This document discusses common fitting problems and remedies in garment construction. It identifies 12 issues that can arise including: mistakes in joining balance marks between pieces; stitching garments with cloth of inappropriate quality; coming up short on cloth length; making garments without a trial fitting; mistakes in pressing techniques; and improper use of lining and interlining materials that do not match the main fabric. The document emphasizes that taking care with details like balance marks, trial fittings, and pressing can help ensure garments are properly fitted and constructed without defects.

1. Republic of the Philippines
CAPIZ STATE UNIVERSITY
Fuentes Drive, Roxas City, Capiz, Philippines
Tel. No. (036) 6214-578 Fax No. (036) 6214-578
website: www.capsu.edu.ph email address: roxas@capsu.edu.ph
H.E. 211-Advanced Garments And Fashion Technology
EMILY B. CABIGON, EdD
Course Facilitator
MARIA S. DETABLAN
Reporter
FittingProblems
and its remedy

2. 7. Mistake in Joining the Balance Marks: If
the balance notches in the leg length are not joined
with side seams and length seams, crease will
certainly rotate. In the upper garments’ if shoulder,
lines, chest and waist lines are not met with balance
marks at front and back portions, the garment will
appear rotating. This will also appear unfitting and
loose.

4. 8. Stitching of a Garment not According to
the Quality of Cloth
That is making a pant or short by a thing
cloth is loose , the crease of pant shall not be
taking shape and customer shall feel the tailor
has not made a good pant. Making blouse by
coarse cloths. This mistake must not be done
by the tailor .

5. 9.The Cloth- length Coming Short:
At times customer purchases less cloth due to
money problems or otherwise ,which poses a great a
great problem to the tailor. For making a garment
out of a fewer doth he has to do a long mathematics,
and sometimes directions are also required be
changed. In such cases many times garment remains
faulty.

6. 10.Making a Garment without Trial:
If at the half finish of a garment, a proper trial is taken,
the garment shall certainly be stitched with full confidence ,
as there shall remain fewer chances of unstitching/ the
garment after half finish trial. If made without trial , its shape
, beauty and finishing /all the three are shall be affected.
Therefore trial is must before completing the garment. In
cases of abnormal structures it is must to take all the three
trials.

8. 11.Mistake in pressing:
While pressing a garment in stitching , a slightly
mistake cause a big disturbance to the shape of the
garment, and if the pressing is done with due care,
wrong shapes may also be corrected many times. It
has been said.”Pressing is an art which given beauty ,
clarity and fitness too. Therefore pressing must be
done carefully.

9. Pressing (Left) Not Pressing (Right)

10. THREE TYPES OF PRESSING
1. PRESS FLAT
2. The fist step melds the stitch
stitching to the fabric, so the sea the seam is
less obtrusive.

11. 2. PRESS OPEN
The second steps flattens the seam. Make sure to press from both sides of
the fabric for a truly flat seam.

12. Use your thumbnail or a seam
creaser to open the seam.

13. PRESS OPEN

14. 3. PRESS TO ONE SIDE
The step is optional, depending of what you doing with the seam.

15. PRESSING FAULTS
WHITE MARKS INDICATES
GLAZING

16. POOR PRESSING

17. 12.Use of lining and Interlining :Lining and
interlining have been given on the main fabrics
before shrinking the fabrics .Or it may have been
given so sagging or so tight that it takes a loose or
creasing shape in the original side of the garment .Or
the qualities of both fabrics are not matching
.Original cloth is silk and the lining is khaddar or
cotton. In such cases also original cloth shall not
appear nice

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