2. Steps 1 - 4
1. First 2 x 4 – Measure 4’ from end
and make cut with chop saw
2. Second 2 x 4 – Measure 4’ from
end and make cut with chop saw
3. Third 2 x 4 – Measure 4’ from
end and make cut with chop saw
4. Fourth 2 x 4 – Measure 4’ from
end and make cut with chop saw
3. Steps 5 - 12
5. First 2 x 4 – Measure 21” from
end and make cut with chop saw
6. Second 2 x 4 – Measure 21”
from end and make cut with
chop saw
7. Third 2 x 4 – Measure 21” from
end and make cut with chop saw
8. Fourth 2 x 4 – Measure 21” from
end and make cut with chop saw
9. First 2 x 4 – Measure 21” from
end and make cut with chop saw
10. Second 2 x 4 – Measure 21”
from end and make cut with
chop saw
11. Third 2 x 4 – Measure 21” from
end and make cut with chop saw
12. Fourth 2 x 4 – Measure 21” from
end and make cut with chop saw
4. Steps 13 and 14
13. Measure the length from the Outside Edge
outside edge of the circular saw
(side without the motor) to the Inside Edge
center of the blade
i. Take not of this measurement
(the saw in this example is
1 9/16”)
14. For every measurement using
the circular saw subtract the
length measured in step 13
5. Steps 15 - 17
15. Set up both sawhorses parallel
to each other and set the 4 x 8
piece of plywood on top of them
16. Remembering steps 13 and
14, measure from one half of the
green edge = 2’ – measurement
from step 13 (1 9/16”)
17. Repeat step 16 from other half of
green edge
6. Steps 18 and 19
18. Now there are two
Cutting Edge
measurements which will ensure (take notice of the half of the
you have a straight line; set up “V” we will be eliminating)
the straight edge with the clamps
(make sure the clamps are set
up away from the cutting edge)
i. The straight edge should be
placed so the right edge of it is
through the center of the “V’s”
(this is referred to as the cutting
edge)
19. Set the depth of the circular saw
to just greater that ½”
i. Helps keep wood from splitting Clamps
(notice they are away from the cutting edge)
7. Steps 20 and 21
20. Cut using the circular saw with
the outside edge of the circular
saw against the cutting edge
(keep pressure against the
straight edge to ensure you keep
your straight line)
21. Repeat steps 16 – 20 from
opposite side of the plywood to
create the face of the other
board
8. Step 22
22. Now take two of the 4’ – 2 x 4’s
cut from steps 1 – 4 and two of
the 21” – 2 x 4’s from steps 5 –
12 and screw them together
making a rectangle
i. Make sure the 4’ boards are
covering the 21” boards
ii. Use two 2 ½” screws at each
point that the 4’ board covers a
21” board
9. Step 23
23. Now attach one of the 2’ x 4’
pieces of plywood to the top of
the base created in step 22
using six 1 ¼” screws
i. Take the time to make sure
each side lines up perfectly
with each edge of the plywood
and everything should be
perfectly square
10. Steps 24 and 25
24. Flip the board over so the face is
sitting on the sawhorses
25. To create stability for the boards
later on, attach one of the 21” –
2 x 4’s to the center of the base
using four 2 ½” screws going
through the 4’ 2 x 4’s (two each
side)
11. Steps 26 - 29
26. Flip back over and put two 1 ¼”
screws into the board just
installed
i. Pretend to split the board in
thirds with two screws
ii. This will keep the board from
twisting and keep from having a
spring action during play
27. Now pick a 2’ side and this
becomes the top of the board.
Measure to the center of the
board (1’ from either end)
28. Do the same on the other end of
the board
29. With steps 27 and 28 a center
line is created. Measure down
9” from the top of the board and
this is the center of the hole to
be cut out
12. Steps 30 - 32
30. Set compass to a 3” radius and
draw a circle from the center point
created
31. Now drill a hole with the ¾” bit just
inside the circle that was just
drawn
i. This gives a starting point to cut
out the circle with the jig saw
32. Place the blade from the jig saw
inside the hole drilled in step 31.
Follow just inside the circle to cut
out the hole for the board
i. This step is by far the most difficult
job
ii. Practice is needed to run a jig saw
with confidence
iii. Practice on some scrap wood
before to get the hang of how to
turn the jig saw
iv. Staying just inside the line allows
for the edges to be sanded down
to the line
i. Although tedious, this allows for
a much better circle to be
created
13. Step 33
33. Inspect hole to make sure it
meets the correct dimensions
listed in previous slides and
shown on this slide
14. Steps 34 - 37
34. Cut a 20 ½” x 12” board out of the
4’ x 4’ piece of plywood using the
circular saw
i. This is the stand to be used later
ii. Needs to be straight so take the
same measurement tricks as in
steps 14 - 20
35. Drill 2” hole in board from step
34, 1” away from edge and in the
center
i. Used as a handle
36. Use the board cut from step 34 to
size the gap of the stand holder
i. Put it perpendicular to the face of
the set and slide the board from
step 34 next to the 2 x 4 and then
take another 21” 2 x 4 and trap the
board from step 34 between the
two 21” 2 x 4’s
37. Attach 21” board with four 2 ½”
screws
i. The board from step 34 becomes
the stand and gives the steady
incline to the playing surface
15. Steps 38 and 39
38. Again take the plywood and cut
two 1” x 4” pieces from it. Use
the jig saw to make it easier
i. These pieces don’t have to be
perfect
39. Attach to the inside of the bottom
of the board again using the
piece from step 34 as a guide to
set a gap
i. This will become the holder to
store the stand when the set is
not in use
ii. Attach each piece using two 1
½” screws
iii. Set 1” from bottom of the board
16. Steps 40 - 45
40. Sand the face of the board completely
with sander and 120 grit sand paper
41. Rub hand over sanded area and the
wood should feel completely smooth
i. No bumps or valleys in the finish
42. Paint or stain the wood
i. Each paint and stain is different so
read directions on the can to figure
out correct application techniques
43. Apply high-gloss/clear polyurethane
varnish
i. Again each brand has a different
application technique so read the
directions to determine the correct
way
44. Hand sand the last coat of
polyurethane with 400 grit sand paper
i. This gives the final finish a glass
smooth feel and will allow the bags to
slide effectively
45. Repeat steps 22 – 44 to complete
second board in the set
18. Steps 1 - 8
1. Choose two different colors of duck cloth
that coincide with the paint job of the set
2. Cut eight 7” squares out of each color
3. Place two square pieces one on top of the
other so that the edges line up
4. Use a sewing machine to sew three sides
of the square together
i. Be sure to leave one side open
ii. You can also choose to place glue in the
flap between the edges and seam if you
are not the greatest at sewing (will keep
from having the resin beads leak out of
the bag)
5. Turn the bag inside out and use the
pencil to push the corners out from the
inside
6. Measure the resin beads using any scale
1. Separate 15.5 oz. to go in one bag (this
will make the bag 1 lb. total in the end)
7. Sew the open side shut and you have a
completed bag
8. Repeat all steps for each bag and the set
will be complete
19. For Help
• For additional help with this
process go to:
• http://www.cornholehowto.com/
sew-up-some-bags/how-to-
sew/
• They have very detailed
instructions and excellent
pictures to go along with the
instructions
