Simplicity sewing book - 1962

right
idoas
э
=
Ф
Sеч;iпg Воо
fealuring the
Simplicity Unit System of Sewing
. step-by-step coпstruction of 7 garments
. tips оп handling the пеw fabrics
о professioпal finishing tricks
. the ABCs ol tailoring
... апd оп evёry page,
aids for Ьеgiппеr or expert
с,
,,il,|
65сBig gift for sewing lovers download at : http://thetopworld.com/big-gift-sewing-lovers

*_,*::-:-*-*- '--а
tabIв of contents
right ideas
simplicity's шnit system 0t sЕwing о
gOOd сqшiрmsпt о
llattЕr with fabrics о
kпOW уOчr
'igшre
апd раttеrп type о
lпOvi J0[] natt€rn size о
pageý
2-8
filst things first
measurements
" hOW t0 use а pattcrn
"
constmction symb0ls о
checking meaýuaem0nts о раttorп altcrati0пs
сOmЬiпiлg раПе]пs о sешiпg dictionary .
needle, thread and stitch guide .
fahricý о cutting о mа*iпg о
darts о s€аms о
а tl0uýe о
а skirt о
а dreýs о
а child'ý droýs о
а c0at oIiacket о
ýlacks 0r ýh0rts о
а пап's ýports ýhirt о
interfacing о чпdеIliпiпg . linishing trický .
litting. pressin8 о butt0nholes о huttons о
0thеr fasteningý о zippers о placlets .
collals о sleeves . pockets . hems о hеltý о
basic stitchвs о tucks о hindingý о
pipingý
"
pleats о rulfles о dec0rative t0uches о
tIimmiп8s о lacв о embroide]y. hemstitching.
tailolinд .
'ч]
о mеп's and b0ys' clothing о
thB Bxpert makes 7 garments
that сочпtdetails
ýilп 1l itity PlLtt.,lп lо, [ п(.
2ОП ,ll ddisr),l Дr, luc,l't ч,У,,r,1 /о, ý.]:
.ё
Big gift for sewing lovers download at : http://thetopworld.com/big-gift-sewing-lovers

in а basic
llý0lo,
units
blo
чпit 1
dresý bodice)
baýic
(оr dress skirt)
jba!!i
dross
niib l tk.цt ?
ina
rt
цпitý
ski
ппit 1
ilffiшпit
чпit 3
цпit 4
шtlit 5
front, baclr lnd соllаг joined
цnit 6
{nit 7
fTont, Ьпсk, .oltl. lпd зlее!е
simplicity's цпit syýtem of sеwiпg
а "d0 idea
want to make mоге things in lевs time? Yоu will if уол use Simplicity'ý Unit S$t€п tc ý.ч Lr.
it's planned to make the 1voTk gо fast, lаз'rr, lФreýrl
In this ýystem, all wогk is completed aS far as роýýiЫе on one section, оr unit, of the i|rra.a S* aЦ
on to the next unit, дs units аге comp]eted, they аrе added to each otheT until the entrr! Ев r|-rll
L'nit construction not oniy ýpe€ds up th€ worki it slýо minimizeý hяndling of the 8lrй! Ё l_f,
А better lookina, b€tter finished gаrmепt plus sдvingý in time and епеIgу. And - ýр..iдl lffi} - il
9ф ornot set for а long реriй of time, -.hort р€riоds сап Ье utilized to make опе ulil .1' arlEt
drilrd..t d i, SatiФ 3 о' thiý ьook дrе mаd€ accoIding to the Simplicity Unit S)d.- a gr{.
it faster"
,
unitý 1 tirо!ф 3
laýt Unit
bodic. апd skilt joined;
0.it з
lrопl зп.] blci lo'n.n:
цпit 4
waistband (in а seParste зliгt
ulit 5
lтont. back lпd ъistЬ!пd
Unit 2

gOOd equipment а "d0 it
l|'"] t]1;",r,a].i, 11,1L ]iЕаrпзL .Ilclt.:i]lisФ.n xst] tЪr
neS.1.ools, l1 ri]lrt So1,1]!g 1ools ]!|L] |ij.] le3t qua]jtг
1,0х сап lll..d апа if !()u licep then in А t co di|;on,
it'j lxiomalic, too, 1iut tlrc cilthc]J },o|t m!]re ,ýiil Ьс
,,l 1,1 "n]-,,- l,n,
irtli( i{J!t 1tlilgeDe]r1 of tI.:e tФ]s a]so ift.]leaýes
arоог ý.1!inя.jtlicidl]r. 1f loll с!ппо| hxLc а Sewirrg
.l,,,,]]
alrangenrri1 of !OrI gcýi!!: eql]]ro!en'l, d.Ijlarl
tlr(] n!)st convcljiln ]хIоlLl !f r!] r |Ools e.|ctj iirле
rjr ..uJ.,. ilrc ilonina bollrd ljF|i bi. tne seirj.g
.,,, лj l' g l,
up, , , t]:I.ad, jtissoTs, (]t., Wjihin.lt!i hanc] rclch,
yo ']l find thc wol]t goi]lq j'rst.l ltnd !]оlt SmooLh]_Y,
aа sep Ig liachii!, Ilc]j1I;., ir t.siЪl.,,! .,bill.r .jarbil.
ir
Е ýhиrý апС ýсВýOк. То] lTj,l ]1r]:i l]il1]l{,.Lll1il]: Jx]ll|,..
бl
й
(а чпirr!ijs li:|].Jl Гi.liсt. i.,li.]:rrrr]j:lj.l]i] r.lir:xi(
{ý rl"",,,,oi"g"i,,n, i],slrIl !:,,] r: il. iiI: :ir[.,] (ilL],!r:, ]l
a, I.I l |. ].|1 r.r.ir.i,lel1 ]]:..]i] (!LL]i: 9]l.rr: :,Jr r:i]L.]t]r.
s iоп,
-
,.гаi.l boa,d, ' l
r;:. l1.jt !i|[.]г Jr.L]ing.I li]iil(
.ьп, h]rld 1
foetter" idea
]
needl0ý, i(., l,,,, lrrl,]l ;tnll:i.l,i]li-Tl]1 Si;:.i аa nr1,,l,n]ё
1nL] l,iJ]. nce.]li| ,] s'.all o..l !.] xli'i.l.'l..l |rl,d.
Pirl$, ]. lrrs 1i tjOr l]l., s]ri]]I]. "!]]j' ]tiл, ]lS 1t(r
thrcad, l1.r "llir].1.1Illr
lh:lл |[. (i,l( ] ol :]:о д:,.]I ]л| ] l! i.l ,j]ti: l!
thifible. ol. rr"r llLstill ]]t]Ln!(l1ol!i)iit nl r.,lrljlrl!,
tape fteaýure,'i] n,rrIs ]опц l,itn.nali !пi;
ruleБ_ А Lr" x,,i l3" rl,t t !ail]rli., I,]li,, b]I t} jti,.l0trL]i
|l r ]" 11 i]' i!P jth .: s]i.la l-. .slib]jsbixg tIi9 тз lIn]q ]]i]]1
JOss akeis tIaciflq lapar.l',lI n i.,Lil,;] !....1lrIlj.n .rr.n,il
tiacirgwheol,T. L:J. li|| lhI iLcis!al,!lS il:lLirI r.po.. Ti.
n1.1]11. !oinl,!lL.ll ь L.n l.r Tor ] !i]l] ро "1 l 1: 01 (. |]i.l]]li,ii.
ta!l0ls ct]alk, 3"t| !rhite апа .о].рd ;'.l .]:.r ilr]q ]l!]], :,lld ,i.ll l i]br i_.
р}еýзiпg c]Othý, {ll ,t L.,],l, L
"1 !ь li .l, ] l]]1r,
оl l ]:iIg]] lhLcr oI L.:,1r .ir]]l(i l ) rJ, .!.r ! s)ji,t],,l'|!r]l
Tri]],as.rSI]ol. bri]. l,,!.. ] ]1L,
S|iil ll, ] |.l ]]".ý-],:j n],)]. ]l ["L, l"l,-:l::: r:riд.,
Г li : ! :] ! | : i,l l ]ii l. :1lJii .l 1i..nlil.illl1
!Il!] ]',l]l. n]l ilt]l,,, t,]lilllL]: ]]:i..!r,
i]п|lJ Ь1| i]г,Il,!.,::l1 rl],]l.,|.
j ilJ lni lojnt гl.ij.r.

BROAOctOTHs
li ] ]] ;, ]] _! 1]ij].i ýlr]. nh ! c.lj!il. л!t rh|r, rnus|
,]]L ,i:l:', lll|i. [l]ln.l;|tn]g, tScl рlА. i]0,]
ll,] it ll0*,l!'.ll!]uS bin].. L slrl jt r!itr 1D:rs. Il l,.
( ],.l ,
'
l]lllL]lr] ji].ar]el li] L L! rrllr rl. uslii r,0...!l
l t] l,!Lt]l] n,,sl]iIi:, LlФn]s lпl] LIilon.] l]I.sl.]s,
].L]iri.эl]I. rn!l),of.bc l:lLlLcý ]Ыаd i| 0tl]tг
l,.a}]r i.. !]]in ý..!4S. su.I] !;0rдJIjd! rr li
,оjlс sn.ýr ]n th. я:.п]] 0l jn{.r|,laL.ns
i,] ]i: | |tr;) l.|r! llo l]l, .Iinll., Lril],
(1.. Lu1 hаr.:. rl,n.ii sl]r'na.:]!l] !..
ll. ti:r! lo ]iibil,orllri,
(,/irli;] Iol]LeIl]- 0niy i' :..1]]..о! rl! in
rl n1l]eti.i эпП llolr]s, 1 los. 1]Ij. !!lir grl. r
!.r, SOlt hand. Nl.]' l]P гlэiп |r DIiпl!],
a:l(йlt(l: _{ colttt Trrl di,,{г лN.г i;i..l ;]1.1
lilht.г Iillinц уагпч.ь:tr ]] lc 1r[. r.r, tlrT.
,sl]i/ll1,1l: Л l:lп, .l]Бli]
uriglrlS ]l!hl елоu!h
1r.fl.i,: , tIп] stl]isn }la],L Jl st]L о. rfr-].1 .r il t ls
]l.rl.tr]Ы..!frt,i*,]il], B.rt liir,1l llr nIlrr,. rl]1l l ,!
slil)]}lil: Л glippllr rtrllil]ai ll]]lrr
ol,rnlh.lic }lгпs..lЬо l]L l] ЬlзL.d lj.rL.
сOпOS and пlвs
r
I
сfitрts
Hijb tBi'l(n s]l
r.l] гrлg. lrоп] sllcr 1о l]1
l1lll a',1|!,] А 5o]L
"пII!..(i lxLl Lc ,l ]Lцl l rJ,i
п.liПш l.iцbls, pOp!l:lI lll (iI1.1cs !пtt:ujts
sarirlti. a'r.lt, 1'I].ll !rl J!a.' l.рlё r.1,Ill|Иti.]Ls
in IlIc S!nLb.uc ]inrrý rrl]!nl]] l|,n r].. r..!i ]lie suTllces
ф |.]vii1 l.Lb]Ld 0пt!, a]o,,.]xi:r l0 (ireSБcs ai(tLl!us.s,
//,,lNu(l],rr: А .o:Llsc, ]о,Бо Ьлчl(.. трiт!
. 1I l]nr.l.:]lk, srnt]].|j(s or 1r00l.
iij]j*jg,",] r,, tllt rn,1 rl1] jr(k{!,
cOARsE апd Л(]UGн WEAvts
] r 1 ,i: I]x! Lc тоlrп .f чолi ( r .ottDn
]],]n Pe..ral .o.!aiiS s]!ns ol
!Jlr.!sr!n! .old' 1:Scn l(tr ]|ci,rs. l]lts,
rujtl rn1l ii lllh}n,.iяbls lil.sl.s,
]/,],]1!,?] ] ]1r1]. i I l1rirk. 5x)]l1 1!l1s
х ?l in iilh.I D]ail ! ll1|ill1.,,.,
ii,l,i njr ч]|rLs |r ]l ll].s{'s
sATl!! !!EAvIS
,J
".
silk lйеп
LlNE s апd
тнЕ LlNlN LOOK
]l]ain ! Plri] lп ici.,t.l
1] l!.clii 11i:]i]li ]] , r l

паUЕ
д true !iачб is wov€n witb ]enalhwise or cюsswise
Tibs, But theтe атё mапу fаЪтiсs сопmопlу Tefc...d
to as piquб ý,h]ch aciually Аrе лоt, аS tbe rrised
cll.ct i9iгeared lot Ьу vедтiпg but Ъу presвing ппd
саппо1, Ье i.nýidered Pelmanent, Piquбs аr. usеd
moslly for dгеsБеs, Sчmmег jsclets and созts lnd lог
rгiпmiпgs Such ls collars апd culfs,
lacy *пil
кN!Is
Best knovn are thе dille.ent types
ot jPTse} i пtца9t ате the dоuЫе
kn,tc a.tUglb two lауеrБ knitted
togeth.r so right and wrопg sideз
а.е alnost identical. knitted
llЬ.ts ате соmfо.tаЫе, ргасtiса!
зпd зmагt fo. drcsses, jacket
sHEEпs
.r;lч,, А tT,nSlrJ,e, t nLain.e*".,t ý,l].
ol sJ пtЬцlrý olten pTiпt.d
o)r.lduj ]п Lottnn it hJs s sOmelvbэt Бtilт
wirу focl, In ri k it rз called "JrgsnzA",
l,il., Usually of cott.n bxt J]Sс ot silt,
ý}ntbctr о. sпо lrLcrS, An o]ren p]9in lcnvc
0Ln. twiýlEl уJ.пз, pl inted i,r pllin,
'inir!]
А рlдПl cotton veave btt with Sрасёd
Ь.л!i.r iengthтige thread9 tЬдt give о co.dod.lfoct.
dimiiy
liпе Yiale piqud hildЗ еуо рiqчё
,iаfilе рПUЁ
iчl like
stuBs
YaTnS ý,ilЪ thickcned Segn]ents
ртiпФd shrntlng..
аrе uscd to яiчс а
snzzilzp: .{ рlдiп s,.дпс of si]k, syntb.tics or
cotton, Nell liked foт SчпmеI suits and d.eýýeý,
/'o2g.].j Usullly ol Silk, апd 8ofte. and iigЪtar
n,eight iЬап sЪапttпg, Uscd iл sппmет d.esses,
TWlLLs
Д basic veave that disDla!з а delinite diggonrt line,
Dza;nr А cotton labтic чsчя]lу mаd. {,ith
colored rуагр },аrлs and }'hite от lighteт 0о]от Пlliпg удrп9,
Л/о,}.l: ajопсгаllу {,ith а чеIу stight]y парреd Balf5cc,
Пool, 9lntheticý or b]ends дте used,
aizьаrdr}.j тhе lwill is lin. дпd close, ln vоrstеd.
cotton or Syntneti. уягпý,
szгаrj _{ soft, dTapablc {,сл!с ot cottonj silk оr Synthct]cs
tbat is usually ргiпtеd,
yr'oar;.nl of cotton with арреаrапсе
to velvet lhо!Еh ýoven difierent]y,
cofdlro!l Fо.mеIl' д]wауs of cotton ъut nol,
пду llso Ье о| rауоп от пуlоп. Iп colduroy
ihе pile iý cut i! lеп8tЪwisе Iibз оr "vates",
Тh. s,alcs Dау Ье line, m€diub or {,ido.
Fxl Lihe llаьгirs: о1 Syntlletic уагпS iп
plain colors от ргiпlсd Lo IcscaЫe lninal pe]tý,
Th.y mako iiяht but wатm $,iпtеr coais,
idea
цеttе
cilNKLES
s../я!.rzr: i'.чеп ,ith сгiпklсd ]ёпgthý,iýе striles-
ТЬе cгinkle is produced Ьу Yаrуiпg the tcnsion
ol the маrг у;гп! ]п thP ýeJi,Lt,
л1^-, тл. с !lл.! il , ,аd Ь Sb, inPi' ь ý, , |о' ,
о1 tbe flbric with а cb.nical solutlon lпli is lot as
lPrmanent }s lhc сгiпklс 0I sо.тsчсkеr,
j U- J пU'' !',., ,1 llnP", F,
l',t,i" с:,,, -LL,. , s,rJ" л""j__l,,, .1',', 1
..1е ",".-t,u'
, ,, ,l n'l" U,l,:, P,l
,
"
.."-ь,",,,,, oI soe. sl,,elve аlо ,1еа,cj I
i;* n.nt. P. tical iъr sumnlor dтesýes as it пееdS
little о. .о рrсssiпg дltеI launde.ing,
flatter with fahrics
а "do it smarter"
The Iighl Г Ьгi. сап "m llc" IhF яа|трпi,
Дпd it's more fun to work with а fabric you
know is ri8ht . , , Tight fol, the gaтment
sl) iп. гigh' Гоr чоur flgJг. and рргiопа]it]'.
So it'S wofthwhile to ýpend а little time in
stores' fаЬгiс depaтtments, getting
ncquainted with the man},typeS and decidillg
hоw th€sе fаЬгiсý will treat Uor.
Оп these two pageý Some of the most popular
fablic gloups jntтoducc themse],es, of
соuтs€. not oll valieties of rl,eaves апd
$,eights arc h€те - just enough to give ап
idea of what's uýed jn today'ý fashions.
5
chiflOn
r.riari'бf '!t]k,'nyon, acetate, nylon
ptbsB

