SANGANERI PRINTS OF RAJASTHAN…

3. History of Sanganeri prints
Characteristics
Process of block printing
Motifs in Sanganeri block printing
 Types of fabric and materials used
 Colors

4. Rajasthan is the heartland of printed textiles. A
variety of printing techniques are used – block printing,
screen printing, resist printing, gold printing etc.
Sanganer, Jaipur, Barmer, Bagru, Jaisalmer, Chittorgarh,
Palli, Udaipur, and Nathwara are the important centres
for printing.
Sanganer near Jaipur is the most famous centre for
block and screen printed cotton cloth.
The Sanganeri prints of this state are celebrated all
over the country, and have acquired international acclaim as
well. They adorn garments, bedspreads, curtains, table linen,
and other household decorative items.

5. The block printed textiles became famous in the 16
th and 17 th centuries in Europe.
By the end of the 18th century this industry was
fully developed in Sanganer.
There are at present, about 125 hand block printing
units in Sanganer.
Sanganer was renowned for its small decorative
and delicate floral patterns, called, ‘boota-booties’ which
was printed on fine cotton and silk.
It provides sustainable livelihood to many local
families.
In olden days, the fabric was printed mainly for use
of royal families and rich traders but now it is used as
part of clothing for urban families and also exported.

6. Sanganer near
Jaipur

7. Printing Blocks
Some block-makers believe that many
centuries ago, women got tired of their white,
unembellished garments and began using their
bangles dipped in color to pattern their garments.
The carpenters noticed and started making
designs on wood to do the same. Thus began the
tradition of making hand blocks for printing on
textiles.

8. Block printing is done
with the help of wooden
blocks, known as Chhapas or
buntis found in different
shapes and sizes.
Blocks are made of
seasoned teak wood. The
underside of the block has
the floral motifs design
etched on it.
These wooden blocks are
the main tools of the printer.

9. Each block has a
wooden handle and two to
three cylindrical holes
drilled into the block for
free air passage and also to
allow release of excess
printing.
These blocks are
dipped into dye to print
the pattern on the cloth.

11. The printing table is long enough so that good number of
fabric could be printed altogether. The fabric to be printed
is pinned over the table and printed block by block.

12. Characteristics
o The Sanganer prints are famous for its artistry and
intricacy of design.
o Traditional Sanganeri Print is known due to its delicate
floral sprays spaced regularly mostly on a white and
sometimes on pastel blue or yellow ground of fine cotton.
o Fine lines, soft curves, and refinement are the
characteristics of Sanganeri Prints.

13. o The distinctive feature of sanganeri print is that
its background is always white.
o A special feature of Sanganeri Print is the use of
variety of designs in the same piece of cloth, and
these are beautifully harmonized.
o All Sanganeri Prints are produced by Hand
Block Printing and not by any mechanical device.

14.  First, the fabric to be printed is washed free of starch and soft
bleached. If dyeing is required (as in the case of saris where borders
or the body is tied and dyed) it is done before printing.
 The fabric is again washed to remove excess dye and dried
thoroughly.
 The fabric is stretched over the printing table and fastened with
small pins. This is an important stage as there should be a uniform
tension in the fabric with no ripples.
 The color pigments to be used are kept in a tray on a wheeled
wooden trolley with racks which the printer drags along as he
works. On the lower shelves printing blocks are kept ready.

15. The printing starts from left to right.
 Pressure applying on the blocks
during printing should be uniform.
 And the placements of motifs
should also be uniform.
 If it is a multiple color design, the
second printer dips his block in color
again and prints on top of the outline
made by the first block.
 The third color if required follows
likewise, precisely aligning the block
each time.

16. Single color design

17. Double color design

18. Multiple color design

19. A single color design can be executed faster.
 A double color takes more time.
 Multiple color design would mean additional
labor and more color consumption.

20. Calico printing
It is the another technique of printing in sanganer.
In this, the outlines are first printed; only after
that, the colors are filled in.
These designs are then repeated in diagonal rows.

21. Sanganeri motifs are naturalistically rendered, with
motifs usually based on flowers i.e. iris, rose, poppy,
marigold, sunflower, chrysanthemum etc.

22. Stylized flower and plant motifs dominate Sanganeri
Print designs.

23. Now-a-days besides
traditional prints, modern
designs are also found on
block printed cloth.
Instead of hand block
printing these days screen
printing is getting popular.
The traditional ghagras of
Rajasthan carry these block
prints in a very artistic
manner. these ghagras with
added style has a place in the
fashion world.

24. Cotton and silk are mainly
used for sarees.
The principal items printed
here include sarees, dupattas,
salwar-kameez, bed cover,
curtains, scarves, and printed
yardages (running cloth material),
etc.
Both local and imported cloth
material are used.
At present,’ mulmul’ (cotton
voile), ‘latha’ (sheeting fabrics)
and cambric etc. are sourced from
Jaipur.

25. Basically, background of the fabric is in white or pastel
shades.
For sanganeri block printing it is used any color like
blue, green black, red etc.
Sometimes gold and silver colors are also used in
sanganeri prints.
Today, traditional vegetable and mineral colors are
gradually being replaced by chemical ones. Sanganeri
prints command a huge demand from major fashion
centres world – wide.

26. Sometimes it states that sanganer prints and bagru prints are
similar but there are following differences given below-
Difference between Sanganeri and Bagru Prints
Whilst both the eco-friendly printing forms belong to Rajasthan
and use hand blocks,
 Sanganeri prints are usually done on bright colored fabric as a
base. Sanganeri prints are found on bright white background
whereas Bagru prints are done on black, brown, beige, and red
back grounds.
Sanganeri prints are mostly floral trellis like patterns whereas
Bagru prints have motifs and geometrical inlays.

27. Cotton saree in sanganeri prints
Cotton saree in bagru prints

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