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Adam ruins everything – how women were tricked into shaving their legs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTavR2PhsOY
• Plucked the history of hair removal – by Rebecca M. Herzig
This book talks about all the way that women would go just to remove hair and what
made them want to do this was the magazines that told them they had to do this.
Hardly any women shaved at all before 1920 but gillete played many tricks of
convincing women they had to shave for the first time in history, and when a teen girl
cut her leg while shaving it made national news. Gillete was the first brand to
manipulate women into shaving by advertising that in Europe being hairless was all
the rage however this was false information that later on got leaked, using slogans and
pictures to convince women that body hair was not allowed and therefore having to
buy razors and all the tools that you need in order to shave. Millions of women around
the globe trusted these magazines for advice, especially as more and more young
women were moving into cities and living their lives cut off from their families.
https://www.vox.com/2015/5/22/8640457/leg-shaving-history
https://nyupress.org/9781479840823/plucked/
Fast Fashion’s Effect on People, The Planet, & You | Patrick Woodyard | TEDxUniversityofMississippi
In the 1960s, 95% of our clothes were made in the US. Today, less than 3%
Mindful business: While working for a microfinance firm in Trujillo, Peru, Patrick was
introduced to the broken Peruvian footwear industry made up of over 100,000 shoemakers
who possess remarkable talent yet lack access to consistent work, fair-wages, and brand
access to established international markets. Having had extensive exposure to such potential
juxtaposed with a lack of access in other developing countries, Patrick developed a vision to
push the fashion industry in a new direction by serving as one of the first fashion brands to
deliver a superior yet ethically-produced product to consumers.
Patrick is the Co-Founder & CEO of Nisolo. Patrick graduated from the Croft Institute for
International Studies and Sally McDonnell Barksdale Honors College at the University of
Mississippi. His experience using business as a force for good has led him across the globe
ranging from Kenya and Uganda to Argentina and Peru.
How Social Media Has Changed the Fashion Industry
https://thefashionetwork.com/how-social-media-has-changed-the-game-in-the-fashion-industry/
In the past decade alone, social media has managed to quickly revolutionize virtually every industry in the world,
and fashion and fashion journalism are certainly no exceptions. Even the world’s largest news agencies have had to
transform the way their readers digest news, adding social media platforms to the forefront of their news
deliveries. In the fashion world, social media has brought connectedness, innovation, and diversity to the industry.
Instagram, for example, functions as a live magazine, always updating itself with the best, most current trends
while allowing users to participate in fashion rather than just watch from afar
Traditionally, before social media, becoming a fashion icon was next to impossible. Someone in the fashion
industry had to see you and think you were incredible. They had to build your brand from scratch. Unless you
had fame from other experiences, your journey entailed audition after audition, deal after deal, catwalk after
catwalk, and after all of which you would still only have the slightest chance of becoming a recognizable fashion
figure. But social media has changed the game
Social media has influenced the fashion industry more than any other industry. For the most part, fashion used
to be a two-dimensional, one-sided industry. Brands put their clothing in magazines and users consumed ideas
and inspiration by flipping through the pages. Models walked in fashion shows, and users hoped and prayed
that part of it would be covered on television somewhere so they could watch. The fashion industry created
the trendsetters and users followed the trends. Users didn’t have a say in what they were consuming, they
could only opt out of trends that they didn’t like. Social media has reframed this structure, allowing users to
not only consume fashion but to also contribute to it.
More than anything, social media has brought diversity to the industry. People who have felt unrepresented in
traditional forms of fashion media now have the opportunity to take matters into their own hands. They get to
follow who they want to follow and it is much easier to find people who they relate to in terms of body image
and lifestyle. Specifically, people of color and plus-sized who have previously had trouble spotting trends that fit
them in mainstream magazines are able to find online communities through social media.
The history of the fashion magazine
fashion magazines have been around ever since the Elizabethan age, however,
Back in the 1600s, The Treasure of Hidden Secrets was a publication that was created for “honest matrons and virtuous
virgins.” It provided tips on things like how to avoid plagues. It wasn’t until 1732 that the actual word ‘magazine’ was
introduced from the bookseller Edward Cave and it was under the reign of Louis XIV in France when the term ‘fashion
magazine’ made its first emergence, it started to illustrate of what the aristocracy was wearing which in tern made it
possible for dressmakers who lived outside of the court to have an idea of what was ‘trending’ in royal fashion. In the
18th century the Georgian era , when fashion magazines really began to take off. That’s because retail therapy started to
be a big part of the hierarchy of the richer women. Women were able to see images of ladies like them who were
involved in everyday leisure pursuits, although most of the focus was on fashions that were pleasing to men since a lot
of the social status of women surrounded representing the home which consisted od a one-income family. It wasn’t until
the turn of the 20th century where some impact was made from fashion magazines and this is from technology,
photographs and movements in social change provided women with a larger platform and more of a voice in print and in
life.
Elle, womens fashion magazine was founded in France in 1945 by Pierre Lazareff and his wife Helen Gordon and owned
by Lagardere group of France. Its name is the French word for “she.”
