pattern making, stitching, cutting procedure in Textile engineering , Pattern making related to garment defects include -A difference in measurement of a garment part from othersMissing pattern partsGrainlie Pattern not aligned with respect to fabric grainPatterns not facing in the correct direction on napped fabrics Poor line definition leading to inaccurate cuttingSkimpy markingWrong Check BoxingWrong Gradation of Sizes Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include the correct number of parts. Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped fabrics. Not all patterns facing in same direction (either way) on a one-way fabric. Solution: atterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain. Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting

1. Pattern Making

2. What is Pattern
Making?
Pattern making is the process of creating a
blueprint of your garment. A pattern is used as
a template to cut out fabric that matches the
required specifications to sew a garment.

3. Defects in Pattern Making
Pattern making related to garment defects include -
A difference in measurement of a garment part from others
Missing pattern parts
Grainlie
Pattern not aligned with respect to fabric grain
Patterns not facing in the correct direction on napped fabrics Poor line
definition leading to inaccurate cutting
Skimpy marking
Wrong Check Boxing
Wrong Gradation of Sizes

4. Missing Pattern Parts
Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker
did not include the correct number of parts.
Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly
labeled, resulting in a marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not
facing in correct direction on napped fabrics. Not all patterns
facing in same direction (either way) on a one-way fabric.
Solution:

5. Grainline
• atterns not aligned with respect to the
fabric grain. Poor line definition (e.g. too
thick chalk; indistinctly printed line,
perforated lay not powdered) leading to
inaccurate cutting

6. Skimpy marking
• Skimpy marking, caused by either the
marker did not use the outside edge of
the pattern; or the pattern was moved or
swung after partial marking to squeeze
the pattern into a smaller space for
economizing the fabric.

7. Absence of
Notches and
drill
Wrong check boxing, i.e.
checks are not showing a
full or partial box across
the seam.
Notches and drill marks
omitted, indistinct or
misplaced.

8. Wrong gradation
of sizes
Wrong gradation of sizes,
difference in measurement of a
garment part from other, for
example- sleeves of XL size but
body of L size

9. Marker Making
Marker making is a critical step
in the garment manufacturing
process where patterns are
arranged on a marker paper to
optimize fabric usage and
minimize waste.

10. Defects in Marker Making
Defects in marker making can result in significant production
losses, leading to increased costs and delays in delivering
finished goods to customers.

11. Poor pattern placement:
Incorrect placement of patterns on the marker paper
can result in fabric waste, which can increase
production costs.

12. Inefficient marker utilization:
An inefficient marker layout can result in a higher fabric
consumption, which leads to increased material costs and higher
waste.
When patterns overlap, it can cause inaccuracies
during the cutting process, leading to
irregularities in the finished garment.
Overlapping patterns

13. Incorrect seam allowances:
Incorrect seam allowances can cause distortion in the garment
and can make the garment difficult to sew.
Incorrect notches and drill holes:
Notches and drill holes are used to match patterns and ensure
accuracy during sewing. If these are placed incorrectly, it can
lead to inaccurate alignment of garment pieces, leading to fitting
issues in the finished garment

14. Solution
To minimize defects in marker making, it is essential to use
precise measuring and cutting tools and ensure accuracy in
pattern placement, marker utilization, and seam allowances.
Employing experienced and trained personnel to carry out the
marker making process can also reduce the likelihood of defects

15. Spreading
spreading refers to the process of laying out fabric in
preparation for cutting and sewing. Spreading is the
process of unwinding large rolls of fabric into long,
wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a
garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated
by the number of garments desired and the fabric
thickness. Spreading can be done by hand or
machine.

16. Defects in spreading
Defects in spreading can cause a variety of issues in the finished
garment, including incorrect sizing, fabric distortion, and uneven
seams.

17. Overlapping:
When fabric layers are not spread out evenly, they can overlap
and cause uneven cutting, resulting in incorrectly sized pieces.

