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Idpms design development in sisal 2006
1.
2. DESIGN DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP
IN
SISAL CRAFT
16 th to 30th January 2006
at
Kuderu, Chamarajnagar Dist.
Sponsered by:
The office of Development Commissioner (Handicrafts)
Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India,
West Block No.7, R.K.Puram,
New Delhi 110 066
Conducted by:
IDPMS
440, 6th Cross, 7th Block,
Jayanagar West,
Bangalore 560 082
3. CONTENTS
1. Introduction 1
2. Inauguration 2
3. About IDPMS 3
4. Sisal Fibre 5
5. Approach and Design intrevention 6
5. Design Workshop 8
6. The workshop 12
7. Products Developed 14
8. Participants 26
9. Conclusion 30
10. Recomendations 29
11. About Designer 31
12. Acknowledgements. 34
4. INTRODUCTION :
This is the fourth design workshop for the artisans in this
area and there has been enough products made using the
traditional way and the skills in the traditional way.This
time the effort has been to take the artisans with varied
skills and produce some designs that would interest the
artisans as well as the market.
In the previous workshops ,efforts are made to use the
material using same technique of braiding, and revolving
around the same products.The artisans also ask for change,
and it has been considered for this workshop.
The artisans in this workshop have come from various skill
background, apart from the usual sisal braids and ropes ,
they also work with nylon and other fancy material, for
making bags and show peices.
The Products developed during the last Design development workshop
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5. INAUGURATION :
The inaugural function was organised in the Kuderu Jr. College
premises, Kuderu Chamarajnagar Dist, on 16th
Jan 2006, at
11:30 am. The following were the people present at the
opening function;
Mr. Ramakrishna suggested
that the participants should
learn new skills and come up
with new products. He pointed
out the support provided the
Government to the artisans and
that People contribute to the
economic growth of the region.
Mr. Seshaprasad spoke to the
participants about the purpose
of the design development
workshop. He insisted that the
artisan group should take
advantage of the opportunity
provided to them and work hard
to make good products that
they can sell well.
Mr. Shekar Singh spoke to the
artisans and also advised them
to work hard in these fifteen
days and reap the benefits
later.
Mr. Shekar Singh, MNSEC, Mysore, Sri Ramakrishna, Principal,
Jr. College Kuderu,Sri Vijay Kumar, Vice principal , Jr. college
Kuderu,Mr. Seshaprasad, Cluster manager IDPMS,Ms.
Pushpalatha , IDPMS, Chamarajanagar and Designer Mr.
Rajshekhar Narayan.
The inaugural function
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6. ABOUT IDPMS:
IDPMS which truly means Initiatives for Development through
Participation of Marginalized Sections, is committed to the
economic growth of the rural poor.
IDPMS started functioning in 1988, and it as jointly
established by the Govt. Of Karnataka and the Govt. of
Netherlands. At the time it was known as Indo Dutch Project
Management Society. IDPMS worked with various
development projects situated in Karnataka, and working
through these projects, the organization gained experience
and considerable knowledge and helped into its
transformation into a resource organization. The array of
knowledge includes issues for sustainable livelihood, Women
empowerment, Information systems, Environment and
conservation.
IDPMS has been instrumental in formation of Self help groups
for the past 15 years. Mysore, Chamarajnagar, Bellary and
Bidar, Havery and Gadag districts have been covered under
the operations.
5300 women involved in over 335 Self Help Groups has been
formed in the guidance of IDPMS and presently more than
200 artisans in the sisal fiber craft , in and around Kuderumole
in Chamarajanagar Dist, have been covered under this
umbrella.
The current activities of IDPMS are:
• Skill trainings and Design development activities in
the field of Handicrafts
• Training programme on Micro enterprise development,
PRA, Personality Development etc,
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7. • Guidance to Micro Enterprise,
• Formation of SHG’s and their successful operations,
• Strengthening of the local support agencies ;Gram
panchayat, ngo’s etc.
• Networking of SHG’s,
• Establishing access to formal credit organizations,
• Training and orientation of banking Personnel.
• Market related services; linkages, up scaling of
enterprises operations,
• Gender sensitization programme,
• Technology Development and Data Bank Services,
• Income generation activities in craft areas, and other
activities.
• Monitoring, Evaluation and Documentation,
• Counciling for enterprise activities.
Apart from this IDPMS has started an initiative for marketing
called “AARAMBH” that is begining of the collective efforts
for marketing of the produce of the rural artisan. Exhibitionsl
are conducted under this initiative and it has been a good
support for the producer groups.
