textile science

1. Fiber classification
Fiber and Textile Fiber:
It is defined as one of the delicate, hair portions of the tissues of a plant or
animal or other substances that are very small in diameter in relation to
their length. A fiber is a material which is several hundred times as long as
it’s thick.
In textile arena: Textile fiber is the raw materials to produce various types of
textile finished products. A fiber that can be spun into yarn or processed into
textile such as Woven fabric, Knit fabric, lace, felt, non-woven fabric etc by
means of an appropriate interlacing method is called textile fiber.
Types of Textile Fiber:
There are various types of fiber in the market but all have not same
characteristics. The characteristics of fiber differ depending on the source
from where it is produce.
Generally two types of fiber.
(1) Natural fiber.
(2) Manmade fiber.

2. (1) Natural Fiber:
Natural fibers include those produced by plants, animals, and geological
processes. They are biodegradable over time. They can be classified
according to their origin.
A class name for various genera of fibers (including filaments) of:
a. Animal
- Wool and Hair fiber
- Silk and other filaments
b. Mineral
-Asbestos fiber
c. Vegetable origin
-Bast fiber (Jute, Flux, Ramie)
-Leaf fiber (Sisal, Manila)
-Seed and Fruits fiber (cotton, coir)
(2) Man Made Fiber:
It is also known as manufactured fiber. Synthetic or man-made fibers
generally come from synthetic materials such as petrochemicals. But some
types of synthetic fibers are manufactured from natural cellulose; rayon,
modal, and the more recently developed Lyocell.

3. Properties of Cotton
Review
 Cotton is a seed fiber and grows in warm climates.
 Modern harvesting of the cotton crop is highly mechanized.
 Cotton is a good choice for clothing for its comfort and easy care.
Characteristics of Cotton Fibers and Products
 Comfortable to wear
 Natural, cellulosic fiber
 Made from the cotton boll
 Absorbs water and “breathes”
 Slow to dry
 Resists static electricity build-up
 Wrinkles easily
 Can withstand heat, detergents, and bleach
 About 20% stronger when wet than dry
 Will shrink unless treated
 Can be damaged by mildew
Properties of Wool Fiber
Wool fiber is the natural hair grown on sheep and is composed of protein
substance called as keratin. Wool is composed of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen
and this is the only animal fiber, which contains sulfur in addition. The wool
fibers have crimps or curls, which create pockets and give the wool a spongy
feel and create insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber
consists of a series of serrated scales, which overlap each other much like
the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration’s which make it
possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt.

4. Properties of Wool Fiber
The characteristics of Wool fiber or protein fibers are as follows:
 They are composed of amino acids.
 They have excellent absorbency.
 Moisture regain is high.
 They tend to be warmer than others.
 They have poor resistance to alkalis but good resistance to acids.
 They have good elasticity and resiliency.
Classification of Wool
The quality of wool fibers produced is based on the breeding conditions, the
weather, food, general care etc. For example, excessive moisture dries out
natural grease. Similarly the cold weather produces harder and heavier
fibers. The wool could be classified in two different ways:
1. By sheep from which it is obtained
2. By fleece
Properties of Silk
Silk:
Silk is one of the popular fabrics for apparel because of its unique properties.
Silk is most luxurious fabric, the most comfortable fabric, the most
absorbent of fabrics (equal to wool), the best fabric for drape, the best fabric
for color, capable of the greatest luster, having the finest "hand" etc. These
are some of the factors which make the fabric more popular. The fabric is
cool in summer and warm in winter.
Silk fabric
Silk is marked by the following properties:
 low density makes for light and comfortable clothing

5.  high resistance to deformation
 good insulation properties / warm in winter, cool in summer
 strongest natural fiber available
 shimmers and shines
 good affinity to dye
 leaving aside the rather demanding care, silk is one of the most
comfortable fiber fabrics in the world
 Flammability: Silk burns slowly when contact with flam. Silk also
has self-extinguishes.
 Uses: Silk is widely used all over the world. Silk is used for children's
wear, Ladies wears, Tie, Suits etc.
Silk fiber has some chemical properties
1) Effect of Bleaches: Silk fiber damage with high concentrated bleaching
agents. Hence perfectly white silk fabric is not seen.
2) Acid and alkali: Both acid and alkali damage silk fiber.
3) Effect of the organic solvent: Silk fiber unaffected from the organic
solvent.
4) Dye-ability: Silk fiber dyed at low temperature by direct, acid, basic vat
dye and Reactive dyes.
Properties of Polyester
Polyester Fiber
A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is any long-chain
synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of a
substituted aromatic carboxylic acid.
Polyester Fiber
Properties of Polyester
1. Strong
2. Resistant to stretching and shrinking

