All content of this slide is not mine. Totally copy paste from Understanding Textiles for a Merchandiser-Shah Alimuzzaman Belal and Fabric Structure & Design-N.Gokarnishan, also from various websites. I am just collect and rearrange them. Nurunnabi Lecturer National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research

2. Reference Books:

3. All content of this slide is not mine. Totally copy paste from Understanding Textiles for a
Merchandiser-Shah Alimuzzaman Belal and Fabric Structure & Design-N.Gokarnishan, also from
various websites.
I am just collect and rearrange them.
-Nurunnabi

4. Contents
1.Introduction
2.Plain Weave
3.Twill Weave
4.Satin/Sateen
5.Figuring with Extra Threads
6.Double Cloth
7.Fancy Design
8.Color & Weave Effect
9.Basic Warp & Weft knitting structure.

5. Introduction to Fabric Structure & Design
A woven cloth is formed by the interlacement of two sets of threads, namely, warp and weft threads.
These threads are interlaced with one another according to the type of weave or design. The warp
threads are those that run longitudinally along the length of the fabric and the weft threads are those that
run transversely across the fabric. For the sake of convenience the warp threads are termed as ends and
the weft as picks or fillings.
Classification of Woven Structure:
Woven structures are classified into the following categories:
(i) Simple structures
(ii) Compound structures
In case of simple structures, there is only one series of warp and weft threads. These threads interlace
with one another perpendicularly. All the neighbouring warp and weft threads are parallel to one another
and play an equally important role in determining the properties of the fabric.
In case of compound structures, there may be more than one series threads, of which one set forms the
body or ground and the other forms the figuring or ornamentation. Unlike the simple structures, the
neighbouring threads need not be parallel to one another.

13. Basic Elements of a Woven Design:
The three basic elements in a woven design are :
(i) Design
(ii) Draft or drawing plan
(iii) Peg or lifting plan

15. Curved Draft

16. Combined Draft
Methods of Indicating Drafts:
1.By Numbering
2.By ruling line
3.By graph

19. Three Basic Weave
1.Plain
2.Twill
3.Satin/Sateen

21. Plain Weave
Introduction
The plain weave is variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weave. It is the simplest of all weaves
having a repeat size of 2. The range of application of this weave is wide.
The plain weave has the following characteristics :
(i) It has the maximum number of binding points
(ii) The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.
(iii) The thread density is limited
(iv) Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited.
(v) It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple combination of
threads, excepting that of “gauze”or “cross weaving”.

22. End Uses:
Plain weave finds extensive uses. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhothi, saree, shirting,
suiting, etc.

23. Classifications of Plain cloth:
1.Approximately plain cloth
2.Warpfaced cloth
3.Weftfaced cloth
4.Balanced cloth
5.Unbalanced cloth

25. Warp rib:
Weft rib:

32. Introduction:
Twill weaves are the weaves that find a wide range of application. They can be constructed in a variety
of ways. The main feature of these weaves that distinguishes from other types is the presence of
pronounced diagonal lines that run along the width of the fabric.
The basic characteristics of twill weaves are :
(i) They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to another.
(ii) More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.
(iii) Less binding points than plain cloth
(iv) Better cover than plain weave
(v) More cloth thickness and mass per unit area.

46. End Uses of Twill Weaves
Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khakhi
uniforms, denim cloth, blankets,shirtings, hangings and soft
furnishings.

