raw material used in cosmetics preparation

1. Building blocks for formulation of a
shampoo, toothpaste, moisturizing
cream & vanishing cream .
Presented by
Rahul Bhardwaj
M.Pharm (2nd sem.)
Pharmaceutics
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2. Contents…
 Definition
 Shampoo
 Toothpaste
 Creams
 Vanishing creams
 Moisturizing creams
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3. cosmetics
According to D&C act…
Any article intended to be rubbed,
poured, sprinkled or sprayed on or
introduced into, or otherwise applied to
human body or any part thereof for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness or altering the appearance.
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4. Shampoos
 Defination : A shampoo is a preparation of surfactant
in a suitable form- liquid solid or powder- which when
used under the specified conditions will remove
surface grease, dirt & skin debris from the hair shaft &
scalp without adversely affecting the user.
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5. Requirements of
shampoo
 It should produce a good amount of form to
satisfy the psychological requirements of the
user.
 It should be easily removed on rinsing with
water.
 It should impart a pleasant fragrance to the
hair.
 It should not cause any side effects / irritation
to the skin or eye.
 It should effectively or completely remove
dust or soil.
 It should not make the hand rough.
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6. Types of Shampoo
Shampoos are of the following types:
 Powder shampoo
 Liquid shampoo
 Lotion shampoo
 Cream shampoo
 Specialized shampoo
 Conditioning shampoo
 Anti-dandruff shampoo
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7. Product Ingredients
 Surfactants are the main component of
shampoo. Mainly anionic surfactants are
used.
1. Primary surfactants: Provide detergency
and foam.
2. Secondary surfactants: Improve
detergency, foam & hair condition.
3. Other additives.
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8. Surfactants
 Anionic surfactants are mostly used(good
forming properties). The hydrophilic portion
carries a negative charge which result in
superior foaming & cleaning. eg: Sodium
dodecyl benzene sulfonate, Lauric acid, stearic
acid
 Non-ionic surfactants have good cleansing
properties but do not have sufficient foaming
power. eg: Sorbitol esters (TWEENS),
Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, Lauric
monoethanolamide
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9. Cont…
 Cationic surfactants are toxic & are hence
not used. However, they may be used in
low conc. in hair conditioners.
 Ampholytics, being expensive, are
generally not used. However, they are
mainly used as secondary surfactant &
good hair conditioners. eg: β – amino acid
derivatives, Asparagine derivatives
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10. Additives
 Conditioning agents: Lanolin, mineral oil, herbal
extracts, egg derivatives.
 Foam builders: Lauryl monoethanolamide,
sarcosinates
 Viscosity modifiers:
 Electrolytes: NaCl,
 Natural gums: Tragacanth, alginates
 Cellulose derivatives: Hydroxy ethyl cellulose, methyl
cellulose
 Opacifying agents: Propylene glycol, Mg, Ca & Zn
salts of stearic acid.
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11. Additives
 Clarifying agents:
 solubilizing agents: ethanol, isopropanol
 Non-ionic solubilizer: polyethoxylated alcohols &
esters.
 Perfumes: Herbal, fruity & floral fragrance.
 Preservatives: Methyl & propyl paraben,
formaldehyde (most effective).
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12. Role of ingredients…
 Surfactant: They are the compounds that
lower the surface tension b/w two liquids or
b/w a liquid and a solid. They may act as
detergents, wetting agent, foaming agent &
emulsifiers.
 Additives:
 Conditioning agents: They are intended to
improve manageability, feel & lusture of hair.
 Viscosity modifier: They are used to improve
the thickness of compounds.
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13. Cont…
 Preservatives: Many synthetic products are
vulnerable to microbial attack, if not preserved
efficiently. Bacterial growth in shampoo can
lead to breakdown of detergent i.e. resulting in
discoloration of product. The simple & most
effective antimicrobial agent is formaldehyde.