Fashion magazines are an essential component of the fashion industry. They are the medium that conveys and promotes
the designs vision to the eventual purchaser. Balancing the priorities has led to the diversity of the modern periodical
market. The oldest fashion magazine is the Harpers Bazaar which was first published on November 2, 1867. it was
published by Hearst Communications and it became one of the most famous magazines in the 19th century.
https://vocal.media/styled/the-history-of-the-
fashion-magazine
https://vocal.media/authors/patricia-sarkar https://www.britannica.com/topic/Elle-French-
fashion-magazine
https://news.artnet.com/market/a-brief-
history-of-fashion-photography-32620
The History of Fashion Photography
Though the earliest known fashion photographs date back to the 1850s,
the use of photography as an advertising tool did not become popular
until the early 20th century, when fashion itself became accessible to a
wider audience.
https://news.artnet.com/art-world/calvin-
klein-art-themed-ad-863540
Yes, Calvin Klein’s latest ad campaign features models in underwear—
nothing new here. But contrary to the sexually charged imagery that has
come to define the iconic American brand, the new ads depict models
posing in front of works by American contemporary artists. group of men
in briefs look at a Sterling Ruby tapestry, a man in boxers admires an Andy
Warhol silkscreen, and a man in underpants poses in front of a Dan Flavin
light piece. Other shots depict a jean wearing couple embracing in front of
an Andy Warhol work, and a denim clad woman smiling in front of a
Richard Prince painting.
https://knaptonwright.co.uk/social-media-and-fast-fashion/
Social media is one of the most influential platforms for Fast Fashion retailers. Consumers often crave fashion and lifestyle-related digital
content. Not only does this inspire consumers, it also entertains.
Many retailers now know to use this to their advantage. Fast Fashion brands have learned to fuse the worlds of social media and shopping.
Unsurprisingly, Instagram reigns supreme as the most effective platform for fashion brands. Many retailers post videos, Instagram Stories, and
include links to shoppable content. This allows users to smoothly transition from browsing to buying.
The Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF) is a not for profit network
focusing on social and environmental sustainability in the
fashion industry. According to the EFF consumers are “buying a
third more clothes now than they were 4 years ago.” With the
help from fast fashion retailers and the increase of collections
per year figures are set to rise again.
The whole process from design through to manufacture
has changed due to customers demanding on-trend items
of more quickly. Fast fashion retailers have speeded up
their processes because trend-savvy people can see
fashion shows instantly due to live streaming on mobile
phones. Thanks to live streaming on Facebook, Instagram
and Snapchat which makes everything so instantaneous.
People do not want to wait 6-months for a trend
anymore, the quicker a retailer can react to a trend
the better the profitably for the business. People that
are interested in fashion can’t necessarily afford
designer prices so this is how fast fashion retailers like
Primark and H&M fit into the mix perfectly – which is
all supported by social media.
https://digitalmarketingmagazine.co.uk/social-media-marketing/how-social-
media-and-its-influencers-are-driving-fashion/4871
No longer do fashionistas rely on the latest issue of Vogue to tell them what’s hot this season. It’s all about social media — what products
are online retailers pushing this season? What going out dresses are all your friends wearing in their latest tagged photos? And, what’re the
bloggers and influencers on your news feed into this month?
On a whole, millennials are thought to be less trusting of traditional forms of advertising — often perceived to be over-planned and
misleading. In the world of fashion, this means that magazines and advertising campaigns don’t have the influence that they once did —
they’re now seen as quite distant from the reader as many are aware of the editing that goes on behind one shot. Instead, peer
recommendations are more valuable and accessible than they once used to be. Of course, we’ve all heard of the power of word-of-mouth,
but with social media and its ability to spread at a rapid speed across countries, it’s more important than ever before. Of Instagram’s total
audience, 200 million users follow at least one fashion account. 45% of Instagram users in Britain say they follow these fashion accounts to
gain inspiration for looks they can buy or create themselves. Sharing their own looks is a part of this process too, with #fashion mentioned a
huge 13 million times a month and #ootd (outfit of the day) featuring in 140 million posts to date
Social media allows fashion companies to interact with their customers on a level that they could never do previously. Founder and editor in
chief of independent publication, the Business of Fashion, Imran Amed, says: “The one thing that has changed dramatically in recent years is
the direct relationship brands now have with their consumers. In this new hierarchy, the consumer has the ability to amplify or negatively
impact on business, through sharing positive or negative responses.”
One example of this is fashion shows. Once an exclusive event for the elite and top names in fashion, many shows on the catwalk can now be
viewed live by millions. Access to the designers’ latest fashion lines was often something that we could only hear about through magazines
and the press. Now however, we can keep up with the latest through monitoring the content attached to a hashtag.
When social media first became a global phenomenon, it was mostly about Facebook and Twitter. But, now there’s a new player on the
scene — and it’s taking over. Instagram reached 800 million monthly active users in September 2017 and these users have the highest level
of engagement (time spent using the app) compared to other social media sites.
The role of the influencer
Generating a wider conversation around your brand is important and one reason why many fashion brands have incorporated influencer
marketing into their digital strategies. The influencer economy of Instagram alone is valued at $1 billion and 94% of businesses said influencer
marketing was an effective campaign strategy.
Influencer marketing involves working with influential personas — for example, a blogger or user with a high social following — to increase
awareness of a brand or influence the purchasing patterns of a target audience.
For example, Adidas recently unveiled supermodel Kendall Jenner as its new Adidas Ambassador. With a total Instagram following of 89.2
million compared to Adidas’ 19.2 million, the partnership will significantly increase Adidas’ social reach and position the brand in front of
Jenner’s younger fashion following.
From a consumer perspective, influencer content is almost like a recommendation from a friend. Seeing the people we admire or look up to
wearing a particular outfit or using a certain product is a vote of confidence in a brand that makes us more likely to purchase the particular
product or interact with the brand in the future. This sense of community is something that brand accounts struggle to deliver; a third-party is
needed to validate the products for consumers.
