Fashion History

Dezyne E’cole College
106/10 Civil Lines
Ajmer-305001, Raj
Tel. 0145-2624679
www.dezyneecole.com
This project report of Mrs. Monika Samtani student of B.Sc. In Fashion Technology 2nd Year, has been checked and has been graded as
Thanking you
Principal
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I 'am Monika Samtani, student of Fashion Design department of Design E’cole College. I would like to show my gratitude to
the mentors who had helped me to make this project successfully and for the encouragement for this project
I also thank Dezyne E’cole College for giving me this opportunity to make this technical project and looking for my insight
capability.

A Project On
Fashion Theory
Submitted To
Dezyne E’cole College,
Civil Line,
www.dezyneecole.com
By Monika Samtani
B.Sc Fashion Technology 2 Year

CONTENT
Prehistory (600CE)
Medieval Romance(600-1449)
Renaissance Splendor(1450-1624)
Baroque and Rococo(1625-1789)
From Revolution to freevolity(1790-1900)
La Bella Époque and jazz age(1901-1928)
From Glamour to utility(1929-1946)
Optimism and Youth(1947-1963)
Swinging Sixties to Glam Rock(1964-1979)
The Designer Decades(1980 onwards)

 Egyptian Clothing
 Roman Empire
 Greece Civilization
 Minoan Culture
 Byzantine Style
Prehistory 600CE

 The attire fashion and clothing is
exclusively human characteristic
and is a feature of most human
societies.
 Clothing and textiles in different
periods and ages reflect the
development of civilization and
technologies in different periods
of time at different places. The
most common textile in ancient
Egypt was flax.
 Men in ancient Egypt often wore
a loincloth (or schenti) which
was common in all classes;
Egyptian Clothing

 All clothes were almost always made of
linen which is made from flax.
 Growing flax was a job for men only.
 Half-ripe flax stems made the best thread.
 Flax stems were soaked for several days.
 The fibres were beaten until soft. .
 The fibres were twisted into strong thread.
 The weaving was done on a loom.
 White linen had to be washed a couple of
times. They washed it in the river or canal,
rinsed, then it was pounded on a stone.
After that it was bleached in the sun.
 They pressed the linen into grooves on a
wooden board to let it dry.
LINEN

 A triangular piece of cloth worn by commoners, nobilities and royalties.
 Slaves were only allowed to wear it after the formation of new kingdom.
LOINCLOTH

 A skirt which is pleated in front worn by nobilities
and royalties.
 Till knee level
 Till thigh level in the old kingdom. 3000 B.C. to
2000 B.C.
SCHENTI

 A rectangular piece of cloth with a hole in the centre
for the neck worn by pharaohs after conquering
Ceria.
 1500 B.C. to 750 B.C.
TUNIC

 Worn by women.
 Sheath or a tube dress with straps.
 2 or one strap going over the shoulder.
 Mid-calf or ankle length.
 Starched and pleated.
KALASIRIS

 Worn by women by the new kingdom.
 A round piece of cloth with a hole in the
centre for the neck and belted at the
waist.
CAPE

 Nemes: headwear initially made by leather
and then by linen worn by pharaoh and
nobilities.
 Khat: is also called as klaft worn by
commoners and nobilities, off white in colour.
 Servants and slaves did not wear nemes or
khat.
HEADGEAR

HEADGEAR
 Wore during the new kingdom.
 Made of leather or papyrus fibre.

 Kohl: eye liner made of galena ore
 to keep away the insects
 To keep away the evil eye
 To prevent inflammation and allergy
 Dust
 Rouge: made of ochre
 Eye shadow: made of malachite which
is red and green in colour
 Heena: nail paint and colouring their
hair
MAKEUP

 It was common for Ancient
Egyptians to be covered in jewellery;
however, the upper class’s wealth
allowed them to be more lavish, with
jewellery made from gold and silver,
among other items. Accessories
were often embellished with inlaid
precious and semi-precious stones
such as emeralds, pearls, and lapis
lazuli, to create intricate patterns
inspired from nature. Common
motifs included white lotuses, palm
leaves, and even animals that
represented the gods. Although the
jewellery used by the lower class
had similar motifs and designs, they
were made with cheaper substitute
materials.
JEWELRY

