To care for their skin and physical appearance, different civilizations have used, and still use, a variety of different mineral, animal, plant, and chemical products. Based on traditional uses and ethnobotanical knowledge, humans have, until recently, used natural resources empirically for skin care and disorders. However, in recent years, interest in health and skin care has become much more widespread, and there is now great demand for certain effective plant extracts

1. Lecture II
Enas I. A. Mohamed

2. Skin is the largest organ of the body, with a total area of about
20 square feet.

3. Skin has three layers:
- The epidermis, the outermost layer of skin, provides a waterproof barrier and
creates skin tone. The skin’s color is created by special cells called
melanocytes, which produce the pigment melanin. Melanocytes are located in
the epidermis.
- The dermis presents beneath the epidermis. It is a fibrous network of tissue
that provides structure and resilience to the skin. Its major components work
together as a network. This mesh-like network is composed of structural
proteins (collagen and elastin), blood and lymph vessels, and specialized cells
called mast cells and fibroblasts. These are surrounded by a gel-like substance
called the ground substance, composed mostly of glycosaminoglycans. The
ground substance plays a critical role in the hydration and moisture levels
within the skin.
- The hypodermis, the deeper subcutaneous tissue, made of fat and connective
tissue.

4. What is a cosmetic product?
• According to the consumer products (safety) regulations1989;
a cosmetic product refers to any substance or preparation
intended for application to any external surface of the human body
(that is to say, epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external
genital organs), or to the teeth or buccal mucosa wholly or mainly
for the purpose of cleaning, perfuming or protecting them, or
keeping them in good condition or changing their appearance or
combating body odor or perspiration.

5. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically
active ingredients purposing to have medical or drug-like
benefits such as anti-aging and antiwrinkle creams.

6. Herbal cosmetics for skin care
• The herbal approach of proper skin care is principally based on
three essential steps:
1. Cleanse
2. Nourish
3. Moisture
Whatever may be the type of the skin, these three steps are
external care of the skin to protect from the constant effect of
environmental stress and skins natural process of cell
degradation decay.

7. Herbal cosmetics for skin care
• Therefore, in order to help the skin, look young and
radiant:
• Exfoliation to remove dead skin cells
• Epidermal stimulation for new cell growth
• Antioxidant properties for cellular repair
• Improve capillary blood flow
• Penetrating moisture and nutrients to replenish all layers of
skin

8. Herbal cosmetics
1. Skin cleansers:
*Importance: cleansing the pores from dust, chemicals, drugs or
pesticides.
*Plants: -- Witch hazel -- Sweet almond

9. Herbal cosmetics
2. Skin toners and astringents:
*Importance: shrink the pores to aid cleansing, hydrating and refreshing
*Plants:
-- Witch hazel
-- Birch
-- organic acids
Birch tree

10. Herbal cosmetics
3. Moisturizers:
*Importance: make the external layers of the skin smooth and soft by increasing
hydration (water content), prevent water loss through the epidermis and repair scaly
damaged or dry skin
*Plants:
-- Aloe gel
-- Avocado oil
-- Sweet almond
-- Evening primrose
-- Chitosan
-- Chamomile

11. Herbal cosmetics
4. Sunscreen:
*Importance: protects the skin from the sun’s UV radiation.
Reduce sunburn, other skin damage and the risk of skin
cancer
*Plants:
-- Cinnamic acid derivatives: p-hydroxy cinnamic acid and
caffeic acid as in propolis
-- Anthracene derivatives: aloe emodin as in Aloes
-- Tannins: gallic and ellagic acid and their derivatives as in
green tea.
Propolis

12. Herbal cosmetics
5. Anti-aging medicine:
• Aging changes in the skin are a group of common conditions and
developments that occur as people grow older.
• Skin changes are among the most visible signs of aging. Evidence
of increasing age includes wrinkles and sagging skin.
• Skin changes are related to environmental factors, genetic
factors, nutrition, and other factors.
The greatest single factor, though, is sun exposure. You can see
this by comparing areas of your body that have regular sun
exposure with areas that are protected from sunlight.
• Natural pigments seem to provide some protection against sun-
induced skin damage. Blue-eyed, fair-skinned people show more
aging skin changes than people with darker, more heavily
pigmented skin.
Skin wrinkles
Sagging skin

