This article discusses textiles found in Viking Age burials in Birka, Sweden. Birka was an important trading and craft production center, yet it was previously believed that organized textile production did not take place there. However, analyses of over 2,500 preserved textile tools from Birka indicate textile production was extensive and varied, contradicting the idea that only coarse wool fabrics were produced locally. The article examines textiles to provide information about Viking Age society and individuals. Textiles can reveal aspects of identity, ideology, mentality and burial customs, shedding light on norms and values as well as the persona of the deceased.
This document provides information about various events happening in Manchester from 12th-27th February 2024 to celebrate International Mother Language Day. The events showcase languages from around the world through exhibitions, readings, performances, and other activities at various venues across the city. Some of the featured events include an exhibition of multilingual writing at Manchester Central Library, poetry readings in Greek and French, language tours at Manchester Museum, and a conference discussing language teaching and advocacy. The document lists over 15 specific events celebrating linguistic diversity in Manchester.
This document describes a project report submitted by Mr. Yogesh O. Kalambe on textile printing. The report discusses various traditional printing methods like block printing, resist dyeing, and discharge printing. It also describes the stages of textile printing including pre-treatment of fabric, preparation of colors and printing paste, applying the paste using printing methods, drying and fixing the print. Common thickening agents for printing paste like starch, gum, flour and albumen are also explained. The report provides detailed information on traditional textile printing techniques.
Revealing and Contextualizing the treasures of the Biodiversity Heritage Libr...Trish Rose-Sandler
This talk focused on two projects being carried out by the Missouri Botanical Garden related to the Biodiversity Heritage Library - Art of Life and Engelmann Correspondence. The Art of Life, funded by NEH, is a project to identify and describe the rich natural history illustrations hidden within the pages of BHL literature. The Engelmann Correspondence project, funded by IMLS, is a project to digitize and make available in BHL letters sent to 19th century botanist, George Engelmann by his colleagues in the US and Europe. Both projects are providing new content types to the BHL portal http://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/, helping contextualize its published literature, and expanding BHL audiences.
The art of embroidery has existed for over 30,000 years, originating in places like China and the Middle East. It began as a way to join animal skins but evolved into an embellishment for clothing. Different cultures developed unique embroidery techniques using materials available to them. Embroidery was especially important in medieval Islamic societies and was used decoratively on many items of clothing, decor, and more. In Europe, elaborate gold embroidery known as Opus Anglicanum became prestigious. Samplers were also embroidered by young girls as part of their training. Contemporary embroidery takes many artistic forms around the world today.
Scholarly knowledge about the past through archives, repositories and collect...NTNU University
Museums and libraries were established as repositories of memory, initially as rarity-cabinets and archives by rich collectors in the 16th century. These resulted in the museum and library archives as public institutions of the 18th century with a mission to educate their visitors (Dilevko 2004). During the 19th century the past was defined as the product of “intellectual enactment and study” (Benett, 2004, p.2). Today, the use of Virtual Reality (VR) applications in Archaeology and Museology and the ever-increasing development of interactive software and new technological platforms have provided museum and library archives and historical collections with a new space of contact to their users. In other words, Museums, libraries and institutions of memory have been challenged to find new forms of dialogue with their users and have turned to VR technology to entertain and inform their audience.
This document provides an introduction to the field of cultural memory studies. It begins with an editorial preface that outlines the interdisciplinary and international nature of cultural memory research. The field brings together concepts from history, social sciences, philosophy, literature, media studies, neuroscience, and more from different countries and academic traditions. The goal of the handbook is to provide an integrated survey of this diverse field. It includes concise overviews of key concepts and current research from areas as varied as neuroscience and literary history to advance understanding of cultural memory. The handbook is edited by Astrid Erll and Ansgar Nünning and features contributions from researchers around the world and in various disciplines.
This document discusses the history and future possibilities of using digital imaging technologies to study medieval manuscripts. It provides examples of how manuscripts like the Utrecht Psalter and Beowulf have been imaged using different technologies over the past 150+ years, from sketches to ultraviolet light to digital facsimiles. It also debates the benefits and limitations of current digital surrogates and argues that future work should focus on building networked archives of manuscript information rather than standalone digital editions or facsimiles.
This document provides information about the history and development of the Icelandic wool sweater. It discusses how the sweater originated as a practical work garment but has since become a national and fashion symbol. The document outlines key periods in the sweater's evolution, from its origins in cottage industries to a factory product and popular export in the mid-20th century. It also describes influential designers and the development of standardized patterns that helped spread Iceland's knitting traditions.
This document provides information about various events happening in Manchester from 12th-27th February 2024 to celebrate International Mother Language Day. The events showcase languages from around the world through exhibitions, readings, performances, and other activities at various venues across the city. Some of the featured events include an exhibition of multilingual writing at Manchester Central Library, poetry readings in Greek and French, language tours at Manchester Museum, and a conference discussing language teaching and advocacy. The document lists over 15 specific events celebrating linguistic diversity in Manchester.
This document describes a project report submitted by Mr. Yogesh O. Kalambe on textile printing. The report discusses various traditional printing methods like block printing, resist dyeing, and discharge printing. It also describes the stages of textile printing including pre-treatment of fabric, preparation of colors and printing paste, applying the paste using printing methods, drying and fixing the print. Common thickening agents for printing paste like starch, gum, flour and albumen are also explained. The report provides detailed information on traditional textile printing techniques.
Revealing and Contextualizing the treasures of the Biodiversity Heritage Libr...Trish Rose-Sandler
This talk focused on two projects being carried out by the Missouri Botanical Garden related to the Biodiversity Heritage Library - Art of Life and Engelmann Correspondence. The Art of Life, funded by NEH, is a project to identify and describe the rich natural history illustrations hidden within the pages of BHL literature. The Engelmann Correspondence project, funded by IMLS, is a project to digitize and make available in BHL letters sent to 19th century botanist, George Engelmann by his colleagues in the US and Europe. Both projects are providing new content types to the BHL portal http://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/, helping contextualize its published literature, and expanding BHL audiences.
The art of embroidery has existed for over 30,000 years, originating in places like China and the Middle East. It began as a way to join animal skins but evolved into an embellishment for clothing. Different cultures developed unique embroidery techniques using materials available to them. Embroidery was especially important in medieval Islamic societies and was used decoratively on many items of clothing, decor, and more. In Europe, elaborate gold embroidery known as Opus Anglicanum became prestigious. Samplers were also embroidered by young girls as part of their training. Contemporary embroidery takes many artistic forms around the world today.
Scholarly knowledge about the past through archives, repositories and collect...NTNU University
Museums and libraries were established as repositories of memory, initially as rarity-cabinets and archives by rich collectors in the 16th century. These resulted in the museum and library archives as public institutions of the 18th century with a mission to educate their visitors (Dilevko 2004). During the 19th century the past was defined as the product of “intellectual enactment and study” (Benett, 2004, p.2). Today, the use of Virtual Reality (VR) applications in Archaeology and Museology and the ever-increasing development of interactive software and new technological platforms have provided museum and library archives and historical collections with a new space of contact to their users. In other words, Museums, libraries and institutions of memory have been challenged to find new forms of dialogue with their users and have turned to VR technology to entertain and inform their audience.
This document provides an introduction to the field of cultural memory studies. It begins with an editorial preface that outlines the interdisciplinary and international nature of cultural memory research. The field brings together concepts from history, social sciences, philosophy, literature, media studies, neuroscience, and more from different countries and academic traditions. The goal of the handbook is to provide an integrated survey of this diverse field. It includes concise overviews of key concepts and current research from areas as varied as neuroscience and literary history to advance understanding of cultural memory. The handbook is edited by Astrid Erll and Ansgar Nünning and features contributions from researchers around the world and in various disciplines.
This document discusses the history and future possibilities of using digital imaging technologies to study medieval manuscripts. It provides examples of how manuscripts like the Utrecht Psalter and Beowulf have been imaged using different technologies over the past 150+ years, from sketches to ultraviolet light to digital facsimiles. It also debates the benefits and limitations of current digital surrogates and argues that future work should focus on building networked archives of manuscript information rather than standalone digital editions or facsimiles.
This document provides information about the history and development of the Icelandic wool sweater. It discusses how the sweater originated as a practical work garment but has since become a national and fashion symbol. The document outlines key periods in the sweater's evolution, from its origins in cottage industries to a factory product and popular export in the mid-20th century. It also describes influential designers and the development of standardized patterns that helped spread Iceland's knitting traditions.
Group 2 presented on the history and techniques of weaving. Weaving has existed since at least 3000 BC in the Indus Valley civilization. The main materials used are jute and cotton. Weaving was used politically by Gandhi to promote khadi as part of the independence movement. Technological advances like synthetic materials have impacted weaving. Weaving involves interlacing threads under and over each other on a loom. It has evolved from simple tree looms to modern power looms. Weaving is used in education, science, and social sciences to develop skills like creative thinking. Traditional weaving is prominent across cultures like India, Persia, Oceania, and others.
Pbj Painting | Historical Paintings By Jeffrey Sapppbjpainting
PBJ Painting USA can offer a new coat of paint to your roofs in order to improve exposure. By changing the color of your commercial or professional developing to a lighter color, you will be able to generate more light with fewer furnishings, as the paint will offer an indicative surface for the light to bounce off of. Improved exposure means safer workers and a more attractive company.
Bente Jensen
Archives’ Outreach in the Nordic Countries – a Question About Relevance, Participation and Dialogue
ICARUS-Meeting #17 | Transparency - Accessibility – Dialogue. How a creative archival landscape can effect society
23–25 May 2016, Krukmakarens hus (The Potter´s house), Mellangatan 21, 621 56 Visby / The Regional State Archives in Visby, Broväg 27, 621 41 Visby, Sweden
Greek folk art has a long tradition spanning over 3,000 years and constitutes an important part of Greece's cultural heritage. It includes various handicrafts such as weaving, embroidery, pottery, metalwork, and wickerwork which were an essential part of everyday life. These handicrafts expressed the social conscience and aesthetics of ordinary Greek people. While some crafts like weaving and embroidery were highly practiced in the past, other crafts like wickerwork and leatherworking require great skill and are less common today, though efforts are being made to preserve Greece's folk art traditions.
This presentation introduces the European Reserarch Centre for Book
and Paper Conservation-Restoration, its projects and further education
courses. Furthermore the studios for conservation are presented and the
possibilies how archives could cooperate with the Centre are listed.
The document provides an acknowledgement and acceptance for a project report on the variable test study of cotton knit fabric. It thanks various professors and instructors for their guidance and support throughout the project. It includes an introduction that defines key terms like cotton, knitting, bursting strength, GSM, density, softening, and porosity. It discusses the history of cotton and knitting. The methodology and objectives of the project are also outlined. The document is organized into various chapters that cover literature review, data collection, results and variations, recommendations, and conclusions. It aims to find the variations in test results for cotton knit fabric before and after processes like scouring, bleaching, and dyeing.
What Happens When the Internet of Things Meets the Middle Ages?Andrew Prescott
Keynote lecture by Andrew Prescott, University of Glasgow, to the second medieval materialities conference, 'Encountering the Material Medieval', University of St Andrews, 19-20 January 2017: https://medievalmaterialities.wordpress.com
The article analyzes two dressmaking schools in Stockholm called The Birgitta Schools that operated from 1910-1935. The schools were originally founded as one institution by Emy Fick and Elisabeth Glantzberg in 1910 but split into two separate schools in 1914 when they had a rift. Emy Fick ran The Saint Birgitta School and Elisabeth Glantzberg ran The Birgitta School until the mid-1930s. Through analysis of artifacts, photographs, garments, and theories of gender, fashion, and modernity, the article seeks to understand how the schools related to contemporary discourses on femininity and fashion and the evolution of modernism during their operation.
The document announces that the seven countries in the Comenius project have selected their third regional wonder, which is the most traditional handicraft. It then provides details on each country's selection: Slovakia selected bobbin lace making; Czech Republic selected violin making; Greece selected traditional needlework; Turkey selected Ebru art of marbling; Poland selected Grod foluszek settlement crafts; and Scotland highlighted weaving and tartan design activities.
AA April 2015 Catalogue - low res website versionPatrick Harris
This document provides a summary of the Spring/Summer 2015 catalogue from Archaeopress, an archaeology publisher. It lists the table of contents which includes sections on theory and method, multi-period archaeology, prehistory of Britain/Ireland/Europe, Egypt/Near East, classical civilizations, medieval periods, Asia, the Americas, biography/travel, open access publications, and forthcoming titles. It welcomes readers to the catalogue and provides information about Archaeopress and the types of publications it offers covering all time periods and geographic locations. It also announces a new digital subscription service for libraries and institutions to access publications.
The document discusses the history and importance of paper. It notes that papermaking was invented in China around 105 AD by Cai Lun. From China, papermaking spread throughout Asia and later to the Middle East and Europe. Paper revolutionized communication and the spread of knowledge. It has countless applications and uses across many industries and aspects of modern life. Paper remains an important material for writing, printing, packaging, and more.
The document outlines the suggested curriculum for art courses at ordinary and higher secondary school levels in Ireland. It recommends a broadly based program including observational studies, imaginative composition, design, craftwork, and the history and appreciation of art. For the leaving certificate exam, students would complete projects in imaginative composition or still life, design, craftwork, life sketching, and a written exam on the history and appreciation of art. The exam aims to test students' general knowledge and visual analysis skills rather than detailed memorization.
Computational History and the Transformation of Public Discourse in Finland, ...UCLDH
The document summarizes a research project involving several Finnish universities to analyze publishing trends and the development of public discourse in Finland between 1771-1910 using text mining techniques on digitized historical newspapers and journals. The project includes analyzing metadata about books and publications, identifying text reuse through machine learning methods, and publishing results in academic conferences and journals.
Printing is a process for mass reproducing text and images using a master form or template. The earliest non-paper products involving printing include cylinder seals and objects such as the Cyrus Cylinder and the Cylinders of Nabonidus. The earliest known form of printing as applied to paper was woodblock printing
This document discusses the claim that "we are all archaeologists now" from multiple perspectives. It begins by outlining how the phrase has been used by some to argue that archaeology can be understood as a form of popular culture that the public engages with. However, others question whether this level of inclusivity is appropriate or risks undermining archaeological expertise. The document presents responses from archaeologists and others on whether the current scope, practices, and participants in archaeology support the idea that everyone can be considered an archaeologist. It acknowledges there are good arguments on both sides of this issue.