6. 3. Resistant to most chemicals
4. Quick drying
5. Crisp and resilient when wet or dry
6. Wrinkle resistant
7. Mildew resistant
8. Abrasion resistant
9. Retains heat-set pleats and crease
10. Easily washed
Nylon
Nylon Fabric:
Nylon is very much suitable for hosiery and the knitted fabrics because of
its smoothness, light weight and high strength. Nylon is a lustrous fibre. The
lustre of the fibre can be modified by adding the delustering agent at the
molten stage.
Nylon fabric
Physical and Chemical Properties Nylon Fabrics
Strength: Nylon has good tenacity and the strength is not lost with age.
Nylon has a high strength to weight ratio. It is one of the lightest textile
fibres is at the same time also one of the strongest. It is one of the fibres
which are added at the points of wear such as knees and seats of jeans and
toes and heels of socks. The strength of the nylon fabric is lost when wet.
Nylon has excellent abrasion resistance.
Elasticity: Nylon has good elasticity which makes it much suitable for the
apparel purposes. The excellent elasticity would mean that the nylon
materials return to their original length and shreds the wrinkles or creases.
Nylon like other fibres has its own limit of elasticity. If stretched too much, it
will not completely recover its shape. The high elongation and excellent
elastic recovery of nylon contributes to the outstanding performance in

7. hosiery. Nylon hosiery recovers to its original shape at knees and ankles
instead of bagging.
Resilience: Nylon fabrics have excellent resilience. Nylon fabrics retain their
smooth appearance and the wrinkles from the usual daily activities can be
removed easily.
Drapability: Fabrics of nylon filament yarn have excellent draping qualities.
The drape of the fabrics made from nylon can be varied depending on the
yarn size. The light weight sheer fabrics of nylon night gowns have high-
draping quality. The medium-weight dress fabrics can drape very nicely.
Heat Conductivity: The heat conductivity of the nylon fabrics vary
depending upon the fabric construction, the type of nylon (staple/filament)
used in the construction etc. For instance, the filament nylon used in the
open construction would be cooler when compared to the same filament
used in a closed construction. In a closed or tight construction the air
circulation through the fabric is limited. The heat and moisture of the body
will not readily pass the fabric construction, which makes the wearer feel
very warm. Such fabrics are good for winter apparel, such as wind-breakers,
but are not suitable for summer garments. On the other hand the fabrics
with open construction permits the air circulation which makes the wearer
feel cool.
Absorbency: Nylon fabrics have low absorbency. The low absorbency of the
fabrics tends to be advantageous and also disadvantageous. The main
advantage of the nylons low absorbency is that the water remains on the
surface of the fabrics and runs off the smooth fabric and hence dries quickly.
This property makes the nylon fabrics suitable for raincoats and shower
curtains. Nylon’s low absorbency has a disadvantage in that the fabric feels
clammy and uncomfortable in warm, humid weather.
Cleanliness and Washability: Nylon fabrics are easy care garments. Nylon
fabrics are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt doesn’t cling to this
smooth fibre, which can be washed easily or can be even cleaned by using a
damp cloth. Nylon whites are commonly referred as colour scavengers and
should be washed separately to avoid greying. They easily pick up colour
and dirt from the wash water. Nylons, washed with other fabrics pick up
colour (even from the palest pastels) and develop a dingy grey appearance
that is extremely difficult to remove. In addition to retaining their
appearance during wear, garments made from nylon fabrics retain their
appearance and shape after washing. Hot water should be avoided during
washing as the hot water may cause wrinkling in some fabric constructions.