13. Herbal cosmetics
5. Anti-aging medicine:
Aging changes
• With aging, the outer skin layer (epidermis) thins, even
though the number of cell layers remains unchanged.
• The number of pigment-containing cells (melanocytes)
decreases. The remaining melanocytes increase in size.
Aging skin looks thinner, paler, and clear (translucent).
Large pigmented spots, including age spots, liver spots,
or lentigos, may appear in sun-exposed areas.
• Sebaceous glands produce less oil as you age. Men experience a minimal decrease, most often
after the age of 80. Women gradually produce less oil beginning after menopause. This can
make it harder to keep the skin moist, resulting in dryness and itchiness.
• Changes in the connective tissue reduce the skin's strength and elasticity. This is known as
elastosis. It is more noticeable in sun-exposed areas (solar elastosis).
The blood vessels of the dermis become more fragile. This leads to bruising, bleeding under the
skin.

14. Herbal cosmetics
5. Anti-aging medicine:
• Ginseng:
• Dried root of Panax ginseng (Fam.: Araliaceae)
• Studies reported that it can activate the skin’s
metabolism, reduce keratinization, provide moisture and
soften skin. Also alleviate wrinkling and enhance skin
whiteness.
• The major effects are thought to be due to enhanced
skin nutrition as a result of stimulation and increase in
blood circulation and cell proliferation, resulting in
increased metabolism which leads to an ‘antiaging’
effect.
• Many studies indicate that the ‘antiaging’ activity is due
to free radical scavenging action of the ginseng saponins
(ginsenosides) and inhibition of lipoperoxidation.

15. Herbal cosmetics
5. Anti-aging medicine:
• Grape seed:
• The seeds of Vitis vinifera L. (Fam.: Vitaceae)
• It contains polyphenolic proanthocyanidins, which
in turn can bind to each other to form oligomers
known as procyanidins.
• These procyanidins are strong antioxidants
(compared with vitamin C and E), by inhibition of
lipid peroxidation facilitate wound healing and
protect collagen and elastin from degradation.
• Grape seed extracts show tyrosinase-inhibiting
activity and are useful in antiaging and skin-
lightening cosmetics.

16. Herbal cosmetics
5. Anti-aging medicine:
• Cucumber.
• Cucumber or Cucumis sativa Linn. (Cucurbitaceae), is
cooling, healing and soothing to irritated skin, whether
caused by sun, or the effects of a cutaneous eruption.
• Reports indicate the presence of antioxidant enzymes and
superoxide dismutase in the peeled pericarp of cucumber,
while peroxidase (I) activity in fresh cucumber fruit was
highest in the skin, followed by pericarp and then carpel
tissues.
• Although it is frequently used in cosmetic products, more
studies are needed to assess its healing and antioxidant
effects

17. Herbal cosmetics
6. Skin lighteners and brighteners:
*Importance:
-lightening skin pigmentations, fading brown or age spots and blotches (uneven skin color due to
uneven amounts of melanin due to their inhibitory effect on melanin formation and fighting free
radicals (antioxidant)
*Plants:
-- Bearberry (arbutin) -- Shea butter ( Vitellaria paradoxa, Sapotaceae)
-- Evening primrose oil -- Grape fruit extract

18. Herbal cosmetics
6. Skin lighteners and brighteners:

20. Following herbs used for curing nail infections:
Cymbopogon citratus
Lavendula officinals
Melaleuca latifolia
Syzygium aromaticum
Thymus vulgaris
Allium sativum

22. 1. Acne
• Common skin disease that occurs when the
openings of hair follicles become clogged
and blocked with oil secretions and dead skin
cells.
• Characterized by pimples (papules) &
possibly scarring
􀂇 Affects mostly skin with the densest
population of sebaceous follicles; these areas
include the face, the upper part of the chest,
and the back
􀂇 Common in teenagers and young adults

23. 1. Acne
Etiology:
1) Increased hormonal activity (menstrual cycle, puberty)
2) Genetics
3) Psychological causes (stress)
4) Infection of the pores with the bacterium Propionibacterium acnes
5) Diet (e.g. high glycemic load, cow’s milk, chocolate, salts)

24. 1. Acne
• Treatment:
Benzoyl peroxide
Antibiotics
Hormonal treatment
Anti-inflammatories

25. Herbal treatment
Acne
• Fruit acids, such as citric, gluconic, gluconolactone,
glycolic, malic, and tartaric acids, used topically
have demonstrated some effectiveness in treating
acne because of their exfoliative properties. In one
study, gluconolactone was found to be as effective
in clearing inflamed and noninflamed acne lesions
as 5% benzoyl peroxide.
• Irritation is the main adverse effect of fruit acids,
especially in higher concentrations.

