1. The document provides instructions for assembling an electronic die kit, including listing the necessary parts and tools. 2. The procedures describe how to properly solder components like resistors, capacitors, LEDs, and an integrated circuit socket to the circuit board. 3. Once assembled, the die kit can be tested by connecting a battery and pressing a momentary switch, which should cause the LEDs to randomly light up in a die pattern.

1. DEVRY ECET 105 Week 2 iLab Soldering Techniques and the
Electronic Die Kit NEW
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I. OBJECTIVES
1. To learn the basics of soldering.
2. To produce mechanically and electrically sound solder joints.
3. To assemble the Electronic Die Kit.
II. PARTS LIST
Equipment:
Digital Die Kit
Tools:
1 – Soldering Iron
1 – Pair Long-Nose Pliers
1 – Diagonal cutter
1 – Solder and hookup wire
1 – Wire stripper
III. PROCEDURE
1. Preparation
2. Prepare a well-ventilated and clear workspace with ample
lighting.
3. Ensure that the workspace includes a mat to work on in

2. order to prevent the burning of the table or materials during
the process.
4. Use a tray, egg crate, or vegetable/fruit tray for all (but
especially the small) parts to avoid losing them. Attach the tray
with double-sided tape to your bench or desktop.
5. Have a waste basket or desktop trash receptacle handy.
6. Ensure that the sponge that accompanies the soldering iron
is sufficiently damp. The level of dampness needed is judged by
wetting the sponge and then squeezing out the excess water
until the sponge can be held in the hand with no noticeable
water dripping from it.
CAUTION:
In order to avoid injury to the eyes, goggles or other eye
protection must be worn AT ALL TIMES during the circuit
assembly and soldering process.
A soldering iron at temperature is very hot. It is a fire hazard. It
is a health hazard. Caution must be taken at all times to ensure
that contact with the skin does not occur.
6. Plug in the soldering iron and wait approximately five
minutes for the iron to heat to a proper temperature. The
temperature of the iron may be tested by lightly rubbing the tip
of the iron against the moist sponge. If a majority of water is
evaporated, then the iron is ready for use. The tip should be
kept clean and tinned for soldering. The sponge is used to wipe
away excess solder and materials. Tinning means that there is
always a thin layer of solder on the tip.
7. Procure and prepare the dice kit for soldering. Inventory the
parts and materials and ensure that each part fits the circuit
board correctly by checking the parts on the board WITHOUT
soldering them to the board. Put them in the tray until ready to
install.
8. Prepare the tools that you will need: soldering iron, rosin

3. core solder, desolder wick, safety glasses, long-nose pliers, and
wire cutters.
1. Assembling the Electronic Die Kit
2. Start with the seven 220 ohm resistors. Note that the color
bands are red-red-brown-gold.
2. With your long-nose pliers, bend the legs of all seven of the
resistors so that they form 90-degree angles.
3. Insert the 220 ohm resistors into R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, and
R7 of your printed circuit board through the side where you see
the labels. Bend the lead on the side away from the component
part, not next to the resistor body, but on the other side of the
pliers. Otherwise, you may break the connection inside the
resistor. Ensure that all components, with the exception of the
IC socket, are not fully inserted in the board, but have small
gaps between them and the circuit board to avoid excessive
heating.
4. Prepare to solder the legs of the resistors to the bottom side
of the printed circuit board. Turn the board upside down.
Caution must be taken to ensure that the “eyelet” solder pads
on the board are not stressed with either hands or the tip of the
iron during the heating process. The eyelets are easily
dislodged and, if damaged, may result in irreparable damage to
the circuit board.
In soldering, firmly touch the tip of the iron to the pad AND the
lead you want to solder. Ensure that only one wire and one pad
(one connection) is heated at a time. When the connection has
been heated sufficiently (it should take only a few seconds),
touch the solder to the pad, opposite from the tip of the iron,
and allow a small amount of solder to flow onto the connection.
The parts should not move while you are heating them or they