 Perfumes: There are two imp. aspects which
should be ascertained before final selection of
fragrance for shampoos.
1. Fragrance must be soluble in shampoo
2. It must be compatible with shampoo i.e. not
affect the viscosity & stability.
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14. Formulations…
 Liquid shampoo
1. Sodium lauryl sulphate 40.0%
2. Sodium chloride 2.0 - 4.0%
3. Water (to make) 100
4. Perfume, colour & preservatives q.s
 Cream shampoo
1. Sodium lauryl sulphate 40.0%
2. Cetyl alcohol 7.0%
3. Water (to make) 100
4. Perfume, colour & preservatives q.s
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15. Evaluation of Shampoos
 Performance characteristics
 Foam and foam stability
 Detergency and cleaning
action
 Effect of water hardness
 Surface Tension and wetting
 Surfactant content and
analysis
 Rinsing
 Conditioning action
 Softness
 Luster
 Lubricity
 Body, texture and set retention
 Irritation and toxicity
 Dandruff control
 Eye irritancy test
 Product characteristics
 Fragnance
 Colour
 Consistency
 Package
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16. Evaluation cont..
1. Foam and foam stability:
 The Ross-Miles foam column test is accepted. 200 ml
of surfactant solution is dropped into a glass column
containing 50ml of the same solution. The height of
the foam generated is measured immediately and
again after a specified time interval, and is considered
proportional to the volume.
2. Detergency and cleaning action:
 Cleansing power is evaluated by the method of
Barnet and Powers
 5gm sample of soiled human hair is placed at 35°c in
200 cc of water containing of 1 gm of shampoo.
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17. Evaluation cont..
 The flask is shaken 50 times a minute for 4
minutes. Then washed once again with sufficient
amount of water, then after filter the hair dried and
weighed.
 The amount of soil is removed under these
condition is calculated.
3. Rinsing:
 Skilled beauticians are employed to make
comparisons on the performance of several
shampoos
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18. Evaluation cont..
4. Conditioning Action:
 Conditioning action is a difficult property to assess.
This is because it is basically dependent on
subjective appraisal.
 No method has been published for measuring
conditioning action.
 The degree of conditioning given to hair is
ultimately judged by shampoo user who is making
the evaluation on the basis of past experience and
present expectations.
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19. Evaluation cont..
5. Viscosity:
 Viscosity of the liquid shampoo is determined using a
Brookefield viscometer
 100 mL of the shampoo is taken in a beaker and the
spindle is dipped in it for about 5 min and then the
reading is taken.
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20. Toothpaste
 A toothpaste or dentifrice is a substance used
with a toothbrush for the purpose of cleaning the
accessible surfaces of the teeth.
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21. Requirements of a toothpaste
 When used properly, with an efficient
toothbrush, it should clean the teeth
adequately, that is, remove food debris,
plaque and stains.
 It should leave the mouth with a fresh, clean
sensation.
 Its cost should be such as to encourage
regular and frequent use by all.
 It should be harmless, pleasant and
convenient to use.
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22. Ingredients used in
toothpastes
 Cleaning and polishing agents: Clearly the
main purpose of the cleaning and polishing
agent is to remove any adherent layer on the
teeth.
 Calcium carbonate: Calcium carbonate is
probably one of the most commonly used
dental cream abrasives. Precipitated calcium
carbonate (chalk) is available with a white or
off-white colour and both particle size and
crystalline form can be varied, depending upon
its conditions of manufacture.
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23. Cont…
 Sodium bicarbonate: It is a very mild abrasive,
usually used at a 5-30% level, in combination
with other abrasives such as silica or calcium
carbonate to achieve the required cleaning
action.
 Surfactants: Surfactants are used in the
toothpaste to aid in the penetration of the
surface film on the tooth by lowering the surface
tension. They also provide the secondary
benefits of providing foam to suspend and
remove the debris, and the subjective
perception of toothpaste performance.