26. Herbal treatment
Acne
• Tannins have natural astringent properties and are
used topically to treat acne.
• Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) bark extract is
commonly used as a household remedy by making
a decoction from 5 to 10 g of herb in 1 cup (0.24 L)
of water. Witch hazel is considered very safe to use
topically
• Similar astringents can be made from white oak
tree bark or the English walnut tree bark.
White oak tree
Walnut tree

27. Herbal treatment
Acne
• Tea tree oil (Melaleuca oil) is an essential oil extracted from the leaves
of Melaleuca alternifolia (Myrtaceae),
• It has antimicrobial activity (due to terpinen-4-ol).
• A study of 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil in a water-based gel with
5% benzoyl peroxide. Although the tea tree oil did not act as rapidly as
benzoyl peroxide, it did show statistical improvement in the number of acne
lesions at the end of 3 months, and there was a significantly lower incidence
of adverse effects such as dryness, irritation, itching, and burning with tea
tree oil (44%) than with benzoyl peroxide (79%).
• There have been occasional reports of allergic contact dermatitis and of
poisoning if taken internally. However, it is the degradation products of
monoterpenes in the tea tree oil that actually appear to be the sensitizing
agents. Hence, topical treatment is considered very safe.

28. Herbal treatment
Acne

29. Herbal treatment
Acne
• Oral administration of vitex (Vitex agnus-castus) is
effective in treating premenstrual acne.
• The whole-fruit extract has a hormone-regulating
effect that is thought to act on follicle-stimulating
hormone and luteinizing hormone levels in the
pituitary gland to increase progesterone levels and
reduce estrogen levels.
• It may counteract the effectiveness of oral
contraceptives.
• The main adverse effects reported are gastrointestinal
tract distress and occurrence of rashes. It should not
be taken by pregnant or nursing women.
Vitex agnus-castus

30. 2. Wounds and Burns
Type of injury to the skin caused by flame,
scalding (hot liquids or steam), hot objects,
electricity, chemicals, light, radiation or friction

31. Burns degrees
First degree:
- reddening of the skin due to dilatation
of capillaries with a white plaque and
pain at the site of injury.
- Involves only the epidermis
- E.g. sunburns

32. Second degree:
- Blistering
- Involves the superficial and/or deep
dermis layer
- May result in scarring
Burns degrees

33. Third degree:
- Severe damage (loss of epidermis
with damage to the subcutaneous
tissue)
- May require grafting
Burns degrees

35. Aloe Vera (A. Vera) leaves (Fam. Asphodelaceae (Liliaceae))
produce a gel and a juice or latex.
The gel is obtained from the central core of the leaf and has been
used topically for centuries for the treatment of wounds and
burns.
The Aloe vera gel is made up of water, amino acids, vitamins,
lipids, sterols, tannins, and enzymes and also contains
phenol, saponin, anthraquinones components.
Several case reports and animal studies demonstrate that aloe vera
decreases burning, itching, and scarring associated with radiation
dermatitis. Aloe Vera was also found to accelerate healing of
chronic leg ulcers, surgically induced wounds, and frostbite.

36. Aloe Vera (A. Vera) leaves
Adverse effects:
The main adverse effect of topical aloe vera gel is that it causes allergic contact
dermatitis. There are also reports of delayed healing after laparotomy or a
Cesarean section. Taken orally, aloe vera is considered very safe when used
properly.

37. Honey has been used topically for
centuries to assist healing of wounds,
including burns, decubitus ulcers, and
infected wounds.
It has been found in vitro to have
antibacterial and antifungal activity
against organisms that commonly
infect surgical wounds.

38. Honey
The wound-healing properties of honey are believed to
result from:
- The debriding properties of the enzyme catalase.
- Absorption of edema due to honey’s hygroscopic
properties.
- Its ability to promote granulation and reepithelialization
from the wound edges.
- Its antimicrobial properties.
There have been no reports of significant adverse effects,
although there are reports of contact dermatitis to honey.

39. Marigold (Calendula officinalis) has been used
topically since ancient times and is approved by the
German regulatory authority Commission E as an
antiseptic and for wound healing.
A topical preparation of marigold continues to be
recommended for the treatment of wounds, ulcers,
and burns.
Marigold is also widely used as a topical treatment
for diaper dermatitis and other mild skin
inflammations.

40. Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Mechanism:
-The anti-inflammatory effects of marigold are
ascribed to the presence of triterpenoids.
- In animal studies, Calendula was suggested to
stimulate granulation and increase
glycoproteins and collagen at wound sites.
- Marigold also shows in vitro antimicrobial and
immune-modulating properties.
The main adverse event is allergic contact
dermatitis. No serious adverse effects have been
reported, and it is considered safe to use both
topically and orally.

41. There are many herbs containing tannins that act as astringents, helping to dry
oozing and bleeding wounds. Some of the more commonly reported tannin-
containing herbs that may be helpful for the topical treatment of wounds
include English walnut leaf (Juglans regia), mullein (Verbascum), oak bark
(Quercus), rhatany (Krameria).

43. • Inflammation to the skin caused by an external contact (allergen or sensitizer) such
as soap, detergents, perfumes, dyes, wools, cosmetics, jewelry, bacterial or fungal
products, oils, rubber, metal or some compounds (e.g. photodermatitis caused by
contact with furanocoumarins such as xanthotoxin & bergapten) which are then
activated by light to sensitize the allergic response
􀂇 Symptoms: redness of the skin, swelling, itching and skin lesions
Acute dermatitis
- Rapidly evolving red rash which may be blistered and swollen
- Marked spongiosis (epidermal intercellular edema)
Chronic dermatitis
- Long-standing irritable area, often darker than the surrounding skin, thickened
(lichenified) and much scratched
- Less spongiotic but thickened epidermis
􀂇 Treatment: Corticosteroids & antihistamines
3. Atopic dermatitis (Eczema):

44. Herbal treatment:
German chamomile (Matricaria recutita),
• Chamomile extract, essential oil and isolated constituents, possess
anti-inflammatory effects and are useful for treating inflammation
of skin and mucous membranes, eczema and as an antipruritic
• Chamomile also shows in vitro antimicrobial activities.
• The anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, and antimicrobial effects
of German chamomile are attributed to an essential blue oil that
contains sesquiterpene alcohol, α-bisabolol, chamazulene, and
flavonoids.
• Chamomile is considered safe to use topically and orally.
• The main adverse effect reported is allergic contact dermatitis.
3. Atopic dermatitis (Eczema):

45. Herbal treatment:
• Red clover
• Trifolium pretense L. (Fabaceae) has anti-inflammatory effect.
• Isoflavones from red clover flower applied topically offer
protection from UV irradiation in hairless mice after UV exposure,
reducing the inflammatory edema reaction, and suppression of
contact hypersensitivity induced by moderate doses of solar
simulated UV radiation.
• Lotions containing equol (an isoflavone from red clover) more
readily protect the immune system from photo supression than from
the inflammation of the sunburn reaction, even when applied after
exposure, so have a role as a sun-protective cosmetic ingredient.
3. Atopic dermatitis (Eczema):

46. • A chronic (probably autoimmune) disease that
causes red, scaly patches to appear on the skin
(areas of inflammation & excessive skin
production). Skin rapidly accumulates at these
sites giving a silvery white appearance. It affects
mostly the elbow, knees, ankles & scalp but can
also affect any area of the body & can also cause
inflammation of the joints (psoriatic arthritis)
􀂇 Etiology:
Exact cause is unknown but may be due to a
combination of genetic predisposition and
environmental factors e.g. stress
4. Psoriasis:

47. 4. Psoriasis:
• Herbal treatment:
• Aloe vera (Aloe vera) has
been used for centuries in
wound healing and was
recently found to be a
potential treatment for
psoriasis.

48. Herbal treatment:
• Capsaicin is the main ingredient in cayenne pepper
(Capsicum frutescens), it has also been studied for the
treatment of psoriasis.
• Two trials showed that 0.025% cream used topically is
effective in treating psoriasis. The first study showed a
significant decrease in scaling and erythema during a 6-week
period in 44 patients with moderate and severe psoriasis.
• The second was a double-blind study of 197 patients in
whom psoriasis was treated with the capsaicin cream four
times daily for 6 weeks, with a significant decrease in scaling,
thickness, erythema, and pruritus.
• The main adverse effect reported was a brief burning
sensation at the application site.
• Capsaicin is contraindicated on injured skin or near the eyes
4. Psoriasis:

49. • Boil is a skin disease caused by the infection of hair follicles
by Staphylococcus aureus (a strain of microbes that normally
live on the skin surface), resulting in the localized
accumulation of pus and dead tissues.
Individual boils can cluster together and form an interconnected
network of boils called carbuncles.
􀂇 In severe cases, boils may develop to form an abscess
• Abscess is pool of pus that has accumulated in an
encapsulated cavity formed by tissue caused by an
inflammatory response to bacteria (usually Staphylococcus
aureus), parasites or other foreign materials like splinters or
bullets.
􀂇 It is the body's response to prevent the spread of the
infection to other parts of the body.
􀂇 In most cases it is subcutaneous & can occur in the lungs,
brain, teeth, kidneys & tonsils
5. Boils and Abscesses:

