Straight Long Seams The timekeeper starts the chronometer. Pick Up the 20”x5” plaid plies, align them and place them under needle. Take reference to any straight line on the plaid fabric. Start sewing by following the reference point and sew off at the end. Turn the fabric by 180 degrees and position it under the needle taking a new reference point. First try to sew straight with any number of bursts applicable to you and once you achieve this objective try to reduce the number of bursts. Continue the process 4 as many time as possible using the same fabric. At the end of this exercise you should be able to sew a long straight seam in a 1 or 2 bursts

1. Parts And Assembly Of A
Shirt
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2. Objective
By the end of this session we would be able to understand
 Straight Long Seams
 Attaching one piece to other using folder
 Placket facing attach using folder
 Hemming operations using folder
 Square/ round/triangle/diamond bottom pocket attachment
 Long & Short seams with needle down stoppages at corners

3. Objective
By the end of this session we would be able to understand
 Collar run stitch operation
 Top stitch
 Mock neck band hem
 Mock topstitch collar
 Sleeve Setting
 Attach Center Placket
 Pleat Gauge

4. Straight Long Seams
© All Rights Reserved 4
The timekeeper
starts the
chronometer.
Pick Up the 20”x5” plaid
plies, align them and place
them under needle. Take
reference to any straight line
on the plaid fabric.
Start sewing by following
the reference point and
sew off at the end.
Turn the fabric by 180
degrees and position it
under the needle taking a
new reference point.
Continue the process 4 as
many time as possible using
the same fabric.
First try to sew straight with any
number of bursts applicable to
you and once you achieve this
objective try to reduce the
number of bursts.
At the end of this exercise you
should be able to sew a long
straight seam in a 1 or 2 bursts

5. Attaching One Piece To Other Using Folder
© All Rights Reserved 5
The timekeeper starts the
chronometer.
Pick Up the body from the
left side on the table and
place under the needle.
Pick the facing from lap align
and place it on the body
under the needle as shown in
fig.
Start sewing straight by
holding and feeding the
placket facing with right
hand and body with left
hand.
While feeding ensures that the
placket facing is fed normally
while body is fed a bit tighter
in proportion to placket
facing.
Sew off at the other end
and dispose it in chain
until the bundle or lot is
completed.

6. Placket facing attach using folder
© All Rights Reserved 6
The timekeeper starts the
chronometer.
Pick Up the body from
the left side on the
table and place under
the needle.
Pick the facing from lap
and pass it through the
folder.
When placket facing
reaches the other end of
folder aligns it to the body,
match the checks and
position it under the
needle.
Start sewing straight by
holding and feeding the
placket facing with
right hand and body
with left hand.
Sew off at the other
end and dispose it in
chain until the bundle
or lot is completed.

7. Hemming Operations Using Folder
© All Rights Reserved 7
The timekeeper starts the
chronometer.
Pick Up the ply from left extension,
fold it to 1”at one edge as shown in
fig. and place it under the needle.
Start sewing straight by folding the
width with right hand and feeding
the fabric forward with left hand.
Sew off at the other end and
dispose it in chain until the
bundle or lot is completed.

8. Hemming Operations Using Folder
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Move the above chain-disposed
bundle to left side of you.
Take the first piece in the bundle and
feed it to the folder attached.
Start Stitching straight by holding the fabric
with right hand and feeding it into the folder.
Sew off at the edge and dispose in
chain.

9. Square Pocket Attach
© All Rights Reserved 9
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pickup the Front from Pickup bar and place it on
Machine Bed. Now Pick the Creased Pocket from Right
extension and align it to the marking on Front.
After Setting the pocket to Front,
position them under the needle at Point
‘A’ as Shown in Fig.

10. Square Pocket Attach
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Give a Back tack at A and start sewing towards B. At B stop
with needle down position turn the Pc by 90 degrees and
follow the seam as shown in Figure.
Sew with precision stops at all corners with needle
down position until Use reach the Position ‘C’.
At ‘c’ give a Back tack, Trim the threads and
dispose the front to center runner or Disposal
Bar.

11. Rounded Bottom Pocket Attach
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The timekeeper
starts the
chronometer.
Pickup the Front
from Pickup bar and
place it on Machine
Bed.
Now Pick the
Creased Pocket
from Right
extension and align
it to the marking on
Front.
After Setting the
pocket to Front,
position them under
the needle at Point
‘A’ as Shown in Fig.
Give a Back tack at
A and start sewing
towards B.
At B stop with
needle down
position turn the Pc
by 90 degrees and
follow the seam as
shown in Figure
Sew with precision
stops at all corners
with needle down
position until U
reach the Position
‘C’.
At ‘c’ give a Back
tack, Trim the
threads and dispose
the front to center
runner or Disposal
Bar.

12. Bottom Triangle Pocket Attach
© All Rights Reserved 12
The timekeeper starts
the chronometer.
Pickup the Front from
Pickup bar and place it
on Machine Bed.
Now Pick the Creased
Pocket from Right
extension and align it to
the marking on Front.
After Setting the pocket
to Front, position them
under the needle at
Point ‘A’ as Shown in Fig.
Give a Back tack at A and
start sewing towards B.
At B stop with needle
down position turn the
Pc by 90 degrees and
follow the seam as
shown in Figure.
Sew with precision stops
at all corners with
needle down position
until U reach the
Position ‘C’.
At ‘c’ give a Back tack,
Trim the threads and
dispose the front to
center runner or Disposal
Bar.

