Introduction and Evolution vof Cosmetic to cosmaceuticals

1. BP809ET- COSMETIC SCIENCE
Dr. Vinod M. Thakare
Professor
M. Pharm., Ph.D., MBA
Nagpur College of Pharmacy
Wanadongri, Hingna Road, Nagpur 441110

2. • Syllabus
• UNIT-I 10 Hours
Classification of cosmetic and cosmeceutical products
Definition of cosmetics as per Indian and EU regulations, Evolution of
cosmeceuticals from cosmetics, cosmetics as quasi and OTC drugs
Cosmetic excipients: Surfactants, rheology modifiers, humectants,
emollients, preservatives. Classification and application
Skin: Basic structure and function of skin.
Hair: Basic structure of hair. Hair growth cycle.
Oral Cavity: Common problem associated with teeth and gums.

3. • Definition of cosmetic products as per Indian regulation.
• According to D & C Act 1940 and the Rule in 1945 “Cosmetic is
define as the means any article intended to be rubbed, poured,
sprinkled or sprayed on, or introduced into, or otherwise applied
to, the human body or any part thereof for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the
appearance, and includes any article intended for use as a
component of cosmetic

4. Cosmetic products definition’ means any substance or mixture
intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the
human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external
genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of
the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning
them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting
them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body
odours.
(EU Regulation 1223/2009, Article 2.1.a)

5. • The assessment of whether a product is a cosmetic product has
to be made on the basis of a case-by-case assessment, taking
into account all characteristics of the products. Products
containing substances or preparations intended to be ingested,
inhaled, injected or implanted in the human body do not come
under the Cosmetic products definition.

6. • CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS
• SOLIDS
– POWDERS
– SOAPS, etc.
• SEMISOLIDS
– CREAMS
– OINTMENTS
– SAMPOOS
– TOOTH PASTE, etc
– LIQUIDS
– LIQUIDS SAMPOO
– ROSE WATER, etc
• GASEOUS
– AEROSOLS

7. Product Category Code Form- FDA 2512
• 01. Baby Products
A. Baby Shampoos B. Lotions, Oils, Powders, and Creams
C. Other Baby Products
• 02. Bath Preparations
A. Bath Oils, Tablets, and Salts B. Bubble Bath C. Bath Capsules
D. Other Bath Preparations
• 03. Eye Makeup Preparations
A. Eyebrow Pencil, B. Eyeliner C. Eye Shadow D. Eye Lotion
E. Eye Makeup Remover F. Mascara G. Other Eye Makeup
Preparations

8. • 04. Fragrance Preparations
A. Cologne and Toilet Waters B. Perfumes C. Powders (dusting and
talcum, excluding aftershave talc) D. Sachets E. Other Fragrance
Preparations
• 05. Hair Preparations (non-coloring)
A. Hair B. Hair Spray (aerosol fixatives) C. Hair Straighteners
D. Permanent Waves E. Rinses (non-coloring) F. Shampoos (non-
coloring) G. Tonics, Dressings, and Other Hair Grooming Aids H. Wave
Sets I. Other Hair Preparations
• 06. Hair Coloring Preparations
A. Hair Dyes and Colors (all types requiring caution statements and
patch tests) B. Hair Tints C. Hair Rinses (coloring) D. Hair Shampoos
(coloring) E. Hair Color Sprays (aerosol) F. Hair Lighteners with Color
G. Hair Bleaches H. Other Hair Coloring Preparations

9. • 07. Makeup Preparations (not eye)
A. Blushers (all types) B. Face Powders Foundations C. Leg and
Body Paints D. Lipstick E. Makeup Bases F. Rouges G. Makeup
Fixatives H. Other Makeup Preparations
• 08. Manicuring Preparations
A. Basecoats and Undercoats B. Cuticle Softeners C. Nail
Creams and Lotions D. Nail Extenders E. Nail Polish and Enamel
F. Nail Polish and Enamel Removers G. Other Manicuring
Preparations
• 09. Oral Hygiene Products
A. Dentifrices (aerosol, liquid, pastes, and powders)
B. Mouthwashes and Breath Fresheners (liquids and sprays)
C. Other Oral Hygiene Products

10. • 10. Personal Cleanliness
A. Bath Soaps and Detergents
B. Deodorants (underarm)
C. Douches
D. Feminine Deodorants
E. Other Personal Cleanliness Products
• 11. Shaving Preparations
A. Aftershave Lotion
B. Beard Softeners
C. Men's Talcum
D. Preshave Lotions (all types)
E. Shaving Cream (aerosol, brushless, and lather)
F. Shaving Soap (cakes, sticks, etc.)
G. Other Shaving Preparations

11. • 12. Skin Care Preparations (Creams, Lotions, Powders, and Sprays)
A. Cleansing (cold creams, cleansing lotions, liquids, and pads)
B. Depilatories
C. Face and Neck (excluding shaving preparations)
D. Body and Hand (excluding shaving preparations)
E. Foot Powders and Sprays
F. Moisturizing
G. Night
H. Paste Masks (mud packs)
I. Skin Fresheners
J. Other Skin Care Preparations
• 13. Suntan Preparations
A. Suntan Gels, Creams, and Liquids
B. Indoor Tanning Preparations
C. Other Suntan Preparations

12. • Cosmeceuticals means combination of cosmetics and
pharmaceuticals.
• Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active
ingredients purporting to have medical or drug like benefits.
• Cosmeceuticals are used to improve and nourish the skin
appearance and known to treat different dermatologic
conditions.

