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![Hemispheres Magazine Jan 2015
Bob Bland, a former Tommy Hilfiger and
Ralph Lauren designer, has just
launched Manufacture New York, a
160,000-square-foot complex in the
Sunset Park neighborhood of Brooklyn
• Self-customization promises to be a big
part of what Manufacture New York
provides
Current News
“You can be online anywhere in the world, design a piece, order and have this
automated process produce a garment in half an hour,” Bland says
“Customers can scan
themselves on a device like
a Kinect [the Xbox motion
sensor]. Then we take the
measurements.”](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/d460769f-d0c6-4fee-882d-5ad5f74c35d6-150629220519-lva1-app6892/85/Digital-Textile-Printing-20150206-v1-1-8-320.jpg)
![RC1536
Performance SPT RC1536
RC1536
Print width 108.3mm
number of nozzles 1536
Resolution 360
Grayscale 8 levels
Drop Volume 17-100pl
Dot Frequency 10.4kHz (7drop)
Productivity/nozzle [kHz*pl] 1040
Productivity/head [ml/min] 95.8
number of heads/Bar*1
7
Max Discharge/Bar*2
[g/2
@25m/min]
48.8
(360dpi*634dpi)
*1: 1Bar=700mm
*2: Specific gravity=1.38](https://image.slidesharecdn.com/d460769f-d0c6-4fee-882d-5ad5f74c35d6-150629220519-lva1-app6892/85/Digital-Textile-Printing-20150206-v1-1-34-320.jpg)
Uploaded byMichael Raymond
Digital Textile Printing 20150206 v1.1
The document summarizes developments in digital textile printing. It notes that while digital printing currently has only 2% market share compared to traditional analog processes like screen printing, its market penetration is growing at over 6% in the next five years. Digital printing offers advantages like variable data, short runs, and customization. However, its adoption is still limited by factors like expertise, workflows, and costs. Inkjet technology is advancing to help address costs, with production printers now available. If digital printing captures just 6% of the global textile printing market, it could be a $1 billion industry.
More Related Content
Digital Textile Printing 20150206 v1.1
- 1. The Coming ofAge for Digital Textiles Ink Jet Printing 2015 Conference February 4-6, 2015 The Florida Hotel & Conference Center Orlando, Florida
- 2. Industrial Printing Markets 2 Textile Publishing Graphics Packaging Product Decorati on TilesAdditive Manufa cturing = Digital Penetration Present 2% penetration grows to >6% in 5 years
- 3. Global Textile PrintingMarket ApparelApparel IndustrialIndustrial InteriorInterior TextileTextile 38%38% 8%8% 54%54% >30 billion m ApparelApparel IndustrialIndustrial InteriorInterior TextileTextile 38%38% 8%8% 54%54% >30 billion m2 printed per year
- 4. Textile Printing 4 Printed Textile DTF DTG = DigitalPenetration Direct To Fabric • Roll To Roll • Printing before Cut &Sew • Flat and Rotary Screen Direct To Garment • Printing after Cut &Sew • Flat Screen Printing
- 5. The Applications areEndless….. Swimwear Silk Accessories Shirt & Blouses Sportswear Interior Textiles Intimate Apparel Flag & Banner Soft Signage Gaming Industrial Banners Gaming Tables Apparel Swimsuits Silk Accessories Flags
- 6. • Heimtextil –Frankfurt • Imprinted Sportswear Show - Long Beach, CA – Direct To Garment Printing • DomoTex – Hannover - Carpeting and flooring printing • Texworld – NYC – Brands and Designers meet Suppliers • Current News • Businessweek • Hemisphere Magazine 2015 – Great Start Everyone is talking about Digital Textile Printing (DTP)
- 7. “Despite its manyproduction advantages and the substantial savings to be made in water, energy and raw materials, digital printing still has a hill to climb before seriously challenging the established rotary and flat screen processes for textiles. Nevertheless, it’s gaining ground all the time”. John Provost “The technology requires fewer resources and enables faster production cycles,” she said, “and textile designers can also experiment more creatively and flexibly with high-quality forms and models. In addition, purchasers of home and household textiles have the possibility to respond more quickly and more individually to today’s consumer requirements.” - Heimtextil Director Ulrike Wechsung. Heimtextil 2015 Comments
- 8. Hemispheres Magazine Jan2015 Bob Bland, a former Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren designer, has just launched Manufacture New York, a 160,000-square-foot complex in the Sunset Park neighborhood of Brooklyn • Self-customization promises to be a big part of what Manufacture New York provides Current News “You can be online anywhere in the world, design a piece, order and have this automated process produce a garment in half an hour,” Bland says “Customers can scan themselves on a device like a Kinect [the Xbox motion sensor]. Then we take the measurements.”
