The slide is about Knitting, Jacquard Knitting, Objective of Jacquard Knitting, Classification of Jacquard Knitting. The slide contains Semi Automatic Jacquard Knitting components, formation of Knit, Tuck and Miss loop, Electrical Jacquard Knitting Machine Principle, Components, Electronic needle selection. Formation of loops, Multi-step Geometric Needle Selection and Pattern Wheels

1. Circular Jacquard Knitting
Machine
Submitted By:
Avishek Das Gupta
ID: 201818004
Subject: Fabric Manufacturing
Machinery & Maintenance
Department: TMDM
Level 4 Term 1
Submitted To:
Prof. Dr. Shaikh Md. Mominul Alam
Head, Department of TMDM

2. Knitting:
Knitting is the second most popular technique of fabric or garment
formation by inter-looping one or one set of yarns. Knitting is the
technique of fabric formation by inter-looping. The straight continuous
length of yarn is bent into loops and those loops are interloped for fabric
formation. The main element responsible for such loop formation and
subsequent inter-looping is the needle.
Jacquard Knitting:
Jacquard is a term originally from weaving. In a simple explanation it is
the process of combining 2 or more colors together by knitting one color
either to the front or to the back of the fabric so as to create a visual
pattern. So, the jacquard knitting machine has a different principle &
working method.

3. Objective of Jacquard Knitting:
In jacquard fabric different types of motif is made. For making a motif in
fabric, required more number of different wales in a repeat. For more
number of wales need of needle more cam track. For more number of
cam need higher length needle. But if the needle length is increased, the
strength of needle will be decreased. So, the needle will be damaged
during production. So, the normal "Knitting mechanism is not used in
jacquard knitting machine. Selector mechanism is used in jacquard
machine.

5. Classification of Jacquard Knitting
Circular jacquard knitting machine can be classified in two types :
• Mechanical jacquard
• Electrical jacquard
Classification based on needle selection: (Covered in this presentation)
• Semi Automatic Jacquard Knitting
• Electromagnetic Needle Selector
• Multi-step geometric needle selection
• Pattern wheels

6. Semi Automatic Jacquard Knitting
Components:
1. Main cylinder
2. Needle
3. Intermediate Jack
4. Selector Jack
5. Adjustable Stitch Cam
6. Fixed Raising Cam
7. Cam box
8. Peg Box
9. Pattern Jack

7. Main Components:
Jack Cam, Needle
Cam, Pin Cam, Sinker
Cam
Jack

8. Main Components:
Needle
Pin
Sinker

9. Cam Box:
2 tracks are present in one cam box
• Upper track for needle butt.
• Lower track fore Intermediate jack butt
There are 2 types height are present in lower track:
• Lower Height for making Tuck loop
• Upper Height for making Knit loop
There are no any system in upper track to rise the needle, but for lower, track
has a system to rise the intermediate jack. So, upward movement of needle
depends on movement at Intermediate jack. If the Intermediate jack is risen,
the needle will be automatically risen, because the needle and intermediate
jack one composed with one another. Again, There are no any system in lower
track to down the Intermediate jack, but for upper track has to down the
needle has a system to down the needle.

10. Formation of loops:
When The Machine Movement is Clockwise

11. Formation of loops:
Knit loop, Tuck loop and Miss loops are formed according to slots
conditions
 Knit loop: If both slots are empty (No selector pin in slot) the needle
will not face any problem to rise its highest position. So knit loop is
produced.
 Tuck loop: If right slot is filled by selector pin/pattern jack, when the
needle moves clock wise (Left side to right side)then the needle will
be disturbed to rise its highest or cleaning position. So the tuck loop is
created.
 Miss loop: If left slot is filled by pattern jack, the needle at starting will
be faced problem to rise. So, the miss loop is created.