13. Diamond Pocket Attach
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13
The timekeeper starts the
chronometer.
Pickup the Front from
Pickup bar and place it on
Machine Bed. Now Pick
the Creased Pocket from
Right extension and align
it to the marking on
Front.
After Setting the pocket
to Front, position them
under the needle at Point
‘A’ as Shown in Fig.
Give a Back tack at A and
start sewing towards B. At
B stop with needle down
position turn the Pc by 90
degrees and follow the
seam as shown in Figure.
Sew with precision stops
at all corners with needle
down position until U
reach the Position ‘C’.
At ‘c’ give a Back tack,
Trim the threads and
dispose the front to
center runner or Disposal
Bar

14. Long & Short Seams With Needle Down
Stoppages At Corners
© All Rights Reserved 14
The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up two 20” X 5” plies (One from right extension and other from lap )
simultaneously with both hands, align them on one side and position them under
needle at ¼” from corner.
Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning plies using right hand and
guiding the fabric forward with left hand.
Continue stitching until you reach ¼ “ from opposite edge
where you stop with the needle down position.

15. Long & Short Seams With Needle Down
Stoppages At Corners
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With the needle down position turn the plies at 90
degrees and continue stitching, holding the fabric with
right hand and guiding it with left hand.
Repeat the steps 4 & 5 until you reach the last edge
where you sew off as shown in the diagram.
With trimmer on right hand cut the sew off thread and
dispose.

16. Collar Run Stitch Operation
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The timekeeper starts the chronometer.
Pick Up two Collar Plies (One from right extension and
other from lap ) simultaneously with both hands, align
them on one side and position them under needle at ¼”
from corner.
Start Sewing Straight, holding and aligning plies using right
hand and guiding the fabric forward with left hand.
Continue stitching until you reach ¼ “ from opposite edge
where you stop with the needle down position.

17. Collar Run Stitch Operation
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With the needle down position turn the plies
at 90 degrees and continue stitching, holding
the fabric with right hand and guiding it with
left hand.
Repeat the steps 4 & 5 until you reach the
last edge where you sew off as shown in the
diagram.
With trimmer on right hand, cut the sew off
thread and dispose.

18. Top Stitch
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The timekeeper starts
the chronometer.
Pick Up the piece from
Machine bed and place it
under the needle at a
distance of ¼ “ from the
edge.
Start Sewing Straight
maintaining a margin of
¼” until you reach ¼ “
from opposite edge
where you stop with the
needle down position.
With the needle down
position turn the plies at
90 degrees and continue
stitching.
Repeat the steps 3 & 4
until you reach the last
edge where you sew off
as shown in the diagram.
With trimmer on right
hand, cut the sew off
thread and dispose.

19. Mock Neck Band Hem
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The timekeeper starts
the chronometer.
Pick Up the fabric
From Machine bed
fold it at 3/8” width
at bottom end and
place this end under
the needle.
Now start Sewing at
a margin of ¼” from
the folded edge along
the required contour.
When sewing make
sure that the folding
is done precisely with
right hand and the
fabric is guided by
right hand.
Sew off at the other
end and dispose in
chain.

20. Mock Topstitch Collar
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The timekeeper starts
the chronometer.
Pick Up the ready collar
from Machine bed and
place it under the
needle at a distance of
¼ “ from the edge.
Start Sewing Straight
maintaining a margin of
¼” until you reach ¼ “
from opposite edge
where you stop with the
needle down position.
With the needle down
position turn the collar
at ¼” w.r.t the other
edge and continue
stitching.
Repeat the steps 3 & 4
until you reach the last
edge where you sew off
as shown in the
diagram.
With trimmer on right
hand, cut the sew off
thread and dispose.

21. Sleeve Setting
© All Rights Reserved 21
Set of guides for
joining the armhole
to the sleeve on high
quality shirts.
Adjustable margin
settings. Special
presser foot is
recommended.
Turns the sleeve up
as the body is pulled
over and stitched
down.
Produces a quality
finish and
appearance. Special
presser foot is
recommended.
Folder hems the
sleeve and joins it to
the body, using a
double needle
machine.
Compensating Foot is
used on second top
stitching operation.
Folder hems the
sleeve and joins it to
the body, using a
double needle
machine.

22. Attach Center Placket
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Attaches the center plait to the shirt body. Folder features a separate concave lining
track which allows easier starts for all types of fabrics and a tight finish around the
lining.
Used to make a one piece shirt front by hemming the shirt body itself. Folder features
a separate concave lining track which helps produce a tight finish.
A variation of the imitation Center Front Folder for use on Men's and ladies' sport
shirts. The top of the front conceals the button hole which is sewn on the bottom
tuck.

23. Attach Center Placket
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Sometimes referred to as "Horn Type Top Center" or "Wrap Folder".
Used to sew a front, primarily on ladies' dress shirts and "pullover"
type sport shirts.

24. © All Rights Reserved 24
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