Some of the products made by the craft groups
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8. ABOUT SISAL FIBRE:
The Portuguese introduced agave in India in the 15th
century.
They are completely naturalized throughout the country.
Sisal is grown in widely in India. It is small greenish gray
hedge plant. The leaves have a thorn at the tip and grows
up to a height of4-5 feet. These leaves yield valuable fibre.
Sisal is locally called as katthale & Bhoothale its Botanical
name is Agave sisalana and it is locally available in
Chamarajnagar dist.
Sisal fibre is a large genius of short stemmed, woody plants
bearing a rosette of long, erect, pointed, fleshy leaves.
About 275 spieces are distributed in tropical regions.The
propagation happens by removing and re-rooting the suckers.
Sisal fibre is Avery strong, Lustrous natural fibre and can
take wear and tear very well. Sisal is the favorite world wide
for floor coverings it is the most preferred natural fibre due
to its clean smooth& shiny surface texture The most known
application of sisal is ropes for local use.
Sisal is being extracted in
Ananthpur (AP), Utharanchal, seoni
(MP), Gokak (Karnataka) &
Kanyakumari (TN). Sisal is
commonly used for marine ropes.
cordage and twines.It’s also used
for making hub cleaning fancy
brushes used in bicycles.
Sisal fibre is available locally for
Rs 15-25 per kg. depending upon
the season and the market
requirements.
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9. DESIGN INTERVENTION:
The Design intervention for this group of artisans was
planned with the past experience and the scenario in the
Sisal sector. All the groups can only think of braided products,
therefore to bring about some change, it was decided that
we would work with other techniques where less fibre is
consumed and more value is brought in to the product.
With the existing skill levels, the initial efforts were to
introduce the concept of fineness, use of spinning skills to
produce finer yarns with sisal fiber.
The products should mainly be for the local markets and
exhibitions countrywide.
Various techniques like
weaving, coiling and stitching
can be put together in order to
get a novelty.
The use of the available
technology for spinning of sisal,
and different method of
producing yarns would add more
value to the end products.
The techniques like layering,
stitching and using the fibre
texture to most appealing uses
, use of good colour
combinations and new lifestyle
products would be the direction
for new products.
6
10. The artisans are having a skill background of rope making
therefore can produce a variety of different ropes and cords
that make the raw material of a range of fine and intricate
products.
The demand for sisal fiber
products is ever growing in our
county and it would be best
to be working on the kind of
Products that move fast and
are required in good volumes.
The blend of Sisal with other materials like Banana bark ,
which is abundant in the neighborhood, bamboo, Plastic
rope which is common packing material, and cotton yarns.
All such explorations are also a part of this workshop.
7
Workshop in progress
11. THE WORKSHOP:
In the Workshop various
techniques were used and many
of them yeilded good results;
Fine Yarn making:
Using the knotted fibre in multiple
ply a fine yarn can be made by
using a rope spinner . This yarn
has the strength and finish for use
in high value products like woven
material, floor and other interior
woven fabrics.
Fibre Stitching:
Using the fibre waste, the fibres
are layed on a news paper sheet ,
evenly spread , covered with
another paper and then stitched
over, with the help of sewing
machine. This makes a good
surface useful for many varied
applications.
Fibre knotting :
This is the technique of getting a
thin continuous long length by
knotting the fibres together using
a weavers knot. The continuous
long length then can be used for
producing a fine yarn that can later
be used for weaving, knitting or
any such applications
8
12. Fibre forms:
As the name suggests, we took
a balloon and over it wrapped
the fibre and pasted with binding
resin. This gave a perfect shape
and form, and this technique
was extended in getting other
shapes also. Using plastic
vessels , plastic sheet and resin,
creating various forms that can
be stable , and also building
shapes around frames. This
technique was extremely
successful as the production is
of high value and cost is low.
Crochet:
Crochet using the dyed sisal
fibre to form laces and motifs
for making bags and mats and
other utility items , crochet on
the wooden frames were done.
This technique seemed to work
very well and produced good
results.
The traditional technique of
making rope by hand twisting
was also used in the workshop.
The raw material of the bags and
baskets was made by this
technique only.
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13. Dyeing :
Using the direct dyes six
shades were produced for the
products and these shades
were developed according to
the colour trends. The natural
palette has been the basis of
the shades and there are deep
earth colours along with some
mineral accents.
Basket weaving :
The technique of using frames
for weaving stable forms , was
tried out and found working
very well, specially with the
fine yarns.