kпоw уочr figure & pattern ýре
а '*d0 idea
Do уоч know what ffgurе type you ате and what simplicity pattern type iý mqф fo" уоuг ffgчrе?
If уоч do, and iJ you uýe the patteTns made foт that figure type, you'lt ffnd dreesmaking eaýiel beeauýe
tneTe will Ье teýý ffttinдi to do.
MoSt fi8uTeý fatlintoone of the 8 ffguTe typeý itlustTated, and,Simplicity makeý patteTný toffteach oJ them.
Read the descгiptioný of the 8 typeý snd sее which one sеепs to Ье rпозt like уош оwп.
Cortio ,1 The names of theýe 8 ffgurc trueý аrе not deвcriptiveo{ оg€. The typ€s аrе basedon height, body
pIoportions anal the contouTs of tbe ffguтe. Thuý, someteen-agerý, foт e*mple, willffnd thata Ealf-Size
pattern fftý them best; and thеIе аrc adults whose mеаsчгеmепts and ffgчте рrороftiопi ате beýt fftted
Ьу а SчЬ-ТЬеп type patteгn.
descriptions 0l the 8 figu.o trpes
е
;
chUbhi.
In sire l,tъс. яьоцt 5'tall with bek
СЬпЬЪi. patteт.. .re dбigned
'ог
а
ffgule tbe Baneheightas tЬ€ Gi.],
bnt rоч.dёi, Ве.аus€ of thiý body
Tolndncss, the back v,ict]ength is
lопgеr l,hдп the Girl's,ewen thоаgЬ
the oYerall heigЪt is tЪе з9пе.
girl
Tn size 1,!. дьочt 5'tа'lФithъасk
Girl patteтný дrе dеsigпеd fo. th.
smalleýt of tЪe 8type9. Тhiз lignTe
cives ап inpression of iпhаtцre
Яаtпевs, and in itý smdiег siz.. it
п.€ds no чпd.rаrп da.t бttiBg i.
itý раttегпs, ЬfсtrSiл.й' щ
D.dеrагп dлrв о.се.
it BasiBr"
fiiýý-w0mап
In liz€ 14.5bout 5'6" tall Nithъасk
Miss,woDa! pstte.m are designed
fоr а Пguте thatis tsllerthвn апу
oi th€ other ngurc type8 and well-
рrоро.tiопёd througbo!t. This fi gчте
givos tЪе inlтessioп оfЬёiпg fully
deve]oDed in all body 9re$Bn.t
night Ъ€ consjdered tЪе "svёIзЕе"
iшпiOr
Il Size 1з, аьоцt б'5" toll with Ьдсlr
'u,ior
patter.ý ore dеSigпеа lоI !
liguTe slight]y ýЪоrtеrthап thе MiýB-
woman, Ъчt yell-deve]op€d. Тh€ ffrй
buýt iý highёI, and Ъесаше.f this
the wдistlinc ]ооks поr€ defined,
This type gives tbe im!теЁ8iоп of
being ап 9ч€rаае бgnrc with
ta|f€iuC
In зi* 1aЪ.rЬочtбЗ"Ьll*itЬ
ь..t *.i,t ЬпЁЬ r5*'_
tf.ll-ýiE ,.ца е l.. .
,.Д+ira.a.kr laiъ !aЬ
Е.Ё.ЬtL
tcen
Iп size 14, about 5'9" фll witb bвck
Teen рдtt.rпý аr€ deзigned for а
ffяllе the s!ьеЪ.ight.s th€ llalf-
sйё but опе not п€sгlу as dеi,еlорёd.
It hos а iftап }utdебпiф ъп5t,
рlдссd higb,ana giчёз ihe
impтession of уоutifu l со n tоцтз.
ýUb-t.en
Iп size 1!ý, дьочt 5'1 14" tsll with
Ьас]. wsist length 14%".
Sub_Teen раtЬrпS sre dФigned fог
а fiяurc ýЪоrЬr thln thе Teen, witi
leвý .оtiсёдЬ]е buýt а.d а wвistlin€
lofeli in рrороrtiо. to tЬеЬцýt,
В..6uýе th€ wsiýtlin€ i3]зrgеl iп
pтoportion. thiE liglra mау look
iап.wъlt зьогt-wаisфd,
iшnio. pctite
tп si,e 11jp, about 5'1"Ыl with
back wдiзt l€.ctb 15".
JчпiФP.tit p.|t ra. !Е
'ot.,bo!L й.фU nrBE. по ni.t
бll., i. ,,tl.rta_ i. t- цa
ria.lb.akrrr_t aa
_--..tI'f,E
rts_Bj+L]a
r+i--.t--
arý
),с
| -l

)
(
}
€
dr

When you have decided what ffguге type you аIе, and then use pattefns made foт that figuге type, уоч
will find dleýsmaking eaýieT because thеге will ье lеýs fitting to do.
Shown on thiý page аге ýоmе of the difielences between чагiочS раttеIп types. Bodiee fтont patternв, all
in size 14 or the ýize equivalent to the 14 (sчсh as JunioT size 1з), аге compared with each otheT,
figu]e
miýs ýize 14.juniot size 13.
Тhете iý а 1" ditrerence
in height between these
two ffgurеS, and this iý
feflectэd in tl,e ditreтence
futhe |foпt 1,Ooist lеп!]th.
Note also the ýliaht
ditrerencesin:
shouldeT len8th
frопt width.
miss sire 14. hilf.ýircl472.
The Hatf-Size ls а ShorteI
figuтe than the Miýý and
has а 1" lalgeI buвt.
This s},оws in these
fTontlength
fmnt width
lепяth oJ waiýtline dart
And note ditreIence in
shou]der leneth and Slol)e.
tееп size 14.sчh{Oсп siz0l4s.
А height ditrегепсе of
11/2" between these two
figчIеS ýhows in the
|ront leng th. other
differeneeý арреаI in:
shoulder length
widthof чпdеIаIm dart
iепgth of waistline daTt .
t
I
l
7.|,
L
& раttеrп
types
gir' ýize 14.ýчh-toеп siie 14s.
Becauseof the GiTl's
lesseT buýt
outstanding
ditrercnceý in thеsе
frontwidth
andlength
daTt in Giгl'sраttегп,
as this ffgurc haý
little need foT
daft-fittinя in this arca.
lirlsize 14. chnhhie sire 14Ис.
Though these two ligптеý
аге the ýаmе oveЕtl
hei8ht, the гочпdпеss
of the cbubbie figчIе
diffеrепсеs between:
{гontlength
Iтont width
neckline and аlпйоlе size,
iuniorpctitesiz.11 ip.
juпiorsiier3.
Тhочgh both ffgules have
the ý,old "Junior" in
thеiг nameq the ff8чгеs
аге dissimilar. (Read
descгiptions on the
oppoýite page.) The
Jlontlength
shouldeг slant and width
waistline dart width.
/
г.
/
]}j
r=:
hi
'

t:
-l
]
{
ш

kпоw уочr pattern slze
ideaа "d0 it Ghварвr"
Аý some hsve found to thёil Eolrow, it's ап
ёхрёпsiче €хрёrimепt to tIу to uýe а patterп
lhаtъ поr thе besi size rоr you. опсе thё faыi.
is cut, you've сIоsýеd the serпing Rubicon. If the
gaтment рIочеs too ýmall, you've waýted the
{abric mопеу; if too lalge, you've spent va]uable
time and епегgу on а job that must Ье done ovel.
Il'S а Бimрlр mаllег iU dccide what pattem ýize
Pattems sbould ье purchased Ьу Body MeaýuTe-
ments not Ьу read!-lo-шcar .ize оr Ьу аgе.
Ъkе упUг 1 Body Measurcmcnts w}ile wеагiпс
а Simple. wel1-6tling dresý With ýet jn ýleev.s.
and а pToper foundation gaIment.
еаýе allowance
All patt€ms contain ýоmе "еаýе allowance" in
addition to the exact measurcments of уочr body
ýо уоч сап move comloltably in the finished
gагmепt. This еаýе vaTies with the ýtyle of the
gаrm"пl. Тл а Simple, basic fitted drFýý йth
ýet_in ýleeveý, the ease iý аs followв:
lust баsа - In GirI and Junior Petite patteтný,
aboul 3"; iл Suь-ъ€п and ъеп, about 3Уа";
in Miýý-woman, Juпiог апd СhuЬЬiё pattems,
about з%"i in Hatf-Size, about 4%".
шaist ease - дЬоut %" iп a]t types.
hip 0ase - About 2" in all typeý.
Ьасk waist lопgth eas. - About Уа" iп all typeв.
maternity pattelп sizes
Buy the ýаmе ýiz€ in а matemity pattern аý
уоu поImаllу buy. Тhе needed extra ýрасе
has alгeady been deýigned into the pattem.
hUst
шaist
back
neck base
to hеm
16,
bleaýt
hreaýt
back
neck base
to hеm
19,
е
,i 21,
2ч,
blst over the fulleвt part, ýnugly but not tight,
waist _ АIоuпd the паturаt waistliпe, соmfогtаЬlу.
hip At 7" below the waist.
Ьасk yJaiýt length - Frоm the pтomiп€nt bone at
the hасk base of the ne;k to the waistline.
То deterпine }-оur beýt siz€. .heck these
mез_{чrеmепt_ý {,ith thоs€ iп th€ lea"urement
chrri oD lhе oppoiite paae.ll rou. m€а_r,.lrеmепLý
(t r- '-,ь ЁЁ
'r.rr!.r.a
!!q.,
'аФ;ftф.с:t
Qr.*J * ri.<lr, ti * !ч€ .i*Э r+
aiF**
tOddlers' vs, childreп's patteIns
ToddieT patterns аIе designed fог а liguTe between
thal оt а ЬаЬу and а ch:ld. Thc Тоddlег ficure i,
talteT than а ЬаЬу but Shогtег than а Child.
Simplicity TbddleT pattelns have thе ýаmе Ьгеаst
and waist mёаSuтеmепts aS children's р&ttегпS
iп the Sаmе sizei but тоddlег раttегпý ате аЬочt
3"shortel in the sаmё size. тhе bodice iý about 1"
ShoTteI and the ýhotrldeгý about rэ', паrrоýе.
than iп chiidгen'S patterný,
Неrе ls а Соmрзrisоп of Dress kп8lhз
frоm tsасk фk Ва_ý€ ro иq,еr Еdяе
ф, l tirr 2 drt з sira 4
* l5- 16- |7" 18"
,
toddl.t ýitc 2 child ýit. 2
at lr |q, 2|"

