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Margorie Ferguson
Marjorie Ferguson (1980) identified four types of facial expression in the cover photos of
British women’s magazines:
Chocolate Box: half or full-smile, lips together or slightly parted, teeth barely visible, full or
three-quarter face to camera. Projected mood: blandly pleasing, warm bath
warmth, where uniformity of features in their smooth perfection is devoid of uniqueness
or of individuality.
Invitational: emphasis on the eyes, mouth shut or with only a hint of a smile, head to one
side or looking back to camera. Projected mood: suggestive of mischief or mystery, the
hint of contact potential rather than sexual promise, the cover equivalent of advertising’s
soft sell.
Super-smiler: full face, wide open toothy smile, head thrust forward or chin thrown
back, hair often wind-blown. Projected mood: aggressive, ‘look-at-me’ demanding, the
hard sell, ‘big come-on’ approach.
Romantic or Sexual: a fourth and more general classification devised to include male and
female ‘two-somes’; or the dreamy, heavy-lidded, unsmiling big-heads, or the overtly
sensual or sexual. Projected moods: possible ‘available’ and definitely ‘available’.
Trevour Millum
In a study of advertisements in women’s magazines, Trevor Millum offers these categories of female expressions:
Soft/introverted: eyes often shut or half-closed, the mouth slightly open/pouting, rarely smiling; an inward-looking trance-like reverie, removed
from earthly things.
Cool/level: indifferent, self-sufficient, arrogant, slightly insolent, haughty, aloof, confident, reserved; wide eyes, full lips straight or slightly
parted, and obtrusive hair, often blonde. The eyes usually look the reader in the eye, as perhaps the woman regards herself in the mirror.
Seductive: similar to the cool/level look in many respects - the eyes are less wide, perhaps shaded, the expression is less reserved but still self-
sufficient and confident; milder versions may include a slight smile.
Narcissistic: similarities to the cool/level and soft/introverted looks, rather closer to the latter: a satisfied smile, closed or half-closed eyes, self-
enclosed, oblivious, content - ‘activity directed inward’.
Carefree: nymphlike, active, healthy, gay, vibrant, outdoor girl; long unrestrained outward-flowing hair, more outward-going than the
above, often smiling or grinning.
Kittenlike: coy, naïve (perhaps in a deliberate, studied way), a friendlier and more girlish version of the cool/level look, sometimes almost twee.
Maternal: motherly, matronly, mature, wise, experienced and kind, carrying a sort of authority; shorter hair, slight smile and gentle eyes -
mouth may sometimes be stern, but eyes twinkle.
Practical: concentrating, engaged on the business in hand, mouth closed, eyes object-directed, sometimes a slight frown; hair often short or
tied back.
Comic: deliberately ridiculous, exaggerated, acting the fool, pulling faces for the benefit of a real or imaginary audience, sometimes close to a
sort of archness.
Catalogue: a neutral look as of a dummy, artificial, waxlike; features may be in any position, but most likely to be with eyes open wide and a
smile, but the look remains vacant and empty; personality has been removed. (Millum 1975, 97-8)
Chocolate Box Invitational Super-smiler Romantic or Sexual
Carefree Practical Seductive Comic
Catalogue
Lighting Styles
High Key Lighting
High key photography is set in the studio, using two or more spot lights positioned at
the back of the model and one pointing directly in front of the model to make the
photograph bright and very white. High key images have very very little to no
shadows.
Examples: Rankin
Low Key Lightening
Low key photography is also set in the studio in darkness (the studio lights turned
out) having only one spotlight placed at one place on the model. Two is often used if
it’s really neccesary. There is a lot of shadow created but it defines out facial
expressions and features of the face such as wrinkles.
Examples: Bill Brandt
Mid Key Lighting
The term "mid key" describes an image with normal tone ranges an
reflects the "average" photo:

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Facial expressions

  • 1.
  • 2. Margorie Ferguson Marjorie Ferguson (1980) identified four types of facial expression in the cover photos of British women’s magazines: Chocolate Box: half or full-smile, lips together or slightly parted, teeth barely visible, full or three-quarter face to camera. Projected mood: blandly pleasing, warm bath warmth, where uniformity of features in their smooth perfection is devoid of uniqueness or of individuality. Invitational: emphasis on the eyes, mouth shut or with only a hint of a smile, head to one side or looking back to camera. Projected mood: suggestive of mischief or mystery, the hint of contact potential rather than sexual promise, the cover equivalent of advertising’s soft sell. Super-smiler: full face, wide open toothy smile, head thrust forward or chin thrown back, hair often wind-blown. Projected mood: aggressive, ‘look-at-me’ demanding, the hard sell, ‘big come-on’ approach. Romantic or Sexual: a fourth and more general classification devised to include male and female ‘two-somes’; or the dreamy, heavy-lidded, unsmiling big-heads, or the overtly sensual or sexual. Projected moods: possible ‘available’ and definitely ‘available’.
  • 3. Trevour Millum In a study of advertisements in women’s magazines, Trevor Millum offers these categories of female expressions: Soft/introverted: eyes often shut or half-closed, the mouth slightly open/pouting, rarely smiling; an inward-looking trance-like reverie, removed from earthly things. Cool/level: indifferent, self-sufficient, arrogant, slightly insolent, haughty, aloof, confident, reserved; wide eyes, full lips straight or slightly parted, and obtrusive hair, often blonde. The eyes usually look the reader in the eye, as perhaps the woman regards herself in the mirror. Seductive: similar to the cool/level look in many respects - the eyes are less wide, perhaps shaded, the expression is less reserved but still self- sufficient and confident; milder versions may include a slight smile. Narcissistic: similarities to the cool/level and soft/introverted looks, rather closer to the latter: a satisfied smile, closed or half-closed eyes, self- enclosed, oblivious, content - ‘activity directed inward’. Carefree: nymphlike, active, healthy, gay, vibrant, outdoor girl; long unrestrained outward-flowing hair, more outward-going than the above, often smiling or grinning. Kittenlike: coy, naïve (perhaps in a deliberate, studied way), a friendlier and more girlish version of the cool/level look, sometimes almost twee. Maternal: motherly, matronly, mature, wise, experienced and kind, carrying a sort of authority; shorter hair, slight smile and gentle eyes - mouth may sometimes be stern, but eyes twinkle. Practical: concentrating, engaged on the business in hand, mouth closed, eyes object-directed, sometimes a slight frown; hair often short or tied back. Comic: deliberately ridiculous, exaggerated, acting the fool, pulling faces for the benefit of a real or imaginary audience, sometimes close to a sort of archness. Catalogue: a neutral look as of a dummy, artificial, waxlike; features may be in any position, but most likely to be with eyes open wide and a smile, but the look remains vacant and empty; personality has been removed. (Millum 1975, 97-8)
  • 4. Chocolate Box Invitational Super-smiler Romantic or Sexual Carefree Practical Seductive Comic Catalogue
  • 6. High Key Lighting High key photography is set in the studio, using two or more spot lights positioned at the back of the model and one pointing directly in front of the model to make the photograph bright and very white. High key images have very very little to no shadows. Examples: Rankin
  • 7. Low Key Lightening Low key photography is also set in the studio in darkness (the studio lights turned out) having only one spotlight placed at one place on the model. Two is often used if it’s really neccesary. There is a lot of shadow created but it defines out facial expressions and features of the face such as wrinkles. Examples: Bill Brandt
  • 8. Mid Key Lighting The term "mid key" describes an image with normal tone ranges an reflects the "average" photo: