1. Welcome to the presentation
on Fabric Structure and Design
Lecture 11
Presented by
Tamanna Hasan
Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering,
World University of Bangladesh.
2. Fancy Weaves
Types of fancy weaves:
1. Mock leno / limitation gauge weave.
2. Hucka back.
3. Honey comb.
a. Ordinary Honey comb.
b. Brighton Honey comb.
4. Distorted thread effect.
a. Warp distorted thread effect.
b. Weft distorted thread effect.
5. Crepe weave.
6. Bed cord.
7. Pique.
3. Mock Leno
1. Mock leno / limitation gauge weave:
Feature:
a. The produced fabric is as like net / perforated.
b. Surface of this fabric is rough.
c. Repeat size is always even number such as 8 X 8, 10 X 10, 16 X 16 etc.
d. Mock leno weave can be produced without using leno heald.
e. Smallest repeat size 6 X 6.
f. This weave can be divided into two equal parts diagonally.
Uses:
Used for curtain and under clothing, and decorative purposes.
Used in embroidery cloths, canvas cloths and light-wt window curtains, roller towels.
Used in combination with plain weave for decorative purposes. i.e. brocades, blouses, dress
wear, table liner.
Mostly used for towels for good water absorbency power.
4. Hucka Back
2. Hucka back:
i. Rough surface which is produced by floating threads in groups arranged on a plain weave
basis.
ii. Good moisture absorbency due to long floating.
iii. Fabric is look like skin of snake.
iv. A more balanced Hucka back is produced if the weave repeat size is twice an odd number i.e.
2 X 5 = 10; repeat size 10 X 10.
v. It is by no means impossible to produce the weave on a repeat which is complete on twice an
even no. of threads.
vi. Smallest or widely used repeat size 10 X 10.
vii. Hucka back are symmetrical about their diagonal axis.
viii. The stiffness of this fabric is good.
ix. 10 X 6 Hucka back is one of the standard weave of this type. It is known as Devon Hucka back.
5. Uses of Hucka Back
Uses:
Hard weaving qualities.
Glass cloth.
Linen and cotton towels.
Shirting, dress wear, table linen.
Good moisture pick up.
Hand towels.
6. Honey Comb ( Ordinary)
Features:
a. Ordinary Honey comb:
i. Surface of produced fabric is rough.
ii. Similar appearance or effect formed in both sides of the fabric.
iii. In repeat size, ends and picks are equal or un equal.
iv. Repeat size is multiple of 2.
v. Smallest repeat size 6 X 4.
vi. One cell in each repeat.
vii. V – draft or pointed draft is found.
viii. Alternate raised and sunk diamond – shaped areas which give the effect of a Honey comb.
ix. Construction – simple
7. Honey Comb ( Brighton)
Brighton Honey comb:
i) Rough surface.
ii) Similar appearance formed on both side of the fabric.
iii) It is designed to produce more Honey comb cells of varying size.
iv) In repeat, ends and picks are equal.
v) The no. of threads per repeat always should be multiple of four ( 8 X 8, 12 X 12, 16 X
16 ).
vi) Smallest repeat size 8 X 8.
8. Uses of Honey Comb
Uses:
i) Ordinary:
Hand towel, Glass cloth, Roller towel, Bath matt.
In similar coarse cotton, it is also used for quilts and soft furnishing.
In finer qualities for shirts and brocades.
Cellular blankets.
ii) Brighton:
Quilts, brocades, hand towels, glass cloths, roller towel, crockery towels etc.
