Presentation given at the wine tasting "US and Californian wines . The Cult Cabernets and the innovative example of Promontory Estate"

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US and Californian wines,
The Cult Cabernets and the
innovative example of the
Promontory Estate
- M. Moreschini – AIS Sommelier , ONAV Wine taster and WSET3 level awarded
Brussels, 28 November 2019

2. The vine generally grows between the 30th and 40th parallel in the
Emisphere South and between the 40th and the 50th parallel in the
Northern
30°
60°
30°
Viticulture

3. Wine production
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4. Wine comsumption
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United States Wine Regions

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GRAPES

7. United States- Terroir, climate and soil
CLIMATE:
Very varied and, if we exclude Alaska,
temperate. Three climatic zones, two
coastal zones and a central area where
the climate takes on continental
features.
Wine Production 21 Ml hl
SOIL:
Very variable but always quite fertile
in the wine areas.

8. A bit of history
Indigenous grapes variety (not Vitis vinifera): V.
Labrusca, V. Rupestris, V. Riparia, V. Berlandieri =
resistance to diseases, but low quality (foxy).
Later: Import European grape varieties , but later
philloxera
Then: hybrids, ex. Alexander, Isabella, Concord,
Catawba, Muscadine, mostly in the East
First commercial success in the east: Longworth
Sparkling from Catawba grape, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Missionaries in California: Mission (Criolla in ARG, Pais
in Chile)

9. In 1933, after
prohibition, 250 ha of
Cabernet and 40 ha of
Chardonnay remained
in California.
Crisis and 2nd World
War
In 1960, 16,000 ha and
32,000 ha respectively
In 2015, 220,000 ha
with a production of 21
million hl and a
substantial production
of table grapes and
grapes to be dried
Prohibition 1920-1933

10. The « Paris Judgement »
Wine competition organized in Paris on 24 May 1976 by Steven Spurrier, a British
wine merchant, in which French judges carried out two blind tasting comparisons: one
of top-quality Chardonnays and another of red wines (Bordeaux wines from France
and Cabernet Sauvignon wines from California). A Californian wine rated best in each
category (Stag's Leap Wine Cellars + Chateau Montelena)

11. USA – California

12. California - Production
1,100 km California - 245,000 ha
4,600 wine growers 3,400 wine
producers, almost all family
businesses, only a small number
of large producers
- The number of wineries is
growing
- Per capita consumption 9.7 l
- California exports about 4
million hl, about 90% of US
exports!

13. 1 ) North coast:
Napa Valley AVA: dry, hot (drought). The
Carneros AVA is cooler to the south: Pinot
Noir, Chardonnay
Sonoma and Mendocino Counties: Russian
River AVA and Anderson Valley AVA near
the ocean: Riesling and Gewurtztraminer.
2) Central Coast: Santa Cruz Mountains
AVA and Monterey County: fresh, ocean
influence. Zone I
3) Central Valley: 70% of Californian wine!
Zones IV and V, industrial scale wines,
irrigation, high yields, mechanization (but
Lodi AVA receives fresh air from S. Francisc
Bay, Zinfandel old vines).
4) Sierra Nevada: Zinfandel, Italian
varieties.
5) South coast: little remains (Phylloxera)
5 main regions

14. On the coast: influence of the cold
ocean air; fog = slower
maturation, acidity is preserved
better, the aromas are
maintained.
Inside: warmer climate, drought!
Davis University: climate
classification system based on
daily degrees, Winkler scale:
growing"degree days" = California
divided into 5 zones.
Zones I-III (fresh) the best.
California -Climate

15. The cold ocean air penetrates inside where the
mountain barrier does not exceed 600 m.

16. The action of the mist

17. Chardonnay: 20%, various styles from fruity wines, vanilla smell and less acidity
(warm inland areas) to more balanced wines (eg Sonoma County, Carneros).
Sauvignon Blanc: on the cooler coast, maintains better acidity, style similar
to white Bordeaux (wood). Fumé Blanc.
Trends for the Côte du Rhône vines (Syrah), Viognier, Marsanne
Pinot Gris, Riesling
Cheap: Colombard, Chenin
Grape varieties

18. Grape varieties
Zinfandel: from Croatia (Plavac Mali,Primitivo in Puglia). Thin peel, Gobelet training method. It
gives alcoholic wines (even with residual sugar) aromas of red fruits, not elegant, has a tendency
to ripen unevenly sometimes with small amounts of residual sugar. The best from old vines
Zinfandel rosé. White Zinfandel
Cabernet Sauvignon: most common red variety, two styles:
•very fruity, full-bodied, important influence of wood (vanilla, coconut nut), high alcohol content.
•low yields, more balanced, more elegant and complex .French wood (Cult Cabernet)
Merlot: soft tannins, fruity (black fruits, plum), high alcohol, but exceptions in cooler
areas.
Carignan (warm inland areas)
Pinot Noir: Los Carneros (movie Sideways...)

19. Napa Valley

20. Napa Valley: An Ideal Place to Grow Wine Grapes
 Napa Valley is 60 miles
(100 km) north of San
Francisco and stretches
30 miles (50 km) in a
northwesterly direction.
 Approximately 46,000
acres (about 18,620
hectares) are planted to
wine grapes.
 Napa Valley is only 4%
of California’s total
wine production, yet
21% of the total
economic impact of
California wine or $9.5
billion.

