Basic Skills- To use Industrial machinery efficiently, you should be able to select and set a needle; adjust the stitch length regulator, pressure regulator, and knee lift; Identify balanced tension and adjust as needed; and select appropriate thread.

1. Parts of Sewing Machine Needle
By Introcanvas
https://introcanvas.wordpress.com/
https://twitter.com/introcanvas
https://fb.com/introcanvas

2. Objective
By the end of this session we would be able to understand
 Selection of needles
 Part of the machine needles and standard needles
 Needle size and their relevance to the type of fabric and design

3. Selection of Needles
© All Rights Reserved 3
Basic Skills
• To use Industrial machinery efficiently, you should be able to select and set a
needle; adjust the stitch length regulator, pressure regulator, and knee lift;
Identify balanced tension and adjust as needed; and select appropriate
thread.
Setting the Needle
• In the apparel industry, there are literally thousands of different machines,
each requiring a different needle type. On most newer machines, the needle
type for that particular machine is identified on the machine head. However,
each needle manufacturer identified its needles in a different way; the
needles for the same type of system may have several different names or
numbers, depending on the manufacturer.

4. Directions
© All Rights Reserved 4
Begin with the power switch off. Hand wheel
until the needle moves machines; you will
turn the counterclockwise - the direction
operating.
Use a screwdriver or Allen wrench to loosen
the screw in the needle bar just enough to
release the needle.
Changing the needle
Remove the needle from the needle bar. If the needle is broken, remove
any broken parts that may have dropped into the machine. If part of the
shank remains in the needle bar after the screw is loosened, tap the
needle bar with the handle of the screwdriver. If it still does not Fall out,
turn the machine on, raise the presser foot, and stitch slowly until the
vibration causes the needle to drop out.

5. Directions
© All Rights Reserved 5
Dispose of the needle safely.
Note To make a safe container for disposing needles; punch
a small hole in the top of a discarded film container.
Check the new needle for straightness by rolling it on the machine table. If the needle is
straight, the blade of the needle will remain parallel to the table surface when it is rolled.
Check the needle point for burrs by running your fingertip over the point.
To check the needle and thread compatibility, thread the needle with a short length of
thread. Hold the thread taut at each end in vertical position. The needle should spin slowly
dawn and around the thread. If It slides slowly down and around the thread. If it slides too
quickly or does not slide at all, try a different size needle or select another thread.

6. Directions
© All Rights Reserved 6
Use your thumbnail to locate the long groove on the needle. This will help you to set the
needle correctly.
Hold the new needle between your right thumb and forefinger at the base of the shank
where the groove begins.
Locate the last thread guide on the needle bar. On straight-stitch machines, the guide is generally to
the left of the needle. Insert the needle into the needle bar so that the groove is facing the side
with the last thread guide (left) and the eye is in line with the arm of the machine. Check to be sure
the needle is inserted into the needle bar as high as possible.
Tighten the needle bar screw.
Tighten the machine and stitch slowly. If the needle is positioned correctly, there
will be no skipped stitches and no unexpected noises. If it is not set properly, remove
the needle and reset it.

7. Part of The Machine Needles
© All Rights Reserved 7
Butt: A small pyramid at the upper end of the shank. It is designed to make a single-point
contact with the hole in the needle bar.
Shank: The upper end of the needle that is held in the needle bar by the needle
screw. The shank is usually round, but it can have one or two flat sizes. Designed to
support and stabilize the needle blade, the diameter of the shank is usually larger
than the diameter of the blade.
Shoulder: The beginning of the shank just above the needle blade.
Blade: The thin section of the needle that extends from the shank to the
eye. It is easily bent and should be examined for straightness periodically.

8. Part of The Machine Needles
© All Rights Reserved 8
Scarf (needle scarf, clearance above the eye, clearance cut, or spot): A small
indentation above the eye that permits the hook or looper to pick up the thread
loop. On some needles, the scarf is elongated and/or deeper to ensure that the
needle thread loop will be large enough to prevent skip stitching.
Land: A small hump on the blade immediately above the eye. Used instead of a
scarf, its purpose is to enable the needle thread to make a larger loop and form a
stitch.
Eye: An opening in the needle blade at the lower end of the long groove that
carries the thread into the material to the hook or looper to make a stitch. The
size of the eye is proportional to the diameter of the blade.

9. Part of The Machine Needles
© All Rights Reserved 9
Point: The tapered end. It is often considered the most critical aspect of the needle.
The most common needles have a round point, a ballpoint, or a cutting point.
Generally round points and ballpoints’ are used for woven and knit fabrics because
they can penetrate the fabric by spreading the fibers or deflecting the yarns without
damaging them. By contrast, needles with cutting points are used for leather.
Tip: The part of the needle that pierces the material.
Needle groove (long groove): A g channel on the black it is located on the side on
which the need dread enters the eye a provides a Protective guide for the thread
when the needle is rising and the needle- thread loop is enlarging.

10. Standard Needles
Universal needle
© All Rights Reserved 10
Uses: Safest needle choice for most fabrics.
Configuration: Has slightly rounded point and elongated scarf
to enable almost foolproof meeting of needle and bobbin hook.
Troubleshooting: When fabric is not medium-weight woven,
consider needle specifically suited to fabric. For example, size
18 universal needle works on heavy denim, but size 18 jeans
needle works better.

11. Standard Needles
Ballpoint and stretch needles
© All Rights Reserved 11
Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater knits; stretch needle for highly
elastic fabrics, like Spandex, or Lycra.
Configuration: Both have rounded points that penetrate between fabric threads
rather than pierce them. (Stretch-needle point is slightly less rounded than
ballpoint.)
Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to
see which doesn't cut yarn and yields best results. If ballpoint skips stitches, try
stretch needle.

12. Standard Needles
Microtex and sharp needles
© All Rights Reserved 12
Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; precisely
stitching edges; and heirloom sewing.
Configuration: Has an acute point.
Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free, but fabric may
require a Teflon, roller, or even/dual-feed presser foot.

13. Standard Needles
Leather needle
© All Rights Reserved 13
Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather.
Configuration: Has slight cutting point (almost like an arrowhead).
Troubleshooting: On synthetic leather, unless it's very heavy synthetic, cuts rather
than pierces stitch hole and can tear leather. Most synthetic leathers require
Microtex or sharp needle.

14. Standard Needles
Hemstitch (wing) needle
© All Rights Reserved 14
Uses: Hemstitching or heirloom embroidery on linen and batiste.
Configuration: Has fins on sides of shank to create holes as you sew.
Troubleshooting: Stitch is more effective when needle returns to same
needle hole more than once. If needle pushes fabric into needle hole, put
stabilizer under fabric.

15. Needle Size and Relevance of Type of the
Material To Be Stitched
© All Rights Reserved 15

16. Classification of Needle According To
Point
© All Rights Reserved 16
Normal round point needle
They are used for woven
materials etc
Example; DB X 1
Light ball point needles
They are used for thin
material, silk etc., &
button hole sewing.
Example: DP x Si
Medium ball point needles
They are used for hosiery
material etc.,
Example: IJY 128 GAS
Heavy ball point needles
They are used for sewing
heavy weight materials
like rubber etc.
Stub point needles They
are used for sewing
buttons.

17. © All Rights Reserved 17
For more information on topics related to Technology,
Android, iOS, Windows, Mac and Study Notes, kindly visit
to Introcanvas