2. The Beginning of Textile
However, the modern textile industry took birth in India in the early nineteenth century
when the first textile mill in the country was established at fort Gloster near Calcutta in
1818. The cotton textile industry, however, made its real beginning in Bombay, in 1850s.
Here in this presentation, I am going to tell you about the story on Indian Textile.
In India there are different types of textiles being used. I will discuss the best of them in
this presentation.
3. Silk Fabric
The process of making silk is called sericulture, and it involves
harvesting silkworms for the material.
1. Larvae are fed mulberry leaves.
2. After they have moulted several times, they spin a cocoon. The
silk solidifies upon contact with air. This process takes about 2
to3 days.
3. Once the cocoon is formed, it is dropped into a pot of boiling
water effectively killing the pupae.
4. The silk filament is extracted by brushing the cocoon.
5. The raw silk is woven or knit into a fabric or spun into a yarn.
4. Banarasi Fabric
The loom is set up with the threads and the
process of weaving is began before which the
jacquard cards are fixed to the jacquard machine
and following the cards the threads are pulled and
the desired design and the saree is weaved. In
weaving warp, craftsmen build the base that runs
of the required length.
6. Types of Banarasi Fabric
Georgette: It is typically a plain weave fabric that is woven using tightly twisted s-twist and z-twist
yarns, which are yarns twisted in opposite directions. These twists create slight puckers on the surface of
the fabric, which gives Georgette its signature crinkled finish.
Georgette is a finely woven light fabric that is made of crepe yarn inter-woven with both warp and weft.
It is popular in designing salwar kameez outfit designs, Bollywood sarees, and designer sarees
Shattir: This fabric is used to produce beautiful contemporary and exclusive Banarasi saree designs
Organza: It is a richly woven fabric with the most beautiful Brocade patterns and designs that are made
by warp and weft. Gold-coated silver threads are woven around the silk yarns to produce zari brocade.
Katan: This is a plain fabric that has woven pure silk threads that make pure silk sarees. In the old days,
katan saree’s beautiful motifs and patterns were woven using handlooms but nowadays, they are
produced using rapid looms and power looms.
7. Woolen Fabric
The production of wool begins with the shearing of wool-bearing animals. Some
animals bear wool once per year, and others bear wool multiple times
throughout the year.
Next, the shorn wool is cleaned and sorted into bales. There are a variety of
ways to remove the greasy lanolin in raw wool, but most large wool producers
use chemical catalysts for this process.
Once the wool fibers are clean and sorted, they are carded, which is the process
of making the fibers into long strands. These carded strands are then spun into
yarn, and after a final washing, this yarn can be woven into garments and other
types of woolen textiles.
Lastly, the finished textiles may be exposed to a variety of post-production
processes to develop certain attributes. Fulling, for instance, is the immersion of
a wool textile in water to make the fibers interlock, and crabbing is the process
of permanently setting this interlock. Lastly, wool producers may decade their
products for shrink-proofing purposes, and rarely, they may also dye their
finished wool products.
8. Cotton Fabric
The fabric usually used in the clothes we wear is produced through two processes: the “spinning process,” where raw cotton
is turned into thread, and the “weaving process,” where the thread is woven into fabric. Here we will explain each process in
detail using some illustrations.
Spinning Process:
Weaving
Process
Carding Silver Lap Former Combing Drawing Roving
Spinning
Winding
10. Embroidery Fabric
It is a technique of surface ornamentation with
the use of colorful threads and needle. Kantha
stitch is one such famous form of embroidery of
West Bengal.
11. Satin Fabric
Fabrics made from satin weaves are more flexible, with better draping properties than plain
weaves, which allows them to form around composite curves, which is effective in producing
carbon-fiber combinations. In satin weaving, the fill yarn goes over multiple warp yarns
before interlacing under one warp yarn. Common satin weaves are:
4-Harness satin weave (4HS) is also called crowfoot satin, where the fill thread passes over
three warp yarns and one warp yarn underneath. It is more flexible than a plain weave.
5-Harness satin weave (5HS); where fill yarn goes over four warp yarns and then under one
warp yarn.
8-harness satin weave (8HS), where the fill yarn passes over seven warp yarns and then under
a warp yarn forms the smoothest satin is woven and very easily around the composite curve.
Types of Satin Fabric :
1. Charmeuse satin fabric
2. Duchess Satin fabric
3. Poly-satin fabric
12. Chickenkari Fabric
Chikankari is a delicate art of crafting intricate shadow and designer type of embroidery which was
usually performed on the white yarn initially or colorless muslin cloths which are called as tanzeb.
However, with the vastness in fabrics, georgette, cotton, chiffon etc. chikankari is done on all these and
more.
• Stages involved in making process are:
1. Block printing
2. Embroidery work
3. Washing
Block Printing: Initially, the design to be worked is printed on the plain fabric. The wooden block is
dipped in the color solution which is made by mixing glue and indigo. Then it is printed on the fabric.
There will be different blocks for butis, floral patterns and borders. In Lucknow, the printing process is
done by separate group of artisans who mainly concentrate in printing. The printed fabric is now ready for
the embroidery work.
Embroidery work: The embroidery is done over the printed design pattern using needle and thread. The
artisan creates traditional patterns using different techniques. Different types of stitches can be made in
one product.
Washing: Washing is the final stage of production process. The fabric after embroidery work is first
soaked in water and then washed to remove the block printed blue color. Then it is starched and ironed to
obtain stiffness. The final product is now ready for the market.
13. Net Fabric
Net or netting is any textile in which the yarns are
fused, looped or knotted at their intersections,
resulting in a fabric with open spaces between the
yarns. ... Depending on the type of yarn or filament
that is used to make up the textile, its characteristics
can vary from durable to not durable.
14. Tant Fabric
Tant is basically woven with locally procured
Bengal cotton. This fine handspun yarn results
in soft, feather-light muslin and mulmul textiles
that have been globally traded for ages now.
Depending on the yarn quality, the sari is fine
(combed cotton) or coarser (regular cotton).