mеаsчrеmепt сhаЁ fоr simplicity раttеrпs
Select youT corтeet pдttem size Ьу the Body Measurements оп thiý сhаrt. Buy Ыочве, dTeýs, suit,
jacket and coat patteтný Ьу bust mеаýчтеmепt. Buy sИ}t, ýhoтts and slacks patteтný Ьу wsiýt mеаsчrе,
lr?rraýý youT hips arc largeт thал the hip meaвulement соrтеsропdiпg to уочr waiýt measuтement
as given оD the chaTt, In such саsе, buy Ьу hip mеаsulеmепt.
girlý
2zb 2s 2 25 zб iab,
27 23 з0 391! }5 l!!.
1s9ld 12?r 13% l{% 15],16 i!s,
sbould€r lёпеа.,, , ,,,, ,, }Ъ а 4-v. аЪ а& in&
1rrG rI% 12х 1r% l3ф im,
totlnб 11 rrъ 21/1 |zъ iDз.
r0lr,lojt 11Ч 1r% 12% im.
12( 19Ъ l3 r3Ъ 1,! iл&
iuпior pctitcs
ajp бjD ljD 9j! 11j! 13jp
31 ýlъ 12 3r]4 33 ззъ iпз-
сhцЬЬiеý
3ъс 10]6с 12*с t,!цс
В0 i114 аз з,!14 im,
93 з,tи 36 3?16 in,
14 1!!a 111P 14qa 16 16& ins. Вsсk wsЪt bnвth,,..,.,., 13Ъ 19а
зhodder le8th__-, , aia {ъ
Back wldtb,,,,,,,,,.,,,.,,.,,., 12 ъ l2{
Fгопt widй,.,,,,,,.,,., ,,,,,. l r,( 12*
ýleeve lenaй.,.-,.,-_-. 21ъ 211'
ýlФYеяidtь,,,,-_..--- 11'п 11%
Nё.k,,,,,,.,,,.,,,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,. 121 13*
;Е
teens
Е sй,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,, , r0 u
,Е вБt, ,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, , ,,30 u,
ЕЕ wn*
'Е яь,,,..,..,..,,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,..,,..,.зz и
Е эsсk v.ill le,Etb,.,,,,,,. 1а{ tб
F.опtwяftt lецiЬ,,,.,,,,lr116 16t11o
л1lo {]:чб
i BKl( width, ,,,,,,,,,, ,, ,, ,lal 1зY
:Ё г-"t-ratb
9! sь*" b*rb,,,,,,,,,,,,,, zz *ъ
ЁЕ sьк яidй,,,,, ,,,, l1{ Ir,4
Ё NKk,-,,,.,.-.,...,..,,..,,.,,,,,,.,.13{ 13l(
half-sires
|2lь 1l1ъ 161ь 1вь 20ь 22ъ 2|ц
Btck wsl.t ъ!gth.,,.,,.,, 16у{ 1!ъ ]q]]4 1э !!!
гюпt Tajst ]епstй__. 16q( 17q{0 1?% 13rid 13ъ
11ъ |.* 114 1|s 5
вдсkйdй-_-_-,_ 13% 14У! 149{ lбl! rr9{
i.on width,,,,.,,-,,,,,,,.,,, r3% 13* 1116 1,!1{ 1616
ýьчёl€паБ.,,.-,,,.,,..,,.., 22у{ 22уа 21 2с% zзъ
вIфчё widtъ.,,.,.,,.,..,..,.,. 139( 14и 1.1!l 1114 169{
1r* 11s4 16{ 16{ 16t
Fniors
цц !6у,
пissos atd uоmеп
э: Bust,.,,,,,,.,,..,,.,,,.,,..,,.,,..,,3ot/! 11* 33 35
яi ýrrъt,_,,.,,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,.,-,231ь 24' 26|2 21
Ё Hie,,,,,,,,,.,,,.,,..,... ..,,.,,.,,,, з,'l. ззи х5 з7
Е ы*,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,, ,, 0 rL
зr зб 3314 .1 in.,
L?д ll1r 11]* r?]{. ib
131Чс 1016 lofu 19ra 20tб ins.
6?10 бъ Бч0 6q! 61riс lD..
16 r0* 1? 17]4 13 in..
15']' 1r% 169( 16% 1?ъ i,
24ъ 2|ць 2|ч{ 2а4!А26* i*,
1,1rl 16]4 16Ъ 1614 1?1,a j!.,
l B".k *"t"i ъ""ф=-_ 1б 151.1 ъ' ца
Fюпt mfut lenr.!,_, 16я
sbodlder lёщtь,,,,,.,,,,.,. .1ио
Beck Tidtb_:..-..-'._ 1з%
sreeve lещiЬ.,,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,- 1214
ýtе*ё,iпrь.,,.,.,,,,.,-,,,,,. 1214
васt!qц! l€цФ!-!-_!!а
Ьоуý
wn!r.,,,,.,.,,.,-.,.,,.,..,,.,,,., 23
N€сk ъаrc зiпh.,,,,,.,,,-,, r9и
ýhjt3]еечё lensй..,..,.. 3}
псп

hоw to чве а pattern
То get фе moвt out ot уочr раtфm, you ýhould do
mоrе фап simрlу lsy the pieceв on fabTlc дnd cut
them оцt тhеfе is чдlч9ьl€ informstion оп the
envelope, еасЬ patteln pieee алd iD special DеrЬ of
tne Ртimеr (iдýtтuction shееN) thst will help you.
Fi'ýt Look at tha Er.aelope Back. It тЫIs Yоч:
t{ýsEy oХtРlЕСЕ 0ПЕýs! Dr.ýs ferhres low pl€ssвd ol чп,
pra$ed invalted plesls, left ýlde lipp€l cloýing and sell 0r
purchlsod b.lt. v. l sпd 2 hrvc slightly |owerod r€cklineý,
8athefý аlваЫliпо of ьodice,nd back песk lippel v.1 haý
зhоrt sе!-iл s1.6чеs, and iop.stitching detail. v, 2 зпd З alб
led песkliп€. v. 2 ýaýh is pulchas.d.
.пd ы.id.. Llп.в,
!3h.пtчI., lulat, cr.p.,.]lt llп.п, lllk
ч.r.п. woolt .пlt bl.id.l зh.., ФоЬi Фl cl.n.l сh.lllз.
тнЕ FАвRlс TYPES sUlTABtE FOR тнЕ sTYtE
matk thc vieU уоч alc uýiпg.
nark уOчr sizc.
mаrk the r.ldth ol tt. fаtгiс уOц iltend t0 Ьцr.
draw а liпе .сrоsý ftоm й. labric $dth ind iOшп fi.п уOчг ýiza.
wiеra the t90 liп.s пЕеt, уOч'll find iie апошпt о'
'аЬriс
nrCdCd.
^0vlcE
0]a sрЕсlдt FАвпсs
t0 saYe lime, hч,lЬaп rnan
'0ц
Ьц' уOч. pattнr ara fairic.
поt all tyleý 0f
'аЬriс
uill mаt. чр trcll iп .very style.
tt..пvC|op€ liststh. most sUitablC onCs.
llow MUGH tлOпlс т0 BUY
тнЕ sEwltlG il()Tll)Ns Y()U 1,1EE0
Misses' one"Piece Drоgs.
qUП!d
зУ. Yds,
3yl "
эцп
2rl ,'
viat 2 Dlaaз
з5" ol з6" wilhoul 3yl "
ЗУq l
2ц"
з% ''
ЗУl "
з1^ "
2у1 "
шidth 0l lou.r idm 0f ф. 86 8з 90 92 94 lns.
vl.r I, 2, з optiomD- У. yard 0' З2", З5'оr З6" wоv€п
Dr.lt vl.{ l. I .пd з| тhо.d, ыr. 3.rm hlidlig (opi,), b.lt (opt,),
i]'lo..d ghould.r p.d. (opt,), 5" п.сt typo nop.l, 14" dl..3 tyro
'lpp.l,
5, ..cl ty!. llpp.r. v1.1 2 .nd з| 16' п.сk tyr. zlpDer,
Extlа fabri
l1tDl..t
бб,'ФilhоUt пrD 3lt зщ
2$ll ot 45ll

9 lо IJSE л PлllBEN
yhere to malah dot at slёеfе top
tNexl Chech
In addition to
are explained
pтinted оп the
the pattern pieceB
conýtтLtction symbolý, all of which
оп page 12, certain inýtructions ате
pattem piecФ to belp you ss you
уhеrе to cli! fabric
dUriпg сOпýtlцсtiOп
З""'11,&1"5_:"9.
-.-б*
|g,Б,ii|iн*r
hOY, t0 mаkб а dalt
ý
l
,lil.i
{Ii
ili
]lj
whele to ease
width 0l sеап аlloYапсе
Апа: Check Yоu,r Рфшаr
YouI Ртimег, of соuтsе, giveý detailed instructioný
Jor making уочI garment; but it also ýhowý:
5elect the
the width
(see page
mirk the
HI)w т0 IAY тнЕ рАттЕfft{ 0t{ тнЕ яАвлlс t()fl cuпltlG
Iight culting diagraп for yOUl .hоsеп ýtyl., уO!г sizc,
of yonr fabric, апd for faмic with 0r withoцt пар.
З0
'ot
details оп hалdliпg па!реd lаЬriсз.)
diagram foa identifi catioп. :iфэ?рJlmаJ
ll0vJ т8 рRЕрАпt I0l cUTTltl8 i
]
rl
€.a/,aeprime?
(,н, Ф
Efi,L!чli
l
J|,x,].jRil
i=1]+]
lLJHitrBl ш
!,r-
i-.lb
,!]]k
5i*?P.i.nar
з.,L_]l-.-,
нOw т0 мАRк

pattern сOпstrчсtiоп symbols
Shown hеrе are the moýt_us€d Symbols апd
instгuctions found оп Simplicity pattem
pieces foI guidnlg уоur cutting and Serving.
Sometimeý other patteTn pieces mау have
additional, less_uSed ýymbolý.
dot f0I adjц9lifig ýlзече ease
А
lооlФ lloм
toN].of.ý!eeve malk l
i
;,1t
j
;flaillt gIa]i.!f.lablic ]ifi е
dOts tor adjUsiing ýls9че ease
ccllal dOt t0 mltch l
tз ýhзх!dзr aеаfi
afti,wý,hOw tuiling
atlп ýiitching directiOn
cutling l;пе iýýlid ouiýide line)
-..+
nOtches nufih!Ied
in ýеq|елее 0f
паiсhiпg
"ll
sеаm line
{hr0'(Еп inýide liпе)
.r,
1..aiterali9n iiie5
+ i
1
iх tll1e5 iO]i]
!,lbide fiilфп
п",сkliпя dart
вlо{БЕ aАск
l
ýi
-

check уочr pattern mеаsчrеmвпts
Whел you haP boughl уоuг раllfгп :n lhe
ýize neaтest youт body mеаsurеmепts, it iS
advisahle to check ceItain о{ its measulemeпts
withyourown to see if the pattem mау
need Боmе зlight altelation befole you cut.
You have аlгеаdу measured},ouт bust, waist,
hips and back waist tength; wгitе theýe
measulements оп the chaTt below, and flom
the back of youl patteln envelope 0rfгоm the
meaýulemeпt table on раgе 9, fitl in the
coпeSponding pattem mеаýuгеmепts.
In addition, you Shouldtake the following
То take the sаmе mёаsuгеmепts on уоuг
patteгn, fiTst lay-in any darts, plёats ог
gatheN очеI which you will Ье measuling,
Then meaýuTe flom seam tine to зeamtine
(except оп the loпgsleeveas ýhоwп in the
diaglam). Measuтe the lro2' shouldel. Put
thёsе measulements оп the chaTt. Now you
can quicklysee whеthегуоu need to make апу
basic alteIations in уоuI pattern. I{ you do,
follow the Фattern alteгation foT уоuг
paTticular adjustment, found оп the pages
sleeve lепgth,
ýhOUlder tб е|hOw
shoц!der Iепgth (песktо аImhOlе)
sleeve leпgth,
t0 wlirt
селtеr frOnt skilt jengtfi
and the center hасk skitt length
Wlite these on the chaтt. Then, if you know
you have celtain figule ртоыеms, take the
mеаSurеm€пts оfth€ ргоЬlеm аrеа. Space haý
ьееп ieJt at the bottom of the сhаIt{оr
wгitinE in any of these,
уош Dersonal neasureDent chart
9I..,.. зъоu]пеr to eIbov
- uýn h рвsчгртапlв ог parrAl п
"л"lор. or on, haIt рае" 9.

pattern adjustments
соmmеrсiаl patteTns аге matle accofding to celtain StaпdaTds of Ьоdу measurements set up Ьу the
меяsптеmепt Standard committee оJ the entiIe pattern industly. But thеIе ате allvayý sоmе ffguIes that do
not сопfоrm to these mеаsuтёm€пts in everт detail. It will save trу-оп and fitting time if any hесеssаIу
adjustmentsallemadeinthepatteTnbefoleitiSplacedonthefabIicforcutting.дndsomeadjustmentý'
such as enlalging от tengthening, cannot Ье made afteI the fablic iý cut. If you have compaIed youl
measufements пith the patteтn measuTements aS explained оп раgе13,уоu know whetheT your pattern пееds
adjustment. If it does, {oltow the diтectioný eiiven on thiв апd ýucc€eding pages fol the adjustments you пееd.
сдUтIоN: In alteTing а patteтn, ье surе all gIainlines ате eithel kept ýtlaight оI аrc stтaightened а{tеI a.lteTing.
lепgthепiпg & shortening
TheseaгethetwomostgeneIa]lyneededadjustmentýandtheeasiesttomake.onmostSimplicitypatteTns
]rouwillfindplintedlengthening.ýhorteninglinesshowingvheтetomakethealterationibutfr{bkiItsand
veTy Sholt sleeves wilt поt hаче thеsе апd the atteвtio_n фоrlld !j !цаdе,lЦ!е_!9!19Т.
t
,з
{
t,
lепgthепiпg: general instructiOns
cut patteln араrt on lengthening iine.
Ptace papel undeI the two pieceв.
Spread Dattcтn to wanted length.
Keeping glainlines Stlaight, pin ог
Scotch-tape to the рарег.
comptete оц the рарег the cutting
line and апу dalt lines.
specia| inýttuctioIs
aоrg saе€?аý. The patteтn will have
tO lcngthon bodice hacfi only
When adjustment iý needed оfllу iп back,
pтoceed aS fottows :
two altelation lines - one above and one
below the etbow. The meaýuтements of уоuI
,Tm. as tisted оп the chaтt on Dаgе 13, will
ýbow уоч whetheт the lengthening is
пееdеd above от beiow the elbow, от both.
srосйý олd sno/rý. то lengthen сгоtсh,
счt lrдllеrп аЬо!t c.oich, То |рпglhрп lpg оt
sholts, add at loweт edge; oJ ýIach,
lепяthеп оп leg alteration line.
l Cut раttеrп оп alieIation liп€ ftоm
_tдsidp sрап liпе опl!,
2 Р lас;йЁът-uпаът neatb. Sрrеаd patteTn
amount пееdеd at сепtеr and fasten to рарег.
3 Draw пеv eirain-peTfect centeT line
14 to D in diagram),
4 Drai( ne$,.utting line at side ý€аm
с to d in diаgrаm
!f:}"!B аR *ais1llne dart.-, :trаisьtеп tbem,
J. ,] , r;, :ir .i.fr iraБ| :iol п..11r
лrlr.r r; .k '5 i:. ь::, : ' . ..lа.8:i8
a6 * ЦЁ .* ,*gt :з
-г


siOrteпiпgl gепеIаl inýtгцctiOIý
Measuтe up fгоm the shortening tine the
amount to Ье Sholtenёd. Dгаw а line
асIоsý patteгn. (Diagiram о.)
Eo]d раltеrп оп sЪогtрп;пg ljnp | Ьгiпg fold up
to th€ drаwп line and fasten. (Diagмm 6.)
DIаw пеw cuttin8 line as Shown Ьу dotted
iineý in Diagram Ь.
s!ecialiпstructiOпs
'ong
slerreý should Ье ýhoTtened аЬоче оr
betow the elbow, or hoth, as needed.
sl.rcký a,d Sliolrs аге shоItёпеd аъоче
crotch от at bottom of shоIts leg от
оп altemtion tiпё of slacký.
I
l
I
l
l
I
]
]
l
I
t0 shorten bodice back 0Il,
At centel, mеаsuI€ up fгоm altelation ]ine
the 1mount needed to ýhогtеD.
Staгting at this point, draw а S]antiпg liпе
to whele alteгation tine meetý side seam.
cтease оп alteI*tion line and Ыing сгеаsе
uр to drawn ljne, tapeTing to nothing
DIаw а пеw 8Tain-perfect сепtет line and а
new cutting tine at side seam.
If thele ате waistline daтts, Straighten them,
15

adiusting darts
hоп t0 skaighten а dart
Whеп а pattefn has Ьееп lепФhепеd Ьу
cutting and ýpleading, or shortened
Ьу making а tuck, and the albTation раsýеs
thTough а dart, part of the daтt will Ье
thTorrn off the stгaight glain if thе patteтn
iB ýpтead or tucked оп а sIMt, (See
illuýtгations Jоr lenфhening and sholtening
s bodice back оrrU.) Тhis daTt muýt Ье
put back оп the ýtraight grain beforc йе
pattem piece iý uвed.
If it]ь.a straight darl.Lay а ruleт along
the centeт fold tine. staтtiпg at the daTt
point. DTaw this line ýtrai8iht to the bottom
of the da"t. Тhеп do the same thingwith the
slanted stitchinя lines. ( see dotted lines in
bacl lengrhcning and зhоrtепjпg diagrsmB.r
II it is acmDed dart.'lteat as а straight dalt,
making thе cuNed slit hing liгсF sl raighl,
tOchangettlc positioп 0f ап чпdеrаrm dart
Ап unaleraTm ilart should point diтectly
at the fullest part of the bust. If it does поt,
Tsise от loweT it as folows:
То RаiБе alL UlLd,efamL Daft
This proceduT€ is exactly the reveTýe of
lowering the dart.
cut patt€Tn apart onlenфheninРj-Sholtening
line. Place рарег uпdеrпеаth i
ýpTead pattem pieces the needed amount
and fasten to papel. Ве sule to keep
сепtеr fгont line зtlаiяht.
Between dагt and аrmhоIе dTaw а line
асгоsв patteгn. DIaw а s€сопd line at the
sаmе distance Jrom the filst аý the pattem
Foid pattern оп one line; bling fold to
ýe€ond line and fasten. (This restoтes
oTiainal length of pдttem.)
StTaighten any cutting liпФ and dalts
that need stIgightening,
4
shouIder alterations
сAUTIoN: Ть mеаsulе shouldel length of
а patteTn, always use the bodieeJcoлr-,
,rо' the back. But make the same amount
аltэfаtiоп ir both fюnt апd back.
of
То LoNoer бп Uпd,еrапп Dart
cut pattern асrоýs bodice below armhote
bui above da!t, Place рареI uпdеrпеаth.
Keeping сепtеI line straight, SpTead pattern
amount necessaly to lower the dаIt, and
'aýten
to paper. M€asure up fтom alteIation
]ine the same amount the patteTn was
sргеаdl draý line дсrоSS раttегп.
Fold раrtе!п оп аltеrаtiоп ]ine; Ьriпg fotd
.<r" iФ dr.вх line апd fýrеп, Thiý
,rr'Ф фr,:эl kýirb of ра!tегп, Draý
Е*.*эra Ь.
'п=
б re
'
ald jп,Е . t!d.
Ё &r Er riЁ. а!ъ. .:.!ltle !t€а
1
2
t0 mаkе shoulders паrrow€r
clip and slash patteln as fol wideвing.
Lap slashed edges the needed amount.
Pin оr tape togetheI.
DTalv new Shouldel line as ýhоwп.
I| Pattefл Наs Fofltal,d Shoull]ef Sеаm
_q]ash the раttсгп aS foI ilidening (See
page l?, and proteed aS fогýhоrtепiпg а
n.rmal rhoulde.]ine.
||
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лIлsт IrrINcý лIлý"_ Plr.rt i
t0 mаkе sh0шldЕrc у.idег
Juýt above агmhоIе notch, clip pattem to
FTorn mid-point of ýhoulder sеаm, EIgýh to
аImhоlе sеаm Iine slightly above the ctip.
Place papel uпdег siash; spreaal раttегп
needed amount at shoulalef,ý€am line.
Гasten to рареI.
DIаý, new shoulder cutting line
аý ýhоýт Ьу dotted line.
It Pattem Еаý Fопоаfd Shоuld,вr seanL
Оп Simplicity patterný the поrmаt ýhoulder
line will Ье indicated.
Оп the patteln back, make а Btraight
(peTpendicular) SIaýh JIоm the mid_point
of the fогwатd ýhочidет line to the noTmal
ShочidеI Iine.
Frоm the end of this slash, make а diagonal
ý]aýh {tоm noEnal ýhouider line to just
above аImhо]ё поtсh, аs waý done iп
lengthening а потmаl sbouldel.
Рlасе рареr under s]ash and рrосееd as fol
lengthening а потmаI ýhoutder line.
Оп pattem front, alter as fоI поrmа] shouidel-
Dгаw in пеw cutting tine as ýhопт_
fш sшlаrё ýboulderý
раttегп shouldeт line and aImhole ýhould ье Taised.
TTim оfi pattern mаIgiп Jrorn Shouldeг and аImhоlе.
Place patteгn оп рареI апd on it tгасе the following:
а straisht centeт ]ine.
i Shou]del Iine
1
2
Keeping centeI line ýtraight, mоче pett€m up
ýhouldcT liпе lhe amouni needed rо Iaise. pin in place.
4
5
Оп the рареr, trасе thе аImhоlе etlge.
Unpin pattern; loweT it to itý oriainal
Гаstеп to the рареL
DIawnew shouldeг line from ýhouldel
hole, tapeIing to the ofiainal ýhоuldеI
cut fabric accoтding to new ýhоD]dёг
position.
point of tIaced аIm-
line at neck edge,
1,2
з
'оr
ýloping ýioOlders
The pattem shочIdег line and armhole ýhould Ье loweTed.
Гоllоw steps 1 and 2 foT ýqlrarc ýhoutdel.
Keeping сепtег line ýtraight, drop pattem below traced
ýhou]deT ijne the amount needed to lоwёт. Pin in place.
Оп the paper, tгасе аrпйоlееdае and about2''oi the side seam
DIаw new shoutder line Jгоm ýhoulder point of almhole
to oтiaitlal ýhou]deт line at neck edge.
Move pattem up to its oTiginat position and 1aýten
n_eckline, cente? edge and toweT edge to t}e papel.
When cutting fabTic, fo]l back ýhoutdel and almhote of pat_
tеrп and cut Ьу newýhouldeт and aTmhole tlaceal оп thе рар€т.
4
5
4
5
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TTERN ДDJUSТМЕNlS
t0 ýhorten sbouliel ofkimo!0 ýleeve
lf you need to shorten the ýhouldel of а
set-in ýleeve, уоч will ртоЬаЫу have to
shогtеп the same amount in а kimoro ýleeve.
The alt€Iation is made in both back sпd
fTont of the bodice.
Оп the shouldeT seam line, mеаsulе fTom
the necнine the соmсс' length of the
ýhoutdel ýеаm for уочI set-in steeve.
Fтоm thiB point dгаw а line to the waiýtline,
ending at the side of the waiýtline dart.
(If thеге iý по waistline dаrt, the line is drawn
to the сепtег point of the waistline width.)
StaTting at the top oJ thiý line, make а
tuck in the patteTn the depth needed to
shогtеп, tapering the tuck to nothing at
The above method mаkеs the gаImепt just
Slightly SrпalleI at the Ьчзt line.
Make the ýаmе shouldeI mеаýuгеmепt as
in Method о-
Гrоm thiý point dIаw а Slanting line to
tbe cur!-e of the Dпdега.m.
3 Tuck оп lhis liпе а. in }lethod а,
a l)rаБ .er clltiDa line from the top of the
i*L tiidila l: !ýro Ёi ýlе€те счtýD8:
,a
waistIine alterations
whеп а r aiýtline пе€ds to Ье made lатgеI (and it is not
dtle to л lalge аЬdоmеп) оr Smaller, the alteTation
muýt Ье made in both fтont and bafk, and in both bodice
апd Skirt i{ the раtЬтп is foT а dтess. (If the аЬdоmеп
iS large, See alt€Tation fог enlaTging, page 22.)
t0 mаkе waistliлe |аrgеr
Divide the amount to ье
darts- (Each daтt should
eпlalged Ьу the пчmЬет ol
Ье made паIrоwет Ьу ап
DecIeaýe the width of each dart Ьу dIawing а пеw
stitching line
'7l,rde
the original stitchin8 iin€.
сAUTIoN: Do not decTease any dагt moTe than Уа".
Il stiu iLore uJaistLiпB 1L,idth is пееdеd,
Tlace оп а рi€се of рареI the cutting tine of the pattem
fюm wAiýt to ýide seam поtсh.
Place tтacing under раttегп with side seam notch
diIectly undel that of pattem.
SpIead tтacing at waiýtline % the extтa anount
пееdеd. Pin in position.
compl€te the cutting line along waistline.
to make waistline smaller
1,2
з
a
Divide the amountto Ье taken in Ьу the number of daтts.
(Еасh dагt Should Ье made wid€T Ьу ап equal amount.)
IncTease the width of еасh dalt Ьу dЕwing а п€w
Btitching line oursid€ the oтieiinal stitcbina line.
cAUTloN i Do not iпсIеsýе any daTt mоге thart Уа".
I| stiLl паfе dесfеаsiп!] is пееdеll
Fol]ow Steps 1 and 2 for епiагgiпg waist.
Дt waistline, Slide tlaced line iп towald the сепiеr 1
the ехtrа amount of declease n€eded.
тгьсе lhts line ontn tnp раllегп рiе(€, msling
а пеw cuttjna line-

чрреr hасk alterations
lor гочпd shoulders
The раtt€тп needs both added width and added
length. Determine the пе€dеd length Ьу
compaling уоuг own back waiвt measurcment
with thnt of the раttегп аý given оп the
bnck of the envelope. The dilTercnce is
the amount of lengthening needed.
то ffnd the needed extra width, tlýe fоr
mеаsчгiпg а dress with set_in ýleev€s
which has Ьееп comfortably fitted to you,
Measuтe the back width fтom aтmhole to
аrmhоlе аьоut 4" below the поrmаl neckline,
Then measule the patteln in the ýаmе
location fгоm seam line to centeT back;
dоuые this neasurement. Тhе ditrercnce
between the doub]ed patteln mеаsчIеmепt
and уочг own measuTement is the ехtга
width needed.
At about 4" below п€сНiпё, ýlash pattern
back {rоm center to armhole sеаm ]ine
Slash velticatly llom centeт ol shouldel line
Place рарет чпdеr раttеrп. Sераrаtе cent€f
back sections at crossrise slash the пеёdеd
amount i fasten to рар€f.
Below the eTosswise slash, sepaTate
Iemajningpieces У, ihe amount need-
ed to widen;fasten to рарет.
Spread Shоuldег piece, tарегiпg cтosswise
slаsh to aranhole. Dгаw in пеw shoulder line
ýtarting at neck edge of cutting ]ine апd
dгаwjпg to ýhouldeт еdgс of cutting line,
(Bloken line in diagIan,)
Make back Shouldel line Same width as {Iont
Shoulder Ьу takinc two smal] daIts, aS Shown,
ТЬ I€tаiп огigiпаl waistline width, incleaýe
width of dart. If theтe is no dart, ease_in
the extla width.
for thc "dowag0r's hчmр"
Тhе patten needs added length at uррег centeT
of back. ТЬ detelminё hоw much.
see alteгation for Round shouideTs.
About 2" betow neckline, slash раttегп flom
center back to armhole ýеаm line.
Place paper uпderateath and fasten to it the
patteTn back bеtow the ýlash.
Sргеаd uppeт part of раttегп thе needed amount;
Jasten to the рареI.
DIaw а пеw, ýtraight centel back line Jrom the slash
То rctain oli8inal neck ýize, maIk а daтt Jrom песНiпе
to just аЬоче the slash, taking in at neckline
the same amolnt added to centeт back line-
tor the €хtrа shaight back
То ргечепt the wгiпklеý caused Ьу the very ýtгаight
back, the uppeT back of the patteTn пееds to Ье ýhогtепеd.
То deteImine how much, соmрате youT own baek waiýt
iength with that of the patteгn, as given оп th€ back
of the епчёlор€. Тhе dif€rence between them iý the
amount of shoIt€ning пееdеd.
Pin а hогizопtаl tuck just below the песНiпё ýeam,
taking up at the centel the amount пе€dеd to shoften,
and tарегiпg to nothing at thё аimhоlё seam line.
(If pattern does not tiё flat wЬеп tuek iБ mаdё, clip Jrоm
cutting iine to sеаm ljne at aTmhote edges аý shown
at о in diagTam.)
DIaw а пеw ýtIаiяЬt сепЬт back liпе,
т
I
19