Influencer marketing does not have to involve a celebrity partnership, although their high exposure levels and number of followers will
naturally help. It can involve any profile that can add value to a brand but generally, this value is measured in terms of volume of followers.
However, for maximum benefit, an influencer’s followers should be closely linked with a brand’s target demographic. Influencer
relationships can be expensive, so the associated spend needs to be justifiable — yet doing so can be problematic for fashion brands, when
you consider the difficulty surrounding success measurement.
Whether brands are able to gain a clear-cut measure of influencer marketing success or not, there’s no denying that building these
relationships does ultimately benefit fashion brands, through either increased exposure or sales.
Research found that 5% of the influencers that were offering product recommendations were driving 45% of social influence.
As we can see, social media has changed the face of fashion as we know it. We’re now more connected with our brands than ever before
and are proud to publicly post about the names we love. With the implementation of Instagram shopping already changing the process of
fashion retailing, who knows what the future holds?
https://www.raconteur.net/retail/fashion-influencers-
industry
https://www.raconteur.net/retail/fashion-influencers-industry
Influencers are also deepening their commercial ties to brands directly. Leandra
Medine, the founder of the online fashion blog-cum-magazine Man Repeller,
has reportedly invested in the young direct-to-consumer activewear brand
Outdoor Voices and underwear brand Lively and offers consultation services to
fashion brands.
Others are rewriting their contracts to swap retainers for equity. Lifestyle
blogger Arielle Charnas owns a single-digit percentage stake in Bandier and
frequently mentions the retailer in her Instagram stories and posts. She reports
that she has no agreed contract on how often she should mention the retailer,
allowing her endorsements to appear natural.
Successful fashion influencers, who have only ever earned their keep
through social media and paid-for content, aren’t just pretty faces with
great self-styling skills, but often also astute business people. Many
have a keen sense of the inside workings of the industry, particularly
its financial levers, and are continuing to challenge the status quote
when it comes to fashion marketing.
Fashion
trends
https://www.everydayhealth.com/skin-beauty/brief-history-fashion-
trends/
Fashion is essentially the most popular mode of expression: It describes the ever-changing style of clothes worn by those with cultural status.
A fashion trend occurs when others mimic or emulate this clothing style. Fashions vary greatly within a society over time, but also are affected
by age, occupation, sexual orientation, location and social class. Today, a fashion trend starts with fashion designers, who design a spring and
fall collection based on cues and inspiration they’ve gathered throughout the season. These cues can include popular culture, celebrities,
music, politics, nature or something else entirely.
Fashion in the 1960s reflected the cultural and political upheaval of the time. The hippie and counterculture movement gave rise to
accessories like Pocahontas-style headbands and medallions worn around the neck. Hippies wore long, loosely fitting clothing, often in
natural fabrics. Hemlines rose as Mary Quant popularized the miniskirt and hot pants in her lines for JC Penney. And mod fashion, with
brightly colored space-age geometric patterns, shift dresses and colored tights became the mainstream. Both miniskirts and mod-shift
dresses were worn with knee-high go-go boots.
Fashion has been and continues to be a reflection of society and current events. Fashion trends are influenced by popular figures in culture
like celebrities, musicians and other high-profile individuals. Current fashion trends are often cyclical, taking cues from decades past and
reworking them to fit within modern tastes. Clothing styles that were snubbed a decade ago are now enjoying a resurgence in popularity.
Just like disco fashion inspired the punk movement, mainstream trends continue to coexist with underground fashion trends. And trend
forecasting is now a profession; high-profile designers, writers and photographers rely on these tastemakers to predict the next popular
style, but this is no exact science. Even these trend forecasters, however, rely on some degree of instinct. And modern fashion trends are
less widespread and universal than they were in decades past. Today, individuality has come into vogue.
https://maggiesemple.com/the-evolution-of-fashion/
Fashion is a truly universal and all-encompassing topic. Many women can spend years finding their perfect wedding dress while girls as young
as seven are dreaming of becoming fashion designers, buyers, writers and now of course, bloggers. We are as much consumed by the sartorial
elegance of others as ever before, following our favourite style icons on Instagram and looking to fashion bloggers for inspiration. In that
respect, little has changed in all those decades with women feeling inspired by icons of their own era: the classic and androgynous style of
Ingrid Bergman in the 1940s, the reign of Twiggy and her spidery lashes in the 1960s and of course, the discovery of Kate Moss in the late
1980s at the tender age of 14.
Today, the fashion industry is a highly reputable, competitive and wonderfully influential business. Our searing dedication and interest in the
biannual shows at fashion week or excitement following the arrival of new season stock in Topshop has not wavered. Our commitment to
fashion and looking stylish still remains original and passionate, more than 100 years on.
The male gaze
The “gaze” is a term that describes how viewers engage with visual media. Originating in film theory and criticism in the 1970s, the gaze refers
to how we look at visual representations. These include advertisements, television programs and cinema.
The “male gaze” invokes the sexual politics of the gaze and suggests a sexualised way of looking that empowers men and objectifies
women. In the male gaze, woman is visually positioned as an “object” of heterosexual male desire. Her feelings, thoughts and her own
sexual drives are less important than her being “framed” by male desire.
A key idea of feminist film theory, the concept of the male gaze was introduced by scholar and filmmaker Laura Mulvey in her now famous
1975 essay, Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema.