 Female Minoan dress
 Early in the culture, the loincloth was used by both sexes. The
women of Crete wore the garment more as an underskirt than
the men, by lengthening it. They are often illustrated in
statuettes with a large dagger fixed at the belt. The provision of
items intended to secure personal safety was undoubtedly one
of the characteristics of female clothing in the Neolithic
era[dubious – discuss], traces of the practice having been
found in the peat bogs of Denmark up to the Bronze Age.
 Dresses too were long and low-necked, like those of the 19th
century. They were so low that the bodice was open almost all
the way to the waist.
MINOAN CULTURE

MINOAN CULTURE
 Practically all men wore a loincloth. Unlike the Egyptians,
the shanti varied according to its cut and normally was
arranged as a short skirt or apron, ending in a point sticking
out similar to a tail. The fabric passed between the legs,
adjusted with a belt, and almost certainly, was decorated
with metal. It was worn by all men in society.
 In addition to Cretan styles, Cycladelic clothing was worn as
pants across the continent. A triangular front released the
top of the thighs. One could say it was clothing of an athletic
population, because of this and the fact that the chest
always was naked. It was sometimes covered with a cask,
probably ritualistically. However, long clothing was worn for
protection against bad weather and eventually a coat of
wool was used by the Greeks.

CLASSICAL GREECE
 The kind of clothing worn in ancient
Greece was loose and flowing and
hardly were the garments ever sewn
together
 The fabrics used were mainly linen or
wool
 Women also wore a veil with their
clothing whenever they stepped out of
the house
 In fact, the ancient Greek fashion was
quite modern in its outlook as far as
men were concerned to the extent that
male nudity was really not a big deal
in ancient Greece

 Was worn in the ancient Greece by
men as well as women
 This form was of clothing was of
clothing was quite popular in ancient
Greek fashion
 The chiton could be worn with a
himation or it could be worn without it
as well
 A belt was also worn with the chiton,
which was called the zoster
 The Doric chition consisted of two
pieces of cloth, which were
rectangular in shape, and was worn
long
 The Ionic chiton differed from the
Doric chiton in terms of the overfold.
The overfold was worn longer on the
Doric chiton.
CHITON

 When the himation was being worn in ancient
Greece, it represented a form of outdoor wear
 The himation is also an important garment of
ancient Greek fashion
 This was generally made from a rectangular
piece of wool with the use of lighter fabrics,
the himation was worn at any time of the day
 The himation was loose and flowing, thus, it
can be termed as a modern cloak—it was also
used as a form of drapery to be worn over the
chiton
 The himation can be compared to the Roman
toga, the only difference being that the
himation has less volume in the fabric
 When worn solo, the himation was known as
the achiton.
HIMATION

 Women often wore the peplos and these go back to the
period before 500 BC—this can be described as a
piece of woollen material and was styled as per the
height of the wearer
 The peplos consisted of a tubular shaped cloth—this
was folded from the inside out
 The top area of the tube usually gathered at the waist
and the bottom area extended till the ankles
 The cloth on the upper area was brought underneath
the left arm—this was secured with the help of tapes or
pins on the right shoulder
 The top layer of the cloth, which draped the waist often
gave the appearance of two pieces of cloth
 There were certain types of patterns that were used for
the peplos. Some of the common patterns included
checks, flowers, waves or even stripes. When women
wore the peplos, the arms were generally left bare.
When the fabric hung at the front area, folds were
generally formed and these were also fastened on the
shoulders.
PEPLOS

CHLAMYS
 The chlamys was also flowing in
its appearance and was mainly
worn by the soldiers in ancient
Greece.
 The chlamys was used as a cloak
and was pinned at the right
shoulder
 The chlamys was also worn with
other forms of clothing
 Generally, soldiers only used it as
a form of a cover
 This was worn pinned at the right
arm

 Jewelry did form a significant part of
ancient Greek fashion
 was discovered with the findings of
jewelry at the Greek sites which
proves that women in ancient
 Greece loved to wear all sorts of
jewellery with their flowing garments—
bracelets, earrings and necklaces
 Even men were not left behind as far
as ancient Greek fashion was
concerned. It is known that men wore
jewellery till the 4th century
JEWELRY

 Hairstyles in ancient Greece also changed over time
 In the early days of Greece, men normally wore their hair short and grew beards
 During the Hellenistic era, beards went out of style
 Long hair was typical for Greek women; only slave women would wear their hair short
 Women curled and braided their hair in early Greece
 Later the style was to tie their hair back or put it up into a bun.
HAIRSTYLES