12. Formation of loops:
Needle
Needle Butt
Engaged with one another
Intermediate Jack
Butt for A and B
Selector Jack
Main Butt
Cam Box
Slot
Cartridge

13. Formation of loops:

14. Formation of loops:
Knit Loop Tuck Loop Miss Loop
Intermediate
Jack
Risen by cam
Down by
Needle
Incomplete
Risen by cam Disengaged Disengaged
Needle
Risen by
Intermediate
Jack
Down by cam
Incomplete
Risen by
Intermediate
Jack
Will not
reach to the
clearing
position
Will not
Rise

15. Formation of loops:

16. Electromagnetic Needle Selector
Electrical Jacquard Knitting Machine :
A jacquard circular knitting machine is disclosed provided with a needle cylinder
driving mechanism capable of optionally and readily controlling the rotary motion of
the needle cylinder according to the pattern to be knitted. A motor interlocked
through gears or the like with the needle cylinder rotates according to a needle
cylinder rotating procedure stored previously in a magnetic memory medium.
Needle actuators operate according to a pattern forming procedure stored in
another magnetic memory medium as a signal is provided by a sensor for sensor
for detecting the rotary motion of the needle cylinder. Thus a jacquard circular-
knitted fabric having predetermined patterns can be knitted efficiently.

17. Components:
1. Electromagnetic Needle Selector (ENS) – (It is a permanent
magnet surrounded with coil)
2. Jack Cam Box and Jack cam
3. Spring Jack.
4. Special Cam Box For Electrical Circular Jacquard
5. Needle
6. Sinker
ENS

18. Main Components:
Electromagnetic Needle Selector
Spring Jack
Jack Cam Box
Needle

19. Formation of loops:
ENS (Electromagnetic needle selectors)
Sinker
Special cam box for
electrical circular
jacquard

20. Electronic needle selection

21. Working Principle
Needle position (when magnet
neutralized)
1. A magnet or selector is placed under the
needle and front of the control spring.
2. The needle stands on head of the jack
and the needle doesn’t have any raising
cam.
3. When no electricity passes through the
magnet it becomes neutralized. So ENS
can not hold control spring.
4. The control spring pushes the jack and
butt detached from the raising cam. The
needle keeps it position in the down.

22. Working Principle
Needle position (when magnet
excited)
1. Again when the magnet becomes
excited (electricity flow), ENS holds
down the spring.
2. The spring also holds the jack in
position.
3. Jack butt remains in the jack cam
track and it follows the raising cam.
So the needle lifts up.

23. Formation of loops
Knit Loop Formation:
1. To form knit loop, every jack cam box contains two raising cam side by side.
2. The left raising cam leads a needle to the clearing position with help of the
needle cam because both raising jack cam are came height of the yarn taking
height.
3. For the both raising cam there are two ENS one for each.
4. The spring jack constructed in the way that there is no interruption its butt
always follows the raising cam.
5. So when the magnet becomes excited (electricity passes) the raising cam
push the jack and jack push the needle so form the knit loop.
6. Again when the magnet becomes neutral the Jack butt remains in the jack
cam track and it follows the raising cam. So the needle lifts up.

24. Formation of loops
Tuck Loop Formation:
1. To form a tuck loop no electricity passes through the first ENS so it remains
magnet and attract the jack and jack become detached from the raising cam
and the needle keeps it position in the down. So no clearing action is
happened.
2. But when electricity passes through the second ENS which makes the second
ENS neutral and jack moves upward following the raising cam and so needle
also move upward.
3. In here needles raises only to the yarn taking height not in the clearing
position so the old loop tucked in the latch and take the new yarn. Following
the next knit loop a tuck loop is formed.

25. Formation of loops
Miss Loop Formation:
1. When miss loop is required no electricity passes through neither ENS nor the
ENS keeps the jack detached from the raising cam whole the time.
2. The needle remains in the bottom most position. So neither clearing nor the
yarn taking takes place. In this way miss loop is happened.

26. Multi-step Geometric Needle Selection
Multi-step geometric selection has been developed from the Brinton trick wheel of
1926, which first employed single butted depressible selectors beneath the cylinder
needles rather than in an intermediate drum. Figure illustrates a device, used on
Wildt Mellor Bromley machines of the RTR range, for either rib jacquard or rib loop
transfer selection on circular garment-length machines with revolving cam systems.
Each vertical column around the drum has a height of either 24 or 36 selection
positions, depending upon the model. This depth corresponds to the pattern width
repeat. The drums are either drilled with holes to receive push-in metal pegs or are
equipped with grooved tricks for the insertion of pattern jacks whose butts are
snipped off according to the pattern. The latter arrangement is generally preferred
as the jacks can be prepared in a less laborious operation whilst the machine is
knitting another design.

