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Ramesside Egypt:
Jewlery
Purpose:
• Religious - amulets for protection of the living
- amulets for protection of the dead
- jewellery for statues of gods
• For adornment & to exhibit status & wealth
• Utilitarian reasons
Jewellery was made from the
metals:
• Gold – mined in Nubia & the eastern desert
• Silver – imported from Asia
• Electrum – a naturally occurring mix of gold
& silver
It was embellished with stones
of:
• Carnelian – from the eastern desert
• Turquoise – mined in the Sinai
• Lapis lazuli –imported from Afghanistan via
the Euphrates area
Also other stones such as:
• Garnets from Aswan & the western Sinai
• Green feldspar from the eastern desert
• Amethyst from Aswan & eastern desert
• Yellow, green & brown jaspers
• rock crystal
• obsidian & calcite
Religious Significance
• The gods’ bones were thought to be made of
silver
• Their flesh was of gold
• Carnelian was the colour of life blood
• Turquoise was the green of spring vegetation
• Lapis lazuli (often flecked with calcite, iron pyrites
or gold) was the blue of water & the holy sky
realms
Jewellery was worn by:
• Statues of gods – especially collars.
• Elite males & females – rings, bracelets,
anklets, collars, necklaces, earrings & fillets
• Poorer males & females (with imitation
stones)
• dancers
• children
Statues of the gods in temples
• Collars were changed as part of the daily ritual of
washing & clothing the statues of the gods
• Inventories of temple magazines indicate they
held impressive quantities of jewels
• Hathor was the goddess love & beauty as well as
the deserts (where many stones came from). She
was the patron of miners & prospectors & her
priestesses carried an elaborate menyet necklace
as a symbol of her cult
Religious Purposes – for the living
• Amulets were strung on linen cords or leather
thongs as charms to protect the wearer from
mysterious hostile forces, such as crocodiles,
snakes, scorpions or disease, accidents, flood,
storm & drought
• They were tied to wrists, ankles, necks, waists
and other vulnerable points
• small images of gods or animals put the wearer
under the protection of the deity
Amulets for the Living
• Wadjet eye or eye of Horus protected
against the evil eye
• Sa sign meant protection and was a general
defence against any hostile force
• tyet meant welfare
• small images of gods or animals
Wadjet eye
bracelet – it is
made of lapis
lazuli,
carnelian &
ivory
Amulets for the Dead
included in the bandages of
mummification
• ankh symbol represents ‘life’
• djed pillar represented the spine of Osiris
and ‘endurance’
• scarab beetle represented rebirth
For Pharaohs
• Jewellery showed their link to the gods –
gold (flesh) & silver (bones)
• It reflected their status & wealth
• They controlled all mining & trade
• Many of the jewellers/craftsmen worked
for pharaoh (the other employers were the
temple cults)
Ramesses III
wearing the
red crown of
Lower Egypt,
false beard,
bracelets,
armlets, collar,
an elaborate
belt and an
intricately
patterned
tunic.
Pendant of
Ramesses II as
the young sun
god at his
birth from a
lotus flower
(made in the
cloisonné
technique)
In the New Kingdom hinged bracelets with a retractable pin appear.
A pair of hinged bracelets of Ramessess II, featuring two ducks fashioned
from lapis lazuli & gold
For Adornment & Social Status
• Jewellery was worn by both males &
females
• For officials it was an indicator of wealth –
rich jewels were rewards of the Pharaoh
• People of lower status had jewellery made
of less valuable gemstones, coloured glass
or faience
Types of jewellery for adornment:
• Both males & females wore:
• pectorals
• collars
• fillets
• earrings (introduced by the Hyksos)
• ear studs (introduced in the Amarna period)
• bracelets & armlets
• anklets were less deep
• inscribed signet rings & swivelling or bezel scarab
rings
Wife of
Amenemopet (TT
148) from the time
of Ramesses III-V,
wearing bracelets,
armlets, collars &
hair ornament.