- 9. BusinessWeek – Jan2015 • Perfecting The Science of the Shirt • Burberry • L.L. Bean • Eddie Bauer • H&M, • Zara More designs, shorter runs, faster delivery Current News
- 10. • Textile WorldMagazine – Jan-Feb 2015 • Vapor Apparel To Open Cut-And-Sew Facility • North Charleston, S.C. based Vapor Apparel has announced it will open a 300,000-square-foot cut-and-sew facility in Union, S.C. The company manufactures performance apparel and offers sublimation print-on-demand services Current News
- 11. • Printing isa huge industry that is dominated by analog processes • Digital printing is growing at high rates • Cost-To-Print And Profitability Gaps are closing • World production of printed textiles amounted to around 31 billion square meters in 2014, Provost said, and of this production, around 65% were rotary screen printed fabrics and 25% flat screen. With a variety of other different processes carried out, digital printing had just an estimated 2% share of the overall market, amounting to around 600 million square meters Industrial Printing Transformation 11
- 12. • What drivesdigital printing? • Variable Data • Sampling • Short runs – short lead times • Customization • What limits digital penetration? • Expertise • Digital Work Flows, Color management, spot vs. process color • Equipment availability for production printing speeds • Cost to print versus analog All printing should be Digital! 12 Guttenberg Press ~1439 AD
- 13. • Inkjet technologyhas advanced, but • 4-6 year cycles for Piezo Inkjet • (Moore’s law for information technology is doubling every 1.5 years) • Software, color management and digital workflows are now understood and working • Training and knowledge improvements • Production level printers have arrived… Inkjet Technology Progression 13
- 14. Digital Publishing Presses 14 Océ JetStream® Hewlett Packard RicohInfoprint 5000 FujiFilm Jet Press Offset Replacement
- 15. Digital Packaging Presses 15 EFIJetrion Domino Durst Konica KM1 Flexographic Replacement
- 16. High Speed DigitalTextile Printers 16 Screen-print Replacement
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- 19. • It hasbeen a challenge to get formulations to jet well with good characteristics on the substrates • Inkjet ink formulations now meet the challenges: • Jetting reliability • Color Consistency • End Use Characteristics • Formulations have been optimized • Inkjet ink costs are high compared to screen • High Purity requirements • Shelf Life • Coverage Ink Technology 19 Cyan Light Cyan Magenta Light Magenta Black Gray Yellow Orange Blue Red
- 20. End Use Properties •Wash Fastness • Acid Perspiration • Alkali • Light Fastness • Dry Crock • Wet Crock • Chlorine
- 21. Traditional vs. DigitalTextile Printing Acid Dye 10% Reactive Dye 28% Pigment 2% DS Transfer 52% DS Direct 8% Digital Textile Printing Acid Dye 3% Reactive Dye 26% Pigment 51% DS Transfer 5% DS Direct 15% Traditional Textile Printing
- 22. Digital Textile InkManufacturers Imaging Colorants
- 23. TEXTILE PRINTING COSTS Analog– Digital Crossover 23
- 24. • Cost OfPrinting (COP) is limiting expansion of digital printing into conventional analog printing markets • Cost Of Printing • Printer, Labor, Media, Ink, Facility, Energy, etc. • Ink is most of the COP • Colorant is a small proportion of inkjet ink • i.e., textile pigment ink has 4%-7% colorant • Inkjet Ink is manufactured in large batches • Shelf life 6-24 months • Inventory and shipping costs are high Present Situation 24
- 25. Typical Production CostCurve 25 $0.00 $1.00 $2.00 $3.00 $4.00 $5.00 $6.00 $7.00 50 200 350 500 650 800 950 1100 1250 1400 1550 1700 1850 2000 2150 2300 2450 2600 2750 2900 3050 3200 3350 3500 3650 3800 3950 4100 4250 4400 4550 4700 4850 5000 $/sqm Square Meters Analog vs. Digital Screen 2012 Digital 2012