This document provides definitions and background information on various textile terms. It begins with an introduction to textiles and defines key terms like fiber, filament, yarn and fabric. It then discusses the history of natural fibers like cotton, wool and silk. The document also summarizes the development of various man-made fibers like rayon, nylon, acrylic and polyester. It provides timelines of when these fibers were first invented and commercialized. The document is intended to serve as a reference for textile engineering students.
1) The document presents a new design method for wearable art that involves a designer writing a story based on research to inspire the design of a garment.
2) As an example, the designer wrote the story of "A Woman's Journey" incorporating cultural and historical images into the narrative.
3) A dress was designed and created using various textile techniques that represented elements from the story in order to convey the artistic meaning and cultural significance.
The British Library is the national library of the United Kingdom. It contains over 170 million items across all formats, including books, journals, newspapers, maps, stamps, sound recordings, patents, and websites archived from the UK domain. The library receives a copy of all publications produced in the UK and Ireland. It has extensive digital collections amounting to over 1 petabyte of data. The library is actively involved in digitization projects and uses digital methods like optical character recognition, crowdsourcing, and computational analysis to study and enrich its collections.
This document provides a history of textiles and weaving from early origins over 30,000 years ago to modern developments. It details the earliest known fibers including flax, cotton and wool dating back to 3000 BC in various ancient civilizations. Key developments discussed include advances in looms and weaving techniques over time, the importance of textiles in ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, Greece, Rome and other societies, and revivals of hand weaving in modern times. Contemporary fiber artists are also mentioned.
This document discusses crochet and its history and applications in Finnish craft practices. It outlines that crochet originated from knitting and was brought to Finland in the early 19th century. It grew in popularity in the late 19th century, especially in western Finland. Today, crochet is used to make toys, clothing, home decor goods, and works of art and activism. The document presents examples of different crochet styles and products over time in Finland.
The document provides instructions for requesting writing assistance from HelpWriting.net. It outlines a 5-step process: 1) Create an account; 2) Complete a request form providing instructions, sources, and deadline; 3) Review bids from writers and select one; 4) Review the completed paper and authorize payment; 5) Request revisions to ensure satisfaction, with the option of a full refund for plagiarized work.
The document provides instructions for creating an account, submitting a request, and receiving writing assistance on the HelpWriting.net website. It outlines a 5-step process: 1) Create an account with an email and password. 2) Complete a request form with instructions, sources, and deadline. 3) Review bids from writers and choose one. 4) Review the completed paper and authorize payment. 5) Request revisions to ensure satisfaction, with a refund option for plagiarism. The instructions aim to guide users through obtaining writing help on the site.
Group 2 presented on the history and techniques of weaving. Weaving has existed since at least 3000 BC in the Indus Valley civilization. The main materials used are jute and cotton. Weaving was used politically by Gandhi to promote khadi as part of the independence movement. Technological advances like synthetic materials have impacted weaving. Weaving involves interlacing threads under and over each other on a loom. It has evolved from simple tree looms to modern power looms. Weaving is used in education, science, and social sciences to develop skills like creative thinking. Traditional weaving is prominent across cultures like India, Persia, Oceania, and others.
Pbj Painting | Historical Paintings By Jeffrey Sapppbjpainting
PBJ Painting USA can offer a new coat of paint to your roofs in order to improve exposure. By changing the color of your commercial or professional developing to a lighter color, you will be able to generate more light with fewer furnishings, as the paint will offer an indicative surface for the light to bounce off of. Improved exposure means safer workers and a more attractive company.
Bente Jensen
Archives’ Outreach in the Nordic Countries – a Question About Relevance, Participation and Dialogue
ICARUS-Meeting #17 | Transparency - Accessibility – Dialogue. How a creative archival landscape can effect society
23–25 May 2016, Krukmakarens hus (The Potter´s house), Mellangatan 21, 621 56 Visby / The Regional State Archives in Visby, Broväg 27, 621 41 Visby, Sweden
Greek folk art has a long tradition spanning over 3,000 years and constitutes an important part of Greece's cultural heritage. It includes various handicrafts such as weaving, embroidery, pottery, metalwork, and wickerwork which were an essential part of everyday life. These handicrafts expressed the social conscience and aesthetics of ordinary Greek people. While some crafts like weaving and embroidery were highly practiced in the past, other crafts like wickerwork and leatherworking require great skill and are less common today, though efforts are being made to preserve Greece's folk art traditions.
This presentation introduces the European Reserarch Centre for Book
and Paper Conservation-Restoration, its projects and further education
courses. Furthermore the studios for conservation are presented and the
possibilies how archives could cooperate with the Centre are listed.
The document provides an acknowledgement and acceptance for a project report on the variable test study of cotton knit fabric. It thanks various professors and instructors for their guidance and support throughout the project. It includes an introduction that defines key terms like cotton, knitting, bursting strength, GSM, density, softening, and porosity. It discusses the history of cotton and knitting. The methodology and objectives of the project are also outlined. The document is organized into various chapters that cover literature review, data collection, results and variations, recommendations, and conclusions. It aims to find the variations in test results for cotton knit fabric before and after processes like scouring, bleaching, and dyeing.
What Happens When the Internet of Things Meets the Middle Ages?Andrew Prescott
Keynote lecture by Andrew Prescott, University of Glasgow, to the second medieval materialities conference, 'Encountering the Material Medieval', University of St Andrews, 19-20 January 2017: https://medievalmaterialities.wordpress.com
The article analyzes two dressmaking schools in Stockholm called The Birgitta Schools that operated from 1910-1935. The schools were originally founded as one institution by Emy Fick and Elisabeth Glantzberg in 1910 but split into two separate schools in 1914 when they had a rift. Emy Fick ran The Saint Birgitta School and Elisabeth Glantzberg ran The Birgitta School until the mid-1930s. Through analysis of artifacts, photographs, garments, and theories of gender, fashion, and modernity, the article seeks to understand how the schools related to contemporary discourses on femininity and fashion and the evolution of modernism during their operation.
The document announces that the seven countries in the Comenius project have selected their third regional wonder, which is the most traditional handicraft. It then provides details on each country's selection: Slovakia selected bobbin lace making; Czech Republic selected violin making; Greece selected traditional needlework; Turkey selected Ebru art of marbling; Poland selected Grod foluszek settlement crafts; and Scotland highlighted weaving and tartan design activities.
AA April 2015 Catalogue - low res website versionPatrick Harris
This document provides a summary of the Spring/Summer 2015 catalogue from Archaeopress, an archaeology publisher. It lists the table of contents which includes sections on theory and method, multi-period archaeology, prehistory of Britain/Ireland/Europe, Egypt/Near East, classical civilizations, medieval periods, Asia, the Americas, biography/travel, open access publications, and forthcoming titles. It welcomes readers to the catalogue and provides information about Archaeopress and the types of publications it offers covering all time periods and geographic locations. It also announces a new digital subscription service for libraries and institutions to access publications.
