Jacquard loom is a mechanical loom that produces elaborate design in an complex weave. 1. Scope of Jacquard Shedding 2. Classification of jacquard Broadly: Ordinary jacquard Special jacquard According to lift and no. of pattern cylinder: Single lift single cylinder jacquard Double lift single cylinder jacquard Double lift double cylinder jacquard According to figuring capacity: 100’s, 200’s, 300’s (100’s………………………..1800’s +) According to type of shed : Bottom close shed jacquard Centre close shed jacquard Semi-open shed jacquard Open shed jacquard According to pitch of jacquard : Fine pitch jacquard Medium pitch jacquard Coarse pitch jacquard According to position of jacquard : Vertical Horizontal 4. What is JACQUARD Shedding 5. Description on Single Lift and Single Cylinder (SLSC) and 6. Description on double lift and single cylinder (DLSC) 7. References

1. Jacquard shedding mechanism
Prepared by
SK M Sadiqul Islam,
BSc. Engineer in Textile
(Auditor at Renowned MNC Buying House)
University ID : 2013-01-02-020
Department of Fabric Engineering.
BUTEX-Bangladesh University of Textiles

2. Jacquard loom :
Jacquard loom is a
mechanical loom that
produces elaborate
design in an complex
weave.
It was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard

3. Scope of Jacquard Shedding:
• It can be used for a large design which cannot be positive on tappet or dobby. It can
produce most complex or any design.
• It can produce any shape of design.
• One warp thread for each harness.
• Most costly fabric is produced. (Costing: Jacquard>Dobby>Tappet).
• No heald shaft is used.
• Every thread is controlled individually.
• It is possible to lift 2000-3000 yarns at any instant.
– A dobby shedding cannot be used suitably for producing beautiful and intricate
(Complex) ornamental designs in forms and colors, in which a large number of
warp threads are required to be controlled individually and in such case a
jacquard shedding is used.
– Jacquard shedding is however, an extensive form of weaving – as it is
accompanied with designing, card cutting, lacing and all other jobs associated
with.
– Speed : Jacquard<Dobby and Tappet.

4. Classification of jacquard :
1. Broadly:
(a) Ordinary jacquard
(b) Special jacquard
2. According to lift and no. of pattern cylinder:
(a) Single lift single cylinder jacquard
(b) Double lift single cylinder jacquard
(c) Double lift double cylinder jacquard
3. According to figuring capacity:
100’s, 200’s, 300’s (100’s………………………..1800’s +)

5. Classification of jacquard :
3. According to type of shed :
(a) Bottom close shed jacquard
(b) Centre close shed jacquard
(c) Semi-open shed jacquard
(d) Open shed jacquard
4. According to pitch of jacquard :
(a) Fine pitch jacquard
(b) Medium pitch jacquard
(c) Coarse pitch jacquard
5. According to position of jacquard :
(a) Vertical
(b) Horizontal

6. What is JACQUARD Shedding
The jacquard is a shedding device attached to
the top of the hand loom or power loom and
controls a large number of warp threads with a
view to produce the maximum variety of
sheds(without any heald shaft)for beautiful and
intricate ornamental large design fabrics .

7. Single lift & single cylinder (SLSC)
jacquard

9. Figure shows the simplified side view of SLSC jacquard.
If the machine has the capacity to handle 300 ends
independently, then it requires 300 hooks (one per end)
which are vertically arranged and 300 needles (one per
hook) which are horizontally arranged. For example, the
needles can be arranged six rows and each row will have
50 needles. In the side view, only six needles (one per
horizontal row) are visible. Hooks, which are connected
to individual ends through nylon cord, are also arranged
in six rows and each row is having 50 hooks. One knife
is responsible for controlling the movement ((lifting and
lowering) of one row of hooks.

10. However, whether a hook will be lifted or not will be ascertained
by the selection mechanism which is basically a punched card
and mounted on a revolving cylinder. The needles are connected
with springs at the opposite of the cylinder. Therefore, the
needle always exert a pressure in the right hand side direction
(Figure). So, if there is a hole in the punch card corresponding to
the position of a needle, then the needle will be able to pass
through the hole and thus the needle will remain in upright
position thus making it accessible to the knife when the latter
has started its upward movement after descending to the lowest
height. On the other hand, if there is no hole, then the needle
will be pressed towards the left side against the spring pressure.
Thus the kink (which partially circumscribes the stem of a hook)
present in the needle presses the hook towards the left side
making the latter tilted enough from the vertical plane so that
the knife will miss it while moving upward. Therefore, presence
of a hole implies selection (ends up) and vice versa. A hole in this
case is tantamount with a peg used on the lag of dobby shedding
system.

