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What Is Biochar?




   Biochar is a stable form of carbon,
chemically equivalent to charcoal, that can
 be used as a soil amendment to increase
moisture, nutrient retention, and habitat for
  beneficial microorganisms, as well as
       sequestering carbon in soils.
Biochar can be produced
using several methods.

One method suitable for
small-scale agriculture is the
two-barrel nested retort.
Building a two-barrel nested retort is quite simple. It takes
two barrels, one larger and one smaller. We used 55- and 30-
                     gallon steel drums.
Be sure to purchase a steel lid for the 55 gal drum, as this
         becomes an important part of the retort.
The retort also
     requires a
      chimney.
Chimney pipe in 6-
or 8-inch diameter
   works well; it's
 available in most
  hardware stores.
     Avoid roof
 flashing, as it will
melt in the intense
        heat.
Adequate airflow from the bottom of the large barrel is
essential to a good burning process. To ensure this, air holes
             are required around the bottom edge.
An exhaust hole must be cut into the steel lid to
        accommodate the chimney.
We found it helpful to remove the bottom from a metal
 coffee can and fix it over the exhaust hole using steel
   brackets. This helps to stabilize the bottom of the
          chimney, which remains removable.
Our primary feedstock to date has been dead and downed
  hardwood branches, which are abundant on the ranch.
Hardwoods generally contain fewer tars and other chemicals
      that might not be desirable in soil amendments.
Secondarily, we are using some fibrous wastes from our
 horticulture projects, such as the shells of under-sized
                   birdhouse gourds.
Feedstocks for charring must also be dry. Green or wet
        materials will not work in this retort.
Choose a level
area in the open,
with no trees or
electrical lines
directly above.
Keep a good
distance between
the retort and
flammable
buildings, hay
bales, and
anything else that
could easily catch
fire. We took the
added precaution
of constructing a
brick-enclosed
sand pad.
Fill the smaller bucket with the feedstock. Leave space
          between the materials, and fill to the top.




Limbs larger than 4” in diameter do not char completely, so
twigs and small branches are best. Pieces between 6’'-18” in
length pack more easily into the retort, and make it easier to
           transfer the finished char afterwards.
Invert the larger barrel over the smaller barrel.
Reaching under the two barrels to press the smaller barrel
                     upwards…
…tip the retort on its side…
…and then invert it. The goal is to invert the barrels, leaving
 the rim of the smaller barrel pressed cleanly against the
      bottom of the large barrel with little or no gap.
Center the inner barrel within the outer barrel.
Fill the gap between the barrels with the same size of fuel
 wood that was used to fill the smaller barrel. Pack in as
much fuel as possible, stuffing very small twigs into gaps.
Pack the top of
the gap and the
charge barrel
with dry grass,
straw or similar
material. Avoid
using starter
fluids, diesel, or
other petroleum-
based fuels. Start
the fire using
matches or a
lighter. A small
hand-held
propane torch is
an easy way to
get the fire going
quickly.
Once the fire is successfully burning, place the lid on the
  outer barrel. Be certain to wear fire-proof gloves and eye
                          protection.

Then place the chimney on the lid, and secure it so it doesn’t
blow or fall over. We use a few rocks or concrete blocks.
If all is working properly, air will be drawn through the
 bottom air vents and a clean, very hot fire will begin to
                         develop.
This is a good time to wet or re-wet any grass or weeds
 that might be growing near the retort, to reduce fire
                        hazard.
As the fire nears
 the bottom of the
retort, it appears to
  burn even faster
and hotter. This is
 due to flammable
   gases that are
 cooked out of the
feedstock and leak
  out of the open
bottom of the inner
barrel. These gases
 provide the final
 fuel necessary to
ensure that a good
  biochar product
       results.
When you judge
 it safe, remove
the chimney and
    the lid. Be
    cautious of
  leftover coals
 and extinguish
them with water
 or let the retort
 sit a bit longer.
When safe, invert the retort
                           and remove the outer
                           barrel. There should be
                           very little ash remaining in
                           the outer barrel.




    The charge barrel,
however, will be full of
     finished biochar.
Biochar contains measurable but small amounts of plant nutrients.
 It should not be viewed as a fertilizer, but as a soil amendment -
 one with the potential to make added fertilizers more stable and
                             efficient.
Added directly to the soil, fresh biochar can act like a sponge and
     temporarily rob plants of nutrients. To prevent this from
 happening, we incorporate biochar into our compost first, where
it can absorb both water and nutrients. It is then spread on the soil
         on the same schedule as our compost applications.