The document discusses the history and importance of paper. It notes that papermaking was invented in China around 105 AD by Cai Lun. From China, papermaking spread throughout Asia and later to the Middle East and Europe. Paper revolutionized communication and the spread of knowledge. It has countless applications and uses across many industries and aspects of modern life. Paper remains an important material for writing, printing, packaging, and more.
The document outlines the suggested curriculum for art courses at ordinary and higher secondary school levels in Ireland. It recommends a broadly based program including observational studies, imaginative composition, design, craftwork, and the history and appreciation of art. For the leaving certificate exam, students would complete projects in imaginative composition or still life, design, craftwork, life sketching, and a written exam on the history and appreciation of art. The exam aims to test students' general knowledge and visual analysis skills rather than detailed memorization.
Computational History and the Transformation of Public Discourse in Finland, ...UCLDH
The document summarizes a research project involving several Finnish universities to analyze publishing trends and the development of public discourse in Finland between 1771-1910 using text mining techniques on digitized historical newspapers and journals. The project includes analyzing metadata about books and publications, identifying text reuse through machine learning methods, and publishing results in academic conferences and journals.
Printing is a process for mass reproducing text and images using a master form or template. The earliest non-paper products involving printing include cylinder seals and objects such as the Cyrus Cylinder and the Cylinders of Nabonidus. The earliest known form of printing as applied to paper was woodblock printing
This document discusses the claim that "we are all archaeologists now" from multiple perspectives. It begins by outlining how the phrase has been used by some to argue that archaeology can be understood as a form of popular culture that the public engages with. However, others question whether this level of inclusivity is appropriate or risks undermining archaeological expertise. The document presents responses from archaeologists and others on whether the current scope, practices, and participants in archaeology support the idea that everyone can be considered an archaeologist. It acknowledges there are good arguments on both sides of this issue.
This document provides definitions and background information on various textile terms. It begins with an introduction to textiles and defines key terms like fiber, filament, yarn and fabric. It then discusses the history of natural fibers like cotton, wool and silk. The document also summarizes the development of various man-made fibers like rayon, nylon, acrylic and polyester. It provides timelines of when these fibers were first invented and commercialized. The document is intended to serve as a reference for textile engineering students.
1) The document presents a new design method for wearable art that involves a designer writing a story based on research to inspire the design of a garment.
2) As an example, the designer wrote the story of "A Woman's Journey" incorporating cultural and historical images into the narrative.
3) A dress was designed and created using various textile techniques that represented elements from the story in order to convey the artistic meaning and cultural significance.
The British Library is the national library of the United Kingdom. It contains over 170 million items across all formats, including books, journals, newspapers, maps, stamps, sound recordings, patents, and websites archived from the UK domain. The library receives a copy of all publications produced in the UK and Ireland. It has extensive digital collections amounting to over 1 petabyte of data. The library is actively involved in digitization projects and uses digital methods like optical character recognition, crowdsourcing, and computational analysis to study and enrich its collections.
This document provides a history of textiles and weaving from early origins over 30,000 years ago to modern developments. It details the earliest known fibers including flax, cotton and wool dating back to 3000 BC in various ancient civilizations. Key developments discussed include advances in looms and weaving techniques over time, the importance of textiles in ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, Greece, Rome and other societies, and revivals of hand weaving in modern times. Contemporary fiber artists are also mentioned.
This document discusses crochet and its history and applications in Finnish craft practices. It outlines that crochet originated from knitting and was brought to Finland in the early 19th century. It grew in popularity in the late 19th century, especially in western Finland. Today, crochet is used to make toys, clothing, home decor goods, and works of art and activism. The document presents examples of different crochet styles and products over time in Finland.
The document provides instructions for requesting writing assistance from HelpWriting.net. It outlines a 5-step process: 1) Create an account; 2) Complete a request form providing instructions, sources, and deadline; 3) Review bids from writers and select one; 4) Review the completed paper and authorize payment; 5) Request revisions to ensure satisfaction, with the option of a full refund for plagiarized work.
The document provides instructions for creating an account, submitting a request, and receiving writing assistance on the HelpWriting.net website. It outlines a 5-step process: 1) Create an account with an email and password. 2) Complete a request form with instructions, sources, and deadline. 3) Review bids from writers and choose one. 4) Review the completed paper and authorize payment. 5) Request revisions to ensure satisfaction, with a refund option for plagiarism. The instructions aim to guide users through obtaining writing help on the site.
The document provides instructions for creating an account and submitting a request on the HelpWriting.net website in order to have an assignment written. Users are instructed to complete an order form with details of the assignment, and writers will then bid on the request. The user can then choose a writer, make a deposit, and receive the completed paper which can be revised if needed through the service.
Writing A Case Study Analysis - 500 MBA LeveJoaquin Hamad
This document provides instructions for writing a case study analysis through HelpWriting.net. It outlines a 5-step process: 1) Create an account; 2) Complete an order form with instructions and deadline; 3) Review bids from writers and choose one; 4) Review the completed paper and authorize payment; 5) Request revisions until satisfied. It emphasizes original, high-quality work and refunds for plagiarism.
Here are the key points of support that will be provided for the new Kappa chapter
establishment at Bentley University:
- Chapter consultants and leadership consultants will host campus events, tabling sessions, and
informational sessions to educate interested women about Kappa and the membership selection
process.
- Interested women will have the opportunity to participate in Meet Greets to learn more directly from
the consultants.
- The goal is to have 230-250 women participate in the recruitment process for the new Kappa
chapter.
- The coordinator of chapter development assigned to the new chapter will work closely with the
chapter president to develop and implement an overall strategic plan for successful establishment.
- Ongoing
Importance Of Secondary Speech And English EducJoaquin Hamad
The document provides instructions for using the HelpWriting.net website to request writing assistance. It outlines a 5-step process: 1) Create an account with a password and email. 2) Complete an order form with instructions, sources, and deadline. 3) Review bids from writers and choose one. 4) Review the completed paper and authorize payment. 5) Request revisions until fully satisfied, with a refund option for plagiarism. The document promises original, high-quality content to meet customer needs.
The passage describes a conversation between a divorcing couple, Lon and Luci, about what it means to be an adult. Lon argues that getting older does not necessarily make someone more responsible or mature. He claims people only pretend to be responsible because that is society's expectation of adulthood. Luci responds that while they are both adults, Lon is still childish in how he argues. The narrator then disagrees with Lon's view, stating that taking on responsibilities like careers and homes is necessary for survival as one ages beyond relying on parents.
The document discusses the emergence of nationalism in the 19th century. It began as a replacement for religion as the main unifying force. The French Revolution is seen as the first emergence of modern nationalism. Renaissance and Protestant Reformation ideas also contributed to rising European nationalism. The document then discusses the recorded history of Bangladesh and how it was ruled by various powers until nationalism grew in the 19th century and fueled movements for independence from British rule.
Why Do You Want To Be An Engineer College EssayJoaquin Hamad
The document provides instructions for requesting writing assistance from HelpWriting.net. It outlines a 5-step process: 1) Create an account; 2) Complete an order form providing instructions, sources, and deadline; 3) Review bids from writers and select one; 4) Review the completed paper and authorize payment; 5) Request revisions until satisfied. The service aims to provide original, high-quality content and offers refunds for plagiarized work.
