Fundamentals of Textile

1. A Presentation
on
Fibre Classification
Sayantan Raha
Asst. Professor
Amity University

2. Fibre:
Fiber is raw material to produce various type of textile finished
products.
Fiber can be spun into yarn or processed into textile such as
woven fabric, knit fabric, lace, felt, non-woven etc. by means of
interlacing and interlooping.
Fiber should have at least 5 mm length then only it will be spin
able.
It must be supple, flexible or strong.

3. Fiber Classification Chart:
FIBER
Natural
Animal Vegetable Mineral
Manmade
Regenerated Synthetic
From
Animal
From
Insect
From
Seeds
From
Leave
From
Fruits
From
Stem
Asbestos
Wool Silk Cotton Sisal Coir
Flax
Jute

4. 1.Natural Fiber:
Natural fibers are those fibers which are obtained from Nature like plants,
animals and minerals which can be spun into filament, thread or rope and
further be woven and knitted.
1.1 Animal or Protein Based Fibers:
Animal fibers are obtained from animals and insects like wool and silk.
1.1.1 Wool:
 Wool is a protein based fiber which is obtained from sheep and other
animals (like goat).
 Wool fiber possesses a feature called ‘crimp’ which is permanent wave.
 Major amount of wool is produced in Australia and New Zealand.

5.  Physical properties of Wool:
i. Length: 3.6 to 35 cm.
ii. Fineness: 10-70 microns (like Marino wool: 10-30 micron and Carpet wool: 20-70 micron).
iii. Cross-section: Circular to elliptical.
iv. Crimp:
 Fine wool: 14-22 crimps per inch
 Medium wool: 8-14 crimps per inch
 Coarse wool: Upto 8 crimps per inch
v. Color: Yellowish but may be brown to black.
vi. Strength: Avg. 1 to 1.7 gram per denier.
vii. Luster:
 Coarse fiber: High luster
 Fine fiber: Less luster
vii. Elongation: 25-35%
viii. Moisture regain: 15-18%
ix. Elasticity: 90-92%

6.  Chemical properties of Wool:
i. Action of Heat - Heated in dry air at 100 to 110°c over a long period it loses its
moisture and strength. Decompose and turn to yellow color.
ii. Effect of water and steam- Exposed to water and steam, with or without tension,
wool will change in its shape and affinity to dye.
iii. Effect of Acid - With conc acid like HCl and H2So4, wool is hydrolyzed immediately
and salt is formed with amino compound which dissolve in acid medium.
iv. Effect of Alkali- Wool dissolve completely in 5% NaOH (caustic soda ) at boil and
disintegrated with dilute NaOH.
v. Effect of Salt - Calcium and magnesium salt in hard water causes yellowish effect on
prolonged boiling.
vi. Action of Oxidizing Agent - Damage of wool is more or less depending upon temp,
conc and pH.

7. 1.1.2 Silk:
 Silk is a protein based fiber which is produced from ‘cocoon’ of the
silkworm.
 India is only one country which produces commercially four varieties of
silk i.e. Mulberry, Tasar, Eri and Muga.
 Silk is lustrous, smooth, drapes well and very strong.

8.  Physical properties of Silk:
i. Length: Longest fiber of about 1000 m
ii. Diameter: 0.013 to 0.08 mm
iii. Denier: 2.3 (Raw state) and 1 to 1.3 (Boiled state)
iv. Microscopy:
 Cross section: Elliptical
 Longitudinal view: Rough surface
v. Moisture Regain: 11% at 65 % R.H and 27°c
vi. Tensile Strength: 3 to 4.5 gram per denier
vii. Elongation: 18 to 22 %
viii. Electrical Property: Poor conductor of electricity and accumulation of static
charge.
ix. Density: 1.33 gm/cc (Raw state) and 1.25 gm/cc (Boiled state).

9.  Chemical properties of Silk:
i. Action of Heat - At 170°c silk is rapidly disintegrated. On burning it
liberates and color similar to burning of hair.
ii. Action of Acid - Lustre of the silk increases as it absorb the dilute acid. It
can decomposed by strong mineral acid. Conc acid such as sulphuric acid
and hydrochloric acid dissolve the silk.
iii. Action of Alkali - Silk is not sensitive to dilute alkali but strong caustic
alkali dissolve the silk.
iv. Effect of Organic Solvent - Cleaning solvents and spot removing solvents
like carbon tetrachloride, Acetone etc. do not damage the silk.
v. Effect of Sunlight - Sunlight tend to accelerate the decomposition of silk.
It increases oxidation and result in fiber degradation.