РЛТIЕRN ЛDJUSТМЕNТS
lower hack alterations
for а swayhack
То ргечепt the wlinkleý in the centeт back,
caused Ьу swауЪасk, the pattern needs to
ье shоrt€пеd at the centel back. The best
wау to deteImine the amount needed iý to
mеаsurе on а dTeýý от skiTt which still has
these r0linktes, Have Sоmеопе
рiп-iп'а tuck Buficient to rcmove then.
Pin а holizontal tuck, taking up at the
centel back the аmоuпt needed to Temove the
wriпklеý, ?rnd tapeтing tonothing at Side Seam.
ctip pattern thmugh cuttinд: line at Side
seam ýо it lies flat.
Draw new stтaight сепtеr back line and
Straighten the daгtg.
(FоI stгaightening dal^ts, Sее раgе 16.)
to make hipý оr thighs larger
M.rno.' d. At hip]ine of {Iопt and back Side
Seams of Skilt patteтn, add Уа the amount
needed to entalge. Drаw new cutting line
tдрегiпg to поthiпg at waistline, but of
е!еп lvidth flоm hipline to loý€r edge,
.tl.i/ird l). This method makes the skirt
i litl]t fпll€r thrn ]Iethod а,
: :t,. гJ", г. lt:,g:ns]-
to enlalge through the buttocks
То deteпTine horv much you пееd to enlafge,
liтst pin tояеthеr the flont and back
of l,our skiгt pattem. х{еаýuIе the hipline of
рiппеd plttern frоm сепtег flont tocenter back,
Nolv tako уоur оwп mеаsurеmепt in the
sаmе tocation (:tbout 7" betow the Фsist)
fгоm centel flont io certer back,
Iп а Simplicity pattern fоr а basic
stlaight Skirt, theTe iS 2" of ease
allowed in the hipline, Thelefol.e, thele
1oould Ье 1" еаý€ allowed iп the half you
have mеаýuгеd. yочI оwп meaýtlement
should Ье the measulement of the pattem
minus this 1". Thus, if i.our mеаSulеm€пt iý
the sаmе as that of the pattem, you would
need to add 1"; iJ it iý 1" mоте than the
pattern, yoti should епlдтg€ 2"; and sо on.
Еп]агее the patteln aS follows:
cut the Skiгt baek pattein apart thlough
centel of waistline dalt to to,!,er edge. (If
thete аIе two dafts, woTk with either one.)
At hipline, slash frоmсепtеI backto Sides?oл lir..
Placc рареr undeT the patteln, Keeping
сепtеr baek lin€ stтaight, spread the hipline
slash at centel back line the amount needed
to enlarge. Кеер uрреI and lоwеr sections
of the pattern the same distanee apaTt fюm
centel back to the lengthwiýe Slash.
Whеrе hipline and veltical slashes meet,
sрIеаd the vertical ýlash the same amount
you splead the hip]ine slash at the с€пtеI
back. кеер this distance even ali the way to
NoW taper the hiptine ýlash from the
vefti.a] slash to the side sедm. and factPn
the spтead pjeces to the рар€I.
Sin.e the ý,aist]ine lvi]] hale Spread, it iS
!].(еjSilг}, to геgаiп the originat 1,aiStline
.a.a]lrr!Ben1, This is done Ь! taking up
:.. :]ll:ift,]ri1 iл the dаrt оI daTts.
2
з
7 | .,- ;а1-- ,
iI
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for опa large hip
А very соmmоп бgurе рrоЬ]еm is that of опе
hiр lагgеr than the оthег. ThiS едusеs а
skir' lU hikP Jp Uп lhnl ,jd*; оr, il lhc hAm
]ine is measuled flom the flool to even оfг
the skiтt edge, the fаьIiс wi]l Tun оff gгаiп
on that side.
IJ the diffеIепее between the two hips is
mоIе than 1", both fIont and back of the ýkiTt
patten should Ье a]tered. СЬ€сk the
difelence ьу fiýt tying а tape оr ýtling
аrcuпd your waistline and then having
sorneone пеаsulе fIоiп the waistline to the
floor очеI each hip. If the difierence is less
than 1", the adjustment can Ье done in litting.
Simply letease the seam оп the lацет hip
ýidF and lдрFr ir tо ihF waistlinc so the hem-
line is the same distance frоm the ffоог
оп both sides.
IJ the dilTelence is очеr 1", alteI the patteTn
То fгопt and back patteIn pieces , fasten рареr
ýо it extends above the waistline and
beyond the side seam.
At the ýide Seam, mark up fюm the waisttine
the diffefence betwe€n уош two
Staтting at thiв point, draw а пеw cutting
Iinc, tapeTing to lhe oal,t пеагеr lhe сепlрr.
At the waistline. measule out frоm the side
веаm У2 the amount added above the waist_
line. Dlaw а new cutting tine llom the uрреr
edsie, tapeTing to nothing about 3" below
the Ыр line.
Use the alteied patteTn to cut the {аЬriс.
тhеп оп the ýide that needed по altefation,
tlim away the ехсеýв Jabric above the
waistline and along the side Seam, following
the original cutting liп€ý of tbe Datteтn.
neckline alterations
to паkо а песlliпе ýmallol
If а песИiпе пееdý to Ье mаdе considerably
ýma]iel, tly taking s Уr" seam instead oJ
th€ поrmаl %" sеаm on the neckline. But if
it needs to Ье made опlу а little sma]leт,
ploceed aS follow8 :
At center 1ront and centel back песнiпе,
mеаsuге in Jrоm cutting line а veIy srвll
amount actually less than 1/16". Fтоm this
point dйw а line to the waistliпe, tapefing
to поthiпg at the bottom.
The balance oJ the amount needed to make
it ýmallel is taken fтom the Shoulde! ýeam.
Divide this Ьаlапсе Ьу 4 (iherc arc 4 ýееm
liпes). Measure doй} frcm вhоr dёг tine on
the neckline sеаm line this amount.
Frоm this point, dгаw а new shouldeI line
to the aтmhoie end of the Shouldel.
If песkliпе has а facing, alteT the facing
the same amount and in the same tocation.
t0 inake а neckline larger
Atl of the addition shoutd Ье mаdе at the
ShouldeI ýеаmý, adding Уа the amount
needed to both flont and back shouldeIs.
тhеп dlаw апеwsьочldеrl;пе fгоmпесk to
атmhоiе. Also enlaTge facing if theTe iS опе.
t0 alter the.ollar
u an altefed neckline hаз д collaI. the
cotlaT must alýo Ье nade laцeT от smаllеI.
Add on от take ofi at centeт front and
centel back yr the amount needed.
5
21

лIяs? ?irlNcs ,.IEý" P,l?"rR]v дr.rusтмЁN?s
l
hust & аьdоmеп alterations
to епlаlgе at the аЬdOmеп
The front о{ both bodice and skiIt patterns
need to Ье enlaтged uр-апd-dо,Ф and acтoss,
ТЬ determine how mчсh enlargement iý
neealed, mеаýuге уоuI оwп fTont waistline
fгоп underrlm to undeIalm; divide thiS
mеаsuIеmепt Ьу 2. Тhеп, on eithef bodice оr
skirt раtt€m, pin-in апу rraistline daтts and
mеаýuге lhе maiýlline сrоm ýidё зеаm line
to сепtеI flont line, тhе difielence between
the patt€rn mеаsurеmепt and the hal{ of
уош own mеаslrгеm€пt iS the amount you
need to splead the pattem at the waistline
Sеаm liп€. So proceed as followý:
on the .kiгI Гrолt, belos the dart point bu(
above the side sеаm }lotcb, Slash асIоss
pattem from center flопt a.lmoýt to
side seam line.
Slash fтom rл,aistline almost to lowef edge
Ь€twееп waistline dalt and сепtеt fтont.
оп bodice flont, at about 3" above waiýtline,
stash fюm center almost to side sеаm.
Аlзо. hetween waistline daтt and centel JTont,
slash fTom waiSt]ine almoStto ShoLdder seam.
Place рарег uпdеI the раttегп pieces.
Кеер сепtег front lines stlaight апd sрrеаd
the patteTn pieces on the veftical slash
ot t|Le йaistliпP, l]nе лeeded amount. This
will automatically cause the patteтn to
Sprcad the coirect amount whеIе the
horizontat and veгtical slashes meet.
'lЪрёг the vertical slash оп the Skilt to the
lоwег edge and оп the bodice to the shouldeT.
Taper hotizontal slashes fIоm the veltical
Slash to the Side sеаms. Кеер геmаiпdеr of
the hofizontal slashes the same x,idth f.om
!егtiсаI slash to c€nteT frопt.
Гаsrел pattern pieceJ to the рарет.
Re].{ale the rтa!r!line daг!s л fol]oч,s:
a уеа!Jrt ir.,fi...1.r frФпl line to dirt
point. Keeping the same distance from
сеп'еr rrопt, dгiw я ncw dar| сепlFг ]inc
fTom point to waistline.
Ь .A.t wэistline, meaýLlTe width ot oliginal
daTt fTorn с€пtеr line to ýtitching liп€S;
then meaýure the same distance each sid€
of new daTt сепtег line, MaIk.
с Dгаw slanting Stitchin8 lines ffоm daIt
point maTký at waistline.
StIaighten gfainline of skirt as follows:
а Measure digtanle frоm bottom of
glainline alrow to сепtеf front.
Ь Keeping Same diýtance all the way to the
skiгt top, dгаw д new grainline,
for the snallbшýt
out off patteTn mаrgiп at loweT edge of
bodice fIont. Under bottom edge рlасе рареr
and tтace оп it the еdgе of the раttеrп,
on the patteln, сопп€сt tbe point of the
waistline dalt and the point of the
чпdевIm daIt witb а реп€il line.
cut thlough centeT oJ waiýtiine dart,
сопtiпчiпя thlough drаvп line and centeт
of undelaтm dart. (Diaglam о.)
Pin сепtеr fгоltt section oJ раtЪm to the
рарег along dIawn line at bottom.
Using the diagonal slаýh between the two
dart poitts aS the key tine, tay the side
Section oJ the pattel}1 in р]асе, lapping the
cut edges У2 the аmоuпt пееdеd to decTeaýe.
Fasten in place. (Diaglam Ь.)
since this Taises thе ýide ýё.tiоп oJ the
patteln, uýe tbe drawn ]ine at the bottom
as the cutting line {от the lоwёr edge.
At sido зеаm. dlaw а new cutting line fTom
above dart centeI to аrmhоlе. Below the
daIt, use the cutting line on the patteгn.
6
1
:_.i,lljli_-
,2

llДJ
lог the large hцýt
When you take your body meaýuTementý
and find waist, hip al1d back waist lenath in
agIeement with а ceriain ýize, but уочr
buýt is taTge loI that size, it iý best to 8et
the size patteTn that aerees with уочr
thTee meaýul€ments and alter the pattem
in the buýt. гоf if you go Ьу уош bust
mеаSurеmепt, the renaindel of the body
measurements will ье too laIsie {от уочI
fi8uIe and уоu wilt have mole a.ltelations
to make. S;nce а lатgе bust cauýeý а bodice
flont pattem to Ье not only too патrоw but
aISo too sholt JoI the front waiýt lengtb
(Shouldel to waistline), the pattem needý
lengthening as well аs widening.
S]аýh pattern veltically through c€nter of
waistline dalt to shouldet sеа,lп Liпё.
Cut раttегп apaтt hoTizontally thfough сепtег
о{ underarm dаIt, Plnce рареI undel pattern.
WhеIе lengthwiýe and сгоззwisе ýlasheý
дeet, spTead the pieces horizonta.lly and
velticatly % the amount пё€dёd to enlaTge,
keepiпg сепtеf |fопt Line stfaight.
Place papel undeгneath,
Still keeping сепtеI fIont tine stгдight,
tapel the vertical slash ffоm the сюsswisе
slash to th€ shоuldег. Ке€р the сfоssйве
slash ап ечеп width all acTosý the раttегп.
Fasten the spfeadpattern pieces tothepapel
маkё а пеw dart at the underalm Ьу Starting
in the eenteт of the crossl,,/ise slash at the
point of the oтiginal dart and drawing
ýlantinя liles to the огigiпаl daft stitching
lines at the side ýеаm. lf the nelv dart
would Ье very.algp. make two Бmаllег on"S.
1Ъ restoтe the waistline measuтement, make
two пеw waistline darts of equal depth, one
iп the poýition of the oTiginal daTt and the
otber пеатеI the undelarm sеаm. К€ер the
centeT line of the пеw daтt pamllet to the
for а large шрреt аIm
cut offmargin {rоm ýleeve pattem.
Оп рарет, tIace the outline of епtirе sleeve.
Staгt at top сепtег ; cut patteTn Straight to wгi ýt sФm,
Pin pattёTn lоrrег edge to lowef edge oJ tlaced slе€че.
At about 1" below чпdеrап!, spfead
ýlashed pattern the песеssаrу amount. Fаstеп to
рареI just Ь€lоw thiз point.
Bfing top edees of ýtaвhed piec€s togetheт апd fasten.
ТЬ ffatten patteTn, fогm dагts fтom ýlashto Sleeve (ар.
То cut out Sleeve, use original traced line
fог the Bteeve top, blending it into the new line
of the altered раttеrп.
on Ъоth bod;ce flont and backpatteгns, add to Side
ýeams atundeTalm 16 the amount added tothe sleeve
width, tapeTing to just above 1vaistline аý Shown.
for а thin црр0I аlm
This merhUJ аltрrs wilhout diýtuIbing slee!e grain.
Flоm Small dots on back and lTont of sleeve сар, dTaw
зlапliпg lines to сепlег оl pall Fгп loweI pdge.
on these two liпеý make tucks. Depth oJ each tuck at
sleeve top should Ье % the amountneeded to Ье
геmочеd. Тареr tucký tonothing at bottom.
Оп side sёаms of fTont and back bodice patterns,
mеаsчге iп at the аImhоlе уа the amounttaken out of
thё sleeve, Гromthiý point dIаwа пеw Side seam
.uпins llпе 1ареrlпс lo nothing al 1hе waist]ine,
Рlа€е рареI undef loweT cul've of almholei fasten pat-
Ъш to it. Starting atnew side seam line, raise
аImhоlе cuttine line thе amount taken оtr of Bide
seam. btendinя it into oliginal cutting line as ýhown.
1
2
з
4
5
1
8

Whеп 1ooking fof а dress
а bodice you tike but you
(от vice versa), the tгick
And you can do the same
indicate you аге one size
to comhine bodice and skilt of difiereпt sizes
Decide whеthеI уоu want to uýe the waist
гпеаsulеmепt of bodice оI skiTt.
Altel the waisttine of the оthеI patt€ln
piece, mаkiпа it laтgeT от Ёmаllеr as needed,
(See page 20 fоI thiý patteтп ,lteIation.)
chock placement of waistline daltз
iп alteIed piece. Relocate iJ песеýSату.
to combine sleeve afid bodice 0f 2 ýtyles
I{ bodice is dalt-fitted, апу sleeve frcm апу
dalt-{itted bodice can Ь€ substituted
foт the sleeve in the patteTn, pfovided уоu
ale combining two ,Simрliсiiз, раttегпý.
But а shilt type sleeve cannot Ье
substituted in а dalt-fftted bodice nol vice
veNa. This is because а shouldeг and
flont аImhоlе о{ а shiтt type bodic€ аrе cut
difiercntly frоm tbose of а dalt-fitted bodice.
The above аlsо applies to sераrаtе blouses,
how to соmЬiпе 2 patterns
patteтn and уоu find one with
ргеJеI а ditreгent skiгt
iB to get two pattems and
thing if youl meaýufements
above and sпоthет below
The fo]towinli combinations аrе еаýу to make, b t
they apply о?r? to combining two siиplicir, patteTns.
to соmьiпе hodice and ýkirt ol sапе ýize
Check placement of waiзtline dагtý in both bodice and
Skift. Pin-in furts in both раttегп piecell; pin bodice
and SkiIt togetheг, matching side seams al1d centeтs.
(тhеrе will Ье еаSе in ýkirt waist}ine.)
'rogfor?
о.
If daгt ýeams in both pieceý do not mаtсh at waigtline,
T€locate ýkiI' dalts ýо sеаm lines lalt directly
below tbose of bodice dafts. Diagfafп Ь.
ноlr to R.lo.df. lldfls
Measufe on bodice waistline seam the diýtance fl.om
bodice centeт to dalt Stitching line.
оп skiтt waistline ýеаm line, measule the same
diýtance fгоm the center. МаIk this point fог one
ýtitching line of new daтt.
меаsuге width oJ оriяiпаl skiIt daтt at waistline and
mаIk
'ог
Second Stitchin8 lille of пеw daтt.
Halfway between the two maтk"-, dтаw а fold liпё for
пёw daIt. Кеер it раIяl]еl with and game length as
fo]d line oJ original daгt.
FIоm stitching line points, draw glanting lines to end
Reklcating 2 Dafts
Malk fo! the пеw dalt that iS пеаrег the сепtеI.
Then measure from Stitchinei line of fiIst bodice daIt to
stitching tine of ýecond bodice daIt.
lIеаýчrе same diStance from stit.hing line of neв,skiri
dart and mark for Stitching liп€ of ýесопd skirt dart.
'/
sl,irJ lсJ -".,rt !tl.alз
'nst€ad
of darL.. tbe pleat fold
cdlt ,hфld .otnctde ýltb Ыt.р dбrt s.sm,
l
l
1
2
to сопhiпе а separate skirt and Ьlочýе patter0
Locate waistiine of blouse. Dlаw а line
acTosý pattern. Thiý witl Ье the rraiýtline
зеаm line of the dresý bodice.
Meaýule %" below waiýtline fоI sеаm
al]owance and dЕw а second line асIозý
patteIn. This is cutting Iine tol dIФs bodice.
cut ofi loweT раrt о{ blouse pattern below
this second line.
when joining bodice and skilt, you will
ffnd mоrc еаsе in the bodice Фaistline than
noTmalty found iп а one-piece dTesв
(unless the blouзe iý а ýпuяtу-ffttеd опе).
Eithe. dalt this iп оI esse it in to fft
the Skirt Eaiý|ljne, lf dагt is madF. place it
diгect]]r oYer я,aiýtline dart of sНгt,
if tьёгё is sDch а dart_
2L