- 26. Digital vs. RotaryScreen Comparison SPG Prints Published Data 26 Digital Consumption 100 gr/m2 Digital Consumption 150 gr/m2
- 27. Run Length CostCrossover 27 $0.00 $1.00 $2.00 $3.00 $4.00 $5.00 $6.00 $7.00 50 350 650 950 1250 1550 1850 2150 2450 2750 3050 3350 3650 3950 4250 4550 4850 $/sqm Square Meters Screen vs. Digital 2002 Screen 2002 Digital 2002 $0.00 $1.00 $2.00 $3.00 $4.00 $5.00 $6.00 $7.00 50 350 650 950 1250 1550 1850 2150 2450 2750 3050 3350 3650 3950 4250 4550 4850 $/sqm Square Meters Screen vs. Digital 2012 Screen 2012 Digital 2012 $0.00 $1.00 $2.00 $3.00 $4.00 $5.00 $6.00 $7.00 50 350 650 950 1250 1550 1850 2150 2450 2750 3050 3350 3650 3950 4250 4550 4850 $/sqm Square Meters Screen vs. Digital Screen 2012 Digital 2012 DISC Digital Ink $ Down Screen Ink $ Up Screens $ Down
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- 29. Potential 29 Printed Textile Marketsqm/yr 25,000,000,000 30,000,000,000 Each 0.1% market penetration 0.10% 25,000,000 30,000,000 liters 437,500 525,000 Each 0.1% Penetration = 500,000 liters digital ink Cost/ L $ 30 $ 40 $ 50 $ 60 $ 70 $ 80 0.5% $ 65,625,000 $ 87,500,000 $ 109,375,000 $ 131,250,000 $ 153,125,000 $ 175,000,000 1.0% $ 131,250,000 $ 175,000,000 $ 218,750,000 $ 262,500,000 $ 306,250,000 $ 350,000,000 1.5% $ 196,875,000 $ 262,500,000 $ 328,125,000 $ 393,750,000 $ 459,375,000 $ 525,000,000 2.0% $ 262,500,000 $ 350,000,000 $ 437,500,000 $ 525,000,000 $ 612,500,000 $ 700,000,000 2.5% $ 328,125,000 $ 437,500,000 $ 546,875,000 $ 656,250,000 $ 765,625,000 $ 875,000,000 3.0% $ 393,750,000 $ 525,000,000 $ 656,250,000 $ 787,500,000 $ 918,750,000 $ 1,050,000,000 3.5% $ 459,375,000 $ 612,500,000 $ 765,625,000 $ 918,750,000 $ 1,071,875,000 $ 1,225,000,000 4.0% $ 525,000,000 $ 700,000,000 $ 875,000,000 $ 1,050,000,000 $ 1,225,000,000 $ 1,400,000,000 4.5% $ 590,625,000 $ 787,500,000 $ 984,375,000 $ 1,181,250,000 $ 1,378,125,000 $ 1,575,000,000 5.0% $ 656,250,000 $ 875,000,000 $ 1,093,750,000 $ 1,312,500,000 $ 1,531,250,000 $ 1,750,000,000 5.5% $ 721,875,000 $ 962,500,000 $ 1,203,125,000 $ 1,443,750,000 $ 1,684,375,000 $ 1,925,000,000 6.0% $ 787,500,000 $ 1,050,000,000 $ 1,312,500,000 $ 1,575,000,000 $ 1,837,500,000 $ 2,100,000,000 6.5% $ 853,125,000 $ 1,137,500,000 $ 1,421,875,000 $ 1,706,250,000 $ 1,990,625,000 $ 2,275,000,000 7.0% $ 918,750,000 $ 1,225,000,000 $ 1,531,250,000 $ 1,837,500,000 $ 2,143,750,000 $ 2,450,000,000 6% Penetration > $1B Ink "Textile Printing Production to Reach 32 Billion Square Meters by 2015” (ITS, PIRA, Infotrends)
- 30.
- 31. Run Length Analysis 0 20 40 60 80 100 100 500 900 1300 1700 2100 2500 2900 3300 3700 4100 4500 4900 5300 5700 6100 6500 6900 7300 7700 LinearMeters Digital 0 20 40 60 80 100 100 500 900 1300 1700 2100 2500 2900 3300 3700 4100 4500 4900 5300 5700 6100 6500 6900 7300 7700 Linear Meters Screen 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 100 500 900 1300 1700 2100 2500 2900 3300 3700 4100 4500 4900 5300 5700 6100 6500 6900 7300 7700 Linear Meters Normalized Run Lengths Comparison Screen Digital 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 100 600 1100 1600 2100 2600 3100 3600 4100 4600 5100 5600 6100 6600 7100 7600 AxisTitle Linear Meters Normalized Run Length Comparison Screen DISC 3200k Liters 25000k Liters The market wants to print here…but can’t at present Exponential Growth Relative Ink Volumes Digital = 3.5M L Screen = 280M L 31
- 32. Profitably Gap 32 Screen The gapbetween the low volumes of digital and the high volumes of rotary screen printing shows the economic potential Digital Opportunity
- 33.
