2. This is how I used Photoshop to edit my photos for my ancillary
1) Firstly I opened the
image and pressed ‘Ctrl’
and ‘J’ to replicate the layer
2) I then right clicked the
image and selected
‘Convert to Smart Object’

3. 3) The first adjustment took me
to ‘Filter’, ‘Other’ then ‘High
Pass’, this increases the contrast
of the image, particularly
around the outline of the star.
4) After that, I changed the
blending mode to overlay
and began work on the
overall contrast of the
image. I did this by creating
an adjustment layer and
selecting
‘Brightness/Contrast’. I then
set the contrast.

4. 5) I then created another
adjustment layer, this time I
adjusted the curves, which is
very crucial as it alters the three
main colours, red, green and
blue .
6) I then started to work
on adjusting the RGB
levels. Through trial
and error small
adjustments worked
best, so I slightly
increased the highlights
and shadows for the
reds, kept the greens
fairly neutral and
marginally adjusted the
highlights and shadows
for the blues.

5. 7) I then started work on
8) I chose to
adding a bit more colour
to the image. So I began use a strong
to do this by creating a pink for the
new layer. foreground
colour, it is
strong, but I
adjust this
later
9) I then selected the ‘Paint Bucket
Tool’ and clicked on the layer.

6. Progress so far-
10) I then changed
the blending mode
to screen and
changed the opacity
to 20%.
11) The last step made the colour in the
image a bit too strong, so I sorted this by
creating another adjustment layer by
clicking ‘Hue/Saturation’ and bringing the
saturation to -20, making the image look a
little older.

7. 12) For the next step I copied the layer again and turned it into a smart object. To
make the image look a bit more older, I clicked on ‘Filter’, ‘Noise’ then ‘Add Noise
and placed the value around 9%, so the differences were visible.

8. 13) For the last step I just wanted to slightly darken the edges so I went into
‘Filter’, ‘Lens Correction’ then clicked on the ‘Custom’ tab. When in the
custom tab I reduced the ‘Amount’ to around -40 and clicked OK.

9. Before After

10. Building my poster
The layout I chose for my poster required me to put text over a background which
helped build my colour scheme and create brand identity.
Once I had opened the image, Is selected the ‘Rectangle Tool’ and drew the rectangle over
the correct area. I would then set the colour of the shape and slightly change the opacity so
it blends with the background. The last step would be to use the text box tool and start to
add the content.

11. Adjusting the logos
In order to keep up with brand identity I had to change the colour of the logos so they
wouldn’t disrupt the colour scheme.
3) I then used
1) Once I opened the the magic wand
image, I selected the tool to separate
‘colour selection tool’ from the logo from
the sidebar. the
background.
4) Once seperated I
went to ‘Image’,
‘Adjustments’ and
2) I then then ‘Hue/saturation’
coloured the adjusting the
lightness to 100,
logo in with
making the image
the tool. white, like the font of
my colour scheme. It
is now ready to insert.

12. Adjusting the light
For the middle of my CD case, instead of using a filter or adding any adjustment
layers, I wanted to keep the image natural and only wanted to adjust the lighting to
accommodate the fonts, this is how I did it.
For this particular technique I simply went into ‘Filter’, ‘Render ‘ and Lighting
Effects’. Once there I adjusted the sphere so the light was the most intense on
the right than on the left, I did this simply by turning the sphere.

13. Using DSLRs
For both days of filming we shot the footage with DSLR cameras, we used tri-pods to
help us with the framing of the shots, especially the song performance footage, when
no panning or tracking was needed.
The most prominent feature used from the DSLRs was the efficient focusing features
that they had. When it was time to adjust the distance or to take the camera off the tri-
pod for tracking or panning shots the camera would be out of focus. We made sure that
we filmed using manual focus as we found this a lot more accurate when it was time to
adjust, when the focus needed to be changed we would zoom in on the artist by
tapping the screen, once the camera was zoomed in at it’s maximum we would
manually adjust the lens to get the picture in focus, if the camera is zoomed in at it’s
maximum and the focus is then adjusted it picks up all the details. We did this before
recording to ensure maximum quality.