Adopting the language of psychoanalysis, Mulvey argued that traditional Hollywood films respond to a deep-seated drive known as
“scopophilia”: the sexual pleasure involved in looking. Mulvey argued that most popular movies are filmed in ways that satisfy masculine
scopophilia.Although sometimes described as the “male gaze”, Mulvey’s concept is more accurately described as a heterosexual, masculine
gaze.Visual media that respond to masculine voyeurism tends to sexualise women for a male viewer. As Mulvey wrote, women are
characterised by their “to-be-looked-at-ness” in cinema. Woman is “spectacle”, and man is “the bearer of the look”.
http://theconversation.com/explainer-what-does-the-male-gaze-
mean-and-what-about-a-female-gaze-52486
Toxic social
media
Earlier this year, psychologists found robust cross-cultural evidence linking social media use to body image concerns, dieting, body surveillance,
a drive for thinness and self-objectification in adolescents. Note: that doesn’t mean social media cause the problems, but that there’s a strong
association between them.
Visual platforms like Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat deliver the tools that allow teens to earn approval for their appearance and
compare themselves to others. The most vulnerable users, researchers say, are the ones who spend most of their time posting,
commenting on and comparing themselves to photos. One study found that female college students who did this on Facebook were more
likely to link their self-worth to their looks. Interestingly, while girls report more body image disturbance and disordered eating than boys—
studies have shown both can be equally damaged by social media.
And thanks to an array of free applications, selfie-holics now have the power to alter their bodies in pictures in a way that’s practically on
par with makeup and other beauty products. If the Internet has been called a great democratizer, perhaps what social media has done is let
anyone enter the beauty pageant. Teens can cover up pimples, whiten teeth and even airbrush with the swipe of a finger, curating their
own image to become prettier, thinner and hotter.
What teens share online is dwarfed by what they consume. Pre-Internet, you had to hoof it to the grocery store to find a magazine with
celebrity bodies—or at least filch your mother’s copy from the bathroom. Now the pictures are as endless as they are available. Teens can
spend hours fixating on the toned arms or glutes of celebrities, who hawk their bodies as much as their talent.
https://time.com/4459153/social-media-body-image/
By now, we all know that the current social media system is broken. Healthy personal relationships are being drowned out by social media
flare-ups with the news (real and fake), sensationalized posts and a commoditized environment that values money over genuine connections.
A social media exodus may be coming. A recent Pew survey said that one in four Americans polled had deleted Facebook from their phones in
2018, while 42 percent said they’d stopped using Facebook at all “for several weeks or more” in the previous year.
Now, new questions abound: As people do start leaving big networks like Facebook and Twitter, what will they do next? Have they become so
exhausted from the toxicity that they’ll quit social media completely, or will they turn to alternative networks -- and if so, what will they look
for there?Clearly, people need a space to privately share their lives with their inner circles, while leaving the general media posts right where
they belong -- in social media.
https://www.entrepreneur.com/article/328749
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryiIv99sZZE
https://www.reddit.com/r/unpopularopinion/comments/dcqomk/the
_online_makeup_community_is_actively_enabling/
https://www.reddit.com/r/unpopularopinion/comments/d6jg11/actua
lly_profiting_from_being_an_instagram/
“When you see that an Instagram influencer has 500k followers, those 500k are the ones that you really hate. Followers, subscribers, fans,
or whatever you want to call them are the ones that enable and encourage the behavior you don't like. When you crack open YouTube and
the "trending" section has a video of a girl's make-up haul showing 2.1M views and you click to see what the fuss is about and it starts off
with a shrill voice saying, "HEY YOU GUYS...." the video wouldn't exist without you guys.
When you see barely-clothed girls on Instagram posing next to a tiny bottle of CBD oil, or a dude on YouTube doing a shoe "review" on
what's really a glorified advertisement with a description full of affiliate links, you might ask yourself, "Who the hell falls for this crap?" The
people you hate, that's who.”
Social media
#1: Facebook
#2: Instagram
#3: Twitter
#4: Tumblr
#5: LinkedIn
#6: WhatsApp
#7: Snapchat
#8: Pinterest
#9: Reddit
#10: YouTube
Facebook is a popular free social networking website that allows registered users to
create profiles, upload photos and video, send messages and keep in touch with
friends, family and colleagues. Instagram is a social networking app made for sharing
photos and videos from a smartphone. ... Similar to Facebook or Twitter, everyone who
creates an Instagram account has a profile and a news feed. Twitter is a free social
networking micro blogging service that allows registered members to broadcast short
posts called tweets. Twitter members can broadcast tweets and follow other users'
tweets by using multiple platforms and devices
Facebook
With the exception of adults aged 65 and older, Facebook is
used by a majority of Americans amongst all other age
ranges. In terms of gender, the demographics of Facebook
users is nearly split down the middle, but leans more
towards a female user base with 54% women and 46% men.
Plus, according to the Pew Research Center’s report, 62% of
all online men and 72% of all online women use Facebook,
further speaking to its reach.
Instagram
The Facebook-owned photo sharing app has grown in both
features and its user base since its inception in 2010. Since the
addition of Stories and IGTV in the last few years, Instagram’s
user base has only increased in size.
For starters, general Instagram user demographics include 35% of
all US adults with 1 billion monthly active users and 500 million
daily active users. Its Stories feature alone boasts 400 million
daily active users. Instagram leans towards a much younger
audience than that of Facebook, appealing to teens and young
adults with its straightforward, photo-centric design and ease of
use.