Red And Blue Lined Handwriting Paper PrintableJoaquin Hamad
This document provides instructions for creating an account and requesting writing assistance from HelpWriting.net. It outlines a 5-step process: 1) Create an account with a password and email. 2) Complete a 10-minute order form providing instructions, sources, deadline. 3) Review bids from writers and choose one. 4) Receive the paper and review for quality. 5) Request revisions until satisfied. It emphasizes original, high-quality content and refunds for plagiarized work.
The 25 Best Persuasive Writing Prompts Ideas On PiJoaquin Hamad
The document discusses the process of purchasing and implementing a student management system for the Jefferson County School System (JCSS). JCSS is one of the largest school systems in the US, serving around 10,000 students across multiple elementary, middle, and high schools. In 1976, JCSS purchased a DEC PDP 11/34 computer to develop student management, financial, and other applications. Currently, JCSS uses four Dell servers running UNIX connected by a high-speed network. Previously, all applications were developed internally by the director of data processing and two programmers. A new superintendent, Dr. Harvey Greene, was recently hired and plans to modernize the student management system.
Napoleon was a great military leader who modernized the French army and established the Napoleonic Code. He rose to power as a general during the French Revolution and established himself as emperor of France through a series of military victories across Europe. However, his overconfidence led to his downfall, as he was eventually defeated and exiled due to overextending his armies.
1. The document provides instructions for requesting writing assistance on HelpWriting.net in 5 steps: register for an account, complete an order form with instructions and deadline, review bids from writers and choose one, authorize payment after receiving a satisfactory paper, and request revisions if needed.
2. It explains that the platform uses a bidding system where writers submit bids to take on writing assignments, and clients can choose a writer based on qualifications, history, and feedback.
3. Clients can request revisions to ensure satisfaction, and HelpWriting.net promises original, high-quality work with a full refund option for plagiarism.
The document discusses steps to request writing assistance from HelpWriting.net:
1. Create an account with a password and email.
2. Complete a 10-minute order form providing instructions, sources, deadline, and attaching a sample for style imitation.
3. Review bids from writers for the request based on qualifications, history, and feedback, then pay a deposit to start.
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005 How To Write An Academic Essay ExampleJoaquin Hamad
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it describes the bony anatomy including the femoral head , acetabulum, labrum . also discusses the capsule , ligaments . muscle that act on the hip joint and the range of motion are outlined. factors affecting hip joint stability and weight transmission through the joint are summarized.
1. The pdf of your paper in A Stitch in Time: Essays in Honour of Lise Bender Jørgensen may
not be published on the Internet until three years from publication (June 2017), unless the site
is a limited access intranet (password protected).
2. i
A Stitch in Time
Essays in Honour of Lise Bender Jørgensen
3. ii
GOTHENBURG UNIVERSITY
Department of Historical Studies
GOTARC SERIES A. GOTHENBURG ARCHAEOLOGICAL STUDIES
ISSN1403-8293
No 4. A Stitch in Time: Essays in Honour of Lise Bender Jørgensen
Red. Sophie Bergerbrant and Sølvi Helene Fossøy
Printing: Reprocentralen, Humanities Department, Gothenburg University, 2014
Layout: Rich Potter
Cover: Rich Potter
ISBN 978-91-85245-56-9
4. iii
Preface
he idea for this festschrift began with Antointte Rast-Eicher, who compiled
the list of contributors and participated in the early stages of producing the
volume. Unfortunately she was unable to contribute to the main work with
the volume due to other commitments. However, we want to thank her for her
initiative.
his book could not have been printed without the inancial support from
Sparebanken Midt-Norges gavefond til Norges Teknisk-Naturvitenskaplige
Universitet; Department of Historical Studies, Gothenburg University and the
Department of Historical Studies, Norwegian University of Technology and
Science. Dr Kristin Bornholdt Collins consulted on language-related issues and
assisted with proofreading and revision, and we are grateful for all her help
and language support through the various stages of producing the book. We
would also like to thank Ragnhild Berge for helping us in Trondheim; Lena
Hammarlund for consultations on terminology; Ulla Mannering for tracking
down photographs of Lise; and Karina Grömer for providing an excellent
opportunity to present the book.
here is no Tabula Gratulatore in this book; this is due to Lise’s vast network
of colleagues and friends within so many ields and countries. How could we
possibly reach them all, and where would the line be drawn? It therefore seemed
preferable to concentrate on the actual content, and to produce a worthy tribute
honouring Lise for decades of hard work and her important role as a pioneer in
textile research. It comes with heartfelt gratitude, admiration and best wishes
from all of her colleagues and friends, naming none but including all.
With this festschrift, the editors, authors, colleagues, friends and all the
individuals at supporting institutions wish Professor Lise Bender Jørgensen a
somewhat belated Happy 65th
Birthday. he opportunity to present the book at
the 2014 NESAT conference was too good to be missed.
Gothenburg and Drammen, 2014-03-03
6. v
A Stitch in Time
Sophie Bergerbrant
vii
he red thread
Lotte Hedeager
xi
Lise Bender Jørgensen: research in textiles
Antoinette Rast-Eicher
xv
Bibliography of Lise Bender Jørgensen’s publications
Antoinette Rast-Eicher and Sølvi Helene Fossøy
xix
Science, heory, Methodology and Prehistoric Textiles
Experimental soil burial studies for archaeological textile preservation and research
– a review
Elizabeth E. Peacock
1
Implications of a web - considerations of a crat-oriented research perspective
Ulla Isabel Zagal-Mach Wolfe
23
Speciality ibres for special textiles
Antoinette Rast-Eicher
43
Prehistoric textile patterns: transfer with obstruction
Johanna Banck-Burgess
63
A rich seam: stitching as a means of interpreting Bronze Age textile fragments
Sølvi Helene Fossøy
77
Tacit knowledge and the interpretation of archaeological tablet-woven textiles
Lise Ræder Knudsen
91
he holistic nature of textile knowledge: fulling cloth in the sea
Carol Christiansen & Lena Hammarlund
111
Social Aspects of Prehistoric Textiles
Out of the dark… New textile inds from Hallstatt
Karina Grömer, Helga Rösel-Mautendorfer and Hans Reschreiter
129
Contents
7. vi
Italian textiles from prehistory to Late Antique times
Margarita Gleba
145
Wool fabrics from Arditurri Roman mines, Oiartzun (Basque Country, Spain)
C. Alfaro Giner
171
A well-preserved household textile from Roman Egypt
Hero Granger-Taylor and Karen Finch
189
hrough Roman eyes: cotton textiles from Early Historic India
John-Peter Wild and Felicity Wild
209
Tools of textile production in Roman Iron Age burials and settlements on Funen,
Denmark
Sophie Bergerbrant
Cloth, clothing and Anglo-Saxon women
Penelope Walton Rogers
237
253
he textile interior in the Oseberg burial chamber
Marianne Vedeler
281
An exceptional woman from Birka
Eva Andersson Strand and Ulla Mannering
301
2/2 Herringbone twill fabrics in Early Medieval Poland: Imports or local production?