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24. Cont…
 Sodium lauryl sulphate: Also known as
sodium dodecyl sulphate i.e. currently the most
widely used detergent in toothpaste because it
satisfies almost all the requirements. It is a
foaming & solubilizing agent that is derived
from coconut and palm oil. SLS emulsifies fats,
has a high affinity for protiens, and has mild
antibacterial activity
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25. Cont…
 Humectants: Humectants are used to prevent
the paste from drying out and hardening to an
unacceptable level. At the same time they give
shine and some plasticity to the paste. Generally
only two major humectants are considered for
use in toothpaste.
Some common humectants are:
 Glycerin: Glycerin is still the humectant used in
greatest bulk quantity in toothpaste. It is one of
the best humectants, producing a shiny, glossy
product. It is stable, non-toxic, available from
both synthetic and natural sources, and provides
a useful sweetening function to the paste.
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26. Cont…
 Sorbitol: Sorbitol syrup (approximately 70%) is
also extensively used throughout the industry
and is sometimes considered superior to
glycerin depending upon the formulation. It also
imparts sweetness, and is a stable humectant.
 Sweetening agents: These are important for
product acceptance, since the final product
must be neither too sweet nor too bitter. These
ingredients must always be considered in
partnership with the flavor because of their
combined impact.
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27. Cont…
 Sodium saccharin. This is the sweetening agent
in widest commercial use, and is generally used at
a level between 0.05% and 0.5% by weight.
 Flavours: Flavours are probably the most crucial
part of toothpaste because of consumer
preferences. They are also the most proprietary
part of the formulation. Exotic flavours, although
available, are generally not well liked under long-
term usage conditions, since one of the primary
consumer requirements of toothpaste is the
perception of freshness and cleanliness after
brushing conventionally, therefore, mint flavours
tend to predominate.
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28. Cont…
 Minor ingredients: This section is intended
to cover all additional ingredients added to the
paste to form either a functional or cosmetic
aspect.
 Titanium Dioxide: Titanium dioxide may be
added to give additional whiteness and
brilliance to the paste.
 Colours: Colours can be an integral part of the
aspect of any toothpaste that may influence
consumer preference and purchase intent.
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29. Cont…
A small amount of colour may be added to the
paste as a whole to give it a pastel shade.
Equally if a translucent gel had been formulated
then colour would be added to give it a different
visual appearance.
 pH regulators: Occasionally buffering
systems need to be added to the dental cream
to adjust the pH of the final finished product.
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30. Formulation of Toothpaste
Ingredients Formula %
(by weight)
Examples
Surfactant 1.0-2.0 Sodium lauryl sulphate
Humectant 10-30 Glycerin, Sorbitol
Gelling Agent 0.5-1.5 Hydroxy ethyl cellulose,
carboxy methyl cellulose
Sweetener 0.05-0.5 Sodium Saccharin
Flavour 1.0-3.0 Spearmint, Menthol,
Peppermint
Colour <1.0 Titanium Dioxide
Water to 100
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31. Creams
 Creams are defined as “a semisolid dosage
form containing one or more drug
substances dissolved or dispersed in a
suitable base.”
 Semisolid emulsions of either o/w or w/o
type.
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32. Ideal properties of Semi
solid dosage form
Physical properties
a) Smooth texture
b) Elegant in
appearance
c) Non dehydrating
d) Non gritty
e) Non greasy and non
staining
f) Non hygroscopic
Physiological
properties
a) Non irritating
b) Do not alter
membrane function
c) Miscible with skin
secretion
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33. Vanishing Creams
 These are also called foundation creams
because they disappears when rubbed into
skin.
Moisturizing creams
 These are the creams which restore water
(moisture) to the stratum corneum.
 Water contained in the cream is lost by
evaporation when the cream is applied to
the body.
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34. Commonly used ingredients …
 ANTIOXIDANT- Oxygen is highly reactive atom
that is capable of becoming of potentially
damaging molecules commonly called “free
radicals”.
