2. Private Practice
• Help DVM with history, protocol development, continually
learn about developments in proper care/husbandry
• Help client understand how to appropriately care for pets
Zoo Medicine
Wildlife rehabilitation
3. Help client decide on appropriate animal for lifestyle
Encourage conservation of species
Encourage purchase of captive raised instead of wild
caught animals
Be a source of correct information on husbandry
• Housing – cage size, substrate to use, location in
house, temperature/humidity
• Diet – what and how much
Gather history for DVM
Keep up on advances by attending CE
Help clinic develop protocols for exotic animals –
venomous spp., large cats, primates, illegal spp.
5. Domestic Non-Domestic
Lived with humans for Reverts to wild easily
many generations Faster reaction time
Docile Stress more easily
Non-territorial More powerful for size
confinement Tolerance Specific dietary needs
Disease Resistant
Adaptable diet
6. In the wild, animals do not have the luxury of acting
“sick” when ill.
Educate owners
* Watch for subtle signs
* “Fine yesterday – sick today” = dying
7. Any of various cold-blooded, usually egg-laying
vertebrates of the class Reptilia, such as a
snake, lizard, crocodile, turtle, or dinosaur, having an
external covering of scales or horny plates and
breathing by means of lungs.
8. A cold-blooded vertebrate animal of a class
(Amphibia) that comprises the frogs, toads, newts,
and salamanders, distinguished by having an aquatic
gill-breathing larval stage followed (typically) by a
terrestrial lung-breathing adult stage.
9. The branch of zoology dealing with amphibians
and reptiles, based on Greek
herpeton, "creeping thing."
10. Ectothermic – rely on surroundings to regulate body
temperature
Mouth & skin have lots of bacteria
• particularly gram negative bacteria
• Salmonella, Aeromonas, Pseudomonas
• Mycobacterium
ALWAYS WASH YOUR HANDS
AFTER HANDLING!!!
12. Cloaca – common opening of digestive, urinary &
genital tracts
RenalPortal System – blood from hind limbs filtered
by kidneys before reaching the general circulation
Excrete
uric acid as main waste product of protein
metabolism
13. Scales
• Lizards shed skin in patches (may eat it, normal)
• Snakes shed skin in single piece
Femoral pores
• Secretory gland on inside thighs of some lizards – release
pheromones to attract mates or mark territory
14. Vomeronasal organ (Jacobson’s organ)
• Present in many lizards, snakes
• Located in the dorsal oral cavity, but not continuous with
the nasal cavity, innervated by a separate branch of the
olfactory nerve
• Scent particles are collected on the tongue (tongue
flicking), transferred to sensory cells
• Helps to track/detect prey, detect mates, detect enemies
15. Know for each species:
Anatomy and physiology
Expected response to stress
Weapons of defense
Ways to restrain safely
Fast, agile and strong animals!
NEED COMPETENT HANDLING TECHNIQUES
16. Four feet with claws SCRATCH YOU
• (lizards, turtles)
Mouth with teeth, strong jaws BITE YOU
• (lizards, turtles, snakes)
Tail – (lizards) BRUISE/DAMAGE YOU
• particularly dangerous if lizard is >3ft long
• iguanas, monitors
18. Lossor release of the tail
@ transverse cleavage
plates
Iguanas,geckos, some
skinks have tail autonomy
Chameleons, monitors do
not have tail autonomy
Allowsanimal to get away
from danger
19. Need to know:
Appropriate diet / nutrition
Appropriate housing
• Cage size, dimensions
Arboreal species do better with more vertical space in cage
• Lighting needs
• Heat / temperature needs
• Correct humidity for species
Appropriate environment
• Communal or best alone?, diurnal or nocturnal (help
determine when best to handle), hibernate?
22. Not social –
• 2 lizards laying together
DOES NOT = relationship
DOES = need for heat or tolerance
Highly territorial, sometimes violent
Beware that subordinate lizard (smaller, weaker)
may be kept away from heat, food chronic
stress, ill health, starvation
More aggressive during breeding season
23. Secure! Escape proof!
Good ventilation & CLEAN!
Plexiglass, acrylic, glass
Enclosure should be 2-3 times adult length
Also needs to be large enough for climbing
Provide climbing branches, water pool, heat rock
Substrate: Astroturf, news or butcher paper.
Avoid sand, gravel, cat litter, shells, wood
shavings (cedar shavings are toxic)
24. Fullspectrum light! – direct sunlight, UV-B or
FS-type fluorescent sunlamp
• Keep 18-24” away (artificial light)
Heat
• Radiant best, be careful of thermal burns with rocks/logs
• Thermo-neutral zone 75-100 degrees F
Humidity varies with species
• Most desert sp <50%
• Most tropical forest sp 60-80%
25. Mainly herbivores
Important to know what each species needs
Fresh veggies! – dark leafy greens
Calcium rich veggies!
Youngsters – continuously available food / q12h
Adults – feed q24h
Powdered Tums or other Ca++ source weekly
26. Observe, take complete history
• Some species are better to observe then to handle
Firmly immobilize head at all times
• Hold by neck and pectoral girdle with one hand
• Other hand supports body near pelvis & holds hind limbs
Wrap body in towel/blanket
Cover head/eyes with towel
27. Pre-killed whole appropriately sized prey
Feed daily
Monitor weight to prevent obesity
May need to supplement calcium – such
as when feeding diet of pinkies or meal
worms
Dog, cat, trout, monkey chows inadequate
28. Avoid handling for several hours after meal
Don’t catch or lift by tail
Soft cloth to hold geckos – tender skin
Small lizard – hold head between index finger &
thumb
Tube chambers (syringe case for small lizards) can
be used
Beware of claws & teeth!
• Gila monsters & beaded lizard bites are venomous
29. SQ in cranial limbs (lateral scapular)
IM epaxial, triceps muscles (good for large lizards)
IC (intracoelomic) – slightly craniodorsal to right rear leg
Poor absorption of oral medications, but may do oral feeding
Venipuncture - ventral tail vein w/ 23g – 25g needle
Lizard Taste and SmellLizard Taste and SmellThis article has been peer reviewed but is awaiting expert review. Lizards have recourse to three main chemosensory systems: vomeronasal, olfactory and gustatory. The taste buds are poorly developed and are mainly found in the pharynx, tongue and oral epithelium (beneath and lateral to the tongue). They are more abundant in species with fleshy tongues such as the Iguanidae family, reduced in those with keratinized tongues and absent in Varanus indicus (Mangrove monitor - Varanidae family). ChemoreceptionDue to insufficient data, it is difficult to distinguish between taste and vomeronasal function when studying chemosensory-mediated behaviour in lizards. Protusion of the tongue or "tongue flicking", although poorly understood in lizards, seems to be primarily for bringing scent particles to the Jacobson's (vomeronasal) organ for olfaction. The vomeronasal system is a specially modified and highly developed olfactory pit located in the roof of the mouth and innervated by a separate branch of the olfactory nerve. Scent particles picked up from the surroundings by the tongue are conveyed to the palate, to pass up through a duct into Jacobsons organ for 'tasting'. Paired internal nares open just caudal to the tiny openings of the paired vomeronasal organs. Chemical senses are important in the ecology of squamate reptiles. Chemoreception helps mediate the choice and location of prey, individual recognition, choice and location of a mate, exploratory behaviour, identification of surroundings, courtship and copulatory behaviour as well as all other aspects of social behaviour. ReferencesMader, D.R. (2005). Reptile Medicine and Surgery. Saunders. pp. 1264. ISBN 072169327XSchwenk, K. (1985). Occurrence, distribution and functional significance of taste buds in lizards. Copeia 1, 91-101 Schwenk, K. (1995). Of tongues and noses: chemoreception in lizards and snakes. Trends in Ecology and Evolution 10, 7-12 Category: Lizard Anatomy
NATURAL HISTORY Your iguana is known to herpetologists (people who study reptiles and amphibians) as Iguana iguana, or the common green iguana. Your iguana came from one of many countries in Central and South America, and was either caught in the wild or hatched in captivity from an egg laid by a wild-caught or captive pregnant female. Observers in Central America report that huge numbers of wild iguanas are being exported from El Salvador, a country which, though it is signatory to CITES, does not have-or does not care to have-the structure in place to monitor infractions. Captive breeding of iguanas is not yet successful enough to supply the demands of the pet trade. Green iguanas (who may not be green when they reach adolescence or adulthood) live in the rain forests of Central and South America; the ones commonly found in pet and reptile stores come from Columbia, Honduras, Peru, Mexico and Surinam. Because of the destruction of the rain forests and the demands of the wildlife and pet trade, green iguanas are considered to be "threatened" and are listed on Appendix II of the Convention of International Trade of Endangered Species (CITES). This means that the exporters and importers must have special permits to move these reptiles across borders, but it is legal for anyone to buy them once they reach their destination. Other types of iguanas are in danger of extinction and have different import and export laws regulating them. Young iguanas are very green and blend in well with their habitat - the leafy dim lower levels of the rain forest canopy. Their tail is striped to help them disappear while lying still on a branch; their spots and stripes of body color also help them blend in. Older iguanas live higher up in the canopy where it is lighter and drier; young iguanas require a more humid environment. All iguanas are excellent climbers, easily scaling up and down vertical surfaces. They are also proficient swimmers, holding their legs close beside their bodies and using their tail to propel them through the water, similar to the way crocodiles and alligators swim. In the wild, iguanas eat lots of leaves, tender new shoots, flowers and soft fruits. They get some water from catching rain and condensation on the flowers and leaves of the trees, but most comes from their food. In the spring they eat the leaves of plants in the bean family that are high in protein. Despite the information commonly found in the pet literature, field and lab research has repeatedly shown that iguanas are not omnivores - the are strictly herbivorous and should be fed as such in captivity. The daily routine of an iguana goes something like this: as the morning sunlight begins to penetrate the overhead forest canopy, the iguanas begin to move from their night sleeping places to a branch where they can soak up the sun's heat. After a few hours, they are warm enough to move around and forage for food. After climbing, searching and eating for a couple of hours, they move to a basking site to catch the afternoon sun; they must be warm enough to digest the food they have eaten before they go back to their night sleeping places. During the day, the iguana has to be on the look-out for bigger iguanas and for other animals who consider iguanas to be a tasty addition to their diet; young iguanas especially are near the bottom of the food chain, food for other reptiles, large amphibians, birds and mammals. (This also explains why your new iguana is terrified of you--he thinks you're a giant predator ready for an iguana snack.) During breeding season, male iguanas are looking for females, and females are generally trying to avoid overzealous males. Their days are filled with bursts of activity punctuated by long periods of quiet rest. Top Longevity: In the wild, iguanas are expected to live for 10-15 years, assuming they don't become the dinner's main course and have escaped being captured and crated for export. If cared for properly in captivity they may live for 20 years or more, reaching a length of 5-7 feet, weighing up to 18 pounds. You can provide your iguana with the necessities of life in the form of proper housing, heat, light and food. Choosing A Healthy Iguana When you go to the pet store, you will likely be faced with one or more tanks of hatchling iguanas (2.5-3" svl), and possibly one or more older igs ranging from less than one year of age to several years. The older iguanas are all preowned - other people owned them, couldn't deal with their normal (untamed) behavior, or didn't want to deal with the daily grind of cleaning and feeding, or the iguana was sick and they didn't want to have to pay the necessary vet bills. You will have to hold several iguanas. If the store isn't willing to take the time to pick out the ones you want to see, go elsewhere. Unfortunately, there are likely several stores in your area selling them, and you will be sure to find a store who will do this for you. Hold each iguana in both hands, using the fingers of one hand to gently move the arms, legs, and dewlap so that you can inspect the iguana from head to tail tip. What To Look For When Choosing Your Iguana Is the skin clean, clear, firm, free of scratches and bites? (Bites and scratches may lead to infected abscesses later on.) Is the belly free of burns? (Burns may heal, but the skin from then on may always be sensitive to bottom heat.) Is the belly free from ground-in feces? (Dirty iguanas indicate an unsanitary environment and probably a weak and sick animal.) Is the vent free of dried feces and urates? (Presence indicates a weak, and possibly parasite- and protozoan-loaded lizard.) Can you feel the iguana resist you as you move its limbs? (Weakness or shakiness indicates a severely debilitated lizard or one suffering from calcium deficiency.) Are the body, limbs, and tail free of lumps and bumps and swelling other than the joints? (Abscesses, cysts, and broken bones require veterinary care and treatment.) Are there any black, dark reddish brown, or bright orange dots (mites) moving around the iguana's body (look especially carefully around the ears, armpits, and along the neck and dorsal crest)? (Indicates overall poor care and lack of concern in the store and possibly weakened and sick lizard.) Are the back legs shaped normally, or is there a large hard knot in both thighs? (One hard swollen leg may be a broken bone; both similarly swollen is likely to be severe calcium deficiency.) Are the limbs like twigs, or is there some flesh on the bones? Is the body extremely wrinkled, dull looking? (Emaciated, dehydrated; possible internal parasite and/or bacterial infections: requires veterinary care.) Are the eyes bleary, weepy, crusted? (Possible respiratory infection or eye inflammation.) Is the nose free of wet or dried mucous (note: salty deposits are normal)? (Bubbly or dried mucous indicates respiratory infection; requires veterinary care.) Is the interior of the mouth pale or grayish pink? Stringy, ropey, or sheeting mucous? Small yellowish, whitish or greenish patches in gums, tongue or roof of mouth? (Gently pull down on the dewlap to open the mouth) (Systemic infection causing secondary mouthrot; requires veterinary care.) Is the lower jaw swollen out equally on both sides? (Indicates probably metabolic bone disease.) Are there any lumps or swellings on the face, neck, or dewlap? (Note: large sexually mature males often have large fleshy jowls surrounding the large subtympanic scale and soft swellings on the top of their heads--both of which are normal and healthy.) (Swellings, hard or soft, may be infected abscesses; requires veterinary care.) As an increasing number of iguanas are imported every year, and improved care is keeping them alive, and living longer, we know that we are beginning to get it right. The information that has been out there for the past 15+ years is still too-slowly trickling into the pet trade from the biologists and researcher. There have been lots of new products added to the pet store shelves in the past several years. If we were talking about animals who had short lifespans so that these companies could do generational studies on the effects of their foods, we could feel comfortable that we were probably giving our igs the best. But igs don't produce generations every couple of months...igs aren't reproductively successful until their second year, and they should live far longer than they have been due in large part to the poor diet information which presently still floods the pet trade. Thus we have commerical foods that cause metabolic bone disease when fed for a couple of years, and another frozen food product whose "secret" ingredient is Welch's grape jelly, or that simply cause low levels of chronic malnutrition, retarding development and leading to early death. There is also the trade's promulgation of false (and inhumane) beliefs such as "reptiles don't outgrow the size of their enclosure so they can be kept in a 10, 20 or 30 gallon tank for life". The latest trend seems to be telling buyers who are expressing some hesitation about buying a lizard that gets to be 6 feet long that the iguanasthey are selling are a dwarf species. There are no dwarf iguanas. Look critically at ALL new products. Claims such as "full-spectrum" and "iguana approved" are two highly abused terms. If someone tells you to do things one way and you find that all his/her igs have died within 2-7 years, take the recommendations with a healthy serving of doubt. Top EFFECTS OF THE PET TRADE ON IGUANASIguanas have become one of the most popular lizard pets, and, tragically, one of the most disposable. Pet stores that previously only sold supplies are now carrying reptiles, often showcasing their iguanas. Pet supply manufacturers are repackaging existing products and competing with each other to get as many new iguana products out on the market to cash in on the craze. When I got my first iguana, they were selling in stores for $100 or more; many pet stores now offer "specials," with iguanas priced as low as $10. Many people are loathe to spend more on the equipment needed to keep the iguana properly than they spent on the lizard itself. Pet stores that do not really know what iguanas require to thrive in captivity sell only minimal supplies. Many of those who do know what iguanas need, but don't want to see a potential sale fall through, sell whatever they can to a customer who may be more than a little reluctant to buy $200 worth of paraphernalia for a 8-10" lizard that costs less than $20. This aspect of selling iguanas does not even begin to address the problems and misconceptions with iguana nutritional requirements. The 1974 International Zoo Yearbook stated that of the 403,319 live reptiles imported into the United States in 1971, 136,993 were iguanas. This was the largest number of any singles species imported into the U.S. that year. (The remainder included 27,727 boa constrictors and 39,892 lizards of other species.) In 1990, TRAFFIC USA (a program of the World Wildlife Fund) reported that 1-1.5 million live reptiles were imported into the U.S., as well as 3-4 million whole skins, 865,000 partial skins, and 20-30 million products manufactured from reptile artifacts, all totaling some $475-500 million in declared value. Of those one million or so reptiles, the green iguana remained at the top of the list, around 300,000 (1990 trade data). 1993 USFWS data showed that over 750,000 iguanas were imported that year. That comes out to well over 2.6 million iguanas that legally entered the country in the past 18 years. Given the fact that iguanas can, when cared for properly, live easily in excess of 15 years (with 20-plus years not unknown), why are we not seeing big, older iguanas? Because iguanas are not the simple, easy-to-care-for animal portrayed by the pet trade. The excessively high iguana mortality rates are primarily attributable to two main problems: inadequate temperatures and inappropriate diets. Done right, your iguana should enjoy a long and healthy life. If any of the necessities are not provided, your iguana may end up stunted, sick, deformed or dead. A Note on "Rescuing" Iguanas From Pet StoresSome folks see sick iguanas in pet stores and are tempted to buy the animal or help the store out by working with it. Please read this first before taking such a step.Top Necessary equipment, supplies and services: Minimum 55 - 60 gallon tank (for hatchlings - they will out grow it within the year) Undertank heating pad Substrate (suggested to start: paper or terry cloth towels) Hide box straddling the middle of the tank, or one at each end Branch for climbing nearer basking light Daytime basking light or ceramic heating element (100-150 watts) Nighttime heat light (if not using ceramic heating element) (60-100 watts) Thermometers (minimum two, better: three) UVB-producing light Timer (minimum one, for the UVB light; better: one for each of the lights) Dimmer switch (for daytime heat light or ceramic heating element) Water bowl Food dish Multivitamin supplement Calcium supplement Disinfectant Claw clippers Blood clotting aid Povodine-iodine Triple-antibiotic ointment Reptile veterinarian Summary of Key PointsIguanas are not easy-to-care-for lizards. Iguanas get to be 5-6 feet within 4-5 years. Iguanas are folivores, not omnivores. Animal protein is NOT a required food item and should be avoided completely. Iguanas are not suitable pets for children. A tamed, highly socialized iguana will be relaxed around strangers, although such a lizard may seek to climb to the holder's shoulder or head. It will be alert to its surroundings and respond positively to having its back or even head rubbed. Healthy hatchlings and untamed (whether or not pre-owned) juveniles and adults will be feisty and try to get away, may whip or crocodile-roll in trying to escape from your hands, and may be resistant to being picked up to begin with. A sick baby, juvenile, or adult may still try to avoid being caught and held, and may still try to flee, but will do so with less strength, noticeable once you have them in hand. An iguana who just lays in the tank, uninterested in its surroundings, unresponsive in your hands, is either too cold or extremely ill, suffering from internal parasites and possibly systemic bacterial infection. If there are lateral folds (running along the ribs on the side of the body from the forelegs to hip area), this would indicate that the iguana is also likely moderately to severely dehydrated and emaciated (starving) as well. Raising an iguana is neither easy nor something done quickly. Other than the information presented in this document, there are no real shortcuts. You are working with a wild animal, with the instincts and responses of a wild animal, including very strong ones surrounding the drive for self-preservation. A healthy baby iguana is going to fight to stay out of a predator's way...and when you begin your relationship, as far as he is concerned, you are out to hurt or eat him, and you make him very uncomfortable and insecure by placing him in situations and an environment where he is most vulnerable - alone without crowds of other iguanas who provide safety just by their presence. This is not a recommendation to get more than one iguana (one is hard enough to deal with to start) but that so you beging to realize why your iguana is thrashy and nippy, why he needs a hide box, why he won't eat when you are staring at him. In the wild, hanging out on its own, eating while alone, or sleeping in an exposed place alone is a pretty direct route into a predator's mouth. PSYCHOSOCIALIZATIONAn animal kept in captivity who is never reconciled to it's condition lives in a continual state of stress. An iguana who is never tamed and socialized becomes stressed each time it sees or is forced into contact with the main object of stress - humans. An untamed iguana is no fun to interact with and a vicious cycle is established, with the iguana running away and scratching, lashing and even nipping or biting whenever it is caught. As most owners of untame iguanas cannot hold onto them long enough to trim their nails, they either stop trying to hold the iguana or resort to using enormous, or enormously thick, gloves which not only scares the iguana even more, but can cause injury as they are often too thick to be able to accurately gauge the pressure being put on iguana bones. When the iguana has a calcium deficiency, broken bones are all too common. As most vets prescribe complete inactivity