design

1. Welcome to the presentation
on Fabric Structure and Design
Lecture 05
Presented by
Tamanna Hasan
Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering,
World University of Bangladesh.

2. Twill weave
The order of interlacing which causes diagonal lines of warp and
weft floats to be formed in the fabric is called twill weave.
In the basic weaves these diagonal lines are continuous but in some
of their derivatives they may be broken or reverse periodically.
The simplest possible repeat for a twill weave is 3 ends X 3 picks and
there is no theoretical upper limit to the size of the repeat.

3. Features of Twill weave
i) A twill weave is characterized by diagonal lines of warp and weft floats on the face of
the fabric.
ii) These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but
displacing the interlacing points of each end by one pick relative to that of the previous end.
iii) Twill lines are formed on both sides of cloth.
iv) The direction of diagonal lines on the face side of the cloth is opposite to that on the
wrong side coinciding respectively with the weft and warp floats on the other side. Thus if
warp floats predominate on one side of the cloth, weft floats will predominate in the same
proportion on the other side.
v) The simplest possible repeat for a twill weave is 3 ends X 3 picks.
vi) Diagonal lines running at angles varying between 15º to 75º.
vii) Straight draft is used for producing this weave.

4. Classification of Twill
1. According to the direction of twill line:
i. S Twill: Downward displacement of the interlacing point i.e. Twill line is
produced by forwarding of each warp yarn to left side respect to each weft
yarn. The twill line of this fabric forwards to right to the left.
Example:
s
3
2
ii. Z twill: Upward displacement of the interlacing point i.e. twill line is produced by
forwarding of each warp yarn to right respect to each weft yarn. the twill of this
fabric forwards to left to right.
e.g.:
z
3
1

5. Classification of Twill
1. According to the Face yarn:
i. Warp face twill: Prominence of warp yarn on the face of the cloth.
e.g.:
z
4
1
or
s
1
3
ii. Weft face twill: Prominence of weft yarn on the face of the cloth .
e.g.:
s
4
1
or
z
3
2
iii. Double face twill: Both faces of the cloth have the same appearance. Prominence of warp
and weft yarn on both side of the cloth is the same.
e.g.:
s
2
2

6. Classification of Twill
1. According to the nature of the twill line:
i. Simple twill:
a. Simple warp twill.
b. Simple weft twill.
a. Simple warp twill: these are formed by passing of each warp threads in each repeat of
the pattern, on one pick.
E.g.:
s
1
3
b. Simple weft twill: these are formed by passing over all weft threads, in each repeat of
the pattern, on each end.
E.g.:
s
2
1

7. Classification of Twill
i. Expanded twill:
a. Warp expanded twill.
b. Weft expanded twill.
a. Warp expanded twill: in the repeat each warp thread pass over or under one more weft yarns.
There is no 1 up or 1 down in twill.
Example:
s
2
4
b. Weft expanded twill: Each weft thread pass over or under more warp yarns. There is no 1 up or
1 down in twill.
e.g.:
z
5
2
i. Multiple twill: It contains more than one twill line which may be of different
width.
e.g.: 4
3
1
2
or 2
3
1
3
2
1

8. Derivatives of Twill
1. Zig – zag / Pointed /waved twill.
2. Herring bone twill.
3. Diamond twill.
4. Diaper design.
5. Broken twill.
6. Rearranged twill /transposed twill.
7. Stepped twill.
8. Elongated twill.
9. Shadded twill.
10. Combined twill.

9. Zig-Zag Twill
1. 'Zig – zag / Pointed /waved twill: It is one of the most important modification of
twill weave produced by reversing the direction of the twill at a suitable interval and
combination of‘s’ and ‘z’ twill.
 According to reversing of direction, two types of Zigzag twill:
a. Horizontal zigzag.
b. Vertical zigzag.
a. Horizontal zig-zag: When the reversal of twill direction occurs upon the warp end
it results a horizontal zig-zag.
b. Vertical zig-zag: When the reversal of twill direction occurs upon the weft yarn
and results a vertical zig – zag.

10. Features of Horizontal zig-zag
 Twill direction reverses upon the warp yarn.
 No of warp is double to the no of weft in the repeat.
 The change of direction of starts when finishes of basic twill repeat and makes point in the
moment of change.
 Basic twill runs along warp.
 V draft / pointed draft is found.
 This twill is made from any continuous twill.

11. Features of Vertical zig-zag
 Twill direction reverses upon the weft yarn.
 No of weft is double to the no. of warp in the repeat.
 The reversal of direction starts when finishes of basic twill repeat and makes point in the
moment of reversal.
 Basic twill runs along weft .
 Straight draft is found.
 This twill is made from any complicated continuous twill.
Uses: Ornamented design, upholstery, wall covering, screen, various house hold item etc.

12. Thank you all