10. 1.2 Vegetable or Cellulose Fibers:
Vegetable fibers are those fibers which are obtained from seeds (like cotton),
fruits (like coir), stem (like flax, jute, hemp, etc.) and leaves (like sisal).
1.2.1 Cotton:
 Cotton is a cellulose fiber which is most popular for its variety of use.
 It is comfortable to wear because of its unique property.

11.  Physical properties of Cotton:
i. Tensile Strength: Cotton is moderately strong fiber. Tenacity of cotton
fiber is lies between 3-5 gm/denier.
ii. Breaking Elongation: 8-10%
iii. Specific gravity: 1.54 gm/cc
iv. Moisture Regain: Standard is 8.5%
v. Color: Normally the color of cotton is creamy white.
vi. Elastic Recovery (ER): Cotton is inelastic and rigid fiber. At 2%
extension, it has an ER of 74% and at 5% extension, it has an ER of
45%.

12.  Chemical properties of Cotton:
i. Effect of Acid: Concentrated acid such as sulphuric acid and
hydrochloric acid damages the fiber. But weak acid does not
damage the fiber.
ii. Effect of Alkali: Alkali does not damages the fiber.
iii. Effect of Organic Solvent: Cotton is dissolve in concentrated
70% H2SO4.
iv. Effect of Micro Organism: Cotton is attacked by fungi and
bacteria.
v. Effect of Heat: Cotton has an excellent resistance to
degradation by heat. It begins to turn yellow after several hours
at 120°c and decomposes marked by at 150°c.

13. 1.2.2 Coir:
 Coir is a 100% fruit natural fiber and originate in outer husk of “Coconut”.
 Coir fiber is relatively waterproof.
 Used in products such as floor mats, doormats, brushes and mattresses.

14.  Physical properties of Coir:
 Length: 6 to 8 inch.
 Density: 1.44 gm/cc
 Tenacity: 10 gm/tex
 Breaking Elongation: 30 %
 Swelling in Water: 5 %
 Moisture Regain: 10.50%
 Structure: Narrow and hollow, with thick wall made up of cellulose.
 Chemical composition of Coir:
 Lignin: 45.84%
 Cellulose: 43.44%
 Hemi-cellulose: 0.25%
 Pectins: 3%
 Water Soluble: 5.25%
 Ash: 2.22%

15. 1.2.3 Flax or Linen:
 Linen is a cellulose fiber that grow inside of the stalks of the flax plant.
 Linen plants grows to a height of about 0.5 to 1.25 m and stem has diameter
between 1.6 to 3.2mm.
 Used for Bed sheet, Wall covering, Tablecloth, etc.
 Flax is cultivated in cold and humid condition.

16.  Physical properties of Flax:
i. Length: Avg. length of flax fiber varies from 90 to 125 cm.
ii. Diameter: Avg. diameter is about 0.02 mm.
iii. Tensile Strength: Tenacity varies from 6.5 to 8 gm/D.
iv. Elongation: Elongation at break is approx. 1.8 % (dry) and 2.2 % (wet).
v. Specific gravity: 1.50 gm/cc
vi. Color: Brownish, grey, yellowish.
vii. Luster: Good luster because of natural wax content.
viii. Moisture Regain: 12% (Standard)
ix. Abrasion Resistance: Moderate
 Chemical properties of Flax:
i. Action of Acid: There is no effect of dilute acid on flax fiber if it washed immediately,
but concentrated acid damages the flax fiber.
ii. Effect of Alkali: Flax fiber has an excellent resistance of alkali. They do not degraded
by strong alkali.
iii. Effect of Bleaches: Cool chlorine and hypo chloride bleaches does not affect flax fiber.
iv. Dyes: Flax fiber are not suitable for dyes, but it can be dyed by direct or vat dye.