Maria Cybulska and Jerzy Maik
Textiles of iteenth- to seventeenth-century layers from Heidelberg and Kempten,
Germany
Klaus Tidow, Textilingenieur, Boostedt
317
331
1
8. 301
An exceptional woman from Birka
Eva Andersson Strand and Ulla Mannering,
Copenhagen University
Introduction
Archaeological textile research is a constantly evolving ield of research, and
in this book and present article we honour Lise Bender Jørgensen, one of
the key researchers in North European textile research. he impact of her
impressive scholarly contributions during a lifetime spent in Danish, Swedish
and Norwegian universities cannot be underestimated. Lise Bender Jørgensen
is a true pioneer. She has introduced new standards and parameters for textile
research, and in both her academic research and career has crossed the modern
geographical borders that too often restrict true interdisciplinary and cross-
cultural studies. hrough the numerous excellent examples of textile analyses
and methodologies published by Lise Bender Jørgensen an entire generation
has been taught how to conduct archaeological textile research. he present
authors have collaborated with Lise Bender Jørgensen in a variety of ways,
most importantly in 2006 when Lise Bender Jørgensen was guest professor at
the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research (CTR)
in its irst year.
One of the highly crucial results that has emerged from the research conducted
at CTR since 2005 is the increased focus on how scientiic analysis can widen
our perspectives of past technologies. Textile research is not merely the study
of actual textile remains but covers all aspects of manufacture from producing
the raw material of both skin and ibres to the inal products, as well as
examining iconography and literary sources with the help of theoretical and
methodological perspectives. In this article we explore textiles from Viking Age
Birka, an important trading and craft production centre that is considered to
be one of Scandinavia’s earliest towns, in order to demonstrate the potential of
textile research when applied to a material utilizing diferent approaches.
Textiles and Birka
Birka is well known among textile scholars. Analyses of the approximately 4800
preserved textile fragments by Agnes Geijer and Inga Hägg yielded unique
knowledge of Viking Age costumes as well as textile raw materials, techniques
and manufacture (e.g. Geijer 1938, 1965, 1980; Hägg 1974, 1984, 1986).
he textiles from Birka are primarily found in burials like the rich chamber
graves. Although only a minor part of the preserved textiles have been hitherto
analysed, they represent an invaluable source of information about Viking Age
9. Eva Andersson Strand and Ulla Mannering
302
textiles in Scandinavia. hus, the analyses have demonstrated textiles made
using various techniques and in qualities ranging from very coarse to exclusive
fabrics created using complicated techniques and with many threads per
centimetre. he materials used were primarily wool and lax, but new materials
like silk, gold and silver threads were also utilized. A remarkable characteristic of
the high quality textiles that Birka is renowned for is that they have a uniform
standard in regard to material and manufacture. Until recently it was believed
among textile scholars that no organized textile production took place in Birka
(Geijer 2006; Bender Jørgensen 1986: 168). Where the textiles were produced
and imported from has been discussed on numerous occasions over the years
(e.g. Geijer 1938, 1965, 1980; Hald 1980; Hofmann 1964; Ingstad 1980; Hägg
1974, 1984, 1986; Bender Jørgensen 1986, 1987). However, a study of the c.
2500 preserved textile tools, primarily from the settlement area (also called the
Black Earth) contradicts those assumptions. he analyses of the textile tools,
e.g. spindle whorls, loom weights and needles indicates that textile production
in Birka was extensive and varied. Although imported textiles and raw materials
also occur, the inhabitants of Birka produced many diferent types of textiles,
from the most exclusive cloths to coarser fabrics. his is clearly contrary to
the previous assumption that indigenous textile production in Birka comprised
only coarse wool cloth of poor quality. hus, it is evident that the people of
Birka possessed tools for making all the types of wool and linen cloth found in
the graves (Andersson 2003; Andersson Strand 2011).
EvenifthetextilesfromBirkaarewellknowntotextileresearchers,thetextileshave
rarely been placed in a wider context and discussed from a general archaeological
perspective. he graves represent a population of young and old, men and women
and together with the textiles they can provide crucial information to enhance
our knowledge of Viking Age society and also the lives of individuals at the time.
According to Ann-Soie Gräslund ‘Ideology can be explained as a conscious,
coherent view of life and society whereas mentality could be explained as a set
of unconscious, or perhaps conscious but unarticulated attitudes and values
common for a society or a group of people’ (Gräslund 2001:142). Furthermore,
she considers ideology to be relatively connected to class identity while
mentalities concern everybody (Gräslund 2001: 11). Additionally, a burial
custom can be characterized as part of a grave language and signiicant for the
persona of the dead but also an activator of norms and values, memories and
traditions, networking and regeneration, as well as religion and mentality in
everydaylife(Jennbert1988,2006).Materialculturealwayscontainsameaning
andthegraveisakindofmontageoflifestyleattributesandaritualizationofthe
dead within the landscape of the nearby farms and villages. hese aspects will
be considered below where the woman buried in Birka grave 943 is considered.
In order to discover more about her we will combine knowledge from context
analyses obtained from the study of the preserved textiles and information
gleaned from the other objects from this special and rich grave.
11. Eva Andersson Strand and Ulla Mannering
304
Raw materials, such as salt and amber were imported while iron and fur were
exported. In the later phase, it is evident that Birka’s structure and role had
undergonechange.henetworkbecamemoreextensiveandtradingexpeditions
reached far to the East, for example, to Kiev and Constantinople, and trade
with silver, slaves and prestige items grew in prominence (Ambrosiani 2005).
his extensive organization must have required a structure that included rich
and powerful traders and their families with contact with to other traders in
contemporarytowns.Evenifthekingsandchieftainscontinuedtobeinluential
in the Mälar Valley, it has been suggested that in fact it was the trading families
who possessed real power in the town, and it is likely that Birka became more
autonomous in the late phase (Hedenstierna-Jonson 2012: 214-215).
he Birka settlement consisted of diferent types of buildings, e.g. longhouses,
but more commonly smaller houses (8x5 m) with, in general, two rooms. he
larger room was used as living quarters with a ireplace while the smaller room
was often used as a workshop or a booth. Plots were laid out throughout the
town and these houses were adjusted to this plan (Ambrosiani 2012: 16). In the
tenth century, around AD 950, the town had expanded to such an extent that
a new rampart was built outside an older one. here was a fort and a garrison
Fig. 2 Map of Björkö and Birka (Ater Ambrosiani & Erikson 1992).
12. An exceptional woman from Birka
305
area alongside the settlement area (Fig. 2). his area was also surrounded
with a rampart and had several building phases (Holmquist Olausson 2001;
Zachrisson 2011, 2012). Evidence for textile production comes from the entire
settlement area, including the garrison, and in all periods, although no direct
evidence for textile workshops has hitherto been found (Andersson 2003).
In the early phase the population of Birka has been estimated to a couple of
hundred, while more than 1000 individuals lived there in the later phase. he
social structure of the Birka population has also been discussed by several
scholars (e.g. Gräslund 1980; Hägg 1984; Hedenstierna-Jonson 2012) and
according to Rimbert’s statement there were chieftains, rich merchants,
craftspeople, ordinary people and slaves in Birka. Gräslund sums up her analysis
of the graves by observing that, ‘he other chamber graves demonstrate by their
construction that the deceased belonged to a high social stratum. It is likely that
all these were burials of chieftains and their families as well as merchants, either
local or from other Scandinavian areas or from countries outside Scandinavia’
(Gräslund 1980:86).
he number of graves outside the settlement area have been estimated to
between 2300 (Gräslund 1980:4) to 3000 (Ambrosiani & Clarke 1992:73).
Furthermore, several of the burials are double graves containing more than one
person. Around 1160 graves have been excavated, comprising 556 cremation
gravesand119chambergraves,withtherestbeinginhumationgraves(Gräslund
1980:27, 50). he grave goods in several burials attest to great wealth. he
identiication of gender is diicult due to the lack of human remains and only
in 416 graves has the gender of the deceased been archaeologically identiied.
Of these, 58% of the inhumation graves and 61% of the cremation graves were
female (Gräslund 1980:82).
Grave 943
Grave 943 was a large chamber grave, 2.15 x 1.6 m, located in the largest grave
ield, Hemlanden, on Björkö (Arbman 1943) (Fig. 3). he majority of the graves
were situated outside the rampart. However, some graves were found under
the rampart (dated to a period before the rampart was built) while others were
placed inside the rampart. Among the latter is a group of chamber graves dated
to Birka’s late phase. Regrettably, it is not known where grave 943 was situated
because the grave is not marked on nineteenth-century excavation plans,
but it has been suggested that it might have been located inside the rampart
(Kyhlberg 1980).
he chamber was oriented W. + 5° - S. + E. +5° N and the grave has been
archaeologically dated to the tenth century. he grave was excavated by Hjalmar
Stolpe in the second half of the nineteenth century, and according to his notes,
there were no visible marks above ground at the time of the excavation. Nothing
13. Eva Andersson Strand and Ulla Mannering
306
Fig. 3 Plan of Grave 943 (Ater Arbman 1943, Abb. 318).
of the skeleton was preserved at the time of excavation and it is therefore not
possible toidentifyitsgender.However,the type of objects in the grave, especially
the jewellery, e.g. the oval brooches and necklace, indicate that it is a female burial
and we have therefore decided to refer to the deceased as a woman.
Some of her jewellery has a practical function for use in dress while other pieces
are more decorative (Table 1). One noteworthy example is the necklace with
19 beads and several pendants. he diferent types of beads are all of excellent
quality and made of materials such as glass, amber, silver and gold foil. Five
pendants made of two coins and three oriental mounts were also parts of the
necklace. During the Viking Age, it was not unusual for coins to be transformed
from monetary objects into ornaments such as pendants, and the coins
from this grave indicate both eastern and western contacts (Arbman 1943;
Arwidsson 1989). Other possible items from the grave are a wooden bowl with
silver mounts and a small chest and four spurs.
Diferent types of crafts are represented through the objects in the grave. he
knife is a multifunctional tool used in everyday life, while the scissors and the
needle box indicate some kind of textile production. It is not likely that the
pair of scissors, since it is quite small, was used for shearing sheep, but it could
have been used for cutting fabrics. he ine needles that could have been kept
14. An exceptional woman from Birka
307
in the needle box must have been used for sewing ine fabrics. hus, these
tools are primarily related to production of garments rather than production
of textiles. he items from a small bag, such as amber pendants, raw amber
stones and iron awls indicate knowledge of amber carving. he amber may have
been imported or brought to Birka by the woman herself. Perhaps she herself
worked with amber and produced pendants and beads, although they could
also represent something else, for example trade. However, the combination
of objects clearly indicates production and not just a connection to trade or
exchange. It is certainly plausible that the woman also actively participated in
trade during the Viking Age (Stalsberg 1991:79). he weights, and perhaps also
the fragment of a Dirham coin, support this interpretation, and it is likely that
the woman in grave 943 was a trader or held a powerful position in one of the
trading houses/families based in Birka.
1. Two oval brooches, double shell, bronze gilded with gold and silver (3.1).
2. Two disc brooches – bronze, gilded with gold and decorated with zoomorphic ornaments
(3.2 and 3.3).
3. Several small pendants (318.4): two Scandinavian coins (a Birka coin and a Hedeby half-brac-
teate), a piece of glass from a beaker wrapped in silver wire and 3 heart-shaped oriental
mounts that have been reshaped into pendants.
4. 19 beads made of e.g. glass, gold foil, silver foil and amber (3.5).
5. Two oriental silver mounts gilded with gold.
6. Two round silver pendants gilded with gold decorated with iligree and granulation.
7. A fragment of a wooden bowl with a silver mount (3.7).
8. A possible leather or textile bag (only fragments of bronze mount are preserved) with amber
pendants shaped as a hor’s hammer, a schist pendant, amber beads, raw amber stones, iron
awl and a small iron ring.
9. A pair of iron scissors (3.9).
10. A penannular brooch.
11. A (fragmented) leather purse with silver mounts with a ¼ of a Samanid dirham struck by
Ahmad ibn Ismail II dated to 907/8-911/12 (295-299 n.), a western European silver coin (?),
a glass bead.
12. Four weights, two of iron and two of bronze of which one has a cubo-octahedral shape.
13. A needle box of bronze (3.15).
14. A whetstone (3.18).
15. Two iron knives (3.19 and 3.22), one with fragments of a leather case.
16. Two iron lock mountings (3.12) with a small part of preserved wood.
17. A glass bead (318.13).
18. Four iron spurs (318.20).
19. An iron fragment (318.21).
In the NE part of the grave at a depth of 0.3 m, some objects were found: a pair of iron scissors, an
iron nail and three iron fragments.
Table 1 he objects from Grave 943 (Arbman 1940, 1943).
16. An exceptional woman from Birka
309
he grave contains textile fragments from at least four diferent textiles in
diferent weaves and materials, as well as a variety of tablet-woven bands and
other decorative elements. hree of the recorded weaves are diferent tabby
textiles; one in linen, another in wool and a third combining both materials
(Table 2). he irst two are balanced weaves with diferent thread counts and
thread thicknesses, and are thus easy to distinguish. he third is a wool rep
weave with a clear imbalance in the thread count. his weave is also unusual as
it has a pattern of parallel diagonal lines applied with a yarn in a contrasting
light colour. his yarn is thicker than the one used for the ground weave and
has previously been identiied as being of lax. he pattern has most likely been
inserted after the weaving of the ground weave, probably with the help of a
needle, as it is only visible on one side of the textile. Both tabbies were located
on top of the large circular brooch, which was placed on the chest below the
oval brooches, indicating that they belonged to outer garments or top covers
in the grave (Hägg 1974:6, 83). he ine linen tabby was identiied by Hägg as
belonging to a pleated undergarment, which is a typical element in the tenth-
century Birka costume tradition (Hägg 1974:16-17). he weave is present in
a mineralized stage on the oval brooches and in several lose lumps of textiles.
Further, it is present on the small disc brooch which was placed between the
oval brooches. his kind of brooch is traditionally interpreted as being utilized
to close a front opening in an undergarment.