Paper backing:
This is tried out to provide
some stability to the fibre
layers that are stitched to
make bags and lamps. Firstly
some paper pulp is taken in a
big tub and then it is poured
over a readily stitched layer,
the resulting deposition of
fibre. This is dried and is ready
for use.
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14. Square frames and round frames
are taken and using the fine
technique of ply-twist-weave , a
very good finish is achieved.
Though time taking, this
technique is good for making a
very durable, strong and finely
finished form.
Embroidery:
Embroidery with sisal fibre on the
non woven , stitched fibre layer,
with fine rope for use in bags and
accessories.
Loom Weaving:
Using the small loom, and four
shafts, weaving was done on
plastic warp , crating an
interesting fabric for bags and
mats. Further using sisal yarn
produced on Medilary Charkha ,
and Banana bark rope, sisal and
other yarns, Interesting fabrics
were woven for use in bags,
lamps and other interior
applications.
11
30. PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP:
Sakamma,Basavarajamma,Chandramma,Chikmahadevamma
and Mahadevamma
Shivamma, Nagamma, Pathamma, S Madamma and
Basamma
Sidhamma, Puttabasamma, Pushpamba, Sheela and
Pavitra
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31. PARTICIPANTS OF THE WORKSHOP:
Putamma, Sakamma,Manjula,Sasirekha and Shivamma
Shivamma, Dodamma, Sanamma, Chanramma and
Rajamma
Latha, Bramharamba,Kantaveni,Susila and Siddhamma
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32. 1. The artisans are from the background of rope making,
and therefore it would be more appropriate to develop
and refine the skills of spinning, fine twine making for
these artisans.
2. The demand for hand spun twines is good in the
domestic and the export market; therefore it would
be good if twines and yarns could be the end products.
3. The medilary charkha is quite useful in twine and fine
cord making, and all the artisans should be trained on
it.
4. Sisal fibre lends itself very well to weaving and basic
floor covering structures should be developed along
with the fabrics for accessories on simple looms.
5. The skill development programmes conducted should
be focused and the products from the workshop should
be taken to be taught to the artisans.
6. Some products from the design workshop should be
selected for bulk production and artisans should be
advised to produce a stock of the designs at least 24
pieces each design. This would ensure that the
products are tested in the market and the groups
have sufficient stock of products whenever any fair is
there.
7. There needs to be continual market support programme
that helps the artisans to produce what market needs
and have a continuous flow of work.
Recommendations:
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33. CONCLUSION :
As it happens every time, the end of the workshop time; all
the participants felt that there should have been more time
with them.
Many new products and techniques were evolved. The new
possibilites with the fibre and getting away from the
traditional conversion technique of braiding; brought in
more hopes.
The participants were eager to do more designs and were
looking forward to taking orders and taking up production
for the designs done during the workshop. Some of the
participants were wanting to learn the basic yarn preparation
and dyeing so that the dependecy for the prepared raw
material is not there for them.
Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan (Consultant Designer), Mr.
Seshaprasad, cluster manager, IDPMS, MS. Pushpalatha, ,
addressed the participants and encouraged them on their
efforts.
On the whole , the workshop was a success once again and
has brought in new possibilities in Sisal craft. It is indeed
the begininng ...
The concluding day Participant’s Interaction
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34. ABOUT THE DESIGNER :
RAJSHEKHAR NARAYAN
87/133, Govindappa road, Basavanagudi .
Bangalore 560 004, Karnataka
E-Mail : rsnarayan@vsnl.com
Telephone : 080 51203950
Mobile 9448119950
Working with design; especially with woven textiles &
handicrafts,. likes to work with material and surface
textures for the woven fabrics, design and product
development in Handicrafts, a special interest in visual
merchandising, documentation, digital cataloging,
networking and market development
EMPLOYMENT HISTORY
National Institute of Design Bangalore
Coordinator (1998 - 2001)
Responsible for managing the office, identifying the problem areas in the
region ; proposing and conducting design development workshops and
training programmes, working with the handicraft sector and leading the
craft design activities, developing new contacts, skill and product
development workshops, and business for design consultancy
Silktex Ltd. Bangalore
Design Manager (1997 - 1998)
Responsible for conceptualising collections of furnishings and dress
materials, overall management and coordination of design studio.
Supervision of sampling on Dobby and Jacquard looms, new developments,
customer needs and day to day production requirements.