and the removal of all cage furnishings during the recovery period, an already barely tamed iguana becomes totally wild (and takes longer to heal due to the lack of weight-bearing activity). Most of the calls I get, and house calls I make, are related to untamed iguanas. Most of the iguanas I am given are wild; at best, they are barely tolerant of very short episodes of human contact. The reason most often cited for getting rid of iguanas two or more years of age is that they are difficult or "impossible" to deal with or the owners start to feel guilty for leaving it locked in a cage day after day while it glares out at them every time they walk by. It is not an impossible task to tame and socialize iguanas. It does take time, it will involve the loss of some skin (yours) and some sleepless nights (yours) and some occasional despairing thoughts (yours). On the flip side, there will be increased mental and physical health (yours and the iguana's), increased interest in its surroundings (the iguana's), and an opportunity to teach your children and others how to interact and get to know another living creature. Top Iguana Psych 101, or The Pavlovian Training of HumansIn the wild, iguanas are somewhat social animals. They are found in groups in trees, basking and foraging together. Amongst herbivores there is little competition for food when food is plentiful. And as long as there remains forest, there is plenty of food for the iguanas living in the trees. There is, however, competition for prime basking areas and, during different seasons, competition for seasonally available fruits and flowers, and for territory and females during the breeding season. Males are the most competitive, with adult males vying for the alpha position - the best basking perch, the biggest territory, the most females. Females are only occasionally territorial, primarily reacting offensively when they wish to be left alone. Young males who are not yet ready to take on mature males may hang out with dominant males, but are always watchful for signs of aggression. When the dominant male begins territorial and attractant behaviors, most younger males take off for the periphery, avoiding as much as possible the attentions of the dominant males. Young males who have reached sexual maturity but who are not yet able to compete successfully against a bigger male often do not adopt breeding colors, retaining instead their juvenile colors which are essentially those of the females, a survival tactic found in many different species throughout the animal kingdom. In captivity, the owner and owner's family are first considered potential predators, later being transforming into competition as the iguana becomes assured that it is not going to be eaten. When you first bring your iguana home, it reacts like most other small animals who find themselves temporarily at the bottom of the food chain: thrashing, puffing up, lashing its tail, opening its mouth so you can see how pink and dangerous it is and, when that doesn't work, it attempts to run away. When you do manage to pick it up, it whips its tail, scratches, crocodile rolls - in short doing everything possible to get away from you. When it does get away or when you give up trying to get it out of its enclosure, you have taught the iguana that it can make you go away. The next time you go to get it out, it will act up again, often more vigorously than it did before. When you go away yet again or put it down as soon as you get scratched or bit, you will have once again reinforced that behavior. (Note: if your new iguana does not act like this but lays placidly in its enclosure and barely objects when you pick it up, you have not lucked out by managing to select an already tame iguana. What you have is a sick iguana. Get it to an experienced reptile veterinarian as quickly as possible; if you can, take a fresh fecal sample with you.) It is at this point that most owners make their biggest mistake. They decide to wait until the iguana calms down; some owners believe that once the iguana settles in or gets a little older, it will be tame. Not! What they do get is a 5 foot, 10 pound iguana who is just as wild and crazy as when they bought it, only now when it doesn't nip, it bites with a set of very powerful jaws and the whippy tail becomes an armored razor-edged lash. It becomes a frightening prospect to remember that the iguana is still not full-grown. Some owners or primary caretakers are able to develop a relationship with their iguana, but the rest of the household gets subjected to the same wild behavior. What happens in this situation is that the owner or primary caretaker has not put up with the wild behavior and so has been established as the alpha entity. The iguana then tries—and usually succeeds—in dominating everyone else. Some owners and families are able to tame their iguana so that it is well behaved with the immediate family but when any outsider to that family unit comes in, even friends of family members who visit frequently, the iguana acts to dominate them. TricksIguanas threaten by using a variety of physical behaviors. When not being held, they stand tall with all four limbs extended; they laterally compress their body to make themselves look even taller; the dewlap swings out to full extension to increase the silhouette-size of their head; the tail twitches and lashes; the open mouth threatens to bite; and "push ups" and bobbing forequarters warn of impending movement. The body is broadside to you to reinforce the illusion of size. When you reach in to pick it up, it may continue to present, may hiss or click-hiss with open mouth, and whip its tail; it is at this point that most people give up. When held, the iguana may claw with all feet, trying to climb out of your grasp, whip your arm or face with its tail while it rolls around inside your grip ("crocodile rolls") in the attempt to wriggle free. Open mouth hissing and click-hissing and nipping complete the threatening behavior. Many determinedly untame iguanas become quite adept at snaking their necks around to deliver a painful bite. These are the behaviors you must not walk away from. When you are holding the iguana in your hands, you should not put it down when they occur, even if you are getting bit and scratched. Sounds easy, but it takes some nerve, patience and perseverance on your part..and a willingness to lose some skin. And blood! (Note: try not to jerk your hand away when you get bit - this will actually make the injury worse than it might otherwise have been. You can trim their claws before you get into heavy training sessions...of course, you have to get enough control over each toe to hold it still enough to cut off just the tip of the claw...without taking off the entire toe! Used the stubby claw nippers with the half-circles cut out of each "blade" and have an open container of blood stop powder--and a handler--close at hand. Top Tips and TechniquesWhen you reach in to get the iguana out of its enclosure, make sure you are well balanced; it won't do either of you any good if you lose your balance just as you grab the iguana, dropping it before you crash to the floor dragging the Vitalite with you. If the iguana continues to elude you, dodging between the basking branches and hide box and water bowl, remove as many furnishings as you need to be able to have a clean shot at him, and take away any places he can hide behind. Don't give up. If it is taking longer than you thought it would and you are getting to (or past) the point where you just don't care any more, don't give up! If you do, the iguana will have won that encounter. You will have reinforced the fact that it can indeed make you go away. If the iguana has gotten out of its enclosure (a polite way of saying that when you finally got him out, you let him get away from you!) and is running around the room or the house, you must get it. It may mean crashing and banging into furniture (you more than the iguana), intruding yourself into that small, dusty place beneath the dresser or behind the bookcase and rearranging the furniture as you move it all to try to get to him, but do it you must. Once you are finally able to pick him up, hold him for at least a couple of minutes. It must be your decision to put him down, not his. If he gets particularly wild, if he scratches, lashes or bites you, do not put him down. If you do, you will have reinforced the concept that scratching, lashing and biting works. It's pure cause and effect, a concept the iguana can easily understand: he hurts you, you put him down. Yes, you are playing a game of wits and nerves with a little green lizard. It may sound stupid, but it is surprising how many people lose this game! Let him climb from hand to hand and roll freely within your hands. Talk gently to him, using his name often. Rock back and forth with him. Try holding him in your hand and extending your arm upright over your head. The iguana should settle down and stop writhing around. After a moment or two of calm, slowly bring him down to your eye level. Support his body in both your hands, thumbs under the belly/chest area, his hind legs resting on your forearms, your fingers arched over his back, his face within a few inches of yours. Continue talking softly, using his name. At this point the iguana should settle down for a few moments. The more often you do this, the less preamble (fighting, lifting) you will have to go through and you will both experience longer periods of calm. The iguana will learn that you won't put it down until it calms down, resulting in an iguana who settles down sooner each time. Expect regression. You may have gone to bed one night ecstatic about the progress you two have made only to find your iguana's evil twin has moved in over night. Just keep at it. Remember that you are bigger and smarter. Or are supposed to be. Frequently remind yourself of these facts. In Conclusion...Take the time to do it right. Be patient. Just as you spent a great deal of money and time setting up the iguana's tank and strive to provide it with the proper environment and diet, use the same patience to work with your iguana. It will take anywhere from 6-8 months (or longer, depending upon the individual's temperament) to reach the point where your iguana is comfortable in most situations. That is a short period of time, indeed, when weighed against the potential lifespan of 20+ years. Be sure to play with the tail when they are young and as they grow. Get them used to it being touched and gently tugged. An iguana who is not freaked when his tail is grabbed is an iguana who is not going to lose it when some untamed little child comes up and yanks on the iguana's tail to get your attention. When you go to grab your ig, place one hand under the pelvis/base of tail area, then slip the other hand under the chest, and scoop it up. This will enable you to pull it out or up out of harms way and lets you swing him easily into a forearm carry (the ig's belly resting on your forearm, legs dangling over each side of your arm, your fore- and middle fingers cradling the neck, tail between your arm and ribs). Most young children (and this includes many kids up into their early 'teens), do not like being scratched and are generally not the ones who should be primarily responsible for the ig's taming and socializing. Taming iguanas should be a family effort as all members of the family ultimately will be sharing their living space with a strong-willed lizard the size of a medium, albeit low-slung, dog. Taming older iguanas is not necessarily more difficult than working with youngsters, but some may never become as fully tame--comfortable and secure in all interactions--as do ones tamed early on. But it can be done and there is no reason not to start now to retrain yourself and your iguana. Iguanas have very individualized personalities, each with their own likes and dislikes. Part of the taming process is to learn what your iguana likes and doesn't like and, as much as possible without compromising the taming and socialization, respect those needs and likes. Though the training and taming time are intense, the rewards great for both you and your iguana.
