ITU Fabric Design course term project. This study was prepared by Esin Yegin, Sinem Atasoy and Berrak Arıkan.

1. Istanbul Technical
University
Textile Engineering
Fabric Design Term Paper
Hand loom weaving and NedGraphics software
preperations
Instructor: Burçak Karagüzel Kayaoğlu
Berrak Arıkan 140120036
Sinem Atasoy 140120063
Esin Yegin 140120069

2. Weaving process requires detailed preparations before starting the manufacture. In this paper, we are
going to explain the process of hand-loom weaving including especially preparation, calculations and
practice by using NedGraphics software and manually. Like weaving machines(with power), hand looms are
also requires the pre-treatments like plans, calculations etc. Parts and working principle of hand-loom can be
explained like that; There is a treadle which lifts the harnesses, buttons on the machine which turns
harnesses active or passive position(This is done by manually. A person should follow the lifting plan and
choose the right harnesses after every weft insertion). After the harnesses are prepared, a person push treadle
so shedding motion occurs then weft yarn insertion should be done. This movement is called picking. After
picking, harnesses are put down and beating-up motion should done. This sequence is repeated and the
fabric is obtained. A lot of preparation is required before begin this process. To have the desired
characteristic of the fabric, all the calculations and preparations should be done very sensitively and all the
steps of the process should be under control. So Nedgraphics software serve the purpose of simulation of the
fabric before it is weaved. All the parameters, designs and colors are entered to the programme and
Nedgraphics helps planning of the weaving process also gives the opinion of the end product.
First, the DID, weaving, lifting and reed plans should be done primarily. After that plans, proper
warp and weft yarn types should be chosen according to fabric’s end uses. Our fabric’s end use is coat, so
we choose coarser yarns for warp and weft to achieve our target fabric handle. Our yarns raw materials are
wool for warp and weft. Next, total number of ends should be calculated and warping process should be
done. This process takes approximately 2 hours however, yarns are ready to be fixed to the hand loom. After
transferring the yarns to the hand loom every single yarn must pass through the heddle eyes. To be able to
do this process, needed number of heddle eyes should be attach to de harnesses. Then yarns are passed
through the heddle eyes in a sequence so when doing this people have to be make sure that the order of
heddle eyes on each harnesses should be regular. After that, yarns attached to the reed according to reed
plan(number of ends/dent should be calculated). This process takes about 3 hours in total. Hand loom is
ready for weaving a fabric now.
Next, for weaving weft yarn is needed. Hand loom works with the shuttle so weft yarns are inserted
with the shuttle. A small reel is wrapped by weft yarns and put on the shuttle. After the shedding motion,

3. shuttle is inserted between two pieces of yarns with lateral movement. Because of the having shuttle, fabric
has exact selvages on the sides. Warp yarns are exposed high tension so they have to breast the tension. For
our warps, they have enough twist number and have enough elasticity so during weaving none of our warp
yarns are break. We start weaving our fabric with the sequence of shedding-picking-beating up motions.
According to lifting plan every time after beating up motion harnesses are changed. For having a regular
structure we try to apply the same force when doing beating up motion. Before inserting the weft yarn, we
make sure that two layer of yarns are right position otherwise fabric will has faults on its surface.
After weaving, two piece of 25x25 cm fabrics are obtained. One of them using for laboratory
analysis and the other one for homework sample. On the other hand, fabric has a constant width and constant
density. It has gray and purple color in warp and weft yarns. Furthermore, values which theoretical and the
actual ones are close each other. Our error ratio is reduced because of this reason.
To sum up, fabric structure and appearance overlapped with the expected values. Also nedgraphics
simulation is very similar to the exact fabric.

4. Theoretical Calculations
Yarn counts;
Warp yarn count: Error! = Nm 8.75 = Ne 5.16
Weft yarn count: Error! = Nm 8.75 = Ne 5.16
dwarp = Error! = 0.0399 cm dweft = Error! = 0.0399 cm
Warp crimp: 6% Weft crimp: 8%
Maximum theoretical warp density;
Repeat= 16.928 d1 = 0.675 cm
14 yarns in 0.675cm
? at 1cm
20.70 ends/cm
Also weft density is the same because their yarn counts are the same.
So we decide to take warp density as 20 ends/cm and weft density as 19 picks/cm
Total number of ends;

5. Selvage ends: 0.5cm x 2 x24 ends/cm = 24 ends
Base ends: 24cm x 20 ends/cm = 480 ends
Total number of ends: base ends + selvage ends = 480 + 24 = 504 ends
Reed calculations;
Reeded width: 25cm x 1.08 = 27cm
Reed number: Error!= 186,66 190
2d1=0.0798 cm
 For 1 ends/dent:
0.0337cm<0.0798 cm (not sufficient)
 For 2 ends/dent:
95 dents in 10cm
1 dents in ?
0.105cm x 0.66
=
0.069cm
space
0.0694cm< 0.0798 cm (not sufficient)
 For 3ends/dent:
65 dents in 10cm
1 dents in ?
0.153cm x 0.66
= 0.1009cm space
0.10098cm >0.0798 cm (feasible)
Cover factor calculations;
190 dents in 10 cm
1 dent in ?
0.0526cm x 0.66
=
0.0347cm
space

6. c1 = n1 x d1 = 20 x 0.0399 = 0.798
c2 = n2 x d2 = 19 x 0.0399 = 0.758
cfabric = 0.798 + 0.758 – (0.798 x 0.758) = 0.9511
= 95.11%
8