50. Examples of herbal medicines used for treatment of
boils

51. 6. Sore nipples during breastfeeding
• Sore & cracked nipples during breastfeeding due to:
a) Incorrect positioning or latch (the whole areola needs to be sucked not just the nipple)
b) Yeast infections
􀂇 Characterized by pain that lasts throughout most or all of the entire feeding
􀂇 Nipples should be exposed to air as possible to discourage the growth of thrush
Topical herbal remedies:
Chamomile Olive oil Sweet almond oil

52. Hair Care
Plant materials can be used as hair growth
stimulation, hair colorants and dyes, and in a
number of hair and scalp complaints such as
dandruff.

53. 1. Hair growth stimulants
• They stimulate hair follicle or scalp metabolism, and accelerate blood
circulation, activate dermal papilla, exert antitestosterone action, or increase
nutrition to the hair follicles through accelerated blood flow.
• It was discovered that proanthocyanidins extracted from grape seeds
promote proliferation of hair follicle cells in vitro.

54. 2. Dandruff treatment
• Dandruff is a condition of the scalp that causes
flakes of skin to appear. It is often accompanied
by itching. The exact cause is unknown, but
various factors increase the risk. It is not related
to poor hygiene, but it may be more visible if a
person does not wash or brush their hair often.

55. A. Sage
• Leaves of Salvia officinalis (Fam.:
Lamiaceae)
• Active constituents: Tannins, saponins, as
well as essential oil "borneol and
camphor".
• is an old favorite for dandruff, loss of hair
and greasy hair and skin. An extract of
sage massaged into the scalp can control
dandruff, falling hair or loss of hair if the
papilla is dormant and not destroyed.
2. Dandruff treatment

56. B. Rosemary
• Leaves of Rosmarinus officinalis Linn.
(Fam.: Labiatae)
• The most important constituents of
rosemary are thought to be caffeic acid and
its derivatives such as rosmarinic acid;
these compounds have antioxidant effects.
• is claimed to be a conditioner for greasy
hair, a rinse and a tonic, and infused fresh
or dried rosemary and sage can be used as a
daily rinse for dandruff treatment.
2. Dandruff treatment

57. 2. Dandruff treatment
C. Thyme inhibit dandruff and used in a scalp rub it prevents hair falling out,
and rinses containing rosemary and thyme promote natural hair health.
D. Garlic: Allium sativum L. (Fam.: Liliaceae) lotion can help to control
dandruff. It has been used since ancient times as a vegetable with many
properties, including antiseptic, tonic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory,
antibacterial and antifungal effects. Garlic should not be placed directly on
the skin since it may cause blisters and a burning sensation in some people or
contact dermatitis and allergic reactions in others.
•

58. 2. Dandruff treatment

59. 3. Hair coloring
• Vegetable dyes can usually be recommended to patients sensitized to oxidative
dyes, due to their low allergenic power.
• The use of natural dyes on the hair has not made great progress natural dyes are
not very stable in solution, and are prone to oxidation, discoloration, pH color
shift and fading. Secondly, a single natural dye may not give the right color, and
only henna seem to be suitable to color the hair.

60. Henna:
• Leaves of Lawsonia alba L. (Fam.:
Lythraceae)
• The compound lawsone, a brown powder
isolated from the leaves, is responsible for
the red color in henna. It is used as a
staining agent, due to the strong binding of
lawsone to the hair.

61. 3. Hair coloring
• If the hair is dyed with henna and then treated with a hot decoction of Allium cepa (onion)
skin, a coppery color will be obtained.
• A dull golden yellow color is obtained using apigenin, a flavonoid from German chamomile
flowers, as a hair rinse for fair hair.
• Curcumin is the pigment of the spice turmeric and will also give a range of color from yellow
to a deep orange.
• Turmeric contains three major curcuminoids, of which curcumin is the most significant, and
these are responsible for the yellow color of the herb.
• A red color is obtained from the extract of Hibiscus sabdariffa (Malvaceae), commonly called
Karkadeh or red sorrel. Its main red colored components, anthocyanidins known as
delphinidin or cyanidin, can be used, but the intensity of the red color is a function of pH of
the solution.

62. Thank you