2. Malini
Rockas
Josh
Kate
BUFFALO SQUADMeet the gang that are bringing back Buffalo...
MaliniVajaistheQueenofBuffalo
in the present day. Photographer/
stylist- she is shaping the face of
modern fashion and bringing
back the rawness of Buffalo. Ad-
woa Aboah revealed that Malini is
in fact her favourite photographer
to be shot by because of how real
and natural of a photographer she
is. Apparently Magazine describe
her as “always cute and ready to
shoot”
Introducing Rockas, the bitchy bad
boy. He’s one of biggest editorial
models of the moment and say’s
he believes all his influence comes
from the Buffalo movement- which
is what makes him such an inter-
esting charecter. Mixing sassy chic
with sexy dominatrix, he has cre-
ated this alter ego for himself that
mismatches luxury, glamour and
just the right amount of trashyness
to create a born diva.
Josh is not a new face to the fash-
ion idustry, but undoubibly he
has always refrenced “Buffalo” as
his inspiration and what he re-
flects in his work. He’s to die for;
but he has also proved that he’s
not just a pretty face- creating a
fashion documentry called “On
the Buffalo down” he has opened
the eyes of the public to where
the current fashion influences
came from- and givin it credit.
Fashion blogger Kate Ringer has
recently been in the limelight af-
ter certain celebrities such as FKA
Twigs and Lily Allen have ex-
pressed that they are regular read-
ers and suporters of the blog. Cov-
ering a mixture of street style and
high fashion- it’s easy to see how
Buffalo has found it’s way into her
own fashion sense and blog. Oh,
and congrats girl on reaching 100k
on your blog!
Photography: Darren Black
Stylist: John Williams
Models: Rockas, Mal, Josh, Kate, Azra
3. A maverick collective made up of photographers, design-
ers and artists, it is impossible to mention 80s youth cul-
ture without referencing Buffalo. The disruptive and radi-
cal movement transformed the way that society absorbed
fashion with a pioneering style that became one of the
most influential of the decade. “At that time, there was no
such thing as a stylist,” remembers Buffalo alumni Barry
Kamen of Ray Petri, the movement’s leader, who died of
Aids in 1989. “There were fashion editors, but the word
itself didn’t exist, so Ray created that.” Other founding
members included photographers Jamie Morgan, Mark
Lebon and Cameron McVey. The word itself was a Carib-
bean expression adopted by Petri, used to describe rude
boys and rebels.
Petri grew up in Scotland and travelled through India and
Africa before landing back in London in the late 60s. He
applied this tapestry of culture and sartorial landscape to
a youth-charged aesthetic that threw MA-1 flight jackets,
sportswear and Che Guevara hats with the decade’s lead-
ing fashion designers; Armani suit jackets with Dr Mar-
tens boots, tribal headwear and kilts. Music also greatly
influenced his work, inspired by Motown, punk and reg-
gae. Neneh Cherry, Culture Club and Soul II Soul took
Buffalo to the musical main stage, and its effect rippled
the world over.
The models used by the collective were also diverse –
street-cast characters that carried the clothes, not the oth-
er way around. “She was just a kid,” remembers Kamen of
Naomi Campbell. “She was just this nutty girl aged about
fourteen, but she was part of the crew.” Petri’s work was
daring, soulful, inventive and, ultimately, revolutionary.
It was the antithesis to the current fashion of the dec-
ade, and brought together a gang of friends and a style
that would eventually filter onto the catwalk, in the work
of Jean Paul Gaultier, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des
Garçons.
Jamie Morgan – “I found Nick Kamen in the model agency un-
der ‘black models’. I said, “This guy isn’t black, he’s half-Bur-
mese,” and they replied, “That’s as black as we go, I’m afraid.”
There just weren’t black models back then, so we found them
on the street, through friends and through word-of-mouth, we
never used models from agencies. It was about the way they
walked and stood, not just how they looked. It was about the
attitude, mixing genres and the idea of gender and models and
turning it all around.”
B U T W H A T I S ‘B U F F A L O’ A N D W H A T D I D I T C H A N G E ?
M O D E L C A S T I N G
W H E R E I T B E G A N
G E N D E R
S T E R E O T Y P E S
W H E R E I S B U F F A L O T O D A Y ?
Without us even realising; this movement has influenced fashion in an unimaginable way. Really, Buf-
falo is all around us and is now accepted as a normalised fashion choice- while wonse it was seen as
daring, controvercial and radical. Buffallo was almost too ahead of the times, doing all the things that
made so much sense, but that never seemed possible. I feel like the influence of Buffalo has become so
intrinsic that people don’t even identify it. It’s just the DNA of what we know.
Buffalo created the controversy of actually asking the
big questions in fashion. Why cant a man wear a dress?
Whats wrong with a girl having short, spiked hair? This
shaped and changed the fashion industry completely-
we now have big stars such as Young Thug and Kanye
West promoting men to wear “feminine” clothing.