уоцr sеwiпg dictionary
Like апу language, the language of sewing
continually сhапgеs аs пеw methods
intToduce пеw woIds and рhrаSеs. Explained
hеrе are ýome of the telms used а great deal
in mоdеrп ýewing. Весоmе wеu acquainted
with theýe terms so that when you meet thеm
you will undeTstand at once what they mеап.
еqчiрmепt terms
d.Ossmakeas ttacing paper. А gpecial type of
coated рареr L]sed in tfansfeтTirtg
conýtгuction Symbols flom the pattern to the
fаЬгiс. It eomes packa8ёd in vaTious colors,
light and dafk, Сhооsе а со]ог that will ShоW
piainly against the соlоI oJ your fabfic, but
that witl not shоw thтough shееI fabfics.
(Sее page З5, fоr inýtiuctions оп how to
maтk with tгacing рарег.)
intorfacing. Mnterial fог stiflening, Shaping от
leinJoтcing ceтtain Sections of а galment.
Ir.t€flocfпg mау Ье woven (,!vith lengthwise
,nd .ToSSwiSe thrcads) such aS canvas oI
mustin, oI it mау Ье non,woven, with the Iibles
plcssed togethel in а matted effect, It pays to
buy good quality intefacing. (Fот 1!hеп and
hоw to use iпt€Ifаеiпq. see Dages 82-84.)
sеаm guide (oI sеаm gauge). Designed to
assiýtin making Seams of even width,
Attached to thеЪёd of tbe sewingmachine
atthe deEiled distance fTomtheneedle, it
acts aS nguide foIthe faЫic edge,lt сдп Ье
adjusted to dif erent widths,
Тhете аге Sevent types oJ thesefoт use with
rlifelent types of sewing machines, inctuding
aguide that can Ье adjuýted fоr чsе with
zipper foot. А Specia}ly designed ргеSsеr foot
fof use in putting: iп zjppels. It has only
one ргопg. Most ziррff loo' attachments ате
adjtstabte, the опе рrопg stiding to light
uf lert tог ut" оп cilheг lidc ol lhp zipp"r
сhаiп. This allows both sides of the zippeI to
ье Stitched jп the sаmе dilection , . , with
the ягаiп of the fab c.
cordiпg foot. This, too, has а single рrолg but
is not adjuýtable. Both fight and lеJt
согdiпg foots аrе available and mау Ье used
JoI ziррег iпsёгtiоп. But both typeý
''rc
necessaтy if Stitching iý to Ье dопе аhчауS
stitching terms
backýtitching. Backcti l.thiпg Se"U гFs i he епd*
of lines of Btitching. Modeтn sewinli
machines will stitch backwaTd as we]l зs
forwaтd. If уоur mасhiпе does not back-
stitch, teave the needle in the fabfic at the
end of the stitching. Lift the рIеýsет foot and
turn the matelial around оп thе needle.
Then lowel the ргеssеI foot апd siitch over
the filst stitching JoT about У9 inch.
haýteýtitching (оr mасhiпе basting). То baýte Ьу
machine, adjuýt the stitch Tegulato} foT thё
longeýt stitch (6 pel iпсh оп mostmachines),
ТЬ геmоче machine baýting, Snip the bobbin
thlead ечеrу few inches and pttll out shoTt
thleadý. AlrFays Ьаsrа-sfirс' in the direction
of the аIrоwS pTinted on the Seam lineý of
уоuг Simplicity Patte},n. (See page 12,)
[aste-mark. whеп constmction symbols,
malkeal оп the wrопg Side of the fabTic, ате
п€еdеd on the Tight ýide of the JаЬгiс (such
аý buttonhole and pocket locations), baste-
ýtitch on the wlong side Tight очег the
markings pfeviou8ly trасеd thеге.
machine-gatheriпg. Fоr shеег {abTicý, uýe
а ýtitch slightly ]опgеr than svefage; fоI
hеачiеr fabгics, incIease the ýtitch l€n8ith.
Stitch whеrе the gathers ате needed, as in_
dicated on the pattern от in th€ РIimеI,
Puil up the bobbin thтead fтom both endý
until the gathers аге the ртореr length.
Fasten both ends of the gathering thгеаd,
Оп most fabrics, а second ToW of stitching
is helpJut.
25

сOпstrшсtiOп tBrms
bias. Апу direction оп the fabTic away
the ýtraight lengthwise or сгоýSwisе
(See Dадiе 29 оп FаЬIiсý.)
stay"stitching. А line of Iegutation lenlith
machine stitching done оп bias от cuTved
adses lhаl аrе lo ье jojned lo апоthеr piece,
It iS done to hotd the gгаiп so the fаЬгiс
wjll поt stTetch duтing conýtгLlction. sro?-
srrrсП on а Siпglё thickness of mateIial, ,1s"
fтom the seam iine within the seam
allowance. (ExcEPTloN: д deep cuTve ог
:] песk]iпе. нете. зrо]/-srifсtiпg ýhoirld Ье
done on the seam line.)
stay"stitch immediately aft€T removing the
pattern, шith the grail in the diTectioný
shown Ьу the afrows iп the diagтams.
top-stitching, А ]iпr оr linps of stit hinc made
on the o].t'srdc of the gаImепt Jailly close
to lh( sеаm line, Еоr example. а couar ог сutr
iS oJten
'op-ýrrt.n€i'
eitheT fоI decoTation
of to hold the Iolied ýеаm еdgе in place.
clip. А Shоft snip in а sеаm allowance ог
selvage with the point oJ the ScissoTs at an
angle to the Seam oI selvage. Seams ате
.iipped ýо the outeт edges wiIl Spread apalt
to fit апоthег Section of the gзTment, oI so а
curved ýеаm will lie flat whеп tuгned, от ýо
а selvage will not dгаw up ог c!Tl. Where а
pattern indicates that а clip is to Ье made
into а corner, do поt make the clip until you
аrе ýewing on that palt of the gаrmепt,
easc Shou]d Ье woTked-in €чепlу between
patteTn mагkiпgs without looking gathered
ог puckered. Pin the ýеаm with pins closeI
tояеthет whеI€ the sas. iý found. If thеге iý
mоте than just а slight futlness to ье eased-
in, аý in thе top of а Sleeve, mаkе опе от tтo
lines of eaJe-strrcftй9, Тhеп pull up еithеI
the top ог the ЬоЬЬiп thrеsd fTom both ends
lo adjust thP fullлess.
ease mау mFап опе оf lwo jhiпgs: The clighl
fullness of опе sean edge not found in the
опе to which it is to Ье joined; or the ettTa
sprce оr "toleтance" designed into а patteTn
to allow the body to move comfoгtably in
the finished яагmепt. (гоr ease аllо]rапсе in
Simplicity Patterns see page 8,)
In constIuction, you аIесопсетпеd chiefly
with the fiTst definition. The most соmmоп
place to ffnd €dJ€ iý at the top of а sеt-iп
ýleeve. AnotheI muсh uýed афа is the back
shouldeI ýeam. YouI Simplicity Pattem will
iлdicate cleaIly whеrе PaJP iý lo Ье adjuated,
Under.stitching. А tеrm ýometimes uýed to
desclibe top-stitchiпg dопе оп the гi8ht
side of а facinsi yerI cloýe to the ýеаФ
]ine в,hiсh iý to Ь€ rolled inside sо the
.tjtchina дпd 9€ал ýill not ýhо*,.
2в

ease,stitcfting. Stitching uýing about 10
stitch€s to the inch foI the puTpose ol
contlolling еже. Whеп one Tow is used, place
it оп the sедm line. whёп two юws аrе
wапtёd, рlасе опе on the Seam line and the
othel just tjeyond the ýеаm line within
the sеаm allowance,
ease threads. Tbrcadý uýed in eaýe-stitching
which аrе to Ье puiled up to sdjust the slash. То cut open. А
ореп afteT ýtitching
opening at the wlist
so it will lie flat. тhе
Еаiп. Either lengthwiýa оI cTosswise threads
of the fabTic. Lengthwise thrеаdý аIе
usually геfеrlеd to asthestrai!]ht gfailx.
Unlesý the patteTn iпdicates that it iS to Ье
laid оп сгоýýwisе grаiп, itý ciTainlinemalký
should ruп withthe lenяthwise gгаiп.
againstthe glain
wiii tho grain
lrith the grain: In the direction in which the
JabTic gTain гuпS. Whеп{аЬгiс is cut опа
сч е ol ýlant (bias), you cut "with the
gтain"; you stitch "with the gгаiп";
you press "with the grain".
agaiпst thegain: In а direction opposite to
that in which the fabтic gгаiп ruпS.
Дчоid whеп possible woтking "against
the gTain".
tack. То hand-ýew опе ýection of а gaтmentto
апоthет with а Jew somewhat loose stitcheý.
,4,arrple ., You "tack" а neckline facing to
the galment at the shoulder Seams.
layeling] This iS also ca]]ed sfogrrrir.g or
gIodir.g.Itis а methodof eliminating зеаm
bulk in heavyfabгicý оl in sеаms whele
inteгfacing has been uýed. Theseams ате
tlimmed а]рау with one sеаm allorп&nce
naTrowel than the other. (Fоr detailed
instTuctions оп laUerrgl s€е page 88.)
rеiпforсе. Ъ stтengthen ал ares. yon fein| оfсе
а еогпеr that iý to Ье tlimmed and tulned,
оI опе that is to Ье clipped.
Reinforcement is usually dопе Ьу using vely
ffпе stitches in the аf€а. (See Reinfoтce-
ment Stitch, Dаgе 28.)
trfun. То cut away ехсеýз tahтc. ТriпLmiлg
оссцrs mosl оf!ёп in ýеаms sh.rе fhe cxcess
ýеаm allo,wance is cut away. (See layering
opposite.) coTners аfе tfimm.ed Ьу alltting
diagonally aclosý the point close to the'
stitching.
underliпing. А lining which is ап integйi рдrt
of а galment and used to keep а ýkirt or
dreýý fTom ýtтetching оI Bagging out о{
ýhаре, от to accent the sh&pe of а gaiment.
(See pageв 85-87 fоr hоw to underline.)
pir0t. Iэaving the needte in thefabгic, tum
the material beingstitched iп anewdirection.
This iý done whеп sriиhiпg arouлd а соrпет.
Unit шOrk рlап. This is the constтuction method
uýed in the Simpticity SystemoJ Sewing.
In thiý method each unit, оIýесtiоп, ofa
gaтment is compteted as fullyaý posýible
Ьеfоrё joiningit to the next unit. Thiý Tesolts
in teýs handtingof the various pieces of а
gaтm€nt, keeps them Jrеýhеr looking, and
sач€s time. (See page 2, fог chaIt оп the
Unit WогkРlап.)

gцideпееdlе, thread & stitch
lаЬгiс tшеý
пOdlum Weight
mеdiчm ieavy
-l-.;;
hcaly
vor, heavy
,1,5
-
i --_-+- -
ýiоOr
liяЬtшеiФt
_-]
l!l
---i---'--__-i_.*-__i"----l r.rо i г,.. l ?,з
ll,_
taýic ýtitch leпgths
Thele ате 4 Btitch lёпеithв which ате most geneтally usеd and each hаs а special puryose, as followý:
Rе!ц]аtiоп Stiteh . . . fl.om 12 to 16 реr iпсh, depending оп the type fabгic. Fiпе апd lightweight fabricý
use shoTtel lengthý, (See сhатt above.)
Ваstiпg Stitch . , . the |ongest Stitch оп youT machine.
Доsе srrrсh .. . abont 10 to the inch, UBed foT easing-in {ullneýs evenly, (See Еаýе, page 26,)
Rеiп|опеmеfut gt,itch , .. about 20 to the inch, Used in атеаý that пееd ýtrengthening,
(see ReinfoTce, рбgе 27, )
to fastgп stitchcý
MachiпeSti'tchin{r.IfTлachineýtit{hesbackward,endbyStitchingbackfor4or5stitches.Ifthreads
Shoutd Ье fastened at the staTt, put пееailе into JabTic 4 оI 5 stitches ahead oJ staтting point and stitch
back to Starting point. lf machine does not stitch backward, pull thrеsds thюugh to *топg ýide
and tie. oft start 4 ог 5 stitches in fгоm the stalting point and Бtitch to the starting pointj
then piтot the woTk оп the пееdtе апd Stit h.
яdйd strt.l.ý, At sиrt, use kпоtt€d thгеаd iplace knot оп wгопg Side) ог fAsten thгеэd with оп€
ortB,o.tit.hбoýerthefirs!..lten.t.holdthгeaddoNnlTiththethumbitak€aba,k_,titch,andbefo,e
drlrirr8 rb! ,rt b liabr рs_6s tbe n€edle чпdеr фе stit b loop to Ев}е 3 hot,
plrsticý
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fabrics
choose}.ouT lablicв caIefully. маk€ sure they
sJ it bo'h yoUr раil,,гл and }оuг ffgUre, А rаЬri.
сап make you appeaтlalgel от Smalleт, talteт ог
sьоrtеr, о]dеIогуоuпqеf. оп the backofyouT
Simpticity patteгn envelope, you wiillind а liSt
ог ] hF tаЬriс iypPs зuccested tOr th. pat]eTn,
terms yotl shoшld kпоw
selvage. The woven lengthwiseedge ofJabтic. on
ceгtain types of fabтics the selvage will Ьеwочеп
tighteг оI closeT than the restof the piece.
ýtraighten fabric gtain. Nоt€,, Оtr-gгаiп {аЬгiсs
tIested with ceItain реImапепt ýtabilizing finishes
cannot beýtTaightened, but it mа.kез no ditreTence
as they willnotstTetch out of ýhape. Butwhen
placingýueh fabrics on table {оr cutting, sqllale
the endý with the Setvage; that is, cut the ends во
theymake а fightangle with the setvage.
IfaJabгic iБ ргlЪrеd otr-grain, cuteach of two
matchingpieces sepalately - Such as the two
Jrontý of а Ыоugе - liпiпg чр the Sееопdрi€сё
with the design on the ff.st.
Тоtеагп if otheIfabгics аге glain-perfect, fiгst
stmichten епds. Тhеп foldin hatf lепяthwiýе апd
pinedgeS of oneendtogethel. Pin selvages
together.lf pinned fаЬгiс lies Яаt and ýmooth
on а table, it is on gIain.Ifnot оп glain, чýеопе
oJ these methods to st iighten:
grаiп, ТhеlёпglhWi.рапd.rо..uits,lЪгпаd..
Lengthuise Graill.'lh.teads that ruп uр and doTn,
parallel to the selva8ie.
СrоýýФrs€ сIоiй, Тhrеаdý that luпасгоss
between the Selvages.
bias, Апу dilection away flomthe ýtlaight
lengthwise ог cIosýwiSe glain.
Гlй€ Bras. The diagonal liпё folmedwhen fаЫiс
is foldedso сIоsýwisе threads Iun in the snme
dir.ct ion Js leng'hwiJ" l hr.аJа. , Тruс B,.l is
the equivalent of the hypotenuýe о{ ш equilateral
dEht-anдiled tтiangle. )
preparation for cutting
ь
straighteп fahric епdý. Snip Selvasie; pul] оutа
closslvise thread, cut аlопq this }ine,
оI cottoný апd some оthеrfаьriсs, if not
treated with а wrinkle-Teýis tant оr lesin finish,
can Ье toIn StTaight. Simp]y Snipthe selvasie апd
B?it, апу {аЫiс, if tтeated with such а finiýh,
shoutd Ье cut. , . both fTom the boltwhen
purchasing and at hоmе if ends must Ье
+
for апу untreated fabric
Pull fabтic on bias in dilection opposite tothatin
which the оtr-grаiп cтoýswiýe thгeads Tun, untit
thethгeadý атё Straight and squaгedwiththe selvage,
IJ not badly ofi-grain, try stlaightening Ьу ýteam
plessing. La}. fabricfiaton а cuttingboard, Pin
ýe]vages and endý to ЬоаId, squaredoff. Рlасе
ýteim iгоп on tablic, lift and move it to next атеа.
Do NoT push iгоп backandJolth.
for untrBated wаshаh|е fablics
Uso аj,hег оГ thе lwo рrеl ious mpl hoJq ог ihi. опе |
Fоid fаЬгiс lengthwise ; pin ýelvagesand ends.
Гold loosely sevel.at times. Put in wаrm water foI
about 20 minutes. Remove and unfold butleave
piný in. Hang ýtraight очеr etotheshoTse Ьагs ог
several lowý ofciothes lin€, Whеп dry, test foT
ýtтaight gтain. Repeat if needed.
shrinl tabric if necessary.
Moýt modeTn fabIics
€specia]ly woolens and mап-mаdе ffbe.s - hач€
hаd а shliпkаgе contrcl trcatment.If yourfablic
haýnot, оI if its ýh гi n kage tolerance iý mоге than
1%, it Should Ье ýhrl]пk befoIe cutting.
t0 shlinkGOitons 0r 0thet washables
Follow method describcd foI StIaightening
wnýhable fabтics, using hot water and teaving
{nbric immеrsеdfогflоm % to 1holll.
cr0sýwise gtain
io'
жJ*,,|
[
29