The clothing of ancient Italy, like that of
ancient Greece, is well known from art,
literature & archaeology. In Ancient
Rome, boys after the age of sixteen
had their clothes burned as a sign of
growing up. Roman girls also wore
white until they were married to say
they were pure and virginal.
Roman Empire

TOGA
Probably the most significant item in the ancient Roman
wardrobe was the toga, a one-piece woolen garment that
draped loosely around the shoulders and down the body.
Togas could be wrapped in different ways, and they
became larger and more voluminous over the centuries.
Some innovations were purely fashionable. Because it was
not easy to wear a toga without tripping over it or trailing
drapery, some variations in wrapping served a practical
function. Other styles were required, for instance, for
covering the head during ceremonies.
Historians believe that originally the toga was worn by all
Romans during the combined centuries of the Roman
monarchy and its successor, the Roman Republic. Free
citizens were required to wear togas, because only slaves
and children wore tunics. By the 2nd century BCE,
however, it was worn over a tunic, and the tunic became
the basic item of dress for both men and women. Women
wore an outer garment known as a stola, which was a long
pleated dress similar to the Greek chitons.

Byzantine dress changed
considerely over the thousand years
of the empire, but was essentially
conservative. The byzantines liked
color and pattern, and made and
exported very richly patterned cloth,
especially byzantine silk, woven and
embroidered for the upper classes,
and resist-dyed and printed for the
lower. A different border or trimming
round edges was very common.
Taste for the middle and upper
classes followed the latest fashion at
the imperial court.
In the early stages of the byzantine
empire the traditional roman toga
was still used as very formal or
official dress.
Byzantine Style

 Age of Migration 600-1100.
Medieval Romance and Trade
 Courtly love and crusades- 1100-
1200
 Priests and the people- 1100-
1450
 The east in the west- 800- 1450

Age of Migration 600-1100.
After western roman empire collapsed, people started migrating to new areas, people needed warm,
water, repeating clothes in the cold climate, so wool was the main cloth used. Men and women wore
loose tunics, based on rectangular sewn together in different style and taught with belt. Mantle were
draped over tunics and had status enhancing. Linen shirts were wore as undergarment beneath
tunic.

Courtly Love Crusades 1100-1200
Fashion became increasingly
flam boy in the 12th century
romances and chivalry fashion
clothing became more fitted
seductively figure hugging silk
gowns, revealed embroidered
chemise beneath the laced
sides. Ordinary women wore
fitted tunic, more closely over
waist arms and hips. Garment
were still based on rectangular
cuts, but with lacing.
Garments were still based on
rectangular and triangular
fabrics cut, but with lacing to
crush straight shapes against
the curved figure
Accessories were long,
pointed, Pauline shoes and
long hair with trailing hems.

In medieval times the Mediterranean basin
was the most advanced Centre in the world
Of learning, Technology and trade .
Expensive textiles came from china along
the ancient Silk Road, the great trade route
running through
Central Asia. Wimple piece of cloth worn
over the head and around the face and
neck . A wimple would be worn under a veil
called a kerchief. Henin Hat conical hat with
long veil. Men’s hat sugar loaf hat was a
tallish conical hat resemble an inverted
flower pot. Surcoat and mantles are in
fashion during this time.
The East in the west- 800- 1450

Fashion became increasingly flam boy in the 12th century
romances and chivalry fashion clothing became more fitted
seductively figure hugging silk gowns, revealed embroidered
chemise beneath the laced sides. Ordinary women wore
fitted tunic, more closely over waist arms and hips.
Garment were still based on rectangular cuts, but with
lacing. Garments were still based on rectangular and
triangular fabrics cut, but with lacing to crush straight
shapes against the curved figure
Accessories were long, pointed, Pauline shoes and long hair
with trailing hems.
Priests and the people- 1100- 1450

Social Statement (1200-1300)
Clothing become voluminous in the 13th century and men’s and women’s garments followed the same
changes in shape. Tunic sleeves had tight lower arms, but more fabrics around the armhole, and the
Surcoat (sleeveless overtunic) became a wardrobe stable. Though cuts were simple and elegantly
draped, headwear became more complex. Women wore hairnets, or Wimples ( chin bands) and circlets
around the head and men wore small, round caps. The biggest development of the 14th century was
the move from flat, draped garments the beginning of tailoring chests looked looked larger both sexes
and made the use of padding colors contrast and party coloures came into fashion.
Fashion began in this age. Neckline became lower, trailing hemlines, pouline shoes. Tight sleeves,
hoods, belts, veils , gloves were more worn, houppelande trails on ground. The silhouette was long
with high waist the fashion to walk with belly slightly protruding and the hips thrust forwards. Dagged
edges, higher collar, use of peplum.