JJSpectrum Silks Limited Calcutta
Design Manager (1996 - 1997)
Responsible for development of new design collections, standardising woven
qualities, coordination and management of the design studio, supervising
sampling, Market and trend analysis for the silk furnishings and dress
material market.
JJ Exporters Ltd. Calcutta
Chief Designer (1993 - 1996)
Responsible for conceptualising design collections of silk dress materials,
overall coordination of developments.
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35. Orion Corporation Bangalore
Coordinator sourcing and development (1992 - 1993)
Smilee Fashions Bangalore
Designer (1991 - 1992)
In charge of design and development of dress material using natural
dyes andHand block printing and indigenous craftsmanship
EDUCATION
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF DESIGN, Ahmedabad
Post Graduate Diploma in Textile Design 1991
National Institute of Design is Asia’s one of the premier institute for
design education. The three year post graduate course included surface
design, design and techniques of woven and knitted fabrics, craft
documentation and design, ornamentation techniques, computer aided
design, photography, graphic design, practical experience through industrial
placements formed an integral part of the diploma.
Indian Institute of Handloom Technology Varanasi
Diploma in Handloom Technology 1988
Course curriculum included technology of weaving, dyeing, printing and
finishing. Practical experience on Handloom, powerloom, dyeing and
printing was integral part of the course.
Syed Burhanuddin silver jublee Quadaria College,
Burhanpur
Bachelor of Science 1985 (two years)
The two-year course had physics, chemistry and Mathematics as the
major Subjects and English as first language.
SKILLS
Weaving, jacquard design, Jacquard weaving, print designs, furnishing
design, made-ups design, silk fabrics design, sourcing of fabrics, sample
presentation (header, folders, display etc.), visual Merchandising, sample
photography, hand and machine embroidery, interior space design,
handicraft design, curriculum for skill and design workshops, Documentation
and teaching.Working Knowledge of SOPHIS and NEDGRAPHICS (weaving
software),PageMaker, Photoshop, Coral Draw, Photo impact, MS office,
Dreamweaver and Flash for graphics, communication and product design.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER :
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36. ABOUT THE DESIGNER :
Since year 2001 various handicraft design development projects have
been undertaken :
• Survey of Natural Fibers in Kerala and Tamilnadu; an intensive planned
survey in the two states, a study in the Philippines and a exhaustive
documentation
• Design and development of Sisal Fiber products; for IDPMS working
with the craft groups in Mysore and Chamarajanagar.
• Design development for Bamboo products: For CARD, Angamali 2002
• Design and development of Natural fibre product at Kanyakumari:
RDTDC 2001
• Design and development of Pillow lace Products for SEDA,
Aalaghaimandapam 2001
• Design and development of Screwpine products: Talayolaparambu 2002
• Design and development of Palm stem and other natural fibres, for
Anavoor mahila Samajam, Anavoor – 2002
• Design development workshop for Coir and other natural fibres for Coir
Board, CCRI, Kalavoor, 2003
• Design and development of Palm leaf product: for Chaitanya Jyothi
Nellore 2005
• Design and development of Fabric Painting: at Naidupeta for Chaitanya
Jyothi Welfare Society Nellore 2005
• Design and development workshop for Sisal and other natural fibres; at
Kuderu, Chamarajnagar, for IDPMS, Bangalore 2005
• Design of Screwpine products for KIDS, Kottapuram, Jan 2005
• Design and development of Jute weaving for RDS Murugod, Dec 2005
• Design Development for bamboo products, RDTDC Mysore Nov 2005
• Design development for Leather puppets at Nimmalakunta, for RES,
Hindupur 2005
• Design development for Cane and Bamboo, at Mysore , for RDTDC, tech
wing, Nov 2005
• Design development for Tanjavur art Plates at Tanjavur, RDTDC,
Bangalore Jan 2006
Apart from the consultancies, teaching assignments are a part of the
work: visiting Faculty at NID Ahmedabad and Srishti in Bangalore.
Languages known: Hindi, English, Kannada and Bengali.
33
37. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS :
Designer : Mr. Rajshekhar Narayan
Design associates: Mr. Karthikeyan B
MNSEC, Mysore: Mr. S.C Devarmani, A.D.
Mr. Shekar Singh,
NABARD,
Chamarajnagar: Mr. K.S. Raghupathi, AGM
IDPMS :
Mr. S. Sadanand
Ms. Geetha
Mr. Sesha prasad
Ms. Pushpalatha
Mr. Nagaraj
Mr. Manohar
Mr. Siddhappa
And all the others at IDPMS .
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