4. will not form a good joint. Sloppy or careless heating may cause
multiple connections to be soldered together, causing damage
to the circuit board.
5. Care must be taken as to not apply too much solder because
this will result in a convex-shaped connection and, possibly, a
cold solder joint. Ideally, the solder should be melted by the
connection, not the iron.
6. Remove the iron after ensuring that the solder has spread
over the pad and that the lead is sufficiently secured. A
resulting concave shape should be observed at the connection.
Have your team member or instructor verify proper
connection.
7. Trim the excess leads, pointing into a paper or plastic waste
bag or basket. Metal clippings may fly far, fall into computer
keyboards, or otherwise pose as a shorting hazard.
8. Insert the two, 0.1μF ceramic capacitors into C1 and C2.
9. Solder the legs of the capacitors to the bottom side of the
printed circuit board and carefully cut off the excess leads.
1. Insert the 7805, 5-volt regulator into U1 following the
drawing on the printed circuit board. Push the component
down carefully until it is fully set. DO NOT force the IC all the
way onto the board. Push the part partially down and allow the
leads to spread out. The result should be that the part stands off
the board as shown. Solder and carefully cut excess leads.
2. Insert the 8-pin, IC socket into U2 following the drawing on
the printed circuit board. Solder two pins on diagonally
opposite corners. (Hold one pin with the heat sink clip or paper
clip while soldering the other.) Inspect and confirm that all pins
are in the correct holes in the PCB and the socket is seated on
the board. Solder each pin and repair any bridging before
continuing.
2. Insert the momentary switch into S1 following the drawing
on the printed circuit board and solder the two contact pins.

5. 3. Insert the seven red LEDs into D1, D2, D3, D4, D5, D6, and D7
following the drawing on the printed circuit board. PLEASE
NOTE that the longer lead of the LEDs is the anode and should
go into the hole marked with a + sign.
4. Insert the 9V battery connector into P1 and solder. You may
insert the battery leads from the bottom. This will make a
neater assembly should you decide to put the Dice in a case. It is
VERY IMPORTANT that the red wire is soldered into V+ and the
black wire is soldered into V-.
5. Have a team member or your instructor inspect your board
when you have finished.
6. Completing and Testing the Kit
7. Inspect the Atmel ATTINY85-20PU microcontroller.
Straighten any severely bent pins, very slowly; otherwise, they
could break. Align the IC on your breadboard so that the dot in
the top lefthand corner of the IC is at the same end as the notch
in the IC socket.
Insert the pins on one side, but do not press in, making sure
that each pin is started in its socket. Gently press the IC from
the other side against the pins started until the pins on the
other side easily start in their sockets. Double check that no pin
is bent under or is outside of its intended socket location. Press
the IC into the socket, firmly but gently.
2. Attach the 9V battery firmly to the battery connector.
3. The die kit should resemble Figure 4.1 when assembly is
completed. The Atmel ATTINY85-20PU has been shipped with a
program already stored so that the die may be tested by
connecting the 9V battery to the connector, then pressing and
holding the momentary switch and releasing it. While the
switch is pressed, the LEDs will blink in a random pattern.
When the switch is released, a randomly generated number
between 1 and 6 will be displayed on the LED die. Note any
performance issues.

6. Hints:
If the die is not working on the first try, turn it off by
unplugging the battery. Check for warm/hot components.
If the regulator U1 is hot, you have a short somewhere. Look for
solder shorts, incorrectly inserted components, and leads that
may be touching adjacent leads. Remove the shorting
connection and try again.

7. Hints:
If the die is not working on the first try, turn it off by
unplugging the battery. Check for warm/hot components.
If the regulator U1 is hot, you have a short somewhere. Look for
solder shorts, incorrectly inserted components, and leads that
may be touching adjacent leads. Remove the shorting
connection and try again.