Manipulating fabric - The Art of Manipulating Fabric
JYC Styling & Design 2015
1.
2. OVERVIEW LIGHT WOVEN
shell fabric tape
0,6 cm as facing inside
frontshldr
crossed over
towards
the back
sideseam is
crossing over
towards the backsidelaser cut
edge
slit
11,5
cm
6,5
shell fabric tape
0,6 cm as facing inside
back side hem
front side hem
towards the
back
replaced sideseam
28 cm
Front
Back
nrml shldr
line
8,5
cm
8,5
cm
9,5
cm
9,5
cm
12
cm
example for neck construction
= silk
dart
2-needle stitch
max 0.6 cm
# heavy 50 yarn TTT
= zigzag ( height:6 mm) with thick
embroidery yarn.TTT with base color.
dart
towards
the back replaced
side seam
1,5
0,8 cm shell fabric tape
as facing in armhole
2 rows
of smock.
fancy
cross
stitch on
top0,8 cm twin needle
stitched
s;ightly loose tension
smock made with elastic
yarn ( 1,5 cm from pocket
strap)
0,4
cm
1,5 cm
folded pleat
4
small
gathering
tunnel
1,5 cm
shell fabric strap
1 cm, max. exposed length relaxed
= 25 cm
shell fabric strap
1,5 cm, max. exposed length
each side = 150 cm
1 x fancy bead
on end
of strap
3 x fancy bead on end
of strap
small
opening
in seam
HSP
24
58
5
sideline
4,5
cm
sideseam is crossing over
towards the backside
sideviewofsideconstruction
NO SIDE SEAM
BUT SIDE PANEL
4,5
CM
TOWARDS
THE FRONT
REPLACED
SHLDR SEAM
HSP
5 CM
TOTAL
POCKET
LENGTH = 18 CM
DART
UNDERFACING
56
CM
32
CM
5. OVERVIEW LEATHER
HSP
CBline
no side
seam
raw cut
edge
4 cm
4 cm
28cm
46cm
3,5 towards the
front replaced
shldr seam
towards the
front replaced
side seam
3 cm
dart
9 11
10
14,5
20
blind zipper
55 cm
small hook & eye
inside above end of blind zipper
no side
seam
5,5 cm
20 cm
slit
raw cut
edge
6 cm
dart
raw cut
edge
raw cut
edge
raw cut
edge
4 cm
elasticated WB
6 mm
2 needle stitch
6 mm
2 needle stitch
6 mm
2 needle stitch
raw cut
edge
4 cm
elasticated WB
consumption
cutting
SIDESEAM
raw cut
edge
raw cut
edge
1x1 firm
Jersey knit & Lycra
1x1 firm
Jersey knit & Lycra
4 cm
elasticated WB
6 mm
2 needle stitch
6 mm
2 needle stitch
28
10,5
44
6,5
6.
7. OVERVIEW KNIT
fully
fashion3 GG
knit
3 GG
knit
3 GG
knit
3 GG
knit
seam nicely
turned towards
the outside
hand stitch
see picture
1x1 knit
4 cm
1x1 knit
4 cm
No sideseam!
No sideseam!
Milano
stitch
2,5 cm
Milano
stitch
2,5 cm
1x1 knit
3cm
HSPHSP
fully
fashion
elbow path:
length =18,5 cm
width =12.5 cm
15,5 cm
seam nicely
turned towards
the outside seam nicely
turned towards
the outside
seam nicely
turned towards
the outside
seam nicely
turned towards
the outside
seam nicely
turned towards
the outside
Fancy knit
horizontal
patent knitting stitch
horizontal
patent knitting stitch 12
self end
knit
self end
knit
self end
knit
fancy
knit as
picture
/sample shawl
fancy
knit as
picture
/sample shawl
cable
28 cm
9 cm
yarn braided
loop: 7 cm
fasten in one point
57
cm
centerfront
5,5 cm
towards
the front replaced
shldr seam
4,5
cm
linked
loose full needle
belt
5 cm x 175 cm
60
cm
3GG reversed knit
24
21
19
10
cm
hood detail.