Iguanas have a urinary bladder (unlike many reptiles)NATURAL HISTORY Your iguana is known to herpetologists (people who study reptiles and amphibians) as Iguana iguana, or the common green iguana. Your iguana came from one of many countries in Central and South America, and was either caught in the wild or hatched in captivity from an egg laid by a wild-caught or captive pregnant female. Observers in Central America report that huge numbers of wild iguanas are being exported from El Salvador, a country which, though it is signatory to CITES, does not have-or does not care to have-the structure in place to monitor infractions. Captive breeding of iguanas is not yet successful enough to supply the demands of the pet trade. Green iguanas (who may not be green when they reach adolescence or adulthood) live in the rain forests of Central and South America; the ones commonly found in pet and reptile stores come from Columbia, Honduras, Peru, Mexico and Surinam. Because of the destruction of the rain forests and the demands of the wildlife and pet trade, green iguanas are considered to be "threatened" and are listed on Appendix II of the Convention of International Trade of Endangered Species (CITES). This means that the exporters and importers must have special permits to move these reptiles across borders, but it is legal for anyone to buy them once they reach their destination. Other types of iguanas are in danger of extinction and have different import and export laws regulating them. Young iguanas are very green and blend in well with their habitat - the leafy dim lower levels of the rain forest canopy. Their tail is striped to help them disappear while lying still on a branch; their spots and stripes of body color also help them blend in. Older iguanas live higher up in the canopy where it is lighter and drier; young iguanas require a more humid environment. All iguanas are excellent climbers, easily scaling up and down vertical surfaces. They are also proficient swimmers, holding their legs close beside their bodies and using their tail to propel them through the water, similar to the way crocodiles and alligators swim. In the wild, iguanas eat lots of leaves, tender new shoots, flowers and soft fruits. They get some water from catching rain and condensation on the flowers and leaves of the trees, but most comes from their food. In the spring they eat the leaves of plants in the bean family that are high in protein. Despite the information commonly found in the pet literature, field and lab research has repeatedly shown that iguanas are not omnivores - the are strictly herbivorous and should be fed as such in captivity. The daily routine of an iguana goes something like this: as the morning sunlight begins to penetrate the overhead forest canopy, the iguanas begin to move from their night sleeping places to a branch where they can soak up the sun's heat. After a few hours, they are warm enough to move around and forage for food. After climbing, searching and eating for a couple of hours, they move to a basking site to catch the afternoon sun; they must be warm enough to digest the food they have eaten before they go back to their night sleeping places. During the day, the iguana has to be on the look-out for bigger iguanas and for other animals who consider iguanas to be a tasty addition to their diet; young iguanas especially are near the bottom of the food chain, food for other reptiles, large amphibians, birds and mammals. (This also explains why your new iguana is terrified of you--he thinks you're a giant predator ready for an iguana snack.) During breeding season, male iguanas are looking for females, and females are generally trying to avoid overzealous males. Their days are filled with bursts of activity punctuated by long periods of quiet rest. Top Longevity: In the wild, iguanas are expected to live for 10-15 years, assuming they don't become the dinner's main course and have escaped being captured and crated for export. If cared for properly in captivity they may live for 20 years or more, reaching a length of 5-7 feet, weighing up to 18 pounds. You can provide your iguana with the necessities of life in the form of proper housing, heat, light and food. Choosing A Healthy Iguana When you go to the pet store, you will likely be faced with one or more tanks of hatchling iguanas (2.5-3" svl), and possibly one or more older igs ranging from less than one year of age to several years. The older iguanas are all preowned - other people owned them, couldn't deal with their normal (untamed) behavior, or didn't want to deal with the daily grind of cleaning and feeding, or the iguana was sick and they didn't want to have to pay the necessary vet bills. You will have to hold several iguanas. If the store isn't willing to take the time to pick out the ones you want to see, go elsewhere. Unfortunately, there are likely several stores in your area selling them, and you will be sure to find a store who will do this for you. Hold each iguana in both hands, using the fingers of one hand to gently move the arms, legs, and dewlap so that you can inspect the iguana from head to tail tip. What To Look For When Choosing Your Iguana Is the skin clean, clear, firm, free of scratches and bites? (Bites and scratches may lead to infected abscesses later on.) Is the belly free of burns? (Burns may heal, but the skin from then on may always be sensitive to bottom heat.) Is the belly free from ground-in feces? (Dirty iguanas indicate an unsanitary environment and probably a weak and sick animal.) Is the vent free of dried feces and urates? (Presence indicates a weak, and possibly parasite- and protozoan-loaded lizard.) Can you feel the iguana resist you as you move its limbs? (Weakness or shakiness indicates a severely debilitated lizard or one suffering from calcium deficiency.) Are the body, limbs, and tail free of lumps and bumps and swelling other than the joints? (Abscesses, cysts, and broken bones require veterinary care and treatment.) Are there any black, dark reddish brown, or bright orange dots (mites) moving around the iguana's body (look especially carefully around the ears, armpits, and along the neck and dorsal crest)? (Indicates overall poor care and lack of concern in the store and possibly weakened and sick lizard.) Are the back legs shaped normally, or is there a large hard knot in both thighs? (One hard swollen leg may be a broken bone; both similarly swollen is likely to be severe calcium deficiency.) Are the limbs like twigs, or is there some flesh on the bones? Is the body extremely wrinkled, dull looking? (Emaciated, dehydrated; possible internal parasite and/or bacterial infections: requires veterinary care.) Are the eyes bleary, weepy, crusted? (Possible respiratory infection or eye inflammation.) Is the nose free of wet or dried mucous (note: salty deposits are normal)? (Bubbly or dried mucous indicates respiratory infection; requires veterinary care.) Is the interior of the mouth pale or grayish pink? Stringy, ropey, or sheeting mucous? Small yellowish, whitish or greenish patches in gums, tongue or roof of mouth? (Gently pull down on the dewlap to open the mouth) (Systemic infection causing secondary mouthrot; requires veterinary care.) Is the lower jaw swollen out equally on both sides? (Indicates probably metabolic bone disease.) Are there any lumps or swellings on the face, neck, or dewlap? (Note: large sexually mature males often have large fleshy jowls surrounding the large subtympanic scale and soft swellings on the top of their heads--both of which are normal and healthy.) (Swellings, hard or soft, may be infected abscesses; requires veterinary care.) As an increasing number of iguanas are imported every year, and improved care is keeping them alive, and living longer, we know that we are beginning to get it right. The information that has been out there for the past 15+ years is still too-slowly trickling into the pet trade from the biologists and researcher. There have been lots of new products added to the pet store shelves in the past several years. If we were talking about animals who had short lifespans so that these companies could do generational studies on the effects of their foods, we could feel comfortable that we were probably giving our igs the best. But igs don't produce generations every couple of months...igs aren't reproductively successful until their second year, and they should live far longer than they have been due in large part to the poor diet information which presently still floods the pet trade. Thus we have commerical foods that cause metabolic bone disease when fed for a couple of years, and another frozen food product whose "secret" ingredient is Welch's grape jelly, or that simply cause low levels of chronic malnutrition, retarding development and leading to early death. There is also the trade's promulgation of false (and inhumane) beliefs such as "reptiles don't outgrow the size of their enclosure so they can be kept in a 10, 20 or 30 gallon tank for life". The latest trend seems to be telling buyers who are expressing some hesitation about buying a lizard that gets to be 6 feet long that the iguanasthey are selling are a dwarf species. There are no dwarf iguanas. Look critically at ALL new products. Claims such as "full-spectrum" and "iguana approved" are two highly abused terms. If someone tells you to do things one way and you find that all his/her igs have died within 2-7 years, take the recommendations with a healthy serving of doubt. Top EFFECTS OF THE PET TRADE ON IGUANASIguanas have become one of the most popular lizard pets, and, tragically, one of the most disposable. Pet stores that previously only sold supplies are now carrying reptiles, often showcasing their iguanas. Pet supply manufacturers are repackaging existing products and competing with each other to get as many new iguana products out on the market to cash in on the craze. When I got my first iguana, they were selling in stores for $100 or more; many pet stores now offer "specials," with iguanas priced as low as $10. Many people are loathe to spend more on the equipment needed to keep the iguana properly than they spent on the lizard itself. Pet stores that do not really know what iguanas require to thrive in captivity sell only minimal supplies. Many of those who do know what iguanas need, but don't want to see a potential sale fall through, sell whatever they can to a customer who may be more than a little reluctant to buy $200 worth of paraphernalia for a 8-10" lizard that costs less than $20. This aspect of selling iguanas does not even begin to address the problems and misconceptions with iguana nutritional requirements. The 1974 International Zoo Yearbook stated that of the 403,319 live reptiles imported into the United States in 1971, 136,993 were iguanas. This was the largest number of any singles species imported into the U.S. that year. (The remainder included 27,727 boa constrictors and 39,892 lizards of other species.) In 1990, TRAFFIC USA (a program of the World Wildlife Fund) reported that 1-1.5 million live reptiles were imported into the U.S., as well as 3-4 million whole skins, 865,000 partial skins, and 20-30 million products manufactured from reptile artifacts, all totaling some $475-500 million in declared value. Of those one million or so reptiles, the green iguana remained at the top of the list, around 300,000 (1990 trade data). 1993 USFWS data showed that over 750,000 iguanas were imported that year. That comes out to well over 2.6 million iguanas that legally entered the country in the past 18 years. Given the fact that iguanas can, when cared for properly, live easily in excess of 15 years (with 20-plus years not unknown), why are we not seeing big, older iguanas? Because iguanas are not the simple, easy-to-care-for animal portrayed by the pet trade. The excessively high iguana mortality rates are primarily attributable to two main problems: inadequate temperatures and inappropriate diets. Done right, your iguana should enjoy a long and healthy life. If any of the necessities are not provided, your iguana may end up stunted, sick, deformed or dead. A Note on "Rescuing" Iguanas From Pet StoresSome folks see sick iguanas in pet stores and are tempted to buy the animal or help the store out by working with it. Please read this first before taking such a step.Top Necessary equipment, supplies and services: Minimum 55 - 60 gallon tank (for hatchlings - they will out grow it within the year) Undertank heating pad Substrate (suggested to start: paper or terry cloth towels) Hide box straddling the middle of the tank, or one at each end Branch for climbing nearer basking light Daytime basking light or ceramic heating element (100-150 watts) Nighttime heat light (if not using ceramic heating element) (60-100 watts) Thermometers (minimum two, better: three) UVB-producing light Timer (minimum one, for the UVB light; better: one for each of the lights) Dimmer switch (for daytime heat light or ceramic heating element) Water bowl Food dish Multivitamin supplement Calcium supplement Disinfectant Claw clippers Blood clotting aid Povodine-iodine Triple-antibiotic ointment Reptile veterinarian Summary of Key PointsIguanas are not easy-to-care-for lizards. Iguanas get to be 5-6 feet within 4-5 years. Iguanas are folivores, not omnivores. Animal protein is NOT a required food item and should be avoided completely. Iguanas are not suitable pets for children. A tamed, highly socialized iguana will be relaxed around strangers, although such a lizard may seek to climb to the holder's shoulder or head. It will be alert to its surroundings and respond positively to having its back or even head rubbed. Healthy hatchlings and untamed (whether or not pre-owned) juveniles and adults will be feisty and try to get away, may whip or crocodile-roll in trying to escape from your hands, and may be resistant to being picked up to begin with. A sick baby, juvenile, or adult may still try to avoid being caught and held, and may still try to flee, but will do so with less strength, noticeable once you have them in hand. An iguana who just lays in the tank, uninterested in its surroundings, unresponsive in your hands, is either too cold or extremely ill, suffering from internal parasites and possibly systemic bacterial infection. If there are lateral folds (running