Faience floral necklace
Necklace of Queen Twosre
& ear-rings of her husband Seti II
Carnelian, amethyst
& garnet beads from
Buhen, tomb K13
Alternating
cylinder &
disk beads of
faience,
interspersed
with ball beads
of beryl &
multicoloured
glass
An undated New
Kingdom burial
excavated at
Saqqara by
Prof. N. Kanawati
in 2003
To exhibit status
• Rich jewels could only be displayed
as rewards of the king (he had a
monopoly on mining & trading)
• The ‘Gold of Honour’ was a collar of
gold disk beads & a set of bracelets
& armlets awarded for bravery or
loyalty
• ‘Gold Flies’ for perserverance in the
attack
• ‘Gold Lions’ for bravery
Gold flies
Flowers
• Wreaths, chaplets &
collars of fresh flowers
were worn
• Lotus buds were usually
tucked in the hair of
guests at feasts
• Collars of flower petals,
leaves, fruits & seeds
were sown onto papyrus
or strips of palm leaves
Floral necklaces – Tomb of
Tutankhamun
Utilitarian purposes
• heavy signet rings, the bezel
of which bore the king’s
cartouche were conferred on
those high officials who were
to act in the name of the
Pharaoh
• menyet necklaces & counter-
poises were carried by great
ladies or priestesses as
symbols of their devotion to
the cult of Hathor
Scarab
seal,
Steatite &
gold,
Mid
Dynasty
18 to 19
Tomb of
Roy (TT
255),
from the
time of
Ramesses
I & Seti I,
shows his
wife
carrying a
necklace
with
counterp
oise
Naked women such as dancers & musicians wore a girdle around their
waist
Children
• are shown with a sidelock
held by a hair-ring or clasp
• sometimes they had green
fish pendants called
nekhau attached to their
sidelocks as protection
against drowning
Prince Amen-hir-khopeshef, son
of Ramesses III
Fish amulet representing a Nile
fish (Synodontis batensoda)
Dynasty 12

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Ramesside jewellery 2

  • 2. Purpose: • Religious - amulets for protection of the living - amulets for protection of the dead - jewellery for statues of gods • For adornment & to exhibit status & wealth • Utilitarian reasons
  • 3. Jewellery was made from the metals: • Gold – mined in Nubia & the eastern desert • Silver – imported from Asia • Electrum – a naturally occurring mix of gold & silver
  • 4. It was embellished with stones of: • Carnelian – from the eastern desert • Turquoise – mined in the Sinai • Lapis lazuli –imported from Afghanistan via the Euphrates area
  • 5. Also other stones such as: • Garnets from Aswan & the western Sinai • Green feldspar from the eastern desert • Amethyst from Aswan & eastern desert • Yellow, green & brown jaspers • rock crystal • obsidian & calcite
  • 6. Religious Significance • The gods’ bones were thought to be made of silver • Their flesh was of gold • Carnelian was the colour of life blood • Turquoise was the green of spring vegetation • Lapis lazuli (often flecked with calcite, iron pyrites or gold) was the blue of water & the holy sky realms
  • 7. Jewellery was worn by: • Statues of gods – especially collars. • Elite males & females – rings, bracelets, anklets, collars, necklaces, earrings & fillets • Poorer males & females (with imitation stones) • dancers • children
  • 8. Statues of the gods in temples • Collars were changed as part of the daily ritual of washing & clothing the statues of the gods • Inventories of temple magazines indicate they held impressive quantities of jewels • Hathor was the goddess love & beauty as well as the deserts (where many stones came from). She was the patron of miners & prospectors & her priestesses carried an elaborate menyet necklace as a symbol of her cult
  • 9. Religious Purposes – for the living • Amulets were strung on linen cords or leather thongs as charms to protect the wearer from mysterious hostile forces, such as crocodiles, snakes, scorpions or disease, accidents, flood, storm & drought • They were tied to wrists, ankles, necks, waists and other vulnerable points • small images of gods or animals put the wearer under the protection of the deity
  • 10. Amulets for the Living • Wadjet eye or eye of Horus protected against the evil eye • Sa sign meant protection and was a general defence against any hostile force • tyet meant welfare • small images of gods or animals
  • 11. Wadjet eye bracelet – it is made of lapis lazuli, carnelian & ivory
  • 12. Amulets for the Dead included in the bandages of mummification • ankh symbol represents ‘life’ • djed pillar represented the spine of Osiris and ‘endurance’ • scarab beetle represented rebirth
  • 13.