18. Shifting:
If the fabric layers are not held down securely, they can shift
during cutting, causing distortion and uneven seams.

19. Tension:
If the tension is not consistent when spreading the fabric, it can
cause stretching or puckering in the finished garment.

20. Skewing:
If the fabric is not laid out straight during spreading, it can cause
the finished garment to be uneven or distorted.

21. Pattern alignment:
If the pattern is not aligned correctly during spreading, it can
result in uneven stripes or patterns in the finished garment.

22. Solution of Spreading
To prevent defects in spreading, it is important to use proper
equipment and techniques, such as using weights or pins to hold
the fabric in place, ensuring consistent tension, and checking
pattern alignment. Additionally, regular quality control checks can
help catch any defects early on and prevent them from affecting a
large number of garments.

23. Cutting
Cutting is separating of the garment into its components and in a general form, it is
the production process of separating (sectioning, curving, severing) a spread into
garment parts that are the precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a
marker.

24. Defects in Cutting
Defects in the cutting process of the garment industry can cause
various problems in the finished product, such as sizing issues,
incorrect fitting, and compromised quality.

25. Uneven cutting:
This happens when the fabric is not cut evenly resulting in
uneven edges, which can cause sizing issues.

26. Incorrect notching:
Notching is the process of cutting small triangles into the seam
allowance at the point where two pieces of fabric are to be joined.
Incorrect notching can cause a mismatch in the seam and cause
fitting issues.

27. Misaligned fabric layers:
Misaligned fabric layers can result in unevenness, which can lead
to sizing issues and other quality problems.

28. Pattern distortion:
Pattern distortion can occur when the fabric is not laid out
properly, causing the pattern to be distorted, and the finished
garment to look different than intended

29. Inaccurate cutting:
Inaccurate cutting can result in the wrong size or shape of the
garment, causing fitting issues.

30. Solution
To prevent defects in the cutting process, it is important to ensure
that the fabric is laid out correctly, the cutting machine is
calibrated correctly, and the cutting operator is properly trained.
Inspection of the fabric before cutting and the finished garment
after sewing can also help identify defects and prevent them from
happening in the future.

31. Sewing
Sewing is the process of joining
two or more pieces of fabric
together using stitches made
with a needle and thread. In the
garment industry, sewing is a
crucial step in the production of
clothing and other textile
products.

32. Defects in Sewing
Defects in the sewing garment industry refer to any deviations
from the expected or desired quality standards in the final
product.

33. Uneven Stitching
The stitch does not form in a straight and
regular line. Some stitches remain
displaced on the seam line. The irregular
stitch can be due: Poor thread quality.

34. Seam Slippage
Seam slippage is a sewing defect that
occurs when the threads of a seam
separate or pull apart under stress,
causing the fabric to come apart at the
seams. The seam slippage can occur
either parallel to the seam or
perpendicular to it, and it can happen
on any type of seam, including flat-
felled, French.

35. Button Attached loosely
When a button is attached loosely, it
means that the button is not securely
fastened or tightly affixed to its
corresponding buttonhole or attachment
point. This can cause the button to move
around or even fall off, which can be
inconvenient or unsightly.
To prevent a button from becoming
attached loosely, it is important to ensure
that it is sewn on securely with the
appropriate type of thread and stitching
technique.

36. Needle cut
Needle cut is a sewing defect that occurs when the fabric
is cut or pierced by the sewing machine needle during the
stitching process. This can cause the fabric to become
damaged or weakened, and may result in a visible hole or
mark on the fabric.
To prevent needle cut, it is important to use the correct
type and size of needle for the fabric being sewn, and to
change the needle regularly to ensure that it is sharp and
in good condition

37. Loose thread tension
Loose thread tension is a common
sewing defect that occurs when the
thread is not pulled tightly enough
through the fabric during the stitching
process. This can cause the stitches to
be loose or uneven, and can result in
the fabric becoming damaged or
frayed.
Adjusting the tension dial or re-
threading the machine may also help
correct loose thread tension.