27. Multi-step geometric needle selection
Vertically – Cylinder needle
Horizontally – Dial needle
• Black portion – spring loaded lifting jack,
which has 3 butts [ A (upper edge), G(raising
butt) & Y ]
• E – Brinton Trick Wheel
• Z – Needle Butt
• F – Raising Cam
• B – Selector Presser
• X – Pattern Butt
• D – Pattern Bit
• C – Spring-loaded Plate

28. Working Principle
The tail of each cylinder needle is supported by the
upper edge (A) of a spring tailed lifting jack.
A selector presser (B) is placed in front of each jack
in a trick.
The presser has a complement of 24 or 36 pattern
butts corresponding to the width repeat; all except one
butt (X) are removed so that a chevron or echelon
pattern butt set-out is arranged around the needle
cylinder.
The tail of the lifting jack is sprung outwards, so that
its raising butt (G) is in the line with the raising cam
(F). [F may be either a clearing cam or a rib loop
transfer cam.]
If raising butt (G) follows the profile of cam (F), the
jack will lift its cylinder needle to either knit or transfer
its loop, depending on the cam position and shape.

29. Working Principle
The selection is indirect, requiring a decision for non-
movement of the needle.
When a pattern bit (D) is placed in the vertical row of the
drum directly facing the cylinder at the same height as the
pattern butt (X) of a needle jack presser, the spring-loaded
plate (C)at the height will be pivoted towards the cylinder
so that it presses against butt (X) as it passes by.
This causes the tail of the jack to be depressed into
cylinder so that its butt (G) goes behind the raising cam
(F) and the needle is not lifted. (creates a miss loop)
Needle butt (Z) is used to lower the needle and this, in
turn, lowers the jack ready for the selection at the next
cam system. The effect of the selection may be cancelled
(for example, in the rib border of a garment length) by
introducing a raising cam to lift all jacks by means of butts
(Y).

30. Pattern Wheels
 The pattern wheel is a cheap, simple device occupying little space, and is
unique in employing separate raising cams, in the form of pattern bits, to select
and move individual elements, to three different positions in their tricks.
 It is most popular in single-jersey machines, either as an inclined wheel for
needle or point selection, or as a horizontal wheel for plush sinker selection.
 The wheels, tricked to the same gauge as the revolving cylinder needles, are
driven continuously in the opposite direction, either by the needle butts or by
gearing from the cylinder.

31. Working Principle

32. Working Principle
 The wheels are of the gain or loss type
so they do not produce an exact number
of complete turns in one machine
revolution.
 The inclined pattern wheel is normally
placed at each feeder. It is set at an
angle of 20–40 degrees in place of the
solid raising cam so that, as it turns, it
lifts any element whose butt rests on a
pattern bit.
 With a three-position wheel (Fig. 11.9), a
needle entering an empty trick will
remain at miss height (3), a needle
supported by a low bit will be lifted to
tuck (2), and a needle supported by a
high bit will be lifted to clear (1).

33. Working Principle
o Needles left at miss height are lowered by a
wing cam (X).
o Another mechanism often used which is a
moveable raising cam, usually acting onto a
butt at a level lower than the pattern wheel.
o When the cam is raised into action, it
causes all needles to be lifted to knit and
thus cancels the selection for a number of
courses so that alternating bands of design
and plain single colour may be produced.
o Alternative methods of needle selection with
higher productivity, less restrictive pattern
areas, and quicker pattern-changing
facilities have replaced the pattern wheel as
the most popular method of pattern
selection

34. THANK YOU
REFERENCE
1. Book; KNITTING TECHNOLOGY, David J Spencer
2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sqCQTw3U-M
3. https://www.academia.edu/21736478/Thesis_on_Circular_Jacquard_knitting_
machine