8. Effect of Bleaches: The nylon fabrics are white and generally do not
require bleaching. The nylon fabrics which pick up colour or develop greying
should be bleached with oxidising bleaches such as hydrogen peroxide.
Shrinkage: Nylon fabrics retain their shape and appearance after washing.
It has good stability and does not shrink.
Effect of Heat: Nylon should always be ironed at low temperatures. Using
hot iron will result in glazing and then melting of the fabric.
Effect of Light: Nylon fabrics have low resistance to sun light. They are not
suitable for curtains or draperies as it is weakened by the exposure to sun
light.
Yarn
Types of yarns
Classification of Yarn According to Yarn Structure:
Yarns may be divided into three types according to their structure as
follows:
1. Staple Fiber Yarns or Spun Yarns (single yarn):
Spun yarns are made by mechanical assembly and twisting together
(spinning) of staple fibers.
2. Ply Yarn:
Single yarns are used in the majority of fabrics for normal textile and
clothing applications, but in order to obtain special yarn features, particularly
high strength and modulus for technical and industrial applications, ply yarns
are often needed. A folded or ply yarn is produced by twisting two or more
single yarns together in one operation, and a cabled yarn is formed by
twisting together two or more folded yarns or a combination of folded and
single yarns. The twisting together of several single yarns.
Increases the tenacity of the yarn by improving the binding-in of the fibers
on the outer layers of the component single yarns. Ply yarns are also more
regular, smoother and harder wearing. The direction of twisting is
designated as S or Z, just as in single yarns. Normally the folding twist is in
the opposite direction to that of the single yarns.
3. Filament Yarns:
A filament yarn is made from one or more continuous strands called
filaments where each component filament runs the whole length of the yarn.

9. Those yarns composed of one filament are called monofilament yarns, and
those containing more filaments are known as multifilament yarns.
For apparel applications, a multifilament yarn may contain as few as two or
three filaments or as many as 50 filaments.
In carpeting, for example, a filament yarn could consist of hundreds of
filaments; most manufactured fibers have been produced in the form of a
filament yarn.
Silk is the only major naturalfilament yarn.
Filament Yarn
Classification of Yarn According to Their Use:
Yarns may be divided into two classifications according to their use:
1. Weaving yarns and
2. Knitting yarns.
Weaving Yarns:
Yarns for woven cloth are prepared for the intended end use. Yarns to be
used in the warp, the lengthwise direction of a cloth, are generally stronger,
have a tighter twist, and are smoother and more even than are yarns used
for filling, the cross wise direction of a cloth.
Knitting Yarns:
These may be divided into yarns for hand knitting and yarns for machine
knitting. Knitting yarns are more slackly twisted than yarns for weaving.
Hand knitting yarns are generally ply, where as those for machine knitting
can be either single or ply. The following are some of the yarn used for hand
knitting.
Sport yarn: The three-ply yarn used for socks, sweaters, and hats.
Shetland yarn: The two-ply yarn used for sweaters.
Fashion or novelty yarn: Any novelty structure.
Types of yarn
Classification based on number of strands

10. Yarns can be described as single, or one-ply; ply, plied, or folded; or as
cord, including cable and hawser types.
Single yarns
Single, or one-ply, yarns are single strands composed of fibres held together
by at least a small amount of twist; or of filaments grouped together either
with or without twist; or of narrow strips of material; or of single man-made
filaments extruded in sufficient thickness for use alone
as yarn (monofilaments). Single yarns of the spun type, composed of many
short fibres, require twist to hold them together and may be made with
either S-twist or Z-twist. Single yarns are used to make the greatest variety
of fabrics.
Ply yarns
Ply, plied, or folded, yarns are composed of two or more single yarns twisted
together. Two-ply yarn, for example, is composed of two single strands;
three-ply yarn is composed of three single strands. In making ply yarns from
spun strands, the individual strands are usually each twisted in one direction
and are then combined and twisted in the opposite direction. When both the
single strands and the final ply yarns are twisted in the same direction,
the fiber is firmer, producing harder texture and reducing flexibility. Ply
yarns provide strength for heavy industrial fabrics and are also used for
delicate-looking sheer fabrics.
Cord yarns
Cord yarns are produced by twisting ply yarns together, with the final twist
usually applied in the opposite direction of the ply twist. Cable cords may
follow an SZS form, with S-twisted singles made into Z-twisted plies that are
then combined with an S-twist, or may follow a ZSZ form. Hawser cord may
follow an SSZ or a ZZS pattern. Cord yarns may be used as rope or twine,
may be made into very heavy industrial fabrics, or may be composed of
extremely fine fibers that are made up into sheer dress fabrics.