Twitter
As one of the last remaining social networks with a
chronological feed (for the most part), Twitter has stayed a
favorite for many of its users. Most popular with people in
their 20s, the breakdown of Twitter user demographics
shows that the platform is preferred by those in younger age
ranges. Perhaps surprisingly, Twitter demographics for
gender reveal that the spread of women vs. men on the
platform is nearly even.32% of 13-17 year

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Essay research (4)

  • 1. Adam ruins everything – how women were tricked into shaving their legs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTavR2PhsOY
  • 2. • Plucked the history of hair removal – by Rebecca M. Herzig This book talks about all the way that women would go just to remove hair and what made them want to do this was the magazines that told them they had to do this. Hardly any women shaved at all before 1920 but gillete played many tricks of convincing women they had to shave for the first time in history, and when a teen girl cut her leg while shaving it made national news. Gillete was the first brand to manipulate women into shaving by advertising that in Europe being hairless was all the rage however this was false information that later on got leaked, using slogans and pictures to convince women that body hair was not allowed and therefore having to buy razors and all the tools that you need in order to shave. Millions of women around the globe trusted these magazines for advice, especially as more and more young women were moving into cities and living their lives cut off from their families. https://www.vox.com/2015/5/22/8640457/leg-shaving-history https://nyupress.org/9781479840823/plucked/
  • 3. Fast Fashion’s Effect on People, The Planet, & You | Patrick Woodyard | TEDxUniversityofMississippi In the 1960s, 95% of our clothes were made in the US. Today, less than 3% Mindful business: While working for a microfinance firm in Trujillo, Peru, Patrick was introduced to the broken Peruvian footwear industry made up of over 100,000 shoemakers who possess remarkable talent yet lack access to consistent work, fair-wages, and brand access to established international markets. Having had extensive exposure to such potential juxtaposed with a lack of access in other developing countries, Patrick developed a vision to push the fashion industry in a new direction by serving as one of the first fashion brands to deliver a superior yet ethically-produced product to consumers. Patrick is the Co-Founder & CEO of Nisolo. Patrick graduated from the Croft Institute for International Studies and Sally McDonnell Barksdale Honors College at the University of Mississippi. His experience using business as a force for good has led him across the globe ranging from Kenya and Uganda to Argentina and Peru.
  • 4. How Social Media Has Changed the Fashion Industry https://thefashionetwork.com/how-social-media-has-changed-the-game-in-the-fashion-industry/ In the past decade alone, social media has managed to quickly revolutionize virtually every industry in the world, and fashion and fashion journalism are certainly no exceptions. Even the world’s largest news agencies have had to transform the way their readers digest news, adding social media platforms to the forefront of their news deliveries. In the fashion world, social media has brought connectedness, innovation, and diversity to the industry. Instagram, for example, functions as a live magazine, always updating itself with the best, most current trends while allowing users to participate in fashion rather than just watch from afar Traditionally, before social media, becoming a fashion icon was next to impossible. Someone in the fashion industry had to see you and think you were incredible. They had to build your brand from scratch. Unless you had fame from other experiences, your journey entailed audition after audition, deal after deal, catwalk after catwalk, and after all of which you would still only have the slightest chance of becoming a recognizable fashion figure. But social media has changed the game Social media has influenced the fashion industry more than any other industry. For the most part, fashion used to be a two-dimensional, one-sided industry. Brands put their clothing in magazines and users consumed ideas and inspiration by flipping through the pages. Models walked in fashion shows, and users hoped and prayed that part of it would be covered on television somewhere so they could watch. The fashion industry created the trendsetters and users followed the trends. Users didn’t have a say in what they were consuming, they could only opt out of trends that they didn’t like. Social media has reframed this structure, allowing users to not only consume fashion but to also contribute to it. More than anything, social media has brought diversity to the industry. People who have felt unrepresented in traditional forms of fashion media now have the opportunity to take matters into their own hands. They get to follow who they want to follow and it is much easier to find people who they relate to in terms of body image and lifestyle. Specifically, people of color and plus-sized who have previously had trouble spotting trends that fit them in mainstream magazines are able to find online communities through social media.
  • 5. The history of the fashion magazine fashion magazines have been around ever since the Elizabethan age, however, Back in the 1600s, The Treasure of Hidden Secrets was a publication that was created for “honest matrons and virtuous virgins.” It provided tips on things like how to avoid plagues. It wasn’t until 1732 that the actual word ‘magazine’ was introduced from the bookseller Edward Cave and it was under the reign of Louis XIV in France when the term ‘fashion magazine’ made its first emergence, it started to illustrate of what the aristocracy was wearing which in tern made it possible for dressmakers who lived outside of the court to have an idea of what was ‘trending’ in royal fashion. In the 18th century the Georgian era , when fashion magazines really began to take off. That’s because retail therapy started to be a big part of the hierarchy of the richer women. Women were able to see images of ladies like them who were involved in everyday leisure pursuits, although most of the focus was on fashions that were pleasing to men since a lot of the social status of women surrounded representing the home which consisted od a one-income family. It wasn’t until the turn of the 20th century where some impact was made from fashion magazines and this is from technology, photographs and movements in social change provided women with a larger platform and more of a voice in print and in life. Elle, womens fashion magazine was founded in France in 1945 by Pierre Lazareff and his wife Helen Gordon and owned by Lagardere group of France. Its name is the French word for “she.” Fashion magazines are an essential component of the fashion industry. They are the medium that conveys and promotes the designs vision to the eventual purchaser. Balancing the priorities has led to the diversity of the modern periodical market. The oldest fashion magazine is the Harpers Bazaar which was first published on November 2, 1867. it was published by Hearst Communications and it became one of the most famous magazines in the 19th century. https://vocal.media/styled/the-history-of-the- fashion-magazine https://vocal.media/authors/patricia-sarkar https://www.britannica.com/topic/Elle-French- fashion-magazine
  • 6. https://news.artnet.com/market/a-brief- history-of-fashion-photography-32620 The History of Fashion Photography Though the earliest known fashion photographs date back to the 1850s, the use of photography as an advertising tool did not become popular until the early 20th century, when fashion itself became accessible to a wider audience. https://news.artnet.com/art-world/calvin- klein-art-themed-ad-863540 Yes, Calvin Klein’s latest ad campaign features models in underwear— nothing new here. But contrary to the sexually charged imagery that has come to define the iconic American brand, the new ads depict models posing in front of works by American contemporary artists. group of men in briefs look at a Sterling Ruby tapestry, a man in boxers admires an Andy Warhol silkscreen, and a man in underpants poses in front of a Dan Flavin light piece. Other shots depict a jean wearing couple embracing in front of an Andy Warhol work, and a denim clad woman smiling in front of a Richard Prince painting.
