Garment seam and it's classes

Presented By
Md. Shamsuzzaman
B.Sc. (WUB), M.Sc. (BUTEX)
Lecturer,
Department of Textile Engineering
World University of Bangladesh
Contact: +880 1814 868653
Email: shamsuzzaman@textiles.wub.edu.bd
6/18/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman
Presentation
on
Garment Seam
Course Name: Apparel Engineering II
Course Code: TE 703

1. Definition of garment seam
2. Seam Properties
3. Factors of Seam Properties
4. Seam Types
6/18/2020Slide Prepared by- Md. Shamsuzzaman 2 of 23

The dominant process in garment
assembly is sewing, the best way of
achieving both strength and flexibility
in the seam itself as well as flexibility
of manufacturing method.
A seam is a joint between two pieces of fabric. More precisely we
can define the seam as
“Seam is a geometrical configuration of materials formed by
one or more plies of material achieved by stitching, welding,
adhesives or other means”.
Fig: Garment seam

Some special characteristics e.g.
water proof of seam should have, as
for required garments
Seam strength: Seam strength should be
equal to or a little bit lower than the
strength of the fabric in both direction
Elasticity: The elasticity of seams
should be equal to or greater than the
elasticity of the fabric
Durability: The Durability of seam should
be equal to duration of the use of the
garment.
Security: During the wearing of the
garment there should have guarantee so
the for normal reasons the will not be
opened due to the opening or breaking of
the thread
Comfort: The seam of some garment( e.g.
underwear, undergarment) should have
comfort feel.

Satisfactory;
Defect free stitch;
Defect free seam;
Expected, i.e. no fold of fabric along the fabric;
Free from seam pucker;

i. Seam Type: This is a particular configuration of fabric as
required.
ii. Stitch Type: It is most important point which deals with a
particular configuration of thread in the fabric.
iii. Feed Mechanism of sewing machine: This is the mechanism by
which the fabric moves past the needles and enable a succession
of stitches to be formed.
iv. Needle size and Type: The needle size and type should be chosen
according to the seam properties required.
v. Thread size and Type: The thread size and type should be
chosen according to the seam properties required, i.e. flame proof,
water proof etc.

1. According to British Standard (BS 3870-1:1991)
Basically Seam Class can be categorised into two ways-
2. According to American Standard (ASTMD Matrix 6-22-06)

According to BS 3870-1:1991, the eight types of seam classes are available
Class 1 – Superimposed seam.
Class 2 – Lapped seam.
Class 3 – Bound seam.
Class 4 – Flat seam.
Class 5 – Decorative/Ornamental seam
Class 6 – Edge finishing/neatening seam.
Class 7 – Applied seam.
Class 8 – Seam by single ply construction

1. Superimposed seam ( SS )
2. Lapped seam ( LS )
3. Bound seam (BS )
4. Flat seam ( FS )
5. Seam by edge finishing ( EF )
6. Seam by ornamental stitching ( OS )
The American standard ( ASTM ) divides seams into six classes.
Such as:-

Class 1 – Superimposed seam
 This is the most common & mostly used seam for
joining fabrics. In this seam, two plies of fabric are
placed on one another perfectly & then the fabrics
are sewn.
 The sewn edges of the fabrics remain in the same
side.
 It has over 50 variations.
 This class of seam can be sewn a variety of m/c. e.g.
Lock stitch, overlock
Usage:
1. Side seam of basic pants.
2. Side seam of shirts.

Variations of Super Imposed Seam
Simple Super Imposed Seam French Seam
Piped Seam

Class 2 – lapped seam
 This type of seam is achieved with two or
more pieces of fabric over lapping each
other.
 Two sewn ends of the fabric are in
opposite direction.
 Mostly two needle chain
stitch m/c is used.
 Seam under this class is very strong.
 At least two line of stitching are used
Usage:
1. Inner seam of long sleeve.
2. Side seam of jeans etc

Simple Lapped Seam
Lap Felled Seam
Welted Seam

Class 3 – Bound seam
• A bound seam is one piece of fabric encompassing the raw edge of
another piece of fabric. This produces a neat edge on a seam
exposed to view or to wear.
• The purpose of bound seam is to finish an edge of garment.
• Some time used as decorative purpose.
• The binder fabric may be different colours.
• There are 18 variation of bound seam.
Usage:
Toattach elastic in the edge of garments.
In Neck edge of basic T-shirt, waist
band, woman’s blouse, baby’s
nightgown, child bishop dress, camisole
etc.

Variations of Bound Seam
Simple Bound Seam
Bound Seam with extra components
Waist band seam

Class 4 – Flat seam
• Flat seam are constructed by having
two pieces of fabric meet precisely at
their edges.
• Zigzag stitch may be produced.
• Edgeshould be cleaned before sewing
to avoid fraying
Uses
Hem of knitted underwear.
For decorative garments
items.

Class 5 – Decorative/Ornamental Seam
 This type of seam is made by making one or more adjacent stitch
lines in one or more layer of fabric. The fabric which we used that
would be folded in several times and then according to the under
side of the folded part of the fabric stitch can be produced.
 This seam type consists of a minimum of one component.
 Multi needle sewing m/c is used.-
 Seam under this class are produced only for decorative purpose
Uses:
•Used in pant or other dresses, Cartains,
Table cloths, Furniture wears, Decorative
ladies wears etc.

Variations of Decorative seam

Class 6 – Edge neatening seam
 The seam of class-6- is called edge neatening which is used
to holds the edge of the fabric such that the yarns of the
fabric can not open easily.
 All the over Lock stitch is edge neatening class seam.
 It can be made by overlock m/c.-
 Extensively used
Usage:
In side edges of a pant’s side seam
Hems of skirt, shirt etc.
Button holes.

Class 7 – Applied Seam
o This seam class involves seams that require the addition of
another component onto the edge of a piece of fabric e.g.,
elastic braid onto the edge of ladies briefs. This type of seam
requires two components.
o They are mainly used to a decorative material to an edge of
seam such as lace-elastic.
o Similar to lapped (class-2) but the joined component is
extended limited on both sides from sewn line.
Fig: Applied seam
Uses:
•Joining of lace, elastic braid to shirts of
young people, ladies briefs etc.

Class 8 – Seam by single ply construction
 Mainly one piece of fabric used.
 The edges of the fabric are seam by
folding in various ways.
 Folders are extensively used to make
this types of seam.
Uses: Belts and belt loops.
Fig: Seam by single ply construction

https://www.coats.com/en/Information-Hub/Finding-the-Best-Seam-Type
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ha40gduU5g
www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/Seam-Type.pdf

The End

Garment seam and it's classes

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