along the ribs on the side of the body from the forelegs to hip area), this would indicate that the iguana is also likely moderately to severely dehydrated and emaciated (starving) as well. Raising an iguana is neither easy nor something done quickly. Other than the information presented in this document, there are no real shortcuts. You are working with a wild animal, with the instincts and responses of a wild animal, including very strong ones surrounding the drive for self-preservation. A healthy baby iguana is going to fight to stay out of a predator's way...and when you begin your relationship, as far as he is concerned, you are out to hurt or eat him, and you make him very uncomfortable and insecure by placing him in situations and an environment where he is most vulnerable - alone without crowds of other iguanas who provide safety just by their presence. This is not a recommendation to get more than one iguana (one is hard enough to deal with to start) but that so you beging to realize why your iguana is thrashy and nippy, why he needs a hide box, why he won't eat when you are staring at him. In the wild, hanging out on its own, eating while alone, or sleeping in an exposed place alone is a pretty direct route into a predator's mouth. PSYCHOSOCIALIZATIONAn animal kept in captivity who is never reconciled to it's condition lives in a continual state of stress. An iguana who is never tamed and socialized becomes stressed each time it sees or is forced into contact with the main object of stress - humans. An untamed iguana is no fun to interact with and a vicious cycle is established, with the iguana running away and scratching, lashing and even nipping or biting whenever it is caught. As most owners of untame iguanas cannot hold onto them long enough to trim their nails, they either stop trying to hold the iguana or resort to using enormous, or enormously thick, gloves which not only scares the iguana even more, but can cause injury as they are often too thick to be able to accurately gauge the pressure being put on iguana bones. When the iguana has a calcium deficiency, broken bones are all too common. As most vets prescribe complete inactivity and the removal of all cage furnishings during the recovery period, an already barely tamed iguana becomes totally wild (and takes longer to heal due to the lack of weight-bearing activity). Most of the calls I get, and house calls I make, are related to untamed iguanas. Most of the iguanas I am given are wild; at best, they are barely tolerant of very short episodes of human contact. The reason most often cited for getting rid of iguanas two or more years of age is that they are difficult or "impossible" to deal with or the owners start to feel guilty for leaving it locked in a cage day after day while it glares out at them every time they walk by. It is not an impossible task to tame and socialize iguanas. It does take time, it will involve the loss of some skin (yours) and some sleepless nights (yours) and some occasional despairing thoughts (yours). On the flip side, there will be increased mental and physical health (yours and the iguana's), increased interest in its surroundings (the iguana's), and an opportunity to teach your children and others how to interact and get to know another living creature. Top Iguana Psych 101, or The Pavlovian Training of HumansIn the wild, iguanas are somewhat social animals. They are found in groups in trees, basking and foraging together. Amongst herbivores there is little competition for food when food is plentiful. And as long as there remains forest, there is plenty of food for the iguanas living in the trees. There is, however, competition for prime basking areas and, during different seasons, competition for seasonally available fruits and flowers, and for territory and females during the breeding season. Males are the most competitive, with adult males vying for the alpha position - the best basking perch, the biggest territory, the most females. Females are only occasionally territorial, primarily reacting offensively when they wish to be left alone. Young males who are not yet ready to take on mature males may hang out with dominant males, but are always watchful for signs of aggression. When the dominant male begins territorial and attractant behaviors, most younger males take off for the periphery, avoiding as much as possible the attentions of the dominant males. Young males who have reached sexual maturity but who are not yet able to compete successfully against a bigger male often do not adopt breeding colors, retaining instead their juvenile colors which are essentially those of the females, a survival tactic found in many different species throughout the animal kingdom. In captivity, the owner and owner's family are first considered potential predators, later being transforming into competition as the iguana becomes assured that it is not going to be eaten. When you first bring your iguana home, it reacts like most other small animals who find themselves temporarily at the bottom of the food chain: thrashing, puffing up, lashing its tail, opening its mouth so you can see how pink and dangerous it is and, when that doesn't work, it attempts to run away. When you do manage to pick it up, it whips its tail, scratches, crocodile rolls - in short doing everything possible to get away from you. When it does get away or when you give up trying to get it out of its enclosure, you have taught the iguana that it can make you go away. The next time you go to get it out, it will act up again, often more vigorously than it did before. When you go away yet again or put it down as soon as you get scratched or bit, you will have once again reinforced that behavior. (Note: if your new iguana does not act like this but lays placidly in its enclosure and barely objects when you pick it up, you have not lucked out by managing to select an already tame iguana. What you have is a sick iguana. Get it to an experienced reptile veterinarian as quickly as possible; if you can, take a fresh fecal sample with you.) It is at this point that most owners make their biggest mistake. They decide to wait until the iguana calms down; some owners believe that once the iguana settles in or gets a little older, it will be tame. Not! What they do get is a 5 foot, 10 pound iguana who is just as wild and crazy as when they bought it, only now when it doesn't nip, it bites with a set of very powerful jaws and the whippy tail becomes an armored razor-edged lash. It becomes a frightening prospect to remember that the iguana is still not full-grown. Some owners or primary caretakers are able to develop a relationship with their iguana, but the rest of the household gets subjected to the same wild behavior. What happens in this situation is that the owner or primary caretaker has not put up with the wild behavior and so has been established as the alpha entity. The iguana then tries—and usually succeeds—in dominating everyone else. Some owners and families are able to tame their iguana so that it is well behaved with the immediate family but when any outsider to that family unit comes in, even friends of family members who visit frequently, the iguana acts to dominate them. TricksIguanas threaten by using a variety of physical behaviors. When not being held, they stand tall with all four limbs extended; they laterally compress their body to make themselves look even taller; the dewlap swings out to full extension to increase the silhouette-size of their head; the tail twitches and lashes; the open mouth threatens to bite; and "push ups" and bobbing forequarters warn of impending movement. The body is broadside to you to reinforce the illusion of size. When you reach in to pick it up, it may continue to present, may hiss or click-hiss with open mouth, and whip its tail; it is at this point that most people give up. When held, the iguana may claw with all feet, trying to climb out of your grasp, whip your arm or face with its tail while it rolls around inside your grip ("crocodile rolls") in the attempt to wriggle free. Open mouth hissing and click-hissing and nipping complete the threatening behavior. Many determinedly untame iguanas become quite adept at snaking their necks around to deliver a painful bite. These are the behaviors you must not walk away from. When you are holding the iguana in your hands, you should not put it down when they occur, even if you are getting bit and scratched. Sounds easy, but it takes some nerve, patience and perseverance on your part..and a willingness to lose some skin. And blood! (Note: try not to jerk your hand away when you get bit - this will actually make the injury worse than it might otherwise have been. You can trim their claws before you get into heavy training sessions...of course, you have to get enough control over each toe to hold it still enough to cut off just the tip of the claw...without taking off the entire toe! Used the stubby claw nippers with the half-circles cut out of each "blade" and have an open container of blood stop powder--and a handler--close at hand. Top Tips and TechniquesWhen you reach in to get the iguana out of its enclosure, make sure you are well balanced; it won't do either of you any good if you lose your balance just as you grab the iguana, dropping it before you crash to the floor dragging the Vitalite with you. If the iguana continues to elude you, dodging between the basking branches and hide box and water bowl, remove as many furnishings as you need to be able to have a clean shot at him, and take away any places he can hide behind. Don't give up. If it is taking longer than you thought it would and you are getting to (or past) the point where you just don't care any more, don't give up! If you do, the iguana will have won that encounter. You will have reinforced the fact that it can indeed make you go away. If the iguana has gotten out of its enclosure (a polite way of saying that when you finally got him out, you let him get away from you!) and is running around the room or the house, you must get it. It may mean crashing and banging into furniture (you more than the iguana), intruding yourself into that small, dusty place beneath the dresser or behind the bookcase and rearranging the furniture as you move it all to try to get to him, but do it you must. Once you are finally able to pick him up, hold him for at least a couple of minutes. It must be your decision to put him down, not his. If he gets particularly wild, if he scratches, lashes or bites you, do not put him down. If you do, you will have reinforced the concept that scratching, lashing and biting works. It's pure cause and effect, a concept the iguana can easily understand: he hurts you, you put him down. Yes, you are playing a game of wits and nerves with a little green lizard. It may sound stupid, but it is surprising how many people lose this game! Let him climb from hand to hand and roll freely within your hands. Talk gently to him, using his name often. Rock back and forth with him. Try holding him in your hand and extending your arm upright over your head. The iguana should settle down and stop writhing around. After a moment or two of calm, slowly bring him down to your eye level. Support his body in both your hands, thumbs under the belly/chest area, his hind legs resting on your forearms, your fingers arched over his back, his face within a few inches of yours. Continue talking softly, using his name. At this point the iguana should settle down for a few moments. The more often you do this, the less preamble (fighting, lifting) you will have to go through and you will both experience longer periods of calm. The iguana will learn that you won't put it down until it calms down, resulting in an iguana who settles down sooner each time. Expect regression. You may have gone to bed one night ecstatic about the progress you two have made only to find your iguana's evil twin has moved in over night. Just keep at it. Remember that you are bigger and smarter. Or are supposed to be. Frequently remind yourself of these facts. In Conclusion...Take the time to do it right. Be patient. Just as you spent a great deal of money and time setting up the iguana's tank and strive to provide it with the proper environment and diet, use the same patience to work with your iguana. It will take anywhere from 6-8 months (or longer, depending upon the individual's temperament) to reach the point where your iguana is comfortable in most situations. That is a short period of time, indeed, when weighed against the potential lifespan of 20+ years. Be sure to play with the tail when they are young and as they grow. Get them used to it being touched and gently tugged. An iguana who is not freaked when his tail is grabbed is an iguana who is not going to lose it when some untamed little child comes up and yanks on the iguana's tail to get your attention. When you go to grab your ig, place one hand under the pelvis/base of tail area, then slip the other hand under the chest, and scoop it up. This will enable you to pull it out or up out of harms way and lets you swing him easily into a forearm carry (the ig's belly resting on your forearm, legs dangling over each side of your arm, your fore- and middle fingers cradling the neck, tail between your arm and ribs). Most young children (and this includes many kids up into their early 'teens), do not like being scratched and are generally not the ones who should be primarily responsible for the ig's taming and socializing. Taming iguanas should be a family effort as all members of the family ultimately will be sharing their living space with a strong-willed lizard the size of a medium, albeit low-slung, dog. Taming older iguanas is not necessarily more difficult than working with youngsters, but some may never become as fully tame--comfortable and secure in all interactions--as do ones tamed early on. But it can be done and there is no reason not to start now to retrain yourself and your iguana. Iguanas have very individualized personalities, each with their own likes and dislikes. Part of the taming process is to learn what your iguana likes and doesn't like and, as much as possible without compromising the taming and socialization, respect those needs and likes. Though the training and taming time are intense, the rewards great for both you and your iguana.