Renaissance Splendors(1450-1624)
This was the period when fashion finally
moved from draped clothing to fitted garments
and the art of tailoring came into its own.
Clothing now consisted of a greater number of
parts including detachable sleeves jerkins and
breeches of different lengths. The masculine
form was enhanced by the latest clothing, with
its wide shoulders, codpieces strong legs and
bellies.
The fashion split there were marked regional
difference in women’s dress. The medieval
standards one piece tunic moved towards
broad spectrum of fashion in cut and
construction. Hanging sleeves French gowns
sleeves, ruffs were used on the sleeves and
on neck.
Head dresses often emphasized a women’s
high smooth forehead . Many women
bleached their hair to a fashionable blonde.
Cylindrical hats of different lengths were
stylish in France, England and low countries.

Renaissance Splendors(1450-1624)

Buckles and straps evolved during this time the
Farthingales petticoats vanished and people move
toward softer silhouettes a stiffing was done in the dress
with the use of buckram. The bond bodice developed
which was as corsets and this was used for the upper
dress.
During this time the women’s bodice had a new
beginning that was the development of mantua's.
Mantuas was a garment that was open from a front and
gradually shape change with the use of hooped petticoat
and underskirts of canvas or linen with rings made of
whale bone or cane.
Baroque and Rococo(1625-1789)

From Revolution to freevolity(1790-1900)
Neo classicism 1790-1800
Fashion of 18th century reflected a time
of upheaval. It brought more informal
dress influenced by Revolutionary fervor
in France.
Wrapping gown, silk and painted chintz
cottons gave may to printed cottons and
plain cotton chemise dress.
High waist simple dress laced corsets
were worn over on top.
DELIGHTING IN THE DETAILS 1820-
1830
Piping of the dress
Splendor Jackets and beautiful hats
appears. Wide puffed sleeve emphasis
the narrow waist low décolletage the
bottom shape neck.
Off shoulder dress appeared.

Coco Channel
This time period focused on simplification of the dress.
The idea was “ less is more”.
After the war the popularity of elaborated hair piece and
dresses were reduced to a replace by energetic boyish
look “The Flapper”. Always on the move- either dancing
or racing around in the automobile the new style which
represent the youth fashion and fun.

Paul Poiret
Whose tubular dresses liberate women from
corset, was first Paris couturier of this century to
become trendsetter. The idolized actress Gabrielle
Réjane became Poiret’s first customer. The
Réjane with her white donkeys, a present from the
King of Portugal. She was like a magnet for
others.
Paul Poiret

From Glamour to utility(1929-1946)
Elsa Schiaparelli
This time period 1929-1946 use to have the designer Elsa Schiaparelli entering and during this
time very simple dress coats entered because this was the time of great depression. The main
feature that we see here is the dresses became longer at the hemlines to the floor length. And
the roaring twenties came to a halt.

Optimism and Youth(1947-1963)
Christian Dior
First collection COROLLE COLLECTION 1947
Christian Dior inspired with ROSE and
created the New Look with longer, fuller
skirts, smooth, rounded, sloping shoulders
and tiny fitted waist. All his designs were
resembled flowers petals and loops of figure
8.he used bones, bustier style bodice hip
padding in his designs, warp waist corset
and petticoats made his dress flare out from
waist giving a curvaceous look.
EFFECT OF WORLD WAR-2 ON FASHION
This time period had practically no fabric to
work with, no trimmings, no press coverage
and little food. Lack of imports from France
became a boon to America as they got a
time to develop their style.
Movie star Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline
wife of President.

Swinging Sixties to Glam Rock(1964-1979)
Yves Saint Laurent

Vivienne Westwood

THANK YOU
By Monika Samtani
B.Sc Fashion Technology 2 Year

Fashion History

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