11. Textured yarns
Texturizing processes were originally applied to man-made fibers to reduce
such characteristics as transparency, slipperiness, and the possibility of
pilling (formation of small fiber tangles on a fabric surface). Texturizing
processes make yarns more opaque, improve appearance and texture, and
increase warmth and absorbency. Textured yarns are man-made continuous
filaments, modified to impart special texture and appearance. In the
production of abraded yarns, the surfaces are roughened or cut at various
intervals and given added twist, producing a hairy effect.
Ply
A plied yarn is one where multiple strands of yarn — already spun yarn —
are put together and twisted in the opposite direction from that in which

12. they were first twisted. A 2-ply yarn has two strands; a 3-ply yarn has
three. ... Plied yarns will always be stronger and sturdier than singles yarns
Twist
Yarn Twist:
Twist is the spiral arrangement of the fibres around the axis of the yarn. The
twist binds the fibres together and also contributes to the strength of the
yarn. The amount of twist inserted in a yarn defines the appearance and the
strength of the yarn. The number of twists is referred to as turns per inch.
Types of Twist
 S-twist
 Z-twist
Yarn twist
Twist is the spiral arrangement of the fibres around the axis of the yarn.
The twist binds the fibres together and also contributes to the strength of
theyarn. The amount of twist inserted in a yarn defines the appearance
and the strength of the yarn. .

13. The amount of twist also depends upon the type of the fabric to be
woven:
1. Yarns intended for soft surfaced fabric are given slack twist. They are
called as soft twisted yarns.
2. Yarns intended for smooth surfaced fabrics are given optimum twists.
Such twisted yarns contribute strength, smoothness and elasticity.
3. Yarns intended for crepe fabrics are given maximum amount of twists.
Blends
Blending, in yarn production, process of combining fibres of different
origins, length, thickness, or colour to make yarn. ... Fabrics made from
such fibres are called blends. Using fibre blends improves the
appearance, performance, comfort and aftercare of fabric. Blending can
also reduce the cost of an expensive fibre.
Is blending necessary?
Blending of cellulosic fibers with man-made fibers to produce fabrics with
improved characteristics has long been accepted throughout the world. The
use of blended fabrics has been tremendously increased even in India. The
price structure and multi-fiber policy of government have increased the use
of cellulosic blended fabrics.
The properties of the fibers blended are combined and made into a modified
state in the blended fabric. If blending is done carefully the good qualities of
the fibers are emphasized minimizing the poor qualities. Blending requires
knowledge of both fiber science and art. It enables the technician to produce
a perfect fabric for perfect use.
Various reasons for fabric blending
 The important reason for blending fibers is to produce better
performance. By blending we can improve the characteristics that are
poor in one fiber, by blending it with another type of fabrics that excel
in those characteristics For example polyester when blended with
cotton, the resultant fabric has moderate absorbancy which is almost
nil in polyester.
 To improve the texture, hand or feel and appearance of fabrics
blending of wool fibers with polyester produces the desired texture for