  • 14. For Pharaohs • Jewellery showed their link to the gods – gold (flesh) & silver (bones) • It reflected their status & wealth • They controlled all mining & trade • Many of the jewellers/craftsmen worked for pharaoh (the other employers were the temple cults)
  • 15. Ramesses III wearing the red crown of Lower Egypt, false beard, bracelets, armlets, collar, an elaborate belt and an intricately patterned tunic.
  • 16. Pendant of Ramesses II as the young sun god at his birth from a lotus flower (made in the cloisonné technique)
  • 17. In the New Kingdom hinged bracelets with a retractable pin appear. A pair of hinged bracelets of Ramessess II, featuring two ducks fashioned from lapis lazuli & gold
  • 18. For Adornment & Social Status • Jewellery was worn by both males & females • For officials it was an indicator of wealth – rich jewels were rewards of the Pharaoh • People of lower status had jewellery made of less valuable gemstones, coloured glass or faience
  • 19. Types of jewellery for adornment: • Both males & females wore: • pectorals • collars • fillets • earrings (introduced by the Hyksos) • ear studs (introduced in the Amarna period) • bracelets & armlets • anklets were less deep • inscribed signet rings & swivelling or bezel scarab rings
  • 20. Wife of Amenemopet (TT 148) from the time of Ramesses III-V, wearing bracelets, armlets, collars & hair ornament.
  • 22. Necklace of Queen Twosre & ear-rings of her husband Seti II
  • 23. Carnelian, amethyst & garnet beads from Buhen, tomb K13
  • 24. Alternating cylinder & disk beads of faience, interspersed with ball beads of beryl & multicoloured glass
  • 25.
  • 26. An undated New Kingdom burial excavated at Saqqara by Prof. N. Kanawati in 2003
  • 27. To exhibit status • Rich jewels could only be displayed as rewards of the king (he had a monopoly on mining & trading) • The ‘Gold of Honour’ was a collar of gold disk beads & a set of bracelets & armlets awarded for bravery or loyalty • ‘Gold Flies’ for perserverance in the attack • ‘Gold Lions’ for bravery Gold flies
  • 28. Flowers • Wreaths, chaplets & collars of fresh flowers were worn • Lotus buds were usually tucked in the hair of guests at feasts • Collars of flower petals, leaves, fruits & seeds were sown onto papyrus or strips of palm leaves Floral necklaces – Tomb of Tutankhamun
  • 29. Utilitarian purposes • heavy signet rings, the bezel of which bore the king’s cartouche were conferred on those high officials who were to act in the name of the Pharaoh • menyet necklaces & counter- poises were carried by great ladies or priestesses as symbols of their devotion to the cult of Hathor Scarab seal, Steatite & gold, Mid Dynasty 18 to 19 Tomb of Roy (TT 255), from the time of Ramesses I & Seti I, shows his wife carrying a necklace with counterp oise
  • 30. Naked women such as dancers & musicians wore a girdle around their waist
  • 31. Children • are shown with a sidelock held by a hair-ring or clasp • sometimes they had green fish pendants called nekhau attached to their sidelocks as protection against drowning Prince Amen-hir-khopeshef, son of Ramesses III Fish amulet representing a Nile fish (Synodontis batensoda) Dynasty 12