i._/
-' /,
handling special fabrics
пар up
selvages
С/
парреd, pile or 0пе,wау fabrics
dsiinitiOný
А порpеd |abric is опе with а haiTy оr dоwпу
surface. lt mау Ье "unbтushed" ltпch аs flannet, or
one brushed iп опе diTection such as wool
broadcloth. (Оп pattelns, "пар" mеапS anJl
J prl, lol,//c hаý а sufface composed of fiЬеI ends
standing up, such as lelvet,
А апе-|ац pliпt о1, r-eare has а design that moves
in опс direction only, suсh as а ]1оwеI plint ý,ith
thе flоwеr heads ali pointing the Sаmе ýау,
Yhen laid оп snch fabтics, all patten pieceý muýt
hаче their tops poillting in the Same dilection,
as in drog"c|, а. Therefole befole buying these
fablics. consolt the back of youI Datt€Tn enve]ope
|о,*р iГ чаrdаяе i< given Гоr thiý lip. Гаоri.,
If not, ;[dd ill to З,li yald to the giтen yardag€,
ftow t0 cut
Ntр or pite lunning l.р makes аJаЬriс look dят}еr:
ruплiгg doll, mokp, jl 1ook l,yhl"r ard,hi,io,,
l
';agrcrl
D, ] I t is general]y conýi deIed best lvh en
the пар funs doli, for fabfics Such aS пооl
bToa.tcloth, vetours, fieece, etc,, апd хр foт the pite
weaYes ve]vet. lelYeteen and cord loy.
То leatlL,u7|1ch ъац the пар of pil. r?l1?ý, pa-,s i,ouI
hand lightly along the fаЬгiс length, If it f,els
.lmooLh and Lr.re.js''Is lo }.U. lo!j(h, lhF аlrп iq
гuппiпg in the diгection уоu ale moving },оur
hапd. lf it fcels roughiSh and Tesists youl touch,
it is running opposite to youl hand moYement,
Il о |)atter hаs по .Iia|]lam Jol cuttiпg папсd
ol опе-фщ f abrics, ,ftange раtt€m as follows:
With tops of all pieces pointing in same direction.
on а l.,gfrais. fold, i{ 2 pieces аIе to Ье cut 1lt
опё lir@., D,og,0- J,, Do NoT Lc, а сrосiuiс"
fold, b€c:]use Simi]al pjeces ivi11 hа!е the пар
Tunning up on опе and dоц,п оп tha otheT,
Ап exception to this is the fttll ciIcle ýkiTt fоI
i. a.].lt Thi. n1ust .* cUi оп а сгоSSýisе
. .:. , .; .: ::-, :rp .ill ,], l
If the wiclth of youт Dsttегп pieces is ýuch that
they must Ье cut crosswiso oJ the fabтic and you
vапt to cut 2 thicknesseý at one time, mеаýurе
the ]ength of }.our k)ngest patteтn picce and cut
the fabric сIоSswisе at that ]ength. Тhеп tuтn the
ппtlеr lауеf around so the bottom edJae ЬесоmёS
the top, and р]асе uррег and lоwеr ]аусrg ,lvith
г'ghl .jdas l,,gFllс., ThP пъп, p'l" пг dcsi8n Uп
both pieces поw Iuпs in the same clil.€ction.
If you аI€ usjng а Wide wale eotduтoi, and vant
cheýrons, treat like а stlipe,
hOv t0 sew
Sin.e лхl.р.d апd nil" Гаhr:,* 1Fпd t^ ýIip ln
stitching, Seams Should Ье basted. If you pin-baste,
place pins cloýe togethef at Iight angles to edges
and, if уоur machine ýtitches ovel pins, do not
Iemove them as i.ou stitch.
Use, Slightly ]onger-than-avelage machine Stitch
nnd lessen the ргеSSuте on the рIеSýог {oot,
гoI согdulоу and velveteen gathercd skiTts,
gather Ьу hand lith Stitches about %" long.
how to pless
1 Nol]pel], FаЬ]i.|з
I| bl.|Shed' рfеss 1l.;th the nip, ltrsing aS little
preýSuTe апd moistпfe as роssiЫе.
I| 1lllЫllshe(1, place apiece of wool fabтic ovef the
ironing ьоаId. Plac€ right side of gafment
ag:inst the ll,oot and pтess on wlопg side. Thile
lll,ri, i. slill ,leaTi.lg, Ьгu-h si-h 'hё gr.iг,
i]estTeýults are obtained Ьу using а vetyet pressing
boald. . , а lengith of canvas coleled with t]plight
рiес€s oJ wiтe, Place the pile side againSt the wiге
ard р"е:s'jдht. Iitlin8:1no |olv"r пf р ir,,п,
If а lelvet Ьопгd iý not avai]ab]e, stand а dly iIon
оп its hееli р]асе а damp ргеSS c]oth oýer the
wюпg sjde of the faЫic апd pass the mnterial
back апd folth olel the ]rоп so the steam
р€пеtгаtеs the !i]e, , D;a!rtanl с.)
- thiгil bul less зatisfrctors r method is to 1ау
:ie iаi,гi( !!le .ide Jоýп oeI selelal thicknesýes
, : :]r;i.ii :"rr! !1,!чеlS апd steam,press light]y.
1
t
1
darker
пар dOwn
,l'
,]
i
,l
.l
{,
l
I
l li
lighter
'old
J,
f 1.] п .:: .., ,! :ae.i;.1

i
plaids
If уоuг patteтп does not liзt yaтdages foT plai&,
you wilt need about % уаId extTa if the plaid is
aveTage ýize, от about % yard il а laTge plaid.
Another way to dеtегmiпе the ехtга yardage is to
count the пчmЬеI oJ locationв whете thе design
must Ье matched апd buy one €xtra plaid biock
Веfоге laying pattem on fabTic, plan thё position
оl tbe mojl noli(eat,le lFпеithsiзе and crosswiýe
Ьатв. The dominant lengthwise Ьат чsuаliу looks
best in the centeT and the cTosswiýe, just below
the shoulders, Тrу to avoid рlлсiпg darts оп the
mmt Doticeable ЬаIs.
hov/ t0 c[t
ГоI accuracy in cutting, pin the labric lауегs
toge(her alona thё plaid lineý in both directions ýо
they will not ýhift.
РIап to matcb at thеýё роiпЪ:
Fоf bodice оr blouse: At centers and ShoutdeтS.
В€саuýе oJ the uпdейгmdатЬ plaidý usually
caвIlot Ье matched the full len8th of the uпdетаfm
seam. centeT bAck of соllаг should mдtсh centef
back of bodice ог ыоЕsе_
Fоf sеt-iп sleexes: At notch€ý of атmhоlе and
зlеечеs along the ýеаm ]ine. If they cannot Ье
matched at both back and tтont, match at the ffont.
( Dia!]falп d,.)
For Ипоfuо slee|$: At the notch on the ýhouldeT
Лоf s/.rTrsr At сепtет seams and when роsýiЫе, at
side ýеаmý. But а plaid can Ье matched the entire
length of а skirt Seam опlу whеп the two seam
lines to Ье ioined ме identical in dеgIее of ýlant,
fо, dт€ýýas., The futi tenфh ol centeI flont and
То Match Uпа,еп РIа,idБ
Ал "uneven" plaid is not the same оп both sid€ý
oJ thё outstanding Ьаr, Itmay Ье чпечеп acro$ the
fabtc, ot епgthuisе, оI in both dircctioný.
ll the рlдid jý чпеуеп опL! lenglhш;be, lhеге is no
ртоЬlеm in balancing it on both sides of the
€епtеr. If itiý uneven oйl?octoýs the fabric, itmay
Ье ba]anced both sid€s of centel Ьу having а
centel орепiпg ог Ьу ýeaming the eenters.
ar-' ,
пrДо
whеп uпечеп in Dоrй direcrions, howeveT, it muýt
Ье а woven plaid with по light and wTong ýide
if it iB to Ье balanced, and it mnýt Ье seamed от
have ап opening at the ceTtef, То cut th,is tape
pJard, раttегп pieceý аге taid оп а single thicknesý
ot ГаЬriс. AfteI cutting thp ffrst pie(e. do по1
rеmоче the pattern but lay the cutpiece оп а second
аrеа sо the ptaids Tunning lengthwis€ апd стоýý-
wise mаl.th thosp ог thс ffгst picce, аý shoM iл
didgror, а. Тhеп cut the ýecond piece, Since the
fabIic Ьаý no right or wTong Side, опе of the two
matching pieces is then tufned оч€т wbeD
joined to the othel
t
То C1!l Pla , аhеrrм
Ъ cut plaid сhечгопs, thеrе must Ье а bias ýeam
whеIе the chevron iý to appeaL ( Diagram t.)
ТЬ cut chevrcns fTom ап чпечёп plaid, the fabIic
must Ье identical оп both sides. cut the fаьriс in
halJ crosswiýe. Place опе piece oveт the оthег with
thesame sidefacing upon both рiёсеý {огсuttiпg.
Тhе pieces аrе then sewed with а "Tight" side
against а "wfong" ýide _ pelmiýsible since both
sides дrё identical.
31

stripes
horr to cut
As with plaids, theтe are both even and uпечёп
StTip€s. No рюЬIеmý exist in cuttinsi ечеп ýtripes;
mеrеlу obsвrve the олdiDаrу рrесаutiопs оf laying
matching parts оп the Eame stIipe; avoid placing
daтtý on the moýt поtiсеаЬlе stripe; and pin the
two lауеrs oJ Jabric togethel a.long the Btripe lines
so they wiil not Shift in cutting.
Clltting Uпе1, ell S tripe з
cut as опе-vау fаЬriсs, with tops ol pattern
pieces pointinsl in same direction.
For чпрорп l?лglhl,;s, s/пр.s., When there iЁ по
seam at the centeт о{ the bodice апd/ог ýkiгt, the
best аrтапgеmепt of stтipeý is Ltsually сопSidегеd
to Ье followin8: Tight аючпd thё figure.
chooýe thе BtTipe you rпant in the centeT of the
ггопt and ba.k, Тhеп uýё thе same ctripc гоr
the сепt€I of the ýlееч€ý.
Fof uпеl,еп сfоъsNоisе slfr?€ýl I,еt the stIipes
move down the bodice and skiгt in thei" natuni
Sequence, alld mаtсh thesleeve ýtтipesto thc bodice
зtIiреs at the поtсhеs.
Matching Stfipes iп Skift sеаmв
ДS in plaids, а Stlipe design сап Ье rnatched the
епtiге length of the skirt ýeam only when the two
Seam lineý ате identical in degTee of ýiant.
Cut ting S tripa С he|f опз
ТЬ cut eithel ёч€п от uneven stTipeE in сhечгоп
efiect, уоu may uýe а сгоssrdзе fold of the fаЬгiе,
Fог cutting even Stlipes, а lengthwise fold can
also Ье used if thefabIic iз Фide enough. Ptace the
ýide seams ot thе pattFrn on the tancthwice crain.
fчr fabrics *x,:,;l/,
howto cut 1]",{'
!'ur fаЬгiсý should Ье treated as "опе-wау" fаЬriсе /'
jn the same direclion ýо rbe hаirs will all ru0
i" -.д"*,1"",,i.,j );1 1/,..),,.,z,
If the fablic is чегч beavy, it will usually ье mоте
The fдzот ыаdе са
Ье mole eжily controlled Sо not sо many hails
о{ the fаьгiс will Ьё cut.
how to prasý
ll is nexl |о impoqsible to gel а fine, .hаrр sедm
line in lur fabrics Ьу ргес.iпg, So tr) t]ris:
l Plaee t}ie right side of the Jur fabIic qщJcl!_et
Мщd. ( IJ ve]ret Ьоа,Ц 19 ц!еуа!!ф!е-цýеýеIецаl
, thicknesses оf_tетIу towelý.)
.* 2 Рlас€ а cloth ovel the ýеаm and steam tightly
ithout lettinя the iIоп touch the t
Satiýfасtоrу tа !ц! Lt out wiЩ_е,ц,,g"_ЦЦЗs_ас
!щ Ls_!цirЦstеqd j]Цh
stretch fabrics
h0{ to cut
Iп pinning patteln to Jablic, use morclins thац
With non-Stletch matelials and Ье caTefui по]
_Ф
jtI9!9ц]l9д}ri."_]{!!l1рддцс
When cuttjng- do поt lifllh" jф4Сr9. Ц"
tabie, аllоwiпя it to stretch, Hold it down firm]у
зith the
З Then with а hervy object, such аý а tailoт'S ctappe|
оr eYen the head of а hammer. Dоuпd the Seam flat.
+ 4 catch-stitch the sеаm edges to the lаЬIiс. ],:J".
5- orrt!ЩgЬsiilrlЙa я г;" tq рiф up tht haifs
that have Ьееп caught in the s€аm oI maýhed down.
/--l ,, ,./,, / - l1.,/
lf ffnished еdяеs аfе being DTeSsed, Suсh as а fэсеd
"Blippy" tabrics7'ýj.i;, Т ;",Dr'PP'
'l'l',"uС 1a?j),,,?-,, ,,, а. !,а42M, ,ucket. use two velvet ьоаrdЁ or tuш опе end of
howt0cul 1-1'' 4*"' ' () the board oveT the faciлg. (Di&grй| g,) or же
FаЫiсý like Ny]on Jefjg, Ьr !Дlпе s;]} саn Ье tеIrу towelý both uпdег and оп t(lp of the edge,
exaýpefating when you аге pinning on tbe pattem.
неrе ате sоmе hints for lesýeninc the_ s]ipparie:
1 Pin together the ýelvages and the croýýwiýe ands.
Тhеп pin together at JI9quэ_чtЦ![vДs.-thе*]ц,о,,
Iауеrs oilabrjc. е, u2. Ьl<- ! /,r' .)
2 lJ you use а rеgчlаr cuttilg tаЫе, anchoт the.
рiппе{ fabTic to_ !h.e tаЦl9__rdjЬ_!дLог gaý_kiдs
thе ends, саrеJullу squaгing thё length
Lр'
,,,5
апd width.
If you have no table you rrish to tгеаt in this ,ау,
uýe youT table pad if you bave опе оr апсhоr the
fаЬгiс to а cutting boaId. оI trу placin8 а bed
sheet ovel the tab]e and ]a},ing the fabric о!еr that.
2i
/!-2,
? _ýta -tit.h ne(kilneý алd shочIоегS, II Iahic
rа!Fl:, otpr.a.l оr otherui(e finjýb Fdqрs ъеfота
rпаLiпя Тhеr jоiлiпя s€аБ,
-L-.-Т,- {"
"€orl"rq ,
!jчаl Фh jле itit h, поt lопяеt than ]5 to the