- 34. RC1536 Performance SPT RC1536 RC1536 Printwidth 108.3mm number of nozzles 1536 Resolution 360 Grayscale 8 levels Drop Volume 17-100pl Dot Frequency 10.4kHz (7drop) Productivity/nozzle [kHz*pl] 1040 Productivity/head [ml/min] 95.8 number of heads/Bar*1 7 Max Discharge/Bar*2 [g/2 @25m/min] 48.8 (360dpi*634dpi) *1: 1Bar=700mm *2: Specific gravity=1.38
- 35. Konica Minolta's next-generationflagship model, “KM1800i,” is a newly-developed high-performance multi-nozzle inkjet printhead furnished with 1776 nozzles and capable of a print width of 75 mm. The product features include an independent drive method that enables simultaneous jetting from all nozzles, 1776 nozzles with a high density of 600 npi and is ideal for commercial printing applications that require high- speed printing with the high image quality realized by the single-pass method. Major Features Multi-nozzle structure with 1776 nozzles and a 600 npi high-density printhead All-nozzle independent drive system, maximum drive frequency: 84 kHz Stable discharge performance that realizes high image quality during high-speed printing Grey scale performance with a maximum of 8 gradations 3.5 pl small droplets, UV-ink compatible Next-generation Inkjet Printhead “KM1800i”
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- 38. • MEMS DropEjector • Drop-on-demand • Silicon MEMS construction with sputtered PZT film actuator • High print speeds: >100 kHz jetting frequencies • Native drop volumes (1…5 pL) • Multi-pulse capable for larger drop volumes (up to 6x ) • VersaDrop Gray Scale • Excellent jet straightness • Ink Compatibility • Wide ink latitude (material, temperature, viscosity range) • Continuous ink recirculation • Robust non-wetting coating • Aqueous (dye and pigment), UV, aqueous-UV, latex, and solvent-based inks • Scalable Architecture • High resolution: 1200 nozzles per inch • Unique matrix nozzle pattern for ease of stitching • Small footprint and modular design • Field replaceable SAMBA™ Inkjet Printhead Technology
- 39. MultiDrop – GrayScale Technology 3 • MultiDrop Technology • Gray Scale
- 40. Nozzle PlateMaterials Nickel Stainless Steel Polyimide Silicon Nozzle Holes Etching Laser Drilling Punching Electroform MEMs Nozzle Plate Coatings Wetting – no coating Non-Wetting Coating Nozzle Plate Technology
- 41. Key benefits: Improvesinitial priming Enables fast jet recovery Prevents settling of heavily pigmented inks Improves open time of fast drying inks Uniform Temperature Control Continuous Circulation 4 Continuous Ink Flow
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- 43. Durst Kappa 320at Heimtextil
- 44. Mutoh 1638WXMutoh RJ-900X MSLaRIO Reggiani ReNOIR Standard Mid-Range High Speed Extreme Speed Mimaki JV-33 Mimaki TX-500 MS JP-6 Printing Equipment
- 45. ArioJet • Direct ToGarment • Production Digital Printing • Replaces a screen-print station
- 46. Paradigm Production DigitalDTG • Direct To Garment • Production Digital Printing • Replaces a screen-print station
- 47. • Now, withthe introduction of single pass machines, digital printing is capable of operating at speeds faster than rotary printers. • MS in Italy has already introduced the LaRio single pass machine • Kyocera Printheads Single Pass Digital Printers 35 - 75 liners meters per minute 63 sqm per minute 3500 sqm per hour Rotary Screen Speeds
- 48. • SPG Printsannounced Pike, a new single pass digital textile print • 75 meters per minute • Samba printheads on the system are configured in a single-pass array called Archer • throw distance • nozzle redundancy • Targeted at rotary screen printers printing between 3 million and up to 10 million meters annually. • Ink Consumption: 65k liters to 210k liters
- 49. Digital Textile PrintingSuccess (US) 49
- 50. Opportunities from GrowthBarriers • Printers (of course) • Auxiliary Equipment • Dryers • Calendars • Steamers • Washers • Environment Controls • Capital Equipment Financing • Color Management • Workflow Optimization • Web To Print • Technician Training • Operator Training • Ink Production and Supply Chain $
- 51. Grow Industrial DigitalPrinting 51 Textile Graphics Packaging Product Decoration Tiles Additive Manufa cturing Digital Textile • Production Solutions are INKJET • Highest Ink Volume • All aqueous • Green Technology Dry toner Liquid Toner Offset Lithography Flexographic Hybrid Gravure Screenprint • Laser • Inkjet • Inkjet • Laser • Inkjet • Inkjet
- 52. Thank You The TechnologyPartnership ‘TTP’ Melbourn, Herts. SG8 6EE. UK Mike Raymond Technical Sales – Business Development ttpmeteor, Philadelphia Office, USA Mike.Raymond@ttpmeteor.com https://www.youtube.com/watch ?v=FxuXP0BRBxM
Editor's Notes
- #3 It’s a great time to be in the digital printing industry. Everything that can go digital will and we at the start of a major transformation to digital printing. Printing is a huge industry. Print is everywhere. The proportion digitally printed products in the world is small compared to convectional analog processes. In the three top large markets Graphics, Textiles and Packaging, less than 2% of the output is printed digitally.