Another fabric encountered among the textile fragments from Grave 943 is
a very ine 2/2 wool diamond twill (Table 2), which Hägg also mentions but
does not describe further (Hägg 1974:79-80). Although this kind of weave is
the most frequent type used for overgarments like the strap dress, Hägg does
not record it as belonging to this type of garment. his is probably due to the
lack of any remains of the diamond weave on the back of the oval brooches, the
jewellery that traditionally is known to have fastened the dress. Instead, this
weave is linked to Hägg’s group of other possible costume items, such as tunics
and jackets. Furthermore, Hägg suggests that the diamond twill could have
been sewn to a silk textile also recorded in the grave (Hägg 1974:80) (Table 2).
Textile
Binding
hread
count/cm
hread
diameter/
mm
Twist
direction
warp/wet
Fibre type
based on
Geijer 1938
Geijer’s (1938)
classiication
Hägg’s (1974)
classiication
Tabby 16/20 0.3/0.5 z/z Linen Not recorded Under garment
Tabby 7/4 1.0/1.5 z/s Wool W3 (Taf. 7,4) Blanket
Rep tabby
with pattern
24/7 0.5/0.8 z/s Wool with
linen threads
M7 (Taf. 11,7)
2/2 diamond
twill
16/~38 0.3/0.3 z/z Wool Not recorded Tunic (W10)
he ibre identiications are based on Geijer 1938 and a visual identiication, as ibre samples
could not been taken.
Table 2 Technical description of the diferent weaves in Grave 943.
17. Eva Andersson Strand and Ulla Mannering
310
During the re-examination of the textile fragments from Grave 943, no seams
joiningthetwodiferenttextileswereidentiied,butcertainlythisinterpretation
cannot be excluded before all textile pieces have been thoroughly examined.
hus, according to Hägg’s interpretation, the diamond twill represents a tunic
worn over the linen undergarment. Compared to the other Birka graves, the
tunic would have been worn under the dress (Hägg 1974:80, 93). Remains of
the diamond weave found on the pair of scissors placed on the pelvis suggests
that this costume item reached at least to the hips.
he silk weave is one of the textiles which is mentioned but not precisely described
inanyofthepreviousanalyses.heweavecanbeclassiiedasasamite,whichcovers
thetechnicaltermweft-facedcompoundtwill(Geijer1938:62-63).Ithasweftloats
over three warps, and a more thorough examination of the weave would possibly
reveal the existence of texture or colour patterns. he warp consists of two parallel
z-twisted threads and the weft of thicker non-twisted single yarns. According to
Hägg this textile could have been part of a decoration placed on the front of the
tunic as it occurs in several other Birka graves (Hägg 1974:80).
Both the diamond twill and the silk weave are connected to at least two diferent
kinds of tablet-woven silk bands with woven-in silver threads (Arbman
1943:366; Geijer 1938:86, 88). he irst is found underneath the largest of the
disc brooches on the chest of the deceased (Geijer 1938:170; Hägg 1974:79-
80). It is not known how long this silk tablet-woven band was when it was
recovered, but today it is broken into several pieces. he largest piece is 1.3 cm
wide and made of approximately 27 tablets, all Z-twisted in the same direction.
he silver thread pattern is very dense and lies only on one side of the band.
A second type of tablet-woven band in silk with silver threads was also located
on the chest in close contact with the large disc brooch. he band has a slightly
diferent pattern with decorative side panels. It measures 0.9 cm in width
and has both Z- and S-twisted tablets. According to drawings and Geijer’s
description (Arbman 1943:366, ig. 318; Geijer 1938:170), a long tablet-woven
band possibly more than 20 cm long was recorded on the pelvis close to the
scissors where the diamond twill was recorded. his band is not recorded by
Geijer or Hägg, and it is uncertain whether it was subsequently lost, or it can
still be located among the textile fragments from Grave 943. Only further
analyses can solve this problem.
Finally, a third kind of tablet-woven band was found at the head of the deceased.
It is 1.0 cm wide and preserved at a length of c. 25 cm. It is made of 17 tablets all
Z-twisted and has 18 wefts per cm. he material is silk with a woven-in pattern
in silver thread. Geijer describes that this band was sewn onto a silk fabric, but
today the textile is barely visible under the band and therefore further details
could not be extracted. It is most likely that the band belonged to a kind of silk
head covering or veil (Geijer 1938: 88; Hägg 1974:79).
19. Eva Andersson Strand and Ulla Mannering
312
local fashion. On the other hand, the use of oval brooches in connection with a
possible strap dress seems to have been a quite old-fashioned style at this stage.
he new fashion trend in the Late Viking Age period would have comprised a long,
tailored and close-itting two layered dress without the use of brooches, as seen
among the costume fragments from Hedeby, or in several high status graves from
Denmark (Elsner 1989; Hedeager Krag & Ræder Knudsen 1999; Pentz et al. 2009).
The woman
he grave language in grave 943 demonstrates a wealthy and inluential woman
with a large network outside Birka and Björkö. She was dressed in a costume
made of various, exclusive fabrics that are likely to have been rather costly.
However, the design of the outit in which she was buried is based on a quite
old costume tradition which at this time was undergoing a process of gradual
change. Was it a deliberate choice by her or her family to be buried in this
traditional and possibly old-fashioned outit? Was this the elite costume that
stated her position in society, and was this an everyday outit?
he needle box and scissors could indicate that she produced the garment
herself but on the other hand, these items could also be seen as markers for
general female virtues and responsibilities. Collectively, the jewellery deposited
in the grave demonstrates a large network, from the Caliphate in the East to
the far West. he combination of craft and trade activities is crucial as is the
discussion of whether these activities represent the woman or her family. Was
she an amber carver who travelled around and traded her products or do the
items indicate that she was a member of a wealthy and important trading house
that was involved in both craft production and trade? hese questions will not
be answered in the present article and further studies and comparison with
other materials are necessary for future discussions. Moreover, there are no
clear attributes in the grave indicating a speciic religion or belief. According to
Gräslund, the east-west orientation of the grave is not evidence for a Christian
burial tradition (Gräslund 1980). One of the small amber pendants which is
shaped as a hor’s hammer indicates a pagan inclination, but it is uncertain
whether this represents a personal belief or is solely connected to the amber
carving craft represented in the grave. Nor do we know if the woman buried
in Grave 943 was native to Birka or from another region, but it was certainly a
very richly equipped grave, and provides important insights into the ideology
of how the elite should be buried (Price 2012).
According to our interpretation, there is no doubt that this woman was of
signiicance in her society, and the equipment in the grave, including the
textiles, enhances our knowledge of Birka’s society, ideology and mentality. he
grave thus reveals a woman with multiple duties and responsibilities in Viking
Age society. She must have been exceptional in her time and she continues to
be exceptional in our eyes.
20. An exceptional woman from Birka
313
Acknowledgments
he authors kindly thank Björn Ambrosiani for useful and constructive
comments, and Cherine Munkholt for proofreading. We also thank Mari-Louise
Franzén and Charlotte Heidenstierna-Jonson for access to the Birka collection
at the Swedish History Museum, Stockholm. his article was written with
support from the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile
Research, DNRF64.
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