  • 7. https://knaptonwright.co.uk/social-media-and-fast-fashion/ Social media is one of the most influential platforms for Fast Fashion retailers. Consumers often crave fashion and lifestyle-related digital content. Not only does this inspire consumers, it also entertains. Many retailers now know to use this to their advantage. Fast Fashion brands have learned to fuse the worlds of social media and shopping. Unsurprisingly, Instagram reigns supreme as the most effective platform for fashion brands. Many retailers post videos, Instagram Stories, and include links to shoppable content. This allows users to smoothly transition from browsing to buying. The Ethical Fashion Forum (EFF) is a not for profit network focusing on social and environmental sustainability in the fashion industry. According to the EFF consumers are “buying a third more clothes now than they were 4 years ago.” With the help from fast fashion retailers and the increase of collections per year figures are set to rise again. The whole process from design through to manufacture has changed due to customers demanding on-trend items of more quickly. Fast fashion retailers have speeded up their processes because trend-savvy people can see fashion shows instantly due to live streaming on mobile phones. Thanks to live streaming on Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat which makes everything so instantaneous. People do not want to wait 6-months for a trend anymore, the quicker a retailer can react to a trend the better the profitably for the business. People that are interested in fashion can’t necessarily afford designer prices so this is how fast fashion retailers like Primark and H&M fit into the mix perfectly – which is all supported by social media.
  • 8. https://digitalmarketingmagazine.co.uk/social-media-marketing/how-social- media-and-its-influencers-are-driving-fashion/4871 No longer do fashionistas rely on the latest issue of Vogue to tell them what’s hot this season. It’s all about social media — what products are online retailers pushing this season? What going out dresses are all your friends wearing in their latest tagged photos? And, what’re the bloggers and influencers on your news feed into this month? On a whole, millennials are thought to be less trusting of traditional forms of advertising — often perceived to be over-planned and misleading. In the world of fashion, this means that magazines and advertising campaigns don’t have the influence that they once did — they’re now seen as quite distant from the reader as many are aware of the editing that goes on behind one shot. Instead, peer recommendations are more valuable and accessible than they once used to be. Of course, we’ve all heard of the power of word-of-mouth, but with social media and its ability to spread at a rapid speed across countries, it’s more important than ever before. Of Instagram’s total audience, 200 million users follow at least one fashion account. 45% of Instagram users in Britain say they follow these fashion accounts to gain inspiration for looks they can buy or create themselves. Sharing their own looks is a part of this process too, with #fashion mentioned a huge 13 million times a month and #ootd (outfit of the day) featuring in 140 million posts to date Social media allows fashion companies to interact with their customers on a level that they could never do previously. Founder and editor in chief of independent publication, the Business of Fashion, Imran Amed, says: “The one thing that has changed dramatically in recent years is the direct relationship brands now have with their consumers. In this new hierarchy, the consumer has the ability to amplify or negatively impact on business, through sharing positive or negative responses.” One example of this is fashion shows. Once an exclusive event for the elite and top names in fashion, many shows on the catwalk can now be viewed live by millions. Access to the designers’ latest fashion lines was often something that we could only hear about through magazines and the press. Now however, we can keep up with the latest through monitoring the content attached to a hashtag. When social media first became a global phenomenon, it was mostly about Facebook and Twitter. But, now there’s a new player on the scene — and it’s taking over. Instagram reached 800 million monthly active users in September 2017 and these users have the highest level of engagement (time spent using the app) compared to other social media sites.
