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EVOLUTION OF COSMECEUTICAL FROM COSMETIC
1. Chetna D. Kapgate , Bhagyashri D. Parshuramkar
EVOLUTION OF COSMECEUTICALS FROM
COSMETICS
Bajiraoji Karanjekar College of Pharmacy, Sakoli, Dist.: Bhandara, M.S.-441802
Rashtrasant Tukadoji Maharaj Nagpur University
Subject: Cosmetic Science, B. Pharm Final Year
Guide Name: Chandrashekhar M. Chakole
3. INTRODUCTION
COSMETICS + PHARMACEUTICALS = COSMECEUTICALS
Cosmetics:-
Yes, that’s a comprehensive definition of cosmetics. They are the products
applied to the body for cleansing, enhancing attractiveness, or changing aspects of physical
appearance, typically through rubbing, pouring, sprinkling, or spraying.
Cosmeceuticals:-
Actually, “cosmeceuticals” typically refers to products that combine cosmetics
and pharmaceutical properties. They contain active ingredients with medicinal properties,
offering benefits beyond traditional cosmetics.
Cosmeceuticals aim to improve the health of the skin and skin appearance, protecting various
skin issues like ageing, sun damage, and other degenerative conditions when applied
topically.
4. EVOLUTION OF COSMECEUTICALS FROM COSMETICS
•The Egyptians indeed were among the first civilizations to understand the potential
health benefits of cosmetics, while the 1980s witnessed a surge in the cosmeceutical
industry, largely fueled by the use of hydroxy acids, such as natural fruit acids, for their
exfoliating properties to address wrinkles.
•Raymond Reed, a founding member of the United States Society of Cosmetics
Chemists, is indeed credited with coining the term ‘cosmeceutical’ in 1961.
•Additionally In 1971, Albert Klingman reignited interest in cosmeceuticals by
formulating a solution with retinoic acid aimed at enhancing the appearance of UV-
damaged and wrinkled skin.
5. 10,000 BCE:-
• In ancient Egypt, scented oils and ointments served various purposes, including
cleansing and softening the skin, as well as masking body odour.
• These oils and creams also provided protection against the harsh sun and dry
winds of the Egyptian climate.
Ingredients such as myrrh, lavender, thyme, marjoram, peppermint, rosemary,
chamomile, sesame oil, and almond oil were commonly used in Egyptian
perfumes, especially in religious culture and tradition.
t
4000 BCE:-
In ancient Egypt, women used galena mesdemet ( made of lead and copper
ore ) and malachite ( a bright green paste of copper minerals) on their faces
for colour, while kohl ( a combination of burnt almonds, oxidised copper,
different coloured copper ores, lead, and ash) was applied to adorn their
eyes in an almond shape.
Chamomile oil
Kohl
Malachite stone
6. 3000 BCE:-
Around 3000 BCE in China, fingernails were stained using gum, beeswax, egg and gelatin.
During the Zhou Dynasty in ancient China, colours held significant symbolism, often associated with social class and
status. Royals and nobles were permitted to wear luxurious and vibrant colours such as gold, silver, black, or red, which
symbolized power, wealth, and prestige.
Subsequent Dynasties continued this tradition, with royals often opting for black or red garments to signify their status.
Meanwhile, lower classes were often restricted from wearing bright colours or certain luxurious fabrics reserved for the
upper classes.
This distinction helped reinforce social hierarchies and distinguish between different social strata within society.
1500 BCE:-
throughout history, various cultures have used different substances to whiten their complexions
or create makeup.
In ancient China and Japan, rice powder was commonly used for this purpose.
1000 BCE:-
Meanwhile in ancient Greece, people used lead or chalk face powder, and fashioned lipstick from
ochre clays mixed with red iron.
These practices reflect the cultural preferences and available resources of each time and place.
Chalk and lead
face powder
7. COSMETICS AS OTC DRUGS
OTC stands for ‘Over the counter drugs.
OTC products that incorporate active ingredients for physiological benefits beyond simple cosmetic effects.
E.g., An antidandruff shampoo serves both cosmetic purposes by cleaning the hair and pharmacological purposes
by treating dandruff.
Similarly, other products like antiperspirants, deodorants, moisturizers with added medications, sunscreens
with SPF, medicated shampoos and soaps for specific skin conditions, and anti-ageing facial creams combine
cosmetics and pharmacological properties to offer comprehensive benefits to consumers.
The FDA oversees the pre-market approval process, ensuring the safety, effectiveness, and accurate labelling
of OTC products.
This includes the inclusion of a drug facts panel on the label, containing active ingredients, drug purpose, uses,
warnings, directions, inactive ingredients, and other pertinent information for consumers.
8. COSMETICS AS QUASI DRUGS
Quasi-drugs in Japan serve various purposes such as preventing discomfort, promoting hair growth,
and exterminating pests.
These products falling between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, are regulated by the Ministry of
Health, Labour, and Welfare under the Pharmaceuticals Affairs Law.
They encompass items like oxidative hair dyeing products, depilatories, and acne creams among
others, with their ingredients requiring preapproval before being marketed.
9. References :
Sheikh Aijiaz, Deshmane Subhash, Biyani Kailash, A textbook of cosmetic science by PV publication.
Thakare Vinod , Introduction and evolution of cosmetics to cosmeceuticals slideshare.
Nanda, S., Nanda,A. & khar, R. (2022). Cosmetic Technology, Birla Publication.