is a treatment that changes the appearance ,
handle and performance of the fibre , yarn or
fabric. The main objective of finishes is to
impart desired end use properties to the textile
materials.

19. DEGUMMING
• It is only done on silk. Degumming is
the process of removing the sericin,
or silk gum, from silk. Removing the gum
improves the sheen, color, hand, and texture
of the silk. Because the sericin [silk gum] can
serve as a protective layer, little amount of
sericin left over until it is ready

20. CARBONISING
• It is specially done on wool . carbonising is a
chemical finish which removes vegetables
impurities such as seed, grass and burs which
may remain on scoured wool. Woolen textile
(yarn , fibre or fabric) can be carbonised
before or after dyeing

22. RESIN FINISHING/WRINKLE FREE
• Resin can be defined as a synthetic resins are
complex organic products of high molecular weight.
• It results when a number of simple molecular of
low molecular weight join together and to form
longer molecules which may be linear or linear
molecules cross- linked.

23. RESIN FINISHING
• Resin finishing was originally developed in the mid
1920s to improve the crease recovery problems
associated with cellulosic materials.
• Resin are the chemical group applied as wer finishes
and used in many of the finishes.

24. PURPOSE OF USING RESIN
• Resin are used for many purposes, primarily on
cellulosic and cellulosic blends.
• Resin are colorless.

25. CHEMICAL BONDS
• It was found that urea and formaldehyde would react
with the hydroxyl groups in cellulose to form a bon
which gave the product both good recovery from
creasing and improved dimensional stability

26. APPLICATION OF RESIN
• It is applied to fabrics in liquid form, usually on a
padder, then dried and finally treated at high
temperature causing the resin to react chemically
with the cellulosic component of the fabric.

27. RESIN AGENTS

28. PURPOSE OF RESIN FINISH
• Minimize shrinkage.
• IMRPOVE WRINKLE RESISTANCE
• Improve fabric appearance.
• Improve dimensional stability.

29. MODIFICATION OF RESIN
• It add stiffness to fabric and thus used as stiffening
agents or to create a firm hand.
• Resin stabilize fabrics in the same shape or
configuration as when the resin was cured.
• Yarns in fabric will be stabilized and will resist
shrinkage in laundering.
• Fabric cured in a smooth, non wrinkled condition will
return to that shape after being wrinkled in wear.
• This reduction can be as high as 50%.

30. TYPES OF RESIN
Resin are mainly of two groups:
• Deposition type of resins.
• Cross linking types of resins.

31. APPLICATION OF RESIN
• Resin are applied in soluble form on the surface of
cotton fabric using Padding Mangles with an acid
catalyst.
• If Dimethylo urea is padded and dried on cotton,
then it is called as deposition type of resin, but after
drying if curing is carried out, then it is called as cross
linking type of resin.
• Process : pad-Dry- Cure ( 1500 C for 5 min)

32. CROSS LINKING TYPE OF RESIN
• It is reacted chemically with the fiber substance and
cross link the fiber molecules.
• This type of resin finishing is durable and is much
better than deposition type of resin finish.
• It is also known as N-Methylol compounds as the
methylol groups(-CH2 OH) are attached to nitrogen.
• It is also known as precondensates .

34. STEPS INVOLVED IN RESIN FINISH
drying
washing
curing
drying
padding

37. DEFINITION OF SOFTENING
• Softening refers to the process of modifying the
handle or feel of textiles for better comfort, better
wear and performance under defined conditions of
use.
• It is the process associated with modification of
surface properties of textile described in terms to
handle, volume, softness and drape.

38. SOFTENING
• Softness of a fabric is a subjective sensation felt by
the skin when a textile fabric is touched or gently
compressed.
• Often exposure to various process and chemicals, for
instance, heat setting or crease resistant finish
imparts stifness to the fabrics, which adversely affect
for handling.
• Softening forms a very important part of the
chemical processing.

39. DISADVANTAGES OF SOFTNING
• Reduced crock fastness.
• Yellowing of white goods
• Change in the hue of dyed goods and fabric structure
slippage.

40. SOFTENING
• Softeners are applied on knit fabrics in the final rinse
after the wet treatments to restore their handle.
• It consist of molecules with both a hydrophobic and
hydrophilic part.
• Which contain long alkyl groups with 16-12 carbon
atoms.
• Most of the softeners have low water solubility.
• Glycerin and Turkey Red Oil(TRO) are commonly
chemicals used to impart softness.

42. CLASSIFICATION OF SOFTNERS
• Softeners are classified according to their ionic
nature into cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric
and silicone softeners.

43. 1) CATIONIC SOFTNERS
• Cationic softners are the most preffered
• class of softners for
industrial applications.

44. CATIONIC SOFTNERS
ADVANTAGE DISADVANTAGE
High softening efficiency. Render a hydrophobic surface
and poor rewetting properties
because hydrophobic groups
are oriented away from
surface.
Substantivity to most most
fibres and good lubricant
properties.
Example quarternary
ammonium salts.

45. 2) ANIONIC SOFTNERS
• Anionic softeners are the compounds which have
anionic groups oriented towards outside.
• They are stable to heat during textile processing and
are compatible with other components of dyes and
bleaching baths.
• Provides good antistatic and rewetting properties
and can be used in combination with anionic
fluorescent brightening agents.
• Example: Turkey Red Oil ( TRO ).

47. 3) NON-IONIC SOFTNERS
• Non-ionic softeners are generally less efficient than
anionic and cationic softeners, but they can
withstand the effect of hard water and extreme PH
conditions.
• Examples : ethers and polyglycol esters, oxiethylates
products, paraffin's and fats.

48. 4) AMPHOTERIC SOFTNERS
• Amphoteric softeners have strong ionic character
and hence provide good softening effect, low
permance to washing and high antristatic effect.
• Example: compounds based on betaine and amine
oxide.

50. SILICONE-BASED SOFTNERS
• Silicone-based softeners are generally polysiloxane
derivatives of low molecular weight.
• They are insoluble in water and therefore must
applied on fabrics after dissolution in organic
solvents / in the form of disperse products.
• They create a lubricating and moderately waterproof
film on the surface and give fabric a velvety silky
handle.

51. SILICONE-BASED SOFTNERS
• They can be used for velvets, upholstery fabrics and
emerised fabrics.
• Enzymes such as cellulose have also been used in the
softening of cotton.
• Bio-polishing, treatments removes protruding fibers
and slubs from fabrics, which reduce the diameter of
the yarn and leads to softening of handle and
smoothing of the surface.

53. REFERENCES
1)Title: Essentials of textiles Publisher: Holt Rinehart and Winston
Publication date: October 1987
2) Title: textile finishing Author: R.S. Prayag Publication date: 1994
Web refences:
• https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/anionic-softener-
10683786762.html
• https://in.pinterest.com/pin/656188608193004499/?lp=true
• https://www.textileschool.com/228/ways-to-finish-fabrics/
http://www.daeper.com/en/Products/45.html
• https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/03/raising-or-napping-
finishing-working.html
• https://www.indiamart.com/silverart/