CF
82
cm
40
cm
40
cm
45 cm
37 cm
OUTSIDE
LINKING
OUTSIDE
LINKING
1x1 knit
1,5 cm tight
with Lycra
self ending
KNIT DIRECTION
2,2 cm
tunnel
width
65 cm
Harringbone tape TTT
pulled through tunnel
exposed length max 17 cm each side
25 cm
6cm
6cm
14,5
13,5
7 cm
2 x 1 knit
11 cm
1 x 1 knit
1 cm
tubular
SEAM NICELY
TURNED TOWARDS
THE OUTSIDE
pointelle holes
( max 4 mm)
1 cm
tubular
20 cm
44 cm
40 cm
totalwidth=65cm
28cm
lurex mix yarn
as per sample
lurex mix yarn
as per sample
MOS STITCH
Braided Cable
total width = 155 cm
3 ply: 7GG
REVERSED
HORIZONTAL KNIT
21,5
x3,5
10,5
position of
button inisde
Pls add
8 cm on
underpanel
Pls add
8 cm on
underpanel
TIGHT
HSP
11.5
self
ending
fully
fashion
10
1x1 knit
1.2
tubular
double D-ring
3 cm
6
1x1 knit
TIGHT
HSP
fully
fashion
1.2
tubular
50
11.5
8
CF
12.5
8.5
15
12.5
10
9
as finishing
inisde :full needle
tape: 1 cm
as finishing
inisde :full needle
tape: 1 cm
self ending
6
1x1 knit
TIGHT
TIGHT
HSP
fully
fashion
10
1x1 knit
6
1x1 knit
TIGHT
1.2
tubular
61.5
total front length
from HSP = 61.5 cm
19.5
HSP
11.5
DOUBLE
HSP
1x1 knit
3 cm
3.5
bartack TTT
3
= Washed silk TTT
small
pleats
4 x dept 1 cm
55
total back length
from HSP = 55 cm
small
pleat
2 x 1 cm
38
8 x 2
silk shell fabric
strap
Fancy cross stitching on silk
shell fabric strap;
pls use thick embroidery yarn TTT
self
ending
8.
9. 2
HSP
twisted
knot
cutting
twisted
panel
0,8 cm shel fabric
tape as facing
0,8 cm shel fabric
tape as facing
10
cm
10
cm
slanted towards
the front replaced
sideseam
18
cm
fancy elastic
satin rib tape
2,5 cm
12,5
28 cm
38 cm
safety
39
cm
2,5 cm
4 cm small inverted
pleat: 1,2 x 1,2 cm
24cm
HSP
cutting
cutting
only at back side
4 cm facing
folded inwards
opening
to pull
fancy elastic
tape through
3 cm tunnel
20 cm 17
cm
48 cm
pleat
dept 1,2 cm
strap
fasten
in sideseam
shldr strap
fasten blind
2,5 only..rest is
loose & fasten in sideseam
as per sketch
10
cm
OVERVIEW JERSEY
18
4.5 CM TOWARDS
THE FRONT REPLACED
SHLDR SEAM
SMALL BUTTON
14L & SMALL SHELL FABRIC
LOOP
POSITION ABOUT
26 CM FROM HSP
0.6 CM
SMALL SHELL
FABRIC BINDING
ON EDGE
SMALL
INVERTED
PLEAT
2 X 0.75 CM
HSP
SMALL
GATHERING
25
22 CM
2 CM SHELL
FABRIC BINDING
BLIND
TOTAL COLLAR
HEIGHT
AT CB =
20 CM
BLIND
STITCHING
DART
15
CM
HSP
38
FOLDED PLEAT
AT CF
5
10
42
2
CUTTING
6.5
24
1st fit sample
Slanted towards
the front
replaced sideseam
dart/cutting
small shell
fabric loop
Pocket
stitched
underneeth
raw cut edge
button
18L/
11,4 MM
13,5 cm
chest pocket detail
15
2-needle stitch
max 0.4 cm
Slanted towards
the front
replaced sideseam
no
side
seam
2,5 cm
3
13,5
only stitching
on top
pocket is underneeth
HSP
CBline
0,8 cm
jersey tapeTTT
19,5
32
31
pls add stitching as
close as possible next
to neck & sleevebinding..
so binding
is not twisted outwards
but look is still Blind!!
no
side
seam
10,5
Slanted
towards
the back
replaced
sideseam
towards the back
replaced shldr seam
4
6
1 cm
blind binding