7. 7
6
5
4
3
2
1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

9. I.T.U. Textile Eng.
Date: 23.12.2015
Name: Sinem Atasoy
Berrak Arıkan
Esin Yegin
FABRIC ANALYSIS
YARN RAW MATERIAL
Warp Wool
Weft Wool
Yarn
TYPE
Warp Ring yarn
Weft Ring yarn
COUNT
Warp Nm 8.75
Weft Nm 8.75
TM and direction
Warp 750 Z
Weft 650 S
OTHER
Warp Dyed yarn
Weft Dyed yarn
Fabric
DENSITY
(cm)
Greige
Warp ± 3 19.20
Weft ± 3 18.05
Finished
Warp ± 5 20
Weft ± 5 18.6
CRIMP
(%)
Greige
Warp 1.03
Weft 1.0413
Finished
Warp 1.0607
Weft 1.0827
G/M²
Greige
Warp 226.01
Weft 214.80
Finished
Warp 242.44
Weft 230.0
Measured Total 472.44
LENGTH OF WARP in
100 m of finished fabric
Finished 106.07
GREIGE FABRIC
LENGTH (for a finished
length of 100 m)
Finished 103.035
WEAVE DESIGN Fancy basket 5/4/3/2
REED
NO 186,6 ~ 190
ENDS/DENT 3 ends/dent
WIDTH (cm)
Reed 27 cm
Greige 26
Finished 25
NUMBER OF ENDS
Ends (base) 480
Selvage 24
Total Ends 504
Finishin
g
None
WEAVING MACHINE
SELECTION
Hand loom
COVER FACTOR 94.78%

10. Observation Warp density Weft density
ends/cm ends/inch pick/cm picks/inch
1 20 ends/cm
50.8 ends/inch 18 pick/cm 45.72 picks/inch
2 20 ends/cm
50.8 ends/inch 19 pick/cm 48.26 picks/inch
3 20 ends/cm
50.8 ends/inch 19 pick/cm 48.26 picks/inch
4 20 ends/cm
50.8 ends/inch 19 pick/cm 48.26 picks/inch
5 20 ends/cm
50.8 ends/inch 18 pick/cm 45.72 picks/inch
Average 20 ends/cm
50.8 ends/inch 18.6 pick/cm 47.24 picks/inch
(a) length of warp yarn before crimping
(b) length or width of the fabric
(a) length of weft yarn before crimping
(b) length or width of the fabric
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
1a 1b 2a 2b 3a 3b 4a 4b 5a 5b 1a 1b 2a 2b 3a 3b 4a 4b 5a 5b
1 26.4 25.1 26.4 25 26.5 25.1 26.5 25 26.5 25 27.1 25.1 26.9 25 27.2 24.9 27.2 25 27.1 25.1
2 26.7 25.1 26.4 25 26.5 25.1 26.4 25.1 26.6 25.1 27.9 25.1 27.1 25 27.5 25 27.3 24.9 27.2 24.9
3 26.6 25 26.6 25.1 26.8 25 26.7 25.1 26.5 25.1 26.9 25 27.5 25.1 27.1 25 26.9 25.2 26.8 24.9
4 26.9 25.2 26.6 25.1 26.6 25.1 26.5 25 26.6 25.1 26.9 25.2 27.5 25.1 26.9 25 26.9 25.2 26.8 25.1
5 26.5 25 26.5 25.2 26.6 25.1 26.6 25.1 26.6 25. 27 25 27.1 25.2 27.1 25.2 27 25.1 26.9 25.2
6 26.9 25.2 26.7 25 26.6 25 26.6 24.9 26.8 24.9 27 25.2 27 25 27 25 27.1 24.9 27 25
7 26.4 25.1 26.6 25 26.8 25 26.8 25.1 26.7 25 27.4 25.1 27 25 27.4 25 27.3 24.9 27.2 24.9
8 27.1 25 26.5 25.2 26.5 25.1 26.4 25 26.6 25.2 27.6 25 26.9 25.2 27.6 25.2 27.5 25.2 27.4 25.1
9 26.7 25 26.4 25.2 26.5 25.2 26.5 25.2 26.5 25.2 27.1 25 27.9 25.2 27.3 25.2 27 25. 26.9 25.
10 26.9 25 26.3 25 26.5 25 26.3 25 26.5 25 26.7 25 27.1 25 26.7 25 26.7 25 26.6 25
267.1 250.7 265.1 250.8 266.1 250.7 265.3 250.5 266 250.7 271.6 250.7 272 250.8 271.8 250.4 271.1 250.6 270.1 250.4

11. Calculations According to the Laboratory Analysis
Crimp;
Average uncrimped warp length= 265.9 cm
Average crimped warp length= 250.68 cm
Warp crimp= Error!= 6.07%
Average uncrimped weft length= 271.32 cm
Total crimped weft length= 250.58 cm
Weft crimp= Error!= 8.27%
Basis weight of finished fabric;
Error!+ Error!= 472.44 g/m2
*1 dm2 circular fabric sample measured 4.622 g, so 1 m2 fabric weigth is 462.2 g.
Error rate= Error!= 2.21%
Basis weight of gray fabric;
Gray fabric warp density= Error! = 19.20 ends/cm
Gray fabric weft density= Error! = 18.05 picks/cm
Error! + Error! = 440.81 g/m2
Cover factor;
cf = (n1 x d1)+(n2 x d2)-( n1 x d1 x n2 x d2)
= (20 x 0.0399) + (18.6 x 0.0399) – (20 x 0.399 x 18.6 x 0.0399)
Cfabric= 94.78 %

12. αe for warp;
TPM = αM √Nm
19.05 = αe x √Nm
19.05 = αe x √8.75
αe = 6.44
αe for weft;
TPM = αM √Nm
16.51 = αe x √Nm
16.51 = αe x √8.75
αe = 5.58
100 cm 750 turns
2.54 cm ?
X=19.05
100 cm 650 turns
2.54 cm ?
X=16.51