21. Napa Valley Climate
Climate (between the
mountains Mayacama and
Vaca), fresh near the bay of San
Francisco to the south for the
morning mists from San Pablo
Bay (zone II); the cooling effects
of the mists decline towards
the north end of the valley
(zone III).
Mayacama Mountains form the
border with Sonoma County
- rain coming from the Pacific is
stopped by the mountains and
the valley remains dry
particularly in the eastern part.
Irrigation required!

22.  The Napa Valley achieved
its AVA status in 1981.
 There are 15 approved sub-
AVAs within Napa Valley.
 To become an AVA, the
area must be
geographically defined by
unique soils, climate, and
geologic conditions.
Napa Valley AVAs
Appellations

23. National AVA
Regional AVA
County AVA
Sub County AVA
Municipal AVA
Vineyard AVA …
Huge differences (min. 24 ha, max 77.000 km2)
AVA (American Viticultural Areas)
230 AVA
USA – Legislation– AVA

24. USA– Legislation
Two different layers of legislation- Federal and national
- Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (BATF) supervises
American Viticultural Areas (AVA) that:
- Unlike European DOP AVA only govern the geographical origin
of the grapes and do not dictate viticultural or winemaking
methods.
Requirement for an «AVA» label:
• Grapes origin: at least 85 percent of the grapes used to make
a wine must be from that region
• Vintage: min. 95% of the same harvest
• Grape variety: min. 75%
• Estate : 100% grapes form a unique owner

25. Cult Cabernet Scene – The Legends
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• Pioneers :Grace Family Vineyards,
launched in 1983, Dalla Valle, in 1986;
Baulieu, Inglenook (Rutherford)
• mid-slope hillsides, neither valley floor
nor mountaintop.
• People who had made their money
sold primarily elsewhere and in
another domain.
• By mailing list, not traditional
distribution.
• Extremely low quantities and released
at audaciously high prices
• Mutual association “There was a
sameness to their style. The richness,
the power, the body, the finesse.”
Wine Spectator.
• Drinkable also just after 3 or 4 yrs
from release

26. Promontory Estate
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First vintage 2009
840 acres of which only 10 percent
plantble. Jagged, steep and rocky.
Three geologic formations : igneous
(volcanic), sedimentary and
metamorphic
Open sale and not only mailing list.
Winery open to visits.
At least 6 months of Austrian casks
after the ageing in French oak barrels
still give a wine rich and driven by fruit,
quieter, bit less opulent of the Harlan
Estate powerhouses
Greater presence of tannin, acidity and
minerality

27. Promontory 2011
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Producer: Promontory
Wine region: Napa Valley (United States)
Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec y Petit Verdot
Bottle: 0.75 L
Alcohol content: 14,5%
Food Pairing: Beef entrecôte / venison stew / aged cheeses
Vineyard: Surface area: 14 hectares
Soil: Volcanic / Stony
Climate: Continental with Mediterranean influence
Ageing period: 12 months
Type of wood: Oak
Tasting:
Colour: Garnet / bright
Bouquet: Subtle / cassis / damp stone / resin / tobacco
Palate: Medium-bodied / ripe tannins / well-integrated
tannins
Recommendations: Optimum serving temperature:
Between 15ºC and 17ºC
Decanting: Aeration is recommended

28. Promontory 2012
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Producer: Promontory
Wine region: Napa Valley (United States)
Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec y Petit Verdot
Bottle: 0.75 L
Alcohol content: 14,5%
Food Pairing: Beef entrecôte / venison stew / aged cheeses
Vineyard: Surface area: 14 hectares
Soil: Volcanic / Stony
Climate: Continental with Mediterranean influence
Ageing period: 12 months
Type of wood: Oak
Tasting:
Colour: Garnet / bright
Bouquet: Subtle / cassis / damp stone / resin / tobacco
Palate: Medium-bodied / ripe tannins / well-integrated
tannins
Recommendations: Optimum serving temperature:
Between 15ºC and 17ºC
Decanting: Aeration is recommended

29. Promontory 2013
Type: Red ageing wine
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Producer: Promontory
Wine region: Napa Valley (United States)
Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec y Petit Verdot
Bottle: 0.75 L
Alcohol content: 14,5%
Food Pairing: Beef entrecôte / venison stew / aged cheeses
Vineyard: Surface area: 14 hectares
Soil: Volcanic / Stony
Climate: Continental with Mediterranean influence
Ageing period: 12 months
Type of wood: Oak
Tasting:
Colour: Garnet / bright
Bouquet: Subtle / cassis / damp stone / resin / tobacco
Palate: Medium-bodied / ripe tannins / well-integrated
tannins
Recommendations: Optimum serving temperature: Between
15ºC and 17ºC
Decanting: Aeration is recommended

30. Promontory 2014
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Producer: Promontory
Wine region: Napa Valley (United States)
Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec y Petit Verdot
Bottle: 0.75 L
Alcohol content: 14,5%
Food Pairing: Beef entrecôte / venison stew / aged cheeses
Vineyard: Surface area: 14 hectares
Soil: Volcanic / Stony
Climate: Continental with Mediterranean influence
Ageing period: 12 months
Type of wood: Oak
Tasting:
Colour: Garnet / bright
Bouquet: Subtle / cassis / damp stone / resin / tobacco
Palate: Medium-bodied / ripe tannins / well-integrated tannins
Recommendations: Optimum serving temperature: Between 15ºC
and 17ºC
Decanting: Aeration is recommended