Bearded dragons have a number of body postures. "Arm waving" is usually a sign of submission. Both male and female dragons will puff up their "beards" to appear more frightening and males will exhibit this behavior to impress the females during mating season. "Head bobbing" is a way for male dragons to show dominance. Both sexes may "hiss" if startled.Beardies are usually docile and like to be handled. Dragons should be scooped gently by placing a hand under their belly.Bearded dragons are lizards native to Australia and Tasmania. The most popular "beardie" for pets is the Inland Bearded Dragon (Pogona Vitticeps), also known as the Central Bearded Dragon. Bearded dragons are typically between 16-22 inches long and can vary in color from yellow to tan to brown. Identified by broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, they have spines on the throat, sides of the head, and sides of the body. They are diurnal (active during the day) creatures and hunt for insects, small lizards and mammals. Since they are omnivorious, they will also forage for fruit, flowers, and other plant material. When threatened, dragons will expand the skin around their throat which gives the appearance of a "beard." Juvenile dragons will spend a significant amount of time in and around trees or bushes, though if it becomes too hot they will burrow underground. Female dragons can lay up to nine clutches of eggs every year. Each clutch contains between fifteen and thirty eggs and they incubate for between 55-75 days. As with most reptiles, the parents give the hatchlings no additional care. Young beardies mature between one and two years of age.Because of their docile nature, willingness to breed in captivity, and flexible diet, they are considered good pets by many reptile enthusiasts. Before acquiring one, however, consider the costs involved. Bearded dragons require appropriate habitats, UV lights, heaters, large quantitities of food (especially when young), and trips to the vet. All these expenses can add up over the course of their ten year life span.Although quite hardy, Bearded Dragons are susceptible to a variety of ailments, including parasites, impactions, and respiratory diseases. The greatest health threat to the Bearded Dragon, however, is metabolic bone disease, which results from a calcium deficiency. Metabolic bone disease causes a weakening of the bone leading to deformities which are quite painful in Bearded Dragons, as well as other reptiles. To prevent metobolic bone disease, Bearded dragons must receive adequate amounts of calcium in their diets, as well as both UVA and UVB light. Parasitic infestations in Bearded Dragons come from insects, greens, and unclean cages. If your beardie appears listless, is losing weight, or has smelly, running droppings for a period of time, chances are he has parasites and should be taken to a reptile vet for treatment. If left untreated, parasites can be detrimental to your dragon’s health and may even lead to death. Proper temperature and humidity levels in your beardie's environment are important to maintain in order to prevent respiratory problems. Signs that your beardie may be suffering from respiratory problems may be clogged nostrils, mucus, raspy breathing or breathing through the mouth. Treatment involves antibiotics supplied by your reptile vet and adjusting the environment of your beardie's cage.Egg binding is a common ailment in breeding females. This happens during the first breeding cycle, with infertile eggs. To prevent egg binding, make sure the female dragon is old enough, large enough, and healthy enough for breeding. Egg binding can only be corrected by a vet.Adenovirus is a relatively new problem that attacks mostly young or weak Bearded Dragons. This often fatal virus is hard to detect and often look like calcium deficiency. Currently the only way to accurately diagnose adenovirus is by autopsy. Infected animals need to be force fed, and given lots of fluids and antibiotics to combat secondary bacterial infections. Care should be taken when acquiring a new Bearded Dragon to make certain it is not infected with this deadly disease.A large enough "cage" is very important for beardies. Aquarium tanks make good habitates. Juveniles under ten inches can manage in a 20gal. aquarium, but adult dragons should be housed in a 55-60 gal. tank. It is essential for the tank to have a proper substrate (material lining the bottom). The best substrate is one that is inexpensive, absorbent, easily cleaned, and digestible if swallowed. Some appropriate substrate materials include paper towels, indoor/outdoor carpeting, and newspaper. Do not use cedar shavings, gravel, crushed corn cob, kitty litter, or wood shavings. A screen top will allow adequate ventialtion and let humidity escape.In their natural habitat, these dragons use rocks and limbs for basking and shedding their skin so it's important to duplicate this in captivity. Pieces of oak and rocks that are flat on one side work well.Because reptiles are cold-blooded, they cannot regulate their own body temperatures. Bearded dragons need a temperature gradient in their environment. Enclosures should contain a basking area that is around 95-105 degrees F. The "cool" side of the tank should be between 75-85 degrees F. A thermometer in each area of the tank is recommended. Stick on types should be avoided, however, since they can be off by as much as 20 degrees. Accuracy is important! Do not let the temperature drop below 65 degrees F. DON'T USE HOT ROCKS AS SOURCES OF HEAT.Lighting is another key element in the environment of bearded dragons. Dragons need a certain spectrum of ultraviolet (UV) light called UVB to make Vitamin D. The best source of this is natural sunlight. Dragons can be placed outside if it is warm enough, but don't use a glass cage. The glass traps the heat and the excessive temperatures can harm or even kill the dragons. Use a wire or screen cage and provide a shaded area in case the dragons get too hot. The second best light source for UVB are special mercury or fluorescent tubes.Clean their habitat on a regular basis with a mixture of bleach (10%) and water (90%). Make sure to thoroughly rinse the bleach mixture off. Anything sprayed with bleach must be completely free of bleach and bleach odors before the dragons are returned to their enclosure. Remove feces daily.Dragons can carry the salmonella bacteria so handwashing should be a ritual, BEFORE AND AFTER handling dragons and their cages.Site SearchSearch: NewsHave a Happy & Safe HolidayGeneral Lights, decorations, good food…every year, as we celebrate the holidays, we fill our homes with seasonal cheer for ourselves and our families. However, what may seem beautiful and harmless to us may pose hidden dangers to our pets. Don't let an emergency spoil the festivities! Here are some common holiday hazards for dogs and cats and how to prevent them.A normal diet for captive bearded dragons includes ample quantities of leafy greens and vegetables, and regular meals of feeder insects, such as crickets, roaches, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, earthworms, and phoenix worms. Avoid fireflies as they are poisonous to these creatures. Feeder insects should be sprinkled with a calcium supplement, and any uneaten prey should be removed from the enclosure daily. Good vegetable choices are romaine lettuce, kale, collard, endive, escarole, parsley, or swiss chard. Variety is important, and the vegetbles should be torn into small pieces. Do NOT give them iceberg lettuce. Remember, the size and amount of the food should be proportional to the size of the dragon: i.e. small dragon, small portions. Dragons can become ill if their portions are too large.Juveniles need more protein, while older beardies get along well with slightly less protein and more vegetables. Though dragons get some water from their food, it is still important to provide fresh water daily in a shallow bowl. Misting them occasionally will help them in the shedding process.Bearded dragons are sexually mature between one and two years of age. When the males and females are ready to mate, there can be head bobbing and "beard" puffing. The act itself appears rough as the male grabs the back of the female's neck and positions himself. Mating in the wild takes place during the spring and summer months. The female digs a burrow and will lay an average of twenty eggs. After incubation from the parchment-like eggs, the three to four inch hatchlings are on their own.Beardies can be bred in captivity year round, though they do best if allowed to complete a "resting period" called a brumation cycle. This is a period of two to three months when the temperature and daylight hours are reduced. Care must be given to keep the eggs warm enough and to separate the juveniles. Smaller babies shouldn't be left with larger ones as the larger will begin to see the smaller ones as food.Books / ArticlesThe Bearded Dragon: An Owner's Guide to A Happy Healthy Pet by Steve Grenard/Paperback/Published 1999.The General Care and Maintenance of Bearded Dragons(The Herpetocultural Library Series) by Philippe De Vosjoli/Paperback/Published 1997.Bearded Dragons (Reptile and Amphibian Keeper's Guide) by Richard Bartlett & Patricia Bartlett/Paperback/Published 1999.BreedersOther Linkswww.beardeddragons.comwww.beardeddragon.orghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bearded_Dragonwww.pets-lovers.com/beardeddragoncaresheet.htm
Savannah monitors like to hide in dark areas, so be sure to provide an adequate place in your lizard's cage for hiding. TamingSavannahs tend to be docile if handled frequently when they are young and young animals are usually easier to tame. Some monitors, however, no matter how often they are handled, will remain aggressive. With young lizards, start handling them and petting them on the neck and sides for brief periods several times a day. The more time you spend with your lizard, the easier (and faster) it will tame. Allow your new monitor to become accustomed to its surroundings before you begin taming it. It may take up to 2 to 3 weeks for your lizard to be acclimated to its new home. It should be eating on a regular basis, and appear relaxedSite SearchSearch: NewsHave a Happy & Safe HolidayGeneral Lights, decorations, good food…every year, as we celebrate the holidays, we fill our homes with seasonal cheer for ourselves and our families. However, what may seem beautiful and harmless to us may pose hidden dangers to our pets. Don't let an emergency spoil the festivities! Here are some common holiday hazards for dogs and cats and how to prevent them.Savannah monitors are found in the wild in the desert scrubland habitats in Central South Africa. They grow to be 2.5 to 3 feet long and normally weigh 11 to 12 pounds when fully grown. The adults require quite enclosures of at least 72" x 24" x 24" when kept in captivity. Savannah monitors are usually voracious eaters, unless they are sick or in breeding season. Adult monitors (3 feet or more) should be fed twice a week. In the wild, Savannahs experience a cycle of feasting and fasting, due to the seasonal changes in their environment. During th rainy season, food sources are plenty. But during the dry seasons, food becomes scarce (hence the need to fast). The feasting period is approximately 4 months, with a fasting period lasting the remaining 8 months of the year. In captivity, however, these lizards experience no such cycle and therefore have a tendacy to over eat and become fat. Wild Savannahs primarily eat insects, snails, eggs, and small rodents. The lizard will eat up to one-tenth of its own body weight in a day. The excess nourishment becomes fat which is stored in its tail and adipose bodies of the abdomen. The monitor will rely on the reserves of fat during the periods of fasting when food is scarce. As the captive Savannah does not experience the severe changes in seasons that would cause periods of feasting/fasting, you should take care not to over feed your lizard at any time. Monitors that over eat and get very little exercise will become obese. A lizard suffering from obesity may develop liver disease or other health problems which could shorten its life span. However, young Savannahs that are fed only small amounts of food while they are growing may become stunted. Always offer your lizard a variety for proper nutrition. It is a good idea to dust the food with calcium and vitamins for added nutrition. A good diet may consist of any of the following: crickets waxworms earthworms mealworms caterpillars earthworms snails roaches lean ground turkey beef hearts ZuPreem Tegu Commercial Monitor food Your monitor may like an occassional treat of quality dog or cat food and eggs. But avoid feeding it a continuous diet these goodies as they are high in protein and are fattening. Keep in mind cat food is particularly rich and may cause diarrhea. RodentsFeed appropriate sized rodents (mice, hamsters, rats) only. Judge what size rodent to feed your lizard by the size of the lizard's head and mouth when fully open. Feeding prey that is too large may cause the lizard to vomit. Very young lizards(1 foot and under) can be fed 1 to 4 baby mice (pinkies, fuzzies, hoppers) every two to three days. Juvenile monitors(1 foot to adult size) can be fed 1 to 4 adult mice twice a week. Adult monitors can be fed 1 to 2 small to medium-sized rats per feeding. Use only a small water bowl for drinking and provide fresh water daily. Clean and disinfect the water bowl frequently. Savannah monitors also enjoy soaking if provided with a large enough container of water. Site SearchSearch: NewsHave a Happy & Safe HolidayGeneral Lights, decorations, good food…every year, as we celebrate the holidays, we fill our homes with seasonal cheer for ourselves and our families. However, what may seem beautiful and harmless to us may pose hidden dangers to our pets. Don't let an emergency spoil the festivities! Here are some common holiday