14. suiting materials. Viscose, when blended with cotton, improves it’s
lusture and softness and thereby enhances it’s appearance.
 To reduce the cost This is sometimes one of the important reasons for
blending of fibers. The cost of a very expensive fabric can often be
reduced by blending with another cheap fiber. For example, expensive
wool is blended with cheaper polyester to reduce the cost.
 To produce cross-dyed effects Fibres with unlike dye affinity are
combined and dyed together so that it produces interesting cross dyes
effects as one fiber take up the color and the other retains its original
color.
 To improve the spinning, weaving and finishing efficiency for example
the spinning efficiency of polyester is improved by blending with cotton
to produce spun yarns. Blending may be done before or during
spinning. It can be done at the opening and blending stage. though it
facilitates perfect blending it poses problems and so it is not of much
use. Even at the sliver stage overdrawing or roving or spinning frames
blending can be done. Blending overdrawing frame is most commonly
used today. slivers of different fibers are combined overdrawing frame
depending on blend ratio. They are drawn to get a single silver which
is later processed into yarn.
Types of Blended Fabrics
Among the various types of blends available today, the most popular fabrics
are terry cotton, terry wool, polyester viscose. Polyester cotton viscose
blends are most common. Various effects and combinations of properties are
produced from these blends depending on the fibers used and the
percentage of these fibers used in each blend.
Terry Cotton
Terry-wool Suiting Fabrics
Polyester Viscose Rayon
Cotton voile:
Voile is a light weight, semi-sheer fabric with a great drape. It is a soft,
fabric, usually made of 100% cotton or cotton blends including linen or
polyester. The term comes from French, and means veil. Because of its light
weight, the fabric is mostly used in soft furnishing. In hot countries, voile is
used as window treatments and mosquito nets. When used as curtain
material, voile is similar to net curtains.

15. Cotton voile
Voiles are available in a range of patterns and colours (unlike net curtains,
which are generally white or off-white). Because of their semitransparent
quality, voile curtains are made using specially manufactured heading tape
that is less easily noticeable through the fabric. Voile fabric is also used in
dress-making, either in multiple layers or laid over a second material. Voile
is very similar to chiffon, which is also used in dress-making.
Cotton lawn:
Lawn is very similar to cotton voile but is slightly crisper. Lawn cloth or lawn
is a plain weave textile, originally of linen but now chiefly cotton. Lawn is
designed using fine, high count yarns, which results in a silky, untextured
feel.
Cotton lawn
Rayon challis:
Rayon challis is a smooth, lightweight fabric. It drapes well and is slightly
heavier than other lightweight fabrics, like cotton voile and cotton lawn.

16. Rayon challis
Chambray:
Chambray is another smooth, lightweight fabric. It doesn’t drape as well as
rayon challis, cotton voile or cotton lawn. Cambric or batiste, one of the
finest and most dense kinds of cloth, is a lightweight plain-weave cloth,
originally from the French commune of Cambrai, woven in greige, then
bleached, piece-dyed and often glazed or calendered. Initially it was made of
linen; later, the term came to be applied to cotton fabrics as well. Cambric is
used for linens, shirtings, handkerchieves and as fabric for lace and
needlework.
Chambray
Denim:
Denim is a heavy-weight fabric with very little drape or stretch. Denim is a
sturdy cotton warp-faced twill textile in which the weft passes under two or
more warp threads. This twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing
of the denim that distinguishes it from cotton duck.

17. Denim
It is a characteristic of most indigo denim that only the warp threads are
dyed, whereas the weft threads remain plain white. As a result of the warp-
faced twill weaving, one side of the textile then shows the blue warp threads
and the other side shows the white weft threads. This is why blue jeans are
white on the inside. The indigo dyeing process, in which the core of the warp
threads remains white, creates denim's fading characteristics, which are
unique compared to every other textile.
Double gauze:
Double gauze is a unique fabric in that it is literally two layers of gauze
woven together. The double layer of fabric eradicates the main problem of
sewing clothing from gauze (the sheerness), while retaining the good
qualities (extremely light and breathable).
Double gauze
Knit:
In the knit fabric category, there are several types of knit, varying from
lightweight to medium weight. Knit fabric is your go-to for any garment that
needs to have a great deal of stretch. Patterns are designed for either woven

18. fabric or knit fabric, and patterns sized for knit fabric will often specify the
degree of stretch needed in the fabric.
Knit fabric
Silk:
Silk is a lightweight, delicate fabric that drapes well. It has a slightly
shimmery appearance. Silk can be slippery and more difficult to work with.
It also makes a great lining fabric.
Silk dress
Satin:
Satin can vary from lightweight to heavyweight, depending on the type of
satin. Like silk, it has a glossy appearance. Satin is a weave that typically
has a glossy surface and a dull back. The satin weave is characterized by
four or more cool fill or weft yarns floating over a warp yarn or vice versa,