14. Evolution of cosmeceuticals from cosmetics,
cosmetics as quasi and OTC drugs
• The Egyptians were the first to recognize the health properties of
cosmetics.
• Up to the 19th century, there was no clear distinction between
cosmetics and pharmaceuticals;
• The separation occurred when the first modern pharmaceutical
industry was developed.
• Cosmeceuticals rapidly expanded in the 1980s due to hydroxy acids
(natural fruit acids) used as exfoliants against wrinkles.
• Raymond Reed, founding member of the United States Society of
Cosmetic Chemists, coined the term ‘Cosmeceutical’ in 1961.
• In 1971, Albert Klingman reactivated interest in cosmeceuticals by
developing a formula to improve the appearance of UV damaged and
wrinkled skin, using retinoic acid.

15. • 10,000 BCE:
• Cosmetics are an integral part of Egyptian hygiene and health. Men
and women in Egypt use scented oils and ointments to clean and
soften their skin and mask body odor.
• Oils and creams are used for protection against the hot Egyptian sun
and dry winds.
• Myrrh, thyme, marjoram, chamomile, lavender, lily, peppermint,
rosemary, cedar, rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame oil, and almond oil
provide the basic ingredients of most perfumes Egyptians use in
religious rituals.

16. • 4000 BCE:
• Egyptian women apply galena mesdemet (made of copper and
lead ore) and malachite (bright green paste of copper minerals)
to their faces for color and definition.
• They use kohl (a combination of burnt almonds, oxidized copper,
different colored coppers ores, lead, ash, and ochre) to adorn the
eyes in an almond shape. Women carry cosmetics to parties in
makeup boxes and keep them under their chairs.

17. • 3000 BCE:
• The Chinese stain their fingernails with gum arabic, gelatin,
beeswax, and egg.
• The colors are used as a representation of social class: Chou
dynasty royals wear gold and silver, with subsequent royals
wearing black or red.
• Lower classes are forbidden to wear bright colors on their
nails.Grecian women paint their faces with white lead and apply
crushed mulberries as rouge. The application of fake eyebrows,
often made of oxen hair, is also fashionable.

18. • 1500 BCE:
• Chinese and Japanese citizens commonly use rice powder to
make their faces white.
• Eyebrows are shaved off, teeth are painted gold or black, and
henna dyes are applied to stain hair and faces.
• 1000 BCE:
• Grecians whiten their complexion with chalk or lead face powder
and fashion crude lipstick out of ochre clays laced with red iron.

19. • COSMETICS IN COMMON ERA(CE):- 100:
• In Rome, people put barley flour and butter on their pimples and
sheep fat and blood on their fingernails for polish. In addition,
mud baths come into vogue, and some Roman men dye their hair
blonde.
• 300-400:
• Henna is used in India both as a hair dye and in mehndi, an art
form in which complex designs are painted on the hands and feet
using a paste made from the henna plant, especially before a
Hindu wedding. Henna is also used in some North African
cultures.

20. • COSMETIC IN MIDDLE AGE:- 1200:
• Perfumes are first imported to Europe from the Middle East as a
result of the Crusades

21. • 1300:
• In Elizabethan England, dyed red hair comes into fashion. Society
women wear egg whites over their faces to create the
appearance of a paler complexion.
• Some people believe, however, that cosmetics blocked proper
circulation and therefore pose a health threat.

22. • RENAISSANCE COSMETICS:- 1400-1500:
• Italy and France emerge as the main centers of cosmetics
manufacturing in Europe, and only the aristocracy has access.
• Arsenic is sometimes used in face powder instead of lead.
• The modern notion of complex scent-making evolves in France.
• Early fragrances are amalgams of naturally occurring ingredients.
• Later, chemical processes for combining and testing scents
surpass their arduous and labor-intensive predecessors

23. • 1500-1600:
• European women often attempt to lighten their skin using a
variety of products, including white lead paint.
• Queen Elizabeth I of England is one well-known user of white
lead, with which she creates a look known as “the Mask of
Youth.” Blonde hair rises in popularity as it is considered angelic.
Mixtures of black sulfur, alum, and honey are painted onto the
hair and lighten with sun exposure.

24. • 19th AND EARLY 20th CENTURY GLOBAL COSMETICS
DEVELOPMENTS:- 1800:
• Zinc oxide becomes widely used as a facial powder, replacing the
previously used deadly mixtures of lead and copper.
• One such mixture, Ceruse, which is made from white lead, is
later discovered to be toxic and blamed for health problems
including facial tremors, muscle paralysis, and even death.

25. • They are applied topically as cosmetics, but contain ingredients
that influence the skin’s biological function.
• Cosmeceuticals improve appearance, but they do so by delivering
nutrients necessary for healthy skin.
• Desirable features of cosmeceutical agents are efficacy, safety,
formulation stability, novelty, and patent protection, metabolism
within skin and inexpensive manufacture.

26. • Even though some products claim to be unique botanical extracts
or containing some rare ingredients with magic antiaging
properties, most of the cosmeceutical formulations use
fundamental ingredients
• such as peptides, retinol, coenzyme Q- 10, ceramides, alpha
lipoic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, aloe vera,
panthenol, kinetin and vitamins A, C,

27. • 1900: In Edwardian Society, pressure increases on middle-aged
women to appear youthful while acting as hostesses.
• As a result, cosmetics use increases, but is not yet completely
popularized.
• Beauty salons rise in popularity, though -patronage of such
salons is not widely accepted.
• Because many women do not wish to publicly admit they have
assistance achieving their youthful appearances, they often enter
salons through the back door.