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What Is Biochar?

  • 1. What Is Biochar? Biochar is a stable form of carbon, chemically equivalent to charcoal, that can be used as a soil amendment to increase moisture, nutrient retention, and habitat for beneficial microorganisms, as well as sequestering carbon in soils.
  • 2. Biochar can be produced using several methods. One method suitable for small-scale agriculture is the two-barrel nested retort.
  • 3. Building a two-barrel nested retort is quite simple. It takes two barrels, one larger and one smaller. We used 55- and 30- gallon steel drums.
  • 4. Be sure to purchase a steel lid for the 55 gal drum, as this becomes an important part of the retort.
  • 5. The retort also requires a chimney. Chimney pipe in 6- or 8-inch diameter works well; it's available in most hardware stores. Avoid roof flashing, as it will melt in the intense heat.
  • 6. Adequate airflow from the bottom of the large barrel is essential to a good burning process. To ensure this, air holes are required around the bottom edge.
  • 7. An exhaust hole must be cut into the steel lid to accommodate the chimney.
  • 8. We found it helpful to remove the bottom from a metal coffee can and fix it over the exhaust hole using steel brackets. This helps to stabilize the bottom of the chimney, which remains removable.
  • 9. Our primary feedstock to date has been dead and downed hardwood branches, which are abundant on the ranch. Hardwoods generally contain fewer tars and other chemicals that might not be desirable in soil amendments.
  • 10. Secondarily, we are using some fibrous wastes from our horticulture projects, such as the shells of under-sized birdhouse gourds.
  • 11. Feedstocks for charring must also be dry. Green or wet materials will not work in this retort.
  • 12. Choose a level area in the open, with no trees or electrical lines directly above. Keep a good distance between the retort and flammable buildings, hay bales, and anything else that could easily catch fire. We took the added precaution of constructing a brick-enclosed sand pad.
  • 13. Fill the smaller bucket with the feedstock. Leave space between the materials, and fill to the top. Limbs larger than 4” in diameter do not char completely, so twigs and small branches are best. Pieces between 6’'-18” in length pack more easily into the retort, and make it easier to transfer the finished char afterwards.
  • 14. Invert the larger barrel over the smaller barrel.
  • 15. Reaching under the two barrels to press the smaller barrel upwards…
  • 16. …tip the retort on its side…
  • 17. …and then invert it. The goal is to invert the barrels, leaving the rim of the smaller barrel pressed cleanly against the bottom of the large barrel with little or no gap.
  • 18. Center the inner barrel within the outer barrel.
  • 19. Fill the gap between the barrels with the same size of fuel wood that was used to fill the smaller barrel. Pack in as much fuel as possible, stuffing very small twigs into gaps.
  • 20. Pack the top of the gap and the charge barrel with dry grass, straw or similar material. Avoid using starter fluids, diesel, or other petroleum- based fuels. Start the fire using matches or a lighter. A small hand-held propane torch is an easy way to get the fire going quickly.
  • 21. Once the fire is successfully burning, place the lid on the outer barrel. Be certain to wear fire-proof gloves and eye protection. Then place the chimney on the lid, and secure it so it doesn’t blow or fall over. We use a few rocks or concrete blocks.
  • 22. If all is working properly, air will be drawn through the bottom air vents and a clean, very hot fire will begin to develop.
  • 23. This is a good time to wet or re-wet any grass or weeds that might be growing near the retort, to reduce fire hazard.
  • 24. As the fire nears the bottom of the retort, it appears to burn even faster and hotter. This is due to flammable gases that are cooked out of the feedstock and leak out of the open bottom of the inner barrel. These gases provide the final fuel necessary to ensure that a good biochar product results.
  • 25. When you judge it safe, remove the chimney and the lid. Be cautious of leftover coals and extinguish them with water or let the retort sit a bit longer.
  • 26. When safe, invert the retort and remove the outer barrel. There should be very little ash remaining in the outer barrel. The charge barrel, however, will be full of finished biochar.
  • 27. Biochar contains measurable but small amounts of plant nutrients. It should not be viewed as a fertilizer, but as a soil amendment - one with the potential to make added fertilizers more stable and efficient.
  • 28. Added directly to the soil, fresh biochar can act like a sponge and temporarily rob plants of nutrients. To prevent this from happening, we incorporate biochar into our compost first, where it can absorb both water and nutrients. It is then spread on the soil on the same schedule as our compost applications.