  • 9. The role of the influencer Generating a wider conversation around your brand is important and one reason why many fashion brands have incorporated influencer marketing into their digital strategies. The influencer economy of Instagram alone is valued at $1 billion and 94% of businesses said influencer marketing was an effective campaign strategy. Influencer marketing involves working with influential personas — for example, a blogger or user with a high social following — to increase awareness of a brand or influence the purchasing patterns of a target audience. For example, Adidas recently unveiled supermodel Kendall Jenner as its new Adidas Ambassador. With a total Instagram following of 89.2 million compared to Adidas’ 19.2 million, the partnership will significantly increase Adidas’ social reach and position the brand in front of Jenner’s younger fashion following. From a consumer perspective, influencer content is almost like a recommendation from a friend. Seeing the people we admire or look up to wearing a particular outfit or using a certain product is a vote of confidence in a brand that makes us more likely to purchase the particular product or interact with the brand in the future. This sense of community is something that brand accounts struggle to deliver; a third-party is needed to validate the products for consumers. Influencer marketing does not have to involve a celebrity partnership, although their high exposure levels and number of followers will naturally help. It can involve any profile that can add value to a brand but generally, this value is measured in terms of volume of followers. However, for maximum benefit, an influencer’s followers should be closely linked with a brand’s target demographic. Influencer relationships can be expensive, so the associated spend needs to be justifiable — yet doing so can be problematic for fashion brands, when you consider the difficulty surrounding success measurement. Whether brands are able to gain a clear-cut measure of influencer marketing success or not, there’s no denying that building these relationships does ultimately benefit fashion brands, through either increased exposure or sales. Research found that 5% of the influencers that were offering product recommendations were driving 45% of social influence. As we can see, social media has changed the face of fashion as we know it. We’re now more connected with our brands than ever before and are proud to publicly post about the names we love. With the implementation of Instagram shopping already changing the process of fashion retailing, who knows what the future holds? https://www.raconteur.net/retail/fashion-influencers- industry
  • 10. https://www.raconteur.net/retail/fashion-influencers-industry Influencers are also deepening their commercial ties to brands directly. Leandra Medine, the founder of the online fashion blog-cum-magazine Man Repeller, has reportedly invested in the young direct-to-consumer activewear brand Outdoor Voices and underwear brand Lively and offers consultation services to fashion brands. Others are rewriting their contracts to swap retainers for equity. Lifestyle blogger Arielle Charnas owns a single-digit percentage stake in Bandier and frequently mentions the retailer in her Instagram stories and posts. She reports that she has no agreed contract on how often she should mention the retailer, allowing her endorsements to appear natural. Successful fashion influencers, who have only ever earned their keep through social media and paid-for content, aren’t just pretty faces with great self-styling skills, but often also astute business people. Many have a keen sense of the inside workings of the industry, particularly its financial levers, and are continuing to challenge the status quote when it comes to fashion marketing.
  • 11. Fashion trends https://www.everydayhealth.com/skin-beauty/brief-history-fashion- trends/ Fashion is essentially the most popular mode of expression: It describes the ever-changing style of clothes worn by those with cultural status. A fashion trend occurs when others mimic or emulate this clothing style. Fashions vary greatly within a society over time, but also are affected by age, occupation, sexual orientation, location and social class. Today, a fashion trend starts with fashion designers, who design a spring and fall collection based on cues and inspiration they’ve gathered throughout the season. These cues can include popular culture, celebrities, music, politics, nature or something else entirely. Fashion in the 1960s reflected the cultural and political upheaval of the time. The hippie and counterculture movement gave rise to accessories like Pocahontas-style headbands and medallions worn around the neck. Hippies wore long, loosely fitting clothing, often in natural fabrics. Hemlines rose as Mary Quant popularized the miniskirt and hot pants in her lines for JC Penney. And mod fashion, with brightly colored space-age geometric patterns, shift dresses and colored tights became the mainstream. Both miniskirts and mod-shift dresses were worn with knee-high go-go boots. Fashion has been and continues to be a reflection of society and current events. Fashion trends are influenced by popular figures in culture like celebrities, musicians and other high-profile individuals. Current fashion trends are often cyclical, taking cues from decades past and reworking them to fit within modern tastes. Clothing styles that were snubbed a decade ago are now enjoying a resurgence in popularity. Just like disco fashion inspired the punk movement, mainstream trends continue to coexist with underground fashion trends. And trend forecasting is now a profession; high-profile designers, writers and photographers rely on these tastemakers to predict the next popular style, but this is no exact science. Even these trend forecasters, however, rely on some degree of instinct. And modern fashion trends are less widespread and universal than they were in decades past. Today, individuality has come into vogue. https://maggiesemple.com/the-evolution-of-fashion/ Fashion is a truly universal and all-encompassing topic. Many women can spend years finding their perfect wedding dress while girls as young as seven are dreaming of becoming fashion designers, buyers, writers and now of course, bloggers. We are as much consumed by the sartorial elegance of others as ever before, following our favourite style icons on Instagram and looking to fashion bloggers for inspiration. In that respect, little has changed in all those decades with women feeling inspired by icons of their own era: the classic and androgynous style of Ingrid Bergman in the 1940s, the reign of Twiggy and her spidery lashes in the 1960s and of course, the discovery of Kate Moss in the late 1980s at the tender age of 14. Today, the fashion industry is a highly reputable, competitive and wonderfully influential business. Our searing dedication and interest in the biannual shows at fashion week or excitement following the arrival of new season stock in Topshop has not wavered. Our commitment to fashion and looking stylish still remains original and passionate, more than 100 years on.