hazards for dogs and cats and how to prevent them. They require a large amount of space and a fairly large amount of food to be properly maintained. This species requires only low levels of humidity. Any monitor, including Savannah monitors, should be treated with respect, because they are extremely strong for their size, and have very sharp teeth. Savannahs listed as a "threatened" species in their natural habitat, due to the pet trade, trade in reptile skins, and the fact that they are used in their native countries as a source of food. Savannah monitors are usually first purchased as hatchlings or juveniles. Choosing a lizard:It is best to choose a young animal (hatchling or juvenile, under 2 feet long). While animals raised from birth by humans make the best pet, monitors don't breed easily in captivity. Please check with your pet supplier to find out if your lizard is from a reputable breeder or was captured wild. The monitor should be active and alert, free from sores and abrasions, clean around the vent and belly (not caked with feces), of solid weight (not too fat, not too thin), outgoing but not aggressive, and reasonably calm when handled. Usually young monitors will squirm when first handled, and sometimes they will defecate. This is normal and will diminish with frequent handling. Site SearchSearch: NewsHave a Happy & Safe HolidayGeneral Lights, decorations, good food…every year, as we celebrate the holidays, we fill our homes with seasonal cheer for ourselves and our families. However, what may seem beautiful and harmless to us may pose hidden dangers to our pets. Don't let an emergency spoil the festivities! Here are some common holiday hazards for dogs and cats and how to prevent them. Respiratory Infections - It is important to maintain adequate temperature in your monitor's environment, especially at night, to prevent respiatory infection. Respitory infection can result if the air is not warm enough, or if you have air from forced air heaters blowing into your lizard's cage. Such an illness will cause a Savannah monitor to stop eating which could bring on further health problems. Symptoms of respitory infection may include coughing and mucus in the throat, which can bubble out of the mouth and nostrils, particulary when you press on the throat. Another sign that your lizard may be suffering from respitory infection is if the animal keeps its head elevated. If the infection is caught early enough, a simple remedy may be to keep the temperature a constant 90-95 degrees day and night for a few days. Short sessions 3-4 times a day with a vaporizor may help the animal breath easier. An injection of antibiotics such a Baytril may be necessary (administered by a vet). It is recommended that you have your lizard treated by a veterinarian that is experienced with reptiles. Claw TrimmingMonitors have sharp claws that need trimming regularly. It is best to have two people tend to the task, with one person holding the lizard while the other trims the claws. The person holding the lizard should tuck the animal's tail under the arm to prevent either groomer from being lashed. One hand should grasp the area of the neck and forelegs while the other hand grasps the area in front of the hind legs. Use professional reptile claw clippers, available in most pet stores. Take care to cut only the tips of the claws and not the blood vessel. Should the claw be clipped too closely that bleeding occurs, wipe the claw with disinfectant and dip the bleeding tip in corn starch. Keep the female well fed at all times but increase her food intake when she is in heat. Signs of a female in heat include an increase in size, with a bloated appearance. During breeding, the male will approach the female by flicking his tongue at her vent. You may notice his head jerking as he tries to mount her. She may try to escape and whip her tail. She should never try to bite him. Once the male has the femail pinned, he may scratch the base of her tail with his back legs. When he get his taill under hers, copulation will begin. The breeding activity may go on for several days. Copulation will take place 3-4 weeks before the eggs are ready to lay. About 1 to 1.5 weeks before she deposits her eggs, the female will increase her intake of food and bask much of the time. During this time she will increase in size and and become noticeably gravid. When the eggs are ready to be laid, you will be able to feel them inside of her as you run your fingers along her underside. Just 2 to 3 days before she lays her eggs, her tail will appear emaciated. Once the female is noticeably gravid, remove the male from the cage and add a nesting box, Fill the box with sand mixed with a little cypress mulch to hold a burrow well. A Rubbermaid tub with a hole in the lid for her to get in and out of makes a good nesting box. Approximately a week or two before laying her eggs, the female will starts digging extensively in the nesting box. She may dig a few burrows until she is satisfied with one. To lay her eggs, she positions herself with the lower half of her body in the burrow. It may take a few hours for her to deposit all her eggs in as many as three clutches. The eggs will need to be incubated in a Hovabator on vermiculite at 29 degrees Celsius. Mix the vermiculite with just enough water so that when the mixture is squeezed it clumps together and no water leaks out. If the eggs start to dimple, carefully add a bit more water to it and they usually bounce back within a day or two. Too much water will destroy the eggs and cause them to mold. For more information on breeding Savannah monitors, contact Ravi at varanus@idirect.com or visit his web site at The Monitor Spot http://themonitorspot.comRecommended Reading 1. Savannah MonitorsJohn Coborn,J. Coborn / Paperback / TFH Publications, Inc. / November 1994 Our Price: 2. General Care and Maintenance of Savannah MonitorsMichael J. Balsai / Paperback / BowTie Press / May 1992 This title is not presently stocked by Barnes & Noble. A used copy of this title may be available. Check availability from Barnes & Nobles network of book dealers. Other Links LLL Reptile and Supply Company Link: http://www.lllreptile.comColorado Herpetological Society The Cold Blooded News - Savannah Monitors by Amy Magness Link: http://www.coloherp.org/cb-news/archive/careshts/Savannahs.phpDan and Shelli's Home Page - Monitors Link: http://my.pclink.com/~dkelley/monitors.htmNational Alternative Pet Association Responsible Exotic Animal Care - Reptiles and Amphibians Link: http://www.altpet.net/petcare/herps.shtmlSavannah Monitors Link: http://savannahs.8m.com/SavannahHome.htmMelissa Kaplan's Herp & Iguana Care Information Collection Link: http://www.anapsid.org/monitors.html
There are actually several hundred species of geckos, and several are kept as pets. The requirements and difficulty of care will vary with different species so it would be wise to know what you are getting and what will be needed to provide a good home for your gecko. You should also consult multiple sources rather than relying on one source, as inconsistencies can sometimes be found between different sources. Information is provided within these pages on the most popular kinds kept as pets: Leopard, African Fat-Tailed, Day, Madagascar Ground Geckos, and Tokay Geckos. Despite folklore to the contrary, a gecko's bite is not poisonous. Many species are arboreal, while others inhabit human dwellings. Most lack movable eyelids and have characteristic pads on the undersides of their feet that enable them to cling to smooth surfaces and to run upside down on ceilings. The pads contain microscopic backward-projecting hairs covered by tiny pads that may generate an adhesive force. Geckos are animals having a notochord, or dorsal stiffening rod, as the chief internal skeletal support at some stage of their development. Geckos come in a variety of beautiful patterns/colors depending on the species. Most geckos are nocturnal (they are most active at night); they have large eyes and excellent vision. They feed on small animals, chiefly insects. Nearly all lay eggs. Geckos are unique among lizards in that they possess voices, and different species make characteristic sounds. Some species of geckos make a squeaking or clicking noise that sounds like "gecko," hence their name. The largest species is the 14-in. (35.5-cm) tokay, Gekko gecko, of SE Asia. The wall gecko, Tarentola mauritanica, of the Mediterranean region is commonly seen basking by day on walls and rocks; it hunts by night. There are two native species in the United States, the leaf-fingered gecko (Phyllodactylus tuberculatus) of extreme S California and Baja California, and the banded, or ground, gecko (Coleonyx variegatus) of the deserts of the SW United States and N Mexico. The latter is a ground-dwelling form and lacks foot pads. In Florida there are several introduced West Indian species as well as the widely distributed Turkish gecko, Hemidactylus turcicus, originally from Africa. Never grab a gecko by the tail, for they will drop their tails (a natural defense against predators). If this should happen, however, do not panic. It will grow back, although it may have a different shape and/or color. Geckos use the tail for fat storage, so the gecko should be well fed (and ideally separated from their cage mates) until the tail has regrown. TokayNocturnal. Reputation for biting; they are fiesty and can deliver a painful bite, so be careful. With regular interaction they usually become less aggressive but generally will not be good for handling. They can be quite vocal and that is where their name arises: their call sounds like "To-kay! To-kay!", a rather booming bark. They also emit a trilling sound. Never house males together.Tokays have the specialized lamellae on the pads of their toes which enable them to walk on vertical surfaces, including ceilings. Contrary to popular misconception, these pads are not "sticky" but rather are composed of tiny, microscopic filaments which find equally tiny imperfections in surface - including glass.Like many lizards, tokays can darken or lighten their ground and spot colors to better blend in with their background. Despite the fact that they follow human habitation, finding human dwellings to be great places to find prey, Tokays are the least lovable of the geckos. They are known for their nasty temperament, cheerfully biting the hand that feeds, cleans or otherwise comes into anything resembling close proximity to them. Their bites are powerful--one might say they are the pit bulls of the gecko world...they hang on and let go only when it suits them. Equipped as they are with numerous sharp teeth, the bites can bleed profusely and, even barring subsequent infection, are annoying for days. While some animals can be habituated to human contact, such contact can be stressful for many species, and geckos, as a whole, are known for their marked preference to be left alone. LeopardNocturnal, ground dwelling, and generally docile and easy to tame. They do not have the toe pads like other geckos so do not climb very well. They do have eyelids, also unlike other geckos. Madagascar GroundYoung Madagascar Ground Geckos - like most small animals - are highly sensitive to potential threats. They will typically try and escape whenever an attempt is made to pick them up. Despite this initial sensitivity, Madagascar Ground Geckos are actually very easy to handle and adults are typically very docile animals.This species is docile, eats readily, and is long lived which makes it a hardy animal ideally suited for beginners.; however, hatchlings should be left for about a month without any handling to make sure they get on a good feeding schedule. Most people make the mistake of handling their animal too soon and they end up with a very stressed lizard that refuses to eat. For the first few months, the contact you should have with your lizard should be for feeding, cleaning, and changing water only. DayThese are not good geckos for beginners. For owners with no experience with day geckos, "Leaping Lizards Day Geckos" recommends giant day geckos, gold dust day geckos, or lined day geckos.Day geckos are active during the day, unlike most other geckos (hence, the name). They are generally fairly fragile and it is not a good idea to handle them as their skin is quite delicate. They can be quite territorial and sometimes need to be housed singly. These geckos are excellent climbers - their toe pads have tiny filaments (setae) that allow them to cling to almost any surface, so can climb glass wall, ceilings etc. Watch for escape artists, though! African Fat-TailedNocturnal. Usually quite docile; can be shy. Never house males together.One major problem with Fat-tailed geckos is that their systems are somewhat weaker than leopard geckos. A Fat-tail will direct 25% of its energy into self-preservation and little into reproductive success. Therefore, a routine worming twice yearly is required. Immediately after the last eggs of the year and just before the next breeding season, worming should be done. Tokay Young are 2-3" at hatching. Eggs are laid in rocky crevices or under the eaves of houses. The 2-3 eggs, laid several times a year, are sticky and adhere to surfaces. In captivity, they may be laid on the glass sides of their terraria. Incubation time for the eggs ranges from 2-6 months for the oviparous Gekko species. Leopard There is little visible sexual difference between male and female leopard geckos. The male seems to have a broader head and neck than the female and their body is usually somewhat larger. However, looking at the undersides, adult males have a prominent V-shaped row of pre-anal pores while the pre-anal pores of the female are barely noticeable. Adult males also have hemipenile swellings and a wider tail base.The sex of the leopard gecko seems to be determined by the temperature at incubation. Eggs incubated between 79-83 are generally female, 84-86 are about half of each sex, and