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PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE
Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal ,
pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlep...
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Weltandpiques

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Weltandpiques

  1. 1. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Welts and Piques These produce horizontal lines in the cloth. Welt structures produce only simple and cord lines in the horizontal directions whereas pique structures produce weave cord lines in the fabric. Pique - A typical pique structure consists of a plain face fabric composed of one series of warp and one series of weft threads, and a series of back or stitching warp threads. The stitching ends are placed on a separate beam which is very heavily weighted. At intervals, the tight stitching ends are interwoven into the plain face texture. This results in pulling down of the face texture and formation of an indentation of the surface. To increase the prominence of the unstitched portion of the cloth, wadding picks are inserted between the tight back stitching end and the slack face fabric. First we discuss about the welt structures Welt – The term is applied to those pique structures that have horizontally running cords. Number of ends is always 6 and number of picks is always an even number i.e. 6,8,10 etc. How to draw ordinary welt structure (Loose Back Welt Without Wadding) Let us draw an ordinary welt structure with a welt length of 4 picks. We need a 6 by 6 grid to represent this. Step 1: Draw a 6×6 grid and draw 1st, 3rd, 4th, 6th ends which are face ends as plain weave. It is indicated by dots (.) Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  2. 2. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Step 2: As the welt length is of 4 picks, leave the first four picks of 2nd and 4th end and raise 5th and 6th pick on stitching ends. This is ordinary welt structure. The cross sectional view is given in the side figure. Here the tight ends are only lifted to form the indentations, such type of structures are known as loose back structures. Loose Back Wadded welt structure: In wadded welt structure, wadded picks are inserted in the welt structure between plain ends and tight ends. Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  3. 3. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Suppose we want to insert wadded picks in the welt given above at the position as indicated by the arrows. Then the grid with wadded picks is as given Now to bind wadded picks, raise plain ends over wadded picks and drop stitching ends under wadded picks as given below: This completes the wadded welt structure. Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  4. 4. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Fast Back Wadded Welt Structure The term ‘fast back’ is applied to cloths in which the stitching ends are interwoven in plain order with all, or some wadding picks. It reduces the float length and produces a more serviceable cloth which is less liable to accidental damage. It is produced in the same way as the loose back wadded welt structure except that in this case the loose floats of stitching ends are stitched by raising stitching ends over wadded pics. The following figure gives an example of fast back welt with wadding picks. Waved Piques A waved pique is a simple modification of the welt structure in which the indentations are not horizontal line but are arranged in alternate groups. There are two types of picks in waved piques, the face picks and wadded picks. How to draw Piques on design paper Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  5. 5. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Let us take a motif presented by the figure given, which tells us the lifting of tight ends or stitching on face picks. We take arrangement as two plain ends to one tight end and 6 plain picks to 2 wadded picks. Thus we need to represent one repeat a total of (6x2+6)=18 ends and (12+4)=16 picks. Step 1 : Construct a grid of 18 ends and 16 picks. Mark it with plain ends, tight ends, face picks and wadded picks. Fill the plain ends and face picks in plain order as shown in the figure. Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  6. 6. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Step 2: Fill the plain ends and face picks in plain order Step 3: Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  7. 7. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Now raise tight ends or face picks according to the motif. Step 4: Now raise all face ends or plain ends on wadded picks. It is represented by (.) Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer
  8. 8. PRIYANK GOYAL’S LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com Create PDF with GO2PDF for free, if you wish to remove this line, click here to buy Virtual PDF Printer

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