- #5 It’s a great time to be in the digital printing industry. Everything that can go digital will and we at the start of a major transformation to digital printing. Printing is a huge industry. Print is everywhere. The proportion digitally printed products in the world is small compared to convectional analog processes. In the three top large markets Graphics, Textiles and Packaging, less than 2% of the output is printed digitally.
- #13 Digital has always made economic sense where variable data, short runs or customization is required. But really has not entered the mainstream. The barriers to digital printing are coming down. That is Guttenberg's assistant telling him that all printing will be digital some day
- #14 Digital printing and inkjet technology. Well it's not Rocket Science…Its harder It has taken decadesfor printhead technology to develop Shared wall technology like Xaar, Seiko, Ttec, Konica was started in the late 80’s and early 90’s Dimatix carbon b;ock techniques was developed in mid-90’s Ricoh and Trident pusher technologies started development in the mid 80’s I was developing new printhead technology and told my boss 18-24 months for development AND another 18-24 months for our OEM’s to develop their products What… that means 4-6 years before significant revenue flow The Moore’s law for piezo inkjet printhead technology is a doubling every 4-5 years. --DRUPA is every 4 years --ITMA is every 4 years
- #17 Printers are now available that meet real production speeds. The last ITMA show introduced printers at this high end and the technology has progressed rapidly since. We are hearing that some of these companies have reached capacity and are extending delivery times I was at a customer in Mexico recently that just installed a Renoir from Reggiani. They are planning on installing 4-5 more this year. This will bring their digital capacity to about ½ million meters per month. That would be about 25% of their present printed output. And they want to eventually eliminate all screen printing operations and go 100% digital.
- #20 But what about inkjet ink technology? Digital ink itself has the same colorants used in conventional printing. Formulators adopted the analog ink formulations and modified for jetting reliability. The difficulty is formulated to perform reliably in the printhead and the substrate All the components that make up an ink formulation are commodities. AND textile inks are more than 50% water. Ink companies are increasing production capacity and depend on increasing volumes to get cost and prices down.
- #21 AATCC =
- #25 There is always a business decision whether to print a job via screen or digital and it comes to the cost to print. When all the factors are added up the ink is the primary cost driver for digital. For screen printing, setup costs are large but ink costs are lower. The proportion of colorant in inkjet inks is less than what can be put into screen ink. This is primarily due to the low viscosity requirements for reliable jetting. Inkjet ink is manufactured in large batches in centralized locations and shipped to distributors or end users. formulation components are mixed chemical reactions are occurring and the ink is slowly changing its characteristics. Temperature variations during shipping and storage can affect the quality of ink. Fresh ink performs best
- #26 This is typical curve for digital printing versus conventional There will always be a gap in the ink cost because of colorant content and purity requirements Similar curves for all printing markets For shorter runs, below 1500 meters, digital is economical The question always is: how big is the market for these short runs?
- #27 Stork data validating the previous curve Notice ink coverage 70g/sqm for dye and 100gram/sqm for pigment is about 30% less than what is required for inkjet Higher viscosity and latitude allow more colorant in screen inks
- #28 When I started in the digital textile printing market in 2000, crossover was about 1000 meters. Each year the market reports would come out and say digital textile printing is less than 2% and will reach 10% penetration in the next 5 years. Last year the reports said the same thing. And the crossover point had not changed very much. Although the industry is still enjoying 15-20% growth rates as it moved into short run and customizations. Economic run lengths for Digital Textile Printing must get higher to penetrate into high volume production.
- #30 The printed textile market is getting close to 30B square meters per year. This varies with fashion and design cycles but generally grow 2-3% per year Each 1/10 of a percent penetration into the textiles in ½ million liters of inkjet ink Digital textile ink is presently greater thas $300 million. The market for Digital Textile Inks exceeds $1B with only 6%-7% penetration
- #33 We discussed how digital textile cost will not be as low as screen inks We can close the profitability gap greatly increase digital penetration If we bring economical run lengths where print is needed the available ink market grows by an order of magnitude
- #36 http://www.konicaminolta.com/inkjethead/products/inkjethead/index.html