above 87 are usually male. Madagascar Ground Madagascar Ground Geckos are one of the easiest species of lizard to breed in captivity. These animals do not require any special conditioning before breeding with the exception of being in good health. Some authors recommend a cooling period and a reduction in the day length but this is not necessary to induce breeding. Breeding can occur year round with proper care of the adults. Females typically lay three clutches of two eggs which they fertilize with sperm from an earlier mating. Eggs should be removed and placed in an incubator. Incubation of the eggs should take place at a temperature of 26 o -29 o C (82 o - 88 oF) and a relative humidity of 60 to 70 %. DayBreeding season is determined by temperature and photo period if the proper climate and diet are provided. As lighting hours and temperature increase in Spring, females should be provided additional food and supplements. Day geckos are either gluers or non-gluers. Non-gluers lay two or one calcareous hard-shelled eggs in a protected location such as a leaf joint or open bamboo section. Gluers attach the egg or eggs to leaves or other hard surfaces and are easily broken if an attempt is made to remove them. The eggs of gluers must be incubated in place unless the object to which they are attached can be moved to an incubator. Most fertile eggs can be incubated at a temperature of 82 degrees Fahrenheit (28 degrees C) with small variations in temperature and will hatch in 38 to 90 days depending on the species. Eggs can be hatched in an incubator by placing them on a small plastic lid placed on top of a bed of slightly moistened vermiculite (1:1 ratio of vermiculite to water by weight) African Fat-TailedThe breeding season of the Fat-tail is between Oct. and June, but different breeding colonies may have unique schedules. Mating normally occurs in Dec. and the first clutch of eggs can be expected from fifteen to forty-five days later. For females who are just beginning to cycle, the laying time is usually the full 45 days. After being bred once the female can continue laying good eggs for at least 5 clutches, with delayed implantation of the male's sperm. If the female is bred by a different male after laying the first clutch, it will take at least one clutch more before the first male's sperm is purged and the second male's offspring start to be produced. Clutches of five are normal, but 13 is not impossible, with two eggs in each clutch. These occur twelve to twenty-two days apart, depending upon the temperature of the habitat. Geckos that produce many eggs one year may lay fewer the following year.Grooming and Hygiene Always wash your hands before and after touching your gecko or habitat contents to help prevent Salmonella and other infectious diseases Signs of a Healthy Pet: Consistent behavior Healthy skin Clear eyes Eats regularly Clear nose and vent Body and tail are rounded and fullCommon Health Issues and Red Flags:Mucus in mouth or nose Lethargic Swelling Labored breathing Paralysis of limbs or tail Abnormal feces Bumps, sores or abrasions on skin Weight loss or decreased appetite Respiratory disease – labored breathing and mucus in the nose and mouth. A cold or damp habitat is commonly the cause. Contact your veterinarian.Metabolic bone/vitamin deficiency – inability to absorb calcium due to insufficient UVB light. This can result in deformities and soft bones, swollen limbs and lethargy. Contact your veterinarian.Vitamin A Toxicity - This is a common problem that occurs when dragons are over supplemented. Many multi-vitamins contain levels of VitA and should be offered sparingly. Toxicity is characterized by a swelling of the throat and eyes, and proceeding to a bloating of the body and lethargy. Internal Parasites - Symptoms of internal parasites include weight loss, worms in the stools, runny stools, gaping and listlessness. If you observe a combination of these symptoms you should take your gecko to a veterinarian to have a stool sample examined to determine if there are any parasites present and if so, what kind they are. Follow their recommendation for treatment. Tokay The majority of the tokays in pet stores are wild caught and, like all wild caught imported reptiles, heavily stressed, usually dehydrated, often emaciated, and always parasitized. Take a fresh fecal to a reptile veterinarian for a fecal flotation to determine if the animal is infected with worms; if so, treatment is required (generally, oral medication administered 2-3 times over a period of 2-3, or 4-6 weeks). LeopardLeopard geckos may live 20 or more years. They will grow to approximately 8-10 inches long.Be wary of feeding insects from your yard! These insects may be contaminated by pesticides and or herbicides used in the area. Even if you don't use pesticides, someone in the neighborhood might, and therefore the insects may be affected.It is not advisable to use types of insects you are uncertain of as being safe food. They may be toxic to your gecko. Fireflies caught in the summers are thought to cause death to some reptiles. Recent studies have demonstrated that "the ingestion of fireflies (or "lightning bugs", as they are sometimes called) can kill lizards and, thus, should be considered potentially toxic to all herps." (Adler, 1998)Playground sand should not for use with juveniles as geckos will ingest the sand and it can result in impaction and death. Other substrate that may cause problems are: bark, shavings and other products made with moss. They are easily ingested and have been known to cause impaction potting soil as the geckos may eat the perlite it contains cedar or pine as the fumes and resins can be toxic to reptiles astroturf with rough edges as the geckos will ingest the particles that fray off. Madagascar Ground This species lives to be between 8 and 10 years old in captivity. Day Day geckos usually grow to be between 4 to 10 inches long and may from 3 to 15 years African Fat-TailedThese geckos can live 15+ years and reach 8-10 inches in size.One major problem with Fat-tailed geckos is that their systems are somewhat weaker than leopard geckos. A Fat-tail will direct 25% of its energy into self-preservation and little into reproductive success. Therefore, a routine worming twice yearly is required. Immediately after the last eggs of the year and just before the next breeding season, worming should be done. TokayBeing a larger lizard, a 20 gallon tank is the minimum size recommended to allow enough room for the gecko to grow and to be able to properly establish a temperature gradient (75-90/days, 70-80/nights). They do not require a UVB-producing fluorescent. For night-time heating, a non-white light heat source must be used (such as a nocturnal reptile bulb, ceramic heating element, etc) should be used. Heat provided from above the tank is preferable since geckos tend to climb up. Provide sturdy branches for climbing, and strong potted plants can be added (artificial plants could also be used). Also provide some hiding spots using cork bark, half logs, or caves.Orchid bark or coconut husk based substrate are good choices for their moisture retaining qualities.A woodland setting (orchid bark from a nursery) planted with small potted plants or leafy silk branches provide hiding places and help keep up the humidity. Humidity should be kept at about 70% (do not let it drop under 50%) by misting. The proper substrate will help retain humidity.They may rarely be seen as they are strictly nocturnal. Leopard A 15-20 gallon tank is large enough for 2-3 geckos, but there should only be one male per tank (and only keep males and females together if prepared to deal with offspring!). Half logs provide hiding and climbing space, as can commercial reptile caves and simple cardboard boxes. A damp hide box can help with shedding (a plastic container with a hole in the lid, with moist soil or moss inside).Young geckos shouldn't be kept on sand, as they may ingest it and get a blockage. Paper is absorbent and easy to change, and indoor outdoor carpet works well too. Avoid wood shavings. Whatever is used, make sure it is not being ingested along with the gecko's meals.Being nocturnal, leopard geckos require no special UV lighting. A regular incandescent bulb could be used to provide a basking spot, but leopard geckos probably prefer dimmer conditions so consider using a red bulb or ceramic heating element to provide the temperature gradient. Undertank heaters can also be used. Daytime Temperature: basking spot of 90 F (32 C) with a gradient to low 80s F (around 27 C). Night Temperature: can drop as low as mid 70s F (around 25 C) Madagascar GroundA 10 gallon aquarium is the minimum size for a single gecko. Rock, branches, live or artificial plants, and cork bark can be used to decorate the tank. Make sure a couple of hides (caves, boxes, flower pots etc) are provided, one at either end of the temperature gradient. A small dish of water should be provided.A substrate that retains humidity is preferred: coconut fiber, orchid bark, sphagnum moss, peat moss, or a mixture work well.A day time gradient of 85-90 F (29-30 C) should be maintained; this can drop to 74-76 F (23-24 C) at night . Heat can be provided with undertank heat tape, and this can be suppllmented with a lamp using a bulb designed for nocturnal reptiles. Humidity should be mainitained at 50-75% by regular misting of the tank. A small humidity retreat (container with damp sphagnum moss inside) should also be provided. DayAs a general rule, day geckos need a tank that is tall with branches to climb. Stalks of bamboo can be placed in the tank, along with branches or live plants (snake plants, bromeliads, other tropical plants). Lots of cover and hiding spots should be provided to make the geckos feel secure. A substrate peat moss, potting soil (no vermiculite) or orchid bark can be used.Generally daytime temperatures run between 80-89 F (27-31 C), with a drop to 70-80 F (21-27 C) at night. All day geckos need fairly high humidity, ranging anywhere from 50% all the way up to 85% depending on the species. Use of live plants and a preoer substrate will help maintain humidity levels, along with misting of the tank.Day geckos need exposure to ultraviolet light, so UVA/UVB emitting reptile bulbs will be required. An incandescent light can be used to provide a basking spot. If more heat is needed, ceramic elements or undertank heating can be used. African Fat-TailedA 10 gallon tank is probably sufficient for a single fat tail, but larger is better. Hides, logs, cork bark pieces, rocks, and plants can be provided.Orchid bark, cypress mulch, coconut fiber bedding, or peat moss can be used for a substrate and will help maintain humidity. Hides, logs, cork bark pieces, rocks, and plants can be provided.The daytime temperature gradient should be around 85-90 F (29-32 C) but can drop to 75-80 F (24-27 C) at night. Undertank heating is preferred, although a heat lamp (a nocturnal bulb works well) can be used as well if needed. No UV lighting is necessary. Humidity should be quite high (over 50%) and maintained by misting several times a week and providing a shallow water dish at all times. A humidity retreat is also a good idea (e.g. a small container with damp spaghum moss inside). TokayTokay geckos are usually voracious eaters and can be fed a variety of insect prey (crickets [properly gut-loaded for at least 24 hours before feeding out], superworms, mealworms [also gut-loaded]), waxworms, grasshoppers, cockroaches, etc). Larger tokays may take pinky mice. In addition to having food gut-loaded prior to feeding, and it should also be dusted with a vitamin supplement containing calcium.Juveniles can be fed daily; adults every other day or so. They generally will not drink out of a bowl of water, so one area of a tank wall should be sprayed every day (evening) to furnish water for them to lap up. Another way to boost humidity and provide water for lapping is to place some ice cubes on top of the screened top over the plants...the meltwater drips on the leaves for easy lapping. LeopardA shallow dish of water should be provided, and cleaned very regularly.Leopard geckos are insectivores: feed a variety of crickets, waxworms, mealworms (in moderation only) and even an occasional pinkie mice for adults. Insects must be gut loaded for at least 24 hours prior to feeding, and coated with a calcium/D3 supplement (every feeding for young lizards, every other feeding for adults). Feed juveniles daily (a few crickets), adults can be fed every other day (6-10 crickets). Madagascar GroundFeed crickets, freshly molted mealworms and occasional waxworms. All prey should be gut loaded and dusted with a multivitamin containing calcium (but not phosphorus). Adults can be fed every 2-3 days and juveniles every 1-2 days. DayInsects make up the bulk of a day gecko's diet in captivity, although some with eat some fruits such as papaya and mango or even fruit baby food. They should also be supplemented with a vitamin supplement with calcium and vitamin D3 (no phophorus). African Fat-TailedFeeding Fat-tailed geckos is the same as for leopard geckos. Crickets are the best food source. With a calcium/phosphorous ratio of 1:1 and good mineral and vitamin supplementation, Fat-tails will stay healthy. Mealworms fed once a month, after the geckos are six months old are all right. But because they are a poor calcium source, with a calcium to phosphorous ratio o 1:14, they must be supplemented. Placing them in a bowl of mineral supplement during feeding will ensure the animals ingest the needed minerals. No wax worms should be used because they are too high in fat content and their calcium to phosphorous ratio is 1:401. Feeding baby mice to adult geckos is not necessary, but after egg laying they can quickly help rebuild the gecko's fat reserves. Mice also have a good calcium to phosphorous level of 1:1. Remember that what goes into the gecko determines what comes out as far as healthy eggs!