19. four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn. Floats are missed
interfacings, where the warp yarn lies on top of the weft in a warp-faced
satin and where the weft yarn lies on top of the warp yarns in weft-faced
satins. These floats explain the even sheen, as unlike in other weaves, the
light reflecting is not scattered as much by the fibers, which have fewer
tucks. Satin is usually a warp-faced weaving technique in which warp yarns
are "floated" over weft yarns, although there are also weft-faced satins. If a
fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibers such as silk, nylon,
or polyester, the corresponding fabric is termed a satin, although some
definitions insist that the fabric be made from silk. If the yarns used are
short-staple yarns such as cotton, the fabric formed is considered a sateen.
Satin
Linen:
Linen is a medium-weight fabric with little elasticity (hence the wrinkles).
But it conducts heat very well, which is why it’s a popular choice for warm-
weather anything.
Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. Linen is laborious to
manufacture, but the fiber is very absorbent and garments made of linen are
valued for their exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather.

20. Linen shoe
Many products are made of linen: aprons, bags, towels (swimming, bath,
beach, body and wash towels), napkins, bed linens, tablecloths, runners,
chair covers, and men's and women's wear.
The word linen is of West Germanic origin and cognate to the Latin name for
the flax plant, linum, and the earlier Greek. This word history has given rise
to a number of other terms in English, most notably line, from the use of a
linen (flax) thread to determine a straight line.
Textiles in a linen weave texture, even when made of cotton, hemp and
other non-flax fibers, are also loosely referred to as "linen". Such fabrics
generally also have their own specific names, for example fine cotton yarn in
a linen-style weave is called Madapolam.
The collective term "linens" is still often used generically to describe a class
of woven or knitted bed, bath, table and kitchen textiles traditionally made
of linen. In the past, "linens" also referred to lightweight undergarments
such as shirts, chemises, waist shirts, lingerie (a word also cognate with
linen), and detachable shirt collars and cuffs, all of which were historically
made almost exclusively out of linen. The inner layer of fine composite cloth
garments (as for example jackets) was traditionally made of linen, hence the
word lining.
Wool:
There are over 200 different types of wool, coming from 40 different breeds
of sheep, so the weight will vary depending on the type of wool. Wool is

21. extremely hard-wearing and versatile. It’s also very warm and a good choice
for colder weather garments.
Wool
Flannel:
Flannel is a soft, lightweight fabric. It works well for colder-temperature
shirts, pants and jackets.Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness.
Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now
often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber. Flannel may be
brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. Brushing is a
mechanical process wherein a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fine
fibers from the loosely spun yarns. Typically, flannel has either a single- or
double-sided nap. Double-napped flannel refers to a fabric that has been
brushed on both sides. If the flannel is not napped, it gains its softness
through the loosely spun yarn in its woven form. Flannel is commonly used
to make tartan clothing, blankets, bed sheets, and sleepwear."Flannel shirt"
is often mistakenly used to mean any shirt with a plaid or tartan pattern,
rather than a shirt constructed of flannel fabric.

22. Nonwoven Fabric
Nonwoven fabrics are engineered fabrics created from fibers, continuous
filaments or cut yarns. They are flexible, porous, products consisting of one
or more fibre layers. The separate fibres may either be preferentially
oriented in one direction or may be deposited in a random manner. Non-
woven are bonded by chemical, thermal or mechanical processes into textile
products. They are mainly planar structures.
Nonwoven fabric
Characteristics of Nonwoven Fabric
The particular set of properties that a non-woven fabric may have is
dependent upon the combination of factors in its production. The range of
characteristics is wide.
1. The appearance of non-woven fabrics may be paper like, felt like, or
similar to that of woven fabrics.
2. They may have a soft, resilient hand, or they may be hard, stiff, or
broadly with little pliability.
3. They may be as thin as thin as tissue paper or many times thicker.
4. They also may be translucent or opaque.
5. Their porosity may range from low tear and burst strength to very high
tensile strength.
6. They may be fabricated by gluing, heat bonding, or sewing.
7. The drapability of this type of fabrics varies from good to none at all.
8. Some fabrics have excellent launderability; others have none. Some may
be dry-cleaned.
Nonwovens are engineered to provide particular properties suited to desired
end uses. For example, diapers can be constructed of two different layers of
nonwoven fabrics: an outer layer composed of a wetting-agent treated
polyester that will permit rapid fluid penetration, but with minimal lateral
wicking, and an inner layer of absorbent rayon. Thin, high-
filtration nonwoven fabrics for surgical masks can be composed of