Ртёss with а tight hand and а пinimum of ýtеащ.
laminated
L9цlr,gtjgl9!Д!lДg]9з Рас!Цg о!Ц9д!9gl
]adiusl аftёг fittinE. lо Ье ýurе to mдkе ах
ýymbolý. The foam backirц will
fabrics
От Stiteh with а ffltе zigzag stitch thathаs "8:ive"
to it. Do поt line ааrmепts of stret h fabTic от it
will not stretch on the body as it is intended to do.
hOшto pross
j9аjц{Ь&цц9@ý_ijý!цt-!о-д.
howtOclrt
тhе thickness of the fabTic makes it difrcult to
t l,/
iбwът an d TTi-thе'n,ot] ; Dчshrля thе rrоп tenda nec{ýýaTJaltёrationý in the patt€Tn beJoTe cutting.
Place natten оп thе RrcHT siilё of the fдЬтiс
ýо the grain сап Ье Seen, And pins gо in mоfе
eaýily Jrоm the fabTic Side.
Use tаilог'ý tacks Jот maтkinя
поt bold
tmcing Фheet mArks.
to stIеtсh th€ matelial.
knitted fabrics
i;
hOшtOcrt
jnch {iIl ЬF catiýгactola, ]J,lo" i,lзр,, howe_v9E"
itch. ExneTiffёntl gоч rцаJ.-frп4.
аr 3 to,the iдch._Ytolke,hest.
stav-stitch ýhouldeTs and necklines.
Line slim skilts and dlеssеs with Ii }tweight
how t0 ýa
IIýа а ffne needle and about 10 ýtitches
to the inch. Expeтiment to ýее iJ уоч need
to Stitch thrоugh tisýue рареI.
Use matchina plain fabTic fol facingý.
when mаkiпg hems, Ье ýuге the stitches go
through thе entire fabTic аý they mау puli очt
оп]у thlough the foam.
ho|9to press
uзе а steam iгоп оr medium heat with а
Slaýh darts and pTess flat.
patteтn is to Ье jaid оп ýiпеilе thickness, cut оп this
line. Then ргеSв out the oIiginal creaýes,
сAUTIoN: Avoid using the oгi8inal fold dolrn fгопt
от Ьsсk от in any otheT поtiсеаЫе атеа, as it iS
dificult to рrеýs out comp]etety,
If the cut edges show а tendeney to rоl], pin the
edges together with pins quite ctose to each otheг.
In gепеIаl, knitted faьIicE Shoutd ъ€ handled in
,. mпсh tъе sаmе wav as stTetch fabTics, When
' cUliinc V,lоr n..P/. апсhот it as deвcrib€d fоr
;ii "slippy" fablics and make ýule yoltT shеашll "slippy" fablics and make ýule yoltT shеаш
illaтe Teally ýnaтp,
out for cuttinя. То otrset this, cIip thrcugh the
sheer fabrics
on most knitted fabrics, about 12 ýtitches tqt entire deдt! of th€ S€lvegeý eleIy few inches
jal"
),,ч"
фt)
1,
|;,I
лfдьiсý.
_USe а searв Ъiпd!п&оI ЦЬЬоI],ýlry,]д_узiФЦg
ýезgý oJ jrcт_ев, lэ z р ,, lMz_a 6" . .-
I{ sеаm edges иnd 1о rоII, catch-slilch 1hеm io
the garment a{teT prcýýing.
fo.m theTe will Ь
А1,;?.
Do not tuln а hеm edge; ýimply ýtitch around the
bottom апd catch-stitch the Iаw edge invisiЪly
to the galment, ог uýe а tailoI's hem. (See page
when wогkiпg оп Nуlоп ierbeg, it mау Ье
п€сеýsагу to loosen both чррег and towel tensions
of the s.siпр mа.hiпё, And Lhe Drеýýчге o.f tbe
presser foot ShoDld Ье lesaened.ý!i!qh ý_lqyll ang.
evenly and Ье suге the machjлe пееdlе_,=l .2
rB lше and sharp. '
/
n-z,p
"!-!л,1э2t)
how t0 счt
chitron, опе of the favoTite sheeтs, hаs а sеlчаsiе
lvoven ti8bteT than the reýt of the piece. FоI thiý
теаsоп it haý а tendency to "buckle" whеп laid
befoTe laying оп the pattejr_
If full gatheTed skirts of Shееr fabric ат€ ctlt оп
lhе,,rоs.Wiýеgгаiп iпsltildоf lheuýual lPnglbWisc //
grаiп. ýеаmF which would ýhow througb сап .//
oflen hр avoidpd_ /
tow to sew
Inýt€ad oJ using facings on necklines and
L,sleeveless аrmhоlев, usё патIоw bindings which
, аrе muсh tess conýpicuous.
то avoid noticeable ýеаms, stitch th€ sеаm asecond
time about Уs" from thё Beam line зtitching,
within the seam аllоwапсе. Тhеп tTim the sеаrп
ctoýe to the ý€сопd зtitching. Апоthег searn fiпish
fог shееI fabrics iý shown on page 92.
Double ryide hеrпý аге ал altIsctive sау lo frпish l
shееr Sklrls, Decide оп (he hёm Eidlh and leavc l
Isice lhal d.рth 1о lurп up. Тurп tb. rrem lbe | |
dFýirёd пчmЬег of incheý and lhen turп acain the/
/,, /
Еаmс depth, Tbiý mslез ihrее layeв of tАЫh ]I ' "
in the hеm аrеа апd яiчеs ttre eeect о+ а ьоrаеr. i / -,
;;,. ;
";,,:;' ъl*
"lZ,-;l"л,*T|,u . -l_r,^ .- n .,Lr-z r|,.rl-
Tf,J
33r'J._, .т*
thai аS
a'",v.'e--D

cutting уOчr fabric
select lhe cutting diаgгаm ýhоwп in youт
Simplicity Ртimеr JоI уоuI size pattern,
theviewyou ате makiпg, width ofJabIic, and
type of Jabric (whether or not it has пяр.)
МаIk it fог quick identiiicatiort,
When the ýаmе piece iý shown twic€ in the
diagram - опсе in solid liпе and once in а
bгoken line - the piece should Ье tumed очеI
Ьеfоге the sесопd cutting. О/ to leave the
pattem piece pinn€d to the fablic, you can
turn your mateтial other Side чр and ptace
the cut-out piece апd рiппеd pattem on
the rечешеd fдьriс.
it fabric iýto Ье cut ioшьlе, make suTe it is
folded with the пgйt зidе
'fl.srd€.
If patteln
is to Ье cut оп а srngl€ thickneýý, it should ье
laid on the liaht side of the gооdз.
шsеfчl cutting hints
when thеге iý а group oJ 9
singly.
l
t
I

th
lay tie patt€In 0п tie correct grain of the fabTic.
Whеп JаЬгiс is folded fог cutting, Ье ýurе
it is folded оп the StTaiaht grаiп, eitheT
l€nathwise оr сIоýSwiýе аý the cutting
diagтam directs.
The double-headed атrоwрriпtеd on the
patteIn muýt Ье laid оп the stгaight gTain.
Place the pattern so both ашоw heads
measure the sаmе distance flom the selvage,
benthandl. ýhears with tlades 5" t0 7" long
аrе best Jor cutting and eaýieýt to handle.
cut with tong, ffrm strokes, печег quite
closing the shеаIs. Do not lift faЫic fIom
the table: hold il-dow'lr with thenon_cutting
hand.
Do NoT cut outa pattern witb pinking
ýhears; they cut away too much of the sеаm
allowance. Save them foт finiýhing ýeams
and fol decoTative wогk,
cut elactly 0п the cltting linc. MaTginE latt away
аý you cut, This gives the corrcctamount
of *еаm а]lоwапсе,nd .яsе-
cut ШlТfi фе labric 8Iаiп. Аrюrrs printed оп
ýeam lines of Simplicity Patteтnв poiпtin
the diTection that is Фrй the gmin. Whеп no
агrоw арреg,гз, it makes по difiеrепс€ in
i{hich di.ection you cut.
.|t..ttý шrt ai. Thiý mаkеs then еаsi€r
to !€. and Ьp3 tbe ýеаm allowance intact.
hаче сOlлеlý t0 hе fumed
tIim off согпеr аý sооп
inýide the point.
when tuming.
Uhеп interfacingpieces
(eollaTE, счtrs, etc.),
as eut out, about Уа"
This eliminates bDlk
чrhеп piвces ale laid 0n а fold, ýuch аý а соuаI oI
,l bodice {rопt ог back, make а tiпу Snip oI
notch at both ends of the fold edge. This
maтks th€ centeт and mаkез it eaýieT to
mаtсh accuвtely to the piece to which it is to
ье ioined. Do the ýаmе whеп счttiпя
interfa.ingý. (зее о, above,)
whcn intorfacing is t0 Ь. cut from 0пr of tte
garmrnt patterп piecбs, Suchas acollar, tryto
place the pattem on the inteтfacing with the
sameзide upaý itwillbё when cutting the
gaTment mateтial. Тhеп leave thё раttёrп
pinned to the inteгfacing when it is plaeed
on the gаrmепt labric {оr cutting. ThuS,
whеп the pattem iý геmочеd. the unit iý
already aýsembted - the inteTJacing with
the piece оп which it iý to Ье used.
ti
:l,
I
I
sclvago
,l

mаrkiпg fabric for сопstrшсtiоп
Дll conýtruction ýymbols (ýее them on page
яаrmепt pieceý srе cut and bejore the patteTn
methods of mаrkiпg
drcssmakrr'ý traciпg р.ре| Gе2 page 25
i";;;f|;;,i.;; -'- {,_l. J,_,,,-",1,
_.r*rХiф4,1z.=,'
-;;,,э-r-)
l Gmefal ingtrlletioлý
lli Uýe а сопlrаstiпg eoloI bul light епоUgh so
llllt wilt not
"Иоw
tЬrоugh thin mаtегiаL
Твсе очеI Symbols with а tTacing wheel,
(See Equipment, раgе 3). o1uýe dull edge of
а tаЫе knife. Use а llrleт !gsцЦq.,!щk!цs
ýtraight lines, such as daтts. MaIk dotз
side against wrcпg side of fabтic.
tailor'ý tacftý
12) should
chalk апd
o""lz>
J-u,r-,q
a--t"-Z-.a)
Place Diný thтouch Dаt[егп and both fдЬгiс
tuy"ru on
"уrnьой
to ьо mаrуеа, о-!,+-'l' /'-,l'
Foltl рsttеш back ; mдrk alongside of piKs.
just enough рrеýsчI€ to make а light line,
Ма*;па doubl, lh;сkпрss.J Цlg h;-,/,t-a, I
рч( tгsс;пg paper Jsc. лд ппdеt lowPr феt чааi!ц L,ZЗ
vit} an х. Do not ЬеаI down toohaтd: uýe
of fabIic, Place апоthеrй ecela.ce iLоФп- Jаr..|-,2.|
ebpeen раttеrл and uрр".l"у." oi-tub.i",
arb Lg single thicbness ot flrbфc
Place tтacing рарет ],yith itý maTkina
Atl construction symbolý.
Епds of seam lines. (This gives an accurate
meaýuIementfol placing the sеаm guide оп
your machine. Lower needle into maтked
Аеаm lile апd ýet seam cuide againýt fsbTic
edeie.)
cuTvedýeam liп€ý, if stitchingan even seam
оп curveý is difrculi.
1
2
Тh€ point of а daTt wheTe stitching lines
meet. This makeý а viýiЫeguide to t}e endof
thё d,Tt whеп thё material fu folded fоr
ýtitching.
with long, unknotted double thread, take а
Бmаll stitch throuah patterl and both
fabric layeтs, leaving lопg end.
to mаrk side of
t0 mагl riФt side 0l fibTic
Symbols like buttonhole оr pocket locations
are needed оп the flgt' side of the fabric.
Fiтвt, mark оп the wrong side; then
baste-Btitch ovel these maгkings. От
hand-baste йth ffne needle if 1hё fabric mау
showmarks after stitching iý гёmочеd.
right fahric
з
4
5
piný
=с
/r
sерАгаtе fаЬгiс layerýl :)!р :.hreadg belweqn,a|a fli
lеачiпg tufts of thrеаd-'Ъоth fаЬriс pieceý/ /
l,a-!L,;'d j|+ 3
&..lr_ц
-a.!---L-
al"& o-J.> 2 /"аз*- "7
4- еr_.а4).2 /.ZЬ,-э Э-
r"rЩ,,;БJ,л+
)7-"-1-1--.

daЁs
Dartý ате uзe.l to help mould the gaIment fabтic to fit the body. Most darts mау Ье stitched frоm
point to wide end от wid. €пd to point, wbicheveT iý еаSiеr for you. But the point must tаpel to nothing;
theтe ýhould Ье no "bubble" at the end.
DaTtý ýhould Ье shaped Ьу pressing oveT а Tolrnded ýur{ace ýuch аý а tailoT's,b,em.
charted ь€low are the vaTious tyDeý of darts апd how to handle them.
dart type patterп symh0l шhеrе used
shaight
curred
а outvaтd ь inward
а
D.ёss воаiФ Front
тrпdетд.m of о,ё.ыопsе
ь
Iёakliпr
гл
вас]< Ne.kline
(Ф]ren th€rе iз no shочld€rdа.t)
dOцtlе loiпtEd
i
ll
l
l
l
l
l
l
,
li
i
l
l
l
l
Dreýseý without Bsistline
от {ith drоDрсd wai8tline
sпug]у Fiitea вlоu6€g
dart-tцck
I
а
t
L
ав

Simplicity sewing book - 1962

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