  • 12. The male gaze The “gaze” is a term that describes how viewers engage with visual media. Originating in film theory and criticism in the 1970s, the gaze refers to how we look at visual representations. These include advertisements, television programs and cinema. The “male gaze” invokes the sexual politics of the gaze and suggests a sexualised way of looking that empowers men and objectifies women. In the male gaze, woman is visually positioned as an “object” of heterosexual male desire. Her feelings, thoughts and her own sexual drives are less important than her being “framed” by male desire. A key idea of feminist film theory, the concept of the male gaze was introduced by scholar and filmmaker Laura Mulvey in her now famous 1975 essay, Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema. Adopting the language of psychoanalysis, Mulvey argued that traditional Hollywood films respond to a deep-seated drive known as “scopophilia”: the sexual pleasure involved in looking. Mulvey argued that most popular movies are filmed in ways that satisfy masculine scopophilia.Although sometimes described as the “male gaze”, Mulvey’s concept is more accurately described as a heterosexual, masculine gaze.Visual media that respond to masculine voyeurism tends to sexualise women for a male viewer. As Mulvey wrote, women are characterised by their “to-be-looked-at-ness” in cinema. Woman is “spectacle”, and man is “the bearer of the look”. http://theconversation.com/explainer-what-does-the-male-gaze- mean-and-what-about-a-female-gaze-52486
  • 13. Toxic social media Earlier this year, psychologists found robust cross-cultural evidence linking social media use to body image concerns, dieting, body surveillance, a drive for thinness and self-objectification in adolescents. Note: that doesn’t mean social media cause the problems, but that there’s a strong association between them. Visual platforms like Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat deliver the tools that allow teens to earn approval for their appearance and compare themselves to others. The most vulnerable users, researchers say, are the ones who spend most of their time posting, commenting on and comparing themselves to photos. One study found that female college students who did this on Facebook were more likely to link their self-worth to their looks. Interestingly, while girls report more body image disturbance and disordered eating than boys— studies have shown both can be equally damaged by social media. And thanks to an array of free applications, selfie-holics now have the power to alter their bodies in pictures in a way that’s practically on par with makeup and other beauty products. If the Internet has been called a great democratizer, perhaps what social media has done is let anyone enter the beauty pageant. Teens can cover up pimples, whiten teeth and even airbrush with the swipe of a finger, curating their own image to become prettier, thinner and hotter. What teens share online is dwarfed by what they consume. Pre-Internet, you had to hoof it to the grocery store to find a magazine with celebrity bodies—or at least filch your mother’s copy from the bathroom. Now the pictures are as endless as they are available. Teens can spend hours fixating on the toned arms or glutes of celebrities, who hawk their bodies as much as their talent. https://time.com/4459153/social-media-body-image/ By now, we all know that the current social media system is broken. Healthy personal relationships are being drowned out by social media flare-ups with the news (real and fake), sensationalized posts and a commoditized environment that values money over genuine connections. A social media exodus may be coming. A recent Pew survey said that one in four Americans polled had deleted Facebook from their phones in 2018, while 42 percent said they’d stopped using Facebook at all “for several weeks or more” in the previous year. Now, new questions abound: As people do start leaving big networks like Facebook and Twitter, what will they do next? Have they become so exhausted from the toxicity that they’ll quit social media completely, or will they turn to alternative networks -- and if so, what will they look for there?Clearly, people need a space to privately share their lives with their inner circles, while leaving the general media posts right where they belong -- in social media. https://www.entrepreneur.com/article/328749 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryiIv99sZZE
  • 14. https://www.reddit.com/r/unpopularopinion/comments/dcqomk/the _online_makeup_community_is_actively_enabling/ https://www.reddit.com/r/unpopularopinion/comments/d6jg11/actua lly_profiting_from_being_an_instagram/ “When you see that an Instagram influencer has 500k followers, those 500k are the ones that you really hate. Followers, subscribers, fans, or whatever you want to call them are the ones that enable and encourage the behavior you don't like. When you crack open YouTube and the "trending" section has a video of a girl's make-up haul showing 2.1M views and you click to see what the fuss is about and it starts off with a shrill voice saying, "HEY YOU GUYS...." the video wouldn't exist without you guys. When you see barely-clothed girls on Instagram posing next to a tiny bottle of CBD oil, or a dude on YouTube doing a shoe "review" on what's really a glorified advertisement with a description full of affiliate links, you might ask yourself, "Who the hell falls for this crap?" The people you hate, that's who.”
  • 15. Social media #1: Facebook #2: Instagram #3: Twitter #4: Tumblr #5: LinkedIn #6: WhatsApp #7: Snapchat #8: Pinterest #9: Reddit #10: YouTube Facebook is a popular free social networking website that allows registered users to create profiles, upload photos and video, send messages and keep in touch with friends, family and colleagues. Instagram is a social networking app made for sharing photos and videos from a smartphone. ... Similar to Facebook or Twitter, everyone who creates an Instagram account has a profile and a news feed. Twitter is a free social networking micro blogging service that allows registered members to broadcast short posts called tweets. Twitter members can broadcast tweets and follow other users' tweets by using multiple platforms and devices
  • 16. Facebook With the exception of adults aged 65 and older, Facebook is used by a majority of Americans amongst all other age ranges. In terms of gender, the demographics of Facebook users is nearly split down the middle, but leans more towards a female user base with 54% women and 46% men. Plus, according to the Pew Research Center’s report, 62% of all online men and 72% of all online women use Facebook, further speaking to its reach.
  • 17. Instagram The Facebook-owned photo sharing app has grown in both features and its user base since its inception in 2010. Since the addition of Stories and IGTV in the last few years, Instagram’s user base has only increased in size. For starters, general Instagram user demographics include 35% of all US adults with 1 billion monthly active users and 500 million daily active users. Its Stories feature alone boasts 400 million daily active users. Instagram leans towards a much younger audience than that of Facebook, appealing to teens and young adults with its straightforward, photo-centric design and ease of use.
  • 18. Twitter As one of the last remaining social networks with a chronological feed (for the most part), Twitter has stayed a favorite for many of its users. Most popular with people in their 20s, the breakdown of Twitter user demographics shows that the platform is preferred by those in younger age ranges. Perhaps surprisingly, Twitter demographics for gender reveal that the spread of women vs. men on the platform is nearly even.32% of 13-17 year