23. microdenier fibres; thick, fluffy, insulating nonwovens for ski jackets can
also be made of microdenier fibres. Research continues in order to achieve
or perhaps exceed certain properties of conventionally constructed cloth.
End Uses of Non-woven Fabric
The use of non-woven products continues to expand. The many uses of
nonwovens may be classified as disposables, durable consumer goods, and
industrial materials. All these areas are making increasing use of this kind of
merchandise because of its low cost and its suitability for many needs.
Disposable nonwovens are essentially made for one time use; but some,
such as dust cloths, may be laundered and reused a few times.
General applications include personal hygiene products, such as diapers and
sanitary napkins; medical products such as surgical gowns and drapes;
surgical and industrial masks, bandages, wipes and towels; bibs and even
costumes for special events. They have recent become popular for light
weight ''fun'' cloths that can be washed a number of times. Durable
nonwovens have wide applications. Consumer durables include both
household goods and home furnishings, such as for draperies, furniture
upholstery, mattress padding, towels, table cloths, blankets and carpet
backing and clothing and apparel, such as for caps, linings, interlinings,
interfacings and the reinforcement of other fabrics. Many industrial uses
include filters, insulation, packing materials, roadbed stabilization sheeting
or road-building materials geo-textiles and roofing products.
Quality Parameters of Woven Fabrics:
There are some quality parameters of woven fabric
1. Dimensional characteristics:
 Length
 Width
 Thickness.
2. Weight of fabric:
 Weight per unit area.
 Weight per unit length.

24. 3. Fabric strength and extensibility:
 Tensile strength.
 Tearing strength.
4. Threads per inch of fabric:
 Ends per inch.
 Picks per inch.
5. Yarn count:
 Warp count
 Weft count.
6. Crimp:
 Warp crimp
 Weft crimp.
7. Handle:.
 Stiffness
 Drape.
8. Crease resistance and crease recovery.
9. Air permeability.
10. Abrasion resistance.
11. Water resistance.
12. Shrinkages.
13.Different fastness properties:
 Fastness to light.
 Fastness to wash.
 Fastness to perspiration.
 Fastness to Rubbing.

25. Quality Parameters of Knitted Fabrics:
There are some quality parameters of knitted fabric...............
1. Strength and extensibility.
2. Course density.
3. Wales density.
4. Lop length.
5. Elasticity.
6. Deformation.
7. Grams per square meter (G.S.M)
8. Yarn count.
9. Design.
Quality Parameters of Non-woven Fabrics:
There are some quality parameters of non-woven fabric..................
1. Strength and extensibility of fabric.
2. Weight.
3. Thickness.
4. Air permeability.
5. Crease resistance.
6. Stability of washing.
7. Stability of dry cleaning.
8. Dimensional stability.
9. Elasticity.
Yarn count system
Count or Linear Density:
The different end-uses require yarns of different thickness . The accepted
way to indicate the thickness of a yarn or material in various stages of yarn
manufacturing , is to give the yarn count or linear density.
Count measurement machine

26. The length of the material is measured out , and then weighed . Count is
expressed as the length per unit mass.The linear density is expressed as
mass per unit length . Each system is referred to as being either indirect or
direct .
Types of Numbering Systems :
There are two types of systems available for expressing the count / linear
density of the yarn / material :
1. INDIRECT SYSTEM
2. DIRECT SYSTEM
INDIRECT SYSTEM :
In this system the weight unit is fixed and the length of the yarn varies as
per its thickness . The following system are indirect systems :
 New English System
 New Metric System
New English System :
The number of hanks of 840 yards in one pound weight is known as the
count of the yarn . It is also known as cotton count and is denoted by Ne .
No. of Hanks ( Hank of 840 yards )
Count (Ne) = ---------------------------------------------------------
1 lb weight
New Metric System :
The number of hanks of 1000 meters length in one kilogram weight is called
the count of the yarn in this system . It is denoted by Nm .
No. of Hanks ( Hank of 1000 meters )
Count (Nm) = ---------------------------------------------------------
1 kg weight
DIRECT SYSTEM :
In this system the length unit is fixed and the weight of the yarn / fiber
varies as per its thickness . The following system are direct systems :

