Bar-tack machine Level of Technology

1. Department Apparel Technology
Apparel Technology
Individual assignment
Prepared by
Name ID
Solomon Eshetu MTR/298/12
Submitted to: Mr.Areda.B
Submitted Date: 30/01/2020

2. Apparel Technology
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU 1
1
ar tacking is a type of reinforcement stitching used by the fabric and
textile industries to fortify stress points in clothing, sporting
equipment, uniforms, and a host of other products. The bar tack
stitch is a tight zigzag pattern repeated perpendicularly over itself several
times to make sewn products stronger, and resistant to tears or rips in the
seams. Commercially, either a special bar tacking machine or an industrial
sewing machine with a bar tack attachment can be used for this purpose.
Industrial bar tack machine
is actually a lockstitch machine
group. By this machine, a very
high density lockstitch is
produced in very short length
for increase the strength of that
particular place. These
machines are used for
sewing both woven and knitted
garments. For light thickness
fabrics, needle size should be
lower and heavy thickness
fabric, height needle size
should be used.
Bar Tracking Sewing Machine is
used to secure pocket corners, belt
loops, the open end of a button hole,
zipper flies. Bar Tracking Sewing
Machine is also used for small
decorative tracks and shapes.
B

3. Apparel Technology
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU 2
2
Technology for Cross tacking, Bar tacking
&
Square tacking operation in Cargo
n this article We will discuss
Level of technology, solutions
available for an operation, makes
and models of machinery and
equipment available in the market
and return on investment
comparison for basic and highest
level of technology for operation in
cargo pant. The level of micro work
of proper alignment and attaching
can be simplified by a semi-
automatic machine & fully
automatic. Apart from cost
effectiveness, quality is an added
advantage which we will not take
into account for tangible profit
analysis.
Basic Level
 Semi-Automatic
Highest Level
 computer control
I

4. Apparel Technology
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU 3
3
asic Level
Technology
The basic level of
technology is electronic
lockstitch. Stitch class:
300, Group: lock stitch type. In this
machine there is two source of
thread one is needle thread, another
is bobbin thread. By interlacement
of this two thread stitch is formed.
Bobbin thread is stored in a bobbin
which is placed under the needle bed
of the machine. The needle of this
machine moves a little front and
back to form the stitch in a limited
length of stitch in a heavy dense
stitch to increase the seam strength
on that point.
At first, this machine produces tack
stitches in a small length (1-2 cm)
and then sews covering stitches over
and at right angles to the first
stitches. The variables are the
number of tacking stitches and the
number of covering stitches. Typical
uses are closing the ends of
buttonholes, reinforcing the ends of
pocket openings and the bottoms of
flies and sewing on belt loops.
The adjustment points of this
machine are needle, pressure feed,
stitch length, stitch density.
Bar tacking is used to reinforce
pockets, zippers, crotch seams,
button holes, and belt loops. All of
these points are prone to added
stress while being worn.
B

5. Apparel Technology
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU 4
4
 Machinery and equipment required for Basic Level of Technology:
Bar tack
Mark and Model Features and Specification of Machinery and Equipment
Brother KE 430
Electric Direct Drive Lockstitch Bar-Tacker
Maximum Sewing speed-3,200 SPM, Pattern Size X*Y-40*30
max, Stitch length-0.05-12.7mm,motor AC servo 550W,Number
of Stored Data- 89 sewing pattern are set already, Power source-
Single Phase 100v/220v.
Sun star
BS(BR)1201 H
Electronically Controlled Bar-tacking Machine
Sewing Scope (X,Y)- X : 40mm Y : 20 mm, Maximum Speed-
Max 3,200spm, Stitch Width- 0.1 ~ 10 mm, Presser foot height-
Max 17 mm, Maximum Patterns- Maximum 99 patterns (default
32 ＋ 67 additional), Motor Specification- 550W AC servo motor
(standard power: 600 W), Power- Single-phase : 100~240V
dvanced Level of Technology
Advanced level of Technology is computer control. The direct-drive
head (with no belt), which is directly connected to a compact AC servomotor,
achieves outstanding. This head helps create a comfortable working
environment with reduced vibration and noise.
The arm section of the machine head is fitted with a hand pulley. This allows
the operator to visually check the needle entry points. The machine's starting,
stopping, thread-trimming and automatic presser lifting speeds have been
increased to significantly shorten total cycle time.
The machine is highly
productive and provided as
standard with 51 different
sewing patterns. This is an
excellent high speed
computer-controlled bar-
tack machine which enables
to register as many as 99
cycles of which each cycle
can contain 99 sewing
patterns as well as good
responsiveness to various
sewing patterns
A

6. Apparel Technology
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU 5
5
 Machinery and equipment required for Advance Level of
Technology: Bar tack
Mark and Model Features and Specification of Machinery and Equipment
JUKI LK-
1900BN Series
Computer-controlled, High-speed, Bar-tacking Sewing System
Max. sewing speed-3,200sti/min✽ (at the time of delivery:
2,700sti/min✽), Sewing area-30mm (L) × 40mm (W), Stitch
length-0.1~10mm (0.1mm step), Needle bar stroke-41.2mm, Lift of
the work clamp foot- Standard 13mm (17mm when the reverse-
rotation needle-up function), Hook- Standard shuttle hook
Number of stitches- Max. 20,000 stitches that can be stored in
memory, Sewing machine motor- Compact AC servomotor
(direct-drive system), Power supply / Power consumption
Single-phase 200~240V / 250VA. Warranty: 3 years
Jack T1900G Computer-controlled, High-speed, Bar-tacking Sewing System
max sewing field 40 x30 mm, max speed 3,200 spm, stitch length
12.5- 12.7mm, max number of stitches 210,000 data, max foot
height 17mm, auto thread cutter standard, auto thread wiper
standard, usb flash memory, 100 pre-set programs, motor 750
watt direct drive, 110v or 220 1 phase
ROI for Basic and Advance Level of Technology
Depreciated Value = Net Book Value/[1+Depreciation Rate/100]year
ROI for any year = {[(CM Price from total machine till that year)[ – [(total expenses
like operator salary till that year)]} / Depreciated value of total machine, expressed as a
percentage.
Basic level of
Technology
Advance level of
Technology
Working days=22x12=264 264 264
Production per day 472 840
Production per day (shift of 8 hrs) 4
cargo pocket
118 210
Production per annual,264 116,112 206,640
Cost output per annual
(Assume cost cargo $0.50)(1)
58,056 103,320
Total operator’s salary / annual (2) 30,000@ 2500/month 36,000@3000/month
Cost of one M/C ,US $ 1013 1850
Depreciation 10% 10%
Total depreciated value of machinery
(3) after one year
920.9 1681.81
ROI for first year (1-2)/3 30.46% 40.02%

7. Apparel Technology
PREPARED BY SOLOMON ESHETU 6
6