49. Warp Satin(Satin)

56. 1.Odd number
2.Even number

65. 1. End and end coloring
1/1 plain(1:1)
2.Continious line effect
2/2 twill(2:2)
3.Hair lines
2/2(2) matt (2:2)
4.Crowsfoot
1/1 plain(2:2)
2/2(2) matt(4:4)
5.Dogs tooth/Hounds tooth
2/2 twill(4:4)
6.Shepards Check
2/2 twill(6:6)
7.Allover effect
4/4 twill (6:6)
8.Birds eye
9.Stepped

69. Figuring with extra weft threads

81. Miscellaneous
1.What is the difference between ordinary honeycomb and Brighton honeycomb?
The main features of ordinary honeycomb
are as follows –
❑· In repeat size, ends and picks are equal
or unequal.
❑· Repeat size is multiple of two.
❑· Smallest repeat size is 6 X 4.
❑· One cell in each repeat.
❑· V – draft or pointed draft is found.
❑· Simple construction.
The main features of Brighton honeycomb are as follows –
❑· More honeycomb cells of varying size are produced in this
weave.
❑· When making the weave, the number of threads per repeat
should always be a multiple of (i.e. 12 ends X 12 picks), whilst
the longest float should always be one less than half the
number of threads in the repeat (i.e. 12/2 – 1 = 5).
❑· Straight drafting system is used to produce this brighton
honeycomb weave.

84. Warp Rib Weave Weft Rib Weave
1. It produces rib or cord
effect in the weft direction.
1. It produces rib or cord
effect in the warp
direction.
2. Fiber yarn used as
warp and coarser as weft.
2. Finer yarn used as weft
and coarser as warp.
3. The number of ends
are more than the number
of picks in the unit space.
3. The number of picks is
more than the number of
ends in unit space.
4. Warp yarn single yarn
and weft yarn bundle
yarn.
4. Weft yarn single yarn
and warp yarn bundle
yarn.
5. Two or more weft yarns
are passed over or under
a warp yarn.
5. Two or more warp yarn
is passed over or under a
weft.
6. The ends interlace with
the picks.
6. The picks interlace with
the ends.
The difference between warp rib weave and weft rib weave are given below:

85. Difference between honeycomb & sponge weave:
honeycomb sponge
1.Plain Interlacing 1.Sateen Interlacing
2.Having 2 or 4 diamond 2.Having more than2 or 4 diamond
3.Pointed draft 3.Straight draft
4.Smallest design(6×4) 4.Smallest design(10×10)
motif repeat
1.A small design that follow a big design 1.Repeat the whole design
2.Reprasent a big design 2. Repeat the whole design
3.Can be produce as per wish 3.Not be produce as per wish
4.A big design can contains a number of
motif
4.A big design can contains only one
motif
5.Can be any shape 5.Square
Difference between motif & repeat

86. Satin Sateen
Durability
Derived mostly from silk, polyester, and nylon or the combination of
the three
Gives off luxurious quality
Silky and smooth
Derived usually from cotton
Features a tough and durable material
Has a lustrous sheen
Showcases a lavish quality
Comfort and
Breathability
Comfortable and lightweight
Breathable
Stays cool when it’s hot if made from silk
Keeps you warm when it’s cold
Comfortable to sleep in
Breathable
Provides ample warmth during cold days and
optimal coolness during hot temperatures
Health
Has reduced friction
Prevents hair breakage and skin allergies
Hypoallergenic
Resists mildew, mold, dust mites
Not as smooth and silky as satin
Provides benefits to the hair and skin
Hypoallergenic
Resists mildew and mold
Maintenance
Should be handled and washed with extra care
Not always machine washable
Recommended to be dry-cleaned or hand washed at times
Does not require intricate maintenance
Easy to wash
Machine washable
Easy to store
Cost
Has affordable options
High-quality silk sheets tend to be costly
Has affordable options and some more expensive
depending on the fabric
Satin vs Sateen Comparison Table

87. Satin Sateen
1.Warp faced 1.Weft faced
2.EPI>PPI 2.EPI<PPI
3.Ends Count>Picks Count 3.Ends Count<Picks Count
4.Ends are high quality 4.Picks are high quality
5.Produce by dobby 5.Produce by Tappet

88. Weft and Warp Knitted structure
Single jersey derivatives

99. https://textilestudycenter.blogspot.com/2015/10/fabric-structure-design-i-question-bank.html
https://textilestudycenter.com/colio/fabric-structure-and-design-ii-question-bank-butex/
Sample Questions Paper