27.  Denier System
 Tex System
Denier System :
Weight in grams of yarn/fiber of 9000 meter length is called the Denier of
that particular yarn/fiber .
Denier = weight in grams of 9000 meters length
Production stages (from fiber to finished product)
Process Flow Chart of Textile Manufacturing
Spinning
↓
Weaving
↓
Dyeing +Printing+ Finishing
↓
Garments Manufacturing
This is the basic and primary flowchart of textile manufacturing. In this
article I will give flow chart of all branches of textile engineering like as
spinning, weaving, dyeing, printing, finishing and garment manufacturing.
Flow Chart of Spinning
Blowroom
↓
Carding
↓
Drawing
↓
Combing
↓
Drawing
↓

28. Roving Manufacturing
↓
Ring Spinning
Flow Chart of Weaving
Yarn from spinning section
↓
Doubling and Twisting
↓
Winding
↓
Creeling
↓
Warping
↓
Sizing
↓
Winding on weavers beam
↓
Weaving
Flow Chart of Dyeing
Inspection of grey cloth
↓
Stitching
↓
Cropping
↓
Brushing
↓
Singeing
↓
Desizing
↓
Scouring

29. ↓
Bleaching
↓
Souring
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Mercerizing
↓
Dyeing
↓
Aftertreatment
↓
Finishing
↓
Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Baling
Flow Chart of Printing
Inspection of grey cloth
↓
Stitching
↓
Cropping
↓
Brushing
↓
Singeing
↓
Desizing
↓

30. Scouring
↓
Bleaching
↓
Souring
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Mercerizing
↓
Printing
↓
Aftertreatment
↓
Finishing
↓
Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Baling
Flow Chart of Textile Finishing
Dewatering
↓
Slitting
↓
Stentering
↓
Compacting
↓
Final inspection
↓
Packing
↓

31. Bailing
↓
Deliver
Flow Chart of Garment Manufacturing
Design / Sketch
↓
Pattern Design
↓
Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting/Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
↓

32. Inspection
↓
Pressing/ Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Dispatch
Weaving
Types of weaves
Introduction:
Fabric are manufactured in wide varieties and design. And the different
design and effect is produced on the fabric with the help for various
mechanism which is helpful to from different weaves and lots of design
which enhances the look of apparels. The present paper was aimed at
investigating the different types of weaves and also overview the fabrics
come under the different weave categories.
2. Types of Weaves:
Weave:

33. The fabric weave or design is the manner in which the warp and weft are interlaced. The pattern or
repeat is the smallest unit of the weave which when repeated will produce the design required in the
fabric. There are many ways of representing a weave, a most familiar method being to use square
design paper.
There are different types of weave for the production of fabrics, such as:
1. Plain weave
o Basket/ Matt weave
o Ribbed ( Warp & Wet )
2. Twill weave
3. Satin and Sateen weave
4. Variation of Basic weave.
o Crepe
o Pile (Cut/Uncut)
o Double Cloth
o Gauze (Leno)
o Swivel
o Lappet
o Dobby
o Jacquard
o Tri-axial.
1. Plain Weave
The plain weave repeats on 2 Ends × 2 Picks. The plain fabric comprises a high percentage of the
total production of woven fabrics and it can be produced on a loom with two harness. IT has the
highest number of interlacing as compared with other weaves and therefore it produces the firmest
fabric.

34. 2. Twill Weave
Twill weave, the second basic weave is characterized by diagonal lines running at angles varying
between 15 and 75 degrees. A Twill Weave is denoted by using numbers above and below a line (
such as 2/1 Twill which may be interpreted as two up one down). There are sever types of basic twill
weaves, such as
(a).1/2 Twill (b).2/1 Twill (c).2/2 Twill. (d).2/3 Twill, (e).3/2 (f) 3/3 Twill, (g).4/4 Twill Etc.
3. Satin and Sateen Weave
Four or more shafts with warp floats or weft floats in interrupted diagonal. It is very lustrous,
excellent drawable. It shows floated fashion. Its has some subcategories as, Satin, Slipper satin,
Crepeback satin etc.