 Free radicals are capable of attacking the healthy
cells of the body, causing them to loose their
structure and functions.
 To prevent this an anti oxidant are added. eg.-
Ascorbic acid, BHT(Butylated hydroxytoluene).
 BASE- It is one of the most important ingredient
used in the formulation of semisolid dosage form.
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35. Cont…
 Ointments and suppository base do not merely
acts as the carrier of the medicaments, but
they also control the extent of absorption of
medicaments incorporated with them. eg.
White petroleum, Lanolin, cholesterol.
 BUFFER- They are added in the preparation to
maintain the pH eg. Citrate buffer ,phosphate
buffer.
 CHELATING AGENTS- Chelating agents are
ingredients that bind with metal ions or metallic
compounds, preventing contamination or
discoloration.
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36. Role of ingredients…
 Chelating agents are used in creams and
lotions, body washes, shampoos,
conditioners, cosmetics and skin care
products. Chelating Agents improve the
efficacy of preservatives and antioxidants and
play a crucial role in the stability and efficacy
of personal skin care products. eg. Citric acid,
EDTA (Ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid).
 HUMECTANT- Humectants are essential
cosmetic ingredients which are hygroscopic in
nature and absorb moisture from the air.
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37. Cont…
 Humectants form hydrogen bonds with water
molecules and help to retain the natural
moisture of the skin. Basically, humectants are
molecules with one or more hydrophilic groups
attached to them.eg. Glycerin, propylene
glycol, PEG.
 EMULSIFIERS- Emulsifiers are used in
creams and lotions to mix water with oils.
Since water and oil do not mix but stay
separated, an additional agent (emulsifier) is
necessary to form a homogenous mixture
keeping water and oil together.
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38. Cont…
 There are 2 types of emulsifiers. Oil-in-water (o/w)
emulsifiers keep oil drops packed in water, while
water-in-oil (w/o) emulsifiers keep water drops
packed in oil. W/O emulsifiers are used for a fatty
feel (eg. night & sun protection creams). O/W
emulsifiers are used more in moisturizing products
(eg. body lotions, day creams). eg.
Monoglycerides, Sulfonates, Polyoxyethylene
 PERMEATION ENHANCER-Skin can acts as a
barrier with the introduction of various penetration
enhancers, penetration of the drug through the
skin can be improved. eg. Ethanol , oleic acid,
PEG
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39. Cont…
 PRESERVATIVE – Some bases , although,
resist microbial attack but because of their high
water content, it require an anti microbial
preservative.eg. Benzoic acid, phenyl ethyl
alcohol, Methyl hydroxy benzoate, Propyl
hydroxy benzoate
 GELLING AGENT- Gelling agent forms a gel
dissolves in a liquid phase as a colloid mixture
that forms a weakly cohesive internal structure.
eg. Cellulose, pectin, gelatin, tragacanth.
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40. Cont…
 FRAGRANCES- Fragrances are complex
combinations of natural or man-made
substances that are added to many consumer
products to give them a distinctive smell.
Fragrances are used in a wide variety of
products to impart a pleasant odor, mask the
inherent smell of some ingredients, and
enhance the experience of using the
product.eg. Lavender oil, rose oil, lemon oil.
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41. Formulation….
 Vanishing cream
 Stearic acid 17.0%
 Potassium hydroxide 0.7%
 Glycerine 5.0%
 Water (to make) 100
 Perfume & preservatives q.s
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42. Formulation
 Moisturizing cream
 Stearic acid 4.0 %
 Mineral oil 8.0 %
 Lanolin 1.0 %
 Glyceryl monostearate 3.0 %
 Isopropyl myristate 2.0 %
 Glycerine 4.0 %
 Propylene glycol 4.0 %
 Triethanolamine 0.2 %
 Water (to make) 100.0
 Perfume & preservative q.s
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43. Thank you
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