17. 1.2.4 Jute:
 Jute is a long, soft and shiny vegetable fiber popularly known as the
“Golden fiber”.
 Jute is one of the cheapest and strongest of all natural fiber.
 Used in outerwear, carpets, shoes, etc.
 Physical properties of Jute:
i. Length: 50 to 300 mm
ii. Diameter: 0.035 to 0.14 mm
iii. Specific gravity: 1.48 gm/cc
iv. Tenacity: 2.7 to 5.3 gm/tex
v. Breaking Elongation: 0.8 to 1.8 %
vi. Moisture Regain: 13 %
vii. Traverse swelling in water: 20 to 22 %

18.  Chemical Properties of Jute:
i. Chemical Composition:
 Cellulose - 58-63%
 Hemicellulose - 20- 22%
 Lignin - 12 - 14.5 %
 Wax and fats - 0.4 -0.8%
 Pectin - 0.2 -0.5 %
 Protein - 0.8 - 2.5 5
 Mineral matter - 0.6 -1.2%
ii. Prolonged heating causes degradation of jute fiber.
iii. Action of Heat: Strong acid at boiling causes hydrocellulose and lead to loss in
strength. But dilute acid have no effect on jute fiber.
iv. Action of Alkali: Dilute alkali has no effect on jute fiber, but strong alkali at boil
causes loss in strength.

19. 1.2.5 Hemp:
 Hemp fiber is a bast fiber (like jute, flax, etc.).
 Hemp fiber are found on the long stalk of the hemp plant.
 These fibers are valued for strength and durability and their antimicrobial and
anti-mildew properties.

20.  Physical properties of Hemp:
i. Length: 4 to 6.5 feet
ii. Color: Yellowish grey to deep brown.
iii. Tensile Strength: Hemp is a very strong fiber.
iv. Elongation at Break: Hemp fibers stress easily.
v. Elastic Recovery: Elastic Recovery is very poor.
vi. Moisture Regain: 12% (Standard)
vii. Luster: Highly bright like linen fiber.
 Chemical properties of Hemp:
i. Effect of Heat: Hemp fiber has an excellent resistance to degradation by heat.
ii. Effect of Sunlight: Hemp has enough ability to prevent the bad affect of sunlight.
iii. Effect of Acids: Hemp is attacked by hot dilute acids or cold concentrated which it
disintegrates.
iv. Effect of Alkalis: Hemp fiber has an excellent resistance to alkalis.
v. Effect of Organic Solvent: It does not affected by the organic solvents.
vi. Effect of Insects: Hemp fiber is not attacked by moth or beetles.
vii. Ability to Dye: It is not suitable to dye the hemp fiber.

21. 1.2.6 Sisal:
 Sisal is the most widely used natural fiber which is obtained from sisal
plant.
 Its scientific name is “ Agava sisalana”.
 Sisal fiber has a 7-10 years life span and produces 200-250 usable leaves.
Each leaf contain an average of about 1000 fiber.
 Used in Carpets, Mattresses, Handicrafts, etc.

22.  Physical properties of Sisal:
i. Length: 80 to 120 cm and 0.2 to 0.4 mm in diameter.
ii. Color: White to yellowish
iii. Sisal is durable and recyclable.
iv. It is antistatic, does not dust particle and does not absorb moisture or water
easily.
v. Fine fiber takes dyes easily, offers the largest range of dyed color.
vi. Its leaves can be treated with natural borax for fire resistance property.
vii. Coarse and Inflexible.

23.  Chemical properties of Sisal:

24. 1.3 Mineral fiber:
Mineral fiber are those fiber which have their origin in the rocks with
fibrous structure and are composed , essentially, of silicates like
Asbestos.
1.3.1 Asbestos:
It is a group of six naturally occurring fibrous minerals.
Exposure to asbestos causes several cancers and diseases.
Although asbestos strengthens and fireproof materials, but it is banned
in many countries.
Used in Cloth, Paper, Cement, Plastic and other materials to make them
stronger.

25.  Properties of Asbestos:
i. Asbestos fibers are soft and flexible.
ii. It is resistant to heat, electricity and corrosion.
iii. Asbestos fiber will not burn.
iv. Length: 1.91-0.94 cm (for longer), 0.94 cm (for shorter).

26. MAN MADE FIBRES

27. Definition:
 Man Made Fiber is made by regeneration system. Its number
of molecular weight is limited. It’s totally controlled by man.
Man Made Fiber is also known as Synthetic fiber.

28. Classification of Man-Made Fibers:

29. Cellulosic Regenerated fibers:
 These are naturally occurring polymers, regenerated, can’t be used at their
natural state, so the fibers are chemically processed.
 E.g. Rayon, Lyocell.

30. Rayon:
 These are the most widely used a semisynthetic fibers, they are derived
from cellulose and available in 3 different varieties.
 Viscose rayon – cellulose dissolved in a mixture of sodium hydroxide
(NaOH) and carbon disulphide (CS₂) and a viscous liquid is obtained, and
the liquid is processed in a acid bath to obtain the filaments of viscose
rayon.
 Cuprammonium Rayon – cellulose and cuprammonium hydroxide is
resulting the filaments of cuprammonium rayon.
 Acetate Rayon – In this case cellulose dissolved in a mixture of acetic
acid, sulphuric acid and forms the filaments of acetic rayon.

31. Advantages of Rayon:
 It is cheaper to produce as compared to cotton.
 Rayon can be blended with other fibers like wool and silk.

32. Properties of Rayon
Properties
of Rayon
Easily
dyed with
woven in
cloth
Drapes well
Illustrates
in
apperaance
Good
absorbent
of sweat

33. Other Regenerated Fibers:
 Alginate fiber – Forms from polysaccharides.
 Regenerated Protein fiber – 1. soyasilk – produced from soyabean waste. 2.
silk latte – produced from milk protein.
 Bamboo – soft and silky hand.

34. Synthetic Fibres:
 Polyesters – The 1st synthetic fiber obtain on this class, this polymers
obtain by the reaction of organic compound and then its spun into
filaments. Terylene and dacron also belong in this class. Polyesters used
to make textiles, bottles, insulating tapes.
 Polyamides(Nylons) – Nylon 6 and nylon 6,6 are the most important
fibers of this class, nylon is very suitable for women’s wear having a high
tensile strength and also used for making ropes.
 Acrylics – acrylic fibers are the substitute for the natural wools. This
filaments are cut into staples and then spun into yarns.
 Acrylic fibers are crimpy, and not as longer as polyester so it was used for
knit wear, upholstery and artificial furs.

35. Advantages of Synthetic fibers:
 Synthetic fibers do not depends on crops like cotton, flax, jute or animal
farming like silk, wool.
 Synthetic fibers are much stronger than natural fibers and hence more
durable than natural fibers.
 Synthetic fibers are not easily acted with moisture, chemicals or
bacteria.
 They are generally cheaper than natural fibers.

36. Disadvantages of Synthetic fibers:
 Synthetic fibers melt before burning, so the clothes of this fibers
causing to burns, so they should not be worn in the kitchen.
 Synthetic fibers are generally hydrophobic they repels moisture(e.g.
sweat), and not allows proper air circulation, so this are not
confortable to wear.
 Some electrical charge accumulates on synthetic fibers, which
irritates to the skin.

37. Inorganic Fibers:
 Inorganic fibers are fibers made from inorganic
materials are classified into the following categories –
glass fiber, amorphous fiber like rock wool, carbon
fiber and monocrystal fiber etc.
 Glass fiber – Used in a broad range in insulation,
heat proofing, sample preparation.

38. Inorganic Fibers:
 Metallic Fiber – Helps to minimize
tarnishing.
 When suitable adhesive and films used
they are not affected by salt water,
chlorinated water in swimming pool or
climatic conditions.

39. Inorganic Fibers:
 Carbon Fibers – it has high stiffness, high
tensile strength, low weight, high chemical
resistance that helps in aerospace, civil
engineering, military and motorsports.
 Carbon fibers are comparatively expansive
than glass fibers and plastic fibers.

40. REFERENCES
 https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/man-made-fibre
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiber#Man-made_fibers
 https://www.slideshare.net/Farhanullahbaig/manmade-fibers-70793409
 http://www.bcomp.ch/en/natural-fibres
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_fiber

41. THANK YOU
Sayantan Raha
Asst. Professor
Amity University