11. If the loom speed is 300 picks per minute then in
case of SLSC jacquard, the cylinder will turn 300
times per minute (5 times per second) and the
knives should also reciprocate (up and down) 300
times per minute. Thus it hinders the high picks per
minute. When a particular hook (and the
corresponding end) has to be in up position in two
consecutive picks, in between the two peaks, in
descends to its lowest possible height (determined
by the grate) and then moves up again. Thus it
produces bottom closed shed. This happens as one
end is controlled by a single hook.

12. Features of SLSC jacquard
500 end machine will have 500 needles and
500 hooks
Cylinder should turn in every pick
Knives must rise and fall in every pick
Bottom closed shed is produced

13. Conclusion
By this mechanism we learn how jacquard
mechanism work and how it produce decorate
design by using yarn individually. Moreover it is
a very helpful and important practical for our
textile life.

14. Double lift and single cylinder (DLSC)
jacquard
 In double lift and single cylinder jacquard, one end is controlled by two hooks which are again controlled by a
single needle. Two sets of knives are used in DLSCjacquard and they move up and down in complete phase
difference i.e. when one set of knives attain the highest position, the other set of knives attain the lowest position.
At the given position, end 1 has been raised as the hook 1 has been lifted by the corresponding knife. However,
end 2 has not been raised. In the next pick, end 1 will descend to the bottom position as the needle has been
pressed towards the left due to the absence of a hole in the punch card. On the other hand, end 2 will be raised in
the next pick as there is a hole in the punch card corresponding to the position of the respective needle.
 If the loom speed is 300 picks per minute then in case of SLSCjacquard, the cylinder will turn 300 times per
minute but the knives will reciprocate (up and down) 150 times per minute. This is the advantage of DLDC
jacquard over SLSCjacquard.
 DLDCjacquard produces semi open shed because if a particular end has to be in raised position for two
consecutive pick, it will come down up to the middle point of its vertical path and then move up. This will happen
because one of the hooks will descend and the other hook will move up and they will cross at the middle of their
vertical path. If the end has to remain in bottom position for two consecutive picks, it will remain at the bottom
without any intermediate movement.

15. Double lift and single cylinder (DLSC)
jacquard

16. Features of SLSC
jacquard
 500 end machine will have 500 needle and 1000 hooks
 Two sets of knives rise and fall in opposite phase
 Cycles of movement of one knife spans over two picks
 Cylinder should turn in every pick
 Semi open shed is produced

17. Advantage & Disadvantage :
Advantage :
• Tremendous design possibilities,
• Simpler in principle than dobbies.
Disadvantage :
• Large scale moving parts makes the machine and its harness relatively costly to install and
maintain.
• Jacquard fabrics are much more costly to produce.
• Jacquard machines are even more liable to produce faults in the fabric than dobbies.
• Pattern change is a time consuming process.
• Until recently, the jacquard machine had tended to impose limitations (300 picks/min )
• Jacquard shedding is normally used only when the cloths to be woven are outside the scope of
dobby shedding.

18. Differences between Jacquard shedding, Dobby
shedding and Tappet shedding:
Jacquard shedding Dobby shedding Tappet shedding
1. Most complex
mechanism.
1. Quite complex
mechanism.
1. Simple mechanism.
2. Installation cost is
high.
2. Installation cost is
medium.
2. Installation cost is low.
3. 2-1000 yarns can be
controlled collectively.
3. 2-36 yarns can be
controlled collectively.
3. 2-8 yarns can be
controlled collectively.
4. Jacquard is placed
generally above the
loom.
4. Dobby is placed
generally above the
loom
4. Tappet is placed
generally below the
loom.
5. It can produce any
shape of design.
5. It can produce square
and rectangular design
5. In can produce basic
design.
6. Harness cord used. 6. Heald shaft used. 6. Heald shaft used.
7. Less production. 7. Less production. 7. Production is more
than dobby shedding.

19. References List :
• http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/06/characteristics-of-
jacquard-mechanisms.html
• http://textileup.blogspot.com/2014/11/jacquard-weaving.html
• https://books.google.com.bd/books?id=SshI5QYlgKMC&pg=PA153
&lpg=PA153&dq=single+cylinder+jacquard+mechanism&source=bl
&ots=MtjtPL-
qhR&sig=nNFxlCkFc2efOuB6SnpmJIy3Nr8&hl=en&sa=X&redir_esc
=y
• https://archive.org/stream/jacquardmechanis00brad/jacquardmecha
nis00brad_djvu.txt
• https://www.slideshare.net/K.K